Zone directory, 1908

Pilot and Guide. m

23. Ancon Hospital Entrance 167,

26. American Quartei-s, Culebra 188.

27. Old Atlantic Entrance to Canal 192.

28. Pacific Entrance to Canal 193.

31. Before the Trenches in Panama 210.

32. Sinking of theLautaro 214.

33. General Alban Entering Colon 217.

37. Plaza Bolivar, David, Chiriqui 236.

38. President and Mrs. Amador 245.

40. Scene on the Fiquene River, Darien 253.

41. Mapofthe Isthmus 267.

42. President Roosevelt and Hotel Tivoli 271.

43. Old Administration Building, Panama 278.

44. Administration Building, Culebra 286.

45. Trains Hauling Excavations 294.

49. Steam Shovel Ixxuling Train 320.

51. Inauguration of Water Works System, Panama 356.

52. Canal Zone Post-oflace, Cristobal 361.

53. Police Station, Cristobal 364,

55. Diplomatic Corps 378.

56. Alejandro Dutaiy 395.

50. Donaldo Vela.sco, Author, " The War on the Isthmus" 444.

61. United States Marines at Camp Elliott 519.

62. StarAHerald Building 522.

In submitting this, the first edition of the Pilot and Guide, the pubhsher does so, with the finn behef that it will meet with the approbation of its readers. He has departed somewhat from the beaten path of this class of books for the express purj)0se of meeting an insistent public demand, that of a work that will enable people in- terested in Panama and the Isthmian Canal to gain a clear and adequate conception of what has occurred, and is now taking place. Books have been published, and some of them very good ones, on various phases of Isthmian his- tory and events, but the publisher has tried and believes that he has succeeded in massing more "'meat of the Isth- mian cocoanut," than has ever before been printed between the covers of a book whose title page bears the well known name of "Panama."

To accomplish this end has been no small task. It has been a case of book-building from the ground up. Information and facts had to be hunted out of musty

nooks and comers^ and as much of the information could be obtaine<l only from tS|)anish )>r>oks and documents, care- on this book bavo gone back to thu times when the histor- ical incidents were in tlic making:, and in the c^ise of hitcr eTents, to kco and talk >vith i>eo|)lc who were on tlio spot and knew |)ersonally of the otrurrences related. Mistakes may hare crept in; a book covering a scopo of four hun- dred yeai-s would l»e a ixisilive wtwider without any, yet the publiRlier lK»lieves that the authenticity in general of the information herein contained will stand the test.

The workei-s on this volume realized that its readers will embrace many different classes, therefore anecdotes and incidents, all strictly true, have been introduced to illustrate a little of the humorous, and also, of the tragic side of Isthnn'an history. Another earnest effort was made to bring tlie book down to the year of Our Lord, 1908, and the work in this respect sj^eaks for itself. It is the only publication now in print that covers the recent and veiy important change in plans at the Pacific end of the canal, and of the decision to widen the canal locks: it is the oidy work that contains a continuous narrative of the great Isthmian waterv.ay since it has been in American hands, and it is the only book that gives the story of the circmnstances leading up to. and rulniinating in the seces- sion of Panama from the Republic of Colombia from every point of view. There has been no attempt to '-throw cold water," or disparage, but rather to present the information in a wholly dispassionate and matter-of-fact way. The publisher and his assistants however, believe that in re- viewing the past three years of canal history, supported

by facts and figures, and by a personal knowledge of the general situation, the book will serve a purpose in dispell- ing and dismissing many a doubt and delusion that may have existed, or may still exist in the minds of some, regarding the extent and progress of the canal undertaking.

A work of this kind necessarily involves considerable outside assistance. The publisher takes this occasion to thank the many who have contributed to the book by af- fording all information that lay in their power. He is especially indebted to the members of the Isthmian Canal Commission, Panama Railroad officials, Mr. W. G. Tubby, Mr. H. G. Prescott, Don Jose Augustin Arango, Don Ri- cardo Arango, Don Ricardo Arias, Don Melchor Lasso de la Vega, Don E. T. Lefevre, Don Samuel Boyd, Senor Donaldo Yelasco and others. He is also indebted to The Star & Herald Co., Mr. J. Gabriel Duque, its Director, Mr. Carl von Lindeman, its Manager, and its staff of em- ployes for the excellent typographical work on the book, as well as to the management for the opportunity for research afforded by the early files of the paper. Cordial thanks are also extended to Senor Guillermo Andreve and Senor Don- aldo Yelasco for the loan of several half-tone illustrations appearing on the pages of the Pilot and Guide.

Just a word to the advertisers. Your confidence was invited, and although you made it known to the publisher that you had often been fooled in the past, notw^ithstand- ing the prospectus of the present work attracted your at- tention. The publisher believes he has kept faith with you in every respect. It is seldom that a w^ork of this kind opens its pages to advertisers, in fact, had such an oppor-

tniiity been afforded in the United States, advertising agencie<% would hav«» tiiken every available inch of space. T%e publiaber thanks you for your patronage and trusts that the 1909 edition will see you again i*epit^sent(Ml.

The famed Cathay of Cokimbiis' dreams led that daring, but disappointed navigator to make a fourth and final attempt in the year 1502, to discover a short sea route to the East. After being buffeted about for days by contrary winds in the Caribbean Sea, his small and leaky boats threatening to go to the bottom at any moment, he at last sighted land in the vicinity of Cape Gracias a Dios, Nicaragua. Doubling this cape on the 14th of September, in the year above-mentioned, he landed and explored a region to which ho gave the name of Cerabora. Here he ran across numerous specimens of gold ore, and by questioning the Indians, ascertained that the precious metal existed in large quantities in a district to the east of there called Veragua. He secured num- erous ore samples, and obtained a rough description of the mines.

Continuing his voyage, he sailed along the coast of what is now Costa Rica, and Panama, passing on his way the famous Chiriqui Lagoon in the Province of Bocas del

PUol owrf Gtiifle

Toro, called by the Indians. Ahiircnia, and which quite d(H:eivcd T* ' ' ^ for a time into hohcving that he had at hist di- tho mucli sought for jmssagc. While

voyaging down the coast ho encountei-od numc»*ous stonns whicli imi>crilcd his boats, and on one occasion forced him to seek shelter at a small island. Hei-e he found fiiiits. fish and game in abundance, whi(h led him to give the place the nnmo of Puerto <le HMstimento. meaning a place of supplier

After a lew aa^b rest ai liiis poim, C«'linnl>iis or- ganized a small expedition, and on the 2:Jrd of Noveml)er left tiie haven, but was obhged to ))nt in to the coast again throe, days later owing to a temi)e8t which narrowly came to stamping his ships. This place he aptly termed Retrete. meaning a place of retreat. Here he stayed until the 5th of December, when he decided to turn back over his course. He kept a westerly direction for fifteen days, which bi-ought him on the 7 th day of January, ir^O.'J, to the moufh of a river c^'illed in the Indian tongue Quiebra, hilt to wliich Columbus gave the name of Belen. This river torday forms the natural boundaiT line between the PltJvince of Colon, and that of Veraguas. Towards the interf(»r could be seen a broken mountain range which Coiumbus named San Cristobal. Near this spot, a short while later, the Adelantado D. Bartolomo Colon, founded the fii*st establishment on Isthmian soil, but it did not eirdare long, being destroyed by the Indians under a chief

At this point Columbus again changed his plans and sailed back toward the. east, stopping at the present site of. Porto Heljo (1), and going as far as the islands in the Mulatto Archipelago, which lie in the Gulf of San Bias. After som ^ further journeyings back and forth, ever on the look-out for a natural opening in the barrier before

\'iiriou8ly spoiled Puerto Belo, Portobelo, &nd Porto Bello.

Castle of Gold.

making such action imperative.

History credits Columbus as having first set foot on the soil of what is now the Repubh'c of Panama, on November 2nd., 1502, somewhere in the vicinity of the Chiriqui Lagoon. Thus we have two important dates in Isthmian history nearly coincidental as to the day and month; the discovery, and the declaration of independence

Accounts of the newly discovered countrj^, and the samples of gold having in due time reached the court of Spain, the fanciful name of Castilla del Oro, or Castle of Gold was conferred upon all that region extending from Cape Gracias a Dios, to the Gulf of Uraba, and in the year 1510, Diego de Nicuesa was sent over from Santo Domingo to govern it. He took along with him colonists to the number of 700, but during the voyage a tempest arose, wrecked some of his ships, and caused the loss of 400 of his men, while the others were in desperate straits. In the tempest the ships became separated and some of them reached the coast near the mouth of the Belen Eiver, while others l)rought up at the mouth of the Chagres River. After collecting his men, Nicuesa left the Belen River and went to the port of Bastimcnto, and when he had doubled Manzanillo Point, he shortly landed and said: "We will remain here in the name of God." This was the site of the town of Nombre de Dios, called into prominence at the present time chiefly from its having been one of the earliest settlements on the Isthmus, and ono of the most unhealthful spots in Panama. In this enterprise Nicuesa perished miserably along with the bulk of his followers.

Before Nicuesa's time, two other hardy navigators had added considerably to the store of knowledge concern-

PUot ancf Gttidr.

ing Spain's new possessions. One of these, Rodrigo de

tho Spanisli Main, and discovorcd in I'lOl, a year in ad- vance of the arrival of Columlms, that part of the coast lying between CajK* Tiburon. on the (iulf of Trabil and tJie poit of H^tivte. The other, Alonso de Ojeda, ex- plored the whole northern coast of South America, and gave the country adjacent to the (iulf of Traba, the name of Nueva Andalusia, He founded a town in tho eastern part of the Gulf, naming it San Sebastian. He grew tii-ed of the iTsistaiice (-ffei-ed by the neighboring tribes of Indians and very soon abandoned the c(»lony. leaving his lieutenant, Francisco Pizarro, afterwards famous as tho conqueror of tlie Inca empire, in possession of the pi ce. Ojeda later distinguished himself as the founder of several places in Venezuela.

The Story of Balboa.

Many a cliild at scliool has fiillen down on a hard history lesson, but rarely a dullard so great as to fail in the recital of Balboa*s exploit History accords it but a brief mention, allx?it it is entitled to second place in the at a comi)aratively early age. At 2o he voyaged with Bastida to the Spanish Main, and on his return to His- paniola, the Hayti of the present day, he took up the pursuit of agriculture. His bent did not at all lie in this direction, and his principal harvest was a lot of bad debts. To escape these, and an occupation distasteful to him, he concealed himself one night in a ciisk, and bribed some of the crew erf a ship lying in the harbor to take the cask on board. This ship happened to belong to an expedition commanded by one Bachiller Enciso, then fitting out for a voyage to the South American coast. Balboa was at this time a man of very pleasing appearance, and later, when at sea, his presence on board became known, he

The story of Balboa.

made such an earnest appeal to the Commander, that the latter reversed his earlier decision to throw him overboard. Balboa's representations of the richness of the country, and the fact that he had beev there before in company with Bastida, led Enciso to head his course for the Gulf of Uraba, and the colony of San Sebastian. Before reach- ing the mainland one of his ships became wrecked and through this accident, lost all the horses and pigs he had brought with him. Still greater misfortune awaited the expedition, for on its arrival, the town of San Sebastian wps found to have been burned by the Indians, and the colonists that were there scattered.

Balboa, nothing daunted, promised Enciso that if he would acconipai\y him, he would take him to the western shore of the gulf, where another town could easily be founded, and where the Indians did not use poisoned arrows. The offer was accepted, and together with their men they marched into the territory of an Indian chief named Cemaco, whom they defeated and took prisoner. At the town of this chieftain, they founded Santa Maria la An- tigua del Darien, in honor of the celebrated image at Seville, Spain. This place is noted for its having been the site of the first Episcopal See, and the oldest church on the American continent. Enciso was at the head of this new colony, but it did not last long owing in a large measure to an interdict received from the Crown of Spain pro- hibiting the traffic of gold with the Indians. About this time, too, Balboa and Enciso had a falling out, and the former, gaining the ascendancy, sent his fellow-explorer back to Spain in irons.

Balboa Seeks the Temple of Gold.

The whole country of the Castilla del Oro was now in Balboa's charge, and one of the first of his acts was to despatch Pizarro to explore the interior. About the same time he sent out a company of men to collect the sur-

\ vivors of the ill-fated town of Nombre do Dios. He then took the ti/ld against \\\3 Iiidiauis tirst capturing and im- prisoning the chieftain Cuaivca along with his family, and afterwards pillaging the lands of an Indian chief named Ponca. This '- ' liim and his men to tlio territory of £notiier Indian n named Comagre, at that time

probably the most powerful chief in the entire Darlen region. Comtigic lived in a state of magniHccnce, and had the mummies of his ancestors enshrouded in rich cloths, gold. Although ho had .'J.OUO warriors at his call, he re- ceive<l Balboa peaceably, and gave him the freedom of his domain. C.'omagre's eldest son named Pa nqm'aco became very friendly witli Balboa, and besides presenting him with 4,000 ounces of gold, and ()0 women slaves, taken prison- ers in battle with neighboring tribes, gave him the in- formation that back of the line of niountiins that reared

- their tops in the dim distance, was a nation very rich and powerful, having ships with sails like the Spaniards, and using vessels of solid gold. He also told him of a temple of gold called Dabaibe, situated forty leagues from Darien, on the banks of a great river, emptying into the Ciulf of Uraba (1). In the aboriginal belief, Dabaibe was the mother of the Deity, which dominated the elements, and created the sun, moon, stu-s, and all things good.

Balboa's cupidity was greatly aroused by these tales, and returning to Santa Maria, prepared for an expedition in search of the golden temple. It is evident that at this period Balboa placed some credence in the Indian's tale of *^ ships with sails," but had more faith in the existence of a temple of gold. It is (juite likely tiiat this temple had reference to tlie treasure house of tlie Inca emperoi*s at Cuzco, an account of which, more or less distorted, might easily have passed from tribe to tribe until it reached the Darien.

Balhoa SeeJts the Temple of Gold. ~^ :

His expedition in tvini^ Balboa entered the moutbrof ': Negro, or Sucio, as it is. commonly called on account of the color of its waters. Ascending this tributary he finally arrived at the lands of an Indian chief named Abibeiba^rf without having seen any indication of the object . of his"' place, and then returned to Darien, On arriving he. found that the Indians under Ceraaco, and five other chiefs, witfe - an attack on the colony, which plot was disclosed by one^^- of their number named Fulvia. Balboa at once took the - initiative, surprised and defeated the -Indians, and left - Cemaco dead on the field.

In Q,uest of the South Sea.

About this time there were internal dissensions' in ' the colony, but Balboa succeeded in pacifying all parties, '- so that by the time reinforcements arrived fro^ti Spain ' Antigua, he was ready to set out on an expedition inquest of the South Sea. He sailed from Santa Maria on the men, some Indians, and a number of dogs. A short dis- tance on his way, the Indian chief, Cuareca, who had been baptized by the Spaniards, gave him guides, some Indian^ auxiliaries, and on the 6th of September, after attending mass to ask the blessing of God on his mission, het^"too&^= the road to the mountains.

On the 8th of September, Balboa arrived at the home of the Indian chief, Ponca, mentioned in a previous ' expedition. Here he was the recipient of the first really credible information concerning the great sea to the South. Ponca informed him that the ocean would open to view after passing certain mountains, which he w^onld show him. He also gave Balboa some curious, but handsomely^

Ptht «tMf Gmid^.

fomed gokl omameiits, which the Indian Raid came from places on tliu ocean of wliich he spoke.

On thi< 20th of September ho continued his march. Tbo surface of tiie giound was so rough and hmken. and there were ho many small streams to crass, that in four daySf he only covered thirty miles. At the end of this march, he came to the territon- of the lielli^'erent chief- tain, Cuaracua. who gave him a hard H^lit. The Indian was tiiuUly overcome, and p^^rished in conip:niy with iiOO of his men. The town of Cuaracua where he now was, laid, he was told, at the foot of the last mountani remaining to Ik* surmounted, heforc his eyes could rest on t]ie ohject of his long ami tedious march.

Balboa Discovers the Pacific.

On the 2()th of September, a little after ten o'clock in the morning, the Spaniards discovered from the top of the mountain^ the mighty watei-s of the Pacific. The priest of the cxi)edition, Andres de Vara, intoned the Te Deum, and all those in the company f«*ll on their knees around him. They afterwards laised at this poiiit a cross nnule of the trunk of a ti*ee, braced up by rocks, and upon which they wrote, as well as on various trees in the vicinity, the names of the rulers of Spain. On his descent to the beach, Balboa and his men had to j)ass through the lands of an Indian warrior named Cheapes, who tre;»ted thom kindly, and made them a present of 500 pounds of gold. Reacliing the wat^M-side, Halboa waded out knee-deep into tlie sea, and witli the banner of Spain waving in his hands, proclaimed the vast ocean, and the coasts adjoining it, the proi)crty of his King.

Find Pearls of Fabulous Size.

Shortly after the discovery of the South Sea. as the Pacific was for a long time aften^ards called, Halboa set

IQ Pilot and Otiide*

about making arrangeiponts to explore the vicinity. The ocean at tliis point on tlic coast forms a ^uJf to whith Balboa gavo tiio naniQ.jof ^au Miguel in lionor of his having arriw^c^ there oin the day tlie Catholic church cele- brates this ^u»t, whicl> name it beai*s at the present time. He despatchei one of ''liis mc»n named Aloni?o Martin at the hejul oftt small cOiy^iWiy of Spaniards and Indians. to explore tlie* coast iij-^^r'iTiVxN while he hiihself embarked and went iS^ island* iuliabited by a chief named Tumaco. Martin, leaN-wi^ first, lin5"ili(H credit of being the first Euroi)ean tg^.navi/jate ilie watei-s of the Pacific. The isftuid Balb(ja^and('d ^^l(|iis one ^f many, and to the groft^ hg gave the nam^*^^ the ) Archicpelago de las^ Perlas, or the^earl .'^hipelago. ; To the largest island' in^the grou^he gave the njjme of Isla ^ica, oi:"." Rich Is^dy on account of the rjiiantitios of pearls hia found there, ^ome of which ^-ere erf greid size. Balboa's papers rel^ how ftfitt the canoes of Chief Tumaco had their oars Iricmstei- with pear^, so plentiful Were they at this period Son^e^time after this, an expedition under Pizarro andr3A)rale^ t\^ of Balboa's lieutenants, was sent against the..iWrl Iannis. Tliey crossed tbe Isthmus by* a .J.ess difficult route^than Birlbo»s4iad done, and arrived at the isl&sds without Incident. After foik' different battles with th^Miief ^ftoBa they ffeuncmji possession of Isla Rica, the Pi^farro an(f Morales ^\;Uk a- basket 'full of very fine pearls, one~of which weighed ^tT^a'^ats, and afterwards sold for

Origin of the "Bloody Shirt."

After collecting air'the gold and pearls ho could lay hands on, Ball/oa returned to Darien, the only not^ible incident of the backward journey being iho^ execution of a native chief named Ponera, together wit^ thi:ee of his as-

Origin of the ''Bloody Shirr. j |

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sociates, accused of certain vicious practices. These men, Balboa caused to be devoured alive by the savage dogs which he carried with him.

.The year following, 1514, there arrived at Antigua, a colonel of infantry named Pedro Arias Davila, commonly called Pedrarias, who had been named by the Spanish Crown as Governor of Darien. It is related that Pedrarias was the father-in-law of Balboa, but history does not ap- pear to be fully clear on this point. He commanded a brilliant expedition consisting of 2,000 picked men, which had originally been raised and equipped for w^ar in Italy, under the orders of Grand Captain Gonzalo de Cordova, Cavalier of Spain. About this time La Antigua had been elevated to a metropolitan city of Castilla del Oro, and Friar Juan de Quevedo was named as the first bishop, while Caspar de Espinosa was ch(»sen as the first Alcalde. Shortly after the arrival of Pedrarias, Balboa made another and last quest for the mythical temple of gold, resulting in the usual failure. Then followed several months of Indian fighting. Tumanama, one of the most powerful chiefs of the mountains had long been at enmity with the Spanish invaders, and securing allies in a num- ber of other tribes commenced a war of extermination against -the Conquistadores. The Indians carried a flag in their fights made out of the bloody shirts of the Spaniards

makes of that since famous tocsin. The victories gained by the Indians caused f^reat alarm at I^a Antigua, and the mint and other public buildings were closed. However, after several desperate engagements, Tumanama and his warriors were put to i-out, and a peace pact was entered into.

Balboa's Last Expedition.

Upon the cessation of Indian hostilities, Pedrarias consented to an expedition plamied by Balboa, to explore the Sou til Sea. This involved the construction of the shi|)s necessary for navigating the Pacific, on the Atlantic side ot tlie divide, and their transportati<on, knocked-down, across the Cordillera to some point on the south coast The work of cutting trees and preparing the parts of the ships was performed after several months of arduous toil, and then commenced the long and wearisome journey across the Isthmus. The native Indians were utilized as carriers, and History records that upwards of two thousand of them weakened and died under their heavy burdens. In making the passage, Balboa showed poor judgment. Instead of journeying by a known route, he started across an unexplored part of the Isthmus, discovering the Rio Balsas on his way, which stream he utilized as far as he was able. Reaching the south coast, he put his ships together, and after visiting the Pearl Archipelago, navigated across the Gulf of San Mi- guel, and to a point about two leagues farther on. Here t\w crews of his ships became alarmed at a school of whales, whom they took to be reefs in the ocean, and induced Balboa to put about. Reaching the coast again the entire expedition was brought to a sudden stop, by orders received from Pedra- rias, the Governor, authorizing Balboa's arrest and imprison- ment, under the charge of being a traitor to the Crown.

Balboa, a Victim of Jealousy and Hate.

