Sardinia directory, 1840

THli NfcW

coMPitrirr.NDiNi Ti!C

X j-utn Cape Trafalgar to Cape Spartiveido ;

WllH TUK

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The coasts of SPAIN, FRANCE, and ITALY,

From Tangier to Tripoli, inclusive :

By JOHN PURDY, H ydrographer.

Pages iv and 65. - The UvbooMight of CAtats, lighted from Uie tit of Nov«m1»er» 1840, is a fixed light, aeen to di« difttnoe of thm l«agiin. Tho to»«r is on the left tide of tba

Paget ! end CS^La Ciotat.-- The toww first lighted on the I«tof Koreinber, 1840, » a

new one, constructed on the head of the New Mule, at 1*20 yards to the so utli -eastward of the light on Fort Berouard. Both lights are fixedj and seen at an egnal distance i they cannot, tiierefore, bo mutaken tor diat of Comm.

To the announcement of these new lights it was added that, from the same date, a small fixed light would be exhibited on the fort of the Itk iff Mareou, in. tiio Engliih CbaaBel,

Another at Port Navalo, on the eastern side of the entrance of the Morbihao, Baj of Biscay.

The Lighthouse of the Bassin (PArcaehoHf mentioned in tho IHreetocy for liho Baj of Bbmjt

3, line 5, for East read West.

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On presenting to the Reader this Improved Edition of Sailing

Directions for the Steait and Meditebranean Sea, it may be proper to notice that it is an important portion of a work, the labonous result of much and long-continued inquiry, which first appeared in the

Not long anterior to that date, the nautical world bad been fayored with the excellent Sunreys of Captain Beaitfort, Captain Sn^th, &c.y whose names are identified with all ftiture knowledge of the subject These Surveys most happily developed vast tracts of CJoast^ whicb^ until

their appearance, were comparatively unknown ; and they rectified many otlier tracts which had been imperfectly surveyed. The pure science which distinguishes these works was, of course, combmed in our volume with the preceding descriptions of Tofmo and other eminent Surveyors, and enabled us to produce, nof, as we then observed^ a perfect work, but certainly one such, for the Mediterranean Sea, as had not before appeared, and of which ample, though illiberal, use has been made in the construction of similar publications.

Our thanks are justly due to the respected friends who have contri- buted to the circulation of the work, and to the improvement of the present edition. We trust that such favors will be continued toi Juture

The Second volume comprehends the Eattem Dmeion of the Medi- terranean Sea, and includes the Adriatic Sea or Cruif of Venice, the loman hke. Archipelago, and Lewmt, the Sea <^ MarrMra, and the Buinm or Bhek Sea.

Having given, in our late Directories for the Coasts of the Bay of Biscay and Portugal, the Pharonology or Description of Light- TOWERS and other Land-marks, we hereto subjom a continuation of the same, with Various Information acquired since the following part of the work was printed; commencing with Gadic, and proceeding thence easiwaid to the Euxijib and Lbvamtinb Sbas.

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This Additional Information, now constitutiug the first portioD of the work, is arranged as follows : -

LlOHT-TOWSM of Cadiz, Tnrifn, nnd Oihraltar, page i : MaltgA, CoiMda Q«t, Vtim^miA

Coasts of Fkance. - Cape Betra, FortTendre, LaNouvelle, Fort Brescon, Port of tnd

Mouut Agde, and Cette, page iii : Aigues ^^o^lcs, La Camargue, Port de liouc, Marseille, Planier, Cwma, La Ciotati PorqueroUe, Levant or Titas, Cape Lardier^ Oaroupe, and Antibet,

Coans of Itaet. - VOla Franca, Oenoa, Gulf of Spezia» Livomo or Leghorn, EXbti, Conka, * Civita Veccbia, River Tiber, and Cape Anzo, page V« Badino, Naj^lei^ and Sicily, vi: MaUa,

S.E. Coast of Italy, and Gulf of Venice, vii.

Ionian Islands aad Western Grkece. - Corfu, Paxu, and Santa Manra, page rii : Cepha- loBia, Zante, and Stropbadia, riii : Previia and Gulf of Arta, viii : Gulf of Patras, DeaeriptiOB b; Sir John Fraoklin, viii: Gulf of Lepanto, ix : Winds and Conreats, x: Modon, xi.

Candia. - Canea, Suda, nnd Cape Sidero, page x?.

Eastern Greece. - Hydra aud Spetzm, page xi : Port of Athens, xi.

AacuiPEUiGO. - Zea, Santorin, and Syra, page xii: General Rule in the Archipelago, xiii: Tinos and Nicaria, xiii : Island of %mi, xiii : Onlf of Symi, xiv : SotiA Nnova^ xt : Sdo, xvi : Gulf of Smyrna, Bay of Yourla, &c. xv? t Tenedoe and Coast in thoTidBi^i xrii; Onlf of

Saro.>, xvii: Mount Athos, xvii : Samutbraki, xviii.

- The Dauda NELLS, Entrance of, page xviii: Dardanells aud Bosphorus, Extension of the Shoals, and Sailing Directions, xviii to XX : Voyages of the Hon. Capt Grey from Naples to the '

Archipelago, Dardanells, and Bosphorus, xx : Northern Extremities of the Bosphorus, xxi.

Trade with Tlrkey. - New Quarantine Regulations, from Oefohcr, lH:3i), pag'c xxi.

The Black Sea. - lighthouses of Cape Kherson, Eskiforos or Zarkhan, Tendra Isle, and

SovTBCBM CoAiv of A«u MiMOK and Coast of Sntu.

Ka&auamia, XXV : Iskenderoon, xxv: Baj of OvontH^ xxvi: latakia or Ladikidi, xxvit: Begrroaly xxviii : Syn aad Egypt in general, xxTiii*

The Northern Coast of Africa.

PosiTiOKS according to the last Survey, xxix; Uabeeba or |labiba«^ &iC* xxx: Ba^ of Oran and Ligfatbonse, xxx: Capes Aguja and Femty xsxi : Arzcn, xxxis Bearings and Difltanms of

Points between Arzeu and ( ^]>e Matifou, xxxii : Capes Missigran, HagDM^ and Nakkoot Of

Tencz, xxxii : Zcrzahal or Zarzel, xxxiii : Has el Amuche, xxxiii.

Aloibb, xxxiv : Cape Matifon, xxxiv : Bearings and distances thence eastward, xxxiv : Btyeya or Bongia, xxxv : Capes Bougaroni and Faira, xxxv : Boaa, xxxtJ*

Toxtt and Tutcix.^mmi Cartbafft and Capa Bon, xsxvi : Tripoli, description and diree- tioas by th» HontCaptaina Dnadaa and Grey, xsxvi.

Alexandria, with the New Mnrki;, <.\c., xwix : The Voyago to and from Alexandria^ xxxtx : Steam Navigation to and in the Mediterranean Sea, xl.

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Description of the Light-towers and other Lanp*marks in the Mediterranean and Black Seas.

With which is included Information acquired since the two parts or volumes of the Directorjr were printed.

Cadiz. - Tue luwcr ur lighdiuuse of St. Sebastian, on Ihft weiit pmnt of Cadiz, in latitude 36** 31' 53", longitude 6° 8' 10" ; a modern round towfir, ividi tkiee parallel rows of four brilliant lights, which make a revolution once in a minute, and so that the intervals of total darkness are of two seconds only. The lights, when full, may be clearly seen^ ia fine weather, more tban six leagues off. (For a view of Cadiz and its enviroju, tee tA« DincUtfyJbr iS^in 4fiui Portng^,)

TARIFA, the sontliernmost point of Spain, described in page 2, latitude 36° 0' 50", longitude 5° 36' 1 0" W. : a tower with revolving light, which, bearing £. by S. [£. bjf N. true] leads clear of the shoals lyiug on the sanie parallel to the west.

EUROPA POINT, Gibraltar. - On the 26lh of April, 1838, the foundauou-slonc of a new lighthouse was laid on this point, with estramainary solemnity, in the pfresence of about 10,000 penona. The ioscnption en a p1ate» deponted beoeam ifae etOD^ is as

*' This foQodation-stone of a light^hoase, erected by order of the colonial ^vemment of her Majesty YlCToaiA, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland and their dependendes, In the first y««r

Mf her n-hih was laid on the 26th day of April, A.D. 1838, A.! . r)S9,^, with military and mai^ouic liuuors, by bis Excellency Major-General Sir Alexander Woodford, K.C.B. &c. governor and commander-in-chief of the town and garrison <^ Oibraltar, swiitril fey the Rev* W. E. T. Burrow, DJ). F.R.S. Proviocial Grand Bla tt r, for the protectioaof Ifeditsnanean

commerce, the saving of human life, and the honor ol (.he British name."

The Victoria totoer will stand ou u platform 38 feet square. The diameter of die column at the base will be 37 feet, and its height QO feet The building will be constructed

entirely of hewn stone, and crowMP'l 'vith a lantern ten feet high, with a veiy powerful light. It will thus form a very handsome as well as useful object.

Monition for Vessels approaching Gibraltar from the EastwabD} by Mr. Geo.

*' As, in dark or thick weadier it has been very common to mistake the nxft of Gibraltar for

the Sierra Bullones or Apes* Hill, Barhary, and La Carbonera for the rock, aud res.sels have thus readily become embayed, or run ashore in easterly or south-easterly winds on the shore of TfaoMira, sapposing it to be the entraaee of the Strait ; so, on the other hand, it has often hap- pened that Apes' Hill has been mistaken for the ri>ck, and the low banks to the southward of that ridge for the Strait, b^ which mistake vessels have been embayed in N.E. and East winds> «nd lost in fhe bay of Cents. All this has been proved fatally true by a great number of valu* able &hips lost, in the winter sessoOf in the bay to the oorthverd of Gihraltarand in that to the ^uthward of Centa.

*' As an instance of the utility of a light on Europa Point it has been made known that H.M.S.y. BeooM, In March 1835, on her passage from Malta to Gibraltar and England, was detained by contrary winds off Cape de Gata, for several days, as was also a fleet of forty sail of merchant- vessel*. On the 14tb, the weather moderaliug, with variable winds, she was enabled to prooeed to th« westward ; but the weather was so thick and hazy that the Spanish coast could scarcely be sepn, although occasionally not more than from 5 to 8 miles distant. O n the 1 Oih it clearing alitile, the town of Esiepona was seen, bearing N. 33" W. true, 10 miles distant, and the rock of Gibraltar S. 63'' W. £rv«, 16 miles, and a current was found Mttinff toward the Spanish shore at the rate of a mile and a quarter in the hour. At sun-set it became very luizy, and at 'Sf.m. a gale commenced from the eastward, which enabled the vessel to round i.uropa Point, and to anchor in Gibraltar South Road.

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'* While the Beaemt wm lying berc, a flue tbip of FinltDd, ooe of ^e ymtmU that had hem

detained off Cape d« Gata, ran ou shore iu the eastern bay, aud be- a me a total wreck. She had stood down io a greater offiog from Cape de Gata, and not having b«ea able to get observatioos for die two prevloos da^, haid a]io become ael hy the eurrent toward the Spaniih ooast, and on the easterly gale springlOgup, (uot having peon tt i rocU,) hnr? shaped a course iu urJer to pass mid-^banoel, and ran oo shore oa the Spaoiiib side of the aeutral ground of Gibraltar, by sup-

"Such cnsc! generally occur in the night; hut when the laud is in sight, the lieht will be made oat, Europe Poiot being generally clear wben the highest point of the rock is capped with doode.*

" Takita Lmht is a preventive against the like accidents occnrringto ships coming fiiom the westirard into the Strait, and instances of shipwreek in th*t quarter rarely happen.''t

See further upon this subject, page 15.

It has been remarked, and we believe with strict propriety, that the Tide- table, which has been heretofore given on the charts of the Strait of Gibraltar, has been copied from a very old docoment ; it is not to be depended on, and has often been UMind'to nidead; the tide and current being frequently blended. (See pages 9, tO,)

MALAGA. - A light tower on the mole-head of Mala<rf?, with salient revolving light, seen at the distatice of six leae:ues, as shown in page 17 hereafter. J

CAPE, de GATA or ut Gat, - Tins cape is distinguished by the Torre de la Testa and dber objects, described in page 22, which, as Oiere shown* mast be approadiad with caution, in oidor to an»id the effect of the variable cuiroils setting among the lodcs near

It appears by a letter from Captain Nicholas, of H.M.S. Belleisle, dated 13th of August, 1840, that a dangerous sunken rock, mentioned by the old pilot Micbelot, was seen at about a nule or a mile and a half from shore, S .^^'. by S. from the cape. Further particulars unknown.

Miehetot says, to the S.W. by S. from the white spots 00 Cape de Gat, at about a little mile distance, lies a ridge of rooks, with very lltde water over them, but yon may pam within land and the danger, ranging along tlie jioiut at discretion, at two or three cables' distance, or elite keep out at about four miles iu the ui£og, because some say there lies another danger about a league oat to the 8.W. by S. : there is likewise near tiie point of Cape de Oa^ a rode ailnuMt level with the water, which you most not oome near.*' See further Naut. Mag. Oct. 1840, p. 734.

COAST of MURCIA. - On approaching the cmst heiween Alicante and Cape St. Martin, the high iiili called La Cuchiuada de BfildaUf (the Cut or GosA of Roldan ) is, from its superior elevation, an excellent mark for veaads approaching, as shown in page 29.

VALENCIA. - A harbour light, erected on the top of a quadrangular wooden pyremidf

on the N.E. end of the mole, at 37 feet above the level of the sea, which may be seen, in clear weather, 12 miles off. The lantern is four feet in height, and the mirrors reflect the light of nine lamps, as shown in page 31. From this light the ciuster of islets called the &lumbrete9^ (surveyed by Captain Smyth,) bear £. by N. IN.E. by E.] 18 leagnes, and

TARRAGONA. - A harbour light on the mole, at some distance within its eytrcmity, and 30 feet above tlie level of the sea. The mole and lightrhouse were nearly luioed by a gale ia 1882, bnt we presume that they have been re-established. ( See page 35.)

At a cmUUm ia tkoee vUitk^ Tarragona^ it should be known that H.M. frii^te Trihm* was stranded in the haibonr, on tfaa 28th of November, 1889, in 3 feet of water. The ship had been

* But there are exceptions : - On advancing toward Gihraltar from the westward, at ^ a. m. 27tU August, 1820, Captain Livingston says, '* A thick iug came on ; observing that it seemed to hang low, went aloft: and though we could see nothing from deck, I saw Ae top of Gibraltar Rock, the UUs on the opposite side of the Bay, and Apes' Hill in Barbaiy, over the fog, and directed the vessel's course aceorfflngly. "When aloft I perceived a whitish coloured circle, about 20 yards m diairic tcT, one slile touching the vessel's larboard bow, and the other incUning upward at an angle of about 24 or 2,^ degrees. In the centre of the drde was the shadow itfmy own head, with a circle of prismatie cdonis sttnoundh«g it. At 4 p. as. moored in <£braltar Bay."

t Mr. Oftt. Jaknmt, maHer of die Jboesa, NmL Ut^, Sqpt. 1880.

t " It may be useful to inform captains of vessels connected with the Malaga tr,n!r, that the depth ol water has matoially decreased since the disccmtinuance of the dredging work, which, till lately, was pedbtned la that port by the gawnamA steam cagbe." - iVaalfOsI lirg. Nov. 1887.

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lying Bnagly moored from the 8th of that moDth. Oq the f28th, at about 7,;>. m* a gale spraog . up from the S.S.W., which shifted afterward to the S,W. and WAW. Topmasts were strack, aod every preparation made. At9j|t h. tiie flmall bower parted, and immediately afterward the sheet cable also. The sea had previously got up surprisingly, and washed the decks fore and aft. So soon as adrift, ooUuog could be done but to make nil on the ship aod choose the beet berth that could be found. She was aooordingly forced throogli the heavy rollers, whidi kepi constantly breaking over her till six o^clock the next morning, when she was found well up on the beaoh at the head of the harbour, just above the watering place, where there is usually so little water that the ships' boats bad never been able to get tihere. Tht» will impart an idea of the extraordinary quantity of water which must have been forced in by the gale. The ship ulti- mately, after a whole night of ' thumping,' lay in a bed of sand, which afforded the advantage of Mving the stores, Sm^NomLM^. FA, I840L

BARCELONA.^ - A towtr at 70 fklhoms widifn the ettremity of a new mole, and a

quarter of a mile to the southward of the old lighthouse, shows an improved light at 60 feet above the level of tlie sea. Its situation with regard to Monte Jui, represented beneath, is showu in page 36. The summit of Moaserrate, m a iioe with iiarcelona, bearing N.N.W.

In the middle of the entrance to the Port of Barcelona is a ihoa], w c il i ' j length broad, having only 6 to 9 feet of water, but in the passage on either side of it are from 15 to 24 feet. The harbour has been much improved by the construction of the new mole, as diown by the particQlar plan on the ciiart.

BALEARIC ISLES. - On these isles there do not appear to be any regular light- towers, excepting one on Majorca, with a fixed light upon a point of land two miles to the S.W. of the town of Palma, in the Bay of the same name. On the N.E. side of ifie same island a watch-tower marks each side of the entrance of the Bay ul Alcudia; the tower on the north is that of N. S. de la Victoria^ at a mile northward from Cape Minorca, and the

CAP£ B£ARN. - A fixed light on Mount Beam, about 875 yards to the S.£. of the entrance of Port Vendres, in latitude 4CP 30* 45", longitude f ^ V 33" £. The light is of the first class, elevated 722 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen at the dis- tance of seven leagues. (See page 58.)

PORT VENDRF,S. - A fixed harbour-light on the fort, upon the right side of the

PORT of NARBONNE. - CPoge 69.) Fixed harbour-light of La Noovelle, od the extremity of the western jetty, upon the left side of the entrance, lat. 43^ 1' 0'', loi^.

FOitT BRESCOU. - A fixed harbour-light on the S.E. bastion of the fort upon the islet of Brescou, at a league E.S.E. true from the mouth of the Herault; lat. 43° 15' 30\ long. 3^ SO' 7" B. Elevation 59 fbet ; seen at three leagues.

PORT of AODB. - ^Harbouf^light fixed, upon the extremity of the eastern jetty, on the

MOUNT AGDE. - A tower and light of the first class, on the Mont d'Agde, or of

- It was annonnoed, in January, 1884, that a Catalonian companv had established a steam-boat to run once a week between Barcelona and the towns of Palma and Port Blabon, in Miyorca and Minorai. The first vessel thus employed is, or was. El Bakar, having the m^ls, with two engines of SO horse fewer each, which entUes her to make the trip over in about 16 houn.

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3'^ 29' 37' E. The light is intermiUeDt, showing a flash once io a minute, and the iainter light does not disappear, in ordiitaiy wcAtiier, within the dnteaee of three leagues. It is 413 ^ept above the level of the sea, and flashes may be seen when nine leagues off.

CETTE. - fPfl^e* 59, 60.) A tower on the Fort St. Louis, at the extremity of the mole, of the same name, on the left of the entrance into the port ; lat. 43" 23' 46', long. 30 43' £. The light IB fMi 83 ftet aOwva the lerel of tha sea, and visible at three

At 809 yards farther to the westward, and one above the other, are two lantern lights, on a sea-mark near the Tnrt TlirheHcr/, seen at a league and a half, and which, in a Hne with t)mt on the mole, lead lu mid-ciiuuuel of the N.B. passa^ into the harbour. These lights hav e been established since the yeaf Wl$ but the directioiis for entering, as given in page 60, shouU! still be attended to.

AIGUES-MORTES. - fPage 60.) A tower on the mole N.W. of the Grau du Roi, at 5d8 feet from its extremity i lat. 43^ 32', long. 4° Q', with light varied by a brilliant flash once ia 4 minutes ; elevated 59 feet, and seen at three leagues.

LA CAMARGUE. - ^Ptfge 61.) A provisional tower on the left shore of the month of

the old Rhone, at two miles S.E. J S. true, from the old tower of St. Genest ; lat. 43° 20' 30", long. 4^ 40' 52' E.: superseded by anew tower near the same spot, showing a brilliant fixed light to the distance of six leagues. To be lighted from Nov. 1, 1840.

POUT de BOUC - Two fixed lights ; the first upon the head of the mole, on the lefl of the entrance, at 52 feet ; the other on the tower of the fort, to the right of the entianee>

at OB fcrt : both seen from the distance of three lei^ues. Sec page 62.

PORT of MARSEILLE. - rPa^c 63.) Two lights ; ihr fir^t a fixed light, at the foot of the tower of Fort St Jean, to the left of the enLrance oi tiie port ; lat. 43° 17' 45*, ]<Nig. 5^ 81' 48" E., at the he^ht of 90 feet. The second, an intermittent light, at 62 feet, on the point called the T&te de More, (or Moor's Head,) between the Cove de la Reserve A flash every three minutes, seen at three leagues. In a S.E. direction the lights are masked by the mound of the torn. (First lighted Jnly 15, 1837.)

The ISLET PfJVNIER, laUtude 43«» 11' 57', longitude 6° 14' E., - eight miles to the S.W. of the port of Marseille ; a tower of the first class, with intermittent light at 131 feet above the level of the sea. The flashes succeed each other every half minute, and are visible whok seven leagues off. The eclipses are not total within a distance of three leagues.

CASSIS, described in page 65. A new harbour>light to be established at this port, fhnn the lat of November, 1840.

LA CIOTAT. - Harbour light, /xec/, on the fort B^rouard, upon the east side of the entrance, in lat. 43° iC 56', long. 5^ 36' 50". Elevation 83 feet; seen at three leagues.

Lighted from the 1st of November, 1840. (Page 65.)

PORQL KROLLE. - On the south point of this isle a towcr^of the first class, 52 feet high light, situate between Cape d'Armc and Cape Roux, is intermittent, and shows a flash once in every four minutes. tSbort eclipses, wbi^jprecede and follow every flash, do not appear total -wwin the distance of duee leagnea. The steady light, whicb inienreiies between the

LEVANT, or Titan Light. - On the eastern extremity of the island, in latitude

246 feti above the level of the sea. Seen at 5 leagues off'. ( Page 68.)

tower of the first class, 66 feet high, with intermittent light at 427 feet above the level of the sea. The flashes, in fine w r itln i , may be '^ppti when 8 or 9 leagues off, and the eclipses

do not appear total within the distance of three leagues.

When at 6 or 7 leagues distant the a{)pearance of this light may be distiuguished from the intermittent light on Planter by its flauies having an inmval of one mmv/e, while dbe other has only half a minute, as noticed above.

It rarely happens that this light is seen by vc.<;$els advancing from the eastward before passing within sight of the Antibes light, which lies SO miles to the N.E., or by those from the westward without previously seeing the PorqueroUe or tiie Titan light, respectively at

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and 1 3 miles distant. The old tower of CaoMiet irtands on Cipe Tftillal^ «t time miles

S. 27** W. true, from the lighlliouse.

GMIOUPE near Amim.s. - (Page 71.) Since the l^t cf July, 18:^17, a fixed light, of the tirsl class, from a new tower on the peninsula of Giuuu[je, al a unit; and a half to the southward of the port of Antibes, and near the cha;)el uf Notre Dame de la 6mdef in lati* tode 48° 51'' N. and longifnrif^ 7" H' 6'' E. The light is elevated 8'J feet above the ground, and 332 feet above the level of the sea, and is visible, in fine weather, at the dis-

HAaBovB LiouT of AwTtBES* - (/^oge 71.) On the extremity of the mole» to tht

left f till entrance, a tower with intermittent ligbt, in latitude 43° 35' 10", longitude

7** 7' oii" E, One flash, of 4 to 5 seconds, appears every two rainutcs% preceded and fol- lowed by short eclipses. Elevatiorj, 49 feet ; range of li^lit, aeail)' 3^ leagues.

On approaching Antibes from the eastward, mariners will see Uie iixed light of Villa Franca, which stands on Point Mala, (as will be pcesently noticed,) and also the intermittent light at the entrance of the port of Antibes, at the same time as they see the fixed liglit nf La Garoupe : but the last meniiooed light alone will be seen by those approaching fiom the imilhward or soutb-wesiward, until they have rounded the peiiinimbu

VILLA FRANCA or Ville Francue, - (Page 74.) On Point Mala, upon the eastern side of the entrance to Villa Franca, an intermittent light, at 223 feet above the level of tlie sea, in latitude 43° 40', and longitude 7° 19' 30".* The flashes appear at intervals of half a mitiute, preceded and followed by short eclipses, and may be seen 80 miles off.

GENOA. - ( Page 80.) The Lighthouse of Genoa is an antient square white tower, in latitude 44^ 24' 18^, and longitude 8^ 53' 15" E. It stands on a rocky point, named San

Benigno, at about a cable's length to the west of tlie New or ^^'estern Mole, and by day exhibits signals to vessels approachinf^. The total lieight above the sea is 41() feet. The light is hxed; five large lamps with parabolic reflectors; and may, from its elevation, be seen alar

Harbour Licfin are also shown «t the extremity of each molcf

(PageSi.) A new fixed light, with the improved lenses, at 384 feel abofO the level of the sea, and seen, in clear weather, at the distance of «5 miles. (1838.)

LIVORNO or Leghorn. - A lighthouse, represented in page 108, upon the extremity of a chain of rocks without the mole, and half a mile to the S.W. from the western extremity

170 feet above the sea.

The Maloba tower, on the soutliem part of the bauk of the same name, (page 109,) is an RKeilent dmy maik on approaching the Roads of Le^^om, It is square, with an arch, way, and bears from the llgnthoose W.N.W. four miles.

The Isle Gorgona is another good mark for vessels bound to Leghorn, being elevated and having two towers upon it* fiom the lighthouse it bean W. 4 S. £^.& If'.] 181 miles.

ELBA. - ( Page 112.) Upon the western side of the entrance to Porto Ferraio, on the aorUi side of Elba, is a brilliant harbour light, which, from the elevation of the land, may

COliSICA^^ Page 87.) Upon the extremity of the mole of Bastia, on the right side

- Noti as given in the Nautical Mngasine, Feb. 183i), G° 21' 52".

-f- Quarandne Regulations. - The following u an extract of a letter received at Lloyd's irom tbehr

« Wc l eg tn nhjni!i the following official article ; -

" » The B< u il ui Ikalth of this city, in their sitting of the 3rd inst., has decreed that vessels pro- eeeding from Gibiahar are exempted from quarantine, provided they have not loaded any goods there } and if they had been imported from the emjure of Morocco, can testify, with regular certincates ofUie Sardiiuan Consul, of siidi goods having renuned in Ace drculsdon at Gibraltar during the space

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of the entrance, in latitude 42° 41' 48", longitude 9® 27' 7" £^ a harbour-light, fixed, at S% ftet aboM (he letel of the tea, and isible at thiee leagues off.

GIVITA VECCHIA, on the Roman territoiy, lat. 42^ 4' 40", long. n^45* (Pofff 116.) Lighthouse on the otHemitjr of the New Mole, with fixed light at 8f feet

above the sea i seen at 2^ leagues.

RIVER TIBER, tic, - (Page 117.) A revolving light in the Ciemenline tower, which is square, on the north side of the mouth of the Tiber, hi lat 41^ 45' 30", and long. IS** 11' 20" E. to mark the channel of FiuHucino. The light is successively shown and concealed for equal intervals, and maj be distiiM^y seen to an extent of about foor leagues.

tower, similar to diat of the Fiumicino, from which it is 28 miles distant. In the sector lietween these lights, and moderately clear weather, the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome, may be seen at a great distance off at sea ; and while it can be seen it is the best mark for ascertaining the situition of a vesad in ^ vidnity. The dome bearing £. by N., by eoaapass, leads diiectty to the mouth of the riter.

33ADINO. - (Page 1 18.) At about two leagues eastward from the extienu^ of Monte Circello, is the Bad! no tower, wiUi revolving light, at the entrance of a canal cut through the Pontine Marshes } it is 65 feet high above the sea, and seen at two leagues off. Exclu- sive of the tower, two lanterns mark the enttance.

NAPLES. - Ughdioose in form of a slender and lofty tower, on the angle of the mote, ^|ht; also a lower light on the mole-head, to thp S.W. These lights obviate the necessity of taking a pilot for the harbour, which may be entered with safety, but ii is to be observed

The following Remavlis on the jioH of Naples were made on visitin|^ this place, in the monlh oir Jannaiy, 1833, by Captain the Hon. F* W. Grtjf, of H.M. fngate Aelaim*

*' The anchorage in the Bay of Naples at this season, being very much exposed, it was an object of importaofie to get the ship into the mole ; and it may, perhaps, be useful to mention that the permisiioin for tnts purpose w obtained by the Consul, and that, on his applio^on to the Minister of Marine, every assistance is afforded by the dock-yard. A lump was sent to us early on the following morning, to convey our powder to a magazine at Posilipoi hawsers were laid ont in readiness, and the master of a corvette lent to take the ship in. We let go our anchor at the entrance, and hauled iu, mooring with a stream cable, for a bow-fast, and two bower cables of a Neapolitan frigate for quarter-fasts. It was necessary to make an application for permis* sion to use thete cables, which are much preferable to laying an anchor out for the larboard quarter-fast, as, from the number of cables and anchors about, it would be very difficult to lay it clear. The stern moorings are of the most consequence, as the heaviest breezes come from the S.B. and S.W., and having good scope of cable on the bower anchor, a ship is well seenred to the northward.

" Water we obtained from a tank vessel belonging to the dock-yard; and I cannot speak too highly of tlft readiness with which all oar requests were granted, and our wants supplied, by the intendant of the arsenal.

" The water at the eotranoe of the mole is veiy shoal, the deepest being 24 feet, close to the mole^end ; the bottom is soft mnd, and althoogfa we took die ground with onr heel in going in, we had no (liHSculty in liaiilii^g clear. We remained in the mole till the 2Gth of March. The weather during the time, upon the whole, was fine, with occasional gales of wind from the west* ward. The pravaiUng winds were westerly and soath-westerly, the latter generally accompanied

with rain.

Anchorage in the Bay,'^" On the 26th we hauled out of the mole, and on the 27th received Prince Charles on board, and ran over to Sorrento, retoming the same evening to omr anehorage off the town. In the Bay our anchorages were as follow.

Furst, in 12 fathoms, the Mole lighthouse, N.W. 4 N. and CasUe del Ovo (point) W.8.W. i W.; Second, in 11 Ihthoms, Btola lighthouse, K.W. ^ N.; and Pohit M Ovo S.W. by w. I W. ; Third, in 18 fstfaoms. Hole lighthouse North $ Point del Ovo W.8.W. i W.$ St. Elmo, N.W. i VV.

*f These are all good berths; the best, 1 think, ate wiOi Point del Ovo fVom W.S.W.^W*

to W.S.W., and the MoIp liphthonse from North to N.W., in 12 to 14 fathoms. YOtt should not bring Point del Ovo so tar to the westward as W. by S., as you would then run the risk of dropping yonrandior npon some wrecks which lie between the fi^lowing hearings, in from 18 to 25 fothoms: - Lighthouse W. i N. to N.W.| W. ; Point del Ovo W. by N. to W. by S. '* We remained at our anchorage till the 6th oi April ; ou the 2od we had a veiy heavy gale

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Nautical Magazine, Sept. 1834.

The coast on the eastero side of the Bay of Naples is distinguished by several towers, as the Tom Beano, Torre Greco, T»rede Jummdeia, Slc, aod ihtve are euaid-houses on the Capes Soneoto and Maaca, amid some of the finest soeneiy in the irorid.

ISLAND ov SICILY. - On Sicily are lighthouses at TVapani, Palermo^ Milazzo, the Faro and Port of Messina, Avgutta, Syracute^ and Girgenti ; but even at Palermo the light is very (ieFective, at noticed in pn^e 146, as well as those of the Faro Point aod Harbour of

Messina, as shown in pages la 2, 153.

The Culombura Lighl'tohi'er,vi\\\c\i distiuguibhea ilie wesiern side of the Port of Trapant, is noticed in pages 163 and 165. At Girgenti are two lighMowers, useful chiefly as day> * marks. (Pages 170, 1.) The lower light d Measioa, between the hij^ light and Fort

S. Salvador is described in page 156.

in January, 1839, while there then existed a vast column of boiling water, rising from 10 to 30 feet above the surface of the sea. By the close of January, 1832, the islet had sunk

some feet below the water, and it has since entirely disappeare'1, without, it !« believed, leaving even a shoal on the spot, although smoke from the sea iias since been observed in the vicinity of 60 and 80 faibbmaof water.

Empress Suoal, near Capb Passaro. - (Page 174.) On the i7th of June, 1837, the

brig EiiipTCSSy of Sunderland, fiom Catania to England, grounded on a shoal about 3 \ miles from the extremity of Current Island, which bore from the ship £. bv S. (by compass). The spot where the ship struck appears to be the shoalest part of the bank, whereon was 13 feet of water. Its extent is small ; and, from the vessel's having reached from the land two or three miles before she came to the ground, and being ultimately got off by being hove toward the shore^ it cannot be U)e continuation of a shoal from tiie main land. After remaining aground 17 hoursy the vessel was, by dlsehaiging part of the oaigo, (sulphur,) got iff without sustaining any material iojuiy.

MALTA - f Page 181.) At the entrance of the port of Valetta, a round tower, present- ing an improved and brilUwt light, which may be seen more than eight league oS. A new of the point is given on the new chart

The S.E. COAST of ITALY and GULF of VENICB.

The R.E. coast of Italy i*? deficient in light-houses'; but there is one on Cape R{::ufp, in latitude 38^ 56' } watch towers on Cape Nau, Taranto, and other points, and a harbour- light on the islet Andrea, near Gallipoli, on the eastern side or the Chilf of TkuanliK {yol,n.page9.)

GULF of VENICE. - On the shores of this Gulf there are few lights, but many day- marks, by which the points may be distinguished. Ba&LSXTA (laU 41«» 19^) hasasmaU

harbour-light, ;sLuwu m page 4,* and a telegraph.

There are Harbour Lights at Ancona^ in latitude 43^ 38', described in page 5 ; also at Sinigaf^ia, Fano, Pesaro, llcmini, Cesenatioo, Cervia, and Fort Coisini, near Ravenna.

The last serves as a day-signal, indicating the entrance of the river.

GULF of TRIESTE. - On ihc mole-head of Trieste stands the handsome round lower described in page 14. The cone of light, at 106 feet above the sea, and seen at the distance of four leagues, is eclipsed by a revolving shade twice in a ssinute.

three horizontal circles of light, at 1 16 feet above the sea^ and nay be seoififom the disUmoe

of seven Icuf^ues. (See page 11.)

There is a deficiency of Lights on the Eastern coasts of the Adriatic, but the isle Pomo, noticed in pa^es 6 and 23, stands like a beacon in the sea, and is alike useful, in the day- time» to vessels both on the east and west

- It is to be observed that all the references to pbuwa In th« Adriatic See, theGrscisa lalanda, and att the coasts to the eastward, ars to the Meeerfvehmwef this woik. _

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DURAZZO BAY (Page 21). On the Sdth of October, 1839, H. M. S. Taibot, in , coming out of this bay passed over a mud bank, which lies in the very centre of it, but fortuoaiety did not leceive the least iq|uiy, there being 16 feet of water o?er the aboal.

Lighthousea have been established by the Ionian Government on different points of these

At Corfu, on the rock Tigno^, at the entrance of the Nortii Channel, as noticed in page 32, and described in page 34: another on the old citadel of Corfu, page 34; and a floating light in the South channel off Point Alefkimo. A buoy now marks the shoal stretching from Cape Bianco, the South point of the island. (Page xxiii.)

On the N. ir. Cape of Pnxo is the LighUiousc described in the note 4, pai^e xxiii. : and on llie S.li. of that island is the 1-iglit at ilie entrance of tlie little port of Gnyu ; page xxiv.

At Santa Maura, on the mole-head of the Harbour, a round tower with lights as de^ Mribed in page xxiv.

Jt CepAaMe, a lofty round tower on ^e islet Guadiant, off the West side of the entrance

of the harbour; and a fnrbour-lic^ht on the Point Teodoro, near AlgOStoli) within on the eastern side, and leading into tlie llHrbonr. (Pa^ xxiv.)

Xante . - A low (quadrangular building on Point Krio-neri| (page 44) with improved fixed light, as shown in page xxiv. A small light on the mo1e<head, (page xxiv.,) and another on Cape Kierl» the South point of the Island.

Strophadia or ^an^^mi Isles. - An erection on the Convent isle, showing a fight to the

distance of 4ji le^es. Pages xxiv. and 47.

In a communication made by Capt. J. R. Dacres, dated 11. M. S. Edinburgh, August, 1835, this gentleman gives a more correct description of the Strophadia as follows ; - The southern point is low and apparently sandy ; the highest part is about 50 feet above the level of the sea. The extent of both isles, ftwa North to South, is about iive miles.

The Lightbonsn stands on the highest part, and nearly in the centre of the large islaqd, A little to the lun ihward of it is the convent, with a round tower and a flapstafTon it.

The northern island is considerably the lowest, and terminates m a low sandy bluff

FRBvi8A^(Pbge 38.) FroQi *- Observations on the Gulf of Arta," by Lieut. James

The entrance of the Gulf is narrow. Behvccn a bastion of the wall^ of Previsa and the opposite low point on which stands fort La Punta, it is only 700 yards across ; outside of this is a bar, composed of gravel, coarse sand, and sea- weed, not having more than 15 feet of water on it in the shoalest part of the channel. Thenortliern shore has an elevation of about 60 feet, is moderately level and coverfd with olive woods, while to the snr.tf.w ard tiie land would appear, from its barrenness, flatnes;*, and the swampy and saline nature of its soil, to have been gained from the sea.

The entrance lies about N.N.E. true; then turning abruptly round a low point, on

whicli is a small redoubt of earth, it continues in a southeasterly direction of greater width about four miles ; this may be termed the Bay of Previsa. Between Capes La Scara and Madonna, which are high and form a sort of second entrance tojhe gulf, the width decreaaes to one mile and a half, and then expands into a large basin, of which the southeri'j and eastern shores arc hig^) and bold ; the northern low and swampy, with large lakes, separated from the gulf only by narrow ribbons of sand, occasionally dipping below the surface^ and not rising to more than 18 to 94 inches above.

The town is abundantly supplied with water by springs, and possesses every requisite

for cmer<:ing from its miserable condition. The market is but indifferently supplied with vegetables and fruit, the vicinity being devoted to the culture of the olive, which is the chief produce of the country, though valonia, bullocks, fire-vW)od, aird occa:»ioi)ally corn, find a market at the Ionian Islands. The European consuls for Albania genemlly reside at Previsa. - Jotiraa/ tftbeR. Oeogreg^kal Soe*, Vol. iii., p. 77, with mop.

GULF of PATRA&.~(Pagei 4S, 49.) Pams was virited by H. M. S* JBointow, Captain

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the tops of the mountains after December bt'g:an, anil it occa>innally dcrceiidcd as low as the lesser hills behind PiXtas, but at that time seldom remaiaed in these places longer than a few days. When snow fell in any quantity on the hills they had nnall ndn at the anchorage, with Very raw cold weather; the thermometer being occasionally as low as HG* in the warmest part of the dajr. The N.E. winds prevailed also in this month, "and often blew very strong. Once only, on the dth of December, a gale from the&W. was felt attheandiorage, and thia came in a very violent gust, like a whirlwind, by which two water spouls were raised. Heavy lowering douds!, vivid lightning, and peals of thunder, preceded* and £ave socb timel/ warning of the diange, that any ship might havt shoflened sau.

The wefttiier was, in general, floe during the moothsof January and Fehniaiy, hut often

very cold, the thermometer falling occasionally as low as 30", at which time not only the moun- taius but the lesser hills were covered with snow. The N.K. winds were frequent, and often blew with violence along the Roumelian shore, while on the Patras side they came only as fresh breezes, to which double reefed topsail'^ and top-gallant sails might have been carried. In the month of March the weather was more unsettled and the winds were variable j after the middle of the month there were strong breeaes ftom the S.W. for three saooeiaive days.

The North side of the Gulf, opposite to Patras, is called by the Greeks the Bay of Krio-nera. Here the Turkish fleet formerly anchored, near the base of a high peaked mountain, PaleM Vouna ; and here, at three quarters of a mile from shore, the Bainoow found only 5 fathoms of water, and then anchored in 4^ at about half a mile from shore, with the extremity of a sandy spot that forms one point of the bay S.W. by W. ; the steep and bluff Cape of Palaeo Vouna, that forms the other point of the bay, E. ^ S. ; Castle of Patras, S.E. \ S. ; Cape Papas W.9.W. lu this situation there were only 3| fathoms at a hawser's length astern, or in-shore of the bhip ; and when they had veered to 72 fathoms on the be^ t bower, io consequence of a violent gale coming on from the oast, there were 3} fathoms on each side and astern, and four under tiie t bow, with space to veer to 50 fathoms more cable before they could reach the ship's draught of || water, 16 feet. The gale sent in a very heavy swell, which prevented the ship being cast to seaward, r and compelled her to remain at her anchors, tiie small bower having been also let go. The ] gusts rushed down the monntain like a hurricane the whole of the night, bringing with them ! great quantities of sand, and even gravel; and it was every moment feared that the shin must hare been driven from her anchor:, in which case her destroction would probably have followed. The wind became moderate in the morning, and they were fortunately enabled to cast the ship I to seaward and stand over to Patras, where it was fotind that the gale had buen equally violent 1 on that side of tiie gulf, that three vessds had been driven out to sea, and several heuses blown

Captiiin Franklin adds, -< Though the ground in Krio-Ncrc T^av i<5 ( xcellent for holding, I ^ should not at all recommend any ship anchoring there, as they \^uuld, moxt probably, be canghtin the strong N.E. winds. Nor is it adviseable, on this account, for ships to anchor * on any part of that coast between Messolong;! and the Castle of Roumeli." i

At this time the Morea Castle, n very stron? fort, was in good repair: there were 13 guns mounted on it, fronting the sea, or that could, at different angles, bear on a ship. The Boameli castle, very much out of repair, bad three guns facing the sea. The only apparent danger in the strait, between the castles and Vostitza, is a very dangerous spit extending from Point Drepano, ou the south shore, nearly opposite to Lepauto. This mast ba oarefidlj , avoided ; which may ba done hf keeping in roid-channrt or neaier to Lepanto.

Just to the eastward of Lepanto is a sandy spot and a line oflowsli ro which must not be ap ' preached too closely. In beating up or down, a ship should not stand nearer to this long low point than in 14 fathoms, as the water shoalens suddenly ; but a ship will be wdl dear of this shore by keeping mid-channel or by using the lead carefully when standing toward it.

Above Drepano the shore is bold all the way to Vostitza, and may be approached without fear. There are two or three bays in this part of the coait, formed by pn jectiug gravelly points, but the water in all of them is deep; and it is doubtful whether th^ oould, with safety, be used as an anchorage, except as stopping places in a S.W. gale.

GULF of LEPANTO. - Vostitza 1!>.) The Bay of Vostitza is open to the north-

ward, and formed by two projecting points about two miles apart. The water here is very deep $ the first sounding gained will be about 30 fathoms, at t n e-quarters of a mile fmni shore, and the best anchorage for a ship is in 17 fathom.-*, about iOO yards from the western shore and 000 yards from the custom-house on the beach at the head of the bay. A ship moored in this situation will ride in Siifety, as the ground is very tenacious mud, and the winds, though they blow most violently at times from the N.E. and S.W. on the outside, scarcely ever reach home, nor send in a swell sufficient to hurt a ship. S.W. winds produce the greatest swell, hence it is adviseable to anchor nearer to that side of the bay than in the centre of it. In 19 fathoms, the bearings were, the N.W. point of the bay N. 27» W. j East point of the same N. Sf29 E. ; the noud plane tree S. 1 1» E. Here the ship rode ont heavy N,E. and S,W. gales without

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tixpenuuciog iucouveiiieuce. In weighing anchor a por ehne «H nqnired. Latitude of the

The town is well supplied with excellent water, the principnl fountain being close to tlie plane tree. Fresh provisioD may be obtained. The town, having no fortreM, ii small and iitraggliug, built on the bin above the beach ; it contains three or ftnir good honset. The atore- houses of the merchants and the custom-house are on the beach ; ami merchant ships lie close to the wbarfa. I'his place ik the great depot for the shipment of carrauts in the Gulf of Lepanto, and thoie not grown in the vicinity are brought hither in small Greek boats. The Engli»h merchants arc almost the onl\ juir( hasers nf this fruit, thongli a small part Is sent to Trieste in Austrian and Greek veHcls. The quantity purchased by tbe £oglii>h merchants iu 1832 was sufficient to lend IS of 18 vcssds, averaging IdO tons, all of whidb were s«it to LoBiion* The ilnty on the export^ In die sauM year, ainovnted to £fiSfiOfk

Sir John Franklin has described the set of the Current, as well as the risr and fall of tbe water, iu the Gulf of Lcpanto, which, he says, depends on the direction and force of the winds, current mnnini^ most strongly when tbe wind blows down the Gulf. At Vostitza it was found that a strong S.W. wind brought in such a body of water as to cause a rise on the hcach of two or three feet, and that a gale from the N.E. caused a considerable falling of the water, but not ^nite e<|nal lo the rise produced in tbe contrary direction.

Tie Currents i» the Gulf of P<i/r<i«, particularly toward tbe head of it, near the town* are likewise governefl by the wind, and follow its direction j but, after a wind has blown with

violence for some hours, and the body of water it has brought down ihc Uulf of Lepanto has been thrown on the steep shores of tbe S.W. side of this gulf, a re action in the water generally takes place, and the current returns against the ^ir d to the N.E. Similar etllcts an- produced by a contiuuance of strong breezes from the N.\S . and S.W.; the water is cui rad rapialy at its commencement to the N.E., and forced into the Gulf of Lepanto till a re-action takes place, and then the current returns to the S.W. or westward, apainst the w ind. In calm weather it wa& remarked that the drain of the water at the ar.chorage before Patra.s w as more frequently to the N.E. than otherwise, thongb it has often been obwrved mnoiog to the S.W. and 8.E. The Greek boatmen say that, in moderate weather the current is, in genrral, ^fill nhont noon, and again from 7 to 8 p.m., which wa:i uccaMooally confirmed, but not so geueraiiy sm to luduoe tbe supposition that tbe current p:u-takce of the natnre of a tide, which its regularity of ceariof to run at those times would imply.

The boatmen likewise say that the current almost constantly runs to the westward from Point Bakari,f or downward along the shore in firoDt of Messolonghi aa far as tbe isle Oxia^ a distance of more than six leagues j «atid that tbe current takes a contrary direction, with almost equal uniformity, along the S.W. side of the gulf. They recommend that, in these seasons, ships in beating up the gulf should keep nearer to the S.W. shore after they have gotten well round and above the reef that extends from Cape Papas, the N.W. point of the gulf; and thai^ in beating oat of the gulf, they should work on the Messolonghi shore.

Between tbe months of April and September it was observed that, however strong the wind nay have Mown during the day, it almost constantly abated at snn-set, and that tha wind had

blown from the land durint; the night; on this aeeount the hnatnien and small vestds aloiOCt invariably leave Patras in tbe evening on going to Zante or any of the islands.

"During the month of October tbe winds were blowing almost constantly down tbe Gulf of Lepanto, and generally with much foree during tbe day, though they became moderate in the night. These N.E. winds mrne d nvii very strong in November, though we heard that the wiuds on tbe outside, which were blowing at the time from S.E. and i».VV'., being turned from these directions by the mouulaios that are near the gulf in the Morea. Contrary to the course in the preceding mouth, these winds did not abate dating the night, but appeared to blow with nearly tbe same force down the gulf, and along tbe north i>liure of the Gulf of Patras; though at the anchorage before Patras it was generally either a moderate breeze or calm during tba night, with occasional .sqtialls of short duration. While these winds r ritinned, no vessels could have beaten into the gulf: even tbe small trading-boats were (ietained at its entrance many days. The current was running so strong to windward the whole of this time at the anchorage before Patra<?, that the ship seldom rode head to wind even in very strong squalls. The meeting of the current and wind caused the whole of the north side of the gulf below the forts to be in a foam, and also a eoariderable swell at the anchorage before Patras. The reason of this strong current we snppose to be - that the wind in the offing had been blowing strong from S.W., and prevented the escape of the water from being carried down this gulf by the N.B. galet-t

* Not 22* 4' 40", as given In the < Nautical Magazine,' to which we OWe these eztmcta. t The point about 5 miles to the S.E. of Messolonghi.

i For the interior of the Gulf of Lepanto to the Bay of Corinth, see vol. u., pp. 49 - 51.

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, MODON. - (Pff^e 64.) Upon the mtftiti or cattle point of the enti-ance to Modon a li^^thouae is marked on the charts, but whether it has been lighted smoe the Jate heetilitiee

we have not been informedy and wppose that it has been discontinued.

CANDIA. The damnge caused by the stormy weather of Decettibcr, 1833, to the port of Can ea, described in the note, vol. ii. page xxiv. has been thoroughly remedied by order of Mdiemet Alt. It now has a fine mole, 1200 ieetlong, capable of admitting a great number of vessels, and of larger burthen than is generally supposed ; haviticr convenient accommo- dation for vessels of from 200 to 300 tons, in 4i to 5 fathoms of water, good ground. For such vessels it has therefore become an important harbour. The description in vol. ii, page 67, should be corrected accordingly. {CtqOmn Spiirgeon, Harkquin of Yarmwdh, IBSO.)

A tower on the mole-head, established in 1839, exhibits a light at 85 feet above the

sea, which ma\' be seen when 12 miles off. (See tlie plan of the port on the Nev? Chart of the Mediterranean Sea.) Of the ports of Candia that of Canea is the must frequented.

The scenery around the Uay of Caaea is very beautiful. In a S.£. direction is a row of mountains, and at the foot of these is the town. Large ships lie outside the harbour, and are much exposed to northerly winds.*

SUDA. - ^The harbour of StJOA, {page 68) has been recommended as one of the best

anchorages in Candia, and for refuting and obtaining supplies.

CAPE SID£liO« the N.E. extremity of Candia. - According to a iournal of the bark Union, in 1838. there appears to be a reef of rocks, between ttie Yannsary Isles and the western extremi^ of Cape Sidero, extending a quarter of a mile N.E. and S.W. ; some

of them above water. The original notice of them is singularly erroneous ; but so near as we can conjecture they lie with tiie north end of the larger Yaoissary N.W. ^ \V., 2| miles, and the western extremity of Cape Sidero S.B. by S. about one mile. The water much discoloured about a cable's length, in a N.E. direction.

EASTERN CREECE. - Hydra and Spetzta. - ^Prt^-e 75.) The channels and rocks about Hydra and Spetzia have, as yet, been imperfectly represented in the charts, from want of regular surv^: it appears that there are three to<»s, of 3, 12, and 18, feet of water, among the Strato-nesia, near Hydra, and two of SI and 23 feet between Trikera and Spetzia, not shown in the cbatis, but all of which are 80 -Steep-to that the lead, on

The currents hereabout are strong and uncertain. li.M.S. JRainbaWj in 1832, when nearly midway between the point of Castri and the island Hydron, in the course of half an hour, was driven eastward by the current, in a calm, close to Hydron, that she was pre- vented from being forced on shore only by the boats tuwuig her head round. The depth of water was 2!> nthoms, and 35 at less man a cable's length irom the shore.

PORT of ATHENS. - fIVtf 89.) Sir John Franklin, in H.M.S. Kainbmtf, anchored

in the Piraeus for one night, in the summer of 1832 ; and he describes the entrance to this place, as known by a pile of stones on the south point; you may h;iu! round this at three cables' dir^taoce, into the outer harbour, where liiere is anchorage in tine weaiiier; but it is exposed to west winds, and the ground is said to be foul. A thip would have but little room to cast, even in mid-channel, if the wind set in strong. After the point above mentioned, on which the pile of stone stands, and two other points have been rounded, the houses of the Pirwus open to view, as well as the collectioii of stones, or remains of pillars, on which the figures ot lions formeriy stood, and between which a ship must pass, in order to enter the Pirffius. Before yon reach these pillars, you will see a fieap of stones, about 4 feet high, near the starboard shore, which roust be left on the right iriand on going in. The stones stand about 130 yards to the west of the southern pillar, and may be approached to the distance of SO yaids.

" The course must be nicely shaped from these stones, .so as to steer exactly between the pillars of the lions, which lie nearly north and south from each other, and are only 35 ^thorns apart. This breadth is reduced to 30 fathoms, or ISO feet, for a ship, in conse- quence of there being about three fathoms f)roj(>c tion of the base of iJie rock from eadi pillar, over which there is not more than 15 leet of water.

*' UaTiog passed through Uiis channel, the Piraeus opens into a nearly circular basin, in

* A beautiful view of the port, with the peaked mountains to the southward, is given in the

Nautical Magazine of October, 1838.

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many parts of which there is sufficient water for any ship to anchor. One of our 74 gvo

ships has anchored in it. We anchored about 250 yards within the Narrows, and imme- diately opposite the centre of it, in 8^ fathoms ; but the best berth is about three cables* length to the of oar anchorage, nearer to the bill on the S.E. ride than the middle of

the port, where there is 7 or 8 fathoms of water. There you would have room to veer. If

necessary, to any extent of cable, and also to cast the ship with the land breeze, if you should ihmk it proper to go out under sail. But this mode is seldom recommended to be taken, on account of the probability of the wind proving variaUe before you have passed the pillars of the lions and beyond the heap of stones to the westward of tbem. It is more adviseable to wait for a calm, eiUier to warp or tow out, as we did.

" Our soundings in going in, through the outer harbour, were 15i, 16, 15T. 14 J, 14|, the NarrowSf and within the pillars of the lions, sufficient water was found, as far as the middle of the basin, and on the S.£. shore, for any ship. The water is even deep at the distance of 5 or 6 fathoms on dther aide of the walls that connect the pillars of the lions with die shore.

It is shallow near the town and on the north side of the port* The Piraeus may be

considered an excellent harbour to refit a ship in : all the dangers of entering seem to be apparent, and the only cause for anxiety is its narrow entrance. Once within the walls, no iea can reach, that would either hart the ship or stop the operations. The bmirings from the Rainbow's anchorage were, the North lion rock N. GT" ^V. South Hon rock S. 72° W.; Southern extremity of Salamis, N. 85*^ E. ; Anter Rock or Themistocles' tomb, S. 85«* W. ; Acropolis, of Athens, N. 80° £.; highest part of Mount Hymettus, S. Bi° E."

Ihe aitnation of a Lighthouse, as marked on the charts, is on the starboard or south side, rather more than a cable's length without the heads of the antient piers, or pedestals of the lious. This is expected to be restored, and lighted on the improved principle, so soon as the government has sense and spirit to dfect it.

ZEA, Post ov. - iPage 90.) It appears that this port, on the N.W. side of the island,

allows a light, of which we possess no particular description; but there are icaaona Ibr expecting that, at a future period, it will be improved.

SANTOIIIN, kc.^{Pnge 94.) It has been staled in the public paper*?, tliat. on the 1st of April, 1637, an earthquake had made sad ravages in four of the Greek Inlands, - Hydra, Spetsia, Poros, and Santorin. The shocks were repeated at intmals during a wedc. The little town of Santorin was swallowed np by the sea, and aU its inliabitants perished.

The progressive rise of a sunken rock, in the volcanic bay of Santorin, seems to indicate the base of a new islet, and the soundings between Santorin and Tfierasia have so far dimi- nislied that, from a depth equal to that of the surrounding sea, tliey have been reduced to 15 or 20 Ikthoms, and since to 4 and B only.

In 1830 the depths were taken by M. M. Boiy and Viriet, in order to determine the form

and extent of the mass of rock, which, in less than a year had been elevated half a fathom. It wn? found to extend 874 yards from east to west, and 54G from north to south. The sub-iHuiuie surface augmented to the north and to tlie west, from 4 to 39 fathoms, while to the east and south the increase amounted to 45. B^ond this limit the sounduigs indicj^d^

in all directions, a very great depth.

Admiral Lalande, twice at Santorin since !830, ascertained that the rock continued to increase, in September, 1835, the date of his last visit, the depth of water amounted to only two fathoms, so that a sunken reef now exists which is dangerous for brigs to approach. If the rock continues to rise at the same rate, it may be calculated that, in a few years, it will form an islet. Since the eruptions of 1707 and 1713, which produced the Kaimeni, the volcano appears to be extinct ; but the rise of u portion of the surface seems to demonstrate continual effort to make an eruption during the past 5d years $ and that whatever the resistance shall not be strong enough to dkr a sufficient obstade, the volcano may again resume its activity.

SYRA. - (Pfligc 106.) On tlie north side of Gadaronisi, eastward of Syra, is a small tower, with a fixed light, very useful to vessels passing between Tino and Myconi, toward the Strait <tfScio.

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- ARCHIPELAGO, in oekeral. - Be it observed, as a general rale in the Archipelago, tiiat It is always safe to anchor undar llie lee of an Island or any land widi northerly wima,

as they never shift suddenly to the southward, but gradually r^ie away and allow time for a vessel to get up her anchor. But it is never safe to anchor under the lee of an island or any land with southerlt/ toindSf because they generally shift to the nordiward in a heavy squall.

TINOS and NICARTA. - (Vol. ii. pages 110 and 118.) Tlie remarks of Mr. Wood and Captain Stewart, on the gusts from Tinos, page 1 10, were verified by Sir Jolin Franklin, in 1832. On the passage between Tinos and Myconi, soundings were gained, in 44 and 46 ikthoms, about three-quartcrs of a mile from a craggy point of Tinos, near the eastern outlet of ifie channel. Just as ihr Wiinhow had escaped frono the channel, there was a heavy squall from the high land of Tinos, though calins and light airs bad prevailed for several honrs before. The captain, therefore, olnerred Uiat, " We can from experience join in the caution of eiUier not canrytng loity sul when near its shore, or bdng always ready to take it in at an instant.

Tiie ship experienced a strong southerly current and swell in crossing over to the east- ward, which carried her much nearer to the shores of Nicaria than the coarse steered led her commander to expeet. Having passed the N.W. end of that island the wind fell entirely, when the ship was seven or eight miles from the shore. She was driving toward it, undf^r the influence of the swell and current, when the breeze came from the N.W. which enabled her to make sail to the N.E. - ^It therefore seems adviseable at all times to give Nicaria a berth of several leagues."

ISLAND and GULF of SYIVIT. - (Page 113.) The island and Gulf of Symi have, until recently, been very erroneously described ; but a * Sketch' of both, by Jas. Brooke, ]&q. given in the Journal of the R. Geographical Society, of 1838, hat been essentially useful in correcting such misrepresentation.

The Island lies about 18 miles to the N.W. of the northern point of Rhodes, and directly in the track of vessels bound alohg the coast: At its S.W. angle is the Harbour of Paneri-miolU t a deep bay encloses ^ montii of the port, which is nanow and fotmed by natural piers, facing the N.W.

Symi, the only town on the island, is a thriving place, situate on an acclivity above the Scala or landing place in the bottom of the bay at the N.E. (not S. W.J angle of the island, and lacing the Gulf of Symi, which from the centre of die bay bears E.N.E. The harbour IS long and narrow, with deep water, and vessels lie close in, widi a fr»t to the shore.

There is, also, a harbour, called Nimboriop to the northward cf the Scale, and divided

from it by a rocky ridge.

" Symi is a high rocky and barren island of grey limestone, rising about 1000 feet above the sea, its general outline irregular, and its coasts bold and steep. Deep indenta- fiODS mark both the northern and southern extiemilies of the island. The soil is extremely

unproductive, but the inhabitants cultivate every available patch of ground between the rocks with great assiduity. Commerce and enterprise have rendered this unpromising spot a thriving mart. It is a depdt fbr sponge and wood. The former article is found in the neighbouring seas, and employs the male population -luring the summer to procure it. France IS the great outlet for the coarser, and England for the finer, kind of this article, but some of it is carried direct to its destination. Greek boats come from Rhodes, Greece, Smyrna, &c., to convey the sponge previous to its shipment in European vessels. This intermediate carrying trade is useful and lucrative to the boatmen of Symi in particular, and generally to those of the whole coast and islands. Tbe second expott, wood, is collected in the Gnlf of Symi, and along the coast to the eastward toward M armonce and Makry, and exported from the island even as far as Alexandria, whence ships come for their cargoes. Tlie possession of three harliours affords Symi these resources, and it is pleasing to observe the active use they make ot these natural advantages.'' The inland is included in the Pashalik of Rhodes: its population about 7000 persons, who are slightly

Off the southern extremity of Symi is the isle Khl^iUrs, rt picturesque and fertile spot, about a mile or more in extent. On its S.E. side is a detached cluster of rocks and an islet near them. To the westward is likewise an islet, with a nairow but deep passage between it and the larger isles. A passage of a mile or more divides Kiskilies from Symi ; it is deep and clear from danger, but the wind is not to be trusted, on account of the high

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In order to make the tvesiern hat ijour^ pAiit.Ki->tioTiSt when coming from Ihe south- wud» after roundiog Kiskilies, it will easily be dist^rned fioin its depth, and the right shore may be kept on board until the harbour's month opens. The beat leading marks into the port, however* are the four islets which extend outward from the westernmost point of Symi. From the outer one of these islets cooiptit eoaise £. by S . will conduct to the harbour's mouth. The Iicadland on the left haiid» ongoing in, which forms the western extremity of the bay, is bold and projecting, but a rock or shoal is reported (o Hp off it ; and it will, therefore, be adviseable to give it a berth on coming from the northward and

The harbour's mooth is about €00 yards wide, and deep within a short distance of

either shore. The soundintrs jun within the entrance are 6 fathoms, then 5,4, and 3. The harbour has 3 and ^3 fathoms all over it ; - is oval in shape, and secure from all winds, but the holding ground is not very good. Its breadth is about half a mile, and it forms a convenient shelter for small vessels. At the bottom of the bay is tlie monasleiy of FSaneri- miotis, inhabited by a few Greek monki, who are very civil and obliL'inc : but wood, wateTf and provisions, in general, must be brought from the town ot ^ymi m boats, as the Kaloyeriy or monks, am the only iohabitants, and the road to the town is ever steep and ragged mountains.

In order to make the harbour of SvMr, on the N.E. of the island, upon coming from the northward, round the headland, with a smail islet off it, and steer S.W. i S. (by compass) for the anchorage. On approaching from the southward round the Wind mill bill, which forms the south eastern point of the bay, and keeping the southern shore on board, steer directly for the Scala. On coming from the southward, however, the town of Symi will be seen on the hill at the head of a deep bight, before rounding Windmill hill, hut this bight must not be mistaken for the harbour. Here Is a castle, with remains of Cyclopean walls, and on the Windmill hill is a circular Hellenic building*

Every thing here bespeaks commereial vigour and prosperity. Provisions of various descriptions can be obtained ; even rum and poiatoos. The po[uilation of this place may amount to 1000 persons, among whom are foreigners, who live here as agents and mer- lihants from vanous sea-ports to purchase sponge, and these willi Oreek skippers and pilots form a miscellaneous race.*

GULF of SYMI. - The existing charts, in general, do not give the faintest resemblance of the coast forming the Gulf of Symi; but they will he rectified by the recent surveys. There are two headlands where the charts exhibit Cape Volpo ; one stretches to the south- ward and the o^er approaches the island Symi. From the latter of these points the coast forms a capacious bay, before reaching the larger gulf. Two other headlands, nearly on the same meridian as the former, lie between the above-mentioned bay and the Gulf of Symi. Off th^ southernmost of these is a dangerous patch of rocks, barely above water. The bearing of the north point of Symi from the shoal is W. by N. : the nearest headland toward the Hidf of Symi N.E. : the east point of Kiskilies S.S.W. Distance from the shore from h ilt tn three quarters of a mile.

Rounding the two headlands, already mentioned, the gulf is open. Five islands lie on the right or southern shore ; the first three small, the last two much larger. The larger islands are so shut in with the main as apparently to form a separate bay. Within these islands the main land is bold and indented. Passing a deep bight, opposite the fourth island, is a bold and precipitous cliff. The scenery here is grand and imposing. There are patdies of cultivation on the larger isles; an islet lies between the fifth island and the tnain. At the termination of the cliff a large bay opens, aflTording a most nttrnrtive view. On the farther shore of this bay are the ruins of a city and castle, crowning the summit of a hill. The northern shore of the gulf is barren, red, not so deeply indented, and forms ftom its colour a strong contrast with the opposite coast. The narrowest part of the gulf is nearly abreast of the fifth island, perhaps about two miles, and its depth may be roughly estimated from 12 to 14 miles.

GULF of^OS. - The remarks on tlie imperfect representation of the Gulf of Symi apply equally to the .Gulf of Xm. From some " Note$** by lAtut. Smmant Brock, R.N. given in vd. ix. of the Journal of the R. Geog. Society, we take the following extract

Mr. Brooke visited Symi in his yacht during the spring of liie year 1837.

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" The Gulf occupies an extent of nearly sixty miles from east and west, and is very deep, no bottom in the middle of it with 50u fathoms of line, and even in the vicinity of the shore <;eldom less than from 50 to 70 fathoms. No chart extant gives an idea of its shape or extent, and the isthmus ^between the two Gulfs] has been, hitherto, laid down apoa- lently by guess. lb the sammer months the upper part of the gulf is unhealthy, ana is abandoned by the inhabitants in order to escape the malaria.

" The description of the isthmus given by Herodotus is true to this day : it is about half a mile broad : a natural ravine, whicli extends from the Gulf of Symi, might, with a liule exertion, and by diggmg through a hill of inconsiderable height, convert the promontory into an island."

"The city of Budrun, the Boodroom of the charts, on the Notth side of the golf, has passed through many hands, and several styles of architecture may be seen. The walls, which are olainly traced, and in some places perfect, arc principally Cyclopean, repaired at different periods with HelleniG masonry," kc

Again, - " The gulf is of a very peooUar shape, taking that of a canal toward tbebotlom,

bounded on the North side by precipitous mountains, falling iu a series of cliffs to tlie water's edge, and on the South side by a constant succession of broken hills and deep ravines, with small patches of ground capable of cultivation ; - in some places well watered, and covered by most luxuriant vegetation. The rivers which water these small plains find an outlet in low marshy <rround in the harbours, but, owing to the flat nature of the ground, are salt at some distance from the sea, and can only with great difficulty be made use of for watering, and then only by carrying breakeia op the valleys. There are no iofaabitants near the ooaat."-^. R. G. S. vol. viii., 438.

SCALA NUOVA. - (Vol. il page 193.) The following is the description, &c. by Sir

John Franklin, in 1832.*

The Bay of Scala Nuova is formed by an indentation of the coast about a mile in depth. As the island Koosh Adassi is separated from the main by a very narrow channel, which is shut in at the anchorage, that island and a remarkably white cliff to tiie N.B. may be considered as the projecting points of the bay. These points are nearly two miles apart, but in consequence of a very dangerous spit stretching out three-quarters of a mtle to the west from the white cliff, which must not be approached nearer than to 8 fitthoms of water, the navigable channel is reduced to a space of little more than one mile and a quarter, the deepest water being near the island. We first struck «ounding in 20 fathoms, when at the estimated distance of a mile and a half from the largest mmaret in the Turkish quarter of the town, and speedily shoaled to 18, 16, and 13, fathoms; the anchor was dropped in 13| fathoms; but, after veering to 46 fathoms, and swinging to the wind from S.W,, the ship's Stern, by trailing toward the spit, was in 10 fathoms. The bearings then taken were : - the centre of the castle on Koosh Adassi S. 65^ W. ; extremes of the island from S. 58^ W. to S. 70*> W. ; the loftiest minaret in the Turkish or Lower Town, S. 4° E. ; the white cliff, above-mentioned , N.50°E. ; point of Ephesus Bay, N. 17°F-; entrance to the Ephesus River, N. 12^ E. ; Port liypsili, N. 47i° W. ; entrance to Port Vathi, S. 81*» W.

The best bertlis, which are in 13 and 14 fathoms, and nearer to the island, were occupied by mercl^ant essels, which prevented oar taldi^ them.

The Bay of Scale Nuova is entirLly open ftom North to S.W. by the west, between which points, during summer, the sea-breezes invariably blow ; these are often strong, and always throw in a heavy swell. The holding ground is good, but the Bay cannot be considered as a secure anchorage for vessels of any size. The coasters and smaller merchant vessels obtain some shelter from the swell by hauling close, either to the main shore or to tlie island, and securing with a warp. In these situations tliey ootthi not lie with si^fety, if the wind blew fresh from the North and N.K

During the summer months, when the sea and land breezes are alternate and tolerably regular, ships can get out of this anchorage in the night or early morning ; at which times, the boatmen told us, the current generally sets Ottt of the bay ; which it is natural to sup- pose would be the case, from the water forced in by the sea-breeze seeking its level as soon as that breeze had subsided. If a smart ship were anchored well over toward the casde, and the swell was not very heavy, she might, perhaps, be able to weather the spit, and get

« First given in the ^auticat M<^aaine, Feb. 18U.

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out with the m b ww e ; though no ihip could ha?e ttltmpted it with safety from our

The longitude of ihe white clifT was obaertcd to be 37^ l& 31". Variation ofthe com-

Provisions and wood can be procured in abundance. Water may also be had from the fountains in the town, but not in any considerable quantity for a sliip of war. The times for watering must be the night or early morning, when the swell has gone down.

The town of Scala Nuova (1832) is said to contain about 8000 inhabitants, of whom 800 are Greeks, 200 or "OO Annenians and Jews, 2000 Turks, or Mohamm* dan Alljanians, as they are stvled, who were driven from the Morea at the commencement of the Greek revolution, and the rest Tbrks proper. The Turkish population reside in their own quarter

of the town, which is walled, and the gates are closed every evening. Several Turks from

the Morea reside in the Greek quarter, which is built on the side ofthe hill.

The export trade of Scala Nuova is in dried fruit, corn, beans, a little wine, some cotton, and occasionally valonia, which are shipped, principally, in Greek, Austrian, Sardinian, and Ionian, vessels. English merchant vessels are rar^ and come for valonia only.

SCIO. - (See vol. ii. page 124.) Two li(;ht-towers, based on rock, before the port, indi- cate to shipping the track for enterirtfr; and a jetty, now even with the water, forms the south side of the harbour : but w htitiier the lights, for a time discouuoued| have been re- instated we have not been informed.

GULF of 8M YRNA.^(P«ee 139.) The following Remarks on the Bay of Vourla, in the Gulf of Smyrna, were written by Mr. Geo. Peac6ck, master of H.M. steam vessel

Idedeaj in 1834.

The anchornc;e known as Vourla Bay is situate on the S.W. side of the Gulf of Smyrna, about nine leagues from Cape Calaberno, [Ko?i/tt Douroun^'] within the islands of Ilourlac or Dourlac, which are seven in number , namely, Long Island, Partridge Idand, Goat Island, Rabbit Island, St. John's Island, Round Island, and Clazomene. There are also two small islets of! the north end of iSt. John s island, and two off the N.W. point of Goat Island. The passages betwew these islands, with respect to each other, are all good and clear, except that between St. John's and Round Island, wliich is contracted to half a cable's length by a reef extending out from their two nearest points : in this channel are 7 and 10 fathoms. That between Clazomene and the main is blocked up by the remains of the antient causey. Ships coming from the westward usually pass outside Long and Partridge Islands, and having rounded the latter, steer for the channel between St. Joliu's and Rabbit Islands \ and, havioe brought the custom-bouse at the bottom of Vourla Bay on between the brMk in a lOW ol windmRb al Vooria, steer for the former, or, which is the same thing, keep in mid-channel, and having brought the watering place W. by N., haul a little to the westward and anchor where you please. Perhr^ps the best anchorage is with the bluff point of Hound island E. by N., and the tower to liie northward of the watering place N-W.^ ai^Uie custom-house before mentioned S.by W.in19fothoms: but, as this anchorage will accommodate the largest fit ct in the world, you may pick up any berth you please, only be careful not to approaich too near the soutii point of Goat Island, as a shoal, with only 18 feet on it, lies S.W. Drum it, about two cables and do not go into less than 5 fethoms in the bay to the southward of the lound tower.

If desirous of passing between Long Island and the main, keep the S.W. point of liong Island open on your larboard bow ; and as you approach it you will perceive a small low islet lying off it, which must not be passed nearer than half a mile. liaving rounded this islet, you will see Partridge Island come open ; it is high, and has a peak at its northern end. Open its northern end a hand-spike's length to the southward of the south point of Long Island, and then haul up for the centre of Partridge Island W.S.W., steering that course until Round-lower Point, which at this distance makes like an island, and has a tower on It, comes on with another (high) point to the southward of it, bearing S. \ E., or until the custom-house in the bottom of Vourla Bay comes open of the latter ; you will then be clear of the shoal which lies off the point Hourlac, half a mile, having 15 feet on it, and may steer for the custom>hoose, passing in mid-channel betwe«i Rouod>tower point and Gorit Island : do not borrow on the latter, on account ofthe 18 feet shoal before mentioned; and, having brought the watering place west or W. by N., anchor as before staled. The holding ground is excellent, being ^iff mud.

A pier has been erected by the squadnm at the watering place, wliich facilitates the mode

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of watering : the ibimtiln is tteut 20 fittfaoms ft<An liie pier-eArf, and (be water is filled bv a common hoie nted aC one end by boats' oan^ or a foica-pomp may be applMI wim

good effect.

For IVIr. Hall's Directions for the Stcaii fonned by the point of Sl James's castle, k.e,,

see vol. ii. page xxv.

TENEDOS. - fPflge 167.) This island, wiUi the islets, &c., in tlie vicinity, may be more correctly descriM as follows

TsmBDOs is six miles long from oast to west, 3i broad CD tbe eait»and tapering to aUw poiaC

un the west. From the niin'^ -f J'<'u Slambuul [ant. Alf rantUhi Troas,] its nearest distance is 34 miles; the channel belwecn being three miles broad, anU the depths, exci^pting the northern part, 13 to 7 fathoms. The highest land is to the N.B., and the port occupies the N.E. angle of the island. The town is described in its place (vol. ii. p. 157.) At a mile tO the W.N.W. of it is Mount Elias, a sugar-loaf hill, {j'2o feet high above the sea.

The S.E. part of the channel, to the N.W. of Eski Stambool, is impeded by shoals extending nearly a mile and a half to the N.W. from the maiii lamJ, but immediately without them are 10 aad 1 1 fathoms of water : and in the northern part of the cbanneJ* at a mile to tbe eastward of tbe port of Tenedos, is ati Met named MaMna^ haTlof near its western side a ledge of roeks, noticed in page 158: but the passage between the latter and the port is three-quarters of a mile wide, with the depthsof 9 and 10 fathoms^ and it is the safest and best for shipping. The Black Cape, at thti base of Ifoant Elias, the nortbemmost point of ^e Island, is nearly a mile to the N.W. from the town of Teuedos. AtX.N.K. one-third of a mile from the cape, is an islet, Petramin, and about one' tenth of a mile to the west from the latter, is a sunken rock, on whioh H.M.S. Taibot struck on the SSnd of November, 18S8. The ship nm agronod at II «. m. and floated off, uninjured, at 6 h. 15 m. p.m. after her puns were taken out and her water started. Upon tbe shoal the ship had 11 feet, hard rock, under the fore foot ; 21 feet in the after part of

On the wMfsrw ride of the Ifalrino, or GaidaRMoiai, Ihapaam^ for laise ships Is oaly half a mile wide, being limited ou the east bj a patahof oaly 16 foe^ now eallad the Oottm JZtf^bat the

depths arc 6 and 7 fathoms.

i he Kuum BournoUjOt Sandy Poiut, noticed in page 159, lies nearly true East, three miles, from the port of Tenedos, in latitode 30° 5(y 30", and the shoal water extends from it one mile W. by N., in the direction of the Ocean Reef; its depths being 2^, 3, and 4, fathoms. Small vessels may, therefore, pass over it. The anchorage in Bassikia or Vasikia Bay is d| miles to the northward of tlie Sandy Point (JEbinii Jlottnum), and Ae distanee thence to the entrance of tbe Dardanelles is seven miles.

GULF of SAIIOS. - (Toi. ii. p. 152.) Should a vessel on entering the Gulf of Saros be taken with a S.W. gale, she may keep on a N.E. course until she gets to the eastward of Cape Ibridgi, when she may anchor in two fathoms, close in shore, and thence steer for the snntlt si (I( nf the Paoagia Isles, al the head of tho Gulf, where there is anchorage in 17

fathoms, clear of all danger.

MOUNT ATHOS, - {Page 149.) Of this remarkable peninsula and its monasteries a copious and cariooB description, by itsuf. fPihber 8mUk, (48th regiment,) was given in the

The peninsula, the Acle of former days, is now the Agion Oroi (pr. nearly as Jyon Oro) of the Greeks, and Monie Santo of the Franks. It is connected to the main land by a low sandy isthmus of undulating ground, while its south-eastern extremity rises abruptly to tbe bejgbt of 6349 ftet above the sea.

The general aspect of the peninsula is rugged, being intersected !)y innumerable ravines. The ground rises almost immediately and rather abruptly from the isthmus at the northern end to about 300 feet, and for tbe first twelve miles maintains a table land, the elevation of which is about 600 foet, beantifuUy wooded. At this spot the peninsula, between the monasteries of Valopedi on the east, and Kastamonitu on the west, is narrowed in- to rather less than two miles in breadth. It immediately afWward expands to its average breadth of four miles, which it retains to its southern extremity. From this point also tfie land becomes mountainous lather than hilly, two of the heights readiiog, respectively, 1 700 and 1 200 feet above the sea. Four miles farther south, on t!io partem slope of the mountain ridge, and at a neariy equal distance from tbe east and west siiores, is situate the little town of Karj^$f

- By SOBS Ctesks called CMdsrt-aM.

ImnMdiatdy to (be southward of Kary^ the ground rises to 2200 ftet» whence a rugged broken country, coveted with a forest nf dark-leaved foliaop, pxtnnds to the foot of the mountain, which rears itself, in solitary magnificence, an insulated cone of white limestone, rising abruptly to the height oi 6350 feet above the lea. Cloae to the cliflb at the southern extiemity no bottom was found with 60 &thonis oflioe.

The town or village of Kary^s is at the head of a valley looking down toward the sea, almost encircled by an amphitheatre of hills, covered with a rich mass of foliage. It the residence of the Agha, a kind gentlemanly man, who with his brother are the only Turks on the peninsula.

A weekly fldror maiket is held here on Sattifday, which presents the singoJar spectacle

of a fair without noise, and n crowd without a woman. " I should rather say without any thing tame of tlie feminine gender. Horses, bulls, rams, and cocks, are not uncommon; but every thing of the other sex is absolutely forbidden, as fer as man can forbid ; but un. civilised nature asserts her rights, and wild pigeons and oihfir birds, and insects, especially bees, aboondt and, in spite of the monks! unnatural regulations, afford a valuable source of

Hie position of the Peak of Athos^ acooiding to the late survey, is, latitude 4« 10', longi-

SAMOTHRAKI. - (Pflge 152.) This island was visited by Lieut. Webber Smith, in 1836, who landed on its N.W. end; the land thence rises abruptly to the height of 5248 feet above the sea, abounding in rocks, trees, and streamlets. Sailed thence to the west point, landed, and rode three miles to the village of about 300 houses, all Greek, with a Turkish agha. Di^ring the revolution the Turks burnt their church, which was re- building. The people appear a hardy set of mountaineers, but iu abject poverty.

THASOS (page 151,) was also visited by Lieut. Smith, who describes it as another beautiful island, lai^er than Samothraki, but not so lo%; the summit of Mount Ipsariu, the highest in the isbmd, reaching only 3428 feet above the sea. Here rock is piled upon rock, the whole thickly wooded with pines. The northern point of the island is distant f)nly three miles and a quarter fiom the plain of the Kara Sou (or Black water^ ou the souihern shore of Room^ (ant. Thraoe). - jMtmal ^fikeR, Gtog, Sotkfy, vol. vii. p. 64.

The DARDANELLS^ - iVoL ii. pages 158, g.) Observations by Captain 6. Martm, C.B. of H.M.S. FoAfge, on entering the Dardanells with an adverse wind.

*» It is an opinion pretty generally entertained, th^it sliips entering the Dardanells must necessarily wait for a fair wind ; and under this impression numberless mercbant^veasels are frequently detained in Basnkia Bay, and in tiie neighbourhood of the outer casdes. This opinion I am satisfied is incorrect, not only from my own observation but from the information I have been able to collect from those who have had opportunities of visitinor these straits, under various circumstances and at various seasons of liie ^^^eai. iSiups ou leaving Bctssikia Bay, and crossing the current, should endeavour to fetch, and, if possible, to weather, Imbros; wliich maybe done with a moderate breeze (the wind against them) without any difficulty ; they will then almost invariably find the wind coming down between Imbros and the main, or from the N.W.; and, on aoproaching the main land, sufficiently frvorable to enable them to fetch into the eddy on tne Asiatic side, when they can easily work up to the anchorage of the white cliffs. They will be then ready to take advantage of any change or slant of wind, which will enable them to pass tlie Dardanells or Narrows, between me old castles of Europe and Asia : this effiecteo, they will then keep the Asiatic shore on board, where there is a remarkably strong eddy ; and, should the wind not prove favorable for passing Point Nagara, they may anchor off the Kiosk. {Page 163.)

<' I am satisfied that much time is lost from the impression that great difficulties exist in this passage, and consequently manv are deterred from makmg an attempt, the remit of which mt^t be attended with considerable saving of both time and eapense, olgecis <tf no

small importance to mercantile men." - Naut. Mag. Dec. 1835.

DARDANELLS and Bosphorus. - {Fdl. ii. p. \6!).) It appears from recent reports, that the shoalground^ have increased on the eastern shores both of the Dardanells and Bosphorus. 1%e bark Marf Anne, Capt. Andenoo, early in 1839, on returning from die

Black Sea, touched the edge of the bai-k which extends from Kl,arr!iki Point, on the N.E. shore of the Dardanells, from its having been inaccurately laid down in the chart, the bank extending half a mile farther out than it was represented.

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The extended shoal in the Bosphorua is that described by Captain Middletony (vol. page 181,) first given indie Nautkal Magazinet March, 1833, and Janmrv, 18S4 s addi- tional particulars have been given in the same miscellany, of July, 1840, by Mr. Geoige Wright, master of H.M.S. Dido, which are nearly as follow - -

The shoal on the Asiatic shore, opposite to the village of Buyutcdereh, on which several sbips have struck, has its nortiiern extremity in 5 fathoms, at about 2^ cables S.W. from the point at the ibot of Mount Gheant or Giant's Mount, whidi has a farm on its summit: this farm then appears open to the right of the first quarry near the beach, E.N. E., and an old round tower, standing upon the high land on the European shore, a ship's length open to the eastward of the 'Walled Fort,' N.N.E. i E. The black gate of the Russian ambassador's palace at Boyukdereht will then be on with the Scala and cenlrid window^

The Bank extends thence, in a southerly direction, nearly three-quarters of a mile, to widlin two cables of the north point of the bay of the Sultan's valley,* varying in breadth fiom 100 to 30 yards, and having over it from 6 fathoms to 6 feet of water ; kis composed of a dirty kind of sai. J and gravel, with detached stones. At the southern extremity, in 7 fathoms, the Britisti Ambassador's palace at Th^rapia is its own breadth open to the iomhwud of a leinarfcable stove of tieet behind it, w.a W., and the Samia, or Health, office, E^.E. is just open of the point.

Nearly in the centre the shoal is divided by a channel about 30 yards broad, east and .west, having 10 to 13 fathoms, and thus forminc^ two distinct patchp?, v.'hich, in the event of a ship grounding near it, might be available ; oUierwise, from tlie general strength of the cnnent this paanie eonhl scarMly be turned to any acconnt.

It is only in the event of working to the southward, or having a aesnt easterly wind,

that a r>eoes?i(y would arise for borrowing on it ; but there is no such necessity, for the channel between it and Therapia (on the western shore,) affords ample room for a ship under any cireumatances { yet several vessels from the northward have been seen when

skirting the western edge of the bank, as if apprehensive of falling to leeward upon the spit of Yenikioy Point, forgetting that the current there generally sets out so strong to the - S.E, that tliey could hardly fail in avoiding it.

Eastward of the bank there is a very good channel and anchorage, having from 5 to 15 fathoms, and ships from the southward, with a commanding breeie, may use it with great advantage, as the current is at all times much less thpre than in the stream From tiie Black Sea, with a northerly wind, this route will shorten the distance considerably, and prevent a necenily for anclioring at Bi^kdereh or Therapia, should the wind fiuL

On approaching from the northward, in order to sail on the west of the bank, bring the Old Genoese Castle on with a signal post in the fort at the foot of the Mount Gheant, until the .southernmost high clump of trees opposite Yenikioy Point comes just on with it; - or, if they are obscured, until the old round tower above the Walled Fort on the European side comes open to the westward of its flagstaflT. Run tiras until the Health Office, S.E. by £., is well open of Unkiar Skelessi Point, when you may haul over for it, as ships generally communicate here.

In working to the zouihxuard, stand no nearer to the Bank tiiau in i ^ fathoms, nor open the round tower to the eastward of the flagstaff in the Walled Fort, as it is very bold-t(^ shoaling suddenly from 15 to 5 and 2 fathoms.

If, from the northmrd, you intend to pass through the eastern channel, haul round the point as close as you please, in 7 or 8 fathoms, in order to avoid the current which here sets strongly toward the shoid ; stand into the litde Bay of Qtianies, until Yeaikioy Point comes a ship's length open of the point of Unkiar Skelessi, which will lead through in from 1 2 to 8 fathoms.

Ships from the sonthvHird will have no difficulty in observing these directions in a contrary manner. Another leading-mark, and which may be found more couvenient, is a vemarkable brown patch, on the highest land above the Walled Fort, kept on wiUi its eastern angle.

The master of a ship^ not wishing to delagr al Ck>nstantinople, and particularly if in

* This point is called, lirom a monument upon to eommemorate the Treaty of Peace, die pmnt

of Unkiar Skektsi.

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want of water, may find a good and well-sheltered anchorage off the Sultan's Valley, and if be takes a boat^to Cootlailtinople and arranges his business with the consul, be wiU, on his rettirn, find the ship watered, and he clears the Bosphonis without having to anchor in the Golden Hom, or Port, a place which is, in winter, very iooonfenieut, from its depth of water, with its cnmded and exposed stale.

VOYAGES of the ACTION. - ^Naples to the ABCUiP£LAGO, Dardamslls, and

In the years 1833, 34, H.M.S. Actatorit Captain the Bm. F. Ortyy was engaged in the navigation between Malta and the Bosphorus or Channel of Constanlinoplo. On the 25th of January, 1833, she left the harbour of Valetta, being towed out against a heavy twetl and a firesh N.W.wind. Baffling winds succeeded. At 4^.«. of the 26th slm passed the low sandy point of Cape Granitola, the fl«W. point of Sicily, and thence pro- ceeded to Naples, where she arrived on the 28th.

On the 6th of April the ship was under way for a voyage to the Bosphorus. At 4 p. m. on the 8th she entered the Strait of Messiua, with a fresh breeze from the N.W. After rounding the Faro it was observed that the vessels, which kept on the Calabrian shore, carried a steadier brco7e than tbo<:e on the Sicilian ; for while soue Were nearly heeefaned off ifessioa, the others

were ruDiiing through with a fine breeze.

On the passage between Cape dell' Armi, the S.W. point of Caiabria, and Cape Matapan, the south point of Greece, freih breezes from the westward and a heavy head swell, with current geoeially to the S.E. Squally, nuscttled weather sMt-r-ppfiff?, with rain ami lightning, which beared away to a fresh northwe&ter and fine weather, in iat. 36^ 16', and long. 22° 8', it appeared that the ship had been set 90 miles to the southwaid in the last tmmftf-fam \Mm,

Oo nj^prciaching Cape Matapan it was found that the wind under the Cape was blowing a heavy gale from N.W. by during the night, and at 4 a.i». made sail with a moderate hreesse at N.E., and worired through the Sent Pas»>age. Met a heavy northei^ swdl on openioK Cape St. Angclo, worked up to the northward against light northerly windi, and thence pfoeeedea.

to Nauplia, where the Actaeon anchored on the 13th.

Leaving Nauplia oo the morning or the 15th of April, the ship passed Spetsia aud pursued her course through the Hydra Passage to the Golf of Eginaand Che Pir«as or Port of Athene, where she arrived on the 16th, and anchored in 7^ fathoms. On the 17th again under way j cleared the Zea Passage and passed through the Strait of Silota with light variable winds. Ou the morning of the I9th, with a btceee from the soolbward, proceeded tiins, norih-castward, to Cape Baba in latitude .^O" 30', and the wind drawing round to N.E., worked up inside of 'J eucdos, aud anchored in Basikia Bay. (This bay iu described in vol. ii. page 169.) From the anchorage here, in 74 fathom^ quite shdtered hem N.B. nind^ the Sigean promontofy bore N. 4 E. i Smaller Rabbit Island N.W. by W. | W. j and the town of Tenedoe &W. hy W.

On the morning of April 23rd the Arfr^^on was again under way, aiid, work-nj^ up with a moderate breeze, entered the Dardaneiis with a Is.W. wind, and ran up un iht: i>uropeau shore till nearly m high as Point Barbierc ; when, the wind coming from the N.E., she stood across and anchored otf the white diflk, io 10 falho^r;^ ivith ihF> Houthernraost of thp two large white difis £. ^ N. j Point Barbiere N.N.E. i £. j aud the valley opposite N.N.\\ . ^ W.

Tbe injSnenza on board and adverse drenmstanees detained the diip until the 96tb, when the

got under way with a fine breeze from the r«nthward, but which soon failed. Ou the morning of the SOtb a fresh southerly breeze enabled the ship to pan the castlea aud enter the Sea of Ifarmara. Having passed Gallipoli, she iteeied e!N.E., a eoarse wbidi carried her five miles'

to the northward of the ii^laud Marmara. With a course altered to East, 51 miles, land was seen ; hauled up N.E., and, at 6 p.m. passed the SiUtan's palace i\t Con«t:infinop!e.

BOSPHORUS.-»ilt/ay ls<, 1833, to /on. Ut, 1834. - During the utmuier moothii the Actaeon's anchorage was at the diiitanee of a cable and three-qnanen west from the point of the Asiatie

shore, off Therapia ; both in order to be near the p u ici , and from its being considered much Uiore healthy to be in the full draught of the sea-breeze, than by a nearer approach to the marshy ground at the entrance of tbe river, to run tbe risk of the fevers so prevrient in all the velleys and low grounds in tin innntl] of AupTst, "\VTi ether owing to thi*^ prccnTition, or not, durinir the whole summer thev lia l only one case of fever, and that, although severe, not fatal.

Captaiu Grey adds, *'The huiding-ground here is not of the best kind ; but with a good cope of cable (we veered to 100 fathoms chain) there is no risk of the ship driving; certainly not with westerly and southerly winds, which alone would be dangerous; and the current, with few exceptions, I believe I might say during the summer without an exception, running cuu- stantly down, a ship never goes near her anchor. The shoals a-head| m a great measure, prevent the risk thrrr micrht Otherwise be of vefiscls coming down running on board. In fast* 1 recommeud tbi^ anchorage as much the best in summer. '

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" Upon our return to the Bosphorus, in November, we took up a berth with the above-men- tioned point N.N.W. of us, about 1| cable's length from the mouth of a rim} and we have found it so sheltered that« in the heavy gale of the I5t1i and 16th of Deoember, which did so mtich damage in the Black Sea and Archipelago, the ship rode perfectly easy, without veering any cable. A French brig of war, in Tberapia Harbour, rolled very heaviljr, and bad great diflM|l|]r i» Iweping olear of the two or three other veawle lying thern.

In thesMHitli of May and beginning of June the weather was edid and rainy, the N.B.

winds being often accompanied by cold dump fog^; from the Black Sea. From the beginning of June till the middle of September there was no rain^ the weather fine, and the beat seldom oppreesiva. Toward the end of September the weather broke op, and we bad sqaatla asd nin : niu?, in the beginning of October the wmther was variable and unsettled. From the 13th of

October to the 8th of November we were absent from the Bosphorus.

" On the 9th and lOth of November the wind was southerly, with fine weather j ami from that time to the 3rd of December the N.E. wind blew almost without interruption, son . ti ties fresh and cold. During the month of December the wind was generally from the sont tjwurj ; on the 13th it blew fresh from the westward, and the same night sbiited i>uddeuly to the iN.VV . and then N.B. wham it franhened up by the following night to one of the heaviest gales known here for many years, accompanied by heavy rain and sleeu On the 16th it moderated, nnd again came from the southward. On the 26th it blew fresh from the S.W., and in the mght the wind i^n suddenly shifted to the northward', and blew hard for two dayt from N.B*, whtQ it again came to the southward."

from a register of winds at Therapia, May to December, of 205 day^ those from nortii to «ut were 139; from S. lo W. 45$ and variable airs, SI.

Captain Grey describes in detail his subsequent passages from the Bosphorm to Smyrna and l^^ain from the Gulf to the Bosphoras, as given in the Nautical Magazine of October, 1834, from which we have made the preceding abstract. liis description of the navigation in the southern part of the Sea of Marmara and Gulf of Mbadunieh is entitled to parfieular notiee.

Moudanich, on the south side of the gulf, is the sea-port of Brma; the country round it is laid out in vineyards, interspersed with olives, and appears to be very fertile : but the aachorafe is open, with soft ground. At the head of the gulf is the town of Gumeltkk or QkmMtt haviog; ft building-dock, and which is inhabited chiefly by Greeks under a Turkish agha* The OOUDtrj here is likewise very fertile, and some trade is carried on in wine, oil, and silk*

Nortliern extremities of the Bosphorus. - (^Vol. it. page 179.) Two new towers, with lights on the improved principle, at the northern entrance of the Bosphorus, were completed in January, 1839, and that oo the European side has been particularly noticed as very effective: but the dues intended to be exacted for their support have been verv unsatisfac- tory, as much too high : a more equitable rate, however»if notidreedjr estaUished, may be

TRADE witii TURKEY. New Quarantine Regulations, dated ** Office of Committee of Privj Council ht Trade ; WhitehaU, October 14, ISSd.*"

ByaTariiF of quarantine duties at Constantinople the charge varies on vessels, of lOOO kilogrammes to 12,000^ for a bill of health, from 3 to 34 piavterB j for the vesael henelf, from

one to 12 piasters.*

Every vessel arriving at Coubtantiuople, from any port whatsoever, shall be liable to a duty, on interrogation, whi<^ varies from 2 to 90 piaaters, in proportion to the size of the vessel. Vessels while in quarantine are also to pay a duty, which varies according to the »ize, from 8 to 36 piasters. In this duty h included the pay of the guards of health, until the arrival of the vessel at Constantinople. With respect to the guards taken on board at the Dardanells, or at Ga11i[)oli, tliey shall be paid for at the rate of 10 piasters per diem until the arrival of the vessel in this capital. In either case the board of the guards shall be at the expense of the

Travellers entering the Lazaret are to pay for each guard of health, besides board, daily, 10 piasters i for each room, for perfumes, during the whole quarantine, 45 piasters. No charge i3wu be aaade for lodging.

£adi bale of merchandise, weighing not above 4d okcs, is to pay one piaster, and above 120 okcs it pay- i piasters. Talaable merchandise, the disinfection of which wonld be difficult,

e The Kitognnme* French, is a trifle more than SIhs and M hvndiedCh parti ef Bn^ish troy

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Sheeps, goats, kids. Iambs, atid other quadrupeds of this kind, each 20 paiH* Fowls, geese, ducks, and other birds of the same kind, each I para.

The duties established by this tariff are payable «t Constantinople only, and cannot be charged at diher of the aaaaloiy offieet of tbe Dardanelb or of OalUpoli*

All \ e =els, Ottoman or fort it;n, shnll be equally liable to tlioni, with thr tm yition of vcHsels of war, without distinction of nation, liable to qaarantine, which shall be free from payment for tiieir gvahls of health.

Conitaotinopl^ Jane 22, 1838.

The undersigned, composing on the one side the Council of Health, under tbe Presidency of his Excellency Hifzy Moustapha Pacha, and on the other, the foreign delegates accredited to the said council by the different embassieii, at the request of the Sublime Porte, having mrt in conference for the purpose of deliberating upon the choice of tbe quarantine system be^t adapted to tbii capital against objects arriving by sea, being animated with an equal derire lo reconcile as much as pus-ible \hf sanntory provisivnis %v ith the wants of the maritime commeree, have, after mature deliberation, unanunousiy agreed upon tbe following resolutions: -

** Article I. Every vessel arriving at Constantinople shaTI be provided with a bill of health, which it (the captain) shall be bound to deliver to the chief officer of the Sanatory Board, whoee duty it ii to demand it, and who shall receive it upon tbe end of a pole, without boarding the

<' Art. S. There shall be three deeeriptione of billiy-^yia. : the Clean Bin, the SuspeeCed Bill,

and the Foul Bill.

"Every bill delivered 30 Hay^ after the last case of plagne shall be considered clean. The vessel which carrier it shall be admitted to free prati4Ue, with its passengers, crew, and curgo.

Every bill delivered 16 day* after the laat eeaa of plagne shall be considered suspected. The veis^ wbidi cairies it shall perform a quarantine of 16 days if it be laden, and of 10 if in

'* Every bill delivered within less than io days since the last case of plague shall be considered foul. The vessels wbieh carries it Aall perform a qnarautine of 20 days if it be laden, and of

f ,3 if in ballast.

" Art. 3. Tbe period of quarantine, for laden vessels, as well suspected as foul, shall com- menoe from the day on whfim they shul anchor before the Lazaret of Konleli. Considering,

however, on llie one hand, that the weather may sometimes prevent them from proccediug to that anchorage, and on the other, that at present there exists no means of towing them thither without delay, It is agreed that warehonscs shall be oonstraeted with as little delay as possible upon tlic ['( iiit 1 TFi ner Baktche, to receive the carg io^ of ' ossels placed in the above circum- stances, the quarantine of which shall in that case commence from the day of their anchoring at the said Point of Fener Balttdie.

" It is understood, moreover* that this facility shall be granted 00I7 Co Tessela evidentlf

prevented by the weather from proceeding to the Lazaret of Kouleli, aud until the Sanatory Board shall have at its disposal suitable means for conducting them thither, notwithstanding the

Art. 4. Tbe quarantine for vessels in hallaal;* as well smpected as foul, shall eoouneoce to

reckon from the day of their arrival.

"Art. 5. Every suspected or foul vessel, whether laden or in ballast, arriving by the Stcaita of the Dardanells, shall be bound to take on board a guard of health either at the Sanatoiy*

office of the Dardanells or at that of Gallipoli, according to the captain's choice.

** If the vessel be in ballast, its qnamntine shall count from tbe day on which the guanl foes on board, upon condition that it be subjected to the measures of disinfection prescribed by the latter. In this case, if tbe vessel shall have completed the quarantine during the voyage, it aludl be received to free pratique at Constantinople.

"If the vessel be laden, its quarantine shall in eveiy case commence from the day of its anchoring at Kouleli, or at Fener Balitehe* '< Upon their arrival at Constantinople, Tesscb with cargoes, as wdl as those in ballast, which

diall not have completed their quarantine on the voyage, shall receive an additional guard, which they shall keep, together with that taken on board at tbe Dardanells or ut Gallipoli, until the cxpiratioii of their quarantine. ^ ^

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<* h tinderatood that ressels with A deaa bill -hall not be obliged to stop either at the

DarduucUs or at Gallipoli.

*( Art. 6. Sttspeeted or fool vetHele in belleet may cast ancbor at the entranoe of the hariwort

or in the canal at some distancf from the shore, under the inspection of their guards. Vessels arriviug with cargoes shall eojuy the same privilege, but not until after anloading their cargoes^ whidi Uiqr sboald Ant dudiarge at Konldi or at Fener Baktdie.

Art. 7. Yeaels laden or in ballast comiof from the Mediterranean and bound for the Black Sea, with a suspected or foul bill, shall be *»qiialljr bound to take on board a guard of health at the Dardaoells or at Gallipoli, whether they mteud to complete their quarautiae at Cuiij»tauti- nople or prefer continuing their voyage, performing it «» tOHle. On their arrival here they shall hoist at the mi7<>!inia^r a Wit of two utripei, yellow and blacky phMed vertically^ whiob they shall keep flyiug until their departure.

'* It shall be lawfot for tneh emelt to perform their quarantine at Constantinople, submitting to the measures laid down in the preceding articles for vessels bound to this port : but in this case the captains most declare their intention at the time of the examinatioa to which they wiU be subject.

'* If) on the contn^, they prefer continuing their voyage, performing their quarantine m roMle, they shall receive on their arrival an additional guard, which they shall keep on board until their departure, together with that received at the Dardauells, or at Gallipoli, and before their entry into the Black Sea they shall disembark both at the sanatory port of Kavak. With respect to merchandise and passengers destined for Constantinople, they shall be disembarked at the Lazaret of Kouleli, or shall complete tbeir quarantine oouformahly to the sanatory con-

*- The boat belonging to the Sanatory Board charged with the duly of examining the bills shall without delay notify the arrival of the vessels to their respective embassies, in order that they may prepare for theni» with the necessary precautions, the eastomaiywairants and firmans for the Black Sea.

** It is understood that such vessels being in ballast, and wishing to avail thew^clvrs of the facility for commencing their quarantine at the Dardanellii or at Gallipoli, upou the terms contwied in the second paragraph of the filth article, shall be entitled to that privilege: bat in this case they must previously declare their intention at whichever office they take their guard of health, in order that the latter may subject them during the voyage to the necessary mea- flores of diainfeetloin.

*<Art. 8. Vessels coming from the Black Sea, with suspected or foal bills, whether with

cargoes or in ballast, shall take a guard of health at the Sauatory-ofilce of Kavak, or that of Sihi Bournou if the weather shall render it wholly impracticable to stop at the former place ; but they will not have to undergo an interrogatory at either uf those places. This formality ahall be executed at the Lazaret of Kouleli, where they also shall receive their additional guard.

'* All the dispositions of the seventh article relative to suspected or foul vessels bound to the Black Sea are <;(iualiy applicable to venels coming from infected ports hi that sea, and vfaieh, being bound to the Mediterranean, do not desire to perform their quarantine at Con- stantinople. These vessels, however, shall be at liberty to disembark here, at the moment of tbeir departure, one <rf the two sanatory guards, and shall keep the other ontil their arrival at the Daroanellef wbert ttij ah«U it At the Sanatoiy-office of tiw plaoa*

Art. 9. Every vessel arriving either from the Mediterranean or the Black Sea shall undergo an oral examioatiun, when the captain shall faithfully declare the state of his vessel with regard to health, and tiie eommnnieations which he may have had during the voyage. Jf the v«m«1 be 'suspected or foul ha shall immediately receive the additional guard.

"Art. 10. It is expressly understood that no officer of health, with the exception of the sanatory guards, may in any case go on board of vessels either at Constantinople or in the other )porti or places witiliin the Ottoman empire where the sanatory regulations have to be observed*

**Thi8 prohibition shall be most rigorously maintained with respect to vessels bound with a clean hill for ports of the Black Sea in which an organized quarantine exists, which do not desire to communicate with Constantinople nr an^ oHier place in Turkey. These vessels shall HMNreover be exempt from the obligation of delivering their hill of health lo the officer of

'* With respect to foul or suspected vessels bound for Coustaptiuople, which have already received their sanatory guard, no person shall be permitted to go on board of them, exe^t the medical officer of quarantine, in the special case of there being a person sick on board, in order

to assure himself of the character of the disease.

** Art. 11. Any vessel on board of which a case of plague shall have occurred, shall always be -t liberty to depart without performing quarantine here. It will only be bound to take a bill hMltii> which shall mention the oecnrrwoe of the said case of plague on board of it

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' <* Alt. 13. In order to expedite as muck as posriUa thecxeccition of theae MDlloiyfbnnalitlet, it shall be compulsory opon all vessels coming either from the MediteRueaa or the BltiCk Soo^ to boist at their mizen-mast one of the tbree ioUoviog flagit

" White, for a clean bill. ' ^ Whita aod black, for a suspected bill. Black, for a fool bOl.

" The vessels lueiitioDcd in tho fiot ptngMpli of tlia 7(h arUdo are axaoipC from the obliga- tion to hoist these flags.

*'Art. 13. In order to save a considerable expense to the steam-boats which are making .weekly trip0» it shall be Jawful for them to keep their guards on board all the tkne (hat the ports with which they are in communication shall be infected or under sutpieion.

" Art. 14. Every vessel benring a clean bill, nhirh shall have had commnnication en rouir witii u !>uspected or infected place, »hall be subject to the quarauliue regululiuas required by the state of health of tbat phm.

''Art. 15. Passengers arriving in vessels with a suspected or foul hill shall perform their qoaraatiDeat Kouleli. Its duration shall be 15 days for a foul and ten days for a suspected bill. lA b apeed that passengere arriving from the Mediterranean tn veisett in ballast, whether fuul or suspected, shall partake of the relaxation accorded to vessels in the second paragraph of the 5th article. Those who shall have intended to perforo; their quarantine at Constantinople, and shall be on board of rescels wbidi are prevented by stress of weather from putting in at Kouleli, shall be transported thither, together with their baggage, in the boats of the LaaMM^ and th*^ir qnarantines shall commeuce from the day of the arrival of the ves^p!.

Art. 16. All offences against the quarautiue regulations shall be tried according to the laws whidi prevail lo BoNfte, and the offender shall be handed over for pnnisbment to the anthori^ to whi& be appeals.

** Art. 17. The undersigned having some time ago come to the resolution that the duties of 4]ttaraDtine cannot be levied fur two months after the conclusion and signature of the definitive vegalatious, think it expedient to add here, that this interval sbatl eommeaee npoa the preeeot

day, and that, consequently, the payment of the duties will become eompnlsory upon and after the 10th of Auguiit next. The Europeau delegates take upou themselves to request their eespective chiefs to recointneud to the approbation of their Courts the tariff at tbat time proposed by the Council t f Ht aliii and modified by them, in <vder that during the interval of

the two months this point also may be detimuvely settled.

" Art. 18. It is determined tbat the mazimnra duration of quarantine for merchandise shall

" Art. 19. The present regulation having for its object only measures of [ 1 1( ^uitl ii*a.: uiist olyects arriving by &ea« the Council of Health upon the proposition of the delegates, undertakes to euuaine and dtaenss with tben at an early period the qnettion relative to sanatoiy cordons and local measnsee of dmnfedion.

"additional article.

'* It is expressly agreed that the warehouses to be erected at Fener Raktche, according to the stipulation uf article 3, shall be constructed of stone. The delegates allow three mouths fur the erection of these warehouses. Until tbat tine suspected or foul vessels which shall arrive with cargoes will run the chance of contrary weather, if it prevents them from reaching the Lazaret of Kouleli. But the Council of Health pledges itself to employ all the meaus in its power to conduct them thither at the earlie»t possible moment, their quarantine conunenciog to count from the day on which they shall anchor before the lazaret.

" The present regulation shall be deposited in the archives of the Council of Health, and -hall be of the same weight as an organic and fandamental AcL

' *' Done and signed at Constantinople in the Hall of the ConfMltnoes of tlie CottneD of Health,

Exclusive of Dghts at the entKWce of the Bosphorus, already described, those which may be seen on the passage upward lo CMess;\ ore, one on Cape Kherson, upon the S.W. of the Crimea, another on Ctipe Eskiforos or Zarklian, the third on the western coast Tendra Island, and the fourth on Cape Fontane, to the southward of Odessa. The tower of BaUUctavOf as shown in page 200, is no longer tabled.

The Lighthouse of Cape Khehsonese or Kke&son, which marks the South side of the entrance of the port of Sevastopol, is described in vol. ii., page 201. It exhibits a red light, at 180 feet above the seat wbidi it eclipeed fin one in evenrlbvi nimtla.

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COAST OF srRtA«

On Catb EnnfOBOi, {Page 203) is a tower exhibiUiig a brilliant fixed liglu : seen at the distatictt of 17 miln*

At 24 miles from the northern extremity of Tbndra, (pMge 904) a moMng light, at

92 i feet above the level of the sea. The light, gradually increasing, appears in full lustrt

once in a minute and 20 seconds, md may be seen in clear weather, when 16 miles off.

The Light-tower on Cape I omame, 6| miles southward (torn Odessa, shows a briUiant find light, as described in page 199, at S03 feet above the tea, aod seen at mote fhao sis leagues off.

The S.E. COAST of the Crimea is dcstifnte of Light-houses until we arrive nt Cape Takli, on the western side of the entrance of the Strait of Kertche, which is now distin- guished by a tower, showing a fixed red light. {Page 209.)

YaiiiKAUEH, on the westm side of the nortbeni Stoait of Kertcbe {Page 210) : a toiver, with brilliant fixed light, seen from the Sea of Aaor, 18 oiiiei off.

SEA of AZOV. - On Cape Bielosarai, upon the north coast, about 10 miles to the S.W. of Marioupol, a tower,with fixed light, visible at the distance of 16 miles. {Page 215.)

We now resume the Southkev Ck>AST of Abia Mivor, eastwaid of the Golf of Symt, which has been described in page xiv.

The Coasts of Anadoli and Katiamania have been so well and "^o fully described by Captain Beaufort as to require no further addition. That survey terminated with the entrance of the Gulf of Iskenderooo, as noticed in page 349, and on this gulf, with fbe coast southward, we have now to add the infermatioo which follows : -

ISKENDFJIOON, &c. - ii. page 254.) H.M.S. Rainbow, on shaping a direct course from the Klielidonian Isles (longitude SO** 26^ to Cape Anamour, in the summer of 1833, appeared to be set one mile an hour to the eastwaid by the current, contrary to the direction which it generally takes, as noticed in the Directory. This preceded a strong breeze from west, which came on in the same afternoon, and contimierl the greater part of the night. This breeze^ besides advancing the ship rapidly, drove oti the dense haze which Gaptam Beanfbrt has described (page 335) as prevaiung at this sMSon, so as to hide the land, and limit the view within a very short distance. The heat is extremely Oppressive in such a state of the atmosphere, and every one felt rev iv ed by the change.

On passing the point Lissan el Kahpeli and the river next eastward, at 7 or 8 miles, the current was ^nd setting to the west at the rate of between two and three knots. Hereabout, in every nook of land in which small craft cottld fiod shelter,'wood was loading, probably for Syria or Egypt. At sea the wind blew strong, and the weather was very unsettled.

Opposite to the Bay of Iskenderoon the wind blew strong from W.S.VV., and sent in such a swell as caused the water to break over the shoal parts near the shore, but the anchor was let go m 14| Ihtboms t - at three cables' length nearer the town, ate 13 and 13^ fathoms, on a spot almost sheltered from the swell by the western point of the bay. The ground is good in every part, and merchant.vessels may anchor near the shore in 7 or 8 fathoms. The water in said to be, in generd, smooth, ^and favomble fi>r vessels to receive and disduuge their cargoes.

The bay is open from W.S.W. to N.E. ; but in the summer the sea^bpseaes which come from S.W. and N.W. are said seldom to blow home. The winds most to be apprehended are the gales from the N J5., and the gusts firom the mountains ; but these are represented as rarely occnrring before the commeocement of the winter, and in the early spring. This

place was formerly much frequented by shipping, and has been disused only on account of the insalubrity of its atmosphere and the oppressive heats of summer, but the atmosphere is expected to be much improved by the drainage of its surrounding swamp, and the health of the inhabitants likewise, by their having comparatively pure, itistead of stagnant water : benefits which tire owing to the skill and perseverance of Mr. Martinelli, the igcnt of the mercantile houses of Aleppo and Bagdad, the only European, who, iu 1833, was residing at Iskcodeiooih The townf still in t uias, stands on a small patch of sand close to the

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Ibeacb, at Um N.E. corner of ft nramp^ eitending oMriy a mile front die Umn to llie lottlb' ami nthev mora toward Ae Wcsl mid S*W. Nnmber of inhabitanti, abont SOO.

Tf, says the captain, Sir John Franklin, IsVenderoon can be rendered comparatively healthy, as it is acknowledged to be the safest bay for ships on the coast of Syria, it will probably again become the place at which the merchandize of Aleppo will be landed and shipped. The bay has not been altogether deserted by nrierchant vessels since Mr. Marti- nelii has resided here. Seven English vessels from London and Liverpool and tw o French Irom Marseille, have discharged their cai|;oes. T)w imported goods are forwarded to Aleppo and Bagdad on eemeU. A eaiavan of aeventy camels was dispatched with Bngtiah merchandize while we were at Iskenderoon, which had been purchased by fourteen mer- chants of Aleyipo, who infendM sending the ^ater part of it as far as Bagdad. Mr. Martinelli, wuiun 14 months, the lime of his r^dence, liad despatched a thousand laden cameb into the interior. The caiavan takes five days to reach Aleppo, which is nbout 36 hours of a traveller's ordinary rate. The British vrs'-els bring manufactured goods, copperas, indigo, cochineal, and pep|)er, and receive iu return cotton, wool, gall-nuts, dyes, and spices, and occastonally a connderable quantity of gold and titvtr, the gold in bars and silver in masses. - {Nautk^ Magaxmef January, 163d.)

Longitude of the anchorage, Stfi 18' 38" : diffeience in time between this spot and the

Arab's tower, Rhodes, Oh. 3im. 55|8. But, assuming the Arab's tower, as we give it, in not 33« Iff 38*, as in the Nautical Maguine. Variation of the compa&t, 8^ 40' W.

Another description states that the Golf of Iskenderoon is nearly surrounded by mountains,

bounded on the south by M. Rhosus, which attains an average height of 5000 feet, and terminates rather abruptly in the Gibel KheterU: ftnd Rat Khyn-ntr. At the northern foot of the Uhodus are an antiect aqueduct and many rums. - Journal qf the R. Geographical Societiff Vol. *iii.. p. 185.

BAY of OllONTES. - (Vol. ii. page 254.) This bay, a slender indent of the coast, in the Pashalik of Aleppo, ha^i been described by Mr. D. H. Senhouse, R.N., from whom we learn that the bottom of the bay is a sitraight line of sandy beach, 10 miles in length : at the north end it forms an elbow with Cape Khynzir, and at the south part, before which is the most water, is another elbow, the coast trending in a 80uth«westerly direction, and the beach thence S. by E. Excepting off this bea< li, and in a r tve within Ra$ei JBoieil, the southern extremity of the bay, the coast is every whert >ujep-iu.*

The sound mgs ofi the mouth of the river are from 3 iathoms, at about two cables' out, to 5, 7, 8, 14, and 18 frthoms: thus eilendtng about a mile from the beach, beyond which the depth abruptly increases, and no bottom is to be found at the depth of 100 fathoms : along the whole extent of the beach the soundings are n^rly the same, the deptiis above- mentioned running in regular lines, parallel to the shore.

The anchorage is quite exposed to the westward, ftom which quarter it Mows in the

greater part of the year, and in winter with great violence, which is shown by the height at which the water-murk has beeti left. These gales bring in a heavy swell, which, from the shelf-like nature of the bottom is rendered tumbling and uneasy. The hull of a fine Egyptian brig lay atmnded on shore, having been caught in one of them two wiattrs before.

The best aocboiage appears to be about three-quarters of a mile off the river, as the cur- rent from it lessens the strain on the rnbles, and as its rfteci does not extend more than six inches beneath the surface, the sea by it is not rendered more turbulent there than in any other part of the coast; but, as it wouhl also take a ship over her aochom wlwn the wind is not in, it will be better to moor.

At the mouth of the river is a bar, on which the general depth is not more than three feet, and a surf breakii over it, which it i.s often impossible to pass. The water from the river is good and fit for use. The river empties itself by one mouth, Jess tlian half way from the south end of the beach, and two miles to the southward of a mausoleam, which will always

* The southern horn of the Bay trends inward E. by N., about seven miles, to the beach. Near Hs outer extremity is a break or fissure called Kasab, and three miles nearer to tl>e main land another, rather lai-ger. Kara Mayor, which has good anchorage off it, close to the shore. The present estuary of tli-- Oiunte^ is four miles N. by W. i W. from the foot of Mount Cassius. What is called the custom-house stands £. by S. about a mile Urom the bar, and the antient port of Antioch is about a mile Mt^g^Ctk Ckum^ t Jmmat ^&mIL Geeg, Society, Vd, viii.,|Mv» 229.

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be a good mark, as it is constantly kept whitewashed by the inhabitants. There are several

vilhf^es in the valley of the Orontes, the principul of which h Sonodiah, (described in page 264,) afid from these slock may o€Cds>iuualiy be had, but bullocks are siiiall aiid scarce.

There can be no difficulty in making the anchorage. The high and remarkable land in Its immediate neighbourhood, Motmt Cassiut (otherwise Gibel Okrab or Bald Jl0Kiif)oD tlie s<'iii!i side, rises to the height of 5620 feet, and terminating in a sharp peak, can never be uiisuken ; toward the top it is grey and bare of trees, from which it derives its name. Mount Khynsyr is a^so ramarkable land, and may be seeo afar off.

The coast southward, between RmcI Bateit (above-mentioned) and Latakia is likewise

well marked. The point Rasel Baseil is low; more iliin half way to Latakia is along white cliff, which shows well: a little to the northward of this is a htgli bluff, of a dark red colour ; about a mile to the southward of Kasel Baseit is a remarkable table mount ; and a little to the southward of this, again, is another of a omioal shape ; neither of these is very !;]>fi, Imt, rising immediately from the «en, they are remarkable. The last-men- tioned is the higher of the two. There is a bay between the white cliffs and north pomt of Latakia^ bnt the water is deep. - Nmiikal imrgajriit^ December, 1835.

LATARTA or LADIKTBH.-^Vol. II. page 255.) The Roadstead of Latakia is

formed on the North by a very low and dangerous spit of sand, having from 3 to 12 feet over It, and on the South by the headland named Cape Ziarett to the N.E. (not S.£.) of which is the town. The shoal on the north side should not be approached without the utmost caution, as it cannot be distinguished at night, and the leaa, on advancing, is not to be depended on.

Sir John Franklin says thnt, on approacking Latakia from the N.W., the first indi- cation of it is some wooded land, which appear:* like an liiland, at the distance of 12 or 14 miles. The mosque and its lofty minarets, built on the summit of ftis high land, are next seen ; then some other minarets ; and at length the lower land rises to the view, which terminates at Cape Ziaret. The old castle and the magazines at the scala or landing place of the inner harbour arc just then visible, to which the coutse may be directed if you have clearly made out the low sandy point, and are at the distance of Uiree or four miles from it. The Rn'mhovo passed this point at the latter distance, and, when it bore N.E„ gained soundings in 17 fathoms, and found the water to decrease gradually on advancing. The ship andiored in 12| fatiboms, with Cape Ziaret bearing S. 43° E., the old castle at the entrance of the inner harbour S. 52^^ E., the low sandy point N. 8° 20' W. ; the extremities of distant land to the South S. 7° 40' VV. : and to the North, Cape Possidi N. lo° 31' E, ; the minaret at the Scala S. 63*^ E. j the minaret on the large mosque on the hill S. 74° £. Distance from the landing place in the inner harbour 3| miles ; from the low sandy point 31 miles ; and two miles from the nearest shore. This anchorn^e is compV tply exposed to the winds from South to N.W. by the West, and consequently to the sea-breezes, which invariably throw in a heavy swell.

In the situation above described a ship would have sufficient room to cast either wajt and make sail even in a gale to which she could cany canvas } but the anchorage seems

very wild if not unsafe.

The Inner harbour is protected by piers and piles of stones, and is a safe plare for vessels drawing 12 or 13 feet of water. When the swell is almost constant outside, such vessels must often have to wait for an opportunity to get eidier in or out.

LaUMa is a walled town, with about 8000 inhabitanUi, including the residents at the

Scala. The Christians amount to about 1600. It is not a good place for supplies of any kind for ships, but beef, mutton, and poultry, may be procured, at a h.\^\\ price.

In sailing along the coast to the southward, the town appeared more distinctly from that direction, and at a greater distance, than from the N.W. Hence, no doubt originated the error as to position. The Latitude of the Rainbow's anchcrage, given as 36* 46', does

not, we apprehend, exceed 31'.

Although Latakia has not become the seaport of Aleppo, Iskenderoon being preferred, several vessels, English and others, have brought hither general cargoes to be conveyed by canals, See., to Aleppo, a route of five days. /

On the Rojafow's proceeding southwaid, the Caade of M arkab, in tat. 35^ 0', and the town and fortress of Tortosa in 34** 50 J' were seen.

Mr. Senhouae has notioed that the Jittle Bay of Latakia^ formed by two low points,

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about 3| miles apart, is better than a mile and a half in depth ; though expoeed to the westward| he snys the ground is o-ood, (clayey sand) the sonndinE^s rec^ular and clean all over: between the points 12 and 11 fathoms, gradually shoaling lo d fathoms at about 300 yards from the botiom of the bay : towaid dmer point the wmndingB an not ao deep, bat they lessen paioally.

Water is not to be obtained here without some difficulty: the only way seem? to be by rolling it in casks from a fountain at the Madna in the por^ which iscapable of holding and giv mg good atelterto eight or nine small vessds, not drawing more than 11 or 12 ftet : it has 4 fathoms at the entianoey but on one side, on which stands the old castle, are some large blocks, which have ftllen frooi that building $ all the beach is sandy, and convoiient for liauling the scin.

Caution on approaching toward night is parHcuiarlv requisite ; for tiie points being iow and backed by high gronnd, dieir eiistence is ooocealed until within a short dislanco from

BE^ ROT^T. - The description of Beyrout, a-? pvf>n m vol. ii. pages 257, 8, is, of course, to be understood as it existed some years anterior to tlie late hostiliti^. The memorable nttaok of the allied forces, in the month of September, 1840« which cansed its partial destraction, has been admiiably described by an eye-witness,* who adds as Ibllowa

^ The harbour of Beyrout is formed by a range of bold mountains ; the Anti-Lebanon range rising about a mile from tin sh -^re, and running in a crescent from N.E. to West. The area from the sea-shore to the base of the mountains is covered with rich plantations of orange, lemon, mulberry, olive, and palm, trees ; and it looks like one large and highly^ cultivated garden, thickly studded wiUi villas and hamlets, varied here and there by the snowy belfry of a convent, or one of those solitary minaretted tombs of Sheiks which form such a sombre feature in Eastern scenery. The town itself lies at the southern eztxemiiy of this harbour, and, seen fiom a little distance, embedded in deep verdnrss, has a very picturesque effect. As a place of defence, however, you might as well think of defending JBroadstairs from the Channel fleet as Beyrout from a single ship of the Ihae. It possesses, at the same time, an amazingly strong fortress, built, like so many of the sea towns of the Levant, up an acclivity, the summit of which is unoccupied. The range of hills M too distant to be available for the defences of the town^ so that it lies compleiely exposed. Such is Beyrout."

H. M. S. Rainbow in 1833 came to an anchorage in front of the town, in 13 ^thorns, at about a quarter of a mile firoro the landing place, but found the ground to be rocky

and covered with long weeds, therefore bad for holding. In veering cable the sliip passed over a ledge of rocks, having only 10 fathoms over it, while the anchor and ship were lying in 12 fathoms. The cable became entangled with this ridge, and the ship, after the first day, never rode at the whole scope of the cable.

The breeze set in strongly from the N.N.W., and brought sudi a heavy swell soon after

the ship anchored that she could not change, her position. The better anchorage would have been half a mile to the S. W., in 15 or 17 fathoms, with the castle at the landing place bearing S.S.E. or 8.E. by S. with the town not entirely open. After the autumnal: equinox,

ships prefer going into St. George's Bay, where there is better anchorage. The Bay of Beyrout is, at all times exposed to winds from North to W.S.W., but shelter from S.W. winds may be found in St. George's Bay, and in either of the two bays from S.E. which blows off the land. There were several batteries fronting the sea, with a few guns mounted, tind two or three fortified towers faring; inlaTid frnm the town. The number ofiuhabitanlS Stated, only 8000 ; Christians and Turics nearly equ il, atid a few Jews.

From the Rainbow's anchor^e the outer rocks lying off the point of St. George's Bay the higliest part ofMount Lebanon N. 85<» W. or nearly E. i N. JPfoirl. Mag, Jlfay» 1835*

it ha? been noticed that, ** As the autumnal equinox approaches, the coasts of Et^yi't ana Syria become dangerous lee-shores, which forbid tlie proximity of a blockading force for weeks tc^ether. Violent gales set in, then die away for a few days, and again return vrilh

- A comspondnit «f the * Monung Chiwdcte/

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force sufficient to render it prudent for vessels, however sea-worthy, to seek safety else> whm, and if possible fo retreat to the anchorage of VoorU, Mailt, or lome other harbour

for the winter. Tliis intermittent senson of storm anr? "innshine continues UBtil (he month of March, aad impedes all hostile operations by sea on the several coa^

The following Table of the positioDS of points on the coast of Algier, fee. is given from the *- Description Nautique de$ C&tet de FAlgerie, hy Captain A. Berard, with the fiotes of M. de Tessan; Paris, 1837 j and may be comparcKl with the Table which follows, from former authorities.

The Surveys of Captain Berard, made by order of the French government, comprise the coast fiom the Zaffarme Islands, in 4** 26' W. to Cape Serrat, in 9° 12' E. The charts,

truely said to he admirably expruterl, consist of a crp^pral chart in two sheets, five special charts, and six plans of islands and anchorages; as siiown in a notice given in the Journal of the R. Geographical Society, Vol. vii., pages 409, 10.

In attowing for die difference of meridiam, we assume the Royal observatoiy at Pans, as lately settled, in r* 40' Stf £i of Gieenwich.

Latitude N. Longitude W.

Zaflhriuesor Z^hianldesj ranunit of the middle isle,... 8d 11 0 .. 2 2.3 48

Islet A reschquol; highest point to fhe north - 35 19 37 .. 1 28 37

Latitude N. Longitude B.

The islet Bariusbel to the we«i of Kas el Amusch 36 38 57 . . 2 21 17

Bougia or Bajeya ; Mount Qoureya, near Cape Carbon .. . 36 46 34 5 4 58

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XXX TliS rHARONOlAlvT AND

f^ArpllS Shnal Ar Rsaf

The TIABEEnA, properly IIabibas, mentioned in

to be

elevated rocky islets, six miles lo the N.W. of Cape Stgale. They are surrounded by a great number of iDsulated rocks, extending in an E.N. E. and W.S.W. direction. The brger isle is that to the S.W., and the rocks in that direction extend from it to the distance

of a mile. Occasional shelter may be found to the S.E. of the larger isle, where the depths are from 9 to 14 icithoms, bottom of gravel, but the ground, in general, is rocky and bad.

MuscLB Rocks. - At a mile and a half to the N.N.E. of Cape Sigale are tliree steep and low rockty lying off the middle of a sandy bay to the eestwara of Uie cape. They appeer black, being bwdeied and coveied with muscles.

Plane Isle. - Opposite to the middle of the large bay (Aguadas) formed by the coast between Cape Lindles and Cape Falcon, and at three miles to the north-eastward of the former, is the low and flat islet bearing the name of Pltme Jilr. It has three small sum- raits of nearly eaual height, is bordeied with rocks, but boats occasionally find shelter between them. The islet serves as a refuge for sparrow-hawks, which nestle and breed here. The western part of the land of Cape Falcon, which is low, bears hence £.S.£.

On the eesfem part of Cape Falcon, which is at a mile and a quarter firom the western point of the same, is a hummock, considerably higlier than the Innd about it, by which it may be known. The land between forms a slender cove. From Cape Falcon to the north point of the Bay of Oran lb« beaiipg and distance are S.E. ^ £. 5 miles ; and hence to the extremity of am^K^^ the distanee is only half a mile.

BAY of ORAN. - Page 187.) A New Lighthoi78K has been established on the

Fort of Mers-el-Kebir, the elevation of which is 118 feet, and the light may be seen to the distance of nearly tive leagues. It is furnished with eclipsers, but the eclipses do not appear toUd within the distance of between one and two l^gues. The high land to the

westward of it is 1040 feet in height above the level of the =rri. At the bottom of the Bay, three miles to the south-eastward of Mers-el-Kebir, is the town of Oran or Wajiaran.

Oran, once large and populous, is now inconsiderable atxl inhabited by a few thousand persons. It stands partly on the sea shore, at the moudi of a spacious .ravine, and partly on two table lands lying on either side of die ravine. The appearance of it is veiy pleasant; the streets wide and straitrht, and comparatively cheerful. The ravine divides the upper town into two portions, which is connected by a pretty stone bridge of Spanish construction. The stream is p<»enAiaI, and strong enough to drive several mills. A handsomer valley than this, between two parts of a town, can hardly be imagined. On each side of the stream are terraced or sloping gardens, ricli with fruits and flowers, and resounding with aong-biids, among the peach, almond, and orange, trees around.

The Castle of Santa Cruz, on the summit of Mount Ramerah, is 1750 feet above the level of the sea, on the nearest top of the range of hills that sweep to Mers-el-Rebir, at which point there areeqoalty magnifio Spanish fortifications, together with the minarets of

several mosques, Ike.

The Spaniards resigned Oran to the Moors in 1791, after they had held it more than a hundred years, and had spent millions sterling of money to render it imprM;nable. But

the earthquake of 1790, in one fatal night, buried thousands of the inhabitants under the ruins of their hou^ies, and though the forts were not irreparably shaken, the Spaniards consigned Oran aud its province by treaty to the Dey of Algiers.

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The new Kaaebft or caetle, which it on the weiteni «de, hee handsome timparts,

batteries commanding the sea and the town, a deep ditch with a coiintpr^carp, and the remains of a covered way. Here are barracks for dOOinfanti^ and 200 cavalry. lo all the courts then are foaDtains and jet8-d*eaa. (Mt, Campbell^ *< Letienfrom the South,**

Merchant-vessels, in die fine season, anchor before Oran in 7, 6, and 35, fathoms, sandy bottom : with N.E. winds they are incommoded by the swell, but the anchorage is pro- tected from West and N.W, winds by the point of tiie Fort Lamouna^ formed by land which rises thence abruptly toward the interior, and on which stand the forts of S. Gregorio and Sta. Cru^ : almost inaccessible and near the sea.* The highest of these, (Sta. Cruz) which may be regarded as almost impregnable, may be seen at a great distance. Tiie landing place is Iwtween Fort Lamouna and the city ; but landing is hardly practicable doring fresh winds fioin the N*E.» ex'en in the line season.

Point Canastaif the N.E. point of the Bay of Oran, bears from the extrennty of Mers-el- Kebir East (by comp.) seven miles. Inland, at three miles true East from this point, is the summit of tiie Moutttai» qf Lions or of St. At^ustin, which rises to the height of 2017 feet above the level of the sea.

Cape Aoitja or Avvja, frequently described as Cape Ferrat, lies at the distance of seven

miles N.E. ^ E. from Point Canastel, and may be readily known by its figure and height. The coast between forms a bay, frequented only by the coasters, but there is anchorage, in 12 fathoms, saudy ground, off the foot of the i^iouii' Mountain, which, from its height and situation is veiy usefol as a land-maik on making tiie coast

The cape Abuja is formed by a pile of steep and barren rocks, which terminate in a

pointed summit. At a milr tn the eastward from its extremity, and a cable's length from shore, is a pyramidal rock, called by Europeans the Needk, and by the natives Seba Pharwrn, or Thumb of Pharaoh : it h 177 feet in height ; at a distance looks like a church

steeple or a sail, and has several small rocks at its base. The ridge of monntainous land,

trending" from the cape, south-eastward, rises to the height of 2050 feet.

Cape Ferrat, (proper,) a high, sleep, and rocky headland, is four miles eastward of the Needle ; and Cape Carbon is two miles true East from Cape Ferrat : it is distinguished by a hummock, and several insulated rocks at its base. Frum Cape Carbon to a little isIe^ which marks the N.W. extremity of the Bay of Arzeu, t!ie bearing and distance are S.S.E. i E. 3^ miles : and, at less than a mile to the S.S.W . of the islet is the Fort Point af Aneu, opposite to which and some magasines, hdf a mile more to the west, is the best anchoiage, having from 4 to 8 bthoni8» giadnally decreasing to the shore.

Between tl * i^l< t above mentioned and the Fort Point there are numerous broken rocks along shore. Tliere is also a rock, 7 feet iindrr water, at the distance of a cable's length E. by N. trom the islet of Arzeu, which requires caution ; and another, partly above water, extending to the same distance soothocastward irom the Fort Point.

ARZEU. - (Poge 188.) Arzeu, the Arscmria of the Koaiaiis, is now asmaii and miserable village. A few new houses have been built by the French settlers, two of which supply the military with wiiic and brandy. The port is frequently visited by European shipping, as a place of retreat in winter and autumn. The Bay offers excellent anchorage in all seasons for ordinaiymerchant>vessels,and in genend for all under the size of frigates, near the shore, and large ships may anchor farther out in from 5 to 7 and 8 fathoms, bottom of sand, but are safe in fine weather only, being here exposed to the easterly and N.£. wiodSf which produce a great swell.

Un coming in, the soundings are regular, and shoalen gradually toward the shore. The greater part of the Bay on the west is hounded by a sandy beach, with large clots of sea- weed, which may be mistaken for rocks. At the bottom of the B iy is a river, (Hahrak) discharging itself into the sea, and which receives several tributary streams: one of them is the Wed-el-Hamam, or River of Baths, so called from a warm spring in the neighbonrhood.

Corn in considerable quantities, with cattle, wax, and oil, are the exports from Arzeu. The country here appears fertile, and there are many trees on the coast, so that both wood and water may be obtained*

* The two forts, bearing 8.W. by S., form an excdtent mark for entering.

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Magnetic Bearings, and the Distances, ot the Principal Points between Arzeu and Cab& Matifou» according to the late Survey.

Magnetic, MOtM,

Fort Point of Arzeu to Point Missigran ---- E. §S. - IT

Point Mostaganem or Mostagm East - 19

Point Schelef E. J N. - 23

Point Schelef to Gibel Iddis or Cape Ivi N.E.by E.iE. - 5

Cape Ivi to Point Bane, or Low Poiot E.N.E. ^B, - 8

Point Baaae to Cape Hagmiss E. by N. - 18

Cape Hagmiss to Colombi or Palomas Isle E. fN. - 14)

Coiombi Isle to Cape Nakkous or Tenez East ~ 22

Cape Nakkous to Ras Wahiyah - E.8.B. i E. - 14

Ras Wahryah to Point Zarzel or Scharchel - E. by S. - 27

Point Zaizel to Ras el Aniusch or Uamous - £. f S. 91

Has el Amusch to Sidy Feruche - East - 9S

Ras Akkonadda to Point Pescada or Cape Caxiiie E.S.E. J E. - 5

Point Pescada to Cape Maiifou E.S.E. - 10

CAPE MISSIGRAN may be considered as the outer or N.E. point of the Bay of Arxea. At 2| miles ftom it, inlaiid, eastward flronti the point, is the little town of Mosta-

ganem, standing on the heights at a mile and a half from the sea, upon the borders of a ravine, nt ilie bottom of which i« a rivulet. It is defended by a fort, which is a good

land-ijiark from the offing.

The Anchorage of Mostaganan is more to ^ north. .Tb» cape of the same name

Proceeding northward we come to the high lands and river of Scheie/ or ChelUf. The heights, which rise to the height of 740 feet, terminate with Point Schelef, in lat. 36° 4'. The mouth of the river is a mile to the southward of this point, and a ^oal bar extends from it nearly two miles to the north. westwaitl. At abont iwo-thiide of a rrile ontward

a portion of it is frequently dry at low water. The Schelef is the most consifkrable river of Algeria, both from its length, depth, and breadth. It bisects high mountainous land, and its valley may be readily known from the offing by those approaching from the west.

The next projecting point, to the north-eastward from Pmnt Schelef, is Cape iv^ hani^ several rocks at its base, and distinguished only by its rising from the lower land about it* The Point Basse (Low Point) is formed by rocks nearly even with the water.

CAPE HAGMISS, in latitude 19', lies between two rivers at the bottom of valleys, which may be plainly seen. At tiie mouih of the northern one is tiie village of Hagmiss^ whence com is at times exported. On the rigfet of the second, upon tiie top of the clifi; is a marabout, which may be seen at a great distance. The most projecting part cf tin cape is a steep red cliff, which appears bright when the sun shines upon it, or from 3 ». m. till the evening. The other part of this coast seems dreary, being uncultivated, and desti- tute both of cattle and inhabitants.

The islet Colombi or Palomas (Pigeon Isle) lies half a mile off the point called Cnpe GiktOf in latitude 36° 26'. It is 85 feet high above the sea, half a mile from shore, and takes its name from the great flights of pigeons wiiich exist upon it. Vessels of moderate draught may pass between the islec and the land in the depths of 3i to 4| fathoms.

CAPB NAKKOUS or Tenez is the meet remarkable cape of this coast ; it is formed

by a great mass of steep rocks, which extend three miles from West to East. The summit of the cape is 2099 feet above the level of the sea. As the cliffs advance farther into the sea than any other point of this coast, the cape may be leadily kmiwii.

The town or father village of TauM is about three miles to the S.W. of the cape, at the entrance of a river of the same name, and there are some rocks above water, near the shore; but there is shelter in the road before the town, from southerly, easterly, and E.N.E. winds, though quite exposed to all others. The best anchorage is in from 7 to Q fathoms, with a saddle hill bearing about 8.8.E.

Alter leaving Cape de Oat or the Ide Alboiao^ ships bound to Malta geneiaUy make

Cape Nakkous. On a southerly betrfaig it seems shaped, with ito perpendicular c\if&, SOineihinr; like a cock's-comb; but, on a S.E. bearing, it assumes a saddle shapje. From the hltle isle Cnlombi it bears nearly East, seven leagues. At about U miles to the east- waid of Colombi, near the water*t edge, b a leroaihable Muare yellow dilHlike a caade^ whidi appears to be bold-to : there is a small iosalated rock between it and Colombi.

The country hereabout has been noted for the production of corn, and the natives for their perfidious character. Tlie interior ridge of moantains, extending nearly true East and

West, are of great lieiglU, in one instance 3800 feet above the sea. Tliey arp frrrjiirntly covered with clouds, especially witli fresh easterly winds, but which are dispersed by those fiom the west. In several parts n^r the sea the land appears well cultivated.

At the distance of 25 miles to the eastward of Cape Tenez is a black rock, about two jrards above water, which is known to the coasters under the name of Aichak* Ills neariy a mile and a half from the nearest point of the shore, and particularly dangerous after sun- set to steam-vessels bound either eastward or westward. On passing at two miles without the rock you may see a white marabout which stands on the opposite cUff, and to the left of t!ic latter is a conical hummock, which seems detached from the land» and appears likfi an islet. The mountains of the interior continue vety high.

The rock Aschak^ as formerly noticed, was seen by Lieut. T. Baldock, commanding H.M, steam-vessel Firefiyt, on the 22nd of August, 1832, and again on the 21sl of May, 1833* The islet seemed to be a cablets length across, covered with brushwood, having a sandy beach, but no appearance of shoal water about it. At abotltS^ cables on the OUtStde

of it a depth of 50 fathoms, and c l al bottom, were found.

ZERZAHAL, or ScuEB^cuEL, or Cuerchel. - (Page 189.) This port, situate in a small cove, is 17 miles to the eastward of the islet Aschak, It admits small vessels only. The town, supposed to be on the site of the antient Julia, is very old, and its buildings^ mostly of stone, are almost all surrounded by trees and gardens.

fiAS el AMUCHE. - fPage 189.) From the outer point of Zarzel the course and dis- tance to the cape Urn el Amw^e are nearly E. by S. [£. | N.'] 10 miles. The lands which form the latter are high, in a considerable extent, and one mountain, (Chenomh) detached by an extensive valley from the interior mountains, rises to the height of 2780 feet ; this, when seen from a distance, in an easterly direction, makes the cape appear Uke a peninsula. The country hereabout is inhabited, but the people are described as cruel and treacherous.

On the cottise above nwnttoned, and approadiii^ the cape, you pass the islet Batmckdt lying off the most advanced point of the coast : this is a rock, 65 feet in height, with some vegetation upon it, at about a cable's length from (!ip shore, and encircled with rocks. Ras el Amuche is frequently covered with clouds, particularly during easterly winds, which give it a gloomy aspect. During the floe season it is almost always enveloped in fog*

To the eattward of Ra$ el Anmche the land, declining in height, forms a bay, whidi affords good shelter from westerly winds, but is open to the nortli and east At about eight miles to the S.E.ward of the cape, and two miles within the shore, is a hill, with an o\)tuse summit, upon which is a small structure in the form of a pyramid, at the height of nearly 1000 feet above die sea ; this is an antient monument, called in the eountiv el KtAer Rotneah, (the Cliristian tomb,) held in great respect by the Arabs. It Is an ooject easily recognized, in a situation well determined.* From Ras el Amuche the peninsula of Sidy Feruche bears E. ^ N. (by compass) eight leagues. The Rai Akkonadda of the charts is the JRm AsnOa of the late survey, and this poin^ about which are several rock^ is the

* It seems that the village Te/essad, to the S.E. of Ras el Amuche, is no more. A few ruios now mark the spot.

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wHtCfii extmni^ of the iMdland ctCmitf the dmted point of whkh is 8| milM^moio

to the cast.

AT.GIYAI.- (Page 189.) The Biy of Alpier, hetvceen the port and Cnpo Matifou, is eight miles in breadth. Since the possession of the port by the French colonists it is said to be considerably improved ; and from November, 1834» an intennitftRit light has been

substituted for the old fixed light on the mole ; the flashes, which may be seen at a distance of five leagues, disappear rrgularly evpry half minute, but the feinter lier^t does not entirely disappear within a less distance tiian 2^ leagues. Elevation^ ISl feet, raruition \9° 2o' W.

Mr. Campdbll, in his ' Letters from the South/ 1836, Uju, ** The nnniMont villas in the

vicinity of Algior, from their beauty and high position, give a raagnificent appearance to this portiou of the ouast. i he view of the city is iuteresting. It forms a triangk on the side of a hill, the base of which is close to the sea, while the apex is crowned by the Kasabah or citadel, which was the palace of the In^t Dev. The Emperor's fort, built by Ch;ir]»>s V., commands the whole town. The terraced aud square houses, which rise, set'Ujiuyly condensed close behind one another, are, like the forts and city walls, all washed with lime and dazzling as snow. These objects-, together with the pier and lighthouse, tli'^ bnttcrics, liatd tipr <>vt>r tier, witli hundreds or great caonun, give au imposing aspect to the city, that beeuis tu jaiiUty lU old appeliatiou of * Atffkr iht Wtarme,* bnt the streets are nanow and very dismal.

*' T^y the census in 1833 the inhabitants were enumerated a< MR-jO Moors j 1874 negroes; 59i9 Jews i 2186 French (ezdudiog soldien«); and 1895 other foreigners. Total 23,753. Of the Turkish arittocracy not n raek is left behind. The Ke^les are the aborigine highlanden of the country, and they era distinguished by their superior form and flgufe**'

The city is said to stnnd on the site of the Ico$ium of the Romans. Tts present expotis consist principally in wheat, barley, hides, wax, oil, oslricli feathers, and wool.

I'he Bay presents no secure anchorage in winter, for then the winds send in a heavy swell : bat in the fine weather of summer, vessels may anchor as convenient at a mile or a

mile and a half from shore, where tlie depths are from 14 to 22 or 26 fathoms, with oazy bottom. It will be prudent to use chain cables, as herrpen may be injured by lost anchors. In 22 fathoms, large ships may anchor with the Lighi-iuwer bearing N.W. } N. ; Uie fort Babazoune W. S. ; the fort I'Empereur W. i N. ; and a square house, seen over tfie bottom of the Bay, S.E. by £. ^ £. The fort Babazoune is lemailcabl^ being constiuoted on a rock near the sea.

There is also a good anchorage on the N.£. side of the bayt in 9t 11, and 13, fathoms, bottom of sand and oaze, where vessels may find good shelter firom East and N.E. winds.

CAPE MATIFOU.^rPage 191.) On die meridian of Cape Matilbu, at the distance '

of two miles from shore, is a rocky flat, of about five fathoms, one quarter of a mile in extent t but between it and the shore the depths are from 25 to 38 fathoms. At two miles to ilie south-eastward from the above, and nearly on the parallel of the cape, is a ^rouuc of small dark-coloured rocks, named Sandja, whicn reach to a short distance from the shore. The most lemarkable is about 28 feet high, above water, and at times appears like a sail.

At two miles trtic Kast from the Sandja is an insulated black rock, of a round form, and about fifteen ftct above \rater. It is steep-to, and the water around it is deep.

At three miles farther to the S.E. and half a mile from shores is another rocky groupe, named A^Uiy the highest parts of which are abont 88 feet above water. The country boats fiequently take shelter here. The space between Ae rocks and shore is fi«e from

According to the late survey f the magnetic bearings and distances between Cs^pe Matifou and Cape Carbon are as follow.

Cape Matifou to Cape Bingut - - £. f S. 34 miles. Cape Tcdeles to Cape CoHm l:n - . E.S.E. } E. 14 Cape SigU to Cape Carbon S.£.i£. 17

The mountain ScIifii^Q miles to tlic S.E. of Cape Bingut, rises, like a volcano, to the height of 2755 feet above the level of the sea ; that of Beni-Abd-Allahf four miles south from Cape Tedeles, rises to 3018 feetj that of Azefoutif 5 miles to the S.W. of Cape Corbelin, to 4460 feet; and that of Bem-Chout^, 9 miles S. by E. ftom Cape Sigli, to 4137 feet.

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Tht wmnils of the giwid moge^ 6 or 7 miles mmilMMCmad of lira Buy of Boogia, liit to a greater ho^t; even to 6800 feet.

On the const, at the distance of a mile eastward of Cape Tedclcs, is a dangerous reef extending to the shore, and there is another, at 5 mil^ to the westward uf Cape (Jorbelin, with rocks above water to a mile from the coast. Within Cape Carbon, on the south, is the little town of Biyqr**

The N.E. part of Cq>e Carbon ii composed of a great mass of bare rocks ; the mmmit, Mount Gourcyoy surmounted by a marabout, is 2870 feet above the level of the sea. In certain positions to Uie N.W. and S.£. the mount appears like a sugar<loaf, detached from the main land. The «Ktremitf of the cape is petfoiated by the sea, in a north and south diiectioD, and it is hence called M^uoA, or the Pierced Stone.

BUJEYA or ^vQ\k.^(Page 192.) Mr. Campbell, in bis * Letters from the South, eays that, On thf 9ih of January, 1B35, before day-light, we anchored off Bougiu, and early in the morniug i went ashore, as Ute steamer always rests liere for half a day, ou ita way between Algier and Bona. The harboor of this place h pietty spacioos ; but, like every -

other on the Algeriiie coast, it is insecure. The town itself lies on the slope of a hill cot.- siderably aljovc tlie level of the sea. Its few streets, for it is now a miserable place, are steep and lurtuous, but not so narrow as those of Algier. Poor as it is, it commands a glonotts view of land and water; and even a portion of its own rains is picturesque. But such is the grandeur of the surrounding mountain scenery that T drop my pen in despair of giving you any conception of it. The African higliUuids spruig up to the sight, not only with a sterner Doldness than tfiose of Britain, bnt they borrow colours from tiae sun unknown to our climate, and they are mantled in clouds of richer dye. The farthest-off summits looked, in their snow, like the turb uis of gigantic Moors, wliilst the nearer masses glowed in crimson and gold under the liglii of uiorning.

Bougia is at present little better than a mass of ruins, and among its liouses there are atill maika of the earaage that attended its last siege, in 1893.

" The town has still two forts to defend the harbour, and a diird on flie summit of a mountain behind it, which is 2011 feet above the level of the sea. At present, exclusive of tlie French garrison, it is supposed to contain about ."lOO persons onljr. Such is tlie condi- tkm of a place which, between four and five ceoturies ago was described by Leo Africanus as follows : - * Wonderful is the architecture of its houses, its temples, colleges, and palaces. Numerous are the professors of the arts j some of them are teachers of law ^ otliers of natural

" The native tribes in the territory, within the distance of 40 miles of Bougia, are 35 in number, and it is estimated that ttueir men capable of bearing arms aie 15,000, meetly

** The Algerines, for the sake of their navy, were obliged to purchase timber from Uie woody mountains uf this province, and to be their humble customers. The products uf the country are oil, soap, dried figs, and above all^ carpenteis' wood $ they also manofiuitare spades and plough-shares*"

The little isle RIansouriaii, near the shore, on the S.K. side of the Bay of Bujeya, affords shelter for small vessels. About Ce^ CawUlo, the nortb-eastexnmost extremity of the Bay, are severs! dangerous rocks.

The Sai.avavi>se, a shoal of 13 ieet wafier, lies with Cape C!a?aHo [Rat DSemOl heir, ing S.W. by W. i 4i milea, and Point Jijeli £kS. by £. five miles.

CAPE BOUGARONI [Seba-rous or Seven Capes. - (Page 192.) Under this name is comprehended a great mass of elevated land, 16 mile? in extent from West to East, and the summit of which, seven mil^ frum vliore, is ;io7o iect abuvu ttic level ul liie seu. The coast here is genenlly bold and steep-to.

The Hay of Kol.\h or Rollo, to the S.E. of Bougaroni, a£fords good shelter for small vessels, with N.W. and westerly winds, and may serve with a fast on shore, before the town, with nearly all winds. The ground holds well, but N.E. winds send in a great swell.

CAFE FEBiiO [Ras Hadeedy page 192,] is formed by a mass of elevated, bare, and senated, rocky land, bordered with rocks, above and under water. Two pitous or small peaks may be seen to the south, and appear as if insulated. The highest summit of the cape is 1574 feet above the sea. The distance from Cape Ferro to Cape Mavera, {lias el

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Humra] tiie N.W . extremity of the Bay of Bona, Is 29 miles, and in the interval are several rodcs near shore.

BONA. - ("Poffc 192.) Bona, as described by Mr. Campbell, is sitnate in a spacious bay, bounded on the west by Cape Guardia and on the east by Cape Rosa. The river Seibouze, joined toward the end of its course by tlie river Boojeomah, the ant. Armua, fells into the sea within this bay, as well as tiie Mafrag, a river rutlier less than the Seibouze, irluch diadiaigei hidf hatf'Way between Bona and Cape Ron.

The town is built at the bottom of what the Fiench call a mamdon, i. e. a nipple of land, the sides of which terminate in steep rocks along the shore ; the city is enclosed by walls about 60 feet in height, pretty tliick, but not backed with earth, and have the shape of a rectangle slightly inclined toward the valley of the Seibouze. This wall, though weak, in some parts, is still capable of a good defimce againrt the Arabs ; its total ciieomfieience is 3400 yards. The town has four gates ; one loading from the east to the harbour ; another, called the Arab gate, leading to Constantina, and two that face the citadel. The Kasabah, or citadel, with a wall of 700 yards in ciccttit, crowns a high hill to the south of the city : this wall is so high and so thick, and so backed hy the natural soil, that it would be difficult to make a breach in it ; it is ciipable of camaonading the roadstead and the mouth of the valley, and it entirely commands the town : its interior is very large, and contains a number

On i^tproaching the harbour ofBcnOf the shore presents a great and singular rock, to

which nature has given such a likeness to a lion couchant that you remark tlie resemblance before being told that this is called the Lion Rock. The ruins of the antient city are spread over a neck of land that lies between two small rivers, having their influx together into the sea. This place was visited by Sir Grenville Temple, in September, 1837, who obserfes that the town w 3 r^p<;trny d in 1832, but has been rebuilt; the streets have in several instances been widened and canied in straight lines. Many good houses have been coo-

From the cape or western point of the Bay of Bona, the magnetic bearing and

distance to Cape Rosa are E.S.E. 21 miles. Cape Rosa is the extremity of high !nnd, extending thence in a true South direction, and to the height of 10B2 feet. The cape itself, composed of perpendicular rocks, is 295 fieet in height, and exhibiting at top a few basha only. To the southward of the cape are two coves, wherein small vessels nequently take shelter, in on)^r to wait fpr a favorable wind ; but N.B. winds send in a very heavy sea.

CAPE CARTHAGE. (Page 198.) - A notice, dated Admiralty, 17th June, 1840,

states that the Tunisian Government have erected ;i lighthouse on Cape Carthage, which will be regularly lighted every night, with a hght revolving ouce in every three minutes.

CAPE BON. Ci*<'g^ 199.) - Under Cape Bon there is good anchorage, in 13^ fathoms, good holding ground, at a mile and a Inlf mm shore, with a remarkable rocky point, two miles S.E. of Cape Bon, bearing N.N.E. | £. one mile and a half distant ; a marabout, standinjr about two miles inland, from the west shore of the bay, W,8,W. ^ W., and the

south point of the bay south, about three miles,

TRIPOLI. - A general description of and directions for Tripoli are given in pages 201«^303 hereafter, and piloting directions for this port have since been given by CaptaiM the Hon. & Dmdtti and the ttm* .F. Greg^ from which we mme the following

U. M. S. Bclviderot Capt. Dundas, proceeded from the Archipelago to Tripoli on the ftth of July, 1832. On. the passage, as commonly found in this season, the winds were

commonly light and principally from the northward. On the 13th, in lat. 33' 30' and long. IS** .''O' having run about S.W. by W. before sun-et, high mountainous land was seen to the souiiiwaid, whicli is at some disiuuce wuiuu tiie 9past ; but die shore near Tripoli is low, and seldom seen more than twelve miles off.

In the evening the wind came round to the eastward, and the ship hauled more to the southward, sounding regularly on stranding in for the land. At midnight tacked offshore, and stood off and on in from 00 to 4U Daithoms, having indistinctly made out the coast by ipoon-lighu At day-break neatly calm, with a thick fog, which lasted till tOa,m, when

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the water liad shoalened to 30 fethoms, and the fog suddenly clearing off, with a breeze fiom the N.b., the town was discovered, bearing S.E. by S., about four miles off. Steered direcUy toward it and anchored m 16 fethoms to the northwaid of the town, as shown bv chart, with the round or French fort S. i E. beyond half a mile fiom shore. Afterward shifted farther out, ar,d anchored in 17 fathoms, with the same fort S * W and the easternmost of the iiarbour Rocks S.E. i E. This is the safer berth, but coromandera must be gttided by experience and the state of the weather, as there is no shelter. Here was found a strong current scttm- alon- shore to the westwaid ; and it was afterward found that the currents hereabout were very irregular and uncertain, according to the winds.

The winds upon the coast at this season are land and soa-breezes ; but once or twice during a month that the ship remained here, fresh northerly winds prevailpd with a dis agreeable swell. The land wind, which blows ftom thesoathward in the uiglit, commonly draws round to the westward toward day-light in the morning; and, after an interval of calm, the searbreeze sets in early in the day at N E., drawiner pndually round to East and E.S.E. in the afternoon, when it blows moderaieiy iresh uU sun-set. Fogs in the moroioir are not ancommpn«.

On another visit made by the BMkra in the commencement of October, same year.

the weather for the first ten days was fine, with the usual summer breezes ; but toward the middle of the month an evident change took place, preceded by several days' rain ; to this sncoeeded the constant N.W. and northerly gales which prevail upon the coast : and ooce in this month there was a very severe gale at N.E. The wind in the morning of the S5th (October) was moderate at West, and drew round, us is commonly the case, to NW. early in the day. In the afternoon it began to freslien, and toward evening it came more round to the northward, till at midnight it was blowing a strong gale at North. Before day-light next morning it sfiiftp I tn E.N.E., and backing afterward to N.E. by N* it blew a heavy and severe gale, with strong squalls and rain, which lasted two days. ' It then gradually moderated. This was almost the only instance of strong winds to the eastward of north.

In Nnvember the prevailing winds were moderate at West andN.W., varying sometimes off the laud to the S.W. during the night, and in the morning. Once or twice they had dry hot southerly and S.W. winds, which lasted the whole day. Toward the end of the month tbera were several Iresh N.W. and northerly breezes, with tain.

In OMmier the wbda were coostauil) between West and North, varymg occasionally,

in moderate weather, to tlie southward of west in the night, but blowing more fiequently in steady strong breezes at W . by N., with clear cold weather; on Other occasioiMlit blew in strong gales, with sc^ualls and ruin, at N.W. and N.N.W.

In January y (1833,) the winds were more moderate than in December. Frequent light winds off the land at night, and variable moderate breezes in the day ; but the usual V^st and N.W. winds were common in this month. In Februari/ N.W. and northerly winds were the most frequent j but, on the whole, the weather was moderate, OccafiiooaUy in die latter part of die mondi easterly breezes prevailed during the day.

In JIf arcA there were several strong gales from diilereni quarters of the compass. On the 2nd and 3rd of the month the wind blew strong at N.W. On the 5tfa there was a fresh l)Tpp7e at East, which moderated at night, and freshened again on the 6lh at E.S.E. when It blew in heavy squalls from that quarter, till the 7lh, covering the ship with sand and dust It then moderated and shifted to West On the 8th and 9th it blew a strong gale at N.W., and top-masta were consequently struck. Between the lOlh and IQth the winds were variable, with fine weather ; but, near the end of the month, strong winds from the westward occurred frequently, more tlian land-winds from the southward, and in the night shifted suddenly to West, ra hard squalls, with lain.

The month of AyrU wa^ generally a fine month, with variable winds. Northerly winds and easterly sea-breeies were common, and dry siroc winds severe! times occurred.

H, M. 5. Actaom, July 14 to August, 1833 i - f* In running ft>r Tripoli from the north- ward the Terhoona Mountains, which lie from 20 to 30 tnilc"^ S.E. of tlin fo\^^l, first became visible. Soon afterward the low line of coast to the eastward of Tripoli, well cultivated and thickly planted with dale trees ; to the westward, sandy and desert. This difference nay serve to point ont to a stranger the position of the town, which is not eaaly made out

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Captain Grey has said, " In standing in for the land at night, a ship should not approach neaicr than in 20 fiithoms, in order to avoid the Kaliusa iteefs (on the eastern side of the entrance,) which lie from a mile to a mtte and a half off ahoie> and extend 2i miles to the eastward from the Harbour Rocks.

** In working-up from the eastward, a good maric for keeping to the northward of these neb are the tower and tiees of Gargaseh, a viUege about loar miles to the westwatd of Tripoli, and standing alone in the Desert, kept open of the round fort,* standing on a detachtid rock under the north or sea-wall of the town. I have tacked with this mntk In 16 fathoms. This ancliorage lu ihe winter I should consider a very insecure one, as the N.W* winds must cause so heavy a sea as to make it dangeroua for a ship to lemain at anchor, and difficult to work off. Even during our stay at this season, in two instances witli very little wind, so much swell came in as to make communication willi Ute shore very dilieQlt. During the greater part of our stay we had regular land and sea bietiM, tfaie fattier generally uesb from East and E.N.E.; the land-breezes S.W. and W. Thete was generally some cement taking its direction from the wind, but very uncertain.

** On nearing the land by day the Harbour Rocks will be easily made out, and a stranger may stand boldly in, steering about half a mile to the eastward of the outward rock, until the mark for keeping to the northward of die Kaliusa Ree6 comes nearly on. He will dien without difficulty make out the English consul's house and garden, bearing S. »0° E. by compass from the outer rock. It is a dark-coloured house of two stories, (the lower one nearly hid by olive trees,) witli five windows, the three central ones in a semi-circular projection. At the ticrttom of the garden is a small summer'honse, and between it and the liouse a still smaller temple with a white dome, which is veiy con- spicuous on entering the harbour. f

The Leaditig Mark in is, a black mark, on the N.W. corner of the consul's garden wall, on with the central window of the house above described : this leads nearly in mid* chaimel in from 5 to 7 fiithoms.

The mark for the east^ point of the Harbour Reef is the same black mark on widi the temple in the r( nsul's garden (above-mentioned) ; this leads over the point of the reef in 20 feet of water. It kept half-way between the temple and house, it leads clear in 6

The mark for the western point of the Kaliusa Baiik is, the summer-house on with the centre of the consul's house (as above) leads ratlier close in and in 4 fathoms.

** To run in, keep the leading-mark on until the highest part of the mole-fortification is open to the southward of tlie iiaxbour iiocks ; you will then be inside the reefs, and may steer for the sultana's tomh, (two mgusll square buildings witli domes,) bearioff nearly in one, about one-third of a mile to the westward of the consul's garden, until the temple comes on with the black mark. Beyond this a stranger should not go without a pilot, or without making himself acquainted with the channels which lead into the harbour, and iu either of these cases anchoring is recommended, as he will then be in a very good berth, in from 5 to G fathoms outside the shoals, well sheltered from northerly or N.W. winds* and open only to tlie N.E., when the wind would be fair tor running in.

The buiiutu tiuoughout tiie harbour is of sand, with a slight mixture of mud and nnmerous beds of weed. Though not very good holding-ground it is by no means bad,

and the j^ctaon never brought her anchors home. The depths are very irregular, particu- larly in the vicinity of the banks, but least so where the bottom is free from wpf<[. The Tidies vary with the wind, but there is a rise and fall of about two feet uu die tuii and cliange. The landing in boats upon the southern shore of the harbour, in strong northerly winds, is often extremely dangerone, and great caution is required when the sea is seen to break on die Kaliusa Keef-I

ALEXANDiUA. - (Vol. ii. p. 269.) The Harbours of Alexandria were re-surveved by M. te Sautuer de YauhdUh captain in the French navy, in 1834, and for the Central Channel, otherwise the Boghaz, or Grand Pass, he gives the leading mark anneied.

- The French Fort En.

t This will be clearly unJtrstood by referring to Captain Smyth's plan of the Harl« ur of Tripoli. X Murki) lor the pasugea u uiuu and between the reefs have been given by Captain Duadas in the Nautical Magastne oT May, 1935, end by Ceptain Orcy, in that of July, sanoe y«wr.

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Murks for tAe T'lifranct nj tht li ffjhaz. i.r Grtal Ptuuage lo the Old Hurl)oiir_

This cliaaoel is distiuguished hy the sea breaking upon a rock on either side of it These rocks, called the Kol m. Fora, are u^n the inner edge of the outer banki. Should there be no sea, a beet ahouhl be anchored in the pass, in about 5 fathoms ; thence hard to tlie southward of thr nordiern rock, El Kot, until the marks are again in one; whence you may proceed up the liarbuur to the N.£., as shown by the chart.*

Thb Votaob to and vftoM Albxandru.

The " Hints of a Voyager," to and from Alexandria, given in ilie * Nautical Magazine* of ' December, 1 830, are worthy of especial noiioe» The writer says that the best cargo to take Co Alexandria if coals; and iron, with the fnecantions (hat he has prescribed, may be taken.

On the voyage out, if yon hare a chronometer, you may make the land about Cape Finisterre ; and, with north-easterly Mrinds keep the coast in sight to Cape St. V incent, and shape a course for Cape Spartel, as in case of meeting an easterly or soulh-easteriy wind,

anchorage under the cape may be ol^tained. From the Strait you should shape a course for Cape de Gat ; but when in llie Mediterranean make no long tacks, never more than 25 miles from either side of your direct track, as the winds are too variable lo aiiow aa expec- tation of tlieir continuance in any one direction, and the cunenis aie influenced by the direciiou of the land as well as by the wind.

The port of Alexmuiria is spacious, and the approach by day is safe, as the water is deep close to the reefs. The Pasha's palace, Pompey's pillar, and the masts of the ships, are always visible before you approach danger. A stranger should attend to his lead, m the

soundings are a sure guide. If the day is on the wane, haul off ; do not lose lime, and you make your vessel secure: - for should you obtain a pilot, (which is not likely, unless the weather be remarkably Ane,) and get in, you wUi iiud that the custom>house, consul's office^ and all other places, have long been dosed.

Captains of nerchant-vesseis, before ihef leave England, should be regardful in signing Charter-parties, as by neglecting this their homeward bound freight will be charged a com- mission of ilt per cent, by the merchant to whom their outward caigo is cons^;ned, and

deducted from the freightage.

Owing to the late improvements water is easily oblaiueti ; but its free use is to be guarded against, as producmg dysenteries, &c. : it is however very soft, makes capital tea, and washes well. Meat is obtaint^d at the market at very reasnnaMe prices, and the mutton though small is good. Pigeons and quails in season are plentiful and cheap, with vegetables, potatoes excepted. Commanaers aie advised to cany a sufficiency of salt provisiims for their voyage home.

On leaving Alexandria^ work up to Candia ; the average summer passage to Malta is 92 to 30 days : in winter, from 18 to 25; but the vessels that have pursued the above- mentioned track have iiad the shortest voyages. To the southward of the isles of Lampe- dnsa curr^it of one mile an hour, S.W. by S. by compass, was found by a trial in a calm evening. Vessels are recommended to pass the Esquerqu' s In C q < Mariiimo ; as, in a fleet of seven vessels, tliose which came by Cape Bon lost some two, some three, days' time, from being embayed when die wind changed to the N.E., previous lo its blowing a levtoter or mm east.

* The chart here referred to, exlubitiog the new furts, ike, wm republished at tbe liydtographic Office Ltmdon, 1640.

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Should the wind be rnntrary, malce Sardinia; then work along tbe African shore to Algier; thence make and keep the Spanish shore until you sight the rock Gibraltar ; with a westerly wind you may anchor behind the rock, and save the dues, which in quarantine are considerable.-ȣlaTeii dollan for anchoring, and expenses for guard-boats, &c.

Having passed Tarifa, Cape St. Vincent ought to be made; but caution is requisite, especially by night, in order to avoid the Dcedalus Rock, (described in ttie Book of Directions for Spain and Foitugal,) and which was seen by Capt. Neate, in the brig A&trea, of Belfast, who saw the sea breaking over it, and who described its appearance to be like that "S" of a half-tide rock. From Cape St. Vincent, should the wind be north- I, easterly or northerly, stretch to the westward. ** We reached 23° W., | and was in port, (Milford Haven,) sooner than those which kept closer j» in shore." W. S. r

Steam Navioatiok to and in the Mediterranean

The British steam- vessels, conveying the Indian mails via Marseille H and France, take passengers with the mails, according to a scale laid down by Government. The passage is the most rapid in the Mediterranean. The Alecto, Prometheus, &c. generally make their passage in three days from Marseille to Malta, and from Mdta to Atexandria in four days, and sometimes less ; making the passage from London, through France, to Alexandria, in 13 or 14 days. T!ic«e ^teuni-vessels are capable of arrom- modating from 40 to 50 passerii;ers, and atford most excellent accom- I modalions. The Prometheus made her last voyage from Marseille to ^ ISIaUn, a rJistance of 645 miles, in 65 hours. The cabin passage, including 5 every thiuK, is £9 sterlmg from Marseille to Malta, and £13 from Malta S toAI«Kan£ia. Tfa« commaof^ are naval cfficen.--3liii/to, 31 «<Ju^u5<, ^

Covtbact-Steamers to Alexandria. - - On the 1st of September, 1840, «

the first of the Oriental Steam Company's vessels, the Oriental, of 1500 ^

tons, and 450 horse-power, was to start from Soutliampton for Alexandria, |

touching at Gibraltar and Malta only, and carrying the Government ^

mails and dispatches. She was expected to arrive at Malta on the 9th ^

and at Alexandria on the 14th of September. The new line of steam- ^

vessels, for the India-mails, are thenceforward to leave England for «»

Gibraltar, Malta, and Alexandria, on the first of every month, and Alex- !

andria for Malta, Gibraltar, and England, from the 20lh to the 25th of :2

eveiy month, making the passage each wa^, under ordinary circumstances ^

in fonfteen days. A Iwanch steamer will ran twice a month between {

Malta and the Innirm Islands with mails, passengers, goods, and parcels, "t

Each vessel will carry a medical officer, appointed or approved of by g

Government, and the time occupied in the passage home will be allowed a

in the quavantine. Office In I/mdonf No. 51, SL Mary Axe, |

A la^ and powerful steam-ship is to be sent out to commence a line w of communication between Calcutta, Madras, Ceylon, and Suez, in con- a nection with the line to Alexandia. In the intermediate region, iron e steamers are to be placed on the Nile, for the conveyance of passengers, jtc, between Atfo on i Cairo [Kahira] by which tliey will be enabled with certainty to reach the outward steamer at Suez, and the homeward Steamer at Alexandria, as soon as the mails.

See, upon this subject, Mr. Usborne's "New Guide to Egypt, the Levant^ and Syria a most useful and important volume, published in

1840, pages 03 and 105. For the Egyptian measures, weights, and moneys, tlie reader is referred to the same work, pages 133, 4, 5, 6.

In the months of May and June, 1840, Captain- Edward Smith, R. N. in the yacht Menaif belonging to Lord Francis Egerton, was on a cruise upon the coast of Syria, the result of which has been some useful sketches of the coast and harbours, with a sheet of betutifiil views of the principal places. From a small book of ' SalUog DiiecUoilt ' whidl accompanies the \vork we derive the following information.

Coamanders of vessels runniDZ up the Mediterranean, and bound to the coast of Syria, will do well to keep to the normwatd, and by doing so make the island Cwodia ; or, in winter, even the island Cyprus, both of which are bold, and their south sides free from danger : A good departure mny hence be obtained ; on the contrary, l>y keeping too far to the southward, they mav become entangled with low banks to the southward of Jaffa, (near the paiatlel of 32°) and embarrassed with currents and countnr currents invariably met with in this sea, particularly during winter, whensnlvcot to the heavy N.W* gata^ whidk aiilect all the Syrian coast from 32^ to 37'' N.

Of the Winds affecting Currents along this coast the most prevalent are the westerly ; for although in the summer these winds do not blow home, they throw in a very troublesome swell. It lias been sfntcd that the currents generally set to (he itorthwnrd, but this is not always the case. At Beikout a regular tide was observed, which set, on the full and change of the moon, at Che rate of two knots an hour, and opposed to the diiectiOQ of the wind, with a rise of time feet At BBYtfk, (ant Sidoo), more to the aoaih, a rise and &tl was also observed.

Cape Khymzyr, the S.W. point of the Gulf of Iskenderoon, is described in the preced- ing pages. The port of Iskenderoon, as already noticed, page xxv., is a swampy and sickly place, where merchant vesseb discharge cargoes for Aleppo. It consists of a few hats, and the house of the consular agent. Schooners are mostly employed here, having one boRt only, by which the whole of the cargo IS dischaiged* Vessels lie in from nine to six faiiioms at half a mile off shore.

BAY OF TRIPOLI. - (Pat^e 2jtj,) A ledge of rocks stretches to the northward more than a mile from the south poiui; and upon these a iiritish schooner struck, and was dams^ed in 1840. Beyond this, reef, at nearly the same distance to the N.tf .W., are three rocky islets. By hauling round to the northward of the rocks, a vessel mny s lil into the Bay in 10 or 12 fathoms, and come to an anchor off the town in 5 or 6 ; but the road ia safe only duiing die summer season, as the winds ace yiolent dnriog winter, and blow

NAUR el KELB or Dog River. - ^This river, described in page 957, is formed by an

immense and magnificent gorge in the Lel.inon. Its name is derived from a large rock, resembling a dog, formerly on an eminence at its southern entrance, but since fallen, and now washed by the sea; this, during heavy gales from the southward, breaks violently over it. The valley is beautiful, aud the neighbouring Lebanon densely populated. The water of the river is excellent, and the best on the coast.

Mo boat should attempt to proceed up the river during a southerly swell, as the counter- action of the stream, running out with ^reat force, lendeis it extremely dangerous ; and it is then much safer to beach a boat on either nde of its entrance than to pull direct for the river's mouth.

BEYROUT. - The Bay of Beyrout is described in pages xxv'm. nnr? 257. In Sr. George's Bay, at two miles eastward of Uie town is the anchorage mentioned by Sir John Franklin. Here is good ground in from 14 to 8 Ihdionn, rather more sheltered from the

effects of strong northerly winds than the roadstead of Beyrout, with the advantage that should a vessel part from her anchors, or drift on shore during a gale, the shore being of sand, she may be got off again when the weather moderates : but as, in the road of Bey- rout, the shove is rocky, and, at the point of the cape dangerously so, St. George's Bay is ill \\ inter, to be preferred: yet, in summer it should be avoided; the land being low and swampy, its exhalations produce sickness among those frequenting it, and its distance from Beyrout is inconvenient to unladen merchant-vessels. In St. George's Bay is the Nahr el Sazibt a pretty rivulet, mentioned in page 258.

In these roadsteads it is dangerou? to lie during the stormy season of the year, and even in summer, at times, the swell is very troublesome ; although the wind may not blow home, veasels are, by a rebound of this swd^ termed an tmieMow, ftequently thrown athwart, with a dangerous roll.

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On approaching Rai el Beyrouth from the southward, the ooift may be known by its red

apd white sand hills. The red hills are very high, and the cape, at a dutance, as noticed in page 258, appears like an island. It has some dangerous rocks about it, which must be carefully avoided ; but, on opening the town, which cannot be mistaken, ;^ou may haul boldly in, and anchor in from 15 to 9 fathoms. (See the pfeoeding page xxviii.)

The coast bef^vcf-n Bey rout and Seyde or Sidon presents a pleasant aspect, and during all the fioe season it may be coasted along within half a miie or less, taking an occasioniU cast of the lead in 8 fethoms, this b^ng at a sufBcient dislanee fiom (dwte. Off Scydi^ \-esse1s may anchor in 6 fathoms, within an islet and leef of lOckSj at sbown in page 350^ and which extend to the length of 240 fathoms.

RAY OF ACR E. - Cape Carmel is described in page 261, with the shoal extending trom it, within which is the anchorage. Although off Acre the ground is foul, and vessels lie more exposed, they may generally, in iommer, ancbor along the whole line in fiom 13 to 10 and 8 fathoms. At Acre is a mole for the protection of the coasters. The caalle on Cape Blanco has disappeared.

YAFFA or JAFFA, (page 262.) Captain Smith says that the sand-heaps to the north and south of this place present a most barren and dreary appe^^i-ance ; ana he add? that, while to the southward, as iar as the eye could descry, uoiliing but the white sand could be seen, and for two miles to the northward of the town the same appeannee continued, only ricinp hiirher than the sands to the southward ; then the red land commenced. The towers, said to be marks by which Jaffa mi^ht be known, were not seen } but the towo> being sitaate oo elevated land, cannot be mistaken.

' Finally, as to the bade of Syria, British mamifiwtafed goodt ait not onl^ in request but cagedy sought for : and, if a just government be eatablislied, commeroe mil floonsb fateie.

« Spanish pillar-dollan should be named in each charter-party at the stalling value they

bear in England at the time the vessel sails \ and the agents at the sea-ports to pay the amount in 48 hours after the cargo is landed, giving time for the vessel to prepare for sea." Thus the master will be free from the perplexity arising from the various coins which may be cnnent here.

Id May and June, 1840, Captain Smith found the highest temperature of the air off the Syrian coast, - in tlie shade QO*^, in the sun 1 15°. General average of temperature, in the sbade^ 67* to 74*. Water, at 7 fathoms, 64*; atone fathomy67*. Near the doae of May the weather was ezceasively hot dniii^ etileriy winds.

BsRATVif. - In page xxxix., line 4, for ikmf read hwt

In page 121 should be inserted, * On Caps Sta. Maria, opposite to the eastern coast 'of &mot» and at the fiwt of the P«Its of Mycale. there ia now a tower which «thilntB a bright fixed light.'

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Trinity House, Lmdcn, 301 A October , 1840.

THE attention of this Corporation having been directed to the innni rous, severe, and, in some instances, fatal, accidents, which have resulted t'mm the collision of Vessels navigated by Steam ; and it appearing to be in(lis])ensibly uecessary , in order to guard against the recurrence of similar calaniilies, that a r\eg:ulation should be established for the guidance and go?eniment of persons entrusted with the charge of such Vessels ; and,

Whereas the recognixed Rule for Sailing Vesseli ii» That thoie hamg the Wind fair, shall give way to those on a Wiad

That, when both are going by the Wind, the Vessel on the Starboard Tack shall keep her Wind, and the one on the Larboard Tack bear up, - thereby passing each other on the Larboard hand

That, wlieu both Vessels have the Wind large or abeam, and meet , tliey shall pass each other in the same way on the Larboard hand, to eitiect which two last-mentioned objects the Helm must be put to Port : -

And, as Steam Vessels may be considered in the light of Vessels navigating with a fair Wind, and should give way to Sailing Vessels, on a Wind, on either Tack, it becomes necessary only to provide a Rule for their observance, when meeting other Steamers, or Sailing Vessels going large ; -

Under these considontfont, and with the objeet beibie staled, this Board has deemed It right to ftame and promulgate the felkming Rule, which, on communication with the I^trds Commissioners of the Admiralty, the Elder Brethren find has been already adopted in respect of Steam Vessels in her Majesty*a Service, and they desire earnestly to impress upon the minds of all persona having charge of Steam Vessels^ the propriety and urgent necessity of a strict adherence thereto, viz.

When Stiam Vbssbls on different courses must unavoidably or necessarily cross so near, that, by continubg their respective courses, there would be a fisk of coming 10 Collision, each Vessel shall put her Helm to Pokt, so as always to pass on the Labboaud tide of each other,

A Steam Vessel passing another in a narrow Channel, must always leave the Vessel she is passing on the Larboard hand,

By Order,

(Bgwed) J. HERBERT, Secretary.

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As every particular relative to the navigation of Steam-vessels has become peculiarly interesting, and cannot be too generally known, we offer no apology for giving the follow- ing extracts from the Nautical Magazine of February, 1640. They are intended ior the n«e of those who iiiay» bereiAer, ttrva in ateamafs ; for, * with a knowledge of the line trace ! ^\hfcn going stern foremost, a commander may turn his vessel with certainty (pro- vided the wind is favorable and there be no tide,) iu twice her own length, wilhoat the asabtance of a rope.' .

Remarks on the Evolutions of a Steam-vessel, by Mr. Robeet C. Allav, of H.M. Stbam Vessbl Volcaho^ October^ 18^9.

Having been upward of three yean in aleam-vaaseb, I have had many opportunities of

observing what may be done in ihera, with regard to turnint^ them round in a short space* Every one acquainted with the management of a steamer knows what can be done when going ahead ; but not so When going * AeeA-fera t* for many persons aerring in steam- veaaela are unacquainted with the following fiutei

Suppose a steam-vessel to be lying-to, under bare poles»

on the larboard tack, with a breeze, of which the strength is from 2 to 6,* she will lie-to with the wind a little abaft the beam, aa at a in the ^ure.

Put tlie helm a-port, and give her a back turn, and she

will always come up with her stern to the wind. If tlie wind be light, ^y 2 or 3, she will generally come right round, and nearly to tlie spot from whence she started. If the wind be strong she will not come round until she brings it on the starboard beam, as at 6 ; and then, not- withstanding the helm being shifted to starboard, as indicated bjr the double line, she will again present her ateni to the wind and attain the potitloii e.

The manner in wbkh the writer oidanfouts to account for the anomaly is this t-^

There are two forces, the wind and the paddle-wheels. If the wind acts cr;ijal!y on the fore and after parts of the vessel, and the paddle*wheels send her directly astern ; then, by the lesolnlieo of forcea, ahe will mom m»g Unt diagonal of the parallelogram represented by those two forces : but the wind acting on the fore part of the vessd, (whidi in moat steamers presents a much larger surface than the after part,) brings her stprn to the w'uid : tlie paddle-wheels, as before, send her in the dirt=ctK)ii ut her length. Now, m going a-head, even with the atsiahmne of the helm, the same vessel will take niueb moi* time, aa well as a much greater space, to come into the direction of the wind, than when she is going a-stern ; and from a like reason the same sar&ce forward acts against her bead Coming to windward, as before it tended to bring her stern to the wind.

In any vessel going a-head with the helm hard over, suppose a ship tacking, or a steam, boat altering her course, the fore part of the vessel ia steady while the stem nakea the movement. Id a steamer going arStem, the after part of the ?<ssel is steady whila the fore

part makes the movement.

In a calm a steamer will sometimes obey her helm when going a-s(ern, but it is not at all to be depended on : it is as well, perhaps, for the sake of the pmiies, to keep it

*< I have/' saya Mr. AUan, " put the Fakm» to the taak ao often, even in the crowded

harbour of Alexandria, that I will venture to assert that it may be laid down as a certainty,

in steam-boat evolutions, tliat the stcrfl will invariably come up into the wind itith aback turn, and that, in tiie stronger wind, she will take less tiuie and less space."

- In journalizing, according to the recent iiractice, the force of the wind is denoted by the figum 0 to 12 ^, signifies calm ; 1, light air; 2, light breeze; 3, gentle breeze; 4, moderate breeze ; 5, fresh breeze ; 6, strong breese ; 7, moderate gale g 8, ftesb gale, &c. AUantie Memoir^ t^lh edition, 504.

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%*' Throughout this Woek, the oivxk Lonoitudb ib thb LoHonruDB vbom Gbesiiwich« The Bbabinos and Coubibs are those hy Compass, mUeei whbbh

nnHE present Variaiion of the Magnetic Needle, in the Strait of Gibraltar, is 22 j degrees West: Near the Iste Albonw, aad thence to Cape Palos, 22 degrees: At Mallorci), or Majorca, and thence to Corsica, tlY*x Off Cape St. Sebastian, 21°: Marseilles, Toulon, and Hiercs, 19° 40': Genoa, 17°: Strait All these conclusions liave been deduced from observations ^ude in the British shipe of war on the Mediterranean station.

I- The STRAIT and BAY of GIBRALTAR, from Cape Trafalgar to GiBftALTAR^ Cape Spaetel to Ceuta, and thence ^o^.Tetuan.

This Section is arranged as follows : - 1. D'^sciuption of the Spanish Coast from Cape Traf^^ar to Gibr^tar. - 2. The African Cuaxt, from Cape Spartel to Ceuta and Tttuan. - 3. The Tidbs and Cubkbiit. - 4. DiKxcrioNs for Saiuvo, both horn the Wbstwabd an^ Eastward*

1. The SPANISH COAST, from Cape Trafalgar to Gibiialiae.

PAPE TRAFAZiGAIt, by the antients called the Promontory of Juno, is si- tuate in latitude 3(j° lO' 15", and longitude 6° l' 30" W. It is not high, but maybe known by its remarkable figure, being flat, and terminating with two sharp comers, or angles. A romid tower stands on the eastern corner. To the eastward of the flat the land is very uneven and mountainous. East of the flat land ate high sandy cliffs, but none to the westward. To Hie north-westward of the Cape the coast is low and sandy, excepting a few rocky points, equally low with the rest, and of which one extends out* ward to the distance of more than a cable's length.

The Altos or Hetohts of Mkca, to the north-eastward of Cape Trafalgar, are very level on the summit, and appear to be divided into two parts, spotted with green clumps, and a ffiw patches of white saod.

The TowsB qf Mbca is a league to the S.E. by E. | E. TE. | &] of Cape Trafalgar. Between is seen a patch of sand, called the Boqueron, osefttl as a mark for the shoals in

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fhe ofllnfr. At mtto mora than two-thirds of a mile E. by S. [E.ly A'.] from the tower of Cape Trafalgar, the beach is low, and has a small creek, with some rocks lymg De- fore it. This is called the Barcadero (landing-place) of Meca, and here water may do obtained. VesseU may anchiiT off this place, in a convenient depth, OB clew grawno,

E. i N. Cop, 7 i "/nk'nr, -.nlh ihf pitch and lower E. } S. about A Itaguts. E. I S.

RANK OFF TRAFALGAR. - A bank of sand, extending one mile and a half N.N. W. and S.S.E., lies at the distance of between 3 and 4 miles from Cape Trafalgar. Its least depth is 3 fathoms, hut around it are from 8 to 10 fathoms, at a short distance. The north end bears N.W. by W. \ W. f Y ^-P IV.] 3i miles from Cape Trafalgar; and here the tower on that cape appears in a line with the Tower of Meca. -^-JL* from the tower of Conil. From this end, the tow of Tiafalgir nppeara m a bnc with the »andy spot called the Boqneron.

The Shoat of ArKYTFRA - This is a reef or chain of rocks, extending North and South about one mile, and about two cables' length in breadth. The least depth is a frUfaom and a half at low water; but, in the iotenrals between the rocks there is as much as '5 fathoms. The N.W. end lies W.N.W. T W. [S. 80« 16' nearly tvvo miles from Cape Trafalgar, and the S.E. end W.S.W. i W. iS,lV. k } ^b""*^ V'^ same distance from that cape. On the north end, the tower of Trafalgar is m one with the Boqueron t on its shoalest part» the same tower is in a line with the highest point ot the hi^rh land of Meca. Other marks have been given by Todnoj but, as they cannot^ be readily ascertained by a stranger, they are omitted here.

Beiween the shoal ofAceytera and Cape Trafalgar, in an extent of half a mile, there teems to be a boiling in the water, n-ith the appearaoce of breakers. This is merely the effect of the counter-currents, there being, in general, no drtn^^er ; and, it i«, there- fore, called the fiwa, or Laughter, of the cape. It may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the Race qf Trafalgar. W ith westerly wind it is the owtemwit of those whirlpools of the Strait, which will he described hereafter.

BwktgahmvytwM, with wind unsteedy, it would be imprudent to attempt the passage hrt^veen Cape Trafalgar and the shoal of Aceytera, as the sea then rolls deeply; and, sfiould the wind fail, yott may be obliged to come loan anchor in an exposed situa- tion, and on bad ground. *

From Powrr Msca to the Isle Tabifa the coast is irregularly formed by the rodty points Sara, Camarinal, Plata, Paloma, and Peila, connected by sandy coves, (as shown on the charts,) the eastern sides of which afford occasional shelter. Saba Point is of moderate height near the sea, but shortly foims a mountain, with two towers, or other buildings, on its summit 'The Camabivai. is low, but has a watch-tower on it, and rocks stretching about half a mile out to sea. Cape Plata is the extremity of a moun- tain, ijradim)lv declining to the point, which has some rocks about it. of tiie country^ aU the way from Meca Point to this cape, is hilly, and of considerable

The TowF R of Paloma, on the point of the same name, is 4J miles S.E. I K [.S 7 2^ E.] from Cape Plata. Some large low rocks extend before it. Between is the Enseuada, or Cove, of Balonia,* affording good anchorage and shelter, for ships of all sizes, at half a cannot-shot fnm the shore.

TARIFA, formerly an isle, is now a little penmsnla, connected to the main by a sandy causey. It is small and low. but has, from the year 1813, been distinguished by a lighthouse, which exhibits a revolvirifr lii^ht. On the outside, the water is generally deep ; but, on the S.W. side, ij a rock, the Maroquim, somedmes covered, and lying at half a musket-shot from shore.

- Here, according to D'Anville, stood the antient Jiceim, the usual place of embarkation nn|^ now Taagier.

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CABEZOS^The Shoau caHed the Bajos db los Cabskm, lie to the-aoodiml

and south-eastward of Paloma Point. Of these ihore are four, the outer and least dan- gerous being the Placer Nuevo, or New Shoal, extending a mile E.S.E. and W.N.W. Of this bank, the shoalest part, near the west end, has 7i to 8, and the rest of the bank 9, fathoms, fine sand, it lies on the parallel of 36 decrees, 5^ miiet true Bttt from Tarifa light; aod from its centre Paloiiia Point bears N.N.£. [iV.] 3 miles.*

The Cabezoi, proper, lie nt three-quarters of a mile E. by X. from the Placer Nuero. In the channel between are from 8 to 12 iathomti. This channel lies with Tarifa light bearing S.B. hy E. | E., and thus you may pass through in 18 fathonu. On the late chart the shoalest water marked on the shoal is 5 ^ to 8 feet ; though a former description statt\s that, in very low tides, there is so little water on them as to reach only to the mid-leg of the persons who collect shell^fish upon them ; but, at a short distance, are from 9| to 3 faUioms $ and, at a little farther, from 7 to 1 1 fathoms. Many vetseli have been Inst here, and few that have touched have been gotten off without some danuige.

I'he Phrcr del Oeste, or Western Shoal, lies at half a mile from the Cabezos, and has over it from 2| to 5^ fathoms. From the middle of this bank Point Paloma bears N.N.B. one mile and a half* The ground between It rocky, and in mid-channel are from 14 to 18 fothiomi, slioaliog thence to the point.

The Bajeta lies a mile and a half E.N.E. from the Cabeeos, and a mile W.S.W. from Punta de la Pcna In the channel between are from 3J to 11 fathoms. On this shoal are from to 14> feet uf water, and from its centre the lantern of Tarifa bears b.£. by S. 3^ miles. The ground between is of sandj depths 7 to SI fatbomi.

On the main, to the north of Tarifa ble, stands the fort uf Santa C'ltalma; being placed upon a little hill, it ^ippears, at a distance, like an island. At E.N.E. tmr, nbout a mile from banta Catalina, is Camorro Point, high, broad, and steep, with rocks about it ; and between stands the town of Tabiva, at the Ibot isIS Mount Gabrlto. In the cove, small vessels may be sheltered from westerly winds; and, in favoarable weather, large vessels may anchor to the eastward of the isla^ opposite to the sea>^te of the town, ia from lb to 18 fathoms.

POINT GUADALMESI, which lies East 4| miles from the lighthouse of iaiita, is high and precipitous, with a w^h-towev on its sommit. On its eastern side is a taisU cove, with a deep valley, covered with i;ardens and orchards. From this point, at die distance of two miles and twi^thirds more to the eastward, is the eastern point of ^fe&neAe, the weit^ pmnt of which ia a little within to the westward : both are sur- MMmded with rocks, some above water, bnt not far without the land.

In the bay between Guadalmesi Point and the Pcnnts of Afeboche, one mile wit>)in the latter, is the cnstlc of Tolmo, off which there is anchoi-a<re for small vessels* and shelter from nortiu riy winds, in from 8 to 6 fathoms, good holding ground.

Punta Fkaylk, or Friar i Point, is about a mile E. J S. [iV. 65j° E."] from the eastern point of Apebuche. The land b very high, but slopes to the sea, and on its summit is a

watch-tower. Close to the point is an i^lft, that 1( oks like- a friar, with several rocks about it. On the eastern side of the point is a sandy cove, in which small vessels may be sheltered from north-westerly winds.

CAPB CARNBRO, with Cabrito Point, lie, as shown m the plan of the Bay of

nihraltar, about two miles to the north-eastward of Punta Frayle, and within, on the 8. W., is the little isl e ca! led Po/omot or Pigwn Inland. On the summit of Cape Camero

is a castle and watch-tower.

La i^EKLA, or the Peahl, is a rock, having over it, in one spot, but 9 or 10 feet at low water; but, at two ships' length firom It, both towards the hind and on the outside,

are from 7 to 9 fathoms. The murk for the shnalest part is. Pigeon Island in one with the third rising from the point of Camero ; a peaked rock, off the same point, in one with a hill that makes like a sugar-luaf, with a small saddle on the top of it, which stands to the eastward of S. Roque j and the tower on Punta Frayle bearing W.N.W. [I^etf.]

The town of S. Koque may be readily known, as it is seated on the top of a small hill $

and there is no other place no situated for which it can be mistaken.

* On the site of this bank there has been said to be a rock, on which the Thube firtgate struck some years agOk It proves to be hnsghiary only, nte Thisbe must have strode open the Cte£e«M.

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BAY of From Cabrita Point, or that uf Carnero, N. ^ fy,

trve, nearly two ndles, i« the brotd point tthd tower of 8. Oarda ; between is Getaree

Bay, or rather Cove, liavinij; a 2;nod drpth of water, and pood ground, pxcriitiiifj;^ nrnr the rocky poiats i but it is completely open to easterly winds, which send in a heavy

The coast hehce^to the northward presents nnmerous roelcs, snrronnded by which is tiie isle of ^fgeciras, called Ferde or Green Idand. This is of moderate height, and for« tified. From the ifland, towards the S.W. and N E., the chains of rocks e^tren'l much in a straight line, as to appear Uke an artihcial wail or pier, with channels siiU ftdent to admit fetttceas. The rocks on the eastern part do not prefect so fiur from it, but are equally parallel with the rest. The Mole of Alj^eciras is about half h mile from Isla Verde, and admit"? coa<?tinjj vej^sels at high water. At half a cable's !en<^'th east from the Mole is the Galera, a rock even with the surface of the water, witii a reef on lis N.B. ride, and there is another ilidal, with some radcs off the town.

ALGECIRAS was formerly ft considerable port. It is agreeably situate on a gentle slope by tlic sca-!-ifif ; and a little river, the Mlcl, which rises in the neighbour- ing mountains, passes its southern side, and thence runs gently on to tlie sea. At three-qnaiters of a mile from the Fort of S. Antonio, which stands at the north end of Ae town, is the tower of AkairMaf on ft point of moderate hdght, itirroanded with

At the distance of ?J miles, to the northward, from the Isla Verde, is the bar of the River Paimones, which river its resorted to in winter by the trading vessels* of Algeriras. jPimla Mttat on the esstem side of the bay, opposite to the River Palmones, is n little

elpvatrr), and has ^ castle upon it, which is situate at nearly a mile and a qn u ter to the north-westward of Fort S. Philip, which stands at the west end of the Spaitish lines. From Point Mala, a ledge of rocks extends to the S.W. ftboat two cables' len^h, some of which are above water. Northward of the p<mit» ftt three-tenths of ft mile, is the

Hospital de la Sangre.

GIBRALTAR. - F'rom the fortified line, which separates rfTnn altar from the Scianish territory, the land is very low and tla^ but thence rises, abruptly, the notth side of this cddsrated promontory, to its rugged snrnmit, which is 1^400 feet above the level of the sea, and commands a most extensive view of Spain and Africa * Tlie town, which is ?iti!at('d on the western base of the mountain, contains about 10, (KM) regular inhabitants, and the garrison commonly amounts to 5,000 more. The number and Strei><;th of the military works, and the vast galleries opened in the calcareous rock, ex> cite admiration. The fortress, in the opinion of most military men, is absolutely im- pregnable. The streets are now kept extremely dean j they are well paved, and sewers, &c., are made to carry off all water and filth.

The eastern side of the mount is very steep, bat the western side so declines to the sea, that the town is erected on its base. From the north end of the town, the old Mole extends, in a true N.W. by W. direction, about 1,100 feet: the New Mole, at a mile and a half to the southward, extends 70U feet to the N.W. The latter, with an elbow formed by the shore, affords shelter for several vessels, even ships of war, which ia ' ndnter may moor under it ; die futbest out in from 5 (0 6 fathoms.

On the WESTERN SIDE of tlie BAY a vessel may come to an anchor at half a mile from Cabrita or Carnero Point, in from 18 to 27 fathoms, fine gravel and sand, and even outward to 38 fathoms. The same depths may be found to the nor tli ward, towards Point S. Garcia, but there the ground is not good. The best and most secure anchor* age, at all times, is, however, from off the centre of the town of Al;;eciras towards the lUver Palmones and Bridge of Mayorga, or River of 8t. Roque : the limit commences when you Yiave passed the line tm which -Point Carnero appears fn one with the middle of Apes' Hill, in Africa, and the Rock la Galera in uue unth die south end of Algeciras. The best station is to the northward, towards the Palmones ; or more to the eastward, at half a mile from shore. It is requisite to sound before the anchor be let go, lest the depth be too great.

* The name Gibraltar seems to signify a steep rocky mountdn, or one with a peaked sum- mit; asGibelel Tor, in Palestine, which is inform of a sugar-loaf. Tor is a word extesdlag to mfoy languages^ and conveying the same radical idea: it sigufies a high xock, w summit.

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' ANCHORAGES. - Vessels may «}ome-to, also, from the Bridgeof Mayorgoor St.Roque, hll rtie way to St. Philip's Castle, only avoidin^r the fbul grouftd near the reef of Point Mala, already described. ]!« nee to the Old Mole of GibrtUtttthe ground is good, and at the latter is the usual ancliorat;p of English vessels ; the smaller by the Mole, and the larger farther out. Before the space between the Old and New Molea, vessels likewise inchor, b whatever depth may be preferred ; at about half a tnilefirom the fortifications; not nearer, as there are rocks aloticr shore ; not farther off, lest they miss the bank. Ships may also ride hrtweon the New Mole and Europa Point» at the aame distance from slioie, although in deeptt water.

To the Remarks on, aiid Description of, Gibraltar, given above, the following may be added.

To avoid the Pearl Rock, which lies ofT Pigeon Island, and which has no more than 10 feet of water on it, be snre nut to bring Europa Point to the ea<stwarfi of T^.N.E. until the town of St. Roque be open of Cainero or Cabrita Point. You ma^- ihtu btand Into the baj and take up an andborage.

To ondlor on the N.B. tUe qf the Boy, off the OU Mole, open the Devil** Tower,

which stands at the N.E. extremity of Gibraltar ; you m iy then steer for it, ahd anchor in what depth of water you please, in time of war shipji anchor off the New Mole : they bring the head of that mole to bear S.E. or S.E. ^ S., and let go the best bower in 20 or 22 fatiioms of water. You moor with the small bower to the S.E. in 1 1, 12, or 13, fathoms, and will then have 14 or 15 fathoms utider foot, and the head of the Old Stole bearing N.N.E.* Watei; may be had iu Rosia Bay, at the back of the Old Mole; but at this place there ia not sufficient quantity for a fleet

The most dangerous wind, and that which causes the nnoat sea liere» ia from Soutli

to West ; and it would not be advisable to anclior in a gale from that quarter, unless

absolute necessity requires you to do «;o. *

Wood may be obtained here in small quantities only ; but provisions, fruits, and wines of all .kinds, may be had in great plenty in time of peace with Spain. In time of war

fresh provisions are very scarce and very dear: being mostly brought frora the Barbary coast. It is well known that a great trade i-^ ran led on at Gibraltar with the coast of Barbary and different ports in the Mediterranean, and, also, an inland trade with Spain. v

In the New Mole there is n doclc-yard, with a dieer-hulk and a earaenlng-wliaif,

where ships of the laigest size may be hove down.

Gibraltar is defended by about lOO pi pops of cannon. The town has two wide streets and several narrower ones : it stands on a rock, but has a number of trees and ahnibs regnlaily planted in dUFerent parts, with neat little kitchen-gardens, and the buildings generally are neat and regnlar, standitii; one above another on the side of the rock. The roadstead is not altogether safe for shipping, and particularly to boats under tail, which are subject to heavy squalls.

The Caeef<i^9 gmi-boat, was some years ago lost on a rock which lies about

SOM yards to the north-eastward of Europa Point, and sometime aftei u ai d the Commis- aioner's yacht narrowly escaped the same fate. The rock is a pinnacle, of smali size, and a line-of>battle ship may pass inside of it. in moderate weather a vessel noay anohor off Europa Fointf in 10 fathonifl^ on dean aand, at a oonsiderable distance from shore.

2. The AFRICAN COAST from Cape Spart&l to Ceuta and

Tbe AraXCAM COAST. - Capc Espartel or Spastel, the N.W. point of the State of Marooco, is situate in lalitttde 35^ 48' 15'', and longitade» 54' «5" W.

Its bearing and distance from Ciqie Tnlfal^ar are, therefore, S. % W. [S. 1.5° E."] miles. The cape, at a distance, appears like an island, and is so hii^h as to be seen, iu clear weather, at the distance of 14 or 15 leagues. The outer point, when seen from

' * Another Journal says, The best anchorage is with the Devil's Tower just open to tbe northwsrd

of the Rock, and St. Roquc's churcli in one widi a barbet-battciy on Point Mala, where you will have from 15 to 18 Kkthoms, sandy buttom. It ii best not to bhiit in the Devil'ii Tower, as theie ihe bottom is very ftoL In working into the bay, with an ea-st^rly wind, stand to nearer lo VtAsA Uala than thnse-quarters of a niUe» as there are rocks wiUioui iu

a sliort distance to the westward, appears uneven, with eminencea on it like hummocks, and the high IhikIs resemble the awning of a galley. The groand about the Cape ia quite clear, with the exception of some high rocks, which are steep-to.*

Between Cape Spartel and the western point of Tangier Bay, a distance of 4h miles, the coast is high and clear, but bordered with rocks, and there is one rock, the Pac'tfico, discovered in 1818, which lies at three-quarters of a mile N.N.B. [North] from Tangier

Point. Depths between, 1 1 to CO feet. A reef extends around thf» point to the dis- tance of two cables' len<j;th : here the grniind h of gravel and small stones.

Cape Malabata or Malabat, the eastern point of Tangier Bay, is S miles E. ^ 8. [E.N.E. ^ E."] from Tangiw Point. This projection, also, is sarrounded by a reef, but not so extensive a one as the former. At about three-quarters of a mile N. by W. ^ W. from the cape there is, however, a rocV, on which the Rxccllent, a 74-^un ship, struck some years ago. While the ship wan on the rock, there was found to be a depth of 6 fathoms on one side, andf 5^ on the other. She was over in less than a minute. This rock, named the AlmirmiUf has 3 fathoms over 1^ and lies at a mile N. by W. [AT.XP'. by A'."] from the cape.

TAKCrXSa BAT. - The town of Tanoisb, antiently called TingU and Tingia, whi<sb stands on the western side of this bay, is now a place of little consideration, and contains about 5,000 inhabitants. The Spaniards visit this place for eggs, fowls,

vegetables, and some fruits ; but tlie chief exports are cattle and edible vegetwiies, which are taken to Gibraltar for the supply of the garrison. Mr. Jackson says, * This supply b allowed by the emperor, not perhaps from any predilection towards ns, (although he apparently prefers the English to any other European power,) but because it was a grant from his great grandfather, Muley Tsmael, whose successors have not infringed on the ordinances of their renowned ancestor ; the Mahomedans having a great respect for the deeds of their forelathers.' The Bay alfords convenient anchorage for vessels of all sizes, niipos'ite tn thr town, in from 9 to 12 fathoms, sand: but, it is to be observed that, on the eastern side there is a rocky ledge, bearing S.E. \ E. from Tangier Point, and 8.W. by W. \ W. from Cipe Malabat. This Cape, in a line with Earopa Pointy Gibraltsr, leads clear of tlie shoal, and the anchorage, therefore, lies with Gibraltar open of the Cape. Ships moor to the N.W. and S.E. with the longest cable to the N.W., and it wiii be proper to buoy up and protect the cables, as they may be exposed to injury from the hard roots of large seaFweeds* which grow In the bottom of the bay, as well as from coral, hereafter described.

A large mooring chain has been discovered in the western side of Tangier Bay ; it is supposed to have laid there from the time of Charles 11., King of England, and to have caused the loss tii many ancliors ; a loss attributed to the roots of se»>weeds, &e. It lies nearly in a true B. and W. direction, north of the parallel of the town, and from one-fourth to more than one-third of the breadth of the bay from the western shore. The Road or beat ground for anchoring is between this chain and the reef on the eastern side of the bay.

On the south side of the bay is a high and pleasaotJooking hill, and about the town is

a ^vall and some fortifications. On the shnalrst part of the led:;'", ahovf mentioned, the depth is only 12 feet, and there are 6 fathoms, on rocky bottom, close to it : it is about three-quarters of a mile off the shore, and not more tban 3 or 4 fiitiioms in length. Between it and the eastern shore are 10 fathoms of water, and at the distance of about 10 fathoms from it are 7 fathoms. On entering the bay with an easterly wind, you may borrow towards Point Malabat at pleasure. From the anchorage, in 8 fathoms, the north end of Gibraltar, open of Malabat Point, bears N.B. by E. f E. [N. 41^ B,"] $ the old bridge of Tangier, S. I W. ; the old tower of Malabat, E.S.E. J E. and the town of Tan- gier, N.W. by VV. J W. about one mile and a half distant. There is broken coral all over the bay, and ships should never lie with more cable out than is sufficient to keep them from driving ; and the cables should be rounded as far as 10 or IS fathoms fh>m the anchor Thrrr is said to be a spot of clean ground, in 9i fathoms, with the north pait of Tangier town-wall on with a white patch on Cape Spartel, bearing W.N.W. I W. [W. i S.'] and the pleasant hill above mentioned bearingfrom 8.8.W to i.W. by 8. Baateny or Levant winds cause a heavy iwdl to tumble into the bay.

* Captain Livingston has informed us that, there is a range of well defiued basaltic columns, appearing Kke a coronet, around the west side of Cape Spartel, and about one-third of the whole height from the <4tiinnut. Though not to he romp^ircd with those uf the OimlV C!sNN|f> IvellUkdi ax StqffOi in the Hebrides, be thinks them the next hnc&i tlui he has seen.

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On full and change days, the tide in the bay rises 5 feet ; the flood sets to the west- ward dU 19 o^dodc, but doM not eistend thus more than a See the remarks on the TIdet, &c. hereafter.

TANG-ZZSS to CSUTA. - The whole of the roast from Tangier to Cibta, or Ceuta, is rugged, and interspersed with rocks and projecting cliffs. The interior is high } and, directly Sottth, true, from the bay of Gibraltar, is the JiftM lyZatute, or Ap§^ mU, the Sierra Bullonet of the Spaniards, and AhyUi of the antients : this and the promontory of Gibraltar, Calpe, havlnt^ been the Pillars of Herculd g heoce the Fretum Herculeum, or Frith of Hercules, ncfv the Strait of Gibndtar..

Tari/a Point I'msI. 7 milet. Afxs" Ilill, S.E. by E. ( by compass.)

The Point of Alcazar, or Castle Point, which lies d| miles to the eastward from Malabat, is high, steep, and surrounded with a reef; between are two sandy coves, a« ahoira in the Chart, in which there is anchorage close to the shore, in from 18 to 9 fathoms. Two miles from Alcazar Point is that of Sainar, which is low, and has several islets about it : between is the Cove of Alcazar, having a sandy beach and anchor* age in from 15 to 90 fatfioma. «

A mile to the eastward of Sainar Point, is the Cove of Sainar, whence the ooast ex- tends, with various rocky points, one league N.E. I E. [iV. 25° E."] to a projecting islet on the point of Ciris, and which stretches to the north^i^ard from that point about two I cablet' length. The P<»nt of Ciris is low, but gradually rises up to a sharp-cornered

mounbdn, which, from its remarkable form, is called the qf Ctrit,

At a mile and a half to the eastward of Ciris Point is that called Lanchones, half a mile beyond which is Cruces Point- The first is high, broad, and steep, with rocks at its base: the second is not so high, and more even : between is a bay, three-quarters of a mile in depth, with a flat beach, off which is anchoring ground in 15 fathoms. At ra- ther less than a mile from Cruces Point is the broad point of Almansa, high and abmp^ and forming a cove with a small beach.

The northern part of Perboil or Pabsi^ey Island lies three-quarters of a mile to the eastward firom Almanaa Point. It is merely a roek, lying along shore, at the distance of

a cable's length. There is a sunken rock near its N. W. point. Close to the outside is a depth of 1 8 fathoms. From over the middle of this isle the true b earing of the sum- mit of Apes' Hill is 5. 17^ and, as it lies near the foot of the mountains, and is of the same colour, it is often difficult to diatingnish it from the midn, even at a short distance, although it is high.

Leona Point, at a mile to the north-eastward of Peregil, is steep and of moderate height It is distinguished by a larije tower in ruins, between it and Peregil there is anchorage in 8 fathoms. At a mife Mid three>qnarters B.8.B. f B. ^9. 83^ EJ] from Point Leona, is Pnnta BUmca, or fVhite Po'nit, which is hiirh, abrupt, of a dark colour approaching to red, with the ruins of a tower on it, some islets at its base, and a rocky shoal at a quarter of a mile to tlie eastward of it,* Between is Benzus Cove, wherein ships of any siae may anchor, in 18 fathoms, bottom of sand, about two caMea' length from

- Tofino describes this shoal as about the nse of the hull of a man of war, with from 3 to 4 fa- thoms over it, excepting where the ruck in highest, and the depth only one fathom over die size of a large long-boat. Between the shoal and shore are ftom 8 to 9 fathoms, roek ; die diannel only a cables' length broad ; being narrowed by some islets, projecting about two-thirds of a cable from the shore. On the outside of llie shoal are from 8 to 9 fathoms, bottom of rotk. From the shoal, the outer islet of Torre-blanca, Wliite- tower Point, appears in aline with Point Leona; the ruins of the tower, with the upper point of Apes' HiU, bear 8.W. 66° fV.] ; and Pouit Benneis, er Bed Peint^ on die N*E. earner i>f the wsDs of old Ceuta, now merely a space of ground, inclosed

ahore, and be protected from snuth'eaoterly and south-westerly winds. From the an* ohoring ground Uie iabU of PanU Blanca betr E. 1 8. $ a remarkable pyramidal peak, a little up the country, 8. by W. f W. ; and Point Leona, in one with Tariia, N.W.

At less than a mile from Punta Blanca, to the south-eastward, is Point Bermeia or Red Point, which, likewise, is high, and has a ruined tower upon it. The coast bitween is bordered witli neks, of whick some are above tiie water. Without thtm like water is deep.

About three-qiinrters of a mile south-casftward from Bermeia Point is Benites Point, with the two low and flat islets of £i Campo, to the eastward of which is the anchorage in the lesser Bay of Ceuta.

CBITTA. - ^TheALMiwA is the penlnsda, containing the suburbs and fortress of

Ceuta. This place is well known as having been taken from the Moors, by John, Kino^ of Portugal, early in the fifteenth century, but was finally ceded to the crown of Spain in 1688, to which it continues to be ann^d. The town Is supposed to be of Cai tba- ginian origin, and was colonised by the Romans. On the Isind-aide it leemt, like

Gibraltar, to be impregnable.

The Almina extends about a mile and a half from East to West, and is surrounded with rocks. On its eastern and most elevated part is the Acho, or Castle of Ceuta, which stands in latitude 35^ 54', and longitude 5^ i7* W. To the westward of this are

six little hills or eminences. On the western skirt of the Almina are the suburbs of Ceuta, then the city, which is fortified, between these and the main land.

The Punta Sta. Catalina is the northernmost point of the Almina ; it is low, and has some islets and rocks about it. Between this and the rocky islets of El Compo is the anchorage in the lesser Bay of Ceuta, having from 13 to 8 fathoms, bottom of sand, with a few loose stones. Having opened the street called Culle del Obispo, (Bishop's Street,) which commences on the north side of the governor's house, this uiark will lead to the spot. In every other part a bottom of gravel will be found* Ships moor with anchors to the N.E. and 8. W. ; the longest cabfes to the N.B.

The Grkat Bay of Ceuta, formed by the Almina Point in the North, and Cape Negro in the South, is 11 miles long in that direction, and 3 in depth. Ships of all sizes may anchor, in any requisite depth, almost through its whole extent, near the shore. The Bay of Tbtuan extends to the southward from Cape Negro to Cape Tetnan or Mazari, a distance nf 3 leagues, and is similar to that of Ceuta. In both, vessels are completely sheltered from westerly winds, but every precaution must be takea against winds blowing on shove. Should it not be thoiu^ adrisable to ani^iar« fk ship may keep under sail, on different tacks, in winter aa well as summer, so as to be read^ to take adv ntr\ge of the first breeze of easterly wind^ wMch may lead thence to and through thfi St I ait.

The Mowa Negrom$ which stands at 7| miles nearly South, [S. 24° 48' W.I from the Acho or Castle of Ceuta, is lofty and black. On its summit is a square tower.

Cape Negro, which is I)\ miles S. by E. \_S.E. by S.] from Negrona, is of moderate height, unevrn on the surface, has a round tower on it, and is surrounded with islets.

VlJESXt7A9W. - The River of Tetuan fails into the sea at about a league and a half to the southward of Cape Negro : it admits boats and small craft at high water. At the entrance is a small castle of brick, and, at about a mile up, the custom house. The city of Tetuan, which is 4 or 5 miles up the country, is said to contain 16,000 inhabitants, chiefly Moors and .Jews, who, for the must part, speak a corrupt Spanish, in which language their commercial negotiations are transacted. The environs wound in gardens of the most deUcious fruits; the fiwcAi oranges in the world; exquisite grapes, &c. year old, 13 simiiai- to tiie Irish usquebah, and they prefer it to European brandy or rum, because, as they say, it does not heat the bkiod.

Although no European is allowed to settle here, this port has carried on a considerable trade in provisions with Gibniltar, ns vessels are obliged to come here, in preference to Tangier, whenever the wind is settled in the West. During the late war our fleets often watered and victualled here. There is an excellent watering-place, in particular, at % mile to tlie squthwd «f Muari, or Cape TetuaD> whJeh' Cape is distinguished by a white tower.

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, The late Sir John Knitjht, of the navy, snrvoypt? the bays of Ceuta and Tetuan in the year i7i)9t and be says, that, in both, are some spots of foul ground, more particularly In Ceuta Bay, in the dqpth of 10 to 1 7 fathom*. At the watering place, in the south part of Tetuan Bay, on some slight compliments being paid to the governor, fresh provisions of eveiy kind may be obtained, reasonably and in abundance, with wood for fuel. Here ships may lide in perfect safety, on a avuidy bottom, in from 18 to 22 fathoms, with the wind at Nortk^ by the fFett, to S.S.E, f%nc«J at two miles from the shore; but within that depth Ihe ground is, in some places, rocky.

The mode of watering is by landing the casks, and rolling them over a sandy beach, of about SO yarda wide> into the river. The native Moors and Arabs are civil, but not to be trusted.

sups have a better shelter in Ceuta than In Tetoan Bay ; bnt, on acconnt of its yk^ nity to the garriion of Ceuta, it b less frequented in time of war. When the easterly or Levant winds sprim/ up, it becomes necessary to get under way. The ap|)roac'n f)f thrse winds is generally indicated by a swell or current from that quarter, and by a clem at- moepfaere for some hours beftnretfae passing clouds begin to cap the hills.*

8. The TIDES and CT'R RENTS of the STBAIX and

STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR - Ou both aides of the Strait of Gibraltar, the would be regular, were they not influenced, as they greatly are, by the winds.

From Cadiz the tide of flood sets towards Cape Trafalgar, where it is high Mrater, on the days of full and change, at about V^, but, at Tarrifa, about XI^, and, at Gibraltar, XII|, where it rises about 5 feet. The flood again sets from Buropa Point to Cape Cai n ro, and from thence to Tarifa, &c. so that it meets the tide from the west off Cape Trafalgar, where it is low ebb at the time when it is liiir'' water at Tarifa. The tide, in this way, runs as far as 2 miles off the coast : and, at that distance off Tarifa, it flows until two o'clock. The tide is perceptible eastward as lar as Malaga, where it rises about 3 feet, btit at some distance l^evond tliis it is scarcely perceptible. At Majnrcji and Minorca the tides are very irregular j rising and falling a foot or two, according to the iriods.

On the Southern Coast, from Cape Spartel to Apes' Hill, another tide runs along

shore to the westward, as shown in the charts. In the great Cove, opposite to Tarifa, it is high water at 10 o'clock, but more to the West, near Tangier, at 18, and it con*

tinues in the offing an hour longer.

lu tiie middle of the Strait, between the lines AA on the Chart, the current from the Atlantic Ocean sets generally to the Bast. This effect is supposed to be caused, in

grent meiisiirr, hy the vast quantity of evapor.-.l'i'Mi from the Mcrfirerrancan Sra, and the inefficient supply from its rivers : much al.so has been said on the existence and effect of undor currents, which have been supposed to carry out a great portion of its water to the ocean. Near the shores, on both sides, are many elianges, couater-curreats, eind whirl* pools, caused by, and varying with, the winds.

In the Mediterranean Sea, generally, the Tides are inconsiderable, mostly irregu- lar, «md, with respect to rise and fail, in many parts imperceptible, as the motion of the water in those parts seems rather owing to the impulse of the wind ; notwithstand- ing this, the lunar influence is manifested, in many cases, by the chat\i;cg of stream, and in others by the periodical rise and fall, both on the northei rt and the southern shores : Of both cases particular instances are given iu the fuiiowiug descriptions, and they will be referred to hereafter.

We have shown, above, that, on each side of the Stbait of Gibraltar, then Is a Tide, setting outward and inward along each shore. From the vicinity of Malaga, and still farther to the East, the flood sets along-shore, westward, to Gibraltar, and thence along the Spaabh coast, mtil it meets that from the West off Cape Trafalgar. On the

* When Aies* Hill and the top of Oilwaltar «« coiered Levanlsr or easterly wind wBl be of some continuance.

that the

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African shore the flood-tide Ukewise runs along ibore to fttm Wcft, llioog^ in^aUnrlf^ imtil it is lost in the Ocean, as explained in page 9*

Rut. in the middle of the Strait, the current from the Ocean ^eneralhi sets to the eastward, and the boundary of this current, as nearly as it can be given, is delineated oo the charts of the Strait bjr lines marked AA. It, of cour8e» varies according to the circumstances of wind, &.c. : it somrtindes, though rarely, ceases; and therr is, still more rarely, in lieu of an easterly current, a current setting outward to the West. This may be caused either by an extraordinary tide, or by a surcharge of water, idded by a praralence of easterly wind, in the Memterranean Sea : and it is the more particularly to be rejjardrd, hpcRM^e it has lon^ been assumed, as a fact, that the central current invariably sets inward, and always, of course, aflfects the Ocean-water to the westward, inducing, to many leagues oat, B general tendeaqr to tiie same ilireclioB*

That sub or under currents, at tfanes eriit, and run eoonter to iJial on the sorfiMsey

set^ms to have been proved by facts ; but they hnve not been completely demonstrated,

and a more full investigation is a desideratum.

The Mediterranean Sea, says a respectable writer, is said to be rather aalter than the Ocean. That it is not more so, which might be expected from its duly loss by evaporation, has been ascribed to an under-current, saltt r than that of the Ocean, which runs out at the Strait, and unloads its waters of their excess of salt. The idea of a sub-rouine current seems accounted for by the fact, communicated by Dr. Mareet to Dr. Carmlchael, on the tuthority of the Britidi consul at Vahmtia, tliat« some years ago, a vessel was lost at Ceuta, on the African coast, and its wreck aftsfw wards thrown up at Tarifa, on the European shore, about 17 miles to the W.N.W.

A similar fact ia stated by Dr. Hudson : in 171? M. de L'Aic^Ie, of the Phueoix of Marseilles, giving chase to a Dutch ship near CtuCa Toint, came up with her in the middle of the Stndt, between Tarifa and Tangier, and there gave her one broadside, which sunk her. A few days after, the sunken ship, with her cargo of brandy and oil arose on the shore near Tangier, at least 4ieague8 to the West of the place where she aonk, and directly against the strength of the suiftoe cuztent \ which has persuaded many that there is a recurrence in the deep water in the middle of the Strait that Met* outward to the ocean. Phil. Trans. 1724. Vol. 33, p. 192. See Dr. Marcefft Figfer, on the Specific Gravity of Sea-water. 'Edinb. Phil. Journal,* Vol. II. p. 356.

Of the irregular deviations of the Gibraltar Current, one of the most remarkable was seen by Captain Livingston in I88S, when the current in the 8tratt^ instead of setting

in to the eastward, as usual, was found to he decidedly setting to the westward, all across, for some houis ; the flood-tide, (at springs) having over-nm the general easterly current, proven by temperature ; the water at the 8nrface> being 4^^ warmer than at 6 fathoms down. Several vessels were carried right out to the westward. A Dutchman dodged it on the shore of Spain ; Captain Livingston on that of Africa. About seven Others, some in the centre of the Strait^ were carried, from opposite iarila, very nearly W Iw as Cape Spartel.

Captain 3*. J, MtiSng, eommandUig H. M. ship Cambridge, on the coast of Pern, in

a note addressed to Captain Livingston, 23d February, 1825, says, " I can havr no objection to your making use of my name a<? that of one of the pprsons who can hear testimony that the current sometimes runs uiU of the Gut of Gibraltar much stronger than I erer knew it run to the Mediterranean ; bat I believe this fact now to be known, as an occasional but not frerinf^nt occurrence, to all persons who ham navigated the Mediterranean Sea, and no lon<^^er to be a disputed point."*

* Captain Livingston says, " I once tound the vrater quite still off Feregtl Poiiit, at the foot of Apes' Hill, ^East of Tasin, conCniy ta my friend Beiner's statement,) and I could not be deceived, for I steered the same course by conmass firom within a mile of the Barf rtry shore until almost abreast of Europa Point, and all that thne kept two remarkable pealcs in Africa in a line. When near the entnuwe ef Oihraltar Bay we be^sn to ftel the ebh^de aetttaig hito the Medi-

** Captain Joha llugan, of Liverpcx)!, who commanded the schooner Morning Star, (prior to me,) told me that at one time he was twenty-five days betmCB Cl^ Tiaft^iarand GibndtST, both wfaM

and current being constantly unfrivoitrable.

<*We have now, at least, sufiiaeut authority ior the Saai of the current ftomeumes setting to ttie

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Captain Barret, an old trader to Gibraltar, informed Captain Livlnfrston, in Aug\jst, 1320, that, in his last voyage he had found the current set, foi abuut three hoim, decidedly to the westward, when he was off Tangier Bajr; but the surface water ap- peared to be going to the eastward, while the westwartl current had hold of the vessers bottom. Capt. L. adds. An intelligent master of a London ship says that, when at 7. fFMer says, he has been obliged to have m man at tlie friieel steering bb ibip rar the tide, when at anchor under Cape Spartel.

It is clear, therefore, that the current of the Strait is, in a degree, regulated by the tide, and will, according to the time of tide, set at the rate of from 3 to 0 miles. VVest- ynatd of Tarifit, it tometimes, about the full and change of the moon, aeti to tiie wett* ward, quite across the Strait; but eastward of Tarifa it -^ott, more or less, to the eastward. To this information, communicated by Mr. Ignatiwt Reiner, Pilot, of CKb* raltar, he adds, that with westerly winds, at the full and dmnge of tile moon, the current in the middle of the Strait, between Eui opa Point and Ceuta, somelimet sets at the rate of more than 7 miles an hour. At such times every point in the bay forms a whirl or an eddy, some of which are heavy and dangerous, at a considerable distance from

It follows that, in jrwwnrf, a msel from tiie Atlantic, with an easteily wind, may

easily beat through the Strait, into the Mediterranean, by keeping and tacking between the two boundaries of the central or eastern current ; but always nearer to the coast of Barbary than to the opposite shore; the wind near this coast being always the more moderate ; for even when in the vicinity of Tarifa, the east irind is strong enough to put a ship past her clo^p-reefed top?nil? Should the wind bp very strong from the East, or the weather seem to threaten a tempest from S.£.^ take shelter, until it moderates^ ndcr Cape Spartel, before yon attempt the Strslt.

If, whoi in tiie Strait and bonnd eastward, tbev shoidd be an indieatfon of tempes*

tuous weather fi*omthe 8.W., it may be proper to run for, and take shelter behind, the Almina or CeitM Point, in the T^ay of Ceuta, where you may He to, and find the Wind and sea uiodciate. iSee, with respect to this bay anii its aachoiages, page 6.

MEDITERRANEAN SEA. - In settled weather, therefore, and under ordinary cir- cnsBStances, when the great current has its regular course into the Me^terranean, we may calculate that, on the African coast, generally, a ship sailing eastward towards Sicily will l>e set a-head of her reckoning : ^for it has been ascertained that, between Sardinia and the nuun, the eurrent, under such circumstances, sets eastward; as it does across the mouth of the Gulf of Tunis, and along the southern coast of Sicily. The current to the S.E., in the Channel of Malta, is at times so strong that ships have found it difficult to beat up to Maritimu ; while others driven to leeward of Malta, have been obliged to carry a press of si^, in order to hold tiidr own until a change of irind

«DoQ Tomas Tidal, of the college of S. Tehao, at Malaga, «kc, bi a Spanish man of wsr off

ITarifi^ fimnd the current setting strong to ilip westward.

'* My respected friend, the late Captain VVm. Hogers, of the Counteu of Chichester, Falmouth packet, and latterly commanding a packet on tiM Holyhead itslion, inlbraied me that he tirice

found the current setting strongly out."

* In ike investigation (jf Currents, tlie temperature of the different streams \m» become an inte> resting subject. On the Slst of August, 1820, the tempeialaxe in the Bay of Gibraltar, nearthe shore, was r,'>° ; m deeper water, 64^ On standing across, southward, Od'^and 6&*i and at last, in the middle ot the easterly current, it exceeded 7(r. On the of September, In the Bay, near shore, it was 69% and hi edicr ports after a 6edi Levanter or easterly wind had piev^led &r ssToral days*

We lind the Mowing lemark tn Capt Liringston's Journal of the ISth Sept. 1820. « First part

of !li ' twenty-four hours we "teemed to be out of the penenl current, and in the tide-stream, as we evidently drifted nearer to Gibraltar, we stood off to get into tlie current, and did so. Before we entered It, the sea, at the edge of it, seemed to be two or three feet his^luT than elsewhere. When we got into it we had a considerable tweU, though the water was ery smooth before." A nmilar remark has, we bellere, been made by Capu Edw. Sabine, as to the elevated sturfiwe of me mitbt n Gulf Stream.

The Depths of Water, in tiie middle of the Strait, are remarkable. On the meridian of 1 aogier the central depdiis 190 fathoms; on that of Tarifii about 400 ; on thst of Gibraltar, 750 fathoms; and, at two leagues t^irthcr ertstward, no bottom at 1000 fathoms. So that there is, from Westto East, a r^ular inciiued plane. Ibis is «ven from the respectable authority of Cqptsm W. H»

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enabled tbetn to make the island nc^jxin. We may thus accottnt, in some degree, for the loss of vessels in that region ot mist and terror, the Greater Surtis, or Ou^f qf SidrOp nAerein there is a jgrmt swell aad aocttmulation of water with N. W. windt.

The current doubtless continues eastward along the Libyan coast; and we have no- tices of its generally setting E.N. K. off Alexandria - thence advancing to the Coast of Syria, we find it setting northward, along that ahote, where it acquires strength. Ct^ fofai Beanfmt has shown that, between Byria and the Archipelago, there is a constant current to the westward, slightly felt at sea, but very perceptible along shore, on a part of which it runs with considerable velocity. Opposed by the western const of the Gulf of Adalia, it rushes with augmented violence towards Cape Khelidouia, wiiere, dllBwiiig itself in the open sea, it again becomes equalized.

4. Remarks and Directions, for the use of Vessels bound from Gibraltar westward, to the Ocean.

With a fair wind t^rrrc can bo no difficulty in pas^inir hence through the Strait, at- tending only to the Tides and Current, as they have been described ; but vnih an ad* verse or westerly wind it is far otherwise ; and the following precautions and directions must be obsmed, in order to make the passage, wl^h can be effected* under such dr-

DiBEcnoprs for small ve**el* boutul westward, from Gibrnlfnr, tptth tpesterly icind. - In general, all fast-saUing vessels from the eastward, of frotn 3U to (iO tons, may pass through the Strait with a^ht wind Iromthe West and N.W., by working as follows:

After weathering Europe Poin^, you enter Gibraltar Bay, and hcnoe approach the

Euseimda de Getare/t on its western side; and, when you find that the ebb-tide is making, you may approach Caroero Point, keeping at a moderate distance from the coast, and between it and the edge of the easterly current. The stream of ebb at Carnero Point runs soqth-westward towards the ¥iaUa del Frayle; and, on entering into the evolution of the tide off Point Aroliuche, you may find the regular flux and reflux by keeping within the limits above-mentioned : by keeping this dii-ection, as the eddies off Pomt Apebuche move towards the west, you ynW be carried by the force of the flood-tide into the Cwe qf Tohua,

All this must be effected in the morning, at which time the wind is always off the

land : and, from this reason it is advisable for ve<i«<ds to anchor durin^f the previous niglit ui the Cove of Getares, until day-light : for u is not sale tu work at night, all the coast being skirted with rocks.

Pouit ^(^ebuche, which is Similes south-westward from Point Carnero, is the most difficult point in tlie Strait to weather when the wind is ftnm t1i'« 'vpst ; for then it has several eddies about it, and is dangerous, particularly to the Imger vessels, which re- quire much attention in tacking ; and none should approadi too near, as all the coast from the Puuta del Frayle to that of Apebuche is skirted with rocks, and the Peart Hock, as already shown, (page 3,) lies at nearly a mile from shore. It is not safe to stand near the latter, for, when tacking seems mo&t necessary, you may be prevente4 here by the eddies and the change «f wind, and run the risk of being lost

After passing Tolmo castle, wMeh is a mile to the nortbowestward of Pcint A^eboehe,

while the tide continues favourable, short tacks are to he made; taking care not to fall within the line of the central or easterly current, whicli is clearly defiued by a ripple. With a light wind care must likewise be taken not to stand in too near the shore, be- tween the Points of TofTfi de Guadalmeti and CaHoiro, the ground'toan extent of 3| miles being very fonl.* Point Camorro is very dangerous^ having many rocks about it* one of which lies at a cable's length from the shore.

IFken near Tarifa, with little wind, should the tide-stream begin to change, you must

- Hereabout you may see a remarkable notch, on the top of a psirt (>r ilie range of hills extending firom Gibraltar Bay to Tari^ The annexed sketch of it was tsken at san-set, 16th Nov. 1820, by Cnpl. Lmngtton, when it was in a line with the Tare dt GuadtOmeiit and bearing N.E, | B. lN»ir,S, i &]

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anchor ia 9 or 10 fftthoms, at about half a mile from the islaad, the lantern bearing West; for* by keeping under way, yoa would be swept to the eastward hjr the stream of

ebb, and thereby lose all the labour spent <Iurlii<; the flood : but, so soon as the tide again turns, you should get under sail, as the anchorn<^e near Tarifa is not secure.

When you have advanced to the westward of Tarifa ligUhmte, take care to avoid the Cabezos and other shoals, lying as described on page 3. In order to avoid these and secure your passage, it will now become necessary to stand over fo the Barbary coast, keeping a good full, in order to get, as soon as possible, out of the stren .'th of the central current, setting towards the East. After passing through this cun*ent, towards the CaJii Onade, oa tibe Mnrtfti Aor^ ahert lacks must be.m&, within and near Hie edge of the line of tide, so at to avoid tiie several rocks lying or eztendiiig from*

After weathering the western point of the cove, Cala Grande, and the cove Cola Maea, it is necessary to tack, comparatively at a farther distance, owing to the great vortexes of the sea running rapidly towards the N.W. By working in this manner imtil after weathering Cape Malabatf you may thence work out at pleasure.*

Shoiild not the flood be strong enough for weathering Cape Malabat, and the vessel be likely tu be driven back by the ebb or contrary stream, it will be re(][uisite to keep ' under cover of the cape, or to talce shelter hi the cove Cob Grandet because, with a

stream setting eastward, there are eddies under the three points eastward of Malabat, which run to the west, and, therefore, regulate the tacks at a proper distance from the coast. This coast is very dangerous, there bein^ rocks off the different points ; and < another reason for not attempting to anchor near it is, that the Maroquins, at times, conceal themselves behind bushes nenr the ^hovp, and thence fire their long mtiskets^ for the sake of plunder, of which the consequciK e may be fatal.

Having arrived to the west of Cape Malabat, when the ebb begins to abate, you may anchor, if desirable, in the Bay of Tangier, with the marks given in page 6. The best spots are in 7, 8, and 10, fathoms, gravelly bottom. During southerly winds, as well as

easterly, the sea comes in very high into the bay, causing the vessels at anchor to roll very much i and even with a iresii wind hum iS.W., a very high sea aud swell come round fromi Cape Spartel.

IjABOb Vbssbu, bwtut Westward. - It would be useless for the commander of a lai^ vessel to attempt a pas-^atre through the Strait of Gibraltar from the eastward, v^nth a wind from the west i because the central current then runs to the East with great ra- pidity, especially during the new and full moon ; and becaose the variation of the wuid will not allow a large square-rigged vessel to approach near enough to the shore to take advantage of the eddies. In this case, if a ship has arrived from the east to a situation between Ape's Hill, oa the coast of Africa, and the Ppint Acebuche, on the coast of Spain, the lieat way is to come to an anchor in the Bay of iSbraltar$ otherwise aha may be driven back bto the Mediterranean Sea.

Great precaution must be taken in the Strait when there is a fog or haze, irt order to keep in the middle as much as possible. The commanders of vessels of war, in parti- cular, when cruising in the Strait, must be very careful during tempestuous winds from tho Kii^t andS.E. ; for such wmds are accompanied by a very heavy and brokeo-seay and the current then runs with rapidity towards the N.W., that is, to the coast of Spain. It is, therefore, necessary, when to the eastward of Europa Point and the Almina Point <^ Ceuta, to stand well over to the southward daring ue night, in <Mrder to avoid the fitte of inaiiy veaseU that have been wrecked at the back of the Rock of

It is useless for the commander of a vessel, whether large or small, to continue in the Strait with a boisterous wind from S.W., as the eddies then swell the sea very much,, and render it very dangerous, particularly in winter. The safest way of acting, in this

ease, is to run for the Bay of Gibraltar, and anchor in from 14 to 5 fathoms, in clear saudy ground, so '..oon as the Devil's Tower comes in sight.

- Upon tlic principle here explained, H. M. Mortar-vessel Hamoaze, Captain Mac Causland, pro- ceeded through the Strait, on the 11 th and 12th of August, 1824, when she beat through with a wiudat W. by N. aud fresh breezes; beinft, at the same time, encumbered v^th a heavy-laden metvhant ship under convoy and la tan we have been wlrnmed tiiot a swnter opemtion had never faelbie lieen perfiinnea in tbe Straitt by eny of his Ifidesiy's ships or vesseb of w»

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5. DIRECTIONS voe SAILING through the Strait, both from #jle Wbstward and Eastward.

An degant writer, in noHdng die passage into the Mediter- mean Sea, says, " We speak from personal knoiidedge when

we say that, the rival mountains of Africa and Europe, vying with each other in grandeur and sublimity, the singular appear- * tnce of the almott insulated rock, jutting out into the tea, the narrow passage at the entrance, giving the idea of the waters of the Atlantic having forced their way, in spite of every ob- stacle which nature opposed to them, and all enlivened by a brilliant sun, and n tint of colouring peculiar to southern lati- tudes, constitute a panorama of unequalled sceneiy, of which it is difficult to form any just idea but from actual inspection.'' The scenery through the Stn^ indeed, is line, and presents a grand assemblage of the magnificent features of nature.

'* On a calm day in the Mediterranean, the rays of the sun, deeply refracted in dark blue waters, give them all the appear- ance of the changing and uidescent hues of mother of pearl.

" Till every wave, with crimson huSf Shall tinge ita iridescent blue."

Veuti» bound to OibraUar from the wetttpard, having passed the Cabezos and Shoals, described in page 3, should haul in for the Spanish Coast, especially if the wind be to the north- ward of the west, otherwise the current may carry them to the eastward of the rock. When St Roqne town is open to the eastward of the rocks off Cape Carnero, they may haul in for the Bay, giving the Cape, and the points within, a good berth. Having run up the Bay so far as to open the Devil's Tower, which stands at the N.B. end of Gibraltar, steer for it, and an- chor in what depth you prefer, mooring S.E. and N.W., so as to have an open hawse with a S.W. wind. During wwt, ships Heneralijr anchor off the New Bide.

][f Aonmf Info the Bay, from the eoBtuMrd, witii the wind blowing fresh, you must take care to keep to leeward, out of the eddy-wind of the Rock, and stand in to the north part of the Bay to the shore, by the lead, where the soundings will be found regular, as ahreadj dcacrihed. Tom op along shore, taldng care, when standing to the southward, to tack so soon as, or before, you come to the flaws from the rock, which are very per* ceptibie. When you liave advanced as to the windward as if desiralile, anchor as above.

In sailhig out of the Bay, from the anchorage, with a strong easterly wind, set no square sails untii you have advanced to leeward of the flaws.

Should you happen, when coming in from the w e st wa r d, to

he carried by the enrrent behind, or to the eastward of, the Rock, good anchorage may be found in 20 fathoms, with Eu- ropa and Cabrita Points in one, and the Devil's Tower just open. There are gradual soundings to the Rock, shoaling to 4 fathoms. From the anchoring ground here, you may, by taking the western tide, turn into Gibraltar Bay, observing to stand but a very little way oflf Europa Point. You may easily perceive the ripple between the current and the tide ; and, when you think that you can weather Europa Point, it is not advisable to Stand into the Bay, but make a short tack or two in the tide that sets from Europa PMnt to Cape Carnero; otherwise you may get into the eddyotide, which will talce you on the weather-bow^ and deceive you.

tFhoicaimi^down the Mediterranean, in order to ran through the Strait, if the weather be dear, tlie Rock of (Hfamkar may be Hen at the distanee ol 40 mfles, appearing like an island, higher to the North iSUUk to the Sottth. At the same time. Apes' Hill, appear- injT al«o like an island, may be seen ; so that the Mouth of the Strait will be quite open, and you may enter it boldly. Here it becomes requisite to notice, however, that, ki» be- yond the North efid of Gibialtar tbe land is low, idth a flat shore, beyond which, on the North, are several high mountains : this appearancp hrL% caused many, in the night, and in hazy weather by day, to mistake this part for the Strait's Moutb, by supposing the Rock of Gibraltar to be Apes' Hill, in Barbary, and those nountaint to be ue Roek : thus have they run on shore. Similar mistakes have been frequently made by mistaking Apps' Hill for Gibraltar, and the low land in CeutaBayfor the Strait's Mouth: the ooo- sequences have, in course, been equally fatal.

In order to prevent sucii misfoitunes, Tofino recommends that all vessels, under similar eiraiunstances, should make the coast of SfMun, ranning down antil the Sierra of E«te-

pona (iiit. "f^^'js') comes in sight, which vvitl, l>y its position and bearingSi toaaatten^

tivc maiiiicr, roarlily point to the situation ol tiibia'tai'.

In advancing from tlie eastwaid, towards Gibraltar or Ceuta, you may probably make lUie hlet Alboran, which, when bearing W. by N. 5 miles distant, appears as in the wmeied figure.

This isle lies nearly on the meriditn of Adra, In latitude 85^ 66' 90", or 35** 67', and

longitude 3°0'55" W. It is about half a milt.- in lent^th from East ta Wtst, and one quarter in breads. It is of moderate height, and can be seen, in clear we <ktlu i , at the distance of about 4 k^ues. The south side is nearly perpendicular ; the uurth side less so, and the surfMe nearly level. At about half a cable's length fi-om the east end la a wmall islet or rock, and there are breakers all round to nearly the pamr- dist incc. There is anchoring ground off the East end, in from to 3U fathoms. In the vicinity uf the island the cnnrent, in general, sets strongly to the eastward.

At a little to the soethward of Alboran, and 98 miles more to the east, is a BmiSt,

4 miles in extent from East to Tf'est, true, and having over it from 37 to 50 fathoms } its breadth is about 2 miles. Its place may commonly be ascert«uned by the ripple of the

A Shoalt which requires attention, lies in latitude 36° 20^', at the distance of 25 miles castle Guardias Vieja*. This is small, hut described as havin^;^ some dangerous SpotS Oil it, and should, therefore, be careiully avoided, especially tluiiai; a heavy sea.

From the Isle Alboran, Europa Point, on the eastern side of Gibraltar Bay, bears 37 leagues. AUowanoe mustf of ooorse* be made for the cuirent^ which sets aa al^cive

Directions for Sailing from Oibraltar watward, wUh adoarte wiadi, ham been 4^ead^ given. See page 12.

II. 27te COAST of SPAIN, from Gibkaltab to Cape

Sta. BARBARA, &c. - At the distance of 3 miles N.N.E. from the S.E. extremity of Europa Point is the Fort or Castle of St. Barbara, which forms the eastern extremity of the Spanish Lines. At a mile and a quarter, in the same direction, from Fort St, Barbara, is the Battery of Tunara; and, at a mile and a half farther is the Tbrre Nuem, or Nem Thwer, situate on a rocky point. At f( miles N.B. | E.- from the Torre Nueva, is the tower of CarbonerUf beyond which, 2^ miles, in nearly the sause direction, is the

wmtb of the River Guadiaro^ which is entered^ by coasting vessels, at high water. The

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rocky and projectinff point, named La CMhrot is S\ miles B.N.E. ^ E. from the montii of tbe Guaifiaro: tuEs point haa a tover on it.

From FoBT Sr. Barbara to Chollbba Point, the coast is, in general^ a low heach'i hut there are several rocks nesr it, some of which are above the water. At Chnllera Point the coast begins to ascend ; and at N.E. ^ N., two miies from it, near the water's edge, stands tlie cattle of SabiniUa. Between is a rock, called Al-corin, about the sise

of a ship's launch, at the distance of a cable and a half from shore. The small town, named Mantlvu, stands on a hill, at abuut half a league iolaad from SabiniUa Ca^^. On the coast aie several rivulets of fresh water.

At half a league N.E. f E. from SabiniUa Castle, is the tower del SaUo de la Mora, sumMinded with rocks. A large shoal, or sunken rock, lies S. hy B. two cables' length from this tower: it is a litti o ah ovp the surface at low water, but is, at high water, entirely covered with breakers. An islet, close to the land, and called Lot Fahmof, lies half a Bule N.B. by B. ^ E. from the tower.

EST£PONA. - ^The two principal towns between Gibraltar and Maliiga, are £*tepom and Murbella. Of th^se, Estepona is the lar^'est and most considerable ; the church, wi»li its high spire, is a remarkable nhjrrt. Tin town stands close to tlic shore on the low ground extending southward of the ISierra Bermeia, (pronounced Uermeha,) which is abo called the Mottntwn of Estepona.

The Ptanta dela Donoelia, wMeh forms the waston vde of tlie little bay of Estepona, is 3| miles N.E. by E. | E. from Mora Point* The N.E. point of the same is Marmoles Point: between the two, which are a mile apart, is a good road for small vessels in 4 fathoms, and for larger in from 14 to IS fathoms, with shelter from north-westerly winds, opposite to the town of Estepona* wliich lies aboot a mile up from shore. The direct course and distance to this place, from Europa Point, are N.E. h Iv \\.N.E. \ E.^ 7 leagues. There is said to be a shoat at about 3 miies S. by £. [ii.E. by 3.} from Estepona, which must be carefully avoided.

On the western side of Estepona is the River Monte Roxo, where, even la summer, plenty of fresh water may be had. On the beadi, before the town, there Is, besides^ another watering place.

To the N.W of Estepona is the high range of mountains, called the SiEnnA De Estepona, or JJenneia, akeady noticed on page 15, and which constitute an excelleut mark for all this coast. ^ The Towbb of Gualuaza stands on a plain, at 4| miles E. f N. from Estepona : a sandy point stretches from it to the soathwnd, to the distance

of two cables' length.

On any part of the coast hence to Europa Point, vessels may anchor, during West or N.W. winds, at about a mile from shore; or they may lie-to, and, by taking advantage of the tide, may ply to windward, ontil they (gain the Bay of CKbraltar.

Nearly E. by S. 2 J miles from the Tower j^tA JT. ly £ i &

of Gualmaza, is that of Bancs, seated on a

saad-hiU at a quarter of a mile to the N.W, „gs^^^^^^\^>^^

from a low sandy point of the same name. ^^^^^^^^t^%^^^^^u^

dillo, northward of which, 3 a)il(:'s, is Monte JflHHMi^wHNHHWH

Mayor, a remarkable hill, with u ruiacd Swmiutitf tlukifkttttiunnU«ibeimt€»ikuseqf

CMtle upon it. MarMlaundBUqim,,

-The Castlb of Sr. Ltris and Town of MAmBBLu, stand at the

distance of miles E. ^ N. [.V. 0'5^ E."] from the tower of Banos. The castle stands at half a cable from the beach, and a ledge stretches about two cables from it to the south-eastward : the rocks nearest the shore appear above water, but those farther out are always covered. From the castle, westwardly, along the beach, is a range of ware- houses and stores, from the most westerly of which an jther ledge of rocks and stones extends about two cables to the S.E., but with good water over it : the anchorage is be> tween the two ledges, in 8 lidioms* biMom of sand.

The town is connected with the n<nth part of the caatle, where plenty of fresh water may be easily obtained. Lai|^ shipa may come ta^ at a mile from the town, Mmthward,

in 18 fathoms, sand.

MarbeUa teems to be only a small town* without any very remarkable buildings, ex-

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cp]>rinL; one appearing lilve a convent ; near the? town are some patches of plantation, probably sugar-canes, which are represented to be cultivated here ; and a laix'r house, with many out-buildings above the town, may be the residence and works of tlie planter. Marbella stands close to the sea-shore, at the foot of the Sierra de MarbeUa, and im-

tncdialely South of the Peak of Jii:<na on the same mountain. OfT ^^arb^lla SOODflillga were taken in 32 fathoms, sticky bottom, about half a league from the shore.

To the N. W. from St. Luis* Castle is the high land called the Sierra de Marbella, and more to the eastward is the little Pwk qfJuana ; both aeiTe» like the Sierra de RHt- fMmn, as useful marks for the coas^ and as a i^dance thence to Gibraltar.

The Tower of Lancr de las Canvas, which stands 6f miles from the Castle of St. Luis, is thrice the size of tlie t^^piierality of the towers on this coast. It «tands clo.se to the beach, which is bordered with rocks. In thu interval between are two other towers, ind the shore is dean.

The CovK and Point of Buaaa, In lat. Z6° 30' 50", are 2 J leagues to the eastward

of the Tower of Lance : a lar^^e tower stands, likewise, on this point, and there are several smaller between. From Burra Point, at the distance of a mile and three- i|uarters N.E. i E., is the Cattle of Frangerola, at the top of a litUe htll ; under which is anchoring ground, in from 7 to Q fathoms, off a low heach, or farther off, if more a^reeHhlc, in 10 and 1% fathoms. Water auay be obtained from a river « little to the N.E. ut the castle *

We now approach the elevated and rocky sliore to the north-eastward of the Bay of Frangerola, and which temdnates the Sierra Mijar and Sierra de Junquera. The 3*orre

Ulanca, (White Tower,) stands a mile and three-quaiters N.E. J E. from Frangerola Castle ; and eastward, at about 2| miles from Torre Blanca, stands Torre Quebrada,on A projecting puiat. Between these towers stands another, Bella /llmadena, northward €i which is the town of the same name. At a mile beyond the tower last mentioned, and at some distance from shore, is a ^'inken rock, about the sise of a ship's hull^ witk 9 feet over it, and on which several ships have struck.

The Torse Bbrmeia is a mile and a quarter from that of Bella Almaneda. The rock just described lies about half a mile to the southward of it. At a cable and a half east-

ward from Torre Bermeia, is the Point of Saltillo, with a ledge of rocks extending about two-thirds of a cable to the S.E. Between this point and that of Torre Quebiada, to

half a league seaward, the bottom is of rock, and the water deep.

The Castle and Point of Torre Molinos lie half a league N.E. by E. from Torre Ber- meia. The point is low, and lies in lat. 36^ 37^'. Here ships may occaskinally anchor, ani the tract of ground, off the low shore, extending hence to Malaga.

MAXiAOAy the Malaca of the antients, stands in latitude 3f>"4T^', and longitude ^° 24' Id" W. This port is now distinguished by a light-house, which e&hibits au ex- cellent revolTing light : eadi face shows seven leAectors. When seen from a ^stance, the light is obscured for three-quarters of a minute, and a very hright light succeeds for 15 seconds ; it thus revolves in every minute, or, at least, brightens and obscures in that time. The light may be distinctly seen at the distance of about six leagues.f

From the Point of Molinos, the distance to Malaga is 2^ leagues : nearly midway between is a projection of the eeaat, apparently foroMd by the stream of the Rk> Gordo, which extends a mile outward. Vessels from the westwarri for Malaga, should pa^s the Point of Molinos at the distance of a leasue, and thence steer so as to keep the town Malaga on the larboard bow, which will lead them clear of the bank. The lantern on the Mule bearing N.N.B. INorth,'] wiU lead dear of aU danger, or not approachuig nearer than in 04 fathoms.

In making Malaga, from Pnint Molinos, with the wind at 8.W., so soon as yon have cleared the Point of Hio Gordo, you will generally find the wind drawing more and more from tiie land. Sbipt of the line ought not to run Ibr the Mole of Mali^ when

* Frangerola Castle u autient, and has five or six small towera.

+ " Malaga U esteemed the second port in Spain, and is celebnted for its exeaOent wines^ the

rich Malaga, tlie MounUun, so c;illcd from the hills which piu>liKO tl>e -:rripp, and the Tent, or Tinto. so styled irom its deep red tinge. Malaga standi in a valley, surrounded with hilla, the

blows hard from the South or S.W., which would only expose them to danffer ; but with the wind strong at S.E. or East, they may brinj; up, by letting go two anchors, as closelv pos'^iM'' tn tfip Point of the MoTe ; so that, by veering out only half n raWc on each Hnchor, they will be able to ride it out : but, without that security they must be lost. ]t is clear, however, that they should not stand for th« Mole, vnlm Id a oate of obump- gency : it irill be much safer, if poiwble, to keep out to sea.

Within the Mole, wUcb is hi the eastern side, there is water sufficient for ships of the line, but they naust lie moored head and stem, parallel to it. In the Road, which is about a roile from the Mole-Head, there is a depth of 8 and 10 fathoms, on muddy ground.

Malaga may be readily known from sea by an old castle, which stands on a hill behind the town, hai^ng whilU walk, which communicate with tlie town : these walls are dis- tinguishabl^ at a great distance; and, on a nearer approach, you may distinguiab the great church, which stands in the middle of the town, near the sea-side.

Captain Livingston has described Malaga, &:c. as follows : *' Malaga is a large town. Irregularly buil^ its most remarliable object, on advancing from sea, is the superb cathedral, with a tower or steeple of 1 10 varas (Spanish yards) in h - ii^bt . this building is coloured yellow, and directly facen the entrance of the port, llie next most remark- able object is the Custom-house, ivhich stands nearly true South from the Cathedral ; it Is a very lai^ building, and looks much like a barrack. Many of the finest buildings in Malaga, incbj^inr;^ all those on the Alameda, a public wall^, arc built on ground which has been gained from the sea. The Alameda is a very handsome place, (south-westward from the cathedral,) with a row of trees on each side of it, outside of which is a carriage- mg, then a low wall» and again a paved carriage-way, with very handsome houses.

To the eastward of Malaga cathedral there rises a hill or mountain, on which stand the remains nf tbp Moorish castle of Gibralfaro, once a flace of considerable strenc^th, and all the walls being white, it forms, out of the town, fully as conspicuous an object as the cathedral does in it$ and the atept or road, between inlls* leading up to it, ap-» pears, from n diataQce, like a large wgva stair-case.

On the l()th of September, 1820, at \\ p.m. Captain Livingston sounded in 23| Clithoms, when Malaga li<^ht bore N.E. (by compass) distant about three-quarters of a mile ; and at a little after midnight they auchored, in lei fathoms, the light bearing N.N.B. nearly » mile.

A shoal has grown np about the mole-head of Malaga, extending S.W. inclining to XVest ; but it crowns or surrounds the whole point to the distance of one-*^iNteenth of a mile. At the point you have about 14 feet, and immediately ground. The harbour, as well as that of Barcelona, is growing up. At pcesent tiiere is more water hiside than in the entrance of the channel, which has SO feet, but is narrow. The harbour was injured hy the French, who allowed ballast to be hove into it. The best anchornfj^e in the Bay, without the harbour, for large vessels, is in 1 1 fathoms, with the lighthouse and tower of the catbcflral in a line." .

Those intending to anchor in the Road of Malaga, should come-to, eastward of the

meridian of the Mole, advancing with rnution, ns thnr is a depth of 10 f;ithoms very near it Here you may remain, at single anchor, so as to be ready to get under sail, in case the wind should oiange to East or SJS., whether to weather Molinos Point, or to ran irithin the Mole.*

* The following General Du cctions lor Malaga have been communicated by a Cai^n of the

" Tlie only danger, in proceeding for Mnlijrn, is the low sandy point of the Rio Gordo, between Moiinos and Malaga, which runs oti' very shoal to the distance of a mile and a half: the sea breaks on it in blowing weather; the flood-tide sets directly on it; therefore, with light winds, it would be advisable to anchor, in order to avMd getting on-shore ; but, at the distance of 4 or A\ miles from the Mole-Head, you have no lonn^ngs. As you approach the Mole-Head, within a mile, or a mile and a quarter, you will have 20 fathoms, shoaling thsnoe, grsduslly, tO 8 fi|»l|ffiifff, whidl depth you will have within a cable's length of the Mole-Head.

" The tide-flows here at XII h., ftlll and change, and rises about 3 feet ; the current runs along shore about 8 hours each way. The flood sets to the westward. The best anchorage is in 11 fa- thoms, the Mole-Head N.E. \ E. distant about two*thirds of a mile, sandy bottom. AU ships, in stormy weather, unless it blows hard from the northward, must go into Uie Msle, as with any other winds they cannot fie out in the fLoad with saliety."

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¥mou MkMJLOk, xAtrwABD, to tbe dittanee of about 4 mitei, tiie ooMt b elevated, and

has sevcra! watch-towers on it, called the Cantalet : it then faUs ioto alow beach, to beyond the town of Velex MatH'^'a, or Old Malaga, which is 4^ leajrues to the eastward of Malaga. AU along the iow ^huie vessels may anchor, during sunxmci, an ttie ground is clear. In the eastern part of the beadi of Velez Malaga, a liver, forming a sand- bank, falls into the sra; it stretches, however, but a short way oiit> M thattbeio U attf> ficient depth for vessels to pass within half a mile of the shore.

VSXirSZ MAZiAQ-A.. - The town of Velez Malaga stands in an elevated sitaation, at a league inlaud. In the middle of it are two large steeples ; and, on the right, a kind of easlU on a little eminence, in the middle of a very fine plain, with levaral

gardens in it. Np;u ly opposife the town, near the sea-side, at the foot of two little mountains, is a small fort, with some fishermen's cottages, against which you may anchor In 8,9, 10, 12, or 13,fathomsof water. The anchorage is very convenient for all vessels, and sheltered from the wind at West, in 1 1 fathoma, bottom of sand and chalk; but it win be proper to have a warp out to the 3JBi.» to heare 00^ ahoold It be reqiusite to get undti- sail, with the wind in that quarter.

The preceding description is from Tofiho. The following is that of Captain Livingston.

This city is situated on the east side of a valley, the first of any importance to the eastward Malaga, and which has an agreeable and romantic appearance, although the summits of the hills which rise in it, (lower than the moiuitain range,) appear scorched and almost destitute of vegetation, while the summits uf the surrounding mountains, -hooting tfarir bare craggy peaks into the clouds, iu a thousand fantastic forms, are sin- gularly pictoresque, oay even partaln of sublimity. The appearance of the city is, like- ^se, extremely picturesqtte, and may almost compete with that of the Old Town of Bdiaburgh. Three spires or towers sue the most remarkable objects from sea- ward; the one whidi stands lowest on the slope is <^ a red colour, (probably bttUt of bricit,) the othw two are of a dirty white ; the highest of all seems to be a tower* square at top, and at- tached to a church, castle, or convent, on an eminence that commands the town, but in- signihcant in comparison with the surrounding mountains.

On the east &ide of Velez is a sweet little valley embosomed in the hills on three sides, but open to the sea, with neat clean-looking viUas and groves of orange and lemon trees, &c. At the entrance of this valley stands the Torre de Mar, or Sea-tower, nrar to which, on the east, is a snudlcr tower, incUniDg much to one side^ like the banging tower of tiddgOMnrth, in England.

To tile westward of the aacliorage of Velet is a singtilarly stratified mount, tiie rocks

of the strata being whitish colonred, like chalk ; aadat the west end of the mount a break looks like a chalk-pit, or quarry of white stone, while under the strata, at the east end of the mount, the ground looks like a sand-hill. In front of the mount, that is betareen it and the sea, stand one. or two small houses and a round tower $ to the east- ward of it stands a very conspicuous white house.

When Velez Malaga bears about N. by E., (by compi^'t,) the low ground in front of it, with thick groves of trees of the riche^it verdure, the hue appearance of the city itself, the neat looking villas surrounding it, and the high picturesque mountains encircling the whole, form a landscape hardly to be equalled. Two small villages or hamlets stand between Velez and the shore, the easternmost nf which seeing to have a church. nr)wn the valley, to the westward of Torre de Mai-, is the bed of a mountain torrent, at times dry or nearly so.

At N.B. by N. [M S,iB. true,] the two principal towers or spires of Veles

Malaga are in one, and when they bear so, the shore being distant about hitlf a league, the hi^^liest touer. as seen throi!<r|i the telescope, appears to be part of the remains of an old iui tre!)*^, (piubably Muoiiiih,) situated on a rocky mount.

The mouth of the river of Velez Malaga, falling from between two mountains, may be distingidshed by the low land between the mounts and a grove of high trees, appa> rently forest, on the banks of the river; while all the other trees, or almost all of them, appear to be fruit trees. The bank of soundings, in sun-shioe, may be clearly distin- guished, nmning out from the mouth of the river, as the water on it is quite green. With the mouth of the river, however, bearing about N. by E. ^ E. [iV. J fV .] about a mile distant, we got no bottom with 16 fathoms^ though the bank evidently ran about 4 wile outside us.

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TORROS. - At 8 miles E.S.E. ^ E. [E. 6° N.] from the point of Velez Malap^a, is the point and castle of Tobros. The land between continues low, and there is anchorage westward of the point, in 10 or It fttthotns, with olf*8hore winds. Thence to Nbrja, a league eastward, the coast is hi^h and precipitous, without beach. The road of Netja protects all vessels during winds from West and N.W., in 12 fathoms, bottom of sand ; hot, as it is open to the East and S.E., it is necessary to have an anchor out to the S.E. to he«ve oii, ahonld the wind happen to cluiag«. Plenty of water nay be had bat Ite oQ0f«f anee it troublesome.

HERRADURA. or Horse-shoe Bay, 7 miles to the eastward of the castle of Torros, is a small bay, having a watch.tower on each point. The distance between these points is a mile and two-thirds, and the depth to the bottom of the bay more than a mile. Here is a castle on the beach. Vessels may ooeasionally stop, but must be ready for a start, in cnsp of an adverse wind ; an, in such case, the only resource is to nm to the beach at the bottom of the bay, in order to save the crew ; the other part of the coast con- sisting ehUrely of rocky precipices, wMoh metiasng the watw* Good water may be had from a well wixhia the castle.

Eastward from the road of Hen'adura, the coast is high and rocky. A bay, called Berengiieles, afro!d»( occasional shelter, but it cannot be recommended to a stranger. To the East ot liiis is Almunecar, a small tovm, before wiiich there is an open ruad« -tead» to be used only in case of necessity* as Bast and S.E. winds blow very n-eqnently and itroi^ly here, espeeially in the winter.

A rourd watch-tower distinguishes Almunecar, and there are several other watch- towers on the coast to the westward. Eastward of Almunecar Point is an islet, with a amall fort on it : on the east of tbb is anchoring ground, 12 thorns, ease and sand.

VELILIA. - llie Towaa of Vculla, or Belilla, stands on a high point, milee to the eastward of Almunecar i on its eastern side is a small bay, with anchorage, but there are several rocks about it, off a cultivated valley. This tiuA, like others latterly

described, is open to the East and S.E.

WMrM. - INDICATIONS of EAST and S.E. WINDS. - By attention to the weather on this coast, it may commonly be known when these winds are coming on: for, when the horizon is overcast in those quarters, with thick whitish clouds, it may be considered as almost certain that the wind is about to blow from those points of the compass; and, as the commencement of the gale, although of short duration, is gentle, -there may be time to get under sail before it lrc«hens or draws round to the 8.C, and it will be necessary to ride out the gale, wUdi sometimes blows very violently for seve- ral successive days.

From Veltlla, eastward, the coast is of moderate height, until terminated by the open shore of tSalobrenua, a small town, {the Salamhra of the antients,) to the southward m which is « rocky islet, at the distance of 3^^ miles from Velilla. Between, are two watch towers on the heights. The beach of Salobrenna is formed by the River Motril, the extremity of which forms a projecting point, under which ships may lie sheltered from easterly winds, all along the beach, in from 8 to l6 fathoms, mud, particularly under the Pennon or islet. From this spot, \\ ith the wind at west, a vessel may clear the point of the river; and, at the distance of half a mile, find a depth of 18 futhoms. With a S.W. wind, blowing on shore, there is no room to cast a ship ; and, in winter, that wind commonly throws in a great sea. At the foot of Che Idet, on the nortii side, dose to tiie sea, ia a plentiful apnng of freth water. ^

From the River Motbil, the coast continues low to Cafe Sacbatip, or the Poixt of Carchuna, which lies in latitude 36° 41', long. 3" '27\' W., at the distance uf 8 miles. In the interval stands the castle of the Bairadcro of Motril, at above 4 miles from the river, and 2 miles S, by E. true^ from the town. Three miles farther is a tower on the beach, with two guns. There is nnchoring ground along shore hercabnut, hut nn 'shelter. The country is pleasant, being covered with gardens and sugar-canes. Motrii. is a large town, abmil S miles from the sea, in a fine plain ; it has several convents nnd ohwches, which are seen on sailing along, with some groves to the westward : by the seaFside are several cottages of the fishers, with large trees behind them.

CAPS SACRATIF, or Point of Carchuna. - ^This headland, which has a round watch-tower on it, is the highest land of all this oofist, nin^^rprl and strep. On its eastern aide is the Cala del Chucluj, a small cove, dclcuUeii by u tuwcr witii one gun,

projecting point of sand, is tbe tower de lot Llano*, or of the Plains. The coast here- about is foul, and thero MO Boreral rocka near the land. Tbe vriioie plain hither from

Motril is uninhabited.

Tbe coast again consists of higli and rugjjed precipices to Point Melonar, which is a league and a half to the eastward of Cape Sacratif, and has a watch-tower on its sum-* mit. Hence, at 5;rven-tpnths of a mile E.N.E. | E , is the Caste! de Ferro, on the top of a hiil, at the base of which are two spots of low shore, betore which i&a good road during winds from N.W. to West j but, when it blows hwrd, they drive, as the cround, from this place, is of loose mad; and» with a S.E. wind, it is impossible to clear the land on either tack. To the ea^t is ati open beach, CambriUs, with a tower having om gun. This place is resorted to by vesseis coming to load with tpario, a species of grass or naat-weed, employed in mabinx cablet, &e. ; but it presents no advaatsgs as a place of genetal resort,, and nay be highly dangerous with an an-shore i^d.

RABIDA. - About 9 miles E.S.E. I E. from the Castel de Ferro is the smalltown and castle of Rabida, which are 2^ miles to the eastward of Punta Negra. The coast, having several watch-towers on it, continues in a true East and West direction, and is, in several places, foul and rocky. At about 5 miles E.S.E. from La Rabida, is the watch-tower of Guarrn The coast still continues h'l^rh to Adra, (the antieiit Abdera,) about 3 miles more to the eastward, where there is shelter for ships of any burthen, along the beach, in winds Irom ESast, by the North, to N.W. Nearest to the town, the depth is from 7 to 8 fathoms, with good holding ground, the castl* bearing N.E. by N, at about 2| cables' length from shore. Water may readily be obtained here.*

From the point forming the River of Abiia, tbe c^Rst eastward is low, and forms a - bay, in the bottom of which is the Tower of AlJamtUa, near which are several rocks. From the Tower of Aljamilla the low coast trends S.S.E. b\ miles; and, nearly mid- way between, is the Tower of Belermn. Vessels of every description may anchor between this tower and the S.E. point. El Moroi but a S»W. wind blows directly on-

On tbe More Point, which is higher dian the oAer part of tiie coast, stands the Castle of Qeerrfitty Viejat, and here commence the Llanos or Plains of Almeria. The coa-^t hence eastward, to the distance of 2^ leagues, trends nearly E.S.E., \Eatt] and a considerable part of it is rocky near the shore ; and in some parts are breakers, with tbe wind on shore, to the distance of two leagues from the land. The greatest projection is near the Moro Point, at the distance of a mile from which arr r ? fathoms, over a rocky bottom. Point Scntina, a projection of the beach, at 3^ miles eastward from the Moro Point, has a tower with two guns. The rocks before it extend about half a mile to the southward, and just without them is a depth of 7 fothoms.

The Tower de las 6WtiM» stands in latitude 36° 41', and longitude 2° 48|' W. The

Punta del Sabinal is rather more than 3| miles to the eastward of i^ and E. by N. from the latter is Punta de Elena j both are low and flat, but between them is a watch- tower, Ifos CMfbt.

From Pdnt Blena, northerly, 9| miles, to the Castle and Round Tower of RoquUot, tbe coast continues low, and affords anchorage for any vessels during S.W., West, and N.W. winds. They may come-to in any spot after pa.ssioif the parallel of the castle, but tbe common anchorage is in 16 fathoms, coarse sand, about a mile to the east [^K-N EJ^ from it: they may run in, closer to the land, to 7 or 8 fhtboms, but will be there more exposed to sotitherly and easterly winds, which are mostly prevalent here. The village of Roquetas lies above half a mile to the N.W. from the castle, and there is a rocky patch, of 9 fathoms, which bears from the Castle B. by N. \_N.E. by £.] about sbc- tentbs of a mile.

BAT of AUICBBXiL. - At 2^ miles N.K | N. from the Castle of Roquetas is the Tower of /ot nnjos or Baxos, having two guns. This tower has its name from some sunken rockii w hich lie about it, forming a kind of basin, which admits sumll ves- ids, and having a depth of S fathoms, sandy bottom. Its entrance is towards the south. On the north of the tower of Bajos, the land rises to a considerable he^ht, becomes

* Up in tfie country are the niounlidns of Granads, whicb commence near Vdss-Msbga, and end bermbout They are always covered with snow and fiigs.

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vteep towards tb« sea, and thus it trends to the eastward to the Point of Garroja, di«« tiii|niialied bf ft tower, distant itotn that of Lot Bajoa tlHNit 4 miles B. by N. [N. 67^

£.j Another tower, Uamhla HondOt stands at a mile and a half to the N.P]. from that of Garrofa, whence the coast trends East 3| miles, still continuing high to the PoitU qJ Torrefon, the western extremity of the Road of Almeria, and having a small fort.

ALMERIA, the antient Muaois, was once the most commercial city of Spaia, but itliftB IfttteilybeeB reduced to comparative imif^ificftnoe* and its exports ere chiefly

to the river, the shore trends to the S.E by E, nearly two miles. During an easterly wind, vessels are best protected here by luuui iiig to the S.W. of the bastion of La Tri* iddad, at the east angle of the city, in from 14 to 9 fatlioine, bottom of sand, at about half a mile from shore: the best general station is, however, to the W.S.W. or West [^fV.SJV.'] of the same bastion, in from 9 to K, (i, and 5, fathoms: the latter opposite to the barrack of the guards, where a cable may be made fast on aliore.

Them ie andiorage in the Bay in 14 fcthomi. bottom of Uae Glny> uriHi llie dmrcii N.B. by B; and Ftantn del Rios N.*B. ) B. This niay 1>e a nsefnl spot during a wcsteriy

Much of the anchoraj^e is strewed with ballast-stones, which have, from time to time, been thrown overboard from vessels resortiog to this port. These must be guarded against, as they are injurious tocaUes. From the fountuns in the town, |demty of fresh water may lie obtained.

From the sandy flat at the mouth of the i h rr, the coast continues low to the distance of 3^ miles E. | N., and forms the bottom of a bay larjzer than that of Almeria ; but the whole is foul, and affords no anchorage. There are i^ur towers on the 1»each, the last of which is that of Garcia. At about S miles from the latter, S.E. by B. | B. [8. 43^1?.] is that of 5. Miguel, where ships sometimes bring-to, for shelter from easterly or Le- vant winds. From this spot to Cabo de OatOf or Cape de Gat, vessels may anchor any where, with the cape liearing from 8.8.B. to B.B.B., the bottom, all along, being of sand, with 18 to 8 fathoms of water, within three cables* length from shore. The road, however, should be used only in case of necessity, as it is, from its situation, very dan- gerous during a S.VV. or on-shore wind; and vessels here must get under way on the first indication of its changing to that dbvclkm.

OAVB IIS OAV may be readily Icnown by the Torrt de Is Tetta, a watch-tower

on ito summit, in latitude 36^ 44% and longitude 2° 13' VV. At half a mile from the tower of La Testa, on the east, is the castle of S. Francis de Paula or Corrnlete, on a hill, which is perpendicular towards the sea: a lofty islet is close to it, with many steep rocks. Hereabout are many cross currents, which seem to be governed solely by the wind, and which add to the dangers of the coast. Among the 1 ittcr is a rock of white marble, at half a mile S. 4° E. [S. 26° E.] from the castle, with only 9 feet over it. There is a passage between it and the shore, with 6 and 7 fathoms, but it is not safe with a scant wind» unless to those perfectly acq;aainted with the coast.

From the casde of Comlete, eastward, the coast continues lofty, to a tower on the peak of a hill, Vela Blanca, so named from a white spot towards the sen, which may be discerned at a considerable distance. At 3^ miles, eastward, from this tower, is the Cmtle ofS. Jottf: the coast between is generally high and precipitous, with only one

small spot of beach. Port Genoves, which is occasionally made use of by small vessels. The castle of S. Josef is seated on a hill of moderate height, and on its eastern side is a cove, affording anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, but exposed to flaws and gusts of wind from the high land on the west, and to the winds on the Bast and S.B.

The Tower of Cola Figuera, at about a mile and a half N. 47° E. true, from the

castle of 8. Josef, take<^ its name from a ^mall creek, which alTcnds occasional shelter from easterly wiuds. Hence to the noith-eastward, i^out ow. mile, the coast is higli and steep. Here we come to a point, on which are two pyramidal hills, called the Fraylet or Friars of Cape de Gat, and which constitute the first land seen hereabout on coming in from sea. Beyond this, to the uorthward, is the Bay of MaAomst Arraat, dialing iiislu'd by the castle of St. Philip.

During West and S.W. winds, vessels may occasionally anchor here : the best spot is off the eastern side of the casHe, in 18 fisthoms,. coarse sand$ but the place is quite open to the East, 6.B.. and South : hence it Is reiotted to in the summer only.

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POLLACRA POINT and Towrr stands at the distance of 6 milflt to the north-east- ward from the towrr of Fij^^uera. An islet close by it apprnrs nt a distance liki^ d ship, and on it is a high round hili, Cerro del Lobo, surmounted with a tower. The coast now trend* to the north, fiwming serenl Mnall poiDtt and heye.

The eattle of 8. Pedro studi ftibont 3 nulea to the northwtrd firom the Loibo tower,

on a little bay, or indent, which contains the best anchorage about this coast. On the S-E. of the castle, at the distance of a cable and a half, are 7 fathom<», with sandy bot- tom, where a vessel may nde safely with the wind at S.VV., West, and N.W., North, and East : for, although it is open to the it haa been found tliat the stronger the wind blows from that quarter, or from east, without the bay, the more does it blow oflf ahore within, so that the only inconvenience is a little swell of the sea from without. The breadth of this cove is but lialf a mile, md the depth is less, so that it can hold but naanall number of vessels. The shore is billrand steep, with only one spot of beach under the castle, which stands so high as to command the road. Vessels He with n cable on-shore to the N>^.» and an anchor out to the S.W. There is a spring of good water iiear the castle, bnt it eannot be oonrejred, ^thont some trouble, down to the beach.

La M BSA de Roiaah, a high promontory of table-land, on the plab sammit of which

is a tower, stands at the distance of 3 miles to the north-eastward of the east point of S. Pedro. There is a small cove within it, nn the west, wherein coasters sometimea find shelter from easterly winds, but it is open buth to ttie b.E. and S.W.

Fkom the Mesa Point the coast trends N. 6° E. truet about S miles, with an open beach along shore. Here stand the castle, village, and islet, of CanBONEaa, eommttid- ing a road wnll defended from the West and S.W. Vessels may nnrhor in any part of it, on a clean sandy bottom ; but the most usual place is in 94 fathonis, at about a mile to the soodiward from the castle, or from the islet. But it is to be noted that, with a S.E. wind, there is no focm for vessels to cast off here, in getting under way, ao that

they must ride it out.

The Islet of CAnnoNERA lies ncnrlv half a mile to the "ioiith-eastward from the castle : the channel between is narrow, and lias nut, iu some places, a greater deptli than t fathoms.

MOXACA.<»-On the derated hmd, at half a league to the northward of Carbonera, is

a watch-tower, called Torre del Rayo. From the River Dallas, a brook to the north* ward of this tower, if weather permits, a supply of water may be obtained. The next tower, northward of this brook, stands on a large rock, and is thence called Torre del Peimom. Another, 'i miles more to the N.G., is called Ma$ena». Here the coast again becomes low nnd sandy to the Punta del Cantel ; 2i miles beyond which, to the north- ward, is the town <^ Moxacar, situated on the top of a hill, one mile up from the shore: belnad this are the high ridges of Cabrera, the highest of this part of Spaan^ which mnf be seen from Ckrtagena, or about 18 leagues off.

From Moxacar, in latitude S7^ 6', the coast continues low, for 2\ miles, to the castle of La Garrucha, on the beach of the town of Vkra, which stands N. JF. by N. trv^ S miles from the castle, and nearly as much from the nearest shore. No particular Bnchoring ground can be wcommended here. ' As the coast fomu a bight in this part,

the currents so lun, at times, in contiary directTons, as to form a whiilpuol or race, an approach to which may be embarrassing, if not dangerous. The Spanish survey repre-

RIO DE CUEBAS. - A small river, the Rio de Cuebas, falls into the sea in lat. 37^ IS'. Here tiie land again bMomes hi|^, and so continues to the nortb-eiistward 4|

leagues, or rather more. On the north side of the Cuebas is the tower of fiUaricos. Here foreign vessels from Cartagena frequently take in barilla, riding at anchor in ail winds excepting from the east. Northward of Villaricos commence a chain of moun- tains, the Siffrru ie F'Ufarleoe, which, although not very lofty, present a number of peaks, nnd extend to the point of the same name, a distance of 5^ mileg. The coast continueji high, and nearly iu the same direction, with a few projecting points ^| miles farther, and to the castle of 8. Jmm de lo» Ferreroi, The biter is seated ou a hill of moderate height, and steep toward the sea; there is a little cove on the west side of Ht, which is resorted to for barilla, &c.

From the C A<;ri f of S. Jva-s-, to the N E , the coast is of moderate height, but irre- gular, to the distance of 4^ miles. Here we arrive at the castle and Port of Aouii.as,

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in which frigates and smaller vessels may be sheltered from S.W, and West winds, in 6| fathoms of water, but the bottom in some spots b foul. At about 5 miles £. ^ [N, 79^ E."] from Aguila* Castle, is the elevated promontory called la Cabezo de Cope^ in lat. 37° 24f', long. 1° 33' W. This headland extends above a mile to the north- eastward ; it is precipitous and steep-to, but forms two anchoraojes, of which that on the west, Cala de la Bardinai will shelter many ships during an eat-iterly windj within two cables' length of the heaeh are 8 fathoms, bottom of sand. ^tUn a cable's length of the north side of the hill ai-e 13 fa^linmi, sea-weed, with some spots of sand, and some loose stones. The Almadrava or Tunny hshery is prosecuted annually in this bay; and there are shell-hsh, frequently adhering to the stones, which sometimes injure cables. The south is here an onpehor^ wind, hot it seldom blows, ewepting in the winter season.

The anchorage on the N.E. side of the Cabezo or Head of Cope, is sheltered by the ' land from S.W. and Westerly winds. It has a good depth of water, with bottom of sand and searweed. Should a storm be coming on, if not trom the N.E. or S.B. quar- ters, a vessd. maj take reA^ here, but most bring-to according to circumstaBces. The coast hereahoat ia uninhabited, eaocptiiig the tower of Cope, wiich has two guns.

Rather more than a league to the N.E. from Cope Head is the Cala Blancu, a little cove, which admits small vessels. The coast thence trends more to the eastward, about 3| miles, to the rocky point Calnegrat which has a iiat beach on each side, exposed to the S.B. The shore hence is of moderate height, to the distance of S\ nules, where a point stretches into tlie sm, and forms abroad black hcnd, with vhitr* s[ints on it, named Cueba del Lobo. Beyond this, to the east, an open beach forms a bight, more than 3 miles broad, to the tower of Almazabrok, where another and more extensile ba^

ALMAZARRON. - ^The eastern part of Almazarrcm Bay is hilly, and on its point is a tower, La Subida, which gives name to that part of the road. Here is excellent shelter from an Easterly and even a S.£. wind, to tiie northward of the tower, in 7i fathoms, bottom of sand, distant abont one-quarter of a mile. This is a conveiuent spot for vessels, which, having left Cartagena, are overtaken by an easterly wind. The bottom is clean ; so that half the road, at lea^t, may be used by ships under such circumstances. The winds from West, S.W,, and South, to which the bay is open, are easy in the summer, but in winter dangcroos, as they prerent Tessels from casting off and getting under way.

The western part qf Jlmazarron Bay is convenient, as an anchorage, during winds from West to South; but those from Kast to S.E. send in a heavy swell. The most eonvenient situation for lai^ vessels is on the N.E. side of the tower, upon the west head of the bay, at the distance of about a cable's length, where a cable is made fast on shore to the rock'^, u ith an anchor out to the eastward. Here is a depth of '/^ fathoms. At about halt a miie N.E. ^ E. from the tower, is a patcii of rocky ground, having Q fathoms over it, but dangerous to cables ; and there are two rodca above water, mth foul ground about them, within the bay. The village of AUCASAEBOV Stands at abont a league inland, to the nnrth-westwui d.

CAPE TINNOSU. - From the Capiv of La Subioa to Cape Tinnoso, which is high and precipitous, the coast trends Bast, about 2) miles. This cape lies in latitude 37^ SI', and bears from Cope Head East [N. Gq^° E."] igf miles. Beyond Cape ThmoSO the land takes a northerly direction, 3\ miles ; the greater part hilly and steep, until terminated by the small and low beach of Portus, to the N.E., at 3^ miles from the cape. From Porto^ on a tVM East direction, the distance to the entrance of Cartagena Harbour is 5^ miles* The const between is high.

Not far to the eastward of Poi tus i s the commencement of a hill, the Cabezo de RoU dan, which is descried from a greater distance than any other part of this coast. At the foot of tlus hill, and one-quarter of a mile from 3hore, is an islet, La9 PaUmoM, sur> rounded by foul ground. At 3| miles eastward from Portus is another smtJi island, Torrom^ very near to the shore, and two mtUs to eastward of which is the western point of the Harbour of Cartagena.

GASTAGSNA (Nova Cabtuaoo of the antients). - The western point of the Port of Cartafi^na, La Podadera, is of moderate height, and has a fort on its summit.

Close to the land, which is very steep, is a depth of 7 J fathoms. About one-third of a

mile to the north-eastward of Podadera Point is the point and fort Novhhul ; and oppo- site to this, on the eastern &ide uf the harbour, 15 the point and battery oi bta. Florentina.

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This is the naiTowest part of the barbouTi which is here little more than oae->tkird of a aile iHNnd.

Within Fort Kavidad, and towards the north, is the Gnaid MtjM^mador, or Great

Careenage, forming a small bavof 5f)0 yards over, and having a depth of 5^ to 4^ fathoms : it is the common anchoring-place for all ships of war. Off this place, at a quarter of a mile to the eastward, is the Harbour Shoal, La JUusu, a small reef, over which the depth it onlf 9 feet, and tteep-to all round. With a wind blowing freih inward, the sea brealcs over it.*

In the N.W. corner of the harhour is the Royal Ar cnnl, to the east of which is the City of Cartagena, in latitude 37° 35' 50", and longitude 1^' 0' 37" W. The uuburb of Santa Lncia extends down the eastern aide, which forms a small bay, having, on its south point, a powder-magazine, whence the shore becomes hilly to the battery of Sta. Florentina, already noticed. The harhour is one of the best in Spain, hein<^ a natural basin, surrounded by hiils. The arsenal is spacious, and protected by forty guns towards the water. The population is estimated at about 80,000. The principal exports are wool and iwriUa,

JVhena ship bound to Cartagena h off Cape Tinnofo, with a westerly wind, she should run along shore at a good distance, or about half a league, until she wrives at the Point of Podadera, and thence run northerly, along the western shore, at the distance of half a musket-shot, whence she may come to atichor in the Careenage already described* With a wind from the eastward, attend to the directions hereafter.

To KNTER the Poar of Cartaokna from the eastwabd, &c. - When a vessel is near, or in sight of. Cape de Palos, and bound for Cartagena, with the wind at East, she may keep along shore, at a reasonable distance, until she has advanced to the little isle Escomhrera, wliich lies without the eastern side of Carta<^ena. Having passed the south side of this isle, at the distance of a cable and a half, she should run to the West \W.SJV.'\ until Fort St. Anne, on the east side of the entrance, bears N.E, or N,E. by N. in order to clear a sunken rock, which lies about one-fiftb of a mile fiom l<2scombrara Island.^ Now haul to the northward as much as possible, until the sl ip's In id bean on the Fort Trinca Boiyat, which is the first on the east shore of the hai bour, and situate on an endnence. Do not approach too near to this shore, because it u foul ; and it is requisite to be the more cautious, because the wind draws more out of the harbour hereabout than farther off. it will, nevertheless, permit you to make over to, or even within. Fort Podadera, on the western side, whence you may come to an an- chor in 7it 8, or 9, fathoms ; and thence, sendin|j^ out an anchor, warp up witMn the harbour : for to turn in, when the wind without IS at £ttst« is both tecUous and dan- gerous, even to a good-sailing ship.

From off^ Ccmg PalaSt with a westerly wind, a ship for Cartagena must beat up to trindwardimtil the nuddle of the barboar Iwars due ATorfA, Irutf; thence, as abeady osplained, she may run Up within half a musket-shot of Fort Podad«a» and along tho

western shore to the Careenage or anchorage.

CURRENTS, &c. - OtT Cape Palos there is commonly a current setting to the south- eastward, with some degree of force ; and most so farther out. The coast between this and Cartagena is so far clean, that vessels may approach it within half a mUe : bnt, it

is to be ohser\'ed that, near Cape Tinnoso, the current frequently sets into the Bay of La Subida, on the west i and the probable effect is to he obviated only by requisite pre-

Winds from the 8.W. quarter, here called Bmanmes, are, during the summer, very Mgnlar in the Port of Cartagena, from 10 a.m. until sunset; and, in winter, they blow

throughout the night. To sail out of the harbonr, it is necessary to weigh in tfie morn- ing, with land-breezes, which, in moderate weather, generally last till 8 or () o'clock.

ANCHORAGE at CARTAGENA - Having entered the harbour, according to the pre- ceding directions, and left the shual La Laxa ^t about a cable's length on the starboard ^de, you may come to an anchor in 6 fathoms, bottom of mud $ and, Teeriug out two.

* This description will be dearly understood by referring to the^^particttlar plan of the haibottr, which is given on the Chart.

t This h a rock, having only 10 feet over it, about the size of a sliip's long>boat. Close beside it Uie depdils from 7 to 9 nthoon.

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thirds of a cable^, carry out another anchor, with two cables, to the north-eastward, so as to reni^n moored N.B. and 8.W. The practice is, after having let goth« first

anchor, to make fast a cable's end to a point of the rucks on shore ; and then, having carried out another anchor to tha N.fi., to weigh the firs^ and remain wit^ it, ready to

be let go agnin.

If warping in, with a scant wind from the N.E. or N.W., or OTcn between the East and S.B., first tet go aa anchor, with two cables, to the N.B. $ and, veering away what

may be necessary, carry the warp to the S.W., on wliich let go another anchor, or nutko

fast a cable's end to the rocks on sIhmp, aa described above.

To ANCHOR IN THE Bay itscIf, With any wind, first gain the middle of the entrance, and then steer, on the east of the Harbour Rock, directly towards ^e SHitietttt Caw, or Chrotto, whl<^ is on the projection upon the N.K. side of the harbour* Here, with the wind from seaward, let go the anchor, with two cables, in fath<Mns, muddy bot- tom i and, immediately running out another anchor to the N.W., yon will thus remain moored N.W. and S.E. With the wind off the land, let go the first anchor to the N. W. and the next to the S.E. In summer, it is usual to anchor here ; for as, in this season, the winds are not stronor, the cables do nnt suffer much. \x\ tliis Jituafion, the air will be found to circulate ireeiy, wiiicii is not tiie case ou tiie side ut the harbour, close under the hills.