Canton directory, 1878

water remained unchanged.

In the Banda Sea three temperature soundings were obtained in September

* Extracted from the " Geographical Magazine " for March 1876.

In the last sounding, 2,800 fathoms, the minimum temperature of ST'.S was reached at the depth of 900 fathoms ; from thence to the bottom no alteration in the temperature of the water was detected.

In the Molucca Passage, which connects the Banda Sea with the Pacific Ocean, one temperature sounding of 1,200 fathoms was obtained in lat. to decrease regularly from the surface to the bottom, the minimum tempera- ture at the bottom being 35°.2.

Two soundings and temperatures were also obtained in January 1875 in the waters of the Philippine Islands, which separates the water of the Sulu Sea from that of the Pacific Ocean. One of these soundings (700 fathoms) is Panay, Tablas, Eomblon, Sibuyan, and Masbate ; and the other (375 fa- channel leading from Suriago Strait to the Sulu Sea. In the first sounding the minimum temperature of 51°. 5 was reached at the depth of 220 fathoms ; and in the second, the minimum temperature of 54° was reached at the depth

A temperature sounding of 2,550 fathoms was obtained, in February 1875, to the Celebes Sea and Molucca Passage. Here a minimum temperature of

An examination of the chart of these regions will show that the deep ba- sins of the China and Celebes Seas are alone in communication with the Pacific Ocean, and that consequently their temperature must be greatly de- pendent on the temperature of that part of the Pacific immediately adjacent to their openings into that ocean, for although both seas are in communica- tion indirectly with the Indian Ocean, they are cut off from the deep basin of that ocean by a large tract of shallow water, which, in the China Sea, ex- ceeds a breadth of 600 miles, and in the Celebes Sea is apparently about half the length of the Macassar Strait,

The Sulu Sea receives its waters from the China and Celebes Seas and Pacific Ocean ; its temperature depends, therefore, to a great extent on the temperatures of those seas.

The isotherm of 80° is found at a depth of 20 fathoms in the Sulu Sea; at 40 fathoms in the Celebes Sea ; and at 22 fathoms in the Banda Sea. In winter the China Sea has a large range of surface temperature from 64° at Hong Kong to 84° at Singapore, while the surface temperature of the other three seas varies only slightly all the year round. The specific gravity of the water in the Celebes, Sulu, and Banda Seas, was found to be less than in the Pacific Ocean : this may be accounted for by the excess of rainfall over evaporation in the area occupied by them.

In the older works which described the navigation of this Archipelago, the important element of the compass variation was disregarded, because the magnetic meridians so nearly coincide with the geographic meridians, that they are in most parts practically the same.

The isogonic lines, as shown on the illustrative chart, have a great pecu- liarity in the eastern seas. A line of no variation passes across the Coast of China and down through the Philippine Islands, while another, traversing the Bay of Bengal, passes southward of, and parallel to, the Island of Java. Between these lines the amount of easterly variation does not exceed 2° in the western, and 4° in the eastern parts of the area. The chart will best ex- plain this.

But there are other considerations respecting the compass, apart from the amount of its deviation from the true meridian. This is the amount of the different terrestrial and local magnetic forces which act on the compass needle. The lines of equal dip will give one of these elements, but the works specially devoted to the subject will show how important it is that the commander should be aware of the effects of those varying magnetic changes he will have to pass through in his long voyage to the field of the present work.

The epoch assumed in the chart is 1878, but there has been no appreciable change in the amount shown since magnetic observations have been con- ducted with accuracy, so that, for the present at least, it may be taken as correct for a long period, sufficiently so to draw attention to any unsuspected change in the magnetism of the ship, should the compass show a different amount to that given on the chart.

One general principle may be laid down for ships traversing the Indian Ar- chipehigo, and that is that during the S.W. monsoon, April to September, ships approaching China must go by the channels westward of Borneo, and in the opposite season they will take one of the passages to the eastward of Sunda and of Borneo ; the return voyage being also reversed in these par-

Therefore the passages through the Archipelago, which lie westward of the great island of Borneo, are termed generally the Western Passages, being the Straits of Sunda and Malacca; and those which pass eastward of Java and Borneo are called the Eastern Passages. To these may be added what was termed the Great Eastern Passage, or that to the southward and eastward of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, and which was first followed by Capt. Butler, in the Walpole, in the northern monsoon of 1794. Of this route Captain Maury says - This now is never or very seldom used, and should never be attempted except tor very special reasons.

An exception may be made to this absolute conclusion in favour of clipper or well handled ships, which sometimes have successfully attempted to beat up the China Sea against the N.E. monsoon. Of this more will be said here-

The Strait of Sunda is then the great portal of the Archipelago and China Sea, and is used in all seasons for the ports South of China, and frequently in all seasons as an entrance to the Eastern Passages. In the remarks as to the most advisable routes, which will follow, the passages from the Atlantic through the Strait of Sunda will be first considered.

In the volume on the navigation of the Indian Ocean, to which this is a continuation, full descriptions of the winds and currents of that ocean are given, so that by reference to that work an insight will be gained into those influences which affect a vessel's course in crossing it. On pages 158, 159, of that work, too, some brief remarks on the best track for approaching the

Strait of Snncla, or the passages eastward of it, are given : but as this topic has more especial reference to the scope of this book, some further observa- tions will be given.

Notwithstanding all the long discussions which have ensued since the vast extension of Oriental commerce, and the consequent accumulation of expe- rience, it is still a disputed point as to which is the best parallel for crossing the Indian ocean in sailing eastward round the Cape of Good Hope. On the one hand it is contended that by not going too far southward, better weather, and as much advantage otherwise, is gained. On the other hand, it is said that by keeping more approximatively to the great circle course, that is in higher latitudes, the " brave West winds " are more constant and of greater force, and that the distance to be sailed over is proportionately shortened. The following will illustrate this. The first remarks are taken from the Admiralty Sailing Directions, advocating a comparatively low parallel.

On leaving the cape, steer boldly to the southward, so as to run down the easting in lat. 39° or 40° S., where the wind blows almost constantly from some western point, and seldom with more strength than will admit of carry- ing sail ; whereas in a higher latitude the weather is frequently boisterous and stormy, with sudden changes of wind.

Some navigators prefer making their easting in a higher latitude than 39" or 40° S., whilst others steer a more direct course for Java Head than is here recommended ; but the above directions are those usually followed in H.M. ships, and are generally believed to be the best.

Now, respecting this choice of the parallel of about 39°, on which to run eastward, the distance to be traversed, or the approximate 75° of longitude from the offing of the cape to the point where you must bear oflF to the north- ward, is about 3,508 miles, a distance of nearly 600 miles would be saved if the latitude of 50° were taken.

On this point Captain Maury, who differs from the Admiralty, says as

A vessel bound through the Straits of Sunda, after crossing the equator, usually holds her wind, hauling up to the eastward as the S.E. trades of the Atlantic will allow, until she gets into the calm belt of Capricorn. Here, though she may not find long continued calms, she finds, nevertheless, those light winds which are always found to prevail in that sort of debateable ground which is always between any two systems of winds. This calm belt is between the S.E. trades on one side, and the variables, or " brave West winds," of the southern hemisphere, on the other.

Having cleared the trades, the present practice of mariners is to edge oflF a little to the East of South until they gain the parallel of 35° - 37° ; crossing this, they haul up due East, between the parallels of 37° and 39°, and run between them - the place of all others where the southern edge of the cy-

clones which traverse those parallels is most apt to be felt adversely - from the prime meridian to longitude 80° - 85° E. Now, if any one were seeking to find a route that passes through the regions most beset with light and baffling winds, this is the route to which I should point. The idea of sailing 5,000 miles along the borders of the calm belt of Capricorn, as many East Indiamen do, when there is sea room for the Great Circle route, with the " brave West winds " " following fast," is simply absurd.

Having run along this " debateable ground," and reached the meridian of 80° or 85° E., another mistake is committed by crossing this calm belt in the Indian Ocean again obliquely, which should never be done. These calm belts should alway?, whenever the land and dangers will admit, be crossed as directly on a meridian as the winds will allow ; for the sooner you cross them, the sooner you will get winds that will drive you along.

Such is the course of the present route, as the Dutch crossings abundantly show, and has been shortened for the Dutch, and may be shortened for the Americans and all others, ten days or more, by all vessels that will follow this course.

(1) After crossing the parallel of St. Roque, stand through the S.E. trades with a rap full and topmast studding sail, as if you were bound to Australia, not caring to make better than a S.S.E. course good, until you lose the trades, clear the calms of Capricorn, and get the " brave West winds " on the polar side of them. Vessels that do this will generally clear the calms, and get the " brave West winds " by the time they reach latitude 3.5° - 40°, finding themselves at this juncture somewhere between the meridians of 20° and 30° W. Now shape your course per Great Circle for the intersection of it may be deeiiied advisable, with the changing seasons, to enter the region of the S.E. trades of the Indian Ocean.

The following route, from 30° W. 35° S. to the intersection of this parallel, with 85° E., difi'ers so little from the Great Circle, that the difference becomes practically of no moment.

(2) Suppose you clear the calms of Capricorn in latitude 35°, longitude 30° W., now steer fur the meridian of 10° E., at its intersection with the parallel of 48° or 50° S. ; then run on between these parallels to longitude total distance to be run South of the parallel of 35° being 5,000 miles, the distance by the present route being 5,500 miles; so here is one day's sail gained by the " short cut," and certainly better winds.

(3) But suppose you have good luck in the South Atlantic, and can clear the calms of Capricorn in 20° W. instead of 30° W., but in the same latitude, your course then is to aim to strike the parallel of 50° in 20° E., and then run along it as before to 50° E., the distance South of 35° by this route being

But suppose the winds favour you still more, and you be in 10° W. before you reach the parallel of 35° ; in this case you should run between the shape your course from 10° W. as to get between these parallels, near the in other words, the distance from the usual place of crossing the parallel of St. Roque to Java Head is -

There is no part of the world where the master of a sailing vessel can turn his knowledge of the principles of Great Circle sailing to more advantage than he can when his course is East in that great expanse of ocean on the polar side of the calm belt by Capricorn. Here, when his course has easting in it, the famous westerly winds of that region will drive him ahead with the force and velocity of steam power.

Suppose, therefore, a navigator, bound for the Straits of Sunda, should, instead of heading up East on crossing 35° S., near 30° "W., after having crossed the equator near this meridian, proceed to 40° S. before heading up East, how much would his distance from the equator in the Atlantic to His gain in time to off-set this increase of distance would be a quicker run through the calms of Capricorn by reason of going straight across them, and the further advantage of strong winds along the more southern route.

The best course, under all circumstances, is as a rule, to do thus : - Run from the equator in the Atlantic to the South as fast as you can, caring little for easting until you have cleared the calms of Capricorn, and caught the " brave West winds" on the polar side of that belt ; then shape your course the meridian of 60° E., and then steer thence for the parallel of 40° S., near its intersection with 85° E.

This description of the course to be run, and the points of intersection to be gained, is given only for those navigators who may be unable to get out of the true Great Circle routes and courses.

It is well to remark that most ice has been seen along this route, between 20° and 40° E., and that much is to be gained by running down your easting as near to the South as ice and safety will permit. So impressed have I been with the gain to be made by running well to the South in this part of the ocean, that I formerly said, with regard to the route to Australia -

" In further proof that the route recommended in the Sailing Directions of the Admiralty is too far to the North, and as an illustration of the advan- tage of the route which I advise, I have prepared some tables, and it appears from them that there is no longer room for difference of opinion as to the advantages of going farther South than 39° - 40°; how much farther, though,

still remains to be decided. But so far as the facts before us go, they justify the assertion that for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route to Australia, you gain three days on the average, until you reach the parallel of 45° - 6°, for the averages of the table are not below this parallel ; and I believe it will turn out that the best streak of wind, in the long run, is to be found between 45° and 50° 8. It seems to be almost as steady, between these parallels, from the westward, as it is anywhere to the East, between the trade wind parallels of 15° and 20°. The average "vertex" of those North of that parallel is 39° 7' S. The mean parallels upon which the latter ence of 5°, the average gain of those who take the more southern parallels is 14 days, which comes very near to an average of 3 days' gain on the voj'^age to Australia for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route. As far as 80° E., the Admiralty route to Australia and the old route to Sunda are the same. The average speed to Australia by the Admiralty route is 134 miles a day against 154 by the new route ; so that the route well to the South has in its favour not only better winds, but shorter degrees and longer daily runs.

If the winds were fair all the way, the nearest route to Java Head from the fairway off St. Roque would be via the Cape of Good Hope ; indeed, the Great Circle from St. Koque to Java runs through the unexplored regions of Africa. But both the winds and the land render such a route in navigation impracticable ; for the former generally compel the outward Indiaman, in spite of herself, to cross the meridian of 25° W. as far South as the parallel of 30° - 33° S. ; and the Great Circle thence to Java Head passes some 8° or 10° South of the Cape of Good Hope. Moreover, the winds in the Indian Ocean render a departure from the Great Circle again necessary. The winds, however, are such as to admit all four of the routes on pages

The route No. 3 is 600 miles shorter, and has better winds than the present route. But, after clearing the S.E. trades of the Atlantic, the pre- sent route runs about 1,000 miles obliquely across the calms of Capricorn, where the average rate of sailing is not over 100 miles a day. Now, by going straight across these calms as by route (1), you will clear them gene- rally in two days, and then get those " brave West winds," which will waft you along at the rate of 200 or 300 miles a day, according to the heels of the ship.

The navigator, therefore, will act most wisely who will wait, and let things as he may find them govern him as to where, after clearing the S.E. trades, he will begin to shape his course for the Great Circle to the meridian of 85° East, or for the meridian near which he proposes to cross the calms of Ca- pricorn in the Indian Ocean. Suffi' e it to say, he may begin to do it any-

Java Head several days sooner, on the average, than he would by continuing to follow the present; route.

In attempting to follow these Great Circle routes, navigators should recol- lect that the greate&t saving of distance, as compared with the rhumb-line route, is always along those arcs that lie nearly East and West, and are farthest from the equator ; and that, so far as distance is concerned, he might as well be out of his way on one side of these arcs as the other. As illustrative of this route, I may refer to the track of a ship whose log I have, and with regard to which I only say that, it she had stood on from lat. per Grreat Circle route, she would probably have done better ; as it is, she of the Dutch.

" on my chart, the Great Circle course thence to Java Head, the vertex being practicable, having in view the favourable sailing points of the vessel, and being compelled to run her before some of the heavy seas of the high lati- tudes until reaching the parallel of 30° in long, about 69° E., when I deemed it prudent to keep to the eastward of the Great Circle course, and approach the meridian of Java Head larther South, to forelay for the chance of there being considerable easting in the trades. I crossed the tropic in about 94° 30' E. long., and fetched Java Head, sailing upon an easy bow-line (which is a good sailing point of the vessel, and, I believe, of most sharp vessels). I will remark here that I could find nothing explicit in ' Hors- burgh' regarding the direction of the wind in the S.E. trades; but, after many unsatisfactory remarks, the whole is summed up on page 161, vol. i. 5th edition, thus : - When the sun has great North declination, it may not be absolutely requisite for ships which sail well to reach the meridian of thoir port so far southward, the trade wind then blowing more from S.E. and E.S.E. in general than from East and E.N.E.

Accompanying my abstract is an abstract of the log of the ship Minstrel, of Boston, which vessel (commanded by my brother) pursued the Admiralty route in running up her easting ; and, although he crossed the equator in the Atlantic 12 days before me, yet I made Java Head the day before him, and there was not much difference in the sailing of the vessels. Where I gained on him most was in high latitudes. Although I made a fair passage by pursuing the circle course so far as the latitude of 33°, yet I would not again adhere to it farther than the vertex ; thence, I would sail East on or near, that parallel until reaching the longitude of 90", or thereabouts - then

hauling North across the belt of variables to the southward of the trades, at right angles, and be upon the safe side, after reaching the trades, at any season of the year.

A good passage could, perhaps, be made by sailing on a circle course from the Atlantic to a good position relative with Java Head, in the Indian thereabout. And I should not feel justified in attempting to pursue such a route, until we have some definite information relative to the existence of danger from ice, against which Horsburgh cautions navigators.

Navigators, by taking the old route, are liable to meet with another diffi- culty, especially when they attempt to run down their longitude near the parallel of 35° - 6° S. About this parallel is a famous place for circular storms - cyclones. They revolve with the sun, and the parallel of 35° - 6° ia frequently traversed by the southern edge of them ; consequently, as these storms travel East or West, the wind on the southern edge of them is gene- rally from the eastward."

Thus far Captain Maury, to which two remarks may be appended, the one on the dangers from ice in high southern latitudes, the other on the occurrence of cyclones in the lower parallels.

The frequency of ice and its peculiarities in the Southern Indian Ocean is dwelt upon in our Directory for the Indian Ocean, pages 86 - 91, and it is there shown that the drifts attain a lower latitude in the southern winter than at other seasons, nearly approaching the Cape of Good Hope in July to September, but then it is considered that they leave a clear space to the southward. In January to March they are not frequently encountered north-

In the same work the question of the occurrence of cyclones on the paral- lels indicated is discussed, and to those pages the reader is referred.

There can be no doubt but these revolving storms do sometimes attain these latitudes after recurving from the northward, and passing to the east- ward. Should the well-known indications of these meteors be clearly ascer- tained, of course it behoves the commander to seek that edge of the disk (the northern edge), which will help him forward on his voyage, rather than be opposed by the contrary gales on its southern margins.

But it is argued by some that these gales are generally not revolving, but are right lined winds, or so slightly curved in their paths that they cannot be classed as cyclones. Upon this topic see pages 12, 13, of the Indian Ocean Directory - the whole subject and its application being given in pages

To the two opinions given above, as to the best parallel for running down the easting after passing round the Cape of Good Hope, we may add that of Mr. Towson, whose labours on this subject are well known. It is true that his object was to shorten the road to Australia, and therefore the tracks lie

to the southward of that great continent ; but they will hold good equally for that which diverges to the northward before reaching this eastern exten- sion. He chooses the parallel of 51° S. for passing across the Southern Indian Ocean to the southward of Kerguelen Land.

With all deference to these great authorities, may it not be that all are right, if their views are followed in different seasons. It would seem to be quite natural that a lower latitude would carry all the advantages during the winter season that a high parallel does in the summer. The limits between the trade winds and the westerly anti-trades certainly vibrates in latitude with the progress of the sun in the ecliptic ; and therefore, during the in- clement winter, the Admiralty parallel of 39° - 40° may be quite as advan- tageous (except as regards the distance to be run) as the probably more bois- terous but shorter course in higher latitude. Aguiii, in the summer months the parallels advocated by Maury and Towson may certainly be safely fol- lowed ; but in this, also, some other considerations may enter. The sailing powers of the ship, the nature of her cargo, and the health of the crew and passengers (especially if the latter be an important item in the account) would lead the commander to hesitate before he would carry his vessel into climates very much colder than that he has recently left, and which he will soon enter again, and where he will probably meet with heavy winds and turbulent seas.

As has been said above, the point does not appear to be entirely decided, nor can it be so when each ship may, from motives of expediency, require different handling. The above facts and opinions are given, and the com- mander must make his own choice of them. For pursuing the voyage to the northward, the following is given in the Admiralty Directions.

In the South-east Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of April to the middle of September, vessels, having passed the island of St. Paul, should not edge away too quickly to the northward, but should endeavour to reach first as far to the eastward into the S.E. trade wind as the meridian of Java Head, crossing the southern tropic in about 102° E. In this season a westerly current runs along the South coast of Java, and in the months of June, July, and August, when it is at its greatest strength, it will be indispensable to be well to the eastward, or otherwise the ship will be liable to fall to leeward of Java Head. In the vicinity of Java the S.E. monsoon also veers some- times to East or E.N.E.

In the North-west Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of October to the mid- dle of March, but especially in December and January, the southern tropic should be crossed several degrees to the westward of the meridian of Java Head, when a direct course can be steered for Sunda Strait, or to make En- gano Island, or the land about Flat Point, the southern extreme of Sumatra. Great care must be taken during this monsoon not to fall to leeward of Java Head, for the westerly winds blow with great violence along the South coast

of Java, and their strength, united with the strong current setting to the eastward, make it impracticable to beat up along this coast ; a vessel may thus have to steer to the southward, and re-enter the S.E. trade, in order to make sufficient westing to fetch Flat Point. When nearly on the parallel of Java Head, and one or two degrees to the westward of it, a direct course may be steered for the Strait, with an allowance for a probable current setting to the southward.

If contrary winds are met with shortly after leaving St. Paul Island, in November, December, or January, a vessel may steer at once to the north- ward, and cross the tropic in 80° or 90° E., when she will meet with westerly winds to carry her to the strait.

Shifting of the Monsoons. - During the period when these changes occur, i.e., from about the middle of September to the end of October, and from about the middle of March to the end of April, the winds are variable and uncertain. It is advisable at those times to make sufficient easting in the S.E. trade to bring Java Head nearly North, and then to steer direct for it, borrowing a little to the eastward or westward, when it is approached, as may be required by the prevailing wind or other circumstances.

In the S.W. Monsoon. - In this, the fair wind season, there is no great difficulty in making a passage around the South end of Ceylon, or from Madras, or any of the Coromandel ports. Having passed Ceylon, steer so as to pass, in lat. 6° 20' N., through the channel between Pulo Eondo and the South end of the Great Nicobar. If the monsoon be strong from southern quarters, and the weather overcast, so that there may be some uncertainty in the latitude for want of observations, keep southward towards Acheen Head, to guard against the chance of a northerly current. But great caution is necessary in such weather, because, should the wind have had much westing in it, it may have caused a south-westerly current down the West coast of Sumatra, Such a contingency must be guarded against when it is neared in dark, stormy weather. Acheen is generally best made from the southward at this season, passing with great precaution either through the Surat Passage iwithin the islands, or, which is better, northward of Pulo Brasse, by the Bengal Passage.

Bound through the strait, and having passed the islands off Acheen Head, which is then best to be avoided, stand on towards Pulo Bouton, on the eastern side of the Strait of Malacca, because, as has been before explained, the high land of the Pedir Coast, intercepting the monsoon, causes light baffling winds all along the Sumatra side. When Pulo Bouton is made bearing to eastward, you may be able to carry brisk westerly winds up to Pulo Penang. Should the winds be light, a northerly current may be

encountered setting out of the entrance to the strait, and this may set the ship to northward of Pulo Bouton ; but when once the islands on the Malay coast are made, there will be no difficulty in getting along that coast to the S.E. Keep within a moderate di^stance of the coast, in 35 to 20 fathoms, making for the Sambilangs, carefully avoiding the mud bank off the coast between Penang and Pulo Binding, in lat. 4° 14' N. The outer edge of this, as is shown in the subsequent descriptions, is steep-to, shoaling suddenly from 10 and 8 fathoms to 9 ft. in some parts, and it must therefore not be neared into less than 12 to 15 fathoms. Passing between the steep, rocky Sambilangs and the isolated Pulo Jarra, in the middle of the strait, which is perfectly clean with the deepest water in the strait around it, you make for the West end of the North Sands, those dangerous shoals which run parallel with the coast, but which danger is much diminished by the light- ship on the One-fathom Bank, between the North and South sands. Should you meet with an adverse wind when up with the Sambilangs, keep along the Perak coast in moderate depths, not less than 10 or 11 fathoms, as there may be a useful counter-tide and good anchorage in doing so. Having arrived at the One-fathom Bank and its lightship, and sighted the Arroa Islands, there will be no difficulty in getting up to Singapore, as shown in the subsequent descriptions.

In the N.E. Monsoon. - The passage to the eastward against this fine weather monsoon is tedious and lingering. Having passed Ce^-lon, it is best to keep to the northward, passing between the Nicobar Islands and the Little Andaman ; or, if from Madras, through the Sonibreiro Channel. Those from Ceylon should keep well in with the South end of the Great Nicobar, if the wind will permit, in entering the strait. But should you get drifted to leeward of Pulo Brasse, enter it by the Surat Passage, around Acheen Head. When past Acheen Head, a westerly current will be en- countered running along the coast between that and Diamond Point ; but in the offing and on the Malay side it sets more or less to the northward throughout the ^ear. Therefore, when within the strait, get away from the {Sumatra coast, and try to gain the Malay side, where there are more favourable winds, tidal streams, and the alternating land and sea breezes by which you may work to the S.E.

In the S.W. Monsoon. - It is best to keep on the Sumatra side of the Malacca Strait in going westward during this monsoon, because there is an eddy current at its entrance on that side, especially along the Pedir Coast. Having, by means of every shift of wind and this favouring drift got up to Acheen Head, pass between Pulo Way and Pulo Brasse by the Bengal Passage, keeping close to the latter island and around the islets at its North

end. If bound to Madras the passage will be very tedious, and every slant of wind must be zealously taken advantage of.

If bound for Ceylon or the western ports, and having cleared Acheen Head, make for the southward, keeping off the islands along the West coast of Sumatra as far as possible. Having crossed the equator, and got into the S.E. trades, run down your westing till up with the meridian of the port of destination. Then bear up northward, and if bound to Point de Galle, make the land of Ceylon to the westward ; or, if to Trincomalee or the East coast, make the S.E. part of the island, for strong westerly winds and very violent easterly currents prevail about the South part of Ceylon at this season.

This passage to the eastward, during the adverse monsoon, is seldom at- tempted if it can be avoided, and unless a vessel can keep well on the wind it may be very difficult.

In the N.E. Monsoon. - There is do difficulty in this passage. Keep on the Malay coast until up with Junkseylon, and then steer so as to pass be- tween Car Nicobar and the South end of the Little Andaman, if early in the season. If bound noi'thward of Madras, either the above or the Sombreiro Passage may be chosen, taking care to make the coast to the northward of the destined port.

Having passed through Sunda Strait, for which directions will be given in the subsequent pages, and bound to Banka Strait, it is usual to steer a direct course for the Two Brothers. With a working wind, it will be prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the Sumatra coast; 11 or 12 fathoms ia a good depth. A good mark in daylight is, when standing in-shore, to tack when North Island is just on with the highest Zutphen Island ; the sound- ings will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and a large ship should not risk a less depth when working between North Island and the Swallow Eock, which she will pass eastward of, if the South Brother is not brought east-

Although the space between the Thousand Islands and the Two Brothers can be navigated with more confidence since its partial examination by Com- mander Bullock, in H.M.S. Serpent, in 1865, yet, as no complete survey has been made, the mariner is recommended to proceed with caution. The Brothers may be passed at a prudent distance on either side. On passing to the eastward, take care to avoid the Lynn and Brouwers Eeefs ; and when passing between the islands and the Shahbundar Banks, a vessel should not keep larther from the islands than 3 miles, and not nearer the coast of Su- matra than the depth of 9 fathoms.

Having passed the Brothers, steer to the northward towards Lucipara,

keeping the Brothers to the westward of South, to avoid the reported posi- tion of the Clifton shoal, and endeavouring to keep in soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms, as a direct course cannot be depended upon, on account of irre- gular currents or tides setting out from the rivers. Neither can the sound- ings in this track be implicitly trusted to, being irregular, from 8^ to 11 or 12 fathoms in some places, particularly contiguous to Tree Island bank, and the edges of the other banks projecting from the coast of Sumatra, also in the vicinity of the Arend and Boreas banks in the offing. It will be, how- ever, prudent to borrow towards the main if the depths increase to 12 or 13 fathoms ; and to haul off from it if they decrease to 8A or 9 fathoms towards the banks that line the coast. Near these the soundings are generally hard and more irregular than farther out from the land, in 12 or 13 fathoms ; but, in the latter depths, a ship will be too far off the coast with a westerly

When the weather is clear, during the day, it may be proper to get a sight of the coast from the poop of a large ship at times, edging out occasionally in the night, or when the depths decrease to 8J or 9 fathoms. Having passed the bank off Tree Island, the coast may be approached with greater safety, and the depth will decrease, regularly steering northward for Lucipara, to

If at night a vessel should come into shallow water between the Two Brothers and Lucipara, and not being certain whether she is on either the Arend or Boreas banks, or the bank off the coast of Sumatra, it is advisable to anchor immediately, and to wait for daylight, for the depths are moderate, and the bottom throughout this track generally favourable for that pur-

When bound from Banka Strait to that of Sunda, the proper course will be about S. by E., keeping in from 9 to 13 fathoms ; but the currents are too variable to trust implicitly to any course, and the depths also are top irregular to depend on them alone, for the 5 and 4^ fathoms Boreas and Arend banks may be easily mistaken for those south-eastward of Tree Island, which are very dangerous. It will therefore be advisable in day- time to keep on the Sumatra side in 8 or 9 fathoms, from which depths that shore is generally visible from the deck, and at night to keep off shore when the water shoals to less than 9 fathoms, and to approach it when it deepens to more than 13 fathoms, as that depth with westerly winds would be too far off.

Having arrived in about 3° 40' S., or about 30 miles distant from the Two Brothers, keep as nearly as possible in 9 or 10 fathoms, so as to get sight of these islands bearing South, but not to the eastward of that bearing in order to avoid the Clifton Shoal ; otherwise, if made when in 1 1 fathoms, it would

be difficult to weather them with a westerly wind, especially as the current runs to the south-eastward during the western monsoon. When passing to the eastward of the Two Brothers, recollect the Brouwers and Lynn Eeefs.

Coming from the northward the Two Brothers appear like one island, and hence some vessels have been led into danger by mistaking Mound Imbong, or Knob-hill, in Sumatra, when seen in the twilight, for these islands. Sail- ing past these islands at night, the vessel's position should be well ascertained before dark, or else it would be better to anchor.

Having passed on either side of the Brothers, the safest bearing to bring them upon appears to be N. ^ E. After losing sight of them upon that bearing, a course about S. by W. may be steered for the entrance of Sunda

Captain Ste-phens, of the shi-p ffarkawat/, says: - "In May, approaching Sunda Strait from the eastward the Java side should be steered for, and kept aboard, as then the winds are light, those from S.E. prevailing at night, and from N.E. during the day ; this precaution will prevent the vessel being carried by the current to the westward of the Button Islet ; this current runs constantly to the S. W. in the middle of the strait, it is checked by the short flood, but runs strong with a long ebb."

Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore seldom adopt the O uter route to the eastward of the islands of Linga and Bintang, most vessels pre- ferring to proceed by Ehio Strait ; it, however, forms part of the main route into the China Sea, and is therefore of great importance.

Outer Eoute. - The ordinary route for vessels bound northward is be- tween the Toejoe Islands and Pulo Taya ; they may, however, pass on either eide of Pulo Taya, which, being high and bold, is very convenient to make in thick weather or at night.

At night, or in thick weather, the lead will be very useful in detecting the drift caused by cross currents between the Toejoe Islands and Sumatra, for the depth decreases generally towards Sumatra, and increases towards those islands ; but care should be taken in approaching them, as the remarkable irregularities of the currents have brought many vessels into the danger of being entangled among them. Near Sumatra a mud bottom mixed with Band prevails, and near the islands mud only.

The Castor Bank, lying to the N.E. of Pulo Taya, carries not less than 5 fathoms water, but a vessel will pass eastward of it by not bringing Pulo Taya South of S.W. ^ W., and westward of it by keeping that island South of S.S.W. ^ W. The East point of Linga (which, with a point to the w^est- ward of it, appears at a distance like two islands) bearing N.N.W. will lead from 4 to 5 miles to the N.E. both of the Castor Bank and the Ilchester Shoal. But in order to avoid the last-named danger, if the channel between

the Castor Bank and Linga is used, take care not to bring the East point of Linga to the East of North.

Having passed eastward of Pule Taya, a course may be steered to cross steer about North until past the Frederick and Oeldria shoals, observing in to avoid those dangers ; if it be day when Pulo Euig or Ragged Island ia seen, keep it westward of N.W., and it will lead eastward of these shoals. When abreast of Pulo Panjang, and in soundings of 24 or 25 fathoms water, a N.W. or N.W. by W. course, according to tide, will lead to the entrance of Singapore Strait.

The Inner Route, by the Strait of Rhio, will be noticed in connection with the description of the coast of the strait hereafter given, as the various marks, &c., will be best understood by referring to those descriptions.

Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore during the strength of the N.E. monsoon frequently adopt the Inner Route by the Varella and Durian Straits. During the prevalence of strong northerly winds in the months of December and January, sailing vessels will save much time by doing so, for here they will have smooth water, good anchorage, and but little tide, whereas on the eastern side of Linga, at this season of the year, there ia generally a heavy sea, and a southerly current sometimes running at the rate of 3 knots an hour. In Yarella Strait they will also be greatly assisted by the squalls from the Sumatra coast.

Varella, or Brahalla Strait, is situated at the southern part of this route, and Durian Strait at its northern part ; the intermediate portion has not received a specific denomination. The entire route is about 120 miles in length from Pulo Varella to the Carimon Islands, and is bounded on the western side by the coast of Sumatra, False Durian, Sabon, and the con- tiguous islands ; and on the eastern side by Sinkep and the other islands off the South and West coasts of Linga, and by Great and Little Durian, and the adjacent islands.

The Strait of Malacca and Strait of Singapore, and their navigation, will be also described in subsequent pages.

In South-west Monsoon. - When June approaches, and the S.W. mon- soon is set regularly in, the track from Singapore to China by the main route^ eastward of Pulo Sapatu and over Macclesfield Bank, is preferable, the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast. About full and change of the moon, and as early as April, a westerly breeze will sometimes be found blowing out of the Gulf of Siam to carry a vessel to Macclesfield Bank, and afterwards easterly winds to run her to Hong

Thia route becomes precarious if a sailing vessel is not up with Pulo Sapatu early in October ; for near this island, about the middle of that mouth, strong southerly currents begin to prevail with light northerly winds, variable airs, and calms, by which many vessels have been delayed lor several days, and have made no progress to the northward. Fresh winds from the southward have been met with, even so late as 1st of November, but these instances are rare.

Some vessels proceeding by the main route have carried strong S.W. and southerly winds, when others taking the inner route have at the same time experienced N.W. and westerly gales blowing out of the Gulf of Tong King, with dark weather and rain, and have been in danger of being driven among the Paracel Eeefs ; the inner route ought, however, to be chosen in the strength of the S.W. monsoon if the vessel is weak and making much water, for the sea will be smooth, and being near the land she may reach an an- chorage if required. The gales out of the gulf are not frequent, and the land may be kept in sight nearly all the time.

Taking the inner route, steer from Pulo Aor along the coast to the Eedang Islands, thence across the Gulf of Siam, and along the coasts of Cambodia and Cochin China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Touron. From thence Bteer for the S.W. part of Hainan, coasting along this island, and passing between it and the Taya Islands ; then cross over to make the coast of China about Tien-pak, or Hailing Island. The islands from thence to Hong Kong may be coasted along at discretion, or shelter may be found amongst them on an emergency. If this route is taken before the middle of March or 1st of April, the passage will be tedious unless the vessel is a

good sailer.

Bound to Hong Kong in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, with the wind steady between S.E. and S.W., endeavour to make the Great Ladrone Island bearing about North, then steer between it and the Kypong Islands, and between Lingting and the Lema Islands, for the West Lamma Channel. After the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail seve- ral days together, as they are more or less at all seasons, it will be necessary to make the N.E. head of the Lema Islands, and proceed in by the Lema Channel, towards the West Lamma Channel. The East Lamma Channel is also safe in both monsoons, for although the water is deep, if the wind falls light it is safe to anchor in, and there is little or no tide.

In North-east Monsoon. - Sailing vessels leaving Singapore for China in February, March, and part of April, may expect a tedious beating passage, if they adopt the main route. In March, April, or May, they can proceed by the inner route along the Coast of Cochin China, which is generally the most expeditious route in these months.

The passage to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luzon may be fol- lowed late in the S.W. monsoon ; without much difElculty in October and

November ; and it is now often made in December, January, and at every period of the N.E. mcnsoou.*

In December, January, and February,! sailing vessels should not leave the entrance of Singapore Strait, in strong N.E. winds, but anchor on the northern shore, under the Water Islands, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In those months gales often occur at new and full moon ; the weather is then thick, the rain lasting two or three days, and the current outside accelerates to the instead of fetching St. Barbe Island, would fall bodily to leeward, and have to work up the West coast of Borneo. Fine weather follows, the wind backing round to North and N. W. ; the current in the offing decreasing in strength to about 1 i knot.

Leave the Water Islands with the first of the ebb, and keep clean full. Stand to the north-eastward to go through the channel between Subi Island and the Great Natuna ; a passage that may without much difficulty be made, in these months especially, at full and change, when the wind, after

- It was formerly the general custom for the clipper vessels employed in the opiuni trade hetween India and China to beat up the middle of the China Sea in the strength of the N.E. monsoon, keeping as close to the western edges of the reefs as possible, where the current was found to be generally in their favour. Many commanders who have been accustomed to make their passages in that way are strongly of opinion that it is the best route for vessels later in the season than the month of November, whilst others who have been accustomed to proceed by the Palawan have just as strong opinions in favour of that route. The following remarks of Mr. T. B. White, who was for many years in command of clipper vessels engaged in the opium trade, appear to be exceedingly valuable, inasmuch as thej' furnish a balanced opinion on the respective advantages of these routes. He says : " I am sorry I cannot say much from experience in oeating up the Palawan in a sailing vessel, for during the entire period of my command of the Lanrick I never once went that way, but always along the western edges of the shoals. I am, however, now quite certain that I should have often made much quicker passages, and saved much wear and tear, by going up the Palawan. In the Fiery Cross, although a powerful steamer, I found it pre- ferable to take the Palawan, and always did so during the strength of the N.E. monsoon (November to February), saving fuel and wear and tear ; and, though a longer route, mads better passages by getting smooth water and often favourable currents. I believe nearly all heavily laden ships now take the Palawan from October until the end of February in preference to the outer passage, and a current to the north-eastward is generally felt the nearer the Borneo coast is kept aboard, and usually the weather is moderate, with a rolling beam swell on ; at l^ast that has been m.y experience when going up in the steamer, Mr. Eeynell, in the clipper Waterwitch, usually took the Palawan in the N.E. monsoon, and made some very good passages. Now that it is so thoroughly well surveyed, I consider it quite as safe as the outer passage."

t These directions (as far eastward as the Natuna Islands) apply with equal force to vessels bound either to the Gulf of Siam or the River Saigon. They have been compiled chiefly from " Sailing Directions between Singapore and the River Saigon, by Mr. A. J. LoituR, commanding the ship Kensington," by Commander J. W. King, E.N.

a few hours' calm, frequently hauls to the westward with squalls and rain, and then veers round to S.W. and South, blowing moderately for 2^ hours.

By taking avantage of these slants, Subi may be easily weatliered, and the intricate channels between it and the N.W. coast of Borneo avoided. After fetching Low Island, in long. 107° 48' E., if the wind continues easterly, take the starboard tack to the northward, passing westward of Low Island, keeping not less than 3 miles from the south-western side, to avoid the shoal water as far as 2 miles from its shore. Q-ive Haycock a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing, as the coral shoal about that island extends fully 3 miles from its S.W. side. Large ships should not pass eastward of Haycock at night, as this locality is said to have hidden danger.

Alter passing Haycock there will be no difficulty in working up to the S.E. point of the Great Natuna, as that island, when approaching it from the S.W., shelters against the strong N.E. current of the monsoon. Off its southern shore at night, in fine weather, the wind is ofi" the land, which should not be appi'oached nearer than 2 or 3 miles without a good breeze, as the water is deep close in-shore, and no good anchorage.

Vessels fetching to leeward of Subi with a northerly wind should take the Koti Passa'2;e, between Pulo Panjung and Sirhassen Island. The Sirhassen Passage is also a good channel, and quite safe when the South side of Sirhassen Island is kept aboard. The currents among these islands are more regular ; but not so in the Api Passage, where they set in various directions, and with great velocity to the S.W. from 16 to 19 hours at a time ; for large ships any of the other passages are preferable to this, for great caution and perseverance are requisite in working through, as the Borneo coast in from 10 to 11 fathoms water must be kept aboard to avoid the cur- rent and profit by the land winds.*

In taking the Koti Passage, give Pulo Panjung a good berth to avoid the

* For steam vessels (especially those of small power) proceeding; to China by the Palawan passage against the N.E. monsoon, the route by the Api Passage and the coast of Borneo presents the following advantages : hrst, light, variable winds and smooth water will often be found close to the Borneo coast, when a strong monsoon is blowing a hundred miles off it ; and next the Api passage route affords convenient landmarks to lead a vessel safely and expeditiously to the entrance of the Palawan ; whereas by the ordinary route much diffi- culty and delay frequently occurs in making Low Island, and in passing between the Royal Charlotte and Louisa iShoals.

Steamers leaving Singapore should pass southward of Victory Island, then steer to sight the small island of St. Pierre (carefully observing and allowing lor the set of the current), and afterwards for the Api Passage, keeping over towards Marundiim Island rather than Api Point. Ha\'ing passed Marundum and Data Point, the course is cl^ar up to the en- trance of the Palawan, passing between the South Luconia shoals and Barram Point, and keeping as close to the Borneo coast until abreast of that point as circumstances may make convenient. - Navigating-Lieutenant J. W. Reed, commanding Her Majesty's surveying vessel Itifleman, 1866.

dangerous reef wliich suirouudB it. The winds amongsst these islands, aud as far eastward as the meiidian of Cape iSirik, are generally from Nurth to N.N.W. The passage cleared, proceed to the north-eastward; endeavour- ing, if not ct-rtaiu oi the longitude, to make the Royal Charlotte or Louisa IStioal, whichever is the weathermost, by running on its parallel of latitude ; and as the currents appear to be influenced by the prevailing winds, vessels sduuld bt; prepared to anticipate a set in the direction in which it is blowing, tiie velocity of the current being proportionate to the force of the wind.

Having made either the Royal Churlotte or Lcjuisa Shoals, on passing mid-channel between them, steer E. by N. 100 miles, aud then about N.E. bearing about east-southerly, and making like a r.ither flat-topped island, with a small peak rising in the centre ; when about 40 miles distant from the island, the low hills may be seen on either side of the peak, having at first the appearance of detached islands.

Having brought Balabac Peak to bear about E.S.E. at the above distance, a N.N.E. f E. course should be steered, when the high land of Bulanhow will soon be discernible, bearing about N.E. by E. f E. This course should lead about 6 miles eastward of the reported Roger Breakers, 10 miles west- ward of the elbow of the bank of soundings fronting Palawan Island, and midway between the Ro_)al CapiHUi Shoal and the edge of the bank (the most dangerous part of the channel). When Bulanhow Mountain bears fcj.E. by E. I E. the vessel will be in line with it and the Royal Oiptain Shoal, and in the narrowest part of the channel, which is 27f miles wide, and the high land of Alantaleengaliau will then bear E. i S.

If the wind be well to the southward, and the weather thick, Balabac Island may be approached nearer, in order to get well hold of the land, but extreme caution sliould be taken not to go within 12 miles of it, as sound- ings of 26 and 20 fathoms extend that distance off, in a westerly direction from the peak, having shoal patches immediately inside them.

If the wind be to the westward, with thick cloudy weather, Balabac Island should nut be approached nearer than 36 miles, for these winds usually force a strong current tiirough the straits to the eastward, and when off the S.W. end of PaLiwau, it is not unusual for them, particularly in squalls, to veer to W.N.W., and sometimes N.W., blowing with great violence, aud placing the vessel on a lee shore with respect to the shoals inside the ed^e of the bank. It generally so happens, that about the time, September and October, when vessels adopt the i'alawan route, this weather prevails off the S.W. end of Palawan, rendering it uncertain and uiffivuit to hit the narrowest part \>f the channel, owing to the laud being ob- scured, especially if neither the Royal Charlotte nor the Louisa Shoal has been made, aud the longitude corrected.

Uuder these circumstances, it is advisable to advance with caution, regu-

lating the speed of the vessel so as to be in the fairway, viz., lat. 8° N., long. 116° 15' E., for making the channel at daylight. Horsburgh recommends night, unless confident of the accuracy of the reckoning.

If not certain of the vessel's position, endeavour to get soundings on the edge of the bank to the north-westward of Balabac Island, and the safest part to approach for this purpose is that about the elbow, on the parallel of 8° 30° N., or immediately to the southward of it, for it is believed the portion of the bank whicli is embraced by the bearings of Balabac Peak, S.E. by E. ^ E. and S.S.E., comprising a distance of 25 miles, is free from danger. If the peak be obscured, the same bearings of the body of the island will, if taken with care, answer. Or should the North extreme of the island be discernible (showing like a hillock, with a low double hill to the southward), the part of no danger will be included within the lines of bearing of it, East

During the period in which the Eoyalist was engaged upon this survey, experience led to the belief that in the thickest weather the land is seldom totally obscured for any length of time.

Having obtained soundings, which will be about 90 fathoms, if close to the edge of the bank, and from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand, if inside, haul off to the north-westward, to give the edge a berth of about 10 miles, then steer the channel course N.N.E. f E. When Bulanhow Mountain bears eastward of E. by N. ^ N., the elbow has been passed, and the bank then trends of 60 miles) on the East, and the Half Moon, Eoyal Captain, and Bombay Shoals on the West, that the most dangerous part of the Passage lies.

When Montaleengahan Mountain bears S.E. ^ E., or the Pagoda Cliff, (generally seen when the more elevated land is obscured), S.E. ^ S., the vessel will be on the line of the Bombay Shoal, where the channel is 28 miles broad.

Having passed the Bombay Shoal, abreast of which the bank trends N.E. ^ N., steer a course parallel with its edge, preserving a distance of 8 or 12 miles from it, and 27 or 30 miles from the land, or nearer, if convenient, and the peaks on Palawan are sufficiently distinct to get good cross bearings. It is, however, not desirable to get too close, as the edge of the bank in several rocky patches lie within a mile, and in some places only 3 cables* lengths from the 100 fathoms line.

This N.E. A N. course, edging a little more to the northward when abreast of Ulugan Bay, where the bank extends 28 miles from the shore, will take a vessel through the passage clear of every known danger.

Vessels working through the Palawan Passage, having conformed to the directions given for making the S.W. end of Palawan, should, in fine weather, endeavour to make their inshore boards in the afternoon, for the

8un then being astern of the vessel, the patches lying near the edge of the bank will generally be distinguished from the mast-head in ample time to tack off. In squally weather, also, during heavy rains, these patches have been observed imparting a yellowish hue to the surface of the water.

It is almost needless to remind the seaman (when the land is obscured) of the desirableness of getting hold of the edge of the bank before dark, in order that he may have a good departure for the night ; and on making his inshore board, it must also be borne in mind, that the probability of coming suddenly into soundings is great, as the approach on this tack will generally be at right angles to the edge of the bank. He should therefore be prepared to go round immediately on getting indication of soundings.

Proceeding northerly from the Palawan Passage, it is customary to beat up the West coast of Luzon to Piedra Point, and thence direct for Macao or Hong Kong, passing leeward of the Pratas. But if bound to any of the ports northward, much time might be saved by passing along the eastern coast of Formosa, thereby avoiding the heavy labour, wear, and loss of time, by the attempt to work against the monsoon along the coast of China, which even a clipper sometimes fails in effecting.

In working along the Luzon coast, particularly about dawn or sunset, less sea, and much lighter winds, and at times even land breezes will be ex- perienced by hugging the coast by short boards ; but great caution should be observed, particularly between Piedra Point and Cape Bojeador, as several coastline dangers do not find a place in the charts.

The first strong gust of the monsoon will be experienced on clearing Cape Bojeador, but this should not induce the navigator to stand further westward than will enable him to make his eastern stretch to weather it, when he will at once experience less wind. This generally is the case on all lee shores backed by mountains, either resulting from obstruction, reaction, or the effect probably, after sunset, of counteracting land winds. Among the groups northward of Luzon there are no dangers which are not easily avoided, and no continuous strong breezes will be experienced, at all com- parable in force, or attended by high sea, similar to those which prevail between Piedra Point and Hong Kong. On the contrary, good working breezes, and at times light winds prevail, enabling a sailing vessel of mode- rate speed to make the range of 6 degrees northing in 8 days. Typhoons are likely to happen in both monsoons between the North coast of Luzon and Formosa.

In North-east Monsoon. - Ships bound from China to Singapore, or to the Straits of Gaspar and Banka, should in March and April adopt the main route by the Macclesfield Bank, which is the most expeditious in thesa

months, keeping to the eastward on leaving the China Coast ; and also in passing Pulo Sapatu they ought to borrow to the eastward towards the fihoals, where the winds are more favourable in these months than farther to the westward. In April, the Vansittart, by keeping about 3 degrees more to the eastward than the Herefordshire, made as much progress in one day as the latter did in ten.* At all other times, the inner route by the coast of Cochin China seems preferable ; for it is the shorter, and the ease afforded to ships by steering from the Grand Ladrone immediately before the wind, when blowing strong at N.E., is a great advantage ; whereas, by the main route, a S.S.E. course is shaped for the Macclesfield Bank, often bringing the wind and sea before the beam, which strains a deeply-laden ship. Many have strained so much, that, in order to gain upon the pumps, they were forced to bear away for the inner ro)ite ; others, by persevering in the main route, have laboured excessively, and some of them at last foundered with their crews. Some of the ships which, after leaving China, have been missing, have probably suffered from the same cause. Had those ships, on leaving Canton River, steered S.S.W. h W. or S.S.W. I W., the direct course for the inner route, they probably would not have strained in the least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety.

Vessels may, according to circumstances, pass either to the eastward or westward of the Catwick Islands and Pulo Ceicer de Mer, or thin^ugh any of the channels between them ; but since the Rawson Shoal is known to have no existence, it would seem advisable, in thick weather, to pass 20 or 30 miles eastward of Pulo Sapatu, especially at night : from thence, passing westward of the Charlotte Bank and the Anamba Islands, steer to make Pulo Aor.

Should the weather be thick, and a fresh breeze blowing, when near Pulo Aor, round to under its lee, and wait a convenient time to bear up for the

* Captain Stephens says : - " Vessels leaving the coast of China or Manilla, and bound towards Sunda Strait, in March, April, or in the early part of May, may expect a tedious passage down the China Sea if proceeding by the old route which passes Pulo Sapatu, par- ticularly if they do not sail before the 5th or 10th of April. Whereas, if the track be taken alono- the coast of Luzon, down the Palawan Passage, along the coast of Borneo, past Direction Island, round Soruetou, and through the Carimata Strait, passing close round the North Watcher, and on for St. Nicholas Point on Java, they are likely to carry easterly winds, with fine weather and a smooth sea, the whole distance, thus making a direct course, and will avoid calms. The current will also be more favourable than otherwise until May is well advanced. To prove the advantages of the eastern route, it may be stated, that in April, 1861, two American ships sailed fram Fu-chau-fu; one proceeded by Pulo Sapatu on the West side of the China Sea, the other by the Palawan Passage and Carimata Strait ; the letter ship passed Anjer twenty days before the other. The Harkaway, on her passage in Aonl and May, 1862, carried an easterly wind the whole way down, and had no occasion to

strait.* The current between tliis island and the East point of Bintang sets about S.S.E., by which it often happens that vessels leaving Pulo Aor steer too much southerly, and are swept with the current and the ebb tide coming out of the strait, so far to leeward of Bintang, that they have been obliged to proceed round it, and come up through Rliio Strait,

In March, during the latter part of this munsoon, the winds are steady from the eastward, the weather settled, and the current weak. In April the prevailing winds are also from the eastward, and are much lighter and ac- companied with calms and squally weather ; from the latter end of this mouth to about the middle of May the monsoon gradually breaks up. In South- West Moxsoox. - Captain Blake, of H.M.S. Lame, remarks: - Although formerly considered impracticable, it is now a common practice for ships to work down the China Sea at all periods of the S. W. monsoon. After leaving Hong Kong, the usual course is to stand towards Hainan, which will be often fetched without tacking, as the wind frec^uently blows for days together from the S.E. or eastward in that part of the China Sea ; from thence across the Gulf of Tong King to the Cochin China coast. Land and sea breezes and smooth water generally prevail close to that coast, for which reason it is usual to work down as close to the shore as possible, taking advantage of every slant of wind, but being careful not to get too far off the land. It is sometimes possible to get as far to the southward as Cape Padaran in this way, but generally after passing Cape Yarela the monsoon is found blowing very fresh, with frequent hard squalls out of the Gulf of Siam, rendering it impassible for a ship to do much to windward. From Cape Varela, or from Cape Padaran, if a vessel has been able to fetch it, stretch away to the southward - making a tack, if necessary, to weather the Arest London or other shoals - till the coast of Borneo is reached, along which work, and pass out through any of the South Natuna channels. Stand across to Singapore, keeping well to the southward before closing Bintang, to be sure of your landfall, as the currents run very strong, sometimes 2 miles an hour to the northward.

In Noeth-East Monsoon. - Sailing vessels bound from Singapore to the Gulf of Siam in the N.E. monsoon generally pass eastward of the Natuna Islands. Smart sailing vessels proceed between the Anamba and Natuna Islands, and endeavour to make Pulo Obi ; they then steer for Pulo Dama, if bound to Kamput, in the Gulf of Siam ; or outside Pulo Panjang and Pulo Way, direct for Cape Liant, if bound to Bangkok. In February and March it frequently happens that vessels fall in with an easterly wind off Pulo Aor that takes them right up to Pulo Obi. - Captain Loftus.

* Since the edtablishment of the Horsburg light on Pedra Branca, there is really now no difiBculty in making Singapore Strait at any time, with proper attention.

The directions given on page 55 for proceeding from Singapore to Hong Kong apply also to vessels bound to the Gulf of Siam or to Saigon, until they have arrived to the eastward of the Natuna Islands, either by passing between the Great and South Natuna, or by the Koti Passage, when -

Jf hound to the Gulf of Siam, proceed to the north-eastward to about long. 11 Tor 112° E., which can easily be done, as the wind here is invariably from North to N.N.W. as far as the meridian of Cape Sirik, when it gene- rally hauls to the north-eastward ; then with a full sail stand on the star- board tack towards Pulo Obi. Little or no current will be experienced until governed considerably by the prevailing winds.

In April and May the best passages to the gulf are made by keeping the Malay coast aboard ; but expect squalls, calms, and rain. The current will also begin to set weakly to the N.E. - Lieut. J. Richards, R.N.

If bound to Saigon, proceed to the north-eastward to about 112° E., when stand over with a full sail on the starboard tack, to make Cape Tiwane. From lat. 7° N. until the mouths of the Cambodia Rivers bear West, distant about 70 miles, strong currents will be found setting to the S.W., governed considerably by the prevailing winds, for when strong gales blow in the early part of this monsoon, the south-westerly current is stronger, and often runs 3 knots an hour. The tides are regular, and set pretty strong in-shore on the Cochin China coast during both monsoons.

In the latter part of March and April an easterly wind is often found to the eastward of the Anamba Islands, that will take a ship to the Brothers, W. by S., about 24 miles from Pulo Condore ; and afterwards she may work up to Cape St. James inside that island, keeping close to the Cambodia coast, which is very low, and can seldom be seen at night.

After opening out the mouths of the Cambodia Eivers, strong ebbs will be found setting to windward, greatly assisting ships on tlie in-shore tack ; but they should not stand near these mouths during the flood tide, and on no account shoal the water to less than 12 fathoms in the night. The lead should never be neglected when standing towards this low land, which may be seen about 10 miles oflP on a fine clear day.

N.E. and N.N.E. gales often blow in the latitude of Pulo Sapatu, and between it and the Cochin China coast, in December, January, February, and sometimes March. They continue for two or three days with a heavy sea and strong current. A gradual rise in the barometer is a sure indication of one of these gales ; while at their height the mercury fluctuates about ,'o*o of an inch during the twenty-four hours, and commences falling before the gale is over, the sky being generally thick and hazy throughout.

After sighting the land, the vessel should gain the meridian of Cape St. James in one of these gales, bear up for Pulo Condore, and anchor either iu

the Great Bay, or in Pulo Condore Harbour, where good shelter will be found ; otherwise the vessel will be drifted to leeward of that island, and require several days to beat back to regain her former position.

In Sotjth-west Monsoon. - In this monsoon the winds prevail between S.E. and "West in Singapore Strait, and vessels will have no difficulty in sailing through to the eastward.

If bound to the Gulf of Siam, having cleared Singapore Strait, shape a course to make the Redang Islands ; and from thence keep the western shore of the gulf aboard, passing inside Puly Lozin and Koh Krah.

If bound to Saigon, steer to pass to the westward of Pulo Condore, mak- ing allowance for a current setting out of the Gulf of Siam, whilst crossing the entrance of that gulf. When the body of Pulo Condore bears about South, steer North, or N. ^ W., if an easterly current prevail ; which will soon bring the vessel on the edge of the bank that fronts the mouths of the Cambodia Rivers, and extends to the entrance of Saigon Eiver, Steer then northward along the edge of the bank, keeping in 8 to 12 fathoms ; if the water shoalens under 7 or 8 fathoms, haul to the eastward, and it will imme- diately deepen, the soundings being regular on the edge of the bank.

Directions for making the land about Cape St. James, and for proceeding up the Donnai Eiver to Saigon, are given hereafter.

In North-east Monsoon. - From Bangkok the passage down the gulf will frequently be shortened in the N.E. monsoon, by sighting the Kusrovie Eock, and passing between the Tanqualah group and Koh Tron. Keep well to the westward of Pulo Panjang, and if bound to Singapore, the passage will be made quicker by hauling well out into the China Sea ; passing about 20 miles outside Pulo Brala, outside Pulo Aor, and then steering for Barbukit Hill, so as to allow for the southerly current setting across the strait.

Approaching Pulo Timoan at night or in thick weather, a good lookout should be kept, and allowance made for the current setting to the south- westward, as vessels have several times found themselves close to the North end of that island when their reckoning has placed them well to the east- ward of it.

In South-west Monsoon. - From Bangkok to Singapore keep the western shore of the gulf aboard, passing inside the Eedang Islands, Pulo Kapas, and Pulo Brala. Below Pulo Kapas, everything depends on keeping in shore out of the current, and taking advantage of the land and sea breezes.

In N0ETH-EA.8T Monsoon. - From Cape St. James shape a course to pass to the eastward of Pulo Condore, and from thence direct to make Pulo Aor. From Pulo Aor to Singapore proceed according to directions previously

In South-west Monsoon. - Many good passages have been made by keeping the Cambodia coast aboard as far as the Brothers or Pulo Obi, and then crossing the Gulf of Siam with a strong north-westerly wind until the Malay coast is reached, and afterwards working with the tides, keeping close inshore, by passing inside of Timoan group, Siribuat, and Pulo Sibu,* and thence to the Strait of Singapore, taking advantage of the regular tides and the land and sea breezes which prevail during settled weather in this

This route is generally adopted by ships from Siam, and sometimes from Saigon ; but the passage to the eastward of the Great Natuna is considered the best, particularly for large vessels.

Vessels leaving Cape St. James should take every advantage of the North and N.E. winds, which frequently blow at night, and in some parts of the day, within a short distance of the coast, by running to the south-westward, until the regular monsoon breaks them ofiP to the S.E. These- local winds often carry ships 40 or 50 miles to the south-westward of Pulo Condore without any interruption.

While standing over to the S.E. the full strength of the north-easterly current will be met with about the Charlotte Bank ; it gradually decreases and becomes slightly favourable when the Great Natuna is brought to bear S.W. Hereabouts S.E. and easterly winds will generally be met with, and smart sailing ships frequently pass through the channel between Subi and Low Island, and fetch direct into Singapore Strait.

Strong westerly winds with rain frequently happen during the early part of this monsoon, and from this cause or by fetching 2° or 3° to the eastward of the Great Natuna with scant southerly winds alter leaving the Cambodia coast, dull sailing vessels have often made the northern part of Borneo about the meridian of Cape Sirik. When this is the case, make for the Api passage, keeping the N.W. coast of Borneo aboard from Tahjong Datu until the Boerong Islands are reached. f This will be accomplished without

* The inside chanDel, extending from Pulo Sibu to Siribuat, and formed by a chain of islands and rocks parallel to the main, is a good and safe one, having but few hidden dangers, and good anchorage all the way through.

t Many vessels, through leaving the coast of Borneo too soon, have fetched no higher than Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan.

difficulty, for strong land and sea breezes prevail, and the current is weaker near the coast.

The current in the offing runs strong to the northward and through the Api passage. Ships coming through this passage should never shoal their water to less than 12 or 14 fathoms between Tanjong Datu and Tanjong Api, and never pass them nearer than 2 or 3 miles, but should be ready to anchor in it off any other part of the coast, as the tides are greatly influenced by the currents, which often change without warning.

Leaving the Boerong Islands, pass either northward or southward of the Tambelan group. Should the wind be scant from the S.W. after leaving these islands, steer as high as possible, and endeavour to make Pulo Pan- tang, off the East side of Bintang Island. ( Captain Loftus.)

Captain Mc Konzie gives the following remarks on this passage : - The passage to Singapore, &c., through Balli and Lombok, and the Eastern Straits, late in the S.E. monsoon is often tediuus, as the S.E. currents begin to prevail in October, and light winds, which frequently haul to West and N.W. after passing Pulo Mancap After leaving the Straits of Lombok or Balli, easterly winds will carry you past Pulo Mancap. The best track thus far will be between Pondy and Gallon (safe in the night time), and then to the"southward of Lubeck, going well to the westward of the Mancap Shoal, and just giving the Discovery Bank, and other dangers on the West side of the passage, a fair berth. Steer for the Eastern Montaran Island, passing between it and the next westerly one, the passage is quite clear ; steer then to the W.N.W. along the coast of Billiton. It is best not to go inside the Montaran Shoals, as the wind there at that time of year is seldom more westerly than S. W., consequently a vessel will lie up high enough, from the East Montaran, to pass South of Pulo Dogan, Taya, and Sinkep (if possible to weather the last), if not the Straits of Dasse are quite safe, and quickly passed through with the tide.

After passing through either of these straits, run for Singapore by Durion

As to beating down the Carimata against the S.E. monsoon, I believe the best plan is to go through Rhio Strait, then stretch over to the Borneo coast, and work down it close in, anchoring for the tides. From Rendezvous Island make for the Java shore, and if bound easterly work along it. This passage is easily made to Sourabaya in tilteen to twenty days. But it is beating up

from Balli, Lombok, or the East end of Java, in the West monsoon, that requires some remarks ; and for vessels usually deeply loaded with rice, it is a difficult thing to beat up against a strong monsoon and lee current. Two routes have been generally adopted, one to the southward of Java, and the other by beating up the Carimata. By both these routes I have known some vessels get to Singapore in forty days, and some have been fifty, sixty, and eighty days. I should say sixty was an average passage from Balli or Lom- bok ; and the vessel much strained, sails worn, and cargo probably more or less damaged. I should, therefore, confidently recommend an eastern route, which I have no doubt has been by this time followed by the commanders of Balli vessels, at my suggestion. This is, to go through the Molucca, or even Gillolo passage, and then with the North and N.E. winds through the straits of Balabac into the China Sea, and thence to Singapore. A fair wind would be secured all the way, and the passage made in twenty-five or thirty days, with ease and comfort to the vessel. This may seem a very circuitous track, yet I am certain that it is the quickest way to Singapore. And any one wha had once tried either of the other routes would find the difference, when comparing with the eastern route, the harassing work from Pulo to Singa- pore, and the strong rush of current from the China Sea that begins so early as October before the N.E. monsoon has set in.

The passages hitherto described are those which are entered by the Straits of Malacca or Sunda, the two principal highways into the China Sea. But during the adverse N.E. monsoon it may be thought preferable to take one of the channels eadward of Borneo, and thus avoid the wear and tear of beating up the China Sea in the teeth of the monsoon. In this case, the former universal practice was to follow one of the eastern straits, passing to the East of Borneo, and taking the Strait of Macassar, which leads into the Celebes Sea, from thence, according to circumstances, from this sea proceed- ing North, and passing East or West of the Philippines. A vessel can also, in this season, take Pitts passage to the East of the Celebes, crossing the Moluccas, and entering the Pacific Ocean by Pitts Strait, Dampier Passage, or that of Gilolo, then keep to the eastward of the Philippines, entering the China Sea by the Strait of Formosa.

Thus, in a general way, it may be taken as a rule, that when the mon- soon is favourable in the China Sea, ships must pass to the West of Borneo, but with a contrary monsoon must pass to the East of that island.

October and November are considered the two most favourable months in which to pass the Strait of Macassar quickly. This is the first of the eastern routes. In the other months it is more advantageous to take Pitts Passage^ especially from the middle of December to February.

On arriving at the eastern straits in the latter part of January or in February, the Strait of Lombok is generally taken, and generally in passing it, cross the channel East of Banditti Island. You can also round this island to the West, but the channel is very narrow. The channel between Lombok and Banditti Island is generally preferred, and then the East coast of this strait is soon reached. From there ships pass to the strait of Ma- cassar, by passing to the East of Hastings Island and Little Pulo Laut, then the coast of Celebes must be passed in order to enter the strait of Macassar. If instead of taking Lombok Strait that of Balli is chosen, with the intention of passing in the Macassar Strait, ships return to the North by passing by the channel between Pondy and Gallon Islands ; then round to the West at a good distance from the islands and banks of Kalkoon, and pass the little island of Pulo Laut on whichever side seems best.

On coming from Alias Strait a vessel would steer for Hastings Island, and pass East of it, the same as if coming from Lombok Strait. On arriving from Sapy Strait during the months of September and October, a ship would, according to the prevailing winds, pass to the East or West of the Postilions, and proceed to the North between Tanakeke and the Tongu Islands ; then pass at a good distance the isles and banks of Spermonde, which are N.W. of Macassar Bay, and enter the strait and keep on the Celebes coast to pass through. A vessel going out of the strait in March or April off Cape Donda must cross the sea of Celebes, and steer for the ex- treme East of Bassilan.

A vessel making for the channel between Basilan and the West point of Mindanao, must take care to keep well to the East, if the winds will permit, so that she may not be drifted among the Sooloo Islands by the westerly currents. If she gets to leeward of them, she will find good channels be- tween the isles situated to the West of Sooloo ; and then crossing the sea of Mindoro, keep near the coast of the Philippines (Mindanao, Negros, Panay, Mindoro, and Luzon). At the opening of the channel between Mindanao and Negros, and also between Panay and Mindoro, strong winds from the N.E. and westerly currents are generally encountered. A ship must guard against these currents in passing from one island to another, so as not to be set to leeward.

If a ship leaves Basilan Strait with steady winds from S.W. and South, she may steer directly for Point Naso, or keep rather to the East of its meridian ; but if the winds are variable or uncertain, she should keep close to Mindanao till Point Galera is reached, and then cross to Naso Point, tak- ing care to keep near Negro Point in crossing from one point to another.

From Naso Point steer North along the coast West of the island of Panay, taking every precaution against the dangers which lie to the West of this coast. Then passing the islands lying near the S.W. point of Mindoro, she will enter the channel either East or West of them and the Apo Bank.

With easterly winds in entering the eastern channel, keep 2 or 3 leagues from the coast of Mindoro ; but with a westerly wind, take care not to go more than 9 or 10 milts from the coast until you are North of the Apo Banks, thus clearing the Strait of Mindoro ; and after having doubled the promontory ot Calavite, and passed Luban and Goat Island, you must fol- low the coast of Luzon as far as Cape Bolinao. Having reached this cape, you may be pretty sure of passing East of the Pratas and reaching Macao. However, it is more prudent to steer North as far as Cape Bojeador before crossing for the coast of China. Also, at this season, a vessel may enter the Pacific Ocean by passing South of Mindanao, when the sea of Celebes has been reached. For which, if the wind permit, steer direct for the Serangani Islands, passing between them and Mindanao, or else South of the former. From thence pass between the Meangis and Tulour Isles, in order to double the North cape of Morty Island with the wind at N.E. If any difficulty arise in taking this route, the channel between the Tulour and Sangir Islands may be adopted.

But after having proceeded from the Strait of Macassar, and passed be- tween Siao and Tagolanda, or one of the neighbouring Sangir Channels, steer to the East, so as to double the North cape of Morty. For the same reason, ships that have passed South of Siao must run N.E. if the wind will permit. When she has entered the Pacific Ocean from the Philippine Islands, passing to the West of the Pelew Islands, afterwards sail towards the North, so as to enter the China Sea by the Formosa Channel.

Pitt Channel, which leads, as has been already stated, into the Pacific Ocean by either Pitt, Gilolo, or Dampier Channels, is preferable to the Macassar Strait during the months of December, January, and February. On arriving, at this season, at the Strait of Sunda, on the way from Bengal, or at the eastern straits on the way from the Cape of Good Hope, I would adopt this channel when bound to China. This is the Second Eastern Route.

If, as often happens, a ship, in coming from the Bay of Bengal, passes through the Strait of Sunda instead of along the South coast of Java, in going out of this strait she should pass North of the Thousand Isles, and then steer to the East, leaving the Watcher Isle to the North, on her way to the Strait of Salayer. In case of touching at Batavia, after having passed Edam Island on leaving this port, she would steer so as to leave Burakin Island to the North, and after having passed it, would steer for Salayer Strait. With a N.W. wind the best course through this strait is to pass South of Mansfield Shoal. At night, or when the wind is not steady, it is better to keep to the North of it, along the coast of Celebes. From the Strait of Salayer make for Bouton Strait ; or, if the wind is West, it would be better to pass South of this island, keeping the S.W. point well on board, with the view of avoiding the rocks off it to the southward of Tonkan Bessy. You then pass along the eastern coast of Bouton Island, and having reached the N.E. end

of it, if the wind is fresh from N.W., steer North from the island of Waigiou, and from thence for the Xulla Bessy Island. This is an indispensable pre- caution for slow sailing vessels in December and the early part of January, because about this period the wind becomes variable, and veers to N.N.W., causing strong southern currents. The winds and currents in Eitt Channel are very variable, and it may be crossed almost anywhere. It is prudent, however, when northerly winds prevail, to keep the weather shore.

In the case of a vessel falling to leeward of the N."W. point of Bouro Island, every exertion should be made to pass it quickly. Instead of work- ing to windward to do this, it is better to run southward of the island, and pass into Eitt Strait to the eastward of it. During the N.W. monsoon vessels which leave Amboyna make to the northward along the East coast of Bouro, where the wind is variable, and squalls come from off the land. Strong currents are rare, and are sometimes favourable for the run north- wards ; while beyond Manipa and the channel which separates it from Ceram, southerly currents prevail in this season. Having reached Eitt Eassage by the foregoing routes, a vessel will be guided by the directions hereafter given.

A vessel wishing to pas8 through. Eitt Strait should take either the strait of Bally, Lombok, Allass, or Sapy, and make for that of Salayer on leaving them ; crossing the eastern part of the Java Sea, afterwards steer for Eitt Channel. In coming from the Cape of Good Hope the Ombay Strait is pre- ferable, it being the most direct and more open than those farther West, and the winds being generally less variable there.

In making for Ombay Strait, pass either North or South of Sandalwood Island ; but it is better to pass South of it, and then between Ombay and Timor, and after having steered to the eastern extremity of the first of these islands, then steer North, keeping to windward, so as to pass West of Bouro Island ; but if this is impracticable, pass to eastward of this island, between it and Manipa, and then take the Eitt Channel. After having entered Eitt Channel steer East, passing between Xulla Bessy and Bouro ; but in case you should pass to the West of this island, if no current be found, then steer direct through Eitt Strait ; if the current sets northward, keep off the islands which border the northern side of this strait.

When near the meridian of the East point of Oby Major, and wishing to take Dampier Strait, keep on to eastward. This strait seems favourable for good sailing vessels, especially in January and February, when N.E. winds are getting more easterly. In March, when the N.E. winds become weaker, the Strait of Gilolo is preferable for entering the Facific Ocean.

This last strait is wider, and a ship can work both night and day in it, and the currents are seldom very strong. On leaving Eitt Strait, and also that of Dampier, you must take great care not to be drifted on the North coast of New Guinea, and should therefore contrive to round Eoint Eigot

close, looking out sharply for Buccleugh Bank, whicli lies to the East of the East coast of Waigiou.

Pitt Strait should only be taken when it cannot be avoided. In this case, a ship should keep in the middle of the channel to avoid being set to either side by the tides, and should therefore make short boards, not approaching either shore, and should try to make Jackson Isle, and pass 5 miles to north- ward of it. When a ship has passed the reef, which lies to the northern extremity of Batanta Island, she must steer northward for Point Pigot.

To enter Dampier Strait on passing the meridian of the East point of Oby Major, steer East, to pass between the Canary Isles and Pulo Popo. Some- times vessels pass between the Bou Islands and Pulo Popo. This last chan- nel is advantageous with the winds from the N.W., and then run for Fisher Island and Mabo Cape, and from thence pass between Pigeon Island and Foul Island, always keeping a good lookout for the dangers which exist on the North shore of Dampier Strait. In coming out keep nearer Pigeon Isle than Foul Island, and steer so as to sight Pigot Point, so as not to be horsed on to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly swell which prevails in the oflB.ng. Vessels should always carefully avoid the Buccleugh Bank. The tides are very strong in Dampier Strait, and the currents very irregular, their rate varying from 1 to 5 miles an hour. In the height of the N.W. monsoon, in the narrow part of the strait between Pigeon Isle and Foul Isle, the ebb at the time of the spring tides runs 4 or 5 knots to the E.N.E. for six or eight hours, and between 1 and 3 miles in neaps. The flood sets S.W. for three or four hours, but is weak. During the height of the S.E. monsoon in this part, the flood runs to the West for eight or ten hoiu-s at a time, and turns successively to W.S.W., S.W., and S.W. by S. ; it then attains its greatest velocity, which at springs sometimes exceeds 5 miles an hour, and is reduced to 4 miles an hour in neaps. The ebb at this season runs to E.N.E. or N.E. ; it is not strong or of long duration.

On leaving Dampier Strait, when a ship is in the Pacific Ocean, she should run down her easting quickly, keeping in a low latitude, or between the parallels of 1° 30' and 3° N., which she can easily do. Sometimes even in December and January easterly currents are frequently found in that track, being that eastward counter current on the equator which has been spoken of in the chapter on this subject. She will thus be enabled con- veniently to pass either East or West of the Pelew Isles, but this depends up'in the sailing powers of the ship, and the strength of the N.E. monsoon. A vessel must not go too far to eastward, for fear of falling in with the islands of Goulou and Guap, near which, in November and December, heavy squalls from the westward are encountered. From the Pelew Islands, steer for the Bashee Islands, allowing for the westerly currents, which run at a rate of 12 or 15 miles a day. From December to the middle of February it is most prudent to pass to the East of the Pelew Islands.

Should a vessel leave Dampier Strait towards the end of the N.E. mon- soon, she should not run far East into the Pacitic Ocean. At the end of February and in March ships can pass to the West of the Pelew Islands, as the winds at this time often vary and shift to E.N.E. When the North part of Luzon is reached the China Sea can be entered by either of the great routes, or the channel of Balingtang, or any of the good channels formed by the Bashee Islands and the Babuyanes. However, with the winds from the N.E., and at the commencement of the monsoon, it is necessary to pass to the North of the Bashee Islands, and either North or South of the Cambrian and Gadd Recks. The South point of Formosa is thus approached, and it is best with daylight and the weather fine to pass between this point and the Vele Rete Rock. During the night, or in bad weather, if prevented from taking this route, a vessel should pass to the North of the Bashee Islands, keeping close to them. Whichever may be the channel by which she enters the China sea, a course should be adopted to sight, if possible, Ty-Sing- Cham, or Pedro Blanco, and enter the Canton River by the Lema

The Strait of Gilolo, the third which connects Pitt Passage with the Pacific Ocean, is divided into two parts by the island of Geby, and the part between this island and that of Gilolo takes the name of Gilolo Strait. That part between Geby and Waigiou has been called the Bougainville Strait, as that ofiicer passed through it in 1772. All the channels leading from Pitt Channel to the Strait of Gilolo are free from danger ; but during the N.W. monsoon that between Pulo Gass and Kakik Island is preferable, as being the widest ; for the other broad channel between Pulo Pisang and the Bou Islands is too much to leeward at this season. To enter the Gilolo Strait, passing, as we have already said, between Pulo Gass and Kakik, sail closely roimd the southern point of the first of these islands, so as not to get to the eastward of the channel by the current which often prevails there. After having passed Pulo Gass to eastward or westward, according to the channel taken, continue on between Cape Tabo and Geby Island ; and if at night, give a good berth to the Fairway Bank and Widda Island ; however, it is prudent, if the wind is light, to keep as close as possible to the islands on the West coast of the strait, on account of the N.E. and easterly currents. Should the winds be contrary, no time should be lost in trying to pass North of Geby ; afterwards, passing South between this island and Gagy, and entering the Pacific by one of the channels near Syang. However, when it can be done, the West channel between the coast of Gilolo and the Shampi Isles, or one of those comprised between these islands and Syang is prefer- able, as with a northerly wind a ship would be able to pass to windward of the Aiou and Asia Islands. Should there be any difficulty in passing to the West of Asia Isles, the channel, which is formed by them and Aiou, can be

adopted, or even between this latter and the North coast of Waigiou. Having gained the Pacific Ocean, a vessel should endeavour, as soon as possible, to make her easting in the zone comprised between the parallels of must not pass North of the parallel 3° N., and she will thus attain the latter part of the route which we have previously indicated from Dampier Strait to the Ciiina Sea.

The foregoiug remarks refer chiefly to those routes through the Archi- pelago which lead to the different por';s for vessels bound from Europe or India. The reverse, or homeward voyage, is generally subject to the same influences, and requires the same consideration, in reference to the seasons, that is called for in the outward voyage.

As a first principle it may be stated that a vessel bound to an Atlantic port should endeavour to gain the S.E. trade wind as soon as possible, by which she may gain the coast of Africa, Mauritius, or Madagascar, and thence proceed roiind the Cape of Good Hope. This portion of the subject and that relating to the passage from the Strait of Sunda to Aden is detailed

A vessel bound to the Bay of Bengal should take the readiest course for the straits of Singapore and Malacca, and thence as directed in the Indian

These remarks refer to both monsoons. The best way of reaching the Strait of Malacca, or the Southern Indian Ocean, necessarily requires a difi'erent route in the opposite seasons. For the China Sea and the Strait of Sunda this reverse voyage has been considered in former pages ; but a few remarks from Capt. Kerhallet may be here appended.

When a ship leaves China during the N.E. monsoon for Europe or India, she should make for the Straits of Banka and Gaspar, or for that of Singa- pore. In March and April the outer route is the quickest by the Macclesfield Bank. She ought, during these two months, to keep out to sea as far as the latitude of Pulo Sapata, or take the route proposed by Capt. Stephens down the West coast of Luzon, Palawan, and Borneo, as described in a foot-note

On the contrary, during the other months than March and April, a vessel should take the inner channel, which is comprised between Hainan and the Paracel Islands, when she would without difficulty reach the Straits of Sin- gapore, Banka, and Gaspar. From these two latter a course should be steered for the strait of Sunda. On leaving this strait the parallel of 10° N. should be crossed in 100° E. longitude, and then shape a direct course for the South point of Madagascar, as is described in the Directions for the Indian Ocean. This route crosses the area of the course of hurricanes ; con- sequently they are often encountered by vessels from the eastern seas.

The In'xer Route is the most direct for reaching the straits leading from the China Sea ; it has also this advantage, that vessels have the wind aft as soon as the Great Ladrone has been passed. A ship taking this route should steer from the Great Ladrone, so as to pass near the islands of Taya and Paracels at a convenient distance to the West. It is estimated that the current sets westward at the rate of 15 or 20 miles a day, for the currents are strong near the coast of China, although it may not be the case out at sea. If it should be observed that the ship is drifted much towards the West, she must shape her course to allow for it, until she has reached the parallel of 17° W., and entered the channel between the Paracels and Cochin China. Having reached the parallel indicated, and the meridian of 106°, a course should be steered so as to sight Cape Yarela, or the Pagoda. With clear weather and an E.N.E. or N.E. wind, a ship may sight Pulo Canton (also called Callao Kay) or the coast situated South of this island, and then keep a moderate distance from the shore ; if the weather be cloudy, and the wind has a tendency to become easterly, it would be more prudent not to approach the coast till she is in the latitude of Cape Varela, nor enter the Bay of Phouyin to the North of this cape.

In case the conical mountain be visible on the North shore of this bay, it will indicate the position of the cape, for as night approaches, the pagoda on the height, which commands it, is obscured by clouds. Having passed to the South of the parallel of 15° N., it will be found that the current sets pensable to make for Cape Varela when land has not been seen to the North of this point, from whence the coast may be kept at a distance of 12 or 15 miles. When a ship is East of Cape Varela, distant about 4 or 5 miles, she can steer along the shore by day ; but at night must be careful to avoid Pyramid Isle, and those near to it. If the night be fine, she can sight these islands, as they may be made out at a few miles distant. Water Islands should then be steered for, which are 21 miles to the southward, and can also be seen. When these islands are reached, if the land is more than 12 miles off, it will be necessary to approach it, to sight the mountain of False Cape Varela, which can be distinguished among the high lands of the coast by its elevation and gentle slope towards the sea.

In order to keep inshore and pass to the West of the Dutchman Bank, a vessel should cross Padaran Bay as soon as she is abreast of the high lands of Cape Varela. This is necessary, because the currents in this part take a S.S.E. direction, and it is very difficult for ships out at sea to approach this coast. When a vessel is in a good position for crossing the bay, the sound- ings will be found to be 40 and 50 fathoms. Then, during the night, Cape Padaran should be made on the starboard bow. On recognizing this cape, great care should be taken, as it is difficult to distinguish it from the high

lands in the bay. On having sighted Cape Padaran, it may be passed at about 3 or 6 miles ; and Pulo Ceicir may be doubled at the same distance on keeping this island to the West. In case ships are only 1 or 2 miles from the cape, a course should be steered to pass at a convenient distance from Pulo Ceicir. When this island is doubled in the day, at 4, 6, or 6 miles to sea- ward, it should be brought to bear N.N.E. ^ N. before being lost sight of from the deck, and then steering 18 or 21 miles between W.S.W. and S.W. by W., as most convenient, will pass West of Dutchman Bank, when a South course may be steered for Pulo Aor.

This route is not dangerous when the night is clear enough to admit of distinguishing the cavern of Padaran. In this case, when a ship is 3, 4, or 5 miles from the cape, she must take the most convenient route till she sights the Cavern ; and when it bears N. by E.,,she will be off Pulo Ceicir. If in this case soundings are found at 11 or 20 fathoms, she should stand off from it a little, because the island is too low to be seen at night, and in thia part of the channel the soundings are too irregular to serve as a guide. The Cavern bearing N. 16° E., Pulo Ceii ir is in the same direction ; and by man Bank may be passed on the West, and then steer for Pulo Aor. If the night should be dark when near Padaran, and the Cavern not to be distinguished, the vessel must be kept between South and West till she is about 12 or 13 leagues from the cape, and in this case it is best not to ap- proach the coast or Pulo Ceicir with less than 6 fathoms of water, and Dutchman Bank should not be approached in less than 18 or 20 fathoms. Between the western edge of this bank and the eastern edge of Britto Shoal, which is nearest to it, there is a distance of 14 or 15 leagues, between which there is a large channel, which may be taken in the night. A ship should keep in soundings of 15 or 16 fathoms, until she is 5 or 6 leagues more to the South of Pulo Ceicir ; and when she is 13 leagues to the S.W. of Cape Padaran it will be best to run again between the South and West to the dis- tance of 2 or 3 leagues, so as to give a wide berth to the Holland Bank. A vessel should not take more than 20 fathoms depth, till she has passed thia bank, nor less than 16 fathoms when she is near Britto Bank, if she is a little to the West.

In taking the route between these two banks the soundings will be found to vary between 10 and 11 fathoms; and when the western part of the Holland Bank is passed a vessel should keep in 10 or 11 fathoms, and steer towards Pulo Aor. The route between Pulo Ceicer and Holland Bank cannot be taken in the night, except by captains who are well acquainted with these parts, consequently, often while waiting for days, a vessel is obliged to lay off Cape Varela. Besides the loss of time which is thus occasioned, a ship has to contend with a heavy sea, when the breeze is strong ; and for this reason mariners generally preter passing through the passage outside

Pulo Ceicir and Pulo Sapata. When a vessel finds herself near Ealse Cape Varela at nightfall, with a wind too strong to haul up to, or bad weather, and not wishing on account of the darkness to pass between Holland Bank and Pulo Cecir de Mer, she should steer a course to the East of Pulo Cecir de Mer, and then outside Pulo Sapata the next morning. She may run far enough out to sea if the weather is gloomy, after passing a good distance from these isles. When the wind is strong the currents run to the S. W. and W.S.W. with great rapidity, and sometimes towards Pulo Sapata. A ship would then be obliged to pass the night in the narrow channel between this island and the Little Catwik.

In the day, in fine weather, a ship may keep as near as she likes to Pulo Cecir de Mer, and pass between Pulo Sapata and the Large Catwik ; she can also pass between the two Catwicks, only it must be remembered that the Paix Rock is in the channel formed by these two islands ; from there she may steer direct for Pulo Aor. On arriving at Pulo Timoan during a fog, you must keep in soundings of 28 or 30 fathoms, afterwards passing East of this island for Pulo Aor. As these islands are often concealed in the fog, great care must be taken to avoid them, and attend to the reckoning, especially during the night. Near the Anambas, and to the North of them, a vessel generally has 36 to 44 fathoms. When she is between 5° 30' and 6° N., these depths decrease in the western part of the channel, and 26 to 28 fathoms on the meridian of Pulo Timoan. Having passed East of Pulo Aor at a distance of 2, 3, or 4 leagues, bound to the Strait of Banca, steer to the eastward of South, according to the wind and prevailing currents, and pass outside the Geldria Bank, which she may avoid by keep- ing in a depth of not less than 10 or 11 fathoms when between the parallels be steered so as to cross the equator, and pass 4 or 5 leagues from the East point of Lingin, if the current will admit. In all cases a vessel should guard against westerly currents, which are sometimes encountered in these

Outer Eoute. - When the outer channel is adopted in coming from China towards Pulo Aor, a vessel ought to pass at a short distance West of the La- drones and neighbouring islands. In general, strong winds and a heavy sea with strong currents are found on leaving Great Ladrone, and a vessel should steer to eastward of South for the Macclesfield Bank ; and when the winds are moderate she should endeavour to reach the East part of it, When 20 leagues East of the meridian of the Great Ladrone, and a vessel has difiiculty in obtaining soundings, she may consider herself East of the Macclesfield Bank. When a vessel has adopted the outer route in November and De- cember, with strong winds and no observations for several days, she should endeavour to strike soundings on the Macclesfield Bank ; but if she is certain of her position, these may be neglected, because from East to West on the

bank being very wide, and the soundings being very irregular, the depth can only be an uncertain guide as to her real position. On leaving the Macclesfield Bank, she should steer for Pulo Sapata, and should have sound- ings on that bank, and it being on the same parallel it would be well for her to shape her course for that of Pulo Sapata. If she should not sight this island, she should steer West, so as to obtain soundings in 32 or 37 fathoms. With thick weather, when ships are uncertain of their position, it would be dangerous to run straight for Pulo Sapata and round the island in the night, as it is difiieult to distinguish. As a general rule, they should keep well to the East of Pulo Sapata until on the parallel of 10° N., and by standing West by South to obtain soundings. Some captains, on leaving the Mac- clesfield Bank, run as far as the parallel of Pulo Sapata, keeping well off to the eastward of the island ; this can be done in March, April, or May. How- ever, in adopting this route care must be taken to allow for the S.E. currents which might set a ship on the banks to the E.N.E. and East of Pulo Sapata. When a vessel has reached the parallel of 10° N., she would steer between West and South until soundings are found in 30 fathoms ; then steer a course for Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan. If she is bound for the Strait of Singapore, to avoid the Charlotte Bank, the soundings should not be more than 26 or 28 fathoms when in latitude 7° 6' N. In March and April vessels returning to Europe should keep well to the eastward, so as to pass between the Natunas and Anambas Islands, and take the Strait of G-aspar.

Further remarks on these passages have been given on pp. 62 and 85, as has been alluded to.

A more full description of the passages between Australia and China will be found in our Directory for the South Pacific Ocean. As described by Captain Allen, harbour-master at Newcastle, N.S.W., there were four prin- Eastern Poute, passing eastward of New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, and Santa Cruz Groups, and crossing the equator in 166° E. 2. The Middle Route, westward of New Caledonia, and between the Santa Cruz and Solo- mon Islands, crossing the equator in 159° E. 3. The Western Route, N.E. from Newcastle to the 157° meridian, thence North on that meridian Torres Strait Route, also from Newcastle, N.E. to the 157th meridian, then North on that meridian to the latitude of the Mellish Reef, and N. W. for Bligh's entrance to Torres Strait. When through Torres Strait the route is between the Tenimber and Arrou Islands, and by the passage between Ceram and Bouro into the Molucca Channel, then round the N.E. end of

Celebes Island into the Celebes Sea, through the Basilan Channel into the Sulu Sea, and through Mindoro Strait into the China Sea. The distance from Nevvcastle to Hong Kong by this route is 5,300 miles, and it has been taken by one ship, between the years 1869 and 1873, the England, which made the passage in 41 days, in the month of July. Some further remarks as to the best route through the Archipelago will be found below.

Much depends on the sailing qualities of the vessel, but as a general rule, ships leaving Australia in the months of January, February, or March, for China or Japan, should adopt the Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 40 days ; leaving in April, May, or June, they should adopt the Western Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 36 days ; leaving in July, August, or September, they should, if they can reach Torres Strait before the end of August, take that route ; and if not, either the Western or Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage via Torres Strait in 40 days, and by the other routes in 55 days ; and, finally, ships leaving in October, November, and December, should adopt the Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 44 days.

Eeom Sydney to Yedo. - Vessels bound from Sydney to Japan during same course as those bound for Hong Kong ; from that position a course should be shaped to pass to the northward of the Mariana Islands and to the south-westward of the Volcano Islands, after passing which, steer to make 0 Sima lights, remembering that the ship must pass the strength of the Kuro Siwo, and wiU, when in its stream, be set to the north-eastward

North Coast of Australia to China. - The following remarks are by Mr. Greorge Windsor Earl : -

A ship proceeding from the North coast of Australia to China, from April to September, when the S.E. monsoon prevails to the southward, and the S.W. monsoon to the northward of the equator, should pass to the southward of Timor and Sandalwood Island, and through the straits of Alias or Lom- bok into the Java Sea ; and from thence through the Carimata Passage, and up the China Sea to Canton, by which course she will have a stronger mon- soon and a clearer sea than by passing to the northward of Timor, and through the Flores Sea ; or than by running at once to the northward, through the Molucca Passages. By this latter route, instead of a fair and steady wind all the voyage, difficulty would be experienced in passing be- tween Borneo and Palawan into the China Sea, from the variable winds, and from the numerous shoals which lie to the westward of the Balabak Passage. The passage by the North of Palawan to China is also often attended with difficulty during the S.W. monsoon ; and an additional inconvenience of these routes is, that the navigation of the Molucca Sea will be performed during the bad monsoon.

Ships returning from China to the North coast of Australia during this season should pursue the track frequently adopted by ships bound to Europe, namely, by standing to the eastward, round the North end of the Philippines into the Pacific, and so to the southward towards New Guinea. When past the parallel of 5° N., S.E. and S.S.E. winds, with a strong current to the westward, will probably be felt, by which she may easily pass through Dam- pier Strait, or the Gilolo Passage, into the Molucca Sea. She may then pass between Coram and Bouro, and across the Banda Sea to Wetta, when no difficulty will be found in getting to the eastward along the North side of the Serwatty Islands, as the current there sets to the eastward during the S.E. monsoon. When off Baba, she may stand to the southward for the coast of Australia, and if she should fall to leeward of her port, she may easily gain her easting by taking advantage of the land and sea breezes.

Again, if a vessel is bound from the North coast of Australia to China from October to March, when the western monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator, and the N.E. monsoon in the China Sea, she should, on leav- ing the coast, keep close to the wind, and as the monsoon often blows 8.W. and even S.S.W. between Australia and Timor, she may be enabled to pass between Timor and the Serwatty Islands and through Pitt Passage into the Pacific, and thus pursue the eastern route to China adopted by ships at this season. If unable to get far enough to windward to pass between Ceram and Bouro, she may run at once to the northward, between Ceram and Ceram Laut, and from thence into the Pacific by Pitt or Damj)ier Straits. The only difficulty that an indifferent ship would be likely to encounter in this route would be on the passage between Ceram Laut and the N.W. end of New Guinea, where the winds would probably be from the N.W. ; but even then she would have the advantage of fine weather. The route from the North coast of Australia, through the Flores and Java Seas, and up the China Sea to Canton, would be impracticable at this season, even for a fast sailing vessel, as she would have a dead beat and a lee current the whole way.

A ship returning from China during this season may steer a direct course through the Mindoro Sea, and thence by the Molucca Passage, and past the N.E. end of Timor to the North coast of Australia.

A vessel bound to Singapore from April to September may pursue the route recommended above for ships bound to China at this season, namely to the southward of Timor, through the Straits of Alias and Cariraata, and thence through Rhio Strait to Singapore. The return voyage at that season, through the Java Sea, against the S.E. monsoon, would be tedious and diffi-

cult, even for a smart ship ; it would, tlierefore, be most advisable to run across the China Sea, and round the North end of Borneo, where she would probably have the advantage of S.AV. and S.S.W. winds, to traverse the Sooloo Archipelago. When near the Molucca Passage, though the winds will be mostly from the southward, yet but little difficulty will be experienced in passing through it ; and when through, the route to the North coast of Australia, already recommended for vessels returning from China at this season, should be adopted.

From October to March, the passage to Singapore through the Java Sea, against the N.W. monsoon, will be tedious and difficult ; a ship bound there during that season should therefore proceed to the northward by the Molucca or Gilolo Passage, where she would have the advantage of tine weather, and when to the northward of Grilolo the wind would probably come from the northward and eastward, with a westerly current, which would enable her to proceed round the North end of Borneo, and so with the N.E. monsoon, down the China Sea to Singapore. A ship returning at this season should pass through the Carimata Passage, through the Java and Floras Seas, and then to the southward of Wetta, and between Timor and the Serwatty Islands, to the North coast of Australia. It would be advisable to proceed through the Strait of Alias, and to the southward of Timor, as light airs and calms, with squalls from the South and S.S.W., are often encountered to the southward of the islands East of Java, while in the Flores Sea the N.W. monsoon blows steadily.

In the S.W. Monsoon.

The adverse voyage against the S.W. monsoon is best followed by adopt- ing one of the ensuing routes, according to the time when the southern part of China is left.

First Eastern Eoute. - Quitting Macao, or Hong Kong, in the end of April or beginning of May for the first Eastern Eoute, that is, the Mindoro Strait, a ship should run to the South as far as the Macclesfield Bank, if the wind allows, so as to reach the N.W. extreme of Mindoro without tacking in case of the wind shifting to S.W. From near the Macclesfield she should stand S.E., holding her wind if it is at all to the S.W., and should it not admit of her weathering the point of Calavite she should work along the coast of Lu^on with the variable winds, with which she will come up to the N.W. extremity of Mindoro.

The channel to the East of the Apo Bank should be chosen for crossing the Mindoro Strait, giving the Mindoro coast a berth of some miles, if the wind is variable ; a distance of 9 or 10 miles is necessary if the S.W. wind is

steady ; she will then pass the islands of Ambolon and Ilin at a distance of about 15 miles.

Should the wind allow, she may cross the Strait of Mindoro, passing West of the Apo Lank, in the Northumberland Channel, formed by this bank and the Calamianes. Then keep along the coast of Panay, working, if necessary, at some distance from this island, according to circumstances, and approach the island of Quiniluban, so as to pass the dry sandbank between this island and the coast of Panay.

Having reached Cape Naso, stand for the strait of Basilan, making it well to the southward and westward, when the wind is from these quarters : but steering direct for it if the wind is easterly. The S.W. extreme of Min- danao being gained, it will be better to take the strait of Basilan than those formed by the islands to the S.W., the former route being the shortest ; the Celebes Sea will thus be entered, and the ship will make fur the strait of

Instead of persevering in working at the entrance of the strait of Basilan against S.E. winds, it may be better to steer West, in order to pass West of the Sooloo Archipelago, between the point of Unsang and the island of Tawee-Tawee. There are two small islands close off the S.W. point of this island, bearing S.W., near Sibutu Island, and forming a good channel lead- ing direct to the Celebes Sea. This channel is safe, and easy of navigation both by night and day, four hours sufl&cing for passing from one sea to the other by it, while under similar circumstances it has sometimes occupied four days in going from one sea to the other by the strait of Basilan.

To leave the Celebes Sea, a vessel may either take the Macassar Strait or the Molucca Channel. Some navigators prefer the latter when the S.E. monsoon prevails North of the equator. In fact, it is difficult, without a tedious passage to windward, to reach Allass Strait from the strait of Ma- cassar ; while by taking the Molucca Channel the S.E. monsoon is found in a latitude sufficiently to the eastward to enable you to take whichever eastern channel is preferred. But vessels bound to Batavia, or the strait of Sunda, will find the strait of Macassar the best.

On leaving the strait of Basilan, if the easterly wind is well established, a vessel should steer so as to make Cape Donda to the S.S.E. or South ; but most generally, from the winds veering westward near the northern entrance of the strait, and the current setting eastward, it is prudent to keep as much as possible to the westward, in order to sight Point Kanneeungan. A ship off Cape Rivers is sometimes set to the eastward by the current along the coast of Celebes, and after fruitless contest with it, is sometimes obliged to take the Molucca Channel.

A ship having entered the strait of Macassar, should keep along the West coast of Celebes, passing East of the Little Paternosters, being very cautious, on account of the dangers North of the islands of Nusa Seras, in passing be-

tween them and the Grreat Pulo Laut. From thence she should steer for the strait of Alias, or one of the straits leading into the Indian Ocean. If bound to Batavia or the strait of Sun da from the strait of Macassar, she should steer South, if the wind will permit, and pass North of the Little Paternosters for the coast of Borneo, keeping along this coast and guarding against the dangers off it, as well inshore as to seaward. She would then enter the Java Sea, and reach Batavia or the strait of Sunda without diffi- culty ; and thence the Indian Ocean, and make for the Cape, or the western coast of India, by the routes before alluded to.

A ship taking this route, and meeting with contrary winds from the strait of Basilan, so as to be unable to reach the strait of Macassar, may take the Molucca Passage, and should then steer for the islands near the N.E. end of Celebes ; and passing between the islands of Banka and Bejaren, will clear the N.E. point of that island, and tlien steer to the southward, through the channel formed by Lissa Matula and Oby Major, which is the most fre- quented ; or, if the wind should not permit her reaching it, should take the Grreyhound Channel, between the islands Albion and Hammond (West of Xulla Tally abo).

When it is difficult to get to the southward in the Molucca Channel, dull sailing vessels might try to do so by keeping near the West coast of Gilolo ; thence they might enter the strait of Patientia, between GiLdo and Batchian, or the strait of Batchian, formed by the island of this name and Tawally and

However, a ship having reached the northern extremity of Gilolo or Morty in the height of the S. W. monsoon, should rather pass through the Grilolo Channel than that of the Moluccas, because it leads more directly to Pitt Channel, by which she can gain the eastern straits.

On leaving the Molucca Channel the Timor Strait or the strait of Ombay may be adopted if desirable. A ship should then pass close to Oby Mnjor, in order easily to round the East coast of Bourou, and so pass between this island and that of Manipa. She would then run to the southward into the Banda Sea, whei'e the winds are generally from E.S.E. ; on leaving Manipa she would endeavour to pass to the East of Ombay, and having crossed the channel formed by this island and Wetta, would follow the West coast of Timor, and enter the Indian Ocean between Semao and Savu. This is the shortest route during this season from Pitt Passage to the Indian Ocean.

Segokd Easterk' Route. - The second eastern route for the Cape or West coast of India from China, with the S.W. monsoon, is adopted from the middle of May to the end of July. This route is by taking the Pacific Ocean East of the Philippines, and passing through Pitt Passage. In August it is too late to adopt this route, and a ship obliged to leave the S.W. of China thou, should follow the coasts of Cochin China and Cambodia, as before di-

rected, unless from being a bad sailer it may be better to defer her departure until September.

With southerly or S.W. winds, a ship to pass East of the Philippinea should steer South in order to enter the Pacific Ocean with tacking. If the wind admits, the channel between the Bashees and Babuyanes should be adopted. Having reached the Pacific Ocean, S.W. winds at this season will generally be found, with easterly or N.E. currents ; she should then steer 8.E. in order to avoid Cape Engano and Lugon, tacking if necessary so aa to pass neither too far out nor too close, and taking care not to round the Pelew Islands farther to the eastward than is necessary.

The best route for making southing is then East of the isles of St, Andrew, Current, Mariere, Lord North, and the dangerous Helen Shoal. If the easterly drifts of the equatorial counter current are met they will not be strong as far as the Pelew Islands ; but between lat. 5° and 2° N. they set at the rate of 30 or 60 miles per day. This part must therefore be crossed as quickly as possible if the wind is West, as it frequently is ; and if the wind is light, a ship may be set far to the eastward by this current. But from the lat. of 2° N. to the equator a westerly current will be found, while near Dampier Strait it is again running to the eastward.

Having rounded to the eastward the island of St. Andrew, a ship should endeavour to keep between the meridians of 132° and 133° E., and when in 1° N. lat., if Dampier Strait is to be taken, she should make for Point

The strait of Gilolo being broader than that of Dampier, is often preferred for that reason, and it has few difficulties to overcome in reaching Pitt

When Gilolo Strait is to be adopted, on leaving the parallel of 2° N, a ship should steer for the Asia Isles, and round them on the North, if the wind permits, unless she passes between these islands and Ayou.

Having passed the islands of Eye and Syang, she would then go North or South of the island of Greby, and if the weather be not favourable, instead of the strait of Bougainville she might take that of Grilolo, which is North of it ; and in crossing this strait she should keep near the eastern coast, and enter Pitt Channel between Pulo Pisang and the Boo Isles, or else, accord- ing to circumstances, between Kekek and Pulo Gass.

A vessel entering Dampier Strait should round Point Pigot at a distance of 6 or 12 miles, and then steer for King William Island, keeping it West of her ; when about 9 miles from it she should steer for Pigeon Island, and pass 2 or 3 miles South of it ; she may then cross the strait, taking care to avoid any dangers in her way.

On leaving Dampier Strait she would go close round Cape Mabo, so as if posssible to pass South of Pulo Popa ; or she may pass North of this island

and enter Pitt Channel bet'veen the Boo Islands and Pulo Popa. In Pitt Channel she should keep mid-channel, borrowing rather on the southern than on the northern side. Having reached West of Pulo Popa, and cleared Pitt Passage, passing between Ceram and Bourou, the Indian Ocean may be entered by the strait of Ombay or one of those westward of it.

The strait of Ombay is the most direct route to the Indian Ocean in the S.E. monsoon. If intending to take the strait of Salayer, or those of Alias or Sapie, the N.W. part of Bourou should be gained, and thence the most northerly of the Toukan Bessy group should be rounded at 2 or 3 miles distance ; and from thence enter the strait of Salayer.

In pages 28 to 30, are given some remarks on the currents experienced in the China Sea ; and in pages 55 to 63 are directions for the various routes, according to the season, between Singapore and Hong Kong.

The following important notes are the result of the experience and obser- vation of Captain A. Polack, master of the Hamburgh barque Madeira, gained during thirty-five voyages up and down the China Sea, previous to November, 1867. They appeared in the Nautical Magazine for June, 1861, and are here given for the benefit of the mariner.

Although there is a fast and still increasing trade from China to Saigon, it is astonishing how very little this voyage up and down the China Sea against the monsoon is yet known and understood in general, for the greatest difference of arriving in China (as to time) exists in this little Saigon voyage of only about 1,100 miles distance. Ships which are acquainted with the voyage here make it in nineteen to twenty-three days, while the greater part not being well acquainted with it, require between thirty and forty-five days. A barque in 1865 took one hundred and ten days, and worse than all, another actually returned this year to Hong Kong, after having been out about sixtj' days, declaring it impossible to reach Saigon in the S. W. monsoon. As I have made now fifteen voyages from Hong Kong to Saigon and back, and traversed the South China seas up and down, and in all seasons of the year, thirty-five times, I hope you will hold me competent enough, and will allow me to give my brother sailors, who do not know the voyage, a little of my experience.

Leaving Hong Kong in the S.W. Monsoon, our first object ought to be to make southing, and try to reach the North Danger of the Palawan Shoals as soon as possible. But as the wind is most generally between S.S.E. and S.S.W. at starting, I nearly always stood W.S.W. and S.S.W. between Isle

Hainan and the Paracels even to the East coast of Cochin China, and worked along this coast as far as Cape Varela {not False Varela), always trying to be a good distance, say 40 miles oflE shore at noon, to stand in with the S.S.E. winds generally blowing in the aftf-rnoon, until 7 or 10 p.m. Then stand off with the wind, then veering a little off land, or about South and S.S.W. {solar winds). From Cape Varela I invariably stood to the south-eastward over to the Palawan Shoals, never thinking of going about, for here my greatest endeavour was to cross the Padaran stream of 40 to 70 miles a day to the N.E. as quickly as possible. I then worked along the

I worked from two to four days to the westward, until St. James bore N.W. by N., which I then generally reached in one or two days in one tack. In this track my longest voyage was twenty-three and my shortest nineteen days, at same time when other vessels took fifty and eighty-five days. In this route I generally had the current from Hong Kong (Taytang Channel) and Macao, to the South coast of Hainan from ten to twenty-four miles a day to the N.W. ; from there to the East coast of Cochin China the current varies between North, N.W., and West, from 15 to 25 miles a day, but on the West side of the Paracels an East current of 12 to 30 miles will be found. On the East coast of Cochin China it runs from 10 to 20 miles a day to the N.N.W. and N.N.E., but there is often no current at all. From Cape Varela to the shoals I generally had the first day when right in the Padaraa

On the shoals there is about 20' to the S.E., and sometimes to the South, long., there is little or no current, sometimes even a slight drain to the westward. But standing over to Cape St. James a strung N.N.E. and N.E. by N. current of 36 miles a day will be found, while South of St. James it runs E.N.E. along the coast from Pulo Obi to Cape Padaran.

Should the wind at starting from Hong Kong be from the S.W., stand down S.S.E. ; never think of going about till in 15° N., unless the wind should break off too much. In this track in the open sea, there is generally not over 20 miles a day of a N.E. current, especially after the strong E.N.E. China coast current, extending 60 to 75 miles South of Hong Kong, is

little current. I always give the preference to the inside track, for here the winds are more variable, the sea smoother, and getting the chance of a West or N.W. squall from land. Besides this, a vessel reaches the Palawan Shoals 60 or 80 miles farther West, and westing is very difficult to make

there, especially after July, when the S.W. monsoon blows from W.S.W. or West.

This voyage, as explained here, is quite plain and simple, but if asked, " Where were the other vessels who took from fifty to eighty-five days in their passage ?" There is but one general answer. They tried to round Cape Padaran. Here they were lying for forty consecutive days, sometimes with a dozen and more ships together. This year a barque took thirty-five days from Japan to Padaran, but sixty days from there to Cape St. James, running short of everything, and had to be provisioned by other vessels. They sometimes go as far as Sapata, but never thinking that, bound to St. stand W.N.W., intending to pass between Pulo Sapata amd Pulo Ceicer. But when making the land, they find themselves between Padaran and

I know several instances of this. Or that a ship made a N.N.E. course sailing W.N.W. Although some vessels did make Padaran, and made a good passage (assisted perhaps by a N.W. squall), they form an exception, and may not do the same again in ten more voyages. AVhereas the track along the shoals, and although about 300 miles longer, is pretty certain.

My short advice, therefore, is, go either East or West of the Paracels, and make the shoals of Palawan as soon as possible. A ship taking the inside route should work between the Cochin China coast and 40' off it, but should not remain there in the night, as there is seldom a land breeze, but much calm. Having reached the shoals as aforesaid, work along them, standing to 60 miles off. Never think of Padaran or Sapata, and do not leave the shoals unless in 8° or 7° N. lat., as stated before, or you will surely be dis-

Bound from Saigon to China in the N.E. Monsoon. - Stand out to the S.E. and tack, even if the wind should be from East 40' off the land. The wind will haul up to E.N.E. and N.E., then try to pass the S.W. current E., the current runs already to the East and E.N.E. AVorking along the shoals, between them and 60 miles off from lat. 9° N., as far as North Danger, about 75 miles off, will be right in the fair N.E. and northerly current (right against the wind), but I am inclined to believe that a ship should not go nearer the shoals than about 20 miles from them, because the northerly current extends not so far East, for I have often found there no current at all. From North Danger to about 119° E., an easterly current from about 10 to 40 miles will be found. But in the early part of October the current off the North Danger runs from 10 to 15 miles to the S.E.

Along the West coast of Lugonia the wind is from N.N.W. to N.E, and East, with fine weather and 15 to 24 miles current to the North, but from Bolina it blows generally heavy, with a high, short northerly sea. If the first puff off Bolina is passed, and 100 or 150 miles are made to the N.W., the wind and sea are getting more handy and regular, and change one or two points farther to the East. But the ship wants canvas here, and must be in good and sound condition, for the sea rises here in short and high pyramids, on account of the hitherto uninterrupted northerly current, assuming here a velocity of 52 miles a day to the N.W. by N. and N.W., and running oblique to the N.E. sea. My longest voyage in this track was twenty-two days, and my shortest nineteen days from Saigon to Hong Kong. In February and October, a ship should not go East of the Scarborough Shoal, for in Febru- ary it is not necessary, and in October there will be nothing but calms and a high northerly sea running.

This voyage against the N.E. monsoon is sometimes very easy, and done in less than nineteen days. But it is in general a difficult task, especially in November, December, and January, and requires a good ship and plenty of canvas on her, especially on the West side of the Palawan shoals, where the sea, running right against a North and N.E. current, is as high and short here as from Bolina to the Pratas. But many ships in this voyage commit a great error in working along the South coast of Cochin China and try to get out of Padaran, which is nearly impossible on account of the strong W.S.W. current and always very short sea.

After reaching Cape Bolina, and finding the above mentioned stiff gale and tremendous high cross sea, and thinking it blows a heavy gale all over to China, ships make a second mistake by creeping under the land again and waiting there sometimes for a fortnight, expecting better weather. And this is the same case with many ships South of Formosa when bound North along its East coast.

My advice, therefore, is stand boldly out, and remember that the current will assist you first with 50, and afterwards with 20 miles a day to the N.W. by N., as far as the Pratas. And at 60 miles from the China coast the wind will be about E.N.E., and sea moderating as you close the South China coast. But keep the first day from Cape Bolina good rap full, even if you head the first day to leeward of Hong Kong, and should a ship really fall to leeward of Taytang Channel, let her proceed in at the Ladrones, from which Hong Kong will be reached in one day. If bound to Swatow, Amoy, and the northern ports of China, work as far as Cape Bayadere, and then stand out N.W. or N.N.W., making long legs to the North, and short ones to the East, especially for the first 150 miles, where the strong N.N.W. current will be under your lee. South Formosa will generally be reached in three to four days, from whence to South Pescadores, and over to Swatow and Amoy, is plain sailing, and will be reached in one tack.

Bound to l^'ou-Chou-Foo and further North, ships have to pass round the South Cape of Formosa, and work to the northward East of the island, where the Kuro Si wo current will assist them 40 miles a day, decreasing to 20 miles as they advance to the northern boundary of the current in about 28° N. and 125° E. long., from where Shanghae is reached without diificulty. But always remember that the cold water current runs strong to the South on the East coast of China. Bound to Fou-Chou-Foo they may cross over from

A voyage up and down the China Sea with the monsoon presents no diffi- culty, but I would advise captains of ships to pass East of the Paracels, for in the S.W. monsoon the winds there are more steady and fresh than inside, or West of them, and a vessel has more sea room in case of a cyclone. After having passed to the West of Macclesfield Bank, steer a N. by W. or N. by W. ^ W. course, on account of a N.E. current, and the winds blowing often from W.S.W. and West. December and January, and in some years the latter half of November, are the only months in the N.E. monsoon that I would advise to pass inside the Paracels when bound South, but which ou^ht never to be done from February to the end of May on account of calms, and always lighter winds than in the open sea. I never went inside in these months, but gained on ships which did so, from eight days to a fortnight in the months of March, April, and May, bound South, as well as in the S.W. monsoon from June to September when bound North.

Every one who has perused the foregoing attentively will perceive that it is not the wind only that causes the long and troublesome passage, but that we have to consider the current as our greatest enemy. And as it has been my principal object from the beginning to make myself thoroughly acquainted with the subject, I beg leave to trouble you a little longer, and give you a slight illustration of my views about it, founded on the experience of my

Currents. - In the first place, I am positive when I assert that the whole current of the South China Sea is nothing but a large circular stream, in which the waters running from South have to pass North, in order to return down South again. Coming from the North through the Formosa Channel, and from the East by the Bashees, the first getting propelled by difi'erence of specific gravity, and accelerated by the N.E. monsoon, it rushes down to the S.W., without finding material obstruction, until met by Capes Varela and Padaran. Here its waters are turned oS" to the South, part of them or the northern branch runs W.S.W. along the Saigon coast to Pulo Obi, and crossing the Gulf of Siam to Malacca ; the main body, after having passed Padaran, resumes its course to the S.S.W., but the south-eastern part

give place to new waters of the great counter stream or whirpool. This ex- planation may be new, but it is, I fully believe, quite true, for I found it every voyage, bound North in the N.E. monsoon, only differing a little in force and direction according, perhaps, to the prevailing strange or light original main current. The E.N.E. and N.E. cui-rent or the first bend in this whirl runs strongest, and from 20 to 51 miles a day, decreasing as it advances North to about 25 and 15 miles when its direction is N.N.W. I Consider this branch 50 miles broad, and the diameter of the whole whirl, from Padaran to its southern extremity, about 180 miles, and from Padaran

If this whirl did not exist, how should we account for the strong N.E. current against a strong N.E. monsoon (and for the always sharp set about Sapata which we experience, and which Horsburg and the China Pilot men- tion), sometimes when the China Sea current to the North and S.W. of this whirl runs at the rate of 40 to 80 miles a day to the south-westward. This latter current I had in October, 1866, coming down from Hong Kong with the commencement of the N.E. monsoon, or why is there not a N.E. current in the N.E. monsoon, for instance, on the Macclesfield Bank, or at Pulo Condore as well ? After this current of the aforesaid main branch has run down to the Natunas, &c., it gets obstructed again on the coast of Borneo, by which a slight drain to the East is caused, running along the North coast of Borneo, through the Palawan Passage (assisted perhaps by a part of the aforesaid eastern counter current of the Palawan whirl), and along the West coast of Lugonia, to run from Capes Bolina and Bayadere N.N.W. in the great China circular current, and commence its round via Padaran

This circular whirl-current about Padaran is the same in the S.W. mon- soon, but in a contrary direction, but not so constant and regular as in the N.E. monsoon. H.B.M's. surveying vessel the Rifleman found the same amongst the Palawan shoals, where the commarder says, "The stronger the monsoon, the stronger the current to windward,^'' and this is according to the whirl theory quite conclusive, for the greater and stronger the counter current and the larger the whirl (and the stiffer the monsoon, the stronger is the China Sea current). I have often seen and noticed in the Saigon River, where the ebb tide runs at the rate of A knots an hoar, in the middle of the river, after turning a sharp corner it causes a great counter current or whirl, in which the waters run 2 or 3 knots up the river close alongside the 5-knot ebb tide, so that a boat, and often my own vessel, when in it, drifted up the river at the above rate. And when a small river can pro- duce such a strong whirl, what may not the mighty mass of the China Sea current be able to do ? At all events I never found it necessary with the above N.E. current in the N.E. monsoon to take the Palawan Route, and

my results have shown that I never was behind, but generally ahead of those vessels which did take that dangerous Palawan Route.

This whirl current to the West of the Palawan shoals may also account for the different currents found by vessels which are working there at the same time, where one ship beats right in the counter stream, whilst the other is too far West or inside the whirl, or too far East and out of its influence altogether. And these little whirls are to be found around all the shoals in the China Sea, and although Horsburg recommends passing to leeward of all shoals, I have great reason from my own experience for cautioning cap- tains even there. To leeward of the Pratas I found on two voyages the current setting East, or right on the shoals, against a stiff N.E. monsoon in the months of December and January. Although this is the general current it is nevertheless liable to irregularities and changes, in force and direction, and perhaps more than anywhere else, which is not at all surprising in a small sea like this, full of islands and shoals, and entirely enclosed by land, causing different winds on either side of it, and on which the current so much depends. For sometimes it blows a stiff N.E. gale to the North, while it is calm South of the Paracels, and commanders expecting perhaps a slight current are surprised to find one sometimes of 50 miles by observation, but in eight cases out of ten the above explained current will be found pretty

And lastly, I take the opportunity to caution captains against trusting too much to red or green lights when in the vicinity of the Pratas and Paracels, for they are often exhibited by wreckers and pirates, especially at the Pratas. I once observed a green light to windward of me on the West side of the Pratas. I kept four points off, and being a clear night, I went aloft with my glass, and saw two junks, one of which carried the light.

The following remarks on the passages along the Coast of China and be- tween China and Japan are taken chiefly from the China Sea Directory, and are supplementary to those previously given which describe the best routes for approaching the southern ports of China.

Passage East of Formosa. - When bound from Hong Kong to Ning-po, or Shanghai, or even to Fu-chau fu, during the N.E. monsoon, a vessel should be in good condition for contending with rough weather and for carrying sail. The best plan appears to be, to work along the coast as far

as Breaker Point,* and then stretch across to the South end of Formosa, and work up eastward of that island. By remaining in with the coast of China, she will have the advantage of the land wind at night, of smoother water, and the ebb tide out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her le© on the starboard tack, and in the event of its blowing too hard to make way, there are numerous convenient anchorages. It will be prudent to keep within 10 miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward whilst standing off the land; but as this cannot be done at night without risk, a vessel should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the middle watch, when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will enable her to make a good board on the off shore tack. By passing eastward of Formosa, also, a heavy short sea in the Formosa Channel will be avoided, as well as the constant set to the southward during the season.

After rounding the South end of Formosa, off which there is generally & troublesome sea, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep with- in the influence of the Kuro siwo or Japan stream, which has sometimes been found running northward at the rate of 30 or 40 miles per day.

There are no harbours on the East coast of Formosa, except Su-au Bay, tow^ards the North end of the island, and deep water will be found close to the land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea ; their sides in some places are cultivated, and a good many houses will be seen. H.M. brig Plover anchored on an uneven bottom in Black Rock Bay, the vessel swinging from 13 to 22 fathoms, and rode out a gale from the S.W. ; but it is by no means to be recommended.

Having weathered the North end of Formosa, it will be still advisable to keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parallel of lat. 30^° N. is gained. Should, however, a vessel be driven to the westward, she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able to tide it through the southern part of the Chusan Archipelago ; and if disabled and in want of

* Towards the close of the N.E. monsoon, and still later, it would seem preferable to cross over towards Luzon rather th.in beat up to Breaker Point against tresh N.E. breezes, as the following remarks of Captain David W. Stephens, of the British ship Sarkaway, tend to show; - " Ships from Hong Kong, bound through the Bashee or any of the other channels between Formosa and Luzon, from March to June inclusive, but more particularly in March and April, during brisk N.E. winds and a strong westerly current, frequently take a week beating along shore to reach Breaker Point before standing off; whereas, if after clearing the Lema Channel the vessels had stood off on a wind, clean full to the S.E., they would soon have got out of the westerly current, and on nearing Luzon would expe- rience the wind more from the eastward and sometimes from S.E., enabling them to tack to the N.N.E. with a strong current in their favour, and thus would probably get to the east- ward of Formosa in less time than it would have taken to reach Breaker Point by keeping along the Coast of China."

spars, she can remain at the southern side of Duffield Pass, and supply her- self from the Fu-chau wood junks.

Upon this part of the voyage the following remarks, which appeared in the "Mercantile Marine Magazine" for 1865, will be interesting. They are by Capt. James Turnbull, of the Glen Clune, of Glasgow, and relate to an outward voyage made in September, 1864.

The object of nearing Formosa, is to get into an easterly set in-shore, working round and joining the permanent great stream from the Pacific on the East side near Botel Tobago. This set is found as soon as the N.E. monsoon has set down the Formosa Channel, impelling the water, and thus making it perform the entire circuit of the island, down the West and up the East coast. While working off the South coast, wind northing, stood right for the Bashees, there tacked and fetched Botel Tobago, when we were fairly in the Japan current, temperature of water 83°, average daily East cape, too many vessels still commit the mistake of working to the northward, direct for Shanghai, whereas the current sets north-easterly right over the Hoa-pin-su Group. Follow it, drawing for its western edge a curve line from the E&st cape to 30 miles West of Hoa-pin-su, and on to the East side of the Linschoten or Cecille Group. Its eastern edge cannot be so well defined, but draw a line from Kumi to East of Raleigh Rock, and then past Sulphur Island and West of Lu-chu Group. The reason the western edge is better defined is, that it follows a sudden rise of the bottom, from ocean depth to about 50 fathoms. If you have an atlas on board, you will find the Japan stream placed 2° and 3° further south-easterly, that is just where a vessel woiild get the back eddies southwards, - any representa- tion that I have seen nf it being merely from the guesswork of generalisa- tion, not from actual observation. When the winter has set in the tempera- ture is a good guide on its N. W. side ; but in summer and fall, the heat of the water right up to the in-shore set of the China coast is nearly the same, 81° to 82°. From Botel Tobago to off Sulphur Island I beat up in six days, then tacked, heading N.W. by W., and in two days fetched the Jight-ship, The Anglo Saxon and Sir W. F. Williams did the same with somewhat similar success, while of those who fought away North of Formosa, one went down, others sought refuge at Amoy to refit, and some came dropping in towards the middle of October, assisted by the southerly winds that often succeed the first six weeks of the N.E. monsoon. The sea is much the same as in the American Gulf Stream, and vessels that cannot stand it ought not to be sent to China.

On making the Barren Islands, as nearly the whole flood tide sets S.W., keep to windward, and do not be tempted to seek shelter under the Saddle Islands. Either work in the open sea under a press of sail ; or, if possible, stand on until near the Amherst Rocks, when, if dark, anchor. You will

have rough riding, but the pilot boats and coasters do so at all times in pre- ference to seeking shelter to leeward, as, in spite of the sailing directions, it is difficult to get back. Pilots are now in abundance, and in the N.E. .mon- Boon ships run up to Wusung, and there take steam.

Amoy to Rivbr Min. - If bound from Hong Kong to Amoy, or the ports between that place and the River Min, a vessel will generally find a diffi- culty in getting round Breaker Point ; for the tide here is of no use, and all there is to assist is the likelihood that the wind will draw off the land after midnight, when, by being in-shore, a good board can be made, and possibly the Cape of Good Hope reached. Haimun Bay cannot be recommended, but still it would be better to anchor there than to be carried round the point. In this case, should West Hill be obscured, run in under the point, lower a boat, and let her find the sunken rock, and then come in with good way to windward of Parkyns Eock - if drawing less than 13 ft. - and shoot up round the boat into Fort Bay.

Having reached the Cape of Good Hope, the flood will assist a vessel to round it, and the ebb out of the Han River will be a weather tide ; in the latter case, and not intending to go inside Namoa Island, endeavour to get along the South side of the island, where there is an eddy tide, and anchor in South Bay, should the weather prove too bad to proceed on the flood ; both tides will be found strong off Three Chimney Point, and the same may be said of Jakako Point, round which vessels should take the first of the flood on the port tack.

Further northward about Rees Island, the flood tide in strong winds causes an uneasy sea, which will distress a vessel much. Red and Ting-tae Bays will be found good stopping-places ; and the latter should be preferred, though at the loss of 2 or 3 miles, to anchoring in an exposed position in the entrance to Amoy Harbour; as when the N.E. winds freshen off here on the flood, they generally bring a mist in with them, which makes it difficult to find the entrance, and at the same time a vessel will have trouble to get out of the harbour against the tide.

To the northward of Amoy or Leeo-lu and Hu-i-tau Bays, both of which afford good shelter. Chimmo Bay is not so good ; but with plenty of good ground tackle vessels may ride in it. The current in the monsoon over- comes the tide here ; and advantage must be taken of every slant of wind, bearing in mind that it is likely to draw off the land in the middle watch, pnd in the event of anchoring for shelter, this is the time to start, should the wind moderate ; by waiting for daylight vessels lose their offing, and will have to make an off-shore board at a loss. The fogs are at times thick, but the lead is not a bad guide, as the soundings generally change from sand to mud as the shore is approached. There is also fair anchorage under Pyramid Point, but not so good as that under the South Yit ; and if the

vessel is looking up North, or anything East of it, the ebb out of Meichen Sound will be of assistance.

From the Lam-yit Islands or the South end of Hai-tan Strait to the Whit© Dogs is beyond doubt the most difficult part of the passage. With steamers the strait will afford the best route ; but sailing vessels should decidedly keep outside, and stretch over to the N.W. coast of Formosa, where they are likely to get a slant of wind, and the advantage of a weather tide j and as this portion of the coast has been surveyed, by attention to the sound- ings no vessel can come to any harm.

EivER Mm TO Chusajj- Archipelago. - North of the Eiver Min the ebb is generally a weather tide (unless the wind is far to the North), and out of the river, and off Ting-hai and Sam-sah Bays, vessels will get a good lift ; and with the flood, the indraught into the latter will be sensibly felt as far out as Larne Islet, and increases to 2 and 3 knots as the main ia closed. As a general rule, tack for the in-shore tide, when the moon is on the meridian,

Tung-ying Island will be found a strong anchorage, and here the coast should be forsaken (unless the vessel is under 12 ft. draught), and the deep water to the eastward kept in. The tide will afford but little assistance un- til the vessel arrives at the Chusan Archipelago ; the flood causes an un- easy sea in the shallow water, while the ebb has too much southing in it;, unless the wind is eastward of E.N. E. ; but Nam-ki and Pih-ki-shan Islands will afford good shelter.

On reaching the Chusan Archipelago, take the Beak Head Channel, unless the tide is nearly done, in which case there is Harbour Eouse and the South side of Luhwang Island as anchorages under the lee ; and as the first of th© ebb runs to the northward through the Foto Channels, the tide through may be saved, and anchorage gained on the Ketau shore. From hence,, if bound to Ting-hai Harbour, contrive to arrive at the West end of Tower Hill Island about slack water ; otherwise, in light winds, the vessel is liable to be carried on to Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Blackwall

In working through the North part of the Chusan Archipelago, as the set of the ebb and flood trends nearly East and West, advantage can always be taken of the tide, and vessels may count on feeling the influence of the ebb within an hour of the moon's meridian passage. When in the vicinity of Gutzlaff Island the first of the flood takes a direction to the southward of West, running into Hang-chu Bay.

The eddy tide, generally speaking, will carry vessels clear of the large islands ; but when they are approaching detached rocks, great attention is required to prevent being set in amongst them.

In-shoke Passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse Kiang. - These directions for making the in-shore passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse Kiang by vessels of moderate steam power, during the N.E. monsoon, are drawn up from a report by Commander C. E. Buckle, H.M.S. Frolic, 1876, aided by Mr. T. E. Cocker, commanding the Chinese Eevenue Cruiser Ling-

A vessel should leave Hong Kong in time to anchor under Tam-tu Island for the night, if necessary, or by leaving earlier, to reach the well sheltered anchorage in Samun Road, between Tuni-ang and Samun Islands ; or in Harlem Bay. Leaving Tam-tu at daylight, pass out through Tathong Channel ; after rounding Tam-tu Island, steer to the westward of Nine-pin Group for Basalt Island, thence North of Tuni-ang Island for Harlem Bay. If in fine weather, and keeping to the southward, pass near to Single Island. Prom Harlem Bay, pass on either side of Middle Rock, round Eokai Point, and North of Pauk-Piah ; thence steer for Goat Island, where good anchor- age may be obtained on the N. W. side of the island.

A vessel may either proceed to the southward of Goat Island and North of Reef Islands for Chelang Point, or pass to the southward of Reef Islands, and thence for Tong-mi Point (good anchorage wiU be found in Chino Bay). Pass to the northward of Si-ki Island, and South of Tung-ki, thence for Hutung Point and Turtle Rock, from which steer in-shore for, and through, Tungao Roads, tolerably near White Rock and to the southward of Corea

Having rounded Breaker Point, not nearer than 2 miles, steer to pass near Tong-lae Point into Haimun Bay, South of Parkyns Rock into Hope Bay, where there is good anchorage during the N.E. monsoon. From abreast Swatow, steer to pass about half a mile to the eastward of Fort Island (giving Dove Rock, off Swatow, a good berth), being careful not to mistake either of the cones or hummocks of Fort Island, which appear detached, for the more distant Brig Island. If it be desirable to pass South of Namoa, the best anchorage for small vessels will be found in South Bay. When rounding the S.E. point of Namoa Island, care is necessary to avoid Glen- gyle Rock.

Passing North of Namoa, keep a good look-out for the heavy fishing stakes extending from Clipper Point, and proceed for Breaker Island. From Fort Head, steer towards Chauan Head for Owick Bay, where good anchor- age will be obtained, with the rock off Owick Point bearing S.S.E. ^ E., and Jokako Peak N.E. f E. In this bay it will be almost calm when there is a good breeze outside.

From Owick Bay steer for Bell Island ; or, if keeping in-shore, haul out when closing this island, and pass to the southward of it. Between Bell and Square Islands a very disturbed sea and tide rip will be experienced ; keep towards Jokako Point and into Jokako Bay, gradually hauling out to paes

about half a mile from the rocks off Cone Point, from which steer for Pagoda Island, gradually hauling out to pass close under Thunder Head, thence steer to the southward of Rees Rock. From Rees Pass, steer for the Hu- tau-shan River bar, and gradually haul out to pass about half a mile off Black Head and Tagau Point ; passing tolerably close to and eastward of Hut Islet, thence westward of Spire Islet, and mid-channel between Crab Point and Cleft Islet, which is a desirable channel. Between Spire Islet and Cork Point there is usually a rough sea, and the coast should be fol- lowed as closely as Shun Rock will admit. Anchorage may be obtained in Red Bay.

The distance from Cork Point to the outer anchorage of Amoy may easily be run during a fine night, the islands and headlands showing out plainly : - Leaving Red Bay, give Cork Point a good berth, and steer to the westward of House Hill Point, edging out when closing the latter point ; thence for Notch Island and along the coast for Table Head (off which some rocks are said to exist), and Chin-ha Point.

Proceeding to the northward, outside Amoy, steer for Leeo-lu Bay, in which, by passing close to Leeo-lu Head, good anchorage will, if required, be found. Prom Leeo-lu, steer to clear Dodd Ledge thence along the coast, keeping inshore. Safe anchorage may be found under Tongbu in addition to the many good anchorages shown on the chart. Sorrel Rock may be passed either on the East or West sides, and with a strong breeze a vessel may pass North of Loutz Shoal, through Lamyit Channel, and make for Hai-tan Strait. If the weather be fine, pass to the southward of Sorrel Rock, skirt Lamyit Islands, thence for Turnabout Island"* and Hai Head. Good anchorage will be obtained under Hai Head, with Turnabout Island shut in.

Prom Hai Head, steer towards the White Dog Islands, passing westward of that group thence to Matson Diplo, and Spider Islands, between Spider and Cony Islands, or to the westward of Spider Island, and through Seaon Channel, thence to Fuh-yan or through the Chuh-pi Pass, to anchorage in Lishan Bay. From Fuh-yan, keep along the coast, and pass between Tung- pwan and Shroud Islands, thence into Bullock Harbour, if necessary. Leaving Bullock Harbour, pass out between Pwan-peen and the northern Tseigh Islands, eastward of Coin Island, and southward of Hea-chu, off the Tai-chou Islands: - With a strong breeze a vessel may steer from Coin Island to pass between Taluk and Chin-ki, thence between San-shi Islands and Stragglers, to good anchorage under Shetung. Proceed between Chik- hok and Low Chikhok, West of Squall Islands, and between Fir Coin and

* A sunken rock, on which the S.S. Sunda struck, in 1875, is said to be situated from 1 to 1^ mile northward of Turnabout Island,

Chuh-sen, to good anchorage westward of Gau-tau Island. Proceeding to the northward from this anchorage, pass between Kinmen and Gau-tau Islands. In fine weather pass to the eastward of Heroine Rock (the ac- cepted position of this rock, as given by the U.S.S. Ashuelot, being S.E. by strong wind steer for Cape Conway and through Sheipoo Roads.

Fair anchorage in a N.W. wind will be obtained under the northern Kweshan Island, but there is a better anchorage to the N.W. of Castle Rock. It is, however, advisable to get as close to Gough Pass for the night as pos- sible, ready to go through at daylight, or if in time, go through the pass and anchor for the night near Sing-lo Island. After passing Sing-lo Island pro- ceed through Tower Hill and Blackwall Channels ; anchorage may be found under Dunsterville or Volcano Islands, both of which should be left to the eastward on passing, thence steer for Rug:ged Islands.

Care is necessary when navigating this part of the coast, as the tides run

It should be borne in mind, that at all times during the N.E. monsoon the weather is uncertain, and strong breezes set in without any warning, sometimes lasting for two or three days, or even more. Fogs are experienced in the early part of the year in the same manner.

No vessels of small steam power should attempt to proceed northward during the N.E. monsoon, except by the inshore passage, and the same might be said of the typhoon season.

Passages in S.W. Monsoon. - There will not be the same difB.culty in getting to the southward against the southerly monsoon, as there is in going to the northward against the other, as it is not so permanent in its direction, and land and sea breezes prevail ; the current has generally been found running strong to the northward in the Formosa Channel, but vessels are not liable to the same detention which they often experience in the northerly monsoon. Care, however, must be taken not to overshoot the port.

Fogs prevail in the early part of the season, and render the navigation at times as harassing as it is in the N.E. monsoon ; they, however, generally lift in the vicinity of the land, and a ship's length from where the bowsprit can hardly be seen will carry her into sunshine.

The chief difficulty to overcome in making the passage between the Gulf of Pe-chili and Hong Kong during the southerly monsoon is the strong easterly or north easterly current. After passing the parallel of the Yang- tse kiang, it will be advisable to keep near the China coast ; for although a vessel may lie up South or S. by E. on the starboard tack, it should be re- membered that she is making little better than a S.E. (ourse in consequence of the easterly set. A stretch to the north-westward, though apparently a loss of ground, will ultimately prove useful.

H.M.S. Pique, Capt. Sir Frederick Nicolson, C.B., in making this passage in July and August, was not favoured when close in shore by any land and sea breezes, nor had the least slant, but generally lost the wind. A weather tide was occasionally felt when near the shore in the Formosa Channel.

Although the constant adverse current makes this a tedious passage against the monsoon, there is nothing to prevent a vessel of moderate sailing qualities making the passage at this season. The Pique had seldom more than single-reefed topsails, and the sea was generally smooth ; she made the passage from the Gulf of Pe-chili to Hong Kong in 31 days.

It would appear that North of the tropic to the parallel of 30° N., North and N.E. winds prevail during the greater part of the year, but alternating with calms, variables, and S.W. winds during the summer months.

DUEING THE NOETH-EAST MONSOON. - Hong Kong to Yedo. - A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo at this season, should work up the Coast of China as far as Breaker Point (or see note, page 92), taking care to be always under the land at nightfall, the wind during the night always hauling to the northward (off the land), when she may make a long tack off, standing in again in the morning when the wind shifts to the N.E., and fre- quently more easterly still. From Breaker Point the vessel may then stand across with the wind free tor the South end of Formosa, experiencing a southerly set whilst in the Formosa Channel ; but on nearing the island she will lose it, and on passing South Cape fall in with the Kuro Siwo setting to

Having passed South Cape Formosa, the vessel may work up the coast of that island, passing between it and the Meiaco Sima Group, and to the west- ward of the Liu-Kiu Islands, having the current with her as far as the parallel of 26° N., beyond which parallel she will experience no current until 30° N., where a strong current will be found setting to the eastward, the wind also being more from the North and West. She may then pass through any of the channels between the islands lying off the South point of Japan, after which, keeping at about from 50 to 10 miles from the land, in the strength of the Kuro Siwo, she may make the lights at Oo Sima (entrance of the Kii Channel), and passing them at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles, may steer to pass just outside Mikomoto (Eock Island).

From Yedo to Hong Kong. - On leaving the Gulf of Yeao, stand to the south-westward as far as 28° S. and 135° E., whence a course may be shaped to pass northward of Kakirouma, one of the Liu-Kiu Group, thus avoiding the influence of the Kuro Siwo. After passing Iwo Sima, a straight course may be steered for Tung Ying, on making which island stand down the China coast for Hong Kong-

Fbom Shanghae to Nagasaki. - At this season, if the wind is to the east- ward of North, it would be well on leaving the Yang-tse to stand to the north-westward on the starboai'd tack, and when the wind hauls round to the north-westward, which it will as the ship advances northward, tack, and steer a straight course for Nagasaki, making allowance for the south-easterly and easterly set from the Yellow Sea and Korea Strait, otherwise the ship may be swept to the eastward through Van Diemen Strait. During the periodic easterly winds (variable between E.N.E. and S.E.) which prevail on the China coast in the vicinity of the Yang-tse, from March to June inclusive, with a sailing vessel, every opportunity must betaken to make easting, even with a fair wind, which it may be almost surely inferred will be but of short duration. In May and June, however, the set of the current will be changed, and will be found running to the north-eastward ; under these circumstances there is a probability that a vessel kept on the starboard tack would be set over to the Korean Archipelago. With these considerations the navigator must act on his own judgment, there being only difficulty in making the passage, when baffling winds, and thick, rainy, and squally weather are met with in the vicinity of the Meac Sima, the Pallas, or the Goto Islands, or they are passed on dark nights. If not, therefore, sure of the vessel's posi- tion, it would be well to make them in the daytime, unless the nights are moderatel}' fine.

Hakodate through Korea Strait. - If bound on to Hakodate at the same season, or even as late as the end of June, it will be found difficult with a sailing vessel to make easting at all along the West coast of Nipon. It will be advantageous in April, May, and June, to pass well East of Tsu Sima in the strength of the Japan stream, which sets N.E. by N. through the Korea Strait, attaining at times, although not constant, a velocity of 2 knots an hour. Should a S.W. wind occur at this season, it may be ex- pected to last only 24 hours, unless it follow an easterlj' gale with depressed barometer. During the winter, gales from North and N.W. are very fre- quent in the Korea Strait, lasting three or four days, and are sometimes violent. A rapidly falling barometer indicates their approach, the wind in- creasing in force after the mercury commences to rise, and not attaining its height until 24 hours after. In such weather, if making for Nagasaki on the purt tack, beware of being blown to leeward into Van Diemen Strait, for if set through by the Japan stream it will take a long time to regain the lost ground against the current (one vessel having been nearly three weeks en- deavouring to beat round Cape ChichakofF) ; and if on the starboard tack, there is probability of being set up the Korea Strait to the northward of Ose Saki. As both cases have happened to vessels, it is recommended that they should endeavour to make the land in daylight, and find anchorage, or secure a knowledge of their position.

In winter, when N.W. and West winds prevail, a direct course should be

Bteered from the Korea Strait when bound to Hakodate ; but if bound from Hakodate southward, it is necessary to endeavour to make westing when possible, and keep a long offing, for the coast of Nipon is a lee shore. After passing Korea Strait as well to windward as possible, the winds will be sometimes they continue so steadily between N.W. and "SV.S.W. as to set a vessel to leeward of the Tang-tse.

Shaxgitae to Yedo. - On leaving the Yang-tse, the wind will be rarely found as far to the eastward as N.E. ; it is best, therefore, to keep the ship on the starboard tack, remembering that she will be set to the eastward towards Yan Diemen Strait, after passing which, pursue the same route as directed in the passage from Hong Kong.

DUEING THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON. - Hong Koxg to Yedo. - A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo should run up the China coast aa far as Tung Ying, then shape a course for Akusi Sima, one of the Linschoten group. On passing the meridian of 125'' E. the set will be strong to the north-eastward. Pass through any of the channels between the islands South of Japan in preference to Yan Diemen Strait, as the dense fogs which hang over the coast at this season render the navigation of this strait diffir cult, whilst farther seaward, when in the warm stream of the Kuro Siwo, the atmosphere is bright and clear. After passing the channel steer to make the lights at Oo Sima, remembering the current sets along the coast of Japan to the north-eastward at this season from 2 to 4^ knots an hour. After passing Oo Sima at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles, steer for Mikimoto (Eock Island) light. If bound from Hong Kong to Nagasaki, after leaving Tung Ying steer for Meac Sima, passing between which group and the Pallas Rocks, a course E.N.E. 80 miles will place the ship off the lighthouse on Signal Head (the North point of Iwo Simaj at the entrance to Nagasaki Harbour, on nearing which it should not be brought to bear northward of

From Yedo to Hong Kong. - This passage is so seldom made by sailing vessels that very little is known of the best route to be pursued ; the follow- ing, however, is recommended : -

On leaving the Gulf of Yedo shape a course to the south-eastward, to garet's Island, cross the meridian of 140° E. in lat. 21° N., thence steer (with a favourable current) for the N.E. point of Luzon, on passing which enter the China Sea, when a direct course may be shaped for Hong Kong, taking care to allow for the drift-current setting to the N.E. at this season. It may here be remarked, that this route lies directly across the paths of the typhoons, which are prevalent in the tropics at this period.

This voyage is rarely made, as sailing vessels so take advantage of the monsoons that they leave Hong Kong for the northern ports and Japan at

the commencement of the S.W. monsoon, and, remaining at the ports of the latter islands until the monsoon takes oflF, leave for the South at the com- mencement of the N.E. monsoon.

Steamers, however, run at all times between the two places, and at this season usually on leaving Yedo Gulf, and, passing Mikomoto, keep well in shore to Oo Sima, passing which they keep up the Kii Channel through Isumi Strait and the Inland Sea. On passing Simonoseki Strait, if not bound to Nagasaki, they keep to westward of the Goto Islands, and making the Saddle Islands off the Yang-tse, keep close to the shore, and from thence pursue the same course to the southward as vessels bound from Shaghae to Hong Kong.

From Shanghae to Nagasaki. - On leaving the Yang-tse, steer to pass between the Pallas Eocks and Meac Sima (Asses' Ears), which last is visible in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles. The current will bo found setting to the north-eastward through Korea Straits ; cai-e must be taken, therefore, to avoid being set to the northward of Ose Saki, the South point of the Goto Islands, as the current during the S.W". monsoon is often strong in this locality. Passing the Amherst Eocks, a course E. f N. 390 miles will lead midway between the Pallas Eocks and Ose Saki (Cape Goto).

The foregoing is a general account of the tracks most usually followed in traversing the Indian Archipelago or the China Sea. The more particular instructions for each locality will be found in their respective places here-

In such a variety of routes there is necessarily some diversity of opinion as to which is best, and this has not been lessened of late years by the increased variety in the build and trim of the vessels employed in oriental commerce. The route practicable and advantageous to the swift sailing clipper cannot be followed by the heavy-laden and slow-sailing ship of former years. In what is here given, these different routes are each given, some from older authorities, some from recent experience. Some of the best tracks have been avoided from our ignorance of their nature, and their supposed dangerous character. This is fast disappearing before increased kno^vledge, and it may be predicted that some settled system for the naviga- tion wiU be established in the course of a few years.

In the succeeding pages will be found a detailed description of the shores and seas of the Indian Archipelago and China, commencing with the Strait of Malacca, and proceeding thence southward and eastward in regular suc- cession. This arrangement has been preferred to that of following a parti- cular voyage in one direction, as the present exigences of Oriental commerce require the subject to be considered in such varied aspects, that no other than a strictly geographic arrangement can be applicable to every case. The plan of the future pages will be thus readily understood.

Physical Geography. - The Indian Archipelago presents many remarkable features, worthy of the consideration of the passing navigator, as some of ita peculiarities will thereby become better understood. This subject was well treated by Mr. Geo. W. Earl, and more recently, in its relation to animal and vegetable life, by Mr. Alfred Russell Wallace.

The first great feature of its constitution is the line of active volcanoes which encircle the whole of the north-western and most extensive area. A line of spiracles and rugged mountains from which they issue may be fol- lowed from Cheduba, in the Bay of Bengal, to the Andaman Islands, pass- ing through the entire length of Sumatra, nearer to its S. W. coast ; is con- tinued along the southern part of Java, and passes through the chain of islands to the eastward, which are separated by narrow but very deep channels. Thence past the North part of Timor towards New Guinea, where it is met by another chain running from N.N.W., where it may be traced along Kamscharka through the Kurile Islands, Japan, Loo Choo, and the Philippines, after which it divides into two branches, the western passing down to the Moluccas, &c., past Celebes, and joining the first-named line at the West end of New Guinea, and hereabout its greatest efiects are evident, in the fantastic forms it has given to Celebes and Gillolo and other islands. These rise abruptly from immense depths,* and to this and other causes may be attributed that want of fertility which characterises them : the rich soil caused by the decomposition of the rocks and vegetation being washed away from their arid surfaces into the deep ocean. The two lines of volcanic action

fathoms off the S.W. end of Mindanao, and similar depths in most parts of her track from Torres Straits through the Molucca Passage, Celebes and Sulu Seas, to Manila.

thus united may be followed to the eastward along the North coast of New Guinea, along the Louisiade Archipelago, to New Ireland along the Solomau Group towards the New Hebrides, and may be seen in detached spots as far as New Zealand, and the islands South of it.

This volcanic band is of a totally distinct character in its productions to the other parts of the Archipelago. As in all other parts of the world, the volcanic rocks, which are easily and rapidly decomposed by atmospheric in- fluences, form a soil of unparalleled fertility when cultivated, although there are few useful natural productions, unless the nutmeg be so considered. This feature has attracted the numerous European settlements which are scattered along the bases of these chains, where the sugar and coffee plantaions of Java, and the spice groves of the more eastern islands, afford such materials for commercial enterprise, which would seem to be almost illimitable. Mineral treasures are not to be hoped for in these ranges ; the action of the volcanic heat has so altered the character of the superimposed rocks, that they afford nothing to the metallurgist.

The second great feature which may be noticed are those parallel lines of primary rocks which trend in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction across the archipelago, as well as in the countries of Asia to the northward, and across the continent of Australia to the southward. The chain which forms the backbone of the Malayan Peninsula is perhaps the most conspicuous of these ; it may be traced southwards through Banka, &c. It is in this forma- tion where the great deposits of metal are most abundant, or at least most easily worked, as in the famous gold and tin mines of Malaya, and the Banka tin mines. Sumatra, apart from its volcanic ridge, affords another example of these primary ridges. A third traverses Cambodia, &c., showing itself at Pulo Condore and the Natunas, and then reappears at the N.W. end of Borneo, and is lost on the North coast of Borneo. Another passes along the coast of Cochin China, traverses a portion of Borneo and the southern part of Celebes. One feature of these ridges is the existence of the teak tree, which only flourishes on them. When this important tree is transplanted on to the rich volcanic soil, it languishes.

A third feature is the great banks which extend from Asia and Australia, but do not join. This was first pointed out in their relation to their pro- ductions by Mr. Windsor Earl. He says : These banks of soundings, which extend from the continents of Asia and Australia, form very remarkable features in the geography of this part of the world, and, as such, are de- serving of more attention than has hitherto been bestowed upon them, since it will be found that all the countries lying upon these banks partake of the character of the continents to which they are attached; while those which are situated on the deep sea which separates them are all of comparatively recent volcanic formation, with the exception of a few small coral islands, which are in all probability constructed upon the summits of submerged

volcanoGS. The depths on these banks average about 30 fathoms, deepening rapidly as the ed^e is approached, and shoals gradually toward the land. The great Asiatic Bank extends into the archipelago to a distance of nearly 1,000 miles; in fact, to within 50 miles of Celebes, and perhaps farther.

The great bank which fronts the North and N.W. coasts of Australia commences near the N.W. cape, and extends in a N.E. direction to New Guinea, where it terminates at the base of the high but narrow mountain range that unites the western with the eastern part of that great island, and separates the Banda Sea from the Pacific. It is at this point that the edge of the bank is most remote from Australia, its edge being 400 miles distant from it. It appears ap:ain on the South coast of New Guinea, near Torres Strait, and extends along the N.E. coast of Australia.

The Arru Islands and New Guinea are thus united to Australia, and possess in common some features hitherto supposed to belong exclusively to Australia, such as the kangaroo, «S:c.

The volcanic islands between these great shoals appear to have a world of their own, different from the countries on either side. This remarkable feature cannot be dilated on, but may be followed in the excellent papers given by Mr. A. R. Wallace. It would seem as if the animal life especially belonged to a different order generally from that found on the neighbouring continents, and is even different between adjacent islands, so that these anomalies have given rise to some interesting speculations.

Respecting our knowledge of the coasts and seas, it is of varied character. Although much more perfect than it was a few years since, there are some serious defects in the hydrography of the archipelago, especially in the eastern portion of the area. The surveyors of the East India Company in former years, and our Admiralty hydrographers in later times, have examined the principal passages leading into the China Sea, as the StrHits of Malacca and Singapore, Banka, &c. The Dutch Government have given charts and directions for the ct;untries adjacent to these possessions, such as Sunda Strait and the coasts of Java, and the nautical world owes much to the Dutch commission for the improvement of charts and navigation. Under the auspices of this body a fine series of charts, of various and extensive por- tions of the archipelago, were published. These have since been mostly copied by our Admiralty. For the Spanish possessions in the Philippine Islands, &c., we have the older and modern surveys of that nation. The coast of China has been excellently surveyed by our Admiralty. All these authorities will be generally enumerated in the course of the ensuing pages.

Before proceeding with the descriptions, we must make our general ac- knowledgement of indeotedness to the China Sea Directory, published by the Admiralty. This work, derived from many sources, gives a correct picture of our present knowledge, and is therefore deserving of all confidence.

This great highway into the China Sea may be considered to be limited on the N.W. by a line joining Acheen Head and the South point of Junksey- lon, which would be about 225 miles in length ; and from this limit to the Carimon Isles, at its S.E. end, is 500 miles, so that it has more the character of an inland sea than a channel between Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula. In a more contracted sense it may be said to commence at Diamond Point on Sumatra, and Pulo Penang on the Malayan side, and these are 164 miles apart East and West.

The monsoons, interrupted by the high land of Sumatra on the one hand, and that of the Malay Peninsula on the other, each crossing the line of their normal direction, are only felt for a short distance within the respective en- trances, and from its position so near to the equator, the strait is subject to baffling and light winds and calms. In a former page the peculiarities of the winds and seasons have been referred to.

Its coasts have not been completely surveyed, but partial examinations have been made by Lieuts. Woore, W. Eose, and Capts. Moresby and C. Y. Ward. The charts, it is believed, are sufficiently complete for the safety of its navigation, which, under proper precaution, is free from danger.

The British Possessions, called the Straits Settlements, are the Province Wellesley, a strip of coast on the Malay Peninsula, about 10 miles broad and 35 miles long, at the back of Pulo Penang^ also a British possession, a patch of country, 22 miles in length from North to South, with the island of Pancore lying off its southern portion, as hereafter described. The terri- tory of Malacca, about 40 miles in length, and 25 miles in mean breadth, -with its capital of the same name, and the great commercial emporium Singapore. These form a governorship, which, till the year 1S51, was sub- ject to the jurisdiction of Bengal. In that year it was placed under the Indian Board ; and on January 1st, 1867, it was transferred from that of India to the Colonial Office, and some changes were made in their constitu- tion. Each of these settlements is largely peopled with Chinese immigrants, who are the most industrious of the people. The Malay States from North

to South are named as follows - Quedah (Wellesley), Perak (Dinding), Sa- langore (Malacca), and Johore. The maritime population of these would be formidable pirates, were it not for the vigilance of the states cruizers, and gun- boats of light draught, which can follow the delinquents into the shelter of their rivers. Notwithstanding this, small vessels and boat parties should be on their guard, as among a population of this character, where morality is at so low an ebb, it is only a fear of being overpowered in the attempt, or found out and punished after the act is committed, which deters them from similar acts of violence to those committed in years gone by.

In recent years British Residents have been placed as advisers to the rulers of the different native states, and it is hoped by these means to increase the trade and otherwise improve the government of the peninsula.

The greatest mineral production of the country is tin, which seems to be met with in almost every part of the interior, and in very great abundance. The tin districts which have been most worked of late years are situated at Klang, in Salangore ; at Laroot, in Perak ; and at Linghie, near Malacca. "The mines in these districts," says Mr. Braddell, in 1874, "are so rich, and the profit of working them has been so great, that, notwithstanding the difficulties in dealing with the Malay chiefs as to the royalty to be paid, and notwithstanding the oppression of the chiefs, and the frequent massacres of the Chinese miners, they are still attracted to the place, and succeed yearly in sending large quantities of tin to Singapore and Penang."

Province Wellesley extends from the state of Queda, or Keddah, on the North to the river Krean, or Karian, S.E. of the South point of Penang. It resembles Penang in its geologilal structure, granite, over which is found the cellular clay iron-stone, so abundant in these regions, and known by the name of laterite.

The settlement produces sugar, rice, and cccoanuts in abundance, and among many other products a great variety of delicious fruits. Its chief im- portance, however, arises from the fact, that the capital of the island is a great emporium for the manufactures of Britain, and for the products of the countries of the Malay Peninsula on the one hand, and of Sumatra on the other.

PULO PENANG, or Prince of Wales Island, is about 14 miles long and 9 miles broad, and separated from the Malay coast by a channel from 2 to 5 miles broad. It is intersected by a range of granitic hills, the highest peaks

of which are Government Hill, to the West of the fort, 2,550 ft. ; West Hill, KingofQuedah to the East India Company, July - August, 1786, for a naval station. It has answered every expectation of its founder, Captaia Li"-ht, and is, like the other straits settlements, entirely free from any impost on shipping.*

Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, is justly termed the Eden of the East, and the northern part especially is an immense spice garden. Fruit and vegetables are in great abundance, and in fact all Eastern delicacies, not forgetting the water, which may be considered the best in or out of the

The N.W. part of the island is lofty and irregular, but been from a distance, as far as 20 leagues off, it has a regular oblong appearance. The West coast forms a slender bay, with low wooded land reaching to the foot of the inte- rior hills. The southern part of the island is lower. The town is on the East side. The climate is hot, but considered healthy.

The exceeding magnificence of its mountain views, the richness and variety of their component parts, and the coolness and transparency of the atmos- phere which this country enjoys, give a freshness and elasticity to the mind never e:5perienced in the sultry plains of India. It is almost inconceivable how nature, in so small a compass, has contrived to crowd such a wonderful diversity of pleasing objects. - Logan.

* Port Rules, 1872. - The limits of the Port of Penang are as follows : - From an obe- lisk built at Klarwey in a straight line to Bagan Jermal, along the western shores of Province Wellesley, to an obelisk at Bagan Luar. and in a straight line to Penang Bridge, thence along the eastern shores of Prince of Wales Island, to the obelisk at Klarwey, in- cluding the mouth of Prangin Eiver, as far as the second Teetee Papan Bridge.

The limits of the South Channel are as follows* - From the North bank of the Penang Eiver to Nos. 8 and 5 red buoys, from thence along the eastern bank of Pulo Terajah to the south-easternmost point of Pulo Rimo, thence in a straight line to No. 9 white buoj'^, then obelisk built at Bagan Luar.

Signals in case of fire. - In the daytime, the Commercial Code signal of distress indicated by " NC :" at the same time, when possible, two guns should be fired, at an interval of one minute ; at night time, two rockets fired, and two blue lights burned alternately at an in- terval one one m.nute, and two guns fired as in the daytime.

Requiring the assistance of the Police. - In the daytime, the national ensign to be hoisted at the main-masthead ; at night, one gun to be fired, and one blue light burnt.

Masters of vessels are prohibited from anchoring abreast of the jetty, or in any place within 250 yards on either side thereof.

Vessels remaining upwards of 24 hours are to moor and keep a clear hawse. No sailing vessel is to be unmoored or shifted about without permission from the harbour-master, and on no account after dark, except in case of emergency.

it, on the eastern side, a shoal bank skirts all the North end of the island for 11 miles to the point on which Geora:e Town stands, the 3 -fathoms edge being from 1 to 2|- miles off shore. At 3J miles East of Muka Point is the Feringi Bock, close in-shore, and at 3J miles farther is Fulo Tikus (or Tee- coos), a rocky islet with some rocks around. Between this islet (on which, is a white obelisk) and the Malay shore is the shoalest part of the channel "which insulates Penang, not having more than 4 fathoms.

George Town, or Penang. - The chief place of the island stands on its eastern point, the extremity of which is occupied by Fort Cornwallis. It contained probably nearly 60,000 inhabitants in 1873, of whom a very large propor- tion are Chinese - many of them merchants and shopkeepers. It is situated on a low plain stretching out in a point into the sea, on the side of the island next to the mainland, and its harbour, which is simply the almost landlocked strait between the island and the mainland, is of great extent and unrivalled calmness. It has always a large fleet of vessels of every rig, from the finest British steamer to the Chinese junk.

The distance from the fort to the mainland opposite is about 2 miles, and this forms the harbour. The Fort Point is steej)-to, having 9 and 10 fathoms fathoms on the Malay side. The best berth for anchoring is about a quarter of a mile South of the fort, in 9 or 10 fathoms, or less for small vessels. The tides are more regular here than close to the point, where they cause eddies. It is high water off the fort at 12'*, at full and change, but the flood runs southward till 3 o'clock in the main stream. Springs rise 9 ft., and neaps

Channels. - Mr. J. G. Maddock remarks: - "Both the northern and southern channels are safe, the northern shallows being well marked by fishing stakes, numbers of which are in 4 to 5 fathoms water. I have often passed between them, but a stranger having any regard for his copper ought to give them a good offing, as there are many old stakes broken off 2 or 3 ft. under water. The southern entrance is well buoyed, and also marked by beacons ; but unless you have a good commanding breeze from the southward or S.W., which is not often the case except in the first of the rainy season (August and September), and if coming from the southward, I should always prefer the northern channel. I recollect once coming up with the A. J. Kerr, from Singapore. I had a good stiff breeze from the southward and westward, which I made available for the southern entrance. I had got to within half a mile of my anchorage when I was met by a northerly wind. I gave orders to clew up and anchor, and left the two winds to battle the match how they liked ; in the morning I found the northerly wind had gained the day : this is not an uncommon occurrence in the southern channel."

The best route to reach the anchorage, as above stated, is by the North

channel. The southern one is intricate and also dangerous without an inti- mate knowledge, and with a large ship. With westerly winds, steer for the North end of the island, or with the wind from N.E. or northward, make for the mainland to the northward, and approach Pulo Bunting from N.W. by W. or W.N.W. The Bunting (or Boonting) Isles are four in number, with an islet between them, lying about 12 to 15 miles North from Penang. The largest is the northernmost, and is opposite to the peak of Quedah ; and the southernmost is Bidan, or Biddan, which is nearest to the shore, and has only 2 or 2|^ fathoms inside of it. By night these islands may be neared to within depths of 14 or 15 fathoms; by day there is no danger but what may be seen. When past them, steer about S.S.E., with Pulo Bidan bearing about N. by W., keeping about midway between the North part of Penang and the paain to avoid a flat extending off the Malay shore, and also that which encircles the North end of Penang, as before mentioned. The bar, or shoalest part of the channel, will be found when abreast of Pulo Tikus, and is only 24 ft., barely sufficient if there be any swell, which seldom occurs, if the draught be more than 20 ft.

The Port Point is 3^ miles to the S.E. of Pulo Tikus, which, as before stated, has some rocks around it ; but having passed it, the water deepens towards the harbour. The N.E. shore of the island forms a slender bay, filled with a muddy shoal, which suddenly drops from 2 to 5 fathoms. The lead is not a sufiioient guide in thick weather, or at night, in passing over the flat between the N.E. point and the Malayan shore, as the depths are nearly the same all across until within 1^ mile of either shore. The shore of the main land is low, and covered with trees, so that it is not so conspicuous as the high land of Penang, which will thus appear the nearest when in mid-channel. From within Pulo Tikus to the fort, stand off again when 5^ or 6 fathoms is reached. By daylight there is no difficulty in thus reaching the harbour, as the rocks of Pulo Tikus are bold-to. In the N.W. monsoon which sets in in August, there may be some difficulty in beating out by this North channel, but at all other times it is preferable for large ships. A good leading mark is to keep the West end of Pulo Jerajah, which lies off the East coast of Penang, clear of, or just open of the point on which Fort Corn- wa)lis is built. This will carry you clear of all danger, the least water being 4J fathoms, mud and sand. Should you not see Pulo Jerajah, owing to hazy weather, the long leading mark is as before mentioned, Pulo Bidan, the southernmost of the Bunting, bearing N. by W. until you get sight of Pulo

The South Channel, though intricate, is very serviceable during adverse winds, as it affords a ready outlet in fine weather to the southward for ships drawing under 17 ft. water. Pilots are stationed at Pulo Jerajah. It is bounded on the West side by the Middle or Long Sand, marked by three buoys along its eastern side, which begins about three-quarters of a mile

South of the Fort Point, and stretches nearly to the North point of Pulo Jerajah. On the East side it is bounded by the northern spit of the Great Kra Flat, or as it was termed the Praya (or Pry) Sand. It is a bank of soft mud, which stretches from the Malay shore for 10 miles, when to the South of Penang.

high. It has a narrow channel of 3 to 5 fathoms between it and Penang. Off the S.E. point of Penang is Pulo Peine, or Ramio, close to the South of which the channel passes.

Buoys. - The South Channel is marked by ten buoys, numbered from North to South, each placed red on the western, and white on the eastern edge of the channel, in about 2 fathoms of water. Of these, three painted red mark the eastern edge of the Middle Bank ; and six, painted white, the western edge of the Great Kra Flat; a fourth red buoy lies S.W. of Eomo Island. No. 1, a red buoy, is moored on the North end of the Middle Bank, from No. 1, marks the eastern side of the channel, which is here quite clear, and nearly three-quarters of a mile in width. At 1 J mile below No. 2 buoy the channel is marked on either side by red buoy No. 3 and white buoy No. 4, which are two-thirds of a mile apart; hereabouts the soundings suddenly decrease from 6 to 2f , 3 and 4 fathoms, the deepest channel being nearer to the white buoy. At about three-quarters of a mile below Nos. 3 and 4, Nos. 5 red and 6 white, three-quarters of a mile apart, mark the opposite sides of the channel. The deepest part of the channel here is towards No. 6, as a from No. 6, marks the eastern side of the channel opposite the highest part of Pulo Jerajah. Hence to the southward the channel is broad and deep. South end of Pulo Jerajah. No. 9, red, marks the western side of the channel, 2 miles S.W. of Pulo Eemo ; and No. 10, white, marks the eastern side at its South extremity, and lies IJ mile southward of No. 9 red buoy.

In leaving Penang Harbour by the South channel, get under weigh about half flood, and steer S. by E. and South to enter the channel between the Middle Sand and the Pry or Praya Sand. When the bar is neared, keep near the eastern edge of the Middle (or Long) Sand, the depth in crossing it is nearly 5 fathoms, between the North end of Pulo Jerajah and Kra Flat. When the North point of Pulo Jerajah bears to the northward, the soundings will decrease to 6 and 7 fathoms, then haul near to that island, and these depths will continue through the channel in steering out to S.W. seaward, past the S.E. point of Penang and Pulo Eemo. The greatest depths are near the East sides of these islands, which are steep-to, but on the East side of the channel the water shoalens suddenly upon the edge of the Kra Flat. After passing Pulo Eemo close on the East side, the course is

about S.S.W., or S. by W., according to the set of the tide, to proceed throngh the channel fairway between the Kra Flat on the port hand, and the mud bank off the South end of Penang to starboard. The leading mark is to keep the body of Pulo Jerajah on with the East end of Pulo Eemo, if Pulo Jerajah is shutting in with Pulo Eemo, a ship will be on the West side ; and if entirely open with it, she will be on the East side of the channel.

The mouth of the River Krian is in about lat. 5° 16' N. This river serves as one of the roads down which the tin is brought from the mines in the

The State of Perak,* extends along the coast from Wellesley Province to the State of Salangore, or from 1 to 2 miles southward of the mouth of the Kutong Eiver to the mouth of the Bernam Eiver, a distance of about 100 miles. A portion of this coast line, however, belongs to Great Britain, having been ceded in the year 1826, and the cession again ratified in the year 1874. This includes the Island of Pancore, or Binding, and coast of the mainland at the back of the island, and thence for about 20 miles to the northward. The Bruas and Binding Eivers enter the sea within its bound-

The district of Laroot is situated to the northward of this British territory, and is bounded on the North by the Krean Eiver. The physical aspect of the district is thus described by Mr. Birch : - " From the sea-shore to some 20 miles inland, Laroot is a great level ; here it begins to rise in uplands until it reaches a mountain-range rising to an altitude of some 3,000 ft. above the level of the sea. This level or plain is well watered and well suited for the cultivation of sugar, tapioca, tobacco, &c. Eice is the only cereal now cultivated. The whole of the land, comprising a strip of about 50 miles long by 6 miles broad, along the Laroot Eange, is more or less stanniferous, and the supply of tin is inexhaustible. At present (1872) about 4 square miles are occupied for mining purposes, and there are 120 mines open. It is unskilfully worked, and only about 600 tons were exported in 1874. Of the Laroot Eange, Gunong Buboo, or the 'Wild Man,' is said to be the loftiest. It is said to be the most conspicuous landmark to mariners beating up the Straits for the mouth of the Perak Eiver, which is several miles South of this mountain."

The population of the State of Perak, which extends eastward as far as the Malayan chain of mountains, was estimated to number 25,000 in 1874, mostly established near the shores of the Perak Eiver, which passes through the country in a direction from North to South at a distance of about 30 miles from the coast. It is from this Eiver Perak or Pera (silver) that the country takes its name. The country is plentiful in fruit-bearing and timber-

* Pronounced like " Pera," the terminal k in Malay -words being scarcelj' sounded at all.

producing trees, among the latter class being the teak. India-rubber and gutta-percha trees are also found. In minerals, iron, saltpetre, and gold, ai*e found, besides the tin before mentioned.

Pry River enters the sea on the southern side of the point, lying E.S.E. of Peuang, Here it is high water, full and change, at 12\ Springs rise 9 ft.,

The Kutong River, in lat. 5° 6' N., is merely a southern outlet to the Eiver Krean, and flows along the South side of the North Mound.

The River Laroot, rising in the neighbourhood of Gunong Hijau in the River. Mr. Irving says : - *' Compared with other rivers on the coast, it is an inconsiderable stream, as the range of mountains which forms the watershed of the peninsula, at' this place, approaches the coast. The colonial steamer Pluto, drawing only 6 ft. of water, was not able to do more than enter the river ; but the small steamers belonging to the Tunku Man- trie, or headman, are able to get up to the town, a distance of 2 miles from the coast." The town, in 1872, was surrounded with stockaded positions, and Mr. Irving observed that there was an excellent road all the way to the mines in the Laroot Eange, about 10 miles from the town. The coast of Laroot between the Kurow, 20 miles northward of the Laroot Eiver, and the Jurom Mas (or Gold Needle), 12 miles to the southward, is a perfect network of rivers and rivulets, and indented by endless creeks and bays, which afford countless sheltering places for pirates. Most of these creeks and inlets have been explored by the boats of the Thalia and the Midge, when in search for pirates in 1872, under Captain Woolcombe.

The Kurow Eiver enters the sea in 5° N., and 10 miles south-eastward of it is the mouth of the Silensing. This latter river is connected with the six outlets to the sea between it and the Jurom Mas Eiver, in lat. 4° 33' N. These outlets are named in order, Besar, Kechil, Larut, Trong, and Jurom