Up to the time of the last ill-planned expedition, fortune had always smiled on Balboa's enterprises. At

Balboa, a victim of Jealousy and Hate.

this period of his life, however, the fickle goddess turned her back upon him forever. Pcdrarias, the Governor of Daricn, had long been jealous of Balboa's successes, and this feeling culminated into one of intense hate. While fearing to withhold his consent to the South Sea expedi- tion, he was busy phmning the while how to frustrate it. The news of a great Indian empire far to the south had filtered through to the Spanish camp, and stirred Balboa to accomplish what his able but unprincipled lieutenant, Francisco Pizarro, later carried out. Pedrarias was well aware of Balboa's ambitious plans, and this knowledge did but serve to put an eilge to his jealousy and hate.

With but a farce of a trial, and condemned of being a traitor to the Crown on evidence of purely an ex parte character, Balboa, in the year 1517, in the forty-second year of his age, met death by the headsman's axe, and thus ended the life of one of the greatest explorers of the New World. Balboa maintained his imiocence to the very last, defying his accuser and murderer, Pedrarias, who occupied a wintlf»w only ten feet distant from the scaffold where the execution took place.

In view of Balboa's great achievement, history has passed lightly over his faults, among Avhich avarice and cruelty were the most prominent; but taking into account the general customs of the age in which he lived, the difficult and exasperating circumstances and emergencies

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he hail to contend with and overcome, it cannot bo gain- said hut that he was an exception*!! man: an intrepid, cunning and resourceful warri<»r whose ultimate success and wonderful disc<»vcrv ((Mxiuored for him a lasting place in the world's history. Hrsides. his latter sufferings, im- prisonment and doatii on tlie scaffold on an unjust charge, were, no doubt, ample atonemnit for his sins.

Founding of Old Panama.

Pedrarias, incom])ctent, treacherous, and crnol, con- tinued in liigh favoi with the king whose coffei-s he kept well supplied with gold and treasui-e wrung from the en- slaved and oppressed natives who died by the thousands on accoumt of nc»t being physically adapted to the work. It was this terrible decimation of the Indians that prompt- ed some time later a prominent Catholic bishop to suggest the imi)ortjition of negroes from Africa, thus saving the Indian from complete extermination, but at the same time inauguniting the system of slavery that afterwards spread over the gicatest part of two continents.

In l')!.'), Diego de Albites and Tello de Ouzman fonned part of an expedition that crossed to the Pacific side of the Isthmus and arrived at a hut of a poor Hsher, at a point called by the Indians Panama, from the abun- dance of fish and sea shells found there. Here in 1519, Pedraiias founded the city of Old Panama, giving it the Indian name. In 1521. by order of Emperor Charles V., the title of ^'Muy noble y muy leal" was bestowed on the place, and the government, bishopric and colonists of Santa Maria la Antigua del Darien removed thereto. This was only accomplished after great privation and suffering, it l)eing estimated that no fewer than 40.000 Spaniards i)er- thirty years. The court-of-arms given to the new city consisted of a yoke, a bunch of arrows on a gilded field, with two ships underneath, a star, castle and lions: The

Pilot and Guide.

FIRST. ---We have always stood, and shall always stand, with- out a single deviation, .behind our irouelafj guarantee based upon Reliable Goods, Moderate Prices and Our Own Confidence in their Wo^th.

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Silent Sewing Hand and Foot Sewing Machines,

city becume the Heat of tlie Hrst court of the Kcil Aii- diencia^ which obtained in the .Spanisli possessions in

In 1525, a Catholic priest named Hernando Luquc celebrated polemn mass in the Cathedral at Old Panama, taking communion with two Spanish explorers and men-at- arms, Francisco Pizarro and Diego Almagro. He l)n»ke the holy bread into tln*ee pieces, taking one, and giving the other pieces to the two men. The significance of this act was no other than the solemnization of a contract lietween all three to conquer the countries to the South. They shortly afterwards manned several vessels and sailed down the coast, reaching at last the "golden" Peru. Pizarrro's flag used in his conquest is a treasured relic to- day in the archives at Bogota.

Early Trans-Isthmian Routes.

Some time after the settlement of Old Panama, an attempt was m:ide to establish land communication from Nombre de Dios, at that time the principal port on the Atlantic, to the new city on the Pacific A road was finally constructed between the two places, which crossed the Chagres River at Cruces. For a pail of the way the road was paved, evidences of which remain to this day. Later small vessels commenced to sail from Nombre de

Earhj Tmns-Isthin'uui Route.

Dios to the mouth of the Chagres, then up that stream to of mules. Nombre do Dios was ahaudoued at the end of the sixteenth century in favor of Porto BeHo, known to be one of the best havens on the entire Isthmian coast, south of Chi- riqiii Lagoon, to wliich even the steamers of the present day resort when an unusually strong norther is blowing at Colon. Nombre de Dios had long been known as a graveyard for the Spaniards, and its decay was of little moment.

After the conquest of Peru, aiul the development of the gold mines in the Darien, Old Panama sprang rapidly into prominence, All the golden treasure of the West Coast v\as poured into her lap to be sorted for shipment

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to the mother country. Porto Bello likewise became an im- portant post, and was the scene of great fairs uj) to the time of its capture by tlie Pirates under Henry Morgan.

The attack and pillage of Porto Bello, the capture of Port San Lorenzo at the mouth of the Chagres liiver.

And lastly and chief of all, the sack and burning of Old Panama. |)crha|>s at the time the most opulent city in all New Spain. l>y Henry Morgan and his hand of seven- one of tlie mOst thrilling chapters in tlio early history of tJie Spanish Main, and some of the most noUihle events in the piratical record of the West Indies, not only from the bcl.: id intrepidity of tlio attack, but for the gallant

del well.

ToKlay, nearly three hundiwl and fifty years after, took place, though as the late Mr. James Stanley Gill^crt has iRTitten in his famous work, "Panama Patchwork":

" Cloud-crested San Lorenzo guards

The ChaRTes' entrance still, Tho' o'er each stone dense moss has grown,

And earth his moat doth fill. His bastions, feeble with decay,

Steadfastly view the sea, And sternly wait the certain fate

The ages shall decree. **

To the Americans employed on the Isthmus and tho tourists that are coming in ever increasing numboi*s, tho sites of these early Spanish centers of Western civilization have a considerable charm, as is evidenced by the numer- ous excursions made thereto, especially during the dry season. Of them all Old Panama, perhaps, possesses tho greatest attraction. It is easily accessible from the present city, and really interesting, although unfortunately many visitors merely ride over, take a look at the tower and the old bridge, and then come back with the idea that they have seen everytliing wortli while. The tower and bridge are near to the beach, and easily seen, but tho dense vegetation with which tlie greater part of Old Panama is overgrown makes sight-seeing failher in more difficult There is the old Cathedral, the roof of which has fallen

The Ranis of the Buccaneers. |Q

in, but the walls of which are still standing. This church is mentioned in Esquemeling's narrative of the sack and burning of Old Panama, written in 1678, and reprinted herewith, as the only one left standing after the fire, the which was used for a hospital for the wounded of the buccaneers. The interior of this church has been used in recent times, and is still being used, I understand, by the natives living in the vicinity for a burying place for their dead. Nearby to the church is the Catacumbas, or tombs, upon the roofs of which great trees are now growing vigor- ously. As one proceeds farther landwards, sections of the ancient city's walls may be seen in various directions, some being only held up by the gigantic roots of trees which have twined aiid intertwined in and about the stones in such a manner that now it would be difficult even for a pry to dislodge them. Large open wells curbed with stone are scattered about the place, and in these, numerous relics have recently been found, such as parts of copper kettles, pieces of firearms, money, articles used in the churches, etc. If all were cleaned out, no doubt many interesting and perhaps valuable relics could be recovered, inasmuch as the tradition has been handed down, and history in a measure supports it, that the inhabitants of the place in their fright and excitement sought to hide their valuables, and as a last resort threw them into the wells of the city. Be that as it may, the site of Old Panama furnishes a point of interest well worth visiting.

The tower at Old Panama, which figures so promi- nently among Isthmian photographs, and which may be seen on a clear day from high elevations in the new city, formed a part of the castle of St. Jerome. In the papers of a Spanish engineer of that time occurs the following description of it: " This fortification was an excellent piece of workmanship, very strong, being raised in the middle of the port, of quadrangular form, and of very hard stone. Its elevation or height is 88 geometrical feet, its walls being fourteen, and its curtains, seventy-five feet in diameter.

Plaza dc la Catedral, Panama, R. dc P*

Lwcro, \ ivcro. Ccrvczas, Oiarros r Tabacos dc las Plcjorcs

Sa.nclwione8 "Va.ria.ciOB A, Tocia.s £Iora.s

S. WOLFF, Propietario.

nri MnNirn AM^K'^A^ "A" AND CHILL IIOOM.

l/CLlHull I vUy Cathedral Square, Panama, R. P. Finest and ^est Imported Liquors and Cigars.

S. WOLFF, Proprietor.

It was built at the expoiise of soveral private pei-sons, the Governor of tlie city furnishing the principal part of the inoney^ so that it did not cost His Majesty any sum at all."

The fragmentary and often innccurate accounts of Old Panama has not tended to give readers a clear con- ception of this and attendant events. Nothing has ever appeared in print more truthful and interesting concerning the capture of Porto Bello, and the burning of Panama, than is to be found in John Esquemeling's narrative pub- lished in 1G78, seven years after the events actually oc- curred. Esquemeling was a member of the pirate band, and therefore an eye witness of the incidents related. Altliough not definitely known, the author of this narrative is thought to have been a Hollander, inasmuch as his ac- count first appeared in the Dutch language* It wjis after- wards translated into Spanish, and in recent years into English, the latter translation appearing Jis a part of the

S2 POoimid Owkh.

book called **Tho Huccaiiccni of America," published by

at" i.iphic aud pidures<]ue, in which he in-

variably figures in the third iK^i-son. With the exception of a few instances wheiv he s|H»ak8 of Uie extraoixlinary exploits of the English under Morgan, as mattei's of course, he has taken no sides, and is as prone to criticize his leader, as any individual on tJie op|)Osite side. Tiie worst criticism to Ik* made of his nanative is his tendency to magnify the importance of certain places and things. Hence. fi*om his description of Old Panama, one would bo led to believe it a much larger and iniportant place than it really was. He refers to there having been five thousand houses in tlie place at the time of its fall. This would a much more extensive area than the site of Old Panama, it would have been impossible to comprehend so many

F* rente til \Iercado Publico.

store, front of Public Market.

Prmla Stork of Grocerlui aud Llqaon Alwmym ou Ilaud. Country Prodnit* BuuKht aud Sold.

CJrueral C'ontmliMluM Mcrrhautn.

Plur A*.Murtnirut of Panama llats.

The Hauls of the Buccaneers 23

buildings, aiid there is iiotliing to-day to indicate it. I have thoroughly explored the site, and cannot see possibly gathered together. Ringrose, a member of the pirate band of Capt. Sharp, says in his narrative of their expedition which visited New Panama in 1G80, that the latter place then wns larger than Old Panama ever was.

The expedition against Old Panama w^as Henry Morgan's crowning achievement, and his action toward his men after their return to the Fort of Chagre, as Esque- meling terms San Lorenzo, marked the beginning of the end of his career as the greatest pirate of his time. He was a man of quick impulse, one good act being almost invariably offset by an evil one. He cared not for con- quest for conquest's sake, but he was out for the coin of the realm, which in his time was figured in pieces of eight. One of the most astonishing moves in his wdiole career w^as his attitude towards piracy after his ascendancy to the post of Governor of Jamaica, not long after his return from the Panama expedition. To him, more than to any one man, is probably due the ridding of the pirates from the waters and islands of the West Indies.

The Panama expedition was not as successful as Morgan had figured on in the matter of booty. The escape of the Spanish galleon with the plate and church valuables robbed him of the best of his expected treasure. Local tradition has it that he left with as high as 1,200 mule loads of loot, w-hile a biography of Morgan puts it at thirty-seven. Esquemeling gives it at 175 mule loads, which is probably about the correct figure.

We are giving the reader Esqueraeling's account of the capture of Porto Bello, and the fall of Old Panama in the writer's ow^n picturesque language, which cannot fail but to add spice to the narrative - Editor.

Paoama Ganking [ompani.

Paoama, Colon, Empire, Coryona, Hew York.

Central l)anking Business

Loans made and Notes discounted. Foreign Excliange bought and sold.

Cable transfers to all points. Drafts issued on New York and Europe.

Saving Deposits.

ings accounts, on minimum balance during each month.

Special attention paid to collections, both local and foreign, at lowest rates.

Capmre of Porto Bello, 1666.

Capt. Morgan, always communicated vigor with his words, and infused such spirits into his men as were able to put every one of them instantly upon new designs; they being all persuaded by his reasons, that the sole execution of his orders would be a certain means of obtaining great riches. This persuasion had such influence upon their minds, that with inimitable courage they all resolved to follow him. The same likewise did a certain pirate of Campeche, who on this occasion jointed with Capt. Morgan, to seek new fortunes under his conduct, and greater ad- vantages than he had found before. Thus Captain Morgan in a few days gathered a fleet of nine sail, between ships and great boats, wherein he had four hundred and three- score military men.

After that all things were in a good posture of readiness, they put forth to sea, Capt. Morgan imparting the design he had in his mind to nobody for that present. He only told them on several occasions, that he held as indubitable he should make a good fortune by that voyage, if strange occurrences altered not the course of his designs. They directed their course towards the continent, where they arrived in a few days upon the coast of Costa Eica, witli all their fleet entire. No sooner had they discovered land than Capt. Morgan declared his intentions to the Captains, and presently after to all the rest of the * com- pany. He told them he intended in that expedition to plunder Porto Bello. and that he would perform it by night, being resolved to put the whole city to the sack, not the least corner escaping his diligence. Moreover, to encourage them he added: This enterprise could not fail to succeed well, seeing he had kept it secret in his mind w^ithout revealing it to anybody; whereby they could not

have noliro of his coming. To this proposition some made answer: Tliey had not a sufficient nundicr of men whei-e- with to assault so strong and gi-eat a city. But Captiin tfrrtit And the frircr peraouH irr are the more uniou, and ^nrett irv nhaU harv in the npoiL Hereupon, being K'd with th<» and)ition of those vast riclies they promised themselves from their goo<l success, they unani- mously concluded to venturt» upon that design. But, iiow, to Uie intent my reader may l)etter comprehend the in- cx)ni 1»o1(1moss of this exploit, it may he necessary

to > .thing he forehand of the city of Porto Bello.

The city which l)eais this name in America is seated in tlie Province of Costa Rica (1), under the latitude of ten degrees North, at the distance of fourteen leagues from tJie Gulf of Darien, and eight westwards from the port called Xomhre de Dios. It is judged to be the strongest place that the King of Spain jmssesses in all the West Indies, excepting two, that is to say, Havana and Carti- gena. Here are two castles, almost inexpugnable, that defend tlie city, l>eing situated at the entry of the port; so that no ship or boat can pass without permission. The garrison consists of throe hundred soldiers, and the town constnntly inhabited by four hundred families, more or less. The merchants dwell not here, but only reside for awhile, when the galleons come or go from Spain; by reason of the unhealthiness of the air, occasioned by certain vapom*s. that exhale from the mountains Notwithstanding, their chief warehouses are at Porto Bello, howbeit their habitations be all the year long at Panama, whence they bring the plate upon mules at such times as the fair begins and when the ships, belonging to the Company of Negroes, airive here to sell slaves.

i ) The nume generally applied to the Caribbean coast at that time from Cape Qracioa 4 Dio8 to the Chagres River. - Editor.

3La Jlar del Istmo.

Los CigarroK, PicadorAft y CiR«rrnio8 elnl)oratlo8 en e«ta FAbrifji, koh »U1

Todoh (O do PanuniH ((ue ok tan buono

Protejer i las Industrias Nacionales, es protejerse uno i si mismo. E, MORRIS y Cia.

Arrival of the Buccaneers.

Capt Morgan, who knew very woll all the avenues of this city, as also all the neighhoripg coasts anived in the dusk of tlie evening at the place called Puerto de Naos, distant ten leagues toward the wost of Porto Bello. Being come to this place, they mounted the river in their ships, as far as another harhour called Puerto Pontin; where they came to an anchor. Here they put themselves immediately into boats and canoes, leaving only a few men to keep them and conduct them the next day to the port Al>out midnight they came to a cei-tain i)li^co called Estera longa Lemos, where they all went on shore, and marched by land to the first posts (if the city. They had in their company a certiiin Englishman, who had been formerly a prisoner in tliose parts, and who now seived them for a guide. To him, and tliree or four more, tliey ga?e commission to take the sentry, if possible, or kill him

Arrival of the Buccaneers. 29

upon the place. But they laid hands on him and appre- hended hi in with such cunning, that he had no time to give warring with his nmsket, or make any other noise. Thus they brought him, with his hands bound, to Captain Morgan, Avho asked him: IIoiv things went in the city, and what forces they had: with many other circumstances, which he was desirous to know. After every question, they made him a thousand menaces to kill him, in case he declared not the truth. Thus they began to advance towards the city, carrying always the said sentry bound before them. Having marched about one-quarter of a league, they came to the castle that is near the city, which presently they surrounded, so that no person could get either in or out of the said

Being thus posted under the walls of the castle, Capt. iVIorgan commanded the sentry whom they had taken prisoner, to speak to those that were w^ithin, charging them to surrender, and give themselves up to his discre- tion; otherwise they should be aU cut to pieces, without giving qnaiter to any one. But they would hearken to none of these threats, beginning instantly to fire; which gave notice to the city and this was suddenly alarmed. Yet, notwithstanding, although the Governor and soldiers of the said castle made as great resistance as could be performed, they were constrained to surrender to the Pirates. These no sooner had taken the castle, than they resolved to be as good as their words, in putting the Spaniards to the sword, thereby to strike a terror into the rest of the city. Hereupon, having shut up all the soldiers and officers as prisoners into one room, they instantly set fire to the powder (whereof they found great quantity), and blew up the whole castle into the air, with all the Span- iards that were within. This being done, they pursued the course of their victory, falhng upon the city, which as yet was not in order to receive them. Many of the in- habitants cast their precious jewels and moneys into wells and cisterns, or hid them in other places underground, to

excuse, as much as wore possihKv their boiii^? toUiIly rdbbod. One party <»f tlu* Pinitoi* hoing assipiod to tins purpose, rail iuinuHli.itely to the cloistoi-s, atul took as many re- ligious men and wouioii as tlicy could find. The Governor of the city not heiuf? able t(» rally the citizens, through the huge confusion of the town ivtired to one of tlie cas- tles remaining^ and thence l)egan to fire incessaidly at the Pirates. But these were not m the least negh'gent either to assault him or defoiul tli ' with all tlie courage imaginable. Thus it w.is ol.. that, amidst the horror

of tlie assault, they made very few shots in vain. For aiming witli git»at dexterity at the mciutlis of the guns, tlie Spaniards wei-e certain to lose on.^ or two men every time they charged each gun anew.

Assault on the Castle.

The assault of this aistle where the Governor was, con- tinued very furious on both sides, from break of day until noon. Yea, about this time of the day the case was very dubious which party should conquer or be conquered. At last the Pirates, perceiving they liad lost many men and as yet advanced but little towards tlie gaining either this, or the other castles remaining, thought to nuike use of fireballs, which they threw with their hands, designing, if possible, to burn the dooi-s of the castle. But going about to put this into execution, the Spaniards from the wall let fall great (piantities of stones and earthen pots full of powder and other combustible matter, wliich forced them to desist from that attempt. Capt. ^lojgan seeing this generous defence made by tie Spaniards, began to despair of the whole success of the enterprise. Hereupon, many faint and calm meditations came into his mind; neither could he determine which way to turn himself in that straitness of affairs. Being involved in these thoughts, he was suddeidy aiiimated to continue the assault by seeing the English colours put foiUi at one of the lesser Ciistles,

Assault on the Castle.

I^icense to practice from.

The University of the State of New York.

The State Board of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania.

The State Board of the Commonwealth of New Jersey.

then entered by his men, of Avhom he presently after spied a troop that came to him, proclaiming victory with loud shouts of joy. This instantly put him upon new resolu- tions of making new efforts to take the rest of the castles that stood out against him; especially seeing the chief citi- zens were fled to them, and had conveyed thither great pait of their riches, with all the plate belonging to the churches, and other things dedicated to divine service.

To this effect, therpfore, he 0)'dered ten or twelve ladders to be made in all possible haste, so broad th^t three or four men at once might ascend by them. These being finished, he commanded all the religious men and women whom he had taken prisoners to fix them against the walls of the castle. This much he had beforehand threatened the Governor to perform, in case he delivered not the castle. But his answer was: He would never sur- render himself alive. Capt. Morgan was much persuaded that the Governor would not employ his utmost forces,

32 Pifot and Guide.

in the front of the soldioi-s to the greatest daiigei-s. Thus the ladders, as I have SJiid. were put into tlie liauds of rehgious persons of l)otli sexes; and these were forced, at the head of the companies, to raise and a])ply them to the walls. But Capt Morgan was fully deceived in his judg- ement of this design. For the Governor, who acted like a brave and aanageous soldier, refused not, in performance of his duty, to use his utmost endeavours jtc destroy who- ever came near the walls The religious men and women ceased not to cry to him and to heg of him hy all the Saints of Heaven that he would deliver the castle, and hereby spai^ both his and their own lives. But nothing could prevail with the obstinacy and fierceness that had possessed the Governor's mind. Thus many of the religious men and nuns were killed before they could fix the ladders. Which at last being done, though with great loss of the said religious people, the Pirates mounted them in great numbers, and with no less valour; having fireballs in their hands, and earthen jiots full of powder. All which things, being now at the top of the walls, they kindled and cast in among the Spaniards.

Refused duarter Despite Wife's Tears.

This efforj; of the Pirates was very great; insomuch as the Spaniards could no longer resist nor defend the castle, which was now entered. Hereupon they all threw down their arms, and craved quarter for their lives. Only the Governor of the city would admit or crave no mercy; but rather killed many of the Pirates with his own hands, and not a few of his own soldiers, because they did not stand to their arms. And although the Pirates asked hini if he would have quarter, yet he constantly answered: By no means: I had rather die a valiant soldier than he hanged as a coward. They endeavoured, as much as they could, to take him prisoner. But he defended himself so

Refused Quarter Despite Wife's Tears. 33

obstinately that they were forced to kill him; iiotwithstand^ iiig all the cries and tears of his own wife and daughter, who begged of him upon their knees he would demand quarter and save his life. When the Pirates had possessed themselves of the castle, which was about night, they en- closed therein all the prisoners they had taken, placing the women and men by themselves, with some guards upon them. All the wounded were put into a certain apartment by itself, to the intent their own complaints might be the cure of their own diseases; for no other was afforded them.

This being done, they fell to eating and drinking after their usual manner; that is to say, committing in both these things all manner of debauchery and excess. After such manner they delivered themselves up to all soil of debauchery, that if there had been found only fifty cou- rageous men, they might easily have retaken the city, and killed all the Pirates. The next day, having plundered all they could find, they began to examine some of the prison- ers (who had been persuaded by their companions to say they were the richest of the town), charging them severely to discover where they had hidden their riches and goods. But not being able to extort anything out of them, as thoy were not the right persons who possessed any wealth, they at last resolved to torture them. This they performed with such cruelty that many of them died upon the rack, or presently after. Soon after, the President of Panama had news brought him of the pillage and ruin of Porto Bello. This intelligence caused him to employ all his care and in- dustry to raise forces, with design to pursue and cast out the Pirates thence. But these cared little for what extra- ordinary means the President used, as having their ships near at hand, and being determined to set fire to the city, and retreat. They had now been at Porto Bello fifteen days, in which space of time they had lost many of their men, both by the unhealthiness of the country and the ex-

Ransom Placed on Prisoners.

Hereupon they j3repared for a departure, carrying on board their ships all the pillage they had got. But, before all. they provided the fleet with sufficient victuals for the voyage. While these things were getting ready, Captain Morgan sent an injunction to the prisoners that they should pay him a ransom, for the city, or else he would by fire consume it to ashes, and blow up all the castles into the air. Withal, he commanded them to send speedily two persons to seek and procure the sum he demanded, Avhich amounted to one hundred thousand pieces of eight. To this effect, two men Avere sent to the President of Panama, who gave hin\ an account of all these tragedies. The President having now a body of men in readiness, set forth imme- diately towards Porto Bello to encounter the Pirates before their retreat. But these people, hearing of his coming, instead of flying away, went out to meet him at a narrow passage through which of necessity he must pass. Here they placed an hundred men very well armed; who, at the first encounter, put to flight a good party of those of Panama. This accident obliged the President to retire for that time, as not being yet in a posture of stiength to proceed any farther. Presently after this encounter he sent a message to Capt Morgan to tell him: That in case he departed not suddenly with all his forces from Porto Bello, he ought to expect no quarter for himself nor his companionsi ichen he should ialie them^ as he hoped soon to do. Captain Morgan who feared not his threats, knowing he had. a secure retreat in his ships which were near at hand, made him answer: He uwuld not deliver the castles, before he had received the contribution-money he had demanded. Which in case it were not paid down, he tcould certainly burn the whole city, and then leave it; demolishing beforehand the castles^ and Mlling the prisoners .

Pilot attd Omtk,

Opposite the P. K. R. Passenger Station,

9(p Cooler pUce in the City. Large and Well-'ventiUted T^ms.

Hotel electric lighted throughout- cAll Modern cArrangements*

baggage Transported Free to and from T^ilroad Station,

^Prices S^oderate, Special T^ates for Families.

Superior Se/bice. Principal Languages Spoken*

Frente a la Estacion Nueva del Ferrocarril.

liff EiecMco en lodos los coofios y ifonspofie Groiis de Equipoles del Holei o lo Esloclon y viceifefso.

Servioio Earaeralo. Se Haitian lc3 Prinoipalea Idioir.as.

Morgan's Threat against Old Faitama. 3J"7

Morgan's Threat Against Old Panama.

The Governor of Panama perceived by this answer that no means would serve to mollify the hearts of the Pirates, nor reduce them to reason. Hereupon he deter- mined to leave them; as also those of the city, whom he came to relieve, involved in the difficulties of making the best agreement they could with their enemies. Thus, in few days more, the miserable citizens gathered the contri- bution wherein they were fined, and brought the entire sum of one hundred thousand pieces of eight to the Pirates, for a ransom of the cruel captivity they were fallen into. But the President of Panama, by these transactions, was brought into an extreme admiration, considering that four hundred men had been able to take such a great city, with so many strong castles; especially seeing that they had no pieces of cannon, nor other great guns, wherewith to raise batteries against them. And what was more, knowing that the citizens of Porto Bello had always great repute of being good soldiers themselves, and who had never wanted courage in their own defence. This astonishment was so great, that it occasioned him, for to be satisfied herein, to send a messenger to Capt. Morgan, desiring him to send him some small pattern of those arms wherewith he had taken with such violence so great a city. Capt. Morgan received this messenger very kindly, and treated him with civility. Which being done, he gave him a pistol and a few small bullets of lead, to carry back to the President, his Master, telling him withal: He desired Mm to accept that slender pattern of the arms whereivith he had taken Porto Bello, and keep them for a twelvemo7ith; after ivhich time he promised to come to Panama and fetch them away. The Governor of Panama returned the present very soon to Capt. Morgan giving him thanks for the favour of lending him such weapons as he needed not, and withal sent him a ring of gold with this message: That he desired him not to give himself the labour of coming to Panama as he had done to Porto Bello; for

he did not certify to hiirtj he should not sjyeed fio well here as he had tlone then

Departure of the Pirates.

Aitor thoM* transactions, ('apt. Mor^'a?i (having? pro- vidwl his rioct with all nrct'ssarics, and taken with him the best guns of tho castles, nailing the rest which he could ii(»t carry awav) set sail from Porto Bello with all hi« 8hi|»s With these he arrived in few days at the Island of Cuha. when* he sought out a place wherein with all «|uiet and repose he might make the dividend of the 8|K»il they had got. They found in ready money two hun- dreil an<l fifty thous;ind pieces of eight, (1) hesides all other merchandizes, as cloth, linen, silks, and other goods. With this rich hooty they sailed again thence to their comuioii place of rendezvous, Jamaica. Being arrived, they passed here some time in all sorts of vices and debauchery, according to their connnon manner of doing, spending with huge pr(»digality what others had gained with no small labour and tnil.

Upon the conclusion of a treaty of j)eace in 1070 betwwn Kngland and Spain, which confirmed the former ill her pr»s8essions in tho West Indies, hut forbade her suhjects to trade to any Spanish port without a license; a pHK-lamation was issued in j)ursuance of such arrange- ment which greatly exasperated the freebooting community, and the direct result ol which was an assemblage of the largest fleet ever brought txjgether by tlie buccaneers, amounting to 37 ships of all sizes, manned by more than

(1) Tho coin " piece of eight" had the value of eight Spanish reals. Equivalent to 40 eenta gold. - Editor.

Sii!?i^©gi®^aa S^B^Sli

Venta de Pieles de Venado, de Tigre, de Culebra

Hipolito de la Oliva.

Tiburon, Gulf of Uraba, and held a council to decide whether their forces should be directed upon Cartagena, Vera Cruz, or Panama. The last was chosen as being the richest, and Morgan was elected Admiral.

Capt. Morgan perceived that fortune favored his arms, by giving good success to all his enterprizes, which occa- sioned him, as it is usual in human affairs, to aspire to greater things, trusting she would always be constant to him. Such was the burning of Panama; wherein fortune failed not to assist him, in like manner as she had done before, crowning the event of his actions with victory, how^- beit she had led him thereto through thousands of difficul- ties. The history hereof, I shall now begin to relate, as being so very remarkable in all its circumstances that per^' adventure nothing more deserving memory may occur to be read by future ages,

Not long after Capt. Morgan arrived at Jamaica, he found many of his chief officers and soldiers reduced to~ their former state of indigence through their immoderat<3 vices and debaucheiy. Hence they ceased not to importuiio-

FHot tmd Gtude. ^Q

him for new inYauons and exploits, thereby to get some- thing to exi>ciul anow in wine, as they had ahvndy wasted what wan 8i»cuitHl so little lx»fore. Capt. Morgan being willing to follow foiluiie while she called him, beivupon stopped tiie mouths of many of the inhabitants of .lamaic^i, who were creditors to his men for largo sums of money, with the h<»|>es and promises be gave them, of greattn* achievements than ever, by a new expedition bo was going about This being done, he needed not give himself much trouble to levy men for this or any other enterprize, his name U^ing now so famous tlnx)Ugb all those islands, that that alone would readily bring him in mow men than he cottkl well employ. He undertook therefore to equip a new lleet of ships: for which puipose he assigned the south side of tlie isle of Tortuga, as a place of rendezvous. With this ix'Kolution. he wrote divers letters to all the ancient and rx|)ei-t Pirates there iniiabiting, as also to the Ciovemor (»f said isle, and to the plantei-s and huntei^s of Hispaniola (Hayti), giving them to understand his inten- tions, and desiring their appearance at the said place, in case they intended to go with him. All these people had no sooner undei-stood his designs than they Hocked to the place assigned, in huge numbers, with ships, canoes and Iwats, being desirous to ol>ey his commands. Many, who had not the co? venience of coming to him by sea, travei-sed the woods of Hispaniola, and with no small difficulties ar- riTed there by land. Thus all were present at the place assigned and in readiness, against the 24th day of Octo-

Pirates Go A-Foraging.

Capt Morgan was not wanting to be there accord- ing to his punctual custom, who came in his ship to the same side of the island, to a port called by the French, Port Couillon. over against the island. Do la Vaca, this being a place which he had assigned to others. Having

Pilot and Guide.

now gatliercd the gix?atcRt part of his fleet, he called a council, to deliberate al)Out the means of finding provisions sufticient for so many people. Here they concluded to send four ships and one boat, manned with four hundred men, over to tlie continent, to tlie intent they should ritlo some country towns and villages, and in these get all the corn or maize they could gather. Thoy set sail for the continent, towards the river, De la Haehn, with design to assauh a small vilhige called La Hjinrlieiia, where is usually to be found the greatest quantity of maize of all these parts thereabouts. In the meanwhile ('apt. Morgan sent anotlier party of his men to hunt in the woods, who killed iJien* a huge nunil>er of beasts, and saltfd them. The rest of his companions remained ni the ships, to clean, fit and rig them out to sea, so that at the return of those who were sent abi-oad, all things might be in readiness to wieght anchor, and follow the course of their designs.

The four shijjs above mentioned, after they had set «ail fi'om Hispaniola, steered their course till they came within sight oi the liver, Oe lu Hacha, where they WTre suddenly overtaken with a tedious calm. Being thus within sight ot land becalmed for some days, the Spaniards in- habiting along the co.ist who had perceived them to l)e enemies, had sufticient time to prepare then)selves for the assault, at least to hide the best part of their goods, to the end that, without any care of preserving them, they might be in reaidness to retire, when they found them- selves unable to resist the force of the Pirates, by whose fi-equent attempts upon those coasts they had .-- heady leanit what they had to do in such cases. There was in the river at that present a good ship, which was come from Cartagena to lade maize, and was now when the Pirates came almost ready to depart. The men belonging to this .ship endeavoured to escape, but not being able to do it; both they and the vessel fell into their han<ls. This was a fit booty for their mind, as being good part of what they came to seek for with so much care and toil.

Pirates Go A-Foraging. ^3

The next morning about break of day they came with their ships toward the shore, aiid landed their men, although the Spaniards made 'huge resistance from a battery which they had raised on that side, where of necessity they had to land; but notwithstanding wdiat defence they could make, they were forced to retire towards a village, to which the Pirates followTd them. Here the Spaniards, rallying again, fell upon them with great fury, and maintained a strong combat, which lasted till night was come; but then, per- ceiving they had lost a great number of men, which was no smaller on the Pirates, side, they retired to places more occult in the woods.

The next day when the Pirates saw they were all fled, and the town left totally empty of people, they pur- sued them as far as they could possibly. In this pursuit they overtook a party of Spaniards, whom they made all prisoners and exercised the most cruel torments, to dis- cover where they had hidden their goods; some were found who by the force of intolerable tortures confessed; but others who would not do the same were used more bar- barously than the former. Thus, in the space of fifteen days that they remained there, they took many prisoners, much plate and movable goods, with all other things they could rob, with which booty they resolved to return to Hispaniola. Yet not content with what they had already got, they dispatched some prisoners into the woods to seek for the rest of the iiihabitants, and to demand of them a ransom for not burning the town. To this they answered, they had no money or plate, but in case they would be satisfied with a certain quantity of maize, they would give as much as they could afford. The Pirates accepted this proffer, as being more useful to them at that occasion than ready money, and agreed they should pay four thousand hanegs, or bushels, of maize. These were brought in three days after, the Spaniards being desirous to rid themselves as soon as possible of that in- human sort of people. Having laded ' them on board their

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Rhips,. together with all the I'est of tlieir l)ooty, they rotui iied to tlie Island of Hispaniola, to give ac count to their leader, Capt Morgan, of all they had performed.

Preparations for Departure.

They had now heen absent five entire weeks, about the commis.sion aforementioned, wliich long delay occasioned Capt Morgan almost to despair of their return, fearing lest they had fallen into the hands of the Spaniards, es- jjecially considering that the place whereto they w^ent could easily be relieved from Cartagena and Santa ^farta, if the inhabitants were at all careful to alarm the country; on tlie other side he feared lest they should have made some great fortune \\\ that voyage, and with it escaped to some other place. But at last seeing his ships return, and in greater number than they had departed, he resumed now courage, this sight causing both in him and his com- panions intinite joy. This was much increased when, being arrived, they found. them full laden with maize, wliereof they stood in great need for the maintenance of so many people, by whose help they expected great mattei*s through the conduct of their commander.

After Capt Morgan had divided the said maize, as also the flesh which the hunters brought in, among all the ships, according to the numl)er of men that were in every

Preparations for Departure. ^^ ^

vessel, he concluded upon the departure, having viewed beforehand every ship, and observed their being well equipped and clean. Thus he set sail, and directed his course towards Cape Tiburon, where he determined to take his measures and resolution, of what enterprise he should take in hand. No sooner were they arrived there than they met with some other ships that came newly to join them from Jamaica. So that now the whole fleet consisted of thirty-seven ships, wherein were two thousand lighting men, besides mariners and boys; the iVdmiral hereof was mounted with twenty- two great guns, and six small ones, of brass; the rest carried some twenty, some sixteen, some eighteen, and the smallest vessel at least four, bes'des which they had great quantity of ammunition and lire- balls, with other inventions of powder.

Proposed Division of Spoils.

Capt. Morgan finding himself with such a great num- ber of ships, divided the whole fleet into two squadrons, constituting a Vice-Admiral, and other officers and com- manders of the second squadron, distinct from the former. To every one of these he gave letters patent, or commis- sions, to act all mamier of hostility against the Spanish nation, and take of them what ships they could, either abroad at sea, or in the harbours, in like manner as if they were open and declared enemies (as he termed it) of the King of England, his pretended master. This being- done, he called all his captains and other officers together, and caused them to sign some articles of common agree- ment between them, and in the name of all. Herein it was stipulated that he should have the hundredth part of all that was gotten, to himself alone. That every captain should draw the shares of eight men, for the expenses of his ship, besides his own: That the surgeon, besides his ordinary pay, should have two hundred pieces of eight, for

his cliest of mcdicAiuoiits: And every carpenter, above his common salary, shonld draw one hundred pieces of eight. As to I'ccompcnces.they were i-egiilated in this voyage mucli more than usual. Thus, for the loss of both legs, they assigned one Uiousand live hiuidred pieces of eight or fifti'en slaves: for ono leg. whether the right or left, six bu!idn'd pieces of eight or six shives; for a hand, as much as for a leg« and for the loss of an eye, ono hundred pieces of eight or one slave. I^iistly. unto him that in any Imttle should signalize himself, either by cnteriitg the tii*st any castle, or taking down the Spanish colours and setting up the Engli.sh, they constituted tifty pieces of eight for a rowanl. In tlie head of these articles it was stipulated Uiat all these extraordinary salaries, rccompences and re- wanls should be paid out of the first spoil or ))urchase they should take, according as every one should then occur to be either rewarded or paid.

This contract being signed. Capt Morgan commanded his Vice-Admirals and Captains to put all things in order, to go and attempt one of throe places, either Cartagena, Panama or Vera Cniz; but the lot fell upon Panama as being believed to be the richest of all three; notwithstand- ing this city l)eing situated at such distance from the Northern sea, as they knew not well the avenues and entries necossiiry to approach it, they judged it necessary to go beforehand to the isle of St. Catharine, there to tifid and provide themselves with some pei-sons who might serve tliem for guides in this enterprize; for in the garrison of that island are commonly employed many banditti and outlaws belonging to Panama and the neighboring places, who are very expert in the knowledge of all that country. But before they proceeded any farther, they caused an act U» l>e published through the whole Heet, containing that in case they met with any Spanish vessel, the tii-st captiin who with his men should enter and take the said ship, should have for his reward the tenth part of whatso- ever should be found within her.

Pilot and Guide.

Attack Isle of St. Catharine.

Capt. Morgan and his companions weighed anchor from the Capo of TihuiiSn, tlje Kitli day of Decenil)or in the year 1(»70. Four days after they arrived within sight of the Isle of St. Catharine, (1) which was now in pos- session of tJie Spanianis again, and to which they commoidy banislied the malefactors of the Spanish dominions in the West Indies. In this island are found huge quantities of pigeons at certain seasons of tlie year, it is watered con- tinually by four rivulets or brooks, whereof two are always dry in the summer season. Here is no manner of trade nor commerce exercised by the inhabitants, neither do tliey give themselves the trouble to plant more fruits than what 18 necessary for the sustentation of human life; howbeit, tlic country would be sufficient to make very good planta- tions of tobacco, which might roiulor coiisidorablo profit were it cultivated for that use.

As soon as Capt. Morgan came near the island with his fleet, he sent before one of his best sailing vessels to view the entry of the river and see if any other ships were there who might hinder him from landing; as also fearing lest they should give intelligence of his arrival to the in- habitiints of the island^ and they by this means prevent his designs.

The next day before sunrise, all the fleet came to anchor near the island, in a certain bay called Aguada Grande: upon this bay the Spaniards had lately built a battery, mounted with four pieces of cannon. Captiin Morgan landed witli a thousand men, more or less, and disposed them into squadrons, beginning his march through the woods, although they had no other guides tlian some few of his own men who had been there before when

(1) Also known hk Santa Katalina or Old Providence, an island in the Caribbean Sea, 100 miles from the Mosquito Coast, now belong- ing to Venezuela.

Attack Isle of St. Catharine.

Mansvelt took and ransacked the island. The same day they came to a certain place where the Governor at other times kept his ordinary residence: here they found a bat- tery called The Platform, but nobody in it; the Spaniards having retired to the lesser island, which, as was said before, is so near the great one that a short bridge only may conjoin them.

Pirates in Serious Straits.

This lesser island aforesaid was so well fortified with forts and batteries around it as might seem impregnable. Hereupon, as soon as the Spaniards perceived the pirates to approach, they began to fire upon them so furiously that they could advance nothing that day, but were con- tented to retreat a little, and take up their rest upon the grass in the open fields, which afforded no strange beds to these people, as being sufficiently used to such kind of

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Se atienden pedidos a do-

rt»iKiso; wliat most afflicted them was hunger, having not eaten tJie leait tiling that whole day. About midnight it liegan to rain so hard that those miserable people had much ado to i-esist ho much hardship, the greatest part of them having no other clothes than a pair of seamau's trousers or biveches. and a shirt, without eitlier shoes or stockings. Thus finding themselves in great extremity, they began to pull down a few thatched houses to make fires withal; in a word, they were in such condition that one hundred men. indiffeit?ntly well armed, might easily that night have torn them all to pieces. The next morning about break of day the rain ceased, at which time they began to dry their arms, which were entirely wet, and pro- ceed on their march. But not long after, the rain com- menced anew, rather harder than before, as if the skies were melted into waters, which caused them to cease from wlvancing towards the forts, whence tlio Spaniards con- tinually fired at the Pirates, seeing them to approach.

The Pirates were now reduced to great affliction and danger of their lives through the hardness of the weather, their own nakedness and the great hunger they sustained. For a small relief hereof, they happened to find in the fields an old horse, which was both lean and full of scabs and blotches, with galled back and sides. This honid animal they instantly killed and flayed, and. divided into small pieces among themselves as far as it would reach, for many could not obtain one morsel, which they roasted and devoured without either salt or bread, more like raven- ous wolves than men.

A Threat and the Answer.

llie rain as yet ceased not to fall, and Capt. Morgan perceived their nn'nds to relont, hearing many of them say they would return on boaid the ships. Amongst these fatigues both of mind and body, he thought it convenient to use some sudden and almost unexpected remedy; to this

A Threat and th« Answer. ^|

effect he commanded a canoe to be rigged in all haste, and the colours of truce to be hanged out of it. This canoe he sent to the Spanish governor of the island with this message: That if icithin a few hours he delivered not himself and all his men into his hands, he did by that mes. senger sicear to him, and all those that tcere in his company, he icould almost certainly put them all to the sivord, tcithout granting quarter to any.

After noon the canoe retrirned with this answer: That the Governor desired ttvo hours time to deliberate with his officers in a full council about that affair; trhich being past, he would give his positive answer to the message.

The time now being elapsed, the said Governor sent two canoes with white colours, and two persons, to treat with Capt. Morgan, but before they landed, they demanded of the Pirates two persons as hostages of their security. These were readily granted by Capt. Morgan, who de- livered to them two of his captains, for a mutual pledge of the security required. With this the Spaniards pro- pounded to Capt. Morgan, that their Governor in a full assembly had resolved to deliver up the island, not being provided with sufficient forces to defend it against such an armada or fleet. But withal he desired that Captain Morgan would be pleased to use a certain stratagem of war, for the better saving of his own credit, and the repu- tation of his officers both abroad and at home, which should be as follows: That Capt. Morgan would come with his troops by night, near the bridge that joined the lesser island to the great one, and there attack the fort of St. Jerome; that at the same time all the ships of his fleet would draw near the castle of Santa Teresa, and attack it by sea, landing in the meanwhile some more troops, near the battery called St. Matthew; that these troops which were newly landed should by this means intercept the Governor by the way, as he endeavoured to pass to St. Jerome's fort, and then take him prisoner, using the formality, as if they forced him to deliver the said castle;

Piht amd Gnide.

and that ho would lead the English into it. under the fraud of Inking his own troops: that on one side and the other tJierc should he continual firing at one anotlier. but without bullets, or at least into the air. so that no side might receive any harm by this device; that thus having obtained two such considerable forts, the chief of the isle, ho need not care for the I'est, which of necessity must fall by course into his bands.

A Mock Surrender.

These propositions, eveiy one. were granted by ('apt. Morgan. uj)on condition they should see them faitlifully observed, for otherwise they should be used with all rigour imaginable: tliis they promised to do, and hereupon took tlieir leave, and returned to give account of their negotiation to the Governor. Presently after, Capt Morgan commanded the whole fleet to enter the poi-t, and his men to be in readiness to assault that night the castle of St. Tei*ome. Thus the false alarm or batt'e began with in- cessant firing of great guns from both the castles against the .ships, but without bullets, as was said before. Then the Pirates landed, and assaulted by night the lesser island, which tliey took, as also possession of both the fortresses, forcing all the Spaniards, in appearance, to fly to the church. Before this assault, Capt. Morgan had sent

Tienda de "San Jose" ' "San Jose" Store.

Al cnta4o de la i{lesia del nisno aombre

[ose c^ngej ^Iftvera, Prop.

Pi-nmii.

Adjacent the Church of the sane laaie.

HnviiiK n't-*'ntlv rewtwkHl my »tor»<. Wiiifsaiid Li<|UorH. Prr^tt-rvrH, ( 'huimh! kimmIh. HlsciiUii.- <ilH«Kuan*. Crwkery.

Jose Angel Rivera, Prop.

A Mock Surrender. S3

word to the Governor he should keep all his men together in a body, otherwise it" the Pirates met any straggling Spaniards in the streets, they should certainly shoot them. The island being taken by this unusual stratagem, and all things put in due order, the Pirates began to make a new war against the poultry, cattle and all sort of victuals they could find. This was their whole employ for some days, scarce thijiking of anything else than to kill those animals, roast and eat, and nmke good cheer, as much as they could possibly attain unto. If wood was w^anting, they presently fell upon the houses, and pulling them down, made fires with the timber, as had been done before in the field. The next day they numbered all the prisoners they had taken upon the whole island, which were found to be in all four hundred and fifty persons, between men, women and children, viz., one hundred and ninety soldiers belonging to the garrison; forty inhabitants who were married; forty-three children; thirty-four slaves belonging to the King, with eight children; eight banditti; thirty-nine negroes belonging to private persons, with twen- ty-seven female blacks, and thirty-four children. The Pirates disarmed all the Spaniards, and sent them out im- mediately to the plantations, to seek for provisions, leaving the women in the church, there to exercise their devotions.

Fortifications of St. Catherine.

Soon 'after they took a review of the Avhole island, and all the fortresses belonging thereunto, which they found to be nine in all, as follows: the fort of St. Jerome, nearest to the bridge, had eight great guns of 12, 6 and 8 pound carriage, together with six pipes of muskets, every pipe containing ten muskets. Here they found still sixty muskets, with sufficient quantity of pow^der and all other sorts of ammunition. The second fortress, called St. Matthew, had three guns, of 8 pound carriage each. The third and chief among all the rest, named Santa Teresa, had ^venty

pipes of muskets, like those we said before, and ninety This castle was built witli stone and mortar, with very thick walls on all sides, and a large ditch around about it of twenty foot dcptli, which although it was dry was very hard to get over. Here was no entry but through one door, which corresponded to the middle of the castle. Within it was h mount, or hill, almost inaccessible, with four pieces of cannon at the top. whence they could shoot directly inU) the |)ort. On the sea side this castle was im- pregnable, by reason of the rocks which surrounded it and the sea beating furiously upon them. In like manner, on the side of tlie land, it was so commodiously seated on a mountain that there was no access to it, but by a patli of three or four foot bmad. The fourth fortress was named St. Augustine, having three guns, of 8 and (> pound car- riage. The tifth, named La Plattaforma de la Concepcion, had only two guns, of eight pound carriage. The sixth, by name San Salvjulor, had likewise no more than two guns. The seventh, being called Platbiforma de los Ar- tilleros, had also two guns. The eighth, called Santa Cruz, hatl three guns. The ninth, which was called St Joseph's Fort, had six guns, of 12 and 8 pound carriage, besides two pipes of muskets and sufficient ammunition.

In the storehouse were found above thirty thousand pounds of powder, with all other soils of ammunition, which were transported by the Pirates on board the ships. All the guns were stopped and nailed, and the fortresses demolished, excepting that of St Jerome, where tlie Pirates kept their guard and residence.

Pirates Start for San Lorenzo.

Capt Morgan enquired if any banditti were there from Panama or Porto Bello, and hereupon three were brought before him, who pretended to be very expert in

Pirates Start for San Lorenzo. 5S

all the avenues of those parts. He asked them if they would be his guides, and show him the securest ways and passages to Panama; which, if they performed, he promised them equal' shares in all they should pillage and rob in that expedition, and that afterwards he would set them at liberty, by transporting them to Jamaica. These proposi- tions pleased the banditti very well, and they readily ac- cepted his proffers, promising to serve him very faithfully in all he should desire, especially one of these three, who was the greatest rogue, thief and assassin among them, and who had deserved for his crimes rather to be broken alive upon the wheel than punished with serving in a gar- rison. This wicked fellow had a great ascendancy over the other two banditti, and could domineer and command over them as he pleased, they not daring to refuse obedience to his orders.

Hereupon Capt. Morgan commanded four ships and one boat to be equipped and provided with all things necessary, to go and take the castle of Chagre, seated upon a river of that name. Neither would he go himself with his whole fleet, fearing less the Sj^aniards should be jealous of his farther designs upon Panama. Li these vessels he caused to embark four hundred men, who went to put in execution the orders of their chief commander Capt. Morgan, while he himself remained behind in the Island of St. Catharine, with the rest of the fleet, expecting to hear the success of their arms.

The Castle of Chagre (San Lorenzo).

Capt.: Morgan sending these four ships and a boat to the river of Chagre, chose for Yice-Admiral thereof a certain person named Capt. Brodely. This man had been a long time iji those quarters, and committed many rob- beries upori the Spaniards when Mansvelt took the Isle of St. Catharine. He, being therefore well acquainted with those coasts, was thought a fit person for this exploit, his

Castle of Chagre. {San Lorenzo). S7^

actions likewise having rendered him famous among the Pirates, jind their enemies the Spaniards. Capt. Brodely being chosen chief commander of these forces, in three days after he departed from the presence of Captain Morgan, arrived within sight of the said castle of Chagre, which by the EngHsh is called St. Lawrence. (1) This castle is built upon a high mountain, at the entry of the liver, and surrounded on all sides with strong palisades or Avooden walls, being very well terrepleined, and filled with earth, which renders them as secure as the best walls made of stone or brick. The top of this mountain is in a manner divided into two parts, between which lies a ditch, of the depth of thirty foot. The castle itself has but one entry, and that by a drawbridge which passes over the ditch aforementioned. On the land side it has four bas- tions, that on the sea containing only two more. That part thereof that looks towards the south is totally inaccessible and impossible to be climbed, through the infinite asperity of the mountain. The north side is surrounded by the river, which hereabouts runs very broad. At the foot of the said castle, or rather mountain, is seated a strong fort, with eight great guns, which commands and impedes the entry of the river. Not much lower are to be seen two other batteries, whereof each hath six pieces of cannon, to defend likewise the mouth of the said river. At one side of the castle are built two great store-houses, in which are deposited all sorts of warlike ammunition, and merchandize, which are brought thither from the inner parts of the country. Near these houses is a high pair of stairs, hewn out of the rock, which serves to mount to the top of the castle. On the west side of the said fortress lies a small port, which is not above seven or eight fathoms deep, being very fit for small vessels and of very good anchorage. Besides this, there lies before the castle, at the entry of

(1) English rendition of the Spanish, ''San Lorenzo.'

the river, a groat rock, scarce to be perceived above water, unless at low tide.

Attack on the Castle.

No sooner bad Uie Spaniards perceived tlie Pirates to come than they began to fire incessantly at them with the biggest of their guns. They came to an anchor in a small port, at the distance of a league more or less from the castle. The next morning very early they went on shore and marched tJirough the woods to attack the castle on that side. This march continued until two o'clock in tlie afternoon, before they could reach the castle, by reason of tlie difficulties of the way, and its mire and dirt. And although their guides served them exactly, notwithstanding they came so near the castle at first that they lost many of their men with the shot from the guns, they being in an open place where nothing could cover nor defend them. This much perplexed the Pirates in their minds, they not knowing what to do, nor what course to take, for on that side, of necessity they must make the assault, and being uncovered from head to foot, they could nOt advance one step without great danger. Besides that, the castle, both for its situation and strength, caused them much to fear the success of their enterprize. But to give it over they dared not, lest they should be reproached and scorned by their companions.

Doomed by a Burning Arrow.

At last, after many doubts and disputes among themselves, they resolved to hazard the assault and their lives after a most desperate manner. Thus they advanced towards the castle, with their swords in one hand and fire- balls in the otlier. The Spaniards defended themselves very briskly, ceasing not to fire at them with tlieir great guns and muskets continually crying withal: Cojne on, ye

Pilot and Guide.

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EnfjIUk doffKj eHcnnet to Ood and our King; let your com- pttnioHM that art brkind come on ttto; ye shall not go to Panama tki» bont. After the Pirates had made some trial to climb up tlie walls, tliey were forced to retreat, which they accordinjjiy did. resting tJiemselves until night. This Inking c(une. they n»turned to the assault, to try if hy the help of their lire-halls they could overcome and i)ull down the pales liefore the wall. This they attempted to do, and while they were about it there happened a very remarkable accident, which gave them the opportunity of the vi<'tory. One of the Pirates was wounded with an arrow in his back, which pierced his body to the other side. This in- stantly he pulled out witli great valour at the side of his breast, then taking a little cotton that he had about him, he wound it al)out the said arrow, and putting it into his muskets shot it back into the castle. But the cotton being kindled by the powder, occasioned two or three houses that were within the castle, being thatched with palm leaves, to take fire, which the Spaniards perceived not so soon as was necessary. For this fire meeting wnth a parcel of jiowder, blew it up, and thereby caused great ruin, and no less consternation to the Spaniards, who were not able to account for this accident, not having seen the beginning

Brave Resistance by Defenders.

i'hus tlie Pirates, perceiving the good effect of the arrow and the beginning of the misfortune of the Spaniards were infinitely gladdened thereat. And while they were busied in extinguishing the fire, which caused great con- fusion in the whole castle, having not sufficient water wherewitlial to do it, the Pirates made use of this oppor- tunity, setting fire likewise to the palisades. Thus the fire was seen at the s<ime time in several paits about the castle, which gave them huge advantage against the Spaniards. For many breaches were made at once by the

Brave Besistance by Defenders.

fire among the pales, great heaps of earth falling down into the ditch. Upon these the Pirates climbed up, and got over into the castle, notwithstanding that some Spaniards who were not busied about the fire, cast down upon them many flaming pots, full of combustible matter and odious smells, which occasioned the loss of many of the English. The Spaniards, notwithstanding the great resistance they made, could not hinder the palisades from being en- tirely burnt before midnight. Meanwhile the Pirates ceased not to persist in their intention of taking the castle. To which effect, although the fire was great, they would creep upon the ground, as nigh unto it as they could, and shoot amidst the flames against the Spaniards they could per- ceive on the other side, and thus caused many to fall dead from the walls. When day w\is come, they observed all the movable earth that lay between the pales to be fallen into the ditch in huge quantity. So that now those within the castle did in a manner lie equally exposed to them without, as had been on the contrary before. Whereupon the Pirates continued shooting very furiously against them, and killed great numbo's of Spaniards. For the Governor had given them orders not to retire from those posts which corresponded to the heaps of earth fallen into the ditch, and caused the artillery to be transported to the

Castle Surrenders - Heavy Losses.

Notwithstanding, the fire within the castle still con- tinued, and now the Pirates from without used what means they could to hinder its progress, by shooting incessantly against it. One party of the Pirates w^as employed only to this purpose, and another to watch all the motions of the Spaniards, and take all opportunities against them. About noon the English happened to gain a breach, which the Governor himself defended with twenty-five soldiers. Here was performed a very courageous and warlike re-

sisUooe by the SpanianU, both with miiskots, pikes, stones and swords. Yet notwitlistiuuling, through all these arms the Pirates forced and fought their way, till at last they gained the castJe. The Spaniaixls who remained alivo cast themsekes down from Uio castle into the sea, choosing rather to die precipitated by their own selves (few or none surviving the fall) than ask any quarter for their lives. The Governor himself retreated to the corps du (fanJe,hGfore which were pimped two pieces of cannon. Here he intended still to defend himself, neither would he demand any quarter. But at la^t he was killed with a musket shot, which pierced his skull into the brain.

The Cxovernor being dead, and the corps du garde surrendered, they found still remaining in it alive to the number of thirty men, whereof sciirce ten were not wound- ed. These informed the Pirates that eight or nine of their soldiers had deserted their colours, and were gone to Panama to carry news of their arrival and invasion. These thirty men alone were i-emaining of three hundred and fourteen, wherewith the castle was garrisoned, among which number not one officer was found alive. They were all made prisoners, and compelled to tell whatever they knew of their designs and enterprises. Among other things they declared that the Governor of Panama had notice sent him three weeks ago from Cartigena, how that the English were equipping a fleet at Hispaniola, with design to come and take the said city of Panama. Moreover, that this their intention had been known by a person, who had run away from the Pirates at the river De la Hacha, where they provided their fleet with corn. That, upon this news, the Kaid (Tovernor had sent one hundred and sixty-four men to strengthen the garrison of that castle, together with much provisions and warlike ammunition; the ordinary garrison whereof did only consist of one hundred and fifty men. So that in all Ihey made the number aforementioned of three hundred and fouileen men being all very well anned. Besides this they had declared that the Governor

Castle Surrenders. - Heavy Losses.

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of Panama had placed several ambuscades all along the river of Chagre, and that he waited for their coming, in the open fields of Panama, with three thousand six hun- dred men.

The taking of this castle of Chagre cost the Pirates excessively dear, in comparison to the small numbers they used to lose at others time and places. Yea, their toil and labour here far exceeded what they sustained at the conquest of the Isle of St. Catharine and its adjacent. For coming to number their men, they found that they had lost above one hundred, besides those that were wounded, whose number exceeded seventy. They com- manded the Spaniards that were prisoners to cast all the dead bodies of their own men down from the top of the mountain to the seaside, and afterAvards to bury them. Such as were wounded were carried to the church belong- ing to the castle, of which they made a hospital, and where also they shut up the women.

Morgan Starts for San Lorenzo.

Capt. Morgan remained not long time behind at the Isle of St. Catharine, after taking i:he castle of Chagre of which he had notice presently sent him. Yet notwith- standing, before he departed thence, he caused to be em- barked all the provisions that could be found, together with great quantities of maize or Indian wheat, and

CMsaTa, whereof in like manner is made bread in those parts. He commanded likewise great stoi-e of provisions should be transported to the garrison of the aforesaid casUe of Chagre. from what parts soever tliey could he got At a certain place on the island they cast into the sea all tho guns belonging thereto, with a design to return and leaTe that island well garrisoned, for the perpetual possession of Pirates. Notwitlistanding, he ordered all the houses and forts to he set on fire, excepting only the castlo of St Teresa, which he judged to he tho strongest and securest wherein to secure liimself at his return from Panama, He carried with him all the prisoners of the island, and thus set sail for the river of Chagre, where he arrived in tlie space of 'eight days. Here the joy of the whole ileet was so great, when they spied the English colours upon tlie castle that they minded not their way into the river, which occasioned them to lose four of their ships at the entry thereof, that, wherein Capt. Morgan went being one of the four. Yet their fortune was so good as to 1)0 able to save all the men and goods that were in the said vessels. Yea, the ships likewise had been preserved, if a strong northerly wind had not risen on that occasion, which cast the ships upon the rock above mentioned, that lies at the entry of the said river.

Capt Morgan was brought into the castle with great acclamations of triumph and joy of all the Pirates, both of those that were within, and also them that were newly come. Having understood the whole transactions of the conquest, he commanded all the prisonei-s to begin to v.ork and repair what was re essary, especially in setting up new palisades, or pales, round about the forts depend- ing on the castle. There were still in the river some Spanish vessels, called by them chatten, which serve for the transportation of merchandize up and down the said river, as also for going to Porto Bello and Nicaragua. These are commonly mounted with two great guns of iron and four other small ones of brass. All these vessels they

Morgan Starts for San Lorenzo. . Q^

seized oil, togetlier with four little ships they found there, mid all the cnuoes. In the castle they left a garrison of five hundred men, and in the ships within the river one hundred and fifty more. These thingp; being done^ Captain Morgan departed toward Panama, at the head of one thousand two hundred men. He carried very small pro- visions Avith him, being in good hoi)es he should provide himself sufticiently among the Spanic^rds, whom he knew to lie in ambuscade at several places by the way.

Pirates Set Forth for Old Panama.

Capt, Morgan set forth from the castle of Chagre, towards Panama, the 18th day of January in the year 1G71. He had under his conduct one thousand two hun- dred men, live boats with artillery, and thirty-two canoes, all of which were filled with the said people. Thus he steered his course up the river towards Panama. That day they sailed only six leagues, and came to a place called De los Bracos. Here a party of his men went on shore, oidy to sleep some few hours and stretch their limbs, they being almost crippled with lying too nmch crowded in the boats. After they had rested awhile, they went abroad, to see if any victuals could be found in the neighbouring plantations. But they could find none, the Spaniards being fled and carrying with them all the provisions they had. This day, being the first of their journey, there was amongst them such scarcity of victuals that the greatest part were forced to pass with only a pipe of tobacco, without any other refreshment.

The next day, very early in the morning, they con- tinued their journey, and came about evening to a place called Cruz de Juan Gallego. Here they were compelled to leave their boats and canoes, by reason the river was very dry for want of rain, and the many obstacles of trees that were fallen into it.

The guides told them that about two leagues farther on the country would be very good to continue the journey

by land. Her. tiiey left some companies, being in all

one hundiXMl . men, on board the boats to defend

tbciu, Willi intent Uiey migbt serve for a place of refuge, in case of necessity.

Tbe next nioniing, being tlio tliird day of their journey, they all went ashore, excepting tJiose abovenien- tiontnl who werc to keep tlie lioats. Tu tliesc Capt. Morgan gave very strict onlors, under givat penalties, that no man, upon any pretext whatsoever, shoukl chiro to leave the boats and go ashoi-e. This ho did, fearing lest they should be sui prised and cut off by an ambuscade of Spaniards, that might chance to lie thei-eabouts in the neighbouring wooils, which appeared so "thick as to seem almost im-

Having tliis morning begun their march they found tiie ways so diily and irksome, that Capt Morgan thought it moi*e convenient to transport some of the men in canoes (tliough it could not be done without great labour) to a place farther up the river called Cedro Bueno. Thus they i"e-end)arked, and the canoes returned for the rest that were left behind. So tliat about night they found tliem- selves altogether at tlie said place. The Pirates were ex- tremely desirous to meet any Spaniards, or Indians, hoping to till their bellies with what provisions they should take from them. For now they were reduced almost to the very extremity of hunger.

On the fourth day, the greatest pail of the Pirates marched by land, being led by one of the guides. The rest went by water, farther up witli the canoes, being con- ducted by another guide, who always went before them with two of the said canoes, to discover on both sides of the river the ambuscades of the Spain'ards. These had also spies, who were very dextrous, and could at any time give notice of all accidents or of the arrival of th<' PIr.M.s. six hours at least Ixjfore they came to any place.

This day about noon they found themselves near a post, called Torna Cavallos. Here the guide of the canoes

lM*f^in u» cry aloud ho |)«'iTcivcHl tin ainlnisciido. His volco cause iiiHnito joy 1<> all the Pirates, as pei^suading tht'iu-

Pirates Feast on Leather Bags

Hiin^' come to the place, tliey found nobody in it, the Spaniards who were there not long before being every one fled, and leaving nothing behind unless it were a small number of leatlier bags, all empty, and a few ciumbs of bread scattered u|K)n the ground where they had eaten. Being angry at this misfortune, they pulled down a few little huts which the Spaniards had made, and afterwards fell to eating the leather bags, as being desirous to afford something to the ferment of their stomachs, which now was grown so sharp that it did gnaw their very bowels, having nothing else to pn^y upon. Thus they m<ade a huge banquet upon those bags of leather, which doubtless had been more grateful unto them, if divers quarrels had not risen con- cerning who should have the greatest share.

By the circumference of the place, they conjectured five hundred Spaniards, more or less, had been tliere. And these, finding no victuals, they were now infinitely desirous to meet, intending to devour some of them rather than |)erish. Whom they would certainly on that occasion have roasted or boiled, to satisfy their famine, had they been able to take them.

After they had feasted themselves with those pieces of leather they quitted the place, and marched farther on, till they came about night to another post called Torna Munni. Here they found another aml)uscade but as barren and desert as the former. They searched the neighbouring woods, but could not find the least thing to eat, the Spaniards having lieen so provident as not to leave behind them anywhere the least crumb of sustenance, whereby the Pirates were now brought to the extremity aforementioned

Pirates Feast on Leather Bags. 69

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HerQ again he was happy, that had reserved since noon any small piece of leather whereof to make his sup- per, drinking after it a good draught of water for his great- est comfort. Some persons, who were never out of their mothers' kitchens may ask how these Pirates could eat, swallow and digest those pieces of leather, so hard and dry. To whom T only answer: That could they once ex- periment what hunger, or rather famine, is, they would certainly find the manner, by their own necessity, as the Pirates did. For these first took the leather, and sliced it in pieces. Then did they beat it between two stones, and rub it, often dipping it in the water of the river, to render it by this means supple and tender. Lastly, they scraped off the hair, and roasted or broiled it upon the fire. And being thus cooked they cut it into small morsels, and ate it, helping it down with frequent gulps of water, which by good fortune they had near at hand.

Food Continues Scarce.

They oontiuaed their march the fifth day. and about noon came to a place called Barbacoa (1). Hero likewise they found traces of another ambuscade, but the place totally as unprovided as the two preceding were. At a small distance were to be seen several plantations, which they searched very narrowly, but could not find any pei-soii, animal or other thing tliat was capable of relieving their extreme and ravenous hunger. Finally, having ranged up and down and searched a long time, they found a certain grotto which seemed to bo but lately hewn out of a rock, in which they found two sacks of meal, wheat and like things, with two great jars of wine, and certain fruits called Platanos (2). Capt Morgan knowing that some of his men were now, through hunger, reduced almost to the extremity of tlieir lives, and fearing lest the major part should be brought into the same condition, caused all tliat was found to 1)^ distributed amongst them who were in greatest necessity.

Having refreshed themselves with these victuals, they began to march anew with greater courage than ever. Such as could not go well for weakness were put in the canoes, and those commanded to land that were in them before. Thus they prosecuted their journey till late at night at which time they came to a plantation where they took up their rest. But without eating anything at all for the Spaniards as before, had swept away all manner of provisions, not leaving behind them the least sign of

On the sixth day tliey continued their march, part of them by land through the woods and part by water in the canoes. Howbeit tliey were constrained to rest themselves

crosses the Chagres.

(2). Plantains, one of the chief products of the Isthmus to-day.

Food Continues Scarce. "71

very frequently by the way, both for the ruggedness thereof and the extreme weakness they were under. To this they endeavoured to occur, by eating some leaves of trees and green herbs, or grass, such as they could pick, for such was the miserable condition they were in. This day, at noon, they arrived at a plantation, where they found a barn full of maize. Immediately they beat down the doors, and fell to eating of it dry as much as they could devour. Afterwards they distributed great quantity, giving to every man a good allowance thereof.

Traces of Indian Ambuscades.

Being thus provided, they prosecuted their journey, which having continued for the space of an hour, or there- abouts, they met with an ambuscade of Indians. This they no sooner had discovered, than they threw away their maize, with the sudden hopes they conceived of finding all things in abundance. But after all this haste, they found themselves much deceived, they meeting neither Indians, nor victuals, nor anything else of what they had imagined. They saw notwithstanding on the other side of the river a troop of a hundred Indians, more or less, who all escaped away through the agility of their feet. Some few Pirates there were who leapt into the river, the sooner to reach the shore to see if they could take any of the said In- dians prisoners. But all was in vain for being much

Will J3e Ptiblislied Annually. The 1909 Edition will appear in December, 1908.

more nimblo o» their feet than the Pirates, tliey easily baft1e<i their eiuleavours. Neither did they only bafHo them, but killed also two or three of tlie Pirates with their armws, shouting at them at a distance and crying: Jfa; prrros, a la savana^ a la narana. Ha; ye doffs^ go to the plain ^ go to the plain .

This day tliey could advance no farther, by reason they were necessitated to pass the river hereabouts to con- tinue their march on the other side. Hereupon they took up tlieir rejiose for that night Howbeit their sloop was not heavy nor profound, for great munnurings wore hoard tliat night in tlie camp, many complaining of Oapt. Morgan and his conduct in tliat enterprize, and being desirous to return home. On the contrary, others would rather die there than go back one step fi*om what they had under- taken. But othoi-s who had greater courage than any of these two parties did laugh and joke at all their discourses. In tlie meanwhile they had a guide who much comforted them, saying: It would not be long before iheg met tcitli people, from whom they should reap considerable ad-

Arrive at Cruces.

The seventh day, in the morning, they all made clean their arms, and every one discharged his pistol or musket, without bullet, to examine the security of their firelocks. This being done, they passed to the other side of the river in the canoes, leaving the post wliore thoy had rested the night before, called Santa Cruz. Thus thoy i)n)C(^odocl on their journey till noon, at which time they arrived at a village called Cruz (1). Being at a great distance as yet from the place, they perceived much smoke to arise out of the chimneys.

(1) Now called Crucf g, head of navigation on the Chagres for parties bound for Panama.

7^ rOoi and Ouide,

The sight hereof afforded tliem great joy and hopes of finding people in tlie town, and afterwards what they most desired, which was plenty of good cheer. Thus they went on with as much haste as they could, making several all like castles built in the air. Fori said tliey, there is smoke coming out of ever if houfte, therefore they are ffMking good fires, to roast and boil irhat ire are to eat. With otlier things to this purpose.

At length they an-ived there in groat iiaste, all sweating and panting, hut found no pei*son in the town, nor anything that was eatahle wherewith to refresh them- selves, unless it were good fires to warm themselves, which they wanted not. For the Spaniards before their depar- ture, had every one set fire to his own house, excepting only tlie storehouses and stibles belonging to the King.

Tliey had not left behind them any beast whatsoever, eitlier alive or dead. This occasioned much confusion iu their minds, they not finding the least thing to lay hold on, unless it were some few cats and dogs, which they immediately killed and devoured witli great appetite.

At last in the King's stables they found by good fortune fifteen or sixteen jars of Peru wine, and a leather sack full of bread. But no sooner had they begun to drink of the said wine when they fell sick, almost every man. This sudden disaster made them think that the wine was poisoned, which caused a new consternation in the whole camp, as judging themselves now to be irrecov- erably lost But the true reason was, their huge want of sustenance in that whole voyage, and tlie manifold sorts of trash which they had eaten upon that occasion. Their sickness was so great that day as to cause them to remain there till the next morning, without being able to prosecute their journey as they used to do, in the afternoon.

This village is seatisd in the latitude of 9 >* degrees '.- and 2 minqtes, north, heing distant from the river of

Arrive at Cruces. "7S

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Chagre twenty-six Spanish leagues, (1), and eight from Panama. Moreover, this is the last place to which boats or canoes can come; for which reason they built here store- houses, wherein to keep all sorts of merchandize, which hence to and from Panama are transported upon the backs of mules.

Here, therefore, Capt. Morgan was constrained to leave his canoes and land all his men, though never so weak in their bodies. But lest the canoes should be sur- prized, or take up too many men for their defence, he resolved to send them all back to the place where the boats were, excepting one, Avhich he caused to be hidden, to the intent it might serve to carry intelligence according to the exigence of affairs. Many of the Spaniards and Indians belonging to this village were fled to the planta- tions thereabouts.

Hereupon Capt. Morgan gave express orders that none should dare to go out of the village, except in whole companies of a hundred together. The occasion hereof was his fear leet the enemies should take an advantage upon his men, by any sudden assault. Notwithstanding, one party of English soldiers, stickled not to contravene these commands, being tempted with the desire of finding victuals. But these were soon glad to fly into the town

(1) Evidently refers to distance from mouth of river.

y^© Pilot and Cii«fo,

again being assaulted with great fury by gome Spaniards and Indians, who snatched up one of the Pirates, and carried him away prisoner. Thus the vigilance and care of Capt, Morgan was not sufticient to prevent every acci- dent tlmt might hapi)en.

Resistance Offered by Indians.

On tlie eighth day, in the morning, Capt Jlorgan sent two luindi-od men befoiv the body of his anny, to discov^'r the way to Panama, and see if they had hiid any ambuscades therein, especially considering that the places by which they weixi to pass were very tit for that purpose, tlie patlis being so narrow that only ten or twelve persons could march in a file and oftentimes not so many.

Having marched about the space of ten hours, they came to a place called Quebrada Obscura. Here, all on the sudden, three or four thousand arrows were shot at tliem, without being able to perceive whence they came, or who shot them. The place whence it was presumed they were shot was a high rocky mountain, excavated from one side to the other, wherein was a grotto that went through it, only capable of admitting one horse, or other beast laded. This multitude of arrows caused a huge alarm among the Pirates, especially because they could not dis- cover the place whence they were discharged.

At last seeing no more arrows to appear they marched a little farther, and entered into a wood. Here they i)erceived some Indians to fly as fast as they could jMissilily licfor-? them, to take the advantage of another post, and thence observe the march of the Pirates. There remained notwithstnuling one troop of Indians ujkju the place, with full design to tight and defend themselves. This combat they j)erformed with huge courage, till such time as their captain fell to the ground wounded, who although he was now in despair of life, yet his valour being greater than his strength, would demand no quarter.

Resistance offered hy Indians. "7*7

but, endeavouring to raise himself, witli undaunted mfnd laid hold of his azagaya, or javelin, and struck at one of the Pirates. But before he could second the blow, he was shot to death with a pistol. This was also the fate of many of his companions, who like good and courageous soldiers lost their lives with their captain, for the defence of their country.

"A la Savana, Perros Ingleses."

The Pirates endeavoured, as much as possible, to lay hold on some of the Indians and take them prisoners. But they being infinitely swifter than the Pirates, every one escaped, leaving eight Pirates dead upon the place, and ten wounded. Yea, had the Indians been more dex- trous in military affairs, they might have defended that passage and not let one sole man to pass. Within a little while after they came to a large campaign (champaign) field open, and full of variegated meadows. From here they could perceive at a distance before them a parcel of Indians, who stood on top of a mountain, very near the way by which the Pirates wer9 to pass. They sent a troop of fifty men, the nimblest they could pick out, to see if they could catch any of them, and afterwards force them to declare whereabouts their companions had their mansions. But all their industry was in vain, for they escaped through their nimbleness, and presently afterwards showed themselves in another place, hallooing to the English, and crying: J, la savana, A la savana, cornudos, perros Ingleses; that is, To the plain ^ to the plain, ye cnch, oldsy ye English dogs . While these things passed, the ten Pirates that were wounded a little before were dressed and plastered up.

At this place there was a wood, and on each side thereof a mountain. The Indians had immediately possessed themselves of one, and the Pirates took possession of the other that was opposite to it. Capt. Morgan was persuaded

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that in the wood the Spaniards had placed an ambuscade, ai lying so conveniently for that purpose. Hereupon he sent before two hundred men to search it The Spaniards and Indians perceiving the Pirates to descend the moun- tain, did 80 too, as if they designed to attack them. But being got into the wood, out of sight of the Pirates, they disappeared, and were seen no more, leaving tlie passage open to them.

About night there fell a great rain, which caused the Pirates to march the faster and seek everywhere for houses wherein to preserve their arms from being wet. But the Indians had set fire to every one thereabouts, and transported all their cattle to remote places, to the end that the pirates, finding neither houses nor victuals, might be constrained to return homewards. Notwithstinding, after diligent search, they found a few little huts belong- ing to shepherds, but in them nothing to eat. These not being capable of holding many men, they placed in them

A la Savana, Perros Ingleses. 7^9

out of every company a small riumber; who kept the arms of all the rest of the army. Those who remained in the open field endured much hardship that night, the rain not ceasing to fall until the morning.

The End of the March.

The next morning about break of day being the ninth of this tedious journey, Capt. Morgan continued his march while the fresh air of the morning lasted. For the clouds then hanging as yet over their heads were much more favourable to them than the scorching rays of the sun, by reason the way was now more difficult and labor- ious than all the preceding. After two hours' march they discovered a troop of about twenty Spaniards, who ob- served the motions of the Pirates. They endeavoured to catch some of them, but could lay hold on nojie, they suddenly disappearing, and absconding themselves in caves among the rocks totally unknown to the Pirates.

At last they came to a high mountain, which, when they ascended, they discovered from the top thereof the South Sea. This happy sight, as if it were the end of their labours, caused infinite joy among all the Pirates. Hence they could descry also one ship and six boats, which were set forth from Panama and sailed towards the islands of Tovago and Tovagilla, (Taboga and Taboguilla). Having descended this mountain, they came to a vale (the Sabanas of the present day), in which they found great quantity of cattle, whereof they killed good store. Here while some were employed in kiUing and flaying of cows, horses, bulls and chiefly asses, of which there was a very large number, others busied themselves in kindling of fires and getting wood wherewith to roast them. Thus cutting the flesh of these animals into convenient pieces, or gobbets, they threw them into the fire, and half carbonadoed or roasted, they devoured them with incredible haste and appetite. For such w^as their hunger that they more resembled cannibals

Pilot ami Gii«le

The End of the March.

than Europeans at this banquet, the blood many times running down from their beards to the middle of their

Having satisfied their, hunger with these delicious meats, Capt. Morgan ordered them to continue the march. Here again he sent before the main body fifty men, with intent to take some prisoners, if possibly they could. For he seemed now to be much concerned that in nine days' lime he could not meet one person who might inform him of the condition and forces of the Spaniards.

About evening they discovered a troop of two hundred Spaniards, more or less, who hallooed to the Pirates, but these could not understand what they said. A little while after they came the first time within sight of the highest steeple of Panama. This steeple they no sooner had dis- covered than they began to show signs of extreme joy, casting up their hats into the air, leaping for mirth, and shouting, even just as if they had already obtained the victory and entire accomplishment of their designs. All the trumpets were sounded and every drum beaten, in token of this universal acclamation and huge alacrity of their minds.

Thus they pitched their camp for that night with general content of the whole army, waiting with impatience for the morning, at which time they intended to attack the city. This evening there appeared fifty horses, who came out of the city, hearing the noise of the drums and trumpets of the Pirates, to observe, as it was thought, their motions. They came almost within musket-shot of the army, being preceded by a trumpet that sounded mar- vellously w^ell. Those on horseback hallooed aloud to the Pirates, and threatened them, saying: Ferros! nos veremos. that is, Ye dogs! we shall meet ye. Having made this menace, they returned into the city, excepting only seven or eight horsemen w^ho remained hovering thereabouts to watch what motions the Pirates made.

32 PHot and GMide.

Imm(ydiaU»ly after, tlie city began to fire and ceased not to play with their biggest guns all iiiglit long agniiist the camp, but wiUi little or no harm to the Pirates, whom they could not conveniently reach. Alwut Uiis time also the two hundred Spaniards wnom the Pirates had seen in the afternoon appeared again within sight, making re- semblance as if they would block up the passages, to tJie intent no Pirates might esca|>o the hands of their forces. But tije Pirates, who were now in a manner besieged, instead of conceiving any fear of their blockades, as soon as they had placed sentries about their camp, l)egan every one to open their satchels, and without any preparation of napkins or plates, fell to eating very heartily the remain- ing pieces of bulls' and horses' flesh which they had reserved since noon. This benig done they laid themselves down to sleep upon the grass with great repose and huge satisfac- tion, expecting only with unpatience the dawning of the next day.

Preparations for Attack.

On the tenth day betimes in the morning, they put all their men in convenient order, and with drums and trumpets sounding, continued their march directly towards the city. But one of the guides desired Capt Morgan not to take the common highway that led thitlier, fearing lest they should find in it much resistance and many ambus-

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Prejyarations for Attack, 83

cades. He presently took his advice, and chose another way that went through the wood, although very irksome and difficult. Thus the Spaniards, perceiving the Pirates had taken another way, which they scarce had thought on or believed, were compelled to leave their stops and bat- teries, and come out to meet them. The Governor of Panama put his forces in order, consisting of two squad- rons, four regiments of foot, and a huge number of wild bulls, which were driven by a great number of Indians, with some negroes and others, to help them.

The Pirates, being now upon their march, came to the top of a little hill, whence they had a large prospect of the city and campaign (champaign) country underneath. Here they discovered the forces of the people of Panama, extended in battle aiTay and when they perceived them to be so numerous, they were suddenly surprized with great fear, much doubting the fortune of the day. Yea, few or none there were but wished themselves at home, or at least free from the obligation of that engagement, wherein they per- ceived their lives must be so narrowly concerned.

Having been some time at a stand, in a wavering condition of mind, they at last reflected upon the straits they had brought themselves into, and that now they ought of necessity either to fight resolutely or die, for no quarter could be expected from an enemy against whom they had committed so many cruelties on all occasions. Hereupon they encouraged one another, and resolved eitlier to con- quer, or spend the very last drop of blood in their bodies. Afterwards they divided themselves into three battalions, or troops, sending before them one or two hundred buc- caneers, which soit of people are infinitely dextrous at shooting with guns. Thus the Pirates left the hill and descended marching directly towards the Spaniards, who were posted in a spacious field, waiting for their coming.

As soon as they drew near them, the Spaniards began to shout, and cry, Viva el Bey ! God save the King! and immediately their horse began to move against

Q<^ Pilot and OiOdt,

the Pirates. But the field heing full of quags and Tery soft under foot, they could not ply to and fro and wheel about, as they desired. The two hundred buccaneers who went before, every one putting one knee to the ground, gave them a full volley of shot, wherewith tlie battle was instantly kindled very hot

Wild Bulls Used in Battle.

The Spaniai-ds defended themselves very courageously, acting' all tliey could possibly perform, to disorder the Pirates. Their foot, in like manner, endeavoui'ed to second the horse, but were constrained by tlie Pirates to separate from tliem. Thus finding themselves frustrated of their designs, they attempted to drive the bulls against them at their backs, and by this means put them into disorder, but the greatest part of the wild cattle ran away, being frightened with the noise of the battle, and some few that broke through the English companies did no other hann than to tear the colours in pieces, whereas tlio buc- caneers shooting tlicm dead, left not one to trouble them

The battle having now continued for the space of two hours, at the end tliereof the greatest part of the Spanish horse was ruined and ahnost all killed. The rest fled away, which being perceived by the foot, and that they could not possibly prevail, they discharged the shot they had in their muskets, and throwing them on the ground, l^etook themselves to flight, every one which way he could run. The Pirates could not possibly follow them, as being too much harassed and wearied with the long journey they had lately made. Many of tliem, not being able to fly whither they desired, hid themselves for that present among the shrubs of the sea-side. But very un- fortunately, for most of them being found out by the Pirates, were instantly killed, without giving quarter to any. Some religious men were brought prisoners before Captain

Wild Bulls Used in Battles. 8S

Morgan, but he being deaf to their cries and lamentations, commanded them all to be immediately pistoled, which was immediately done.

Soon after they brought a captain to his presence, whom he examined very strictly about several things, par- ticularly wherein consisted the forces of those of Panama. To which he answered: Their whole strength did consist in four hundred horse, twenty-four companies of foot, each being of one hundred men complete, sixty Indians and some negroes, who were to drive two thousand wild bulls and cause them to run over the English camp, and thus by breaking their files put them into a total disorder and confusion. He discovered more, that in the city they had made trenches, and raised batteries in several places, in which they had placed many guns, and that at the entry of the highway which led to the city they had built a fort, which was mounted with eight great guns of brass, and defended by fifty men.

orders instantly they should march another way. But before setting forth, he made a review of all his men, wheroof ho found iK^tli killed and wounded a considerable number, and much gi-eater than had l)een believed. Of the Spanianis wei*e found six hundred dead upon the place, besides the wounled and prisoiiei-s. The Pirates were nothing discouraged, seeing their number so much diminished, but rather filled with gi-eater pride than before, perceiving what huge advantage they had obtained against their enemies. Thus having rested tliemselves some while, they pirpiired to march courageously towards the city, plighting their oaths to one another in general they would tight till never a man was left alive. With this courage they recommenced their march, either to conquor or be conquered, carrying with them all the prisoners.

They found much difficulty in their approach to the city. For within the town the Spaniards had placed many great guns, at several quartei-s thereof, some of which were charged with small pieces of iron, and othei*8 with musket-bullets. With all these they saluted the Pirates at their drawing nigh to the place, and gave them full and frequent broadsides, firing at them incessantly. Whence it came to pass that unavoidably they lost, at every step they advanced, great numbers of men. But re ther these manifest dangers to their lives, nor tlie sight of so many of their own men dropping down continually at their sides, could deter them from advancing farther and gaining ground every moment upon the enemy. Thus, although the Spaniai*ds never ceased to fire and act the best they could for their defence, yet notwithstanding they were forced to deliver the city after the space of three hours' combat

The Pirates having now possessed themselves tliereof, killed and destroyed as many as attempted to make the least opposition against them. The ir.habitants had caused the best of their goods to be transported to more remote

Wild Bulls Used in Batiks. Q'y

and occult places. Howbeit they found within the city as yet several warehouses, very well stocked with all sorts of merchandize, as well as silks, cloths, linen, and other things of considerable value.

As soon as the first fury of their entrance into the city was over, Capt. Morgan assembled all his men at a certain place which he assigned, and there commanded them under very great penalties that none of them should dare to drink or taste any wine. The reason he gave for this injunction was, because he had received private intelh- gence that it had been all poisoned by the Spaniards. Howbeit it was the opinion of many that he gave these prudent orders to prevent the debauchery of his people, which he foresaw would be very great at the beginning, after so much hunger sustained by the way, fearing withal lest the Spaniards seeing them in wine, should rally their forces and fall upon the city, and use them as inhumanly as they had used the inhabitants before.

Morgan Sets Fire to the City.

Capt. Morgan, as soon as he had placed guards at several quarters where he thought necessary, both within and without the city of Panama, immediately commanded twenty-five men to seize a great boat, which had stuck in the port for want of water at a low tide, so that she could not put out to s^a. The same day, about noon, he caused certain men privately to set fire to several great edifices of the city, nobody knowing whence the fire pro- ceeded nor who were the authors thereof, much less what motives persuaded Capt. Morgan thereto, which are as yet unknown to this day. The fire increased so fast that before night the greatest part of the city was in flame.

Capt. Morgan endeavoured to make the public believe the Spaniards had been the cause thereof, which suspicions he surmised among his own people, perceiving they reflected upon him for that action. Many of the Spaniards, as also

Pilot and GirM0.

some of the Pirates, used all the means possible either to extinguish the flame, or hv blowing up houses with gufi- powder, and pulling down otlicrs, to stop its progress. But all was in vain for in less than half an hour it consumed

The Wealth of Old Panama.

All the houses of this city were built with cedar, being of very curious and magnificent structure, and richly adorned within, es|)ecially with Iiangings and paintings whereof part was already transportel out of the l^irates' waj, and another gix»at part Mas consumed by the voiacity of the fire. There belonged to this city (which is also the head of a bsbopric), eight monasteries, wliereof seven were for men and one for women, two stat'ly churches and one hospital. The churches and monasteries were all richly adorned with altar-pieces and paintings, and huge (piantity of gold and silver, with other precious things all of which the ecclesiastics had hidden and concealed.

Besides the above ornaments, here were to be seen two thousand houses of magnificent and prodigious liuild- ing, being all or the greatest part inhabited by merchants of that country who are vastly rich. For the rest of the inhabitants of lesser quality and tradesmen, this city con- tained five thousand houses more. Here were also a great numl)er of stables which served for the horses and mules that cany all the plate, belonging as well to the King of Spain as to private men, towards the coast of the North Sea. The neighbouring fields belonging to this city are all cultivated with fertile plantations and j)leasant gardens, which affonl delicious prospects to the inhabitants the whole year long,

The Genoese had in this city of Panama a stately and magnificent house belonging to their trade and com- merce of negroes. This building likewise was commanded by Capt Morgan to be set on fire whereby it was burnt

The Wealth of Old Panama.

to the very ground. Besides which pile of buildings, there were consumed to the number of two hundred warehouses, and a great number of slaves who had hid themselves therein, together with an infinite multitude of sacks of

The fire of all the houses and buildings was seen to continue four weeks after the day it began. The Pirates in the meanwhile, at least the greatest part of them, camped some time without the city, fearing and expecting that the Spaniards would come and fight them anew. For it was known that they had an incomparable number of men more than the Pirates had. This occasioned them to keep the field thereby to preserve their forces united, which now were very much diminished by the losses of the preceding battles, as also because they had a great many wounded, all of which they had put into one of the churches which alone remained standing, the rest being consumed by the fire. Moreover, besides these decreases of their men, Capt. Morgan had sent a convoy of one hundred and fifty men to the Castle of Chagre, to carry the news of his victory obtained against Panama.

They saw many times whole troops of Spaniards cruize to and fro in the campaign (champaign) fields w^hich gave them occasion to suspect their rallying anew. Yet they never had the courage to attempt anything against the Pirates. In the afternoon of this fatal day Captain

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Moigaii re-entered again Uio city with his troops, to tlio intent that every one might take up his lodgings, which now tliey could hardly find, very few houses having es- caped tlio desolation of the f\n\ Soon after tliey fell to seeking very carefully among the ruins and ashes for utensils of plate or gold which iH»radventuiti were not quite wasUni hy tlie flames. And of such things tliey found no small number in several places, csiMJcially in wells and cisterns where the Spaniards had hid them from the covetous search of the Pirates.

The next day Capt Morgan despatched away two tit)opi\ of Pirates, of one hundrod and fifty men each, being nil very stout soldiers and well .umed, with orders to seek for the inhabitants of Panama who were escaped from the hands of their enemies. These men, having made several excni'sions up and down the cinipaign (champaign) fields, woods and mountiiiis, adjoining to Panama, returned after two days' time, bringing with them above two hun-

Escape of the Treasure Galleon.

The same day returned also the boat above mentioned, which Capt Morgan had sent into the South Sea, bring- ing with it three other boats which they had taken in a little while. But all these prizes they could willingly have given, yea, although they had employed greater labour into the bargain for one certain galleon which miraculously C8cape<l their industry, being very richly laden with all the King's plate and a great quantity of riches of gold, pearls, jewels and other most precious goods of all the best and richest merchants of Panama. On board of this galleon were also the religions women, belonging to the nunnery of the said city, who had embarked witJi them all the ornaments of the church consisting of a large quantity of gold, plate and other things of great value.

Ino-porter of

ISTo. 39 KPS-Oisrx SXR-EEIT:,

Goloi), I^epablic of Par^ama.

The strength of this galleon was nothing considcrahle as having only seven guns and ten or twelve muskets for its whole defence, being on the other side very ill-provided of victuals and other necessaries, with great want of fresh water, and having no more sails than the uppermost sails of the main mast This description of the said ship, the Pirates received from certain persons who had spoken with seven mariners belonging to the galleon, at such time as they came ashore in the cock-boat to take in fresh water. Hence tliey concluded for certain they might easily- have taken the said vessel had they given her chaso and pursued her, as tliey ought to have done, especially con- sidering the said galleon could not long subsist at sea.

But they were impeded from following this vastly rich prize by gluttony and drunkenness, having plentifully debauched themselves with several soils of rich wines they fcund there ready to their hands. So that they chose rather to satiate their appetite with the things above-

Escape of the Treasure (ralle<ni, 93

mentionecl, than to lay hold on the occasion of such a huge advantage, although this sole prize would certainly have heen of far greater value and consequence to tJiem than all they secured at Panama, and other places thereabout

The next day. repenting of their negligence, and being totally wearied of the vices and debaucheries afore- said, they set forth to sea another boat well armed, to ])ursue with all speed imaginable the said galleon. But their present care and diligence w^as in vain, the Spaniards who were on board the said ship having received intelli- gence of the danger they were in one or two days before, while the Pirates were cruizing so near them, whereupon they fled to places more remote and unknown to their

Take Prizes at Taboga.

Notwithstanding, the Pirates found in the ports of the islands of Tavoga and Tavogilla (Taboga and Tabo- guilla), several boats that were laden with many sorts of very good merchandize all of w^h'ch they took and brought to Panama where, being arrived, they made an exact re- lation of all that had passed while they were abroad to Capt Morgan. The prisoners confirmed what the Pirates had said, adding thereto, that they undoubtedly knew whereabouts the said galleon might be at that present, but that it was very probable they had been relieved before now from other places.

These lelations stirred up Capt. Morgan ane>y to send forth all the boats that were in the port of Panama, with design to seek and pursue the said galleon till they could find her. The boats aforesaid, being in all four, set sail from Panama and having spent eight days in cruizing to and fro and searching several ports and creeks, they lost all their hopes of finding what they so earnestly sought

Pitot and Guide.

Take Prizes at Taboga. Q5

Hereupon they resolved to return to the isles of Tavoga and Tavogilla. Here they found a reasonably good ship that was newly come from Payta, (Peru), being laden with cloth, soap, sugar and biscuit, and with twenty thousand pieces of eight in ready money. This vessel they instantly seized, not finding the least resistance from any pei*son within her. Near to the said ship was also a boat, whereof in like manner they possessed them- selves. Upon the boat they laded great part of the mer- chandize they had found in the ship, together with some slaves they had taken in the said islands. With this pur- chase they returned to Panama, something better satisfied of their voyage, yet withal much discontented they could not meet with the galleon.

The convoy which Capt. Morgan had sent to the castle of Chagre returned much about the same time, bringing with them very good news. For while Captain Morgan was upon his journey to Panama, those he had left in the castle of Chagre had sent forth to sea two boats to exercise piracy. These happened to meet with a Spanish ship, which they began to chase within sight of the castle. This being perceived by the Pirates that were in the castle, they put forth Spanish colours, thereby to allure and deceive the ship that fled before the boats. Thus the poor Spaniards thinking to find refuge for them- selves under the castle and the guns thereof, by flying into the port, were caught in a snare and made prisoners where they thought to find defence. The cargo which was found on board the said vessel consisted of victuals and provisions that were all eatable things. Nothing could be more opportune than this prize for the castle, w^here they had begun already to experience great scarcity of things of this kind.

Torture of Prisoners.

This good fortune of the garrison of Chagre gave occasion to Capt. Morgan to remain longer time than he

Q^ Pilot and Guide

had determined at Panama. And hereupon he ordered sevenil new excui-sions to l>c mado Into the whole country round about the city. So that while the Pirntos at Pan.itnn were employed in these expeditions, those at Cliagr ' wen* busied in exercising piracy upon the Noilh Sea.

Capt Morgan used to send forth daily parties of two hundred men to make ini*oads into all the fields and coun- ti7 theit»about.s and when one party came back, another consisting of two hundred more was ready to go forth. By this means they gathered in a short time a huge riuan- tity of riches, and a no lossei number of prisoners. These, Wing bmught into the city, were presently put to the most exquisite tortures imaginable to make them confess both other |)eople's goods and their own.

Here it happened that one poor and miserable . wit^tch was found in the house of a gentleman of great quality, who had put on, amidst the confusion of things, a pair of taffety breeches Wlonging to his master with a little silver key banging at the stiings thereof. This being perceived by the Pirates they immediately asked him where knew not what was become of it, but only thnt finding those breeches in bis master's house, he liad made bold to wear them. Not being able to extort any other confession out of him they first put him upon the rack, wherewith they inhumanly disjointed his arms. After this they twisted a cord about his forehead, which they wrung so hard that his eyes appeared as big as eggs, and weic ready to fall out of his skull. But neither with these torments could they obtain any positive answer to their j demands. Whereupon they soon after hung him up, giving ; him infinite blows and stripes while he was under that in- i tolerable pain and posture of body. Afterwaids they cut ' off his nose and ears and singed his face with burning straw, till ho could speak nor lament his misery no longer. Then losing all hopes of hearing any confession from his mouth, they commanded a negro to run him through with

Torture of Prisoners. 9 "7

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a lance, which put an end to his life, and a period to their cruel and inhuman tortures. After this execrable manner did many others of those miserable prisonei-s finish their days, the common sport and recreation of these Pirates being these and other tragedies not inferior.

They sparged in these their cruelties, no sex or con- dition whatsoever. For as to religious persons and priests, they granted them less quarter than to others, unless they could produce a considerable sum of money, capable of being a sufficient ransom. Women themselves were no' better used, and Capt. Morgan, their leader and com- mander, gave them no good example on this point. For as soon as any beautiful woman was brought as a prisoner to his presence, he used all the means he could, both of rigour and mildness, to bend her to his pleasure, for a confirmation of which assertion I shall hare give my reader a short history of a lady, whose virtue and con- stancy ought to be transmitted to posterity as a memorable example of her sex.

Morgan and the Constant Lady.

Among the prisoners that were brought by the Pirates from the islands of Tavoga and Tavogilla, there was found a ^(Mitlc- woman of good quality, as also no less virtue and chastity, who was wife to one of the richest merchants in all of those countries. Her years w^ere but few, and her

beauty 80 great as poradventure I may doubt whetber in all Europe one could be found to surpass her j)erfeotions either of comeliness or honesty. Her husband at that pi'escut was absent from home, IxMug gone as far as the kingdom of Peru, about great concerns of commerce and trade, wherein his employmenta did lie.

This virtuous lady, likewise, hearing tlmt Pirates were coming to assault Panama, had absented herself thence in the company of other friends and relations, tliereby to presene her life amidst the dangers which the cruelties and tyrannies of tliose haixl-hearted enemies did seem to menace to every citizen. But no sooner had she appeared in tlie presence of Capt. Morgan than he commanded they should lodge her in a certain apartment by herself giving her a negress, or black woman, to wait u|)on her, and that she sliould be treated with ail the respect and regale due to her quality. The poor afflicted lady did beg with multitude of sobs and tears she might be suffei-ed to lodge among the other prisoners, her relations, fearing less the unexpected kindness of the commander might prove to be a design upon her chastity. But Capt. Morgan would by no means hearken to her petition, and all he commanded, in answer thereto, was she should l)e tix^ated with more particular care than before and have her vic- tuals carried from his own table.

This lady had formerly heard very strange reports concerning the Pirates, before their arrival at Panama, in- timating to her, as if they were not men, but, as they said, heretics, who did neither invoke the Blessed Trinity, nor believe in Jesus Christ. But now she began to have better thoughts of them tlian ever before having ex- perienced the manifold civilities of Capt Morgan, especially hearing him many times to swear by the name of God, and of Jesus Christ, in whom, she was persuaded they did not believe. Neither did she now think them to be 80 bad. or to have the shapes of beasts, as from the re- lations of several people she had oftentimes heard. For

Morgan and the Constant Lady. ©Q

as to the name of robbers or thievcaj which was commonly given them by otliers, she wondered not much at it seeing, as she said, that among all nations ot' the universe there were to be found some wicked men, who naturally coveted to possess the goods of others.

Conformable to the persuasion of this lady was the opinion of another woman of weak understanding, at Panama who used to say, before the Pirates came thither, she desired very mucli and had a great curiosity to see one of thoso men called Pirates for as much as her hus- band had often told her that they were not men, like others, but rather irrational beasts. This silly woman at last happened to see the first of them, and cried out aloud saying: Jesus bless me! these thieves are like ns Spaniards .

This false civility of Capt, Morgan wherewith he used this lady was soon after changed into barbarous cruelty. For three or four days being past, he came to see her and the virtuous lady repulsed him with all the civility imaginable and many humble and modest expressions of her mind. But Capt. Morgan still persisted in his disorderly request, presenting her withal with much pearl, gold and all that he had got that was precious and valu- able ill that voyage. But the lady being in no manner willing to consent thereto nor accept liis presents, and showing herself in all respects like Susannah for constancy, he presently changed note and began to speak to her in another tone, threatening her with a thousand cruelties and hard usages at his hands.

To air these things she gave this resolute and posi- tive answer, than which no other could be extorted from her: Sir. my life is in your hands; but as to my body^ in relation to that which you would persuade me to, my soul shall sooner be separated from it through the violence of your arms than I shall condescend to your request No sooner had Captain Morgan understood this heroic resolution of her mind than he conunanded her to be stri])pod of the best of her ap- parel and imprisoned in a darksome and stinking cellar.

Here she li.ul allowed her an extremely small quantity of meat and (!rink, >vhei*e>vith she had much ado to sustain life for a few days.

Under this hardship the constant and virtuous lady ceasiHl not In pr:iy daily to (4od Almighty for constancy and patience against the crueltirs <»f ('apt. M(»rg:in. Hut he heing now thoroughly convinced of hf»r chaste resolu- tions, as als > desimup to conceal the cause of her con- finement and hard usage, since many of the Pirates, his companions, did compassionat*; her condition, laid many false accusiitions to her chargo givini( to underst-uul she held intelligence with the »Spaniards and cori-esponded with them by lettei-s nbusiug thereby his former lenity and

1 myself was an eye witness to these things here related, and could never have judged such constancy of mind and virtuous chastity to he found in the world, if my own eyes and eai-s had not informed me thereof. But of this incomparable lady I sh.ill say somothing moi-e here- after in its proper place, whereupon 1 shall leave her at pi^sent to continue my history.

Preparations for Departure.

Capt. Morgan having now been at Panama the full space of three weeks commanded all things to be put in oixler for his departure. To this effect, he gave orders to every company of his men to seek out for so many l)easts of carriage as might suffice to convey the whole spoil of the city to the river where his canoes lay.

About this time a great rumour was spread in the city of a considerable number of Pirates who intended to leave Capt. Morgan and that, by taking a ship which was in the port, they determined to go and rob upon the South Sea till they had got as much as they thought fit, and then return homewards by the way of the East Lidies into Europe. For which purpose, they had already

PrcparaUons for Departure. j Q |

gathered great quantity of provisions, which they had hidden in private places, with sufficient store of powder,' bullets, and all other sorts of ammunition, likewise some ; great guns, belonging to the town, muskets and other j things where with they designed not only to equip the said - vessel but also to fortify themselves and raise batteries iiV : some island or other, which might serve theiir for a place ^'

This design had certainly taken effect as they in-! tended, had not Capt. Morgan had timely advice thereof; given him by one of their comrades. Hereupon he instantly ! commanded the mainmast of the said ship should be cut ' down and burnt, together with all the other boats that ; were in the port. Hereby, the intentions of all or most of i his companions were totally frustrated. After this Captain \ Morgan sent forth many of the Spaniards into the adjoin- J ing fields and country, to seek for money wherewith to'

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ransom not only themselves but also all the rest of the prisoners, as likewise the ecclesiastics, both secular and regular. Moreover he commanded all the artillery of the town to be spoiled, that is to say, nailed and stopped up. At the same time he sent out a strong company of men to seek for the Governor of Panama, of whom in- telligence was brought that he had laid several ambuscades ill the way by which he had to pass on his return. But those who were sent upon this design returned soon after, saying they had not found any sign or appearance of such ambuscades for, a confirmation whereof they brought with them some prisoners they had taken, who declared that the said Governor had had an intention of making some opposition by the way, but that the men whom he designed to effect it were unwilling to undertake any such enter- prize so that for want of means he could not put his design in execution.

Prisoners Held for Ransom.

On the 24th of February of the year 1671, Captain Morgan departed from the city of Pananui, or rather from the place where the said city of Panama did stand; of the spoils whereof he carried with him one hundred and seventy-five beasts of carriage laden with silver, gold and other precious things, besides six hundred prisoners, more or less, between men, women, children and slaves. That day they came to a river th^t passes through a delicious campaign (champaign) fiekl, at tlie distance of a league from Panama.

Here Capt. Morgan put uU his forces into good order of martial array in sudi manner that the prisoners were in the middle of the camp, surrounded on all sides with Pirates. At which present conjuncture nothing else was to be heard but lamentations, cries, shrieks and dole- ful sighs, of the many women and children, who were per- suaded Capt. Morgan designed to transport them all and carry them into his own country for slaves. Besides that,

among all those miserable prisoners there was extreme hunj^er and tln'rst endured at that time, which hardship and misery (.^ipt Morgan designedly caused them to sus- tain, with intent to excite them more earnestly to seek for money wherewith to ransom tliemselves according to the tax he had set upon every one.

Many of the women begged of Capt. Morgan upon their knees, with infinite sighs and tears he would permit them to return to Panama, there to live in company with their dear husbands and children, in their little huts of straw which tlu-y would erect, seeing they had no houses until tlie rebuilding uf the city. But his answer was: He came not hither to hear lamentations and cries, but rather to seek money. Therefore they ought to seek out for tliat in the fii*st place, wherever it were to be had and bring it to him, otherwise he would assuredly transport them all to such places whither tliey cared not to go.

The next day when the march began, those lament- able cries and shrieks were renewed in so much as it would have caused compassion in the hardest heart to hear them. But Capt Morgan, a man little given to mercy, was not moved therewith in the least. They marched in the same order as was said before; one party of the Pirates proceeding in the van, the prisoners in the middle, and the rest of the Pirates in the rear-guard, by whom the miserable Spaniards were at every step, punched and thrust in their backs and sides with the blunt end of their arms to make them march the faster.

Morgan Punislies Treachery.

That beautiful and virtuous lady of whom we miide mention heretofore for her unparalleled constancy and chastity, was led prisoner by herself between two Pirates who guarded her. Her lamentations now did pierce tlie skies, seeing hei-self carried away into foreign captivity, oft«n crying to the Pirates, and telling tliem: That she had

Morgan Punishes Treachcri/. I OS

given ord'.r to two religions persons^ in whom she had relied, to go to a certain place and fetch so much money as her ran. 8om did amount to . That they had promised faithfully to do it, hut having obtained the said money, instead of bringing it to her, they had employed it another way to ransom some of their own and particular friends.

This ill action of theii^ was discovered by a slave, who brought a letter to the said lady. Her complaints, and the cause thereof being brought to the ears of Capt. Morgan, he thought fit to enquire thereinto. Having found the thing to be true, especially hearing it confirmed by the confession of the said religious men, though under some frivolous excuses of having diverted the money but for a day or two, within which time they expected more sums to repay it, he gave liberty to the said lady, whom otherwise he designed to transport to Jamaica. But in the meanwhile he detained the said religious men as prisoners in her place, using them according to the deserts of their iFicompassionate intrigues.

As soon as Capt. Morgan arrived upon his march at the town called Cruz, situated on the banks of the river Chagre as was mentioned before, he commanded an order to be iiublished among the prisoners, that within the space of three days every one of them should bring in his ran- som, under the penalty aforementioned of being trans- ported to Jamaica.

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In tlie meanwhile he gave orders for so mnch crie and niuiz(> to l)0 rollectcHl thcivahouts as was necessary for the victuallinf; of all his ships. At this place sonio of the prisoners weit* ransomed hut many others could not hrinp in their moneys in so short a time. Hereupon he continued his voyage, leaving the village on the Mh day of March next following, and carrying witli him all the spoil that ever he could transjwrt

From this village he likewise led away some new prisoners who wei-e inhahitnnts of the said place. So that these new prisoners were added to those of Panama who had not as yet paid their ransoms, and all transported, i But tlie two i*eligiou8 uhmi who had diverted the money belonging to the la<ly, were ransomed three days after their - imprisonment hy other pei-sons who had more compassion | for their conditi(>n than they had shown for hoi's. -

Pirates Searched for Valuables.

About the middle of the way to the castle of Chagre, : Capt. Morgan connnanded tliem to be placed in due order according to their custom, and caused ever>' one to be ! sworn that they had reserved nor concealed nothing pri- i vately to themselves, even not so much as the value of a i sixix»nce. This being done, Cai)t. Morgan having had some exi)erience that those lewd fellows would not much I stickle to swear falsely in points of interest, he commanded every one to be searched veiT strictly, both in their clothes | and Kiitchels and everywhere it might be presumed they i bad reserved anything. Yea, to tlie intent this order ! might not be ill taken by his companions, he permitted j himself to l)e searliced, even to the very soles of his shoes, f To this effect, by common consent, there was assigned ' one out of every company to be the searchers of 'all the ;

The French Pirates that went on this expedition { with Capt. Morgan were not well satisfied with this new I

Pirates Searched for Valuables. \0'7

custom of searching. Yet their number being less than that of the English, they were forced to submit to it as well as the others had done before them. The search being over, they re-embarked in their canoes and boats, which attended them on the river, and arrived at the castle of Chagre on the 9th day of the said month of March. Here they found all things in good order, eye -Opt- ing the wounded men, whom they had left there at the time of their departure. For of these the greatest number were dead, through the wounds they had received.

Division of Spoils.

From Chagre, Capt. Morgan sent presently after his arrival, a great boat to Porto Bello, wherein were all the prisoners he had taken at the Isle of St Catharine, de- manding by them a considerable ransom for the castle of Chagre, where he then was, threatening otherwise to ruin and demolish it even to the ground. To this message .those of Porto Bello made answer: They would not give one farthing towards the ransom of the said castle, and that the English might do with it as they pleased. This answer being come, the dividend was made of all the spoil they had obtained in tbat voyage. Thus every company, and every particular person therein included, received their portion of what was got, or rather what part Capt. Morgan was pleased to give them. For so it was, that the rest of his companions, even of his own nation, complained of his proceedings in this pailicular, and feared not to tell hira openly to his face that he had reserved the best jewels for himself. For they judged it impossible that no greater share should belong to them than two hundred pieces of eight per capita, of so many valuable booties and rob- beries as they had obtained. Which small sum they thought too little reward for so much labour and such huge and manifest dangers as they had so often exposed their lives to. But Capt. Morgan was deaf to all these

I06 root and Oitide,

and many other complaints of this kind, having designed in his mind to cheat them of as much as lie could.

Morgan Takes French Leave.

At last Capt. Morgan finding hi nisei f obnoxious by many obloquies and detractions among his people, began to fear the consequences thereof and hereupon thinking it unsafe to remain any longer time at Chagre, he command- ed the ordnance of the said castle to be carried on board his ship. Afterwards he caused the greatest part of the walls to be demolished, and the edifices t») be burnt and as many other things spoiled and ruined as could con- veniently be done in a short \Yhile.

These orders being pei-formed. he went secretly on board his own ship, without giving any notice of his de- parture to his companions, nor calling any council as ho

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bidding anybody adieu, being only followed by throe or four vessels of tlie whole Heet. These were such (as the French Pirates believed) as went shai*cs with Capt. Morgart iowaixls tlie best and greatest part of the spoil wliich had been concealed from them in tlie dividend.

The Frenchmen could very willingly have revenged this affront u|>on Oapt. Morgan and those that followed him, had they found themselves with sufficient means to encounter him at sea. But they were destitute of most things necessary thereto. Yea, they had much ado to find sufficient victuals and provisions for their voyage to Jamaica, ho having left them totally unprovided of all

( Written by the late Mr. James Stanley Gilbert of Colon, and pnbliithe4

bg kim in " Panama Patchwork.** Reprinted through the kind

permisaioH given the publisher of this book, by the author,

prior to his death.) i

His Catholic Majesty, Philip of Spain,

Ruled o*er the West Coast, the Indies and Main;

His ships heavy laden with pesos and plate,

Sailed o'er the South Sea with tribute of state.

From Lima and Quito his galleys pulled forth

For Panama pearls and gold of the North;

And cargoes of treasure were sent overland

^VTiile his soldiers kept guard from the gulf to the strand.

From Panama Bay to the port '* Name of God"

Long freight trains of slaves thro' the dense forests trod;

Then, some through the straits and some from the main,

King Philip's good ships sought their owner again.

The Fall of Old Panama.

On England's gi*and throne great Elizabeth reigned,

And on sea and on land her power maintained;

O er the hearts of her subjects, o'er the conquests they made,

O'er their lives and their fortunes her sceptre she swayed,

But her title of ' ' Queen of the Seas '" to dispute

King Philip essayed from the land of the lute;

And velvet-clad Dons cast their love-songs aside

To battle the English, and wind, wave and tide.

In many and moi-tal affray they engaged.

And bravely and fiercely the struggle they waged.

But the men of old Devon - -those stout hearts of oak - -

As often successfully parried each stroke.

The Drakes and the Gilberts, the Grenvils and Leighs,

The Oxenhams, Baleighs - -the props and the stays

Of England's first greatness - were the heroes of old

Who helped Britain's queen with the Spanish king's gold.

They robbed the arch-robber of ill-gotten gain,

And brought England the glory they wrested from Spain.

His galleons they captured, his treasure trains seized -

Outfought him abroad and with zeal unappeased.

At home they defeated the Armada's great fleet.

And laid a world's spoil at Elizabeth's feet.

Alas, that such deeds should grow dim with the years! Alas, that such men should have trained buccaneers! That from such examples - so noble, so true - - A race of marauders and ruffians grew! That friends such as Morgan should follow the wake Of men like John Oxman and Sir Francis Drake, Who swore by the oak, by the ash and the thorn, God helping them always, to sail round the Horn To fair Panama and the placid South Sea, Which they saw one day from the top of a tree ! For old England's glory their standard to raise. To cruise the Pacific and its isle-dotted bays.

Four miles from where Ancon looks down on the Ne^r, Stood Old Panama, whence Pizarro once drew

The bmvent of followers Peru to obtain

And her Iiicas subject to the power of Spain;

There onoe stood cathedrals and palaces fair,

Whoso altars and vessels and tapestries rare

Were the pride of the p«»ople whose opulen<«e then

Was the envy of kinj:^, and the lonpin^of men;

Where once stately streets to the plains stretched away,

And warehouses skirteil the vessel-lined bay;

\Vhere plantations and fCAr<lens and flowering trees

Once perfumed the tropical eveninjf breeze - -

Stands naught but a ruin half hitlden from view,

A pirate's first gift to his blood-thirsty crew !

From sacked Porto Bello redhanded they came,

All bloodstained from conquest unworthy the name,

To the mouth of the Chagres, where, high on the hill,

San Lorenzo kept guard, to plunder and kill

Its devote defenders, who courageously fought

For homes, wives and children, accounting as naught

Their lives held so precious, so cherished before,

Could they drive the fierce pirates away from their shore.

Three days they repulsed them, but to find every night

The foe still upon them in ne'er-ending fight.

Their arms could not conquer the powers of hell !

San Lorenzo surrendered - ingloriously fell !

Burned, famished and bleeding from many a wound,

They lay while their stronghold was razed to the ground.

On, on, up to Cruces the buccaneers sped.

But to find it in ashes, its inhabitants fled.

Yet on and still on, with Morgan ahead,

They pressed down the road that to Panama led.

Nine days through the forest unbroken they tramped,

And at last on a mount near the city encaTuped.

Before them the ocean for leagues away rolled:

Below them the islands lay bathed in the gold

Of the sun that, just setting, looked mournfully down

On the last day of life of the ill-fated town;

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While ftronnd them the plains with grroves of bright trees 8helt««d eftttle and fountains their wants to appease. The famed "golden cup** lay fiUwl at their hand, And to drain it at sunrise tlie buccaneers planned. "Oh ho, for the morrow ! " quoth Morgan the bold.

The dawn's faint purple had scarce 'gan to light

The peak of Ancon. erst hid in the night,

When the blare of the trumpet and l>eat of the drum

Made known that the day of the struggle had come.

In the eamp of the pirates "To arms ! " is the cry;

"Press forward, my hearties, our treasure is nigh !

Avoid the main road~-there are ambuscades there -

Push on through the forest, your firearms prepare ! ^

Now out on the hill, still called the "Advance,**

The buccaneers over their enemy glance.

B<'fore them they see in the full light of day

The Spaniards drawn up in battle array.

Two squadrons of horse, four thousand of line.

With bullocks and peons their forces combine.

And then, were it safer for them to retreat.

Would Morgan have ord ered the signal to beat?

Too late it is now - it is triumph or die !

Though desperate to battle, 'twere folly to fly !

Tis useless to falter ! On, onward my men !

We have won against odds, we shall win once again !

And "On!** cry the Spaniards, shouting " Vim el licy /"

Our numbers are greater ! Ours, ours is the day !

Our bullocks will rout them ! Huzza for old Spain !

The gore of the thi<»ves shall enrich the plain ! *"

Alas, for the hopes so sadly mispla ced.

For never before such a foe had they faced !

No Indians now, but trained men of might,

^Vho had learned in stern schools to die and to fight.

Two hours they fought 'neath the tropical sun.

Then threw down their muskets and - Morgan had won !

The verdant savanna like a great river runs With the blood of six thousands of Panama's sons ! "Oh, ho 'tis the day, and the tale is soon told !

"Fire, pillage and slaughter ! " the order goes round Till palace and cottage are burned to the ground; Till cathedral and warehouse no treasures contain. And in the whole city no gold doth remain; Till mother and daughter are captured and chained With father and brother, or ransom obtained. Monasteries and hospitals - down with them all ! Leave not a stone standing on yon city wall !

O demon insensate ! O offspring of hell !

What pen may thine awfid enormities tell !

How picture the cruelties, useless and vain.

Upon the march back through the forest again !

Old men tottering feebly 'neath Time's hoary crown,

Frail women in chains and with burdens borne down.

Fresh youth and grown man and the child but just born,

Scourged pitilessly on with the lash and the thorn.

While sobs, lamentations and shrieks of despair

Unceasingly freighted the soft summer air !

The ink turns to tears and corrodes the sad pen

O'er the torture at Cruces repeated again.

There, under the shade of the broad mango trees - -

'Mid anguish that nothing may ever appease - -

Are parents and children and husbands and wives.

Condemned without mercy to horrible lives !

Then back down the Chagres the buccaneers hie To where ships near the castle awaiting them lie; And embarked with his slaves, his treasure and gold, Onee again for Port Royal sails Morgan the bold!

11^ ntot and Guide

When the news of the destruction of Old Pnnnmii reached the eai*s of the Conde de Leinos, then Viceroy of Peru, he was so deeply chaj^rined over the affair, that he immediately took steps resulting in the removal of the de- feated governor, Don .Fuan Perez de Guzman. At the same time he i*epn»sented to the Queen Regent of Spain, Mana Anne of Austria, the necessity of issuing a decree provi- ding for tlie rchuilding of the city on a new site.

Between tlie Imrning of the old city and the build- ing of the new, nearly two years elapsed. During this time the survivore had erected temporary homes on and around the old site, which were thrice visited and destroyed by conflagrations before the removal to the new town took

Up to the year 1905, the exact date of the founda- tion of the present city had been lost sight of, all the Span- ish histories being at fault on this important point. On March 28, 1005, the President of the Municipjil Council of Panama, Giro Ij. Urriola, acting under official instruc- tions of that body, addressed letters to the Director of the Archives of Simancas; to the Director of the Archives of tlie Indias at Seville, and to the Director of the National Library at Madrid requesting information as to the exact date the new city was commenced. After an exchange of communications covering some months, the certified copies of two documents were submitted by the Director of the Archives of the Indias, Pedro Torres Lanzas, together with plans of the old and new cities. The documents were:

1. Cedula providing for the fortifications of the new city, dated

2. letter treating of the change of the city, and outlining same, accompanied by the acts of the (Council upon said change and delineation , and allotting sites for public buildings.

The Founding of New Panama. \ {"^

The signing by the Spanish Queen of the decree auth- orizing the changing of the site of Panama on October 81, 1672, has been adopted and is now observed as the anniversary of the founding of the new city, although the document rehiting to the plan and lines of the town shows that the inauguration ceremonies in connection with the estabhshment of the new site were actually held on the

The important task of supervising the building and fortifying of the new town was confided to Don Anto- nio Fernandez de Cordoba, a Spanish cavalier of high rank who reached the Isthmus in 1672, with the title of Go- vernor of the Province of Tierra Firme, and President of the Real Audiencia. Cordoba only saw the work of recon- struction commence, his death occurring the year following his arrival.

The Queen's cedula or decree on the fortifications of the new city refers to the site of Ancon, as "Lancon", evidently an error or misprint, as the correct sjielling ap- pears in documents of a little later period.

In this cedula is set forth the necessity of first pro- viding the city with adequate defenses, making them as strong as possible, but not to start the general work until the plans had been submitted to the Crown for consideration and approval.

As to the question of means, the Queen wrote, "Ad- vise the Viceroy of Peru, with an estimate of the cost, that he may with this notice get the means in conformity with this order". Continuing the document reads, "I charge you (Cordoba) with much care that I have sent you to this place to apply the means furnished for this work, with- out diverting it to other things. To this end form in the city a Council, in which you will be present, with two judges, a treasurer, two of the oldest secular representatives, and the attorney general of the city who with the help of the officials of the Royal Treasury, will allow the expense and employ the rents remitted you by the Viceroy of Peru,

with who4n you will commun cale very frequently on these points I liopc that } our experience, prudence, act- ivity and faithfulness, which you have always shown, will conduce to the service of the king, my son, and to these Bubiect8,and that you work in everything as it ought to be doue".

The Founding of New Panama.

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In a decree drawn np by the attorney general of opposition had developed on the part of those who had already commenced to rebuild their ruined homes at Old Panama, to the change to the iiewsiteat Ancon. He wrote rcfiuesting that someone be sent to the Isthmus without delay with plenary powers to execute the change, and to compel the inhabitants of Old Panama and vicinity, "without ex- ception", to move to tl e new site.

He suggested as an inducement to persons of stand- ing an exenii)tion from taxes, upon their agreement to commence building their houses and offices on the new site within two months from the date of this decree, and to occupy them within the year.

He urged forced compliance as to removal in order as the document reads, "That the point which is now pop- ulated (Old Panama) may be razed to the ground on ac- count of the risk of enenn'es coming in the meantime and taking possession, thereby putting a stop to commercial traffic. This demolition will not only help in the new foundations, but will furnish convenient material with which to build the new houses, and at the same time will put a stop to all points of doubt that might delay the execu- tion of the decree".

The decree also prohibited the use of lamps, or rath- er censers, as they were then knoAvn, in the houses at

raid. It further provided that just rents sliould ])e paid u}» to the time of the change, and that the people could not be deprived of tJieir homes until four inontlis succeeding the announcement of tlie decide. The original of this rare document l)ears the signature of Cordoba, the attorney general. Don Luis de Ix>ssada QuiHones, Don Andres Mar- tinez de Amileto, and the Secretary, Don Diego Juan A-

The signatures were attested by Augustin de l^rrutia, with his rubica. and hia signature and identity attested in turn by tliree othei-s, each with his rubica.

The ceremonies in connection with the inauguration participated in by Governor Cordoba, and all the notables, civil, military and secular. AVith the assistance of the mil- itary engineer, the (xovernor indicated the lines on which the principal plaza should be laid out, the location of the Cathedral, and the cemetery alongside. The cemetery was abandoned many years ago, but tlie old Cathedral still rears its twin towei-s skyward, and is as solid an editice : today as when it was first built In connection witli the ' cemetery, it might be interesting to Jiote that while the water works force was excavating on Sosa Street in 1905, they ran across and unearthed a great many bones of the early settlei*s.

The inaugural cei*emonies were conducted with all the pomp and ritual common to the Catholic Church at that time. The Bishop and his assistiints pronounced a blessing on the Cathedral and cemetery site, and put one large and two small, crosses in the center of tlie plaza. The Governor likewise indicated the site for the convent, now occupied by the store of D. Cardoze and the government telegraph office on Avenue B. Capt Juan Hidalgo Balcera, Mayordomo of the convent, took occasion to call attention to the fact there was a quantity of building tim-

The Founding of New Panama. 1 2 1

ber already available near the site, and that furthermore a ship had just entered the bay with a load of building ma- terials, urging that it would be a good thing to commence work on the convent first, so tliat this constituted the first building of consequence to be erected in the new city.

The Queen's injunction to build the new city's forti- fications strong and well were heeded as evidenced by the huge wall of masonry that today extends around a large section of the shore front of the city. These walls com- menced in Cordoba's time were not completed until many years afterward under the government of Alonso ]VIercado de Yillacorta. The fortifications are estimated to have cost upwards of ten million dollars in money, principally furnished from Peru. This does not take into account the forced labor employed in their construction. The story has been handed down how a sovereign of Spain was seen standing at a window of his palace one day looking toward the west with a disturbed expression on his fea- tures. A courtier made bold to inquire what he was look- ing at. "I am looking", replied the King, his face relax- ing into a grim smile, "for those costly walls of Panama. They ought to be visible even from here".

The Darien region was the scene of the first attempt by Europeans, other than subjects of Spain, to obtain a commercial foothold on the Spanish Main. For some time prior to 1695, William Patterson, one of the founders of the Bank of England, had been nourishing a project of commercial expansion of considerable magnitude. It was his idea to establish colonies in various parts of the

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Orient, as well as the Occident, to build np a trade be- tween these points and liis country, Scotland. I'nder royal charter, a company was fonned, and in the year 1698 five vessels with more than a thousand Scottish emigrants on board set sail for the Isthmus. From returning buc- caneers Patt**rson learned what a key to the trade of the South Sea the Isthmus really was, and induced him to send his first colony to tliat point.

The colonists landed at a place on the north coast of Darien, known to day as Puerto Escoces. Here on a small bay which they named Caledoniii, the immigrants founded the settlement of New Edinburgh, located about 75 miles to the norili-west from Cape Tiburon on the Gulf of Ura))d. They built some fortifications, establish- ing two batteries of 52 cannons each. Only a few months elapsed however, before the effect of the tropical climate and its fevers became apparent on the hardy men of the north, and before the end of the first year arrived only a remnant of the original colony remained. In the mean- time other emigrants had been sent out from Scotland, but they fared even worse than the first comoi-s. About this time the Spaniards learned of the full scope of Pat- tei-son's designs toward the South Sea trade, and de- termined to frustrate it. An expedition was sent against the colony at New Edinburgh and met with but little re-

Patterson did not give up his plan without a further ef- fort, and endeavored to plant another colony, this time on the Pacific Ocean and away from Panama, hut acting under orders fi-om Spain, Lieut General D. Juan Diaz Pimiento, Captiiin-General of the province, took the necess- ary 8te;>s to prevent it

The period from 1710 to 1790 was principally marked by frequent battles between the Spaniards and the In- dian tribes of tlie Darien. Early in the centuryi Catholic missionaries from Spain founded several places in this re- gion, but in 1719 the savages rose and destroyed them all. In 1740, Lieut General D. Dionisio Martinez de la Ye- ga entered into a treaty of peace with the Indians, and soon after the Viceroy of Santa Fe, Don Sebastian de Es- lava, and the Governor of Panama, acting in conjunction sent out four .Jesuit priests, two to the north, and two to the south, in the Darien region, and these founded Yavi- za, a town located on the (.'hucunaque River, the largest affluent of the Tuira, or Tuyra, the principal river in the Darien emptying into the Pacific. Yaviza to-day is an outpost on the forbidden frontier of the Darien fndians. To this point travelers can go with safety, but a further journey inland would be exceedingly risky. Although Ya- viza is located fifty miles or so from the coast, tide water does not end for several miles past the town.

Notwithstanding the efforts of the Jesuit priests to obtain a foothold in this region, it was not long after before the Indians planned an uprising and the missionaries had

on the Sabana, Chucunaque and Tuira Rivers; also on the coast of the Gulf of San Miguel, but six years later upon conclusion of another treaty with the Indian chiefs, these were abandoned. Since then the Indian tribes of that region have been more or less independent, the Gov- erinnent of Colombia having exercised only a nominal rule over them. The Republic of Panama to date has also been content to leave them to their own devices. On one occasion the Colombian Government sent a force of 500 men against them, but this expedition was defeated.

The only other incident in Isthmian history during the eighteenth century worth relating, was the landin<g^ of a band of desperadoes and cutthroats on the Caribbean coast, near Porto Bello, made up of the scum of several nations. These at once commenced assaulting and robbing wherever possible, and finally crossed the Isthmus to the Pacific, where they were hunted down and scattered. Some were taken to Cartagena and executed; others died at the hands of the Indians, and still othei*s sought refuge in the caves of San Bias, where they subsisted by fishing. A few of these later started plantations, but they were a restless lot ever keen for desperate deeds, and they soon got into trouble with the Indians who rose against them in 1758, and killed ninety of them. The rest left the country immediately after.

The provinces of Panama and V'eraguas that com- posed the Isthmus from 1719 to ]821, and which formed a part of the Yirreinate of Santa Fe, were among the last to be emancipated from the power of Spain, despite

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the fact that the decisive battle of Boyaca, which made an end forever to Spanish dominion in Colombia, had been fought and won by Simon Bolivar over two yeai-s before, namely. August 7, 1819. This was due to the large armed force maintained by Spain on the Isthmus. The forts of San liorenzo and Porto Bello were well garrisoned, >vhile the city of Panama was at all times kept in a state of perfect defence.

To the little town of Los Santos, capital of the province bearing the same name, belongs the honor of making the first open manifestation for libert3\ and this wa.s brought about in the following way: In 1810, ji small club was formed in Panama, consisting of influential citi- zens, for the puipose of carrying on a secret revolutionary propaganda. Agents were sent to the interior towns to organize otlier societies for the fomenting of a revolution- ary sentiment among the population. The little society at Los Santos became so enthusiastic that it boiled over, and

Independence from Spain, 1821. 12^

one day the members turned out en masse and made a public demonstration in favor of freedom.

Early in 1821, Gen. Juan de la Cruz Murgeon ar- rived at Panama, having been appointed by the Spanish Government to the post of Captain-General and President of Quito. Ho was further promised the post of Viceroy of Santa Fe, if he could recover control of two-thirds of the Virreinate. This he very soon saw was impossible, and on October 22nd of the same year embarked for Quito to exercise his title of President, leaving in com- mand of the provinces on the Isthmus, Lieut-Col. Jose de Fabrega, whom he then promoted to the grade of Colonel.

Col. Fabrega was Isthmian born, and when he saw that he was to be the arbiter of the fate of the Isthmus, he resolved to throw in his lot with his liberty-aspiring countrymen. Thereupon, a general meeting of all the civic corporations, military and church organizations in Panama was called, and on November 28, 1821, before a large and enthusiastic crowd, the independence of the Isthmus from Spanish mis-rule became an accomplished fact. Fabrega himself, was an interested spectiitor of this

Some of the Spanish troops still remaining loyal to the Crown, debated amongst themselves their future course of procedure, but realizing the helplessness of their posi- tion, without a commander, with enemies on every hand, and without hope of reinforcements, they decided prudence the better part of valor, and laid down their arms. Thus was independence gained Avithout the shedding of a drop of blood. Isthmian history came near to repeating itself eighty-two years later when the independence of the Re- public of Panama was attained, with the loss of but one life, that of a Chinaman.

The same year that the Isthmus threw off the yoke of Spain, Simon Bolivar termed " The Liberator" sent over a force under Gen. Montilla from Cartagena to assist the local patriots, but upon their arrival found that the

Isthmian people had already secured thoir indcpetulence through favoring circumst^mces.

The discovery of gold in California, and the lack of a safe and rapid transcontinenUil means of getting to the desired goal, induced many tliousands of treasure hunters to seek the Isthmian transit During the seven or eight years succeeding the first find of gold on Sutter's Creek, it ti-ansported across the Isthmus on pack-mule trains. By 1853 the rush was on in earnest, and according to official figures the output of gold in California for that yearriached

The sudden development of the pack-mule train business on the Isthmus by reason of the discovery, attracted to the country a large number of Chileans, Peruvians, In- dians and mixed breeds, many of whom came not to engage in an honest business, but to i)lunder, rol) and murder. A rich field was at once opened to them on account of the demand for pack-mule trains, a business in which the majority of them were expert. The Panama newspapers of those days are filled with stirring accounts of assault and i-obbery, and many pathetic incidents of people who had reached Panama successful and happy only to be robbed and frequently murdered in making the transit to the other side.

Often ships would anive from California with from one to two millions of dust and bullion on board, and with half as much again probably secreted about the person, or

in the baggage of passengers who trusted nobody but themselvesj not even the ship's strong box. On one occa- sion several boxes of gold arrived at New York, apparently intact, but when opened it was discovered that from forty to fifty per cent, had been stolen. The rifling was accom- plished by the aid of a certain shaped boring apparatus that would bring out as much as desired of the contents of the boxes, and fill in again with sand, until the original weight was reached. The holes in the boxes were then plugged and sealed so neatly that they could not be de- tected, except upon close examination.

As a usual thing however, this method was too laborious, and bands of armed men made open attacks on pack trains, assisted by confederates acting as guards, or drivers. In January, 1851, the S. S. Northerner ar- rived from 8au Francisco Avith .1^2,600,000 in gold dust and treasure on board, and carrying 500 passengers. Many of the latter had their newly gained wealth concealed in their baggage. Immediately after the steamer's arrival, preparations began for the pack across. The start was made, and at a i)lace called Cardenas, about one day's journey from Panama by mule back, the passengers were attacked in broad daylight by a large body of armed men. In the fight that followed some few of the passengers succeeded in withdrawing with their pack trains unobserved, but the robbers managed to capture two mule loads of treasure, amounting to about §120,000.

During the fight, the leader of the band, a Chilean, was shot and killed. Tbe affair had hardly terminated when reinforcements arrived to the aid of the passengers. The robbers thereupon fled into the woods, but were promptly pursued. Some were killed, others taken prison- ers, while several boxes of gold were recovered in the nick of time, the thieves being come upon just as they were about to bury the treasure in the ground.

One of the pathetic incidents of the period was the case of seven men returning from California, who started

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across the Isthmus in company, to take ship on the other side. They were not heard of again until one day a man came across some hodies half-devoured by the buzzards. An investigation was started, and it was conclusively proven that the seven men had been waylaid and murdered. The men were artisans on their way home, and had with them a chest of tools. This chest from its weight and appear- ance led one of the numerous gangs of robbers to believe that it contained treasure. They offered themselves as pack-train men, were accepted, and at a certain point on the road the travelers were set upon and killed. Among the effects of the dead men were found a master mason's apron, and other emblems of the order, which increased the desire to run the guilty parties to earth. This was shoi-tly accomplished. The pack-train men were arrested, confronted with the evidence, and confessed. Subsequently they were all taken to Panama and shot.

These and similar occurrences aroused the authorities to take some decisive action toward putting down the out-

ragM. All that were caught in robberies were given short shrift Usually, if fouiul fiuilty, they were immediately shot. Then too, the returning Califomians, l)eing previously ad- Tised of the insecurity of the tninsit, provided themselves against these emergencies, as the rohl)er hands found out to their cost. In one case, a pack-train carrying British bullion from South America was attacked on the trail. Tlie party put up so stiff a defense that several of the thieves were killed, and the remainder put to rout.

The record of those times go to show that many a returning treasure seeker never reached home and loved ones again, hut left his liones to 4)leach on the Ciiices ti-ail. A couple of yeai*s ago, a native living near the trail ran across a quai\tity of coins, discoloi-etl with age. He bi-ought them into Panama and showed them at a local hank. Many of the coins wei*e gold, and all bore dates of the period when tJie Cruces trail was the main traveled i*oad of the gold huntiMs of California. They had evidently formed a part of some i*obl)er's hoard.

Lola Momez "of Paris anfl Panaia."

Among the many thousands of pei-sons that passed over the Isthmus from all j)arts of the world in the mad rush for California, none attracted greater attention on the streets of Panama than I>oIa Montez, in the zenith of her world-wide fame, and owninpf to the distinction of being the most wonderful dancer of her day.

The fair Lola, known in private life as the Countess fjandsfield, left Paris in December, 1851, on an American tour. On the eve of her depai-ture the Paris press said of her:

"Lola Montez is bidding us farewell, and leaves us for America. Whoever ye be, young or old, rich or j>oor, it is im- possible for you not to have heard of Mme. Comtesse Landsfield, the buttertiy known as Lola Montez. The laurels won by Fannie Elssler and Jenny Lind has driven sleep from her eyes. She too wishes to conquer. Farewell then, Mme. Comtesse, may America be propitious to you. If a handful of adventurers under Cortez effected the conquest of Mexico, why should not Lola Montez triumph over the New World. "

The writers in the Paris press in acknowledging her pecuh'ar and fascinating beauty, said that dancing was not an art with her, but natural, like the singing of a bird.

In touring the United States, Loa caught the gold fever, and arrived on the Isthoius on her way to California in May, 1853. She appeared on the streets of Panama in men's clothes, and armed with a riding whip, presented a picturesque and striking figure. On one occasion, a young man of the town had the temerity to pull the tail of her coat. She turned upon him in terrible anger, and raising her whip struck the offender a sharp blow in the face which left its mark for many a day.

Love Me, Love My Dog.

While at Gorgona on her way across the Isthmus, she ordered the hotel keeper to fit up a cot in the room she had engaged for the night, for her dog, which was her inseparable companion. The host remonstrated stating that all of his cots were occupied and that many of his guests had to content themselves with sleeping on the floor. "I think Madame," he said, - that your dog can sleep very well for one night on the floor." "Sir," replied the Countess, removing a Havana iVom her pretty lips, "I do not care where or ho^v your L^-'iests sleep, but I w^ould have you to know that my dog lias slept in palaces. Get me the cot immediately and hpv no more about it." The now frightened hotel keeper obeyed, and the next morning

chai-getl five doIlai*s in tlio bill for the d(>g*s bod. To this the (Countess ohjectcHl, and on the laiidloixl insisting that the bill should be paid, she pnlled out her pistol, and threatened to settle not only tiie bill., but the hotel keeiKT as well, for extortion. There was no further argument.

A represcutiUive of the -^Panama Star'' interviewed Uie artiste on May t>. l«r)3, at the Cocoa Grove Hotel and wrote an account of it as follows:

"luttead of raeetiu^ a giaiit«88 in Rppearauce, and u i»er8on of mASealiiic nmnuerfi ah whs expected, we were most a{<r©eably aurprised when on presentation to the CouuteHs, to fin«l her a lady of onlinary stature, and of rather delicate frame, )K>Kse8sinf; the most regrular and haudKonu' features, with a jmir of brilliant and expressive eyes, and witlial au exceedingly winning address. We were still more surprise<i when on ext^^nding her hand, to find it so diminutive.*'

"During an hour's conversation with the Countess, we could observe no jweuliarity al>out her, l>eyond what "we would desire to see in any well educated woman, possessing a degree of as- surance peculiar to j»eople who have traveled much, thus en- abling her to give expression to her thoughts without any of that simpering mock modesty which makes many people appear

"It wa« not until after dark, and as we were al>out to take our leave, that we had a fair opportunity to judge of the courageous daring of this remarkable woman. One of the guests of the hotel who had been taking a walk about the grounds was attacked and an attempt made to shoot him. Lola Montez immediately went to wher« it was going on and rendered what aid possible, returning with the guest to the house. In all the excitement, there was no desire to faint, or expression of fear ou her part. She cross-questione<l the guest thoroughly, but the affair re- mained a mystery. **

The stay of Ix>la Montez on the Isthmus was not of long, duration, but she expressed great pleasure over lier visit, and it was many a day before the memory of her and her queer attire was forgotten.

Oceans Linked by Steel Ribbons, 1855.

The possibilities incident to the construction of a raihoad across the Isthmus early attracted the attention of capitahsts and others. The first move in this direction was made in 1835 when, pursuant to a resolution offered in the United States Senate by Henry Clay, President Andrew Jackson appointed Charles Biddle a commissioner to visit the different routes on the continent of America best adapttd for interoceanic communication, and to re- port thereon with reference to their value to the com- mercial interests of the United States. Mr. Biddle came to the Isthmus and accompanied by Don Jose Obaldia at that time a member of the Colombian Congress, la'ter visited Bogota where, after repeated delays, he secured from the government a decree giving him the right to build a railroad across the Isthmus. He returned to the United States in 1837, but died before he was able to make a report.

In 1847, a French syndicate headed by Mateo Kline obtained an option on the proposed undertaking from the Government of New Granada which, however, was permitted to lapse the following year. The rush of the goldseekers

Santiago Rozo

Diploma of the Kational ITniversity of Bogota, Colombia.

Offers his Professional Servi- ces to the Public

Office: Xo. 36. Fifth Street, Fanaroa.

Santiago Rozo

Con Diploma de la TJniversidad Kacio. nal de Bogot&, Colombia.

Ofrece sus Servlcios Profeslo-

to California in '40 f^nd the lack of a safe and rapid means of transit across the Istlinnis, about which much complaint was made at the time, induced a group of American capitahsts to intei-est tliemselves in the project In this year a company was formed by William H. As- pinwalK John li. Stephens and Henry Chauncy of New York City under the name of the Panama Raihoad Com- pany. This company secured a concession from the Re- public of New (iran.ida giving it tlie exclusive privilege of constnicting a railroacl on the Isthmus in wliich w^as in- corpomted a provision that no negotiations looking to the building and operation of a ship canal could he concluded witJiout the consent of the railroad. The concession was made for a period of forty-nine yeai-s dating from the completion of the road. The time given for completion was six years fi-om the date of signing the contract In 1867 when the name of the Republic of New Granada was changed to that of Colombia the concession was ex- tended for a period of ninety-nine years, thus making the entire term of the grant 118 years from the date of com- pletion. At the expiration of this time, the concession pro- vided that the railroad and appurtenances should be turned over to the Colombian (jovernment in fee simple, with no rights for ceding or selliiii^ tq any foreign govern-.

When the French canal company sought from the Colombian Government a concession to construct a canal : across the Istliraus^ it found that the consent of the j Panama Railroad was necessary, and after some negotia- j tions concluded to buy the railroad, and in that way to [ secure the advantage of Its concession, rather tliaii to un- j dertake to purchase its consent which would have to be ' approved by the Colombian authorities, After repeated ; effoils they tinally, in August LS81, secured possession of { sixty-eight seventieths of the stock, paying S'ioO per share, * and in addition permitted the American stockholders to strip tlie company of all the cash atxl aocumulated- sur-^

plus, 80 that the actual amount received by the American sharcholtiers was ahout $291 per shitre for stock the com- mercial value of which at tliat time was only a little ahovo par. When the I'nited States bought the property of the French canal company, among its nsseta were the sixty- eipht seventieths of the stock of tlie Panama Railroad.

Road Pays $260,000 Indemnity Yearly.

The railroad has been bonded for various amounts since 1851. In 1897 however, all bonds were retired and year gold bonds of §1,000 each was made. Of these treasury of the company. At the time tlie property waK acxjuired by the United States (rovernment 1,002 of the outstanding bonds had been redeemed.

Under the terms of tlie concession the railroad was compelled to pay to the Colombian Government an annual indemnity of §250,000. The railroad therefore, has not only been required to pay from its earnings interest on its bonded indebtedness, and its operating expenses, but also the animal indemnity of more than §5,000 per mile. In 1880 the railroad company at the request of the Colom- bian Government convt»rted this indemnity into bonds for a period of twenty-seven and one-half years. These bonds were aftei wards sold by the Colombian Government to private capitalists, so that this indemnity is now l>eing, and will continue to be until 1908, paid to the pur- chasers of these bonds. After that or in 191H as the treaty under which the canal is being constructed stipulates, that amount will be paid by the United States Govern- ment to the Republic of Panama.

In preparing for the work, the company engaged tlie services of two eminent American engineers, George H. Totten and John C. Trautwine, lx)th of whom had l)een previously employed on important engineering undertakings

Road Pays ^250^000 Indemnity Yearly. I3Q

both at home and abroad. One of these was the con- struction of a canal from Cartagena to the Magdalena River in Colombia by which they acquired some knowledge of the Spanish language, and an insight into the manner of working the native laborers.

Active work on the road began in the fall of 1849. The first three months were devoted to establishing a depot at Gorgoua for material and supplies, it having been the original intention to build the section of the road from Gorgona to Panama fii-st. This plan necessitated the transfer of all material from ocean steamers to smaller crafts and the voyaging of the latter around Point Toro to the mouth of the Chagres and up this stream to Gor- gona. So many difficulties at once developed to this method that it was shortly abandoned and Aspinwall (1) made the northern terminus of the line.

One Way of Getting a Job.

The laborers employed in the construction of the road came from every part of the world. There were natives, East Indians, West Indians, Chinese, Europeans and Americans, as motley a crowd as ever assembled under the sun. The trial given the Chinese proved a dismal failure.

One of the leading spirits of 'the time was James L. Baldwin, a civil engineer to whom, by common consent, the early completion of the road was largely due. Baldwin was a good judge of men, and he knew as if by intuition just what he could do with the worse than Falstaffian mob with which he was surrounded. His tact was seconded by an off-hand manner of utter fearlessness and personal daring.

One day he had a difficulty at Frijoles with an im- mense Irishman whom he had previously placed in charge

(1). Former name of Colon. Named after W. H. Aspinwall, one of the founders of the P. R. R.

Pilot and Gnitle,

Commercial Sign fainting.

of tliat station in which lajignage fro(|uontly and j)ainljilly fi-ec was used. The snhordinate was well skilled in the art of self-defence and was always ready to come to the scratch. The irate cliief though headstrong had reached tlie years of discretion, and the matter passed up for th(^ time heing.

Baldwin went to Colon the mornint^ following to in- spect a detachment (f em[)loyes newly arrived. His (piick eye picked out a man of a thick-set stature, dark com- plexion and hull-dog look, and calling lii:n hefore him this dialogue ensued: -

Can you read and write?

Do you want a good ea.sy joh with good pay?

Have you ever been in a prize fight?

One, or two.

Were you whipi)ed?

Not much.

Do you think there is any one in these parts that can do it?

Ijet them try it.

^'Then," Baldwin said, 'M want yon to go to Frijoles Station, get in a row with the track master, give liim a rough heating and kick liim out. You can then have his joh." The offer was at once accepted.

On the following morning the new arrival found himself at Frijoles, and met tlie hy-no-means courteous and reiined charge d'affaiies. The latter was ready to pick a quarrel with the newcomer, and soon hoth got warm and agreed to fight it out in accordance Avith the rules of the ring. Tiiey staked off the ring, and dispensing with the seconds went at it. After several rounds in which both showed signs of heavy punishment, the stranger gained the victory and expelled his antagonist from the p!ace.

This occurrence is perfectly true and illusti-ates some of the rongh and ready events of those tinges on the Panama R;\ilroad As an afterword we might add that the hero of this affair was Tom Sharp who later fought his way to success in the railroad world.

From start to finish the company Avas beset with labor troubles. The laborers that were bi ought to the Isthmus under contract would melt away in the stream of people bound for the California gold-fields. In February 1851, the work was brought to a stop by a wholesale desertion of these men, but Avith the assistance of the Colombian authorities a large number were apprehended aiid kept in jail until they signified their readiness to return to work. Another factor in the labor question Avas the Isthmian fevers Avhich at times made severe inroads on the men and gave rise to the report that '-The Panama Railroad cost a man for every tie."

Why are all that live outside the city like orphans ? Because they are Avithout Pa-nor-ma.

The Black Swamp.

Probably tbe birgest obstacle met with in the con- struction work of the road was the sti-etch tlu*ough the swamps l)otwcen Colon and Ciatun, and particularly over the famous ^Black Swamp". This swamp is located l)etween Lion Hill and Ahorcit I^agaito and has l)een giving trouble at intervals ever since the ofjening of the ix>ad. The constnictoiN dumped thousands of tons of rock^ wood and other material into the swamp befoi-e a foundation was se- cured firm enough to Ikj used for the passage of trains. During the i>eriod of the French canal companies train service was fitH]uently interrupted at this point and on each occasion tons of machinery and scrap were dumped into the place. The IsUimian Canal Commission has twice experienced trouble during the past year from the '*lx)ttom falling out" in this locality. The last occurrence waS in September. 1907, when sixty feet of track sank out of sight soon after a passenger train had passed. The Com- mission has adopted the method of driving piles as a sup- jX)rt to the track and where this has been done no further ti-ouble has resulted. It is the intention however, to build a "gauntlet" track around the spot to avoid a i-ecun-ence of this nature.

First Train Into Panama.

The company had trains ninning from Aspinwall to Oatun in 1H52, and to Barbacoas bridge in ISo.'J. On January 28, 1855 the fii-st train reached Panama and the Star d' Herald two days later writes of the event as fol-

"The whistle of the railroad engine has at length woke up the slumbering echoes of Panama, away through tin; hills and dales, over the quiet bay and amidst the ruins of the ancient city, the first wild shriek has gone foilh proclaiming the advance of commerce and civilization on the Pacific coast of South America. The great coiniccting

First Tram Into Panama. 1 4 3

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Prescriptions Carefully Prepared by Skilled

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Erjglish, French, ©errgar) and Spaniel] Spoken,

link of the Atlantic and Pacific is completed, the Pana- ma Railroad is finished, and the first train has made its appearance amongst us, opening up a new era of prosper- ity for the people of the Isthmus of Panama".

'*0n Sunday afternoon about half past three o'clock thousands of people gathered along the line to witness for the first time the appearance of the iron horse as it rattled over the tracks to the station, and many were the expressions of surprise and wonder at its appearance, and the facility with which the wild creature was managed. Mules and pack saddles are now forever supplanted by the steam engine, and the mud of the Cruces trail is ex- changed for a comfortable seat in a railroad coach. The twenty -five cents per pound charged for transporting freight across the Isthmus is now reduced to a mere nominal cost, and the long tedious journey over the Isthmus has been transformed into a pleasure trip of a couple of

First Train Into Panama. l-^-S

'-'What will follow the opening of the railroad it is hard to foretell, but we can sec great things looming up in the distance for Panama. Doubtless there are those that will suffer a temporary loss in their business by the open- ing of the railroad, but this must be expected as a natu- ral consequence and will be of short duration. Far away to the confines of the Pacific the opem'ng of the Panama Railroad will be hailed with delight. From north to south; from east to west of this mighty ocean will its beneficent influences be felt. From Cape Horn to Oregon, from Kamschatka to Japan, the Panama Railroad will tend to- arJ commercial development. Australia and all the isles of the sea are brought by it into immediate contact with the old world, and the colonies will now look upon Panama as a bridge over which the traffic Avith their mother country must pass".

'^But what British money and French ingenuity could not accomplish in upwards of a quarter of a centur}^, Yankee enterprise has undertaken and carried through in five years, and has given to the world an enduring monu- ment of what a few determined spirits of the United States

"The names of AVilliam H. Aspinwall and his associ- ates who headed this great scheme of Col. Totten, and those who with him carried out the work, are worthy to be immortalized, and it is to be hoped that such men may long be spared to witness the benefits which they have conferred on the Avorld by their indefatigable zest and unflinching determination in building the Panama Rail-

In November, 1866 the Legislative Assembly of Pa- nama adopted a resolutio'n honoring the builders of the railroad, and authorized the placing of a portrait of each in the reception room of the government palace in Pana- ma, the expense thereof to be paid out of the public treas-

\^Q root and Guide,

With the oi>ening of the road, a heavy traffic soon for pjissengcr and fivight hauls, made large profits for tlie stoi-k holders. After a time these excessive charges became the subject of complaintii which came to the notice of the Colombian Government A head tax on each passenger carried over the ix)ad was thereupon ordered, and in addition a large numl)er of government employes, politicians and influential citizens were instructed to l>e placed on the free list. This resulted in an exchange of uotes l>etween the American Minister resident at Bogota, and the Colombian Government, and a compromise was finally effected by which the head tax was to be removed upon the railroad company inaugurating a lower i)assenger tariff. The steamship combinations constituting in effect a monopoly were not changed until after the purchase of the road by the United States Goverinnent.

Panama Not What it Used To Be.

Thiit the railroad would benefit the Isthmus was not immediately apparent. Six months after the opening of traffic the Star cfc Herald prints the following article signed ''Traveler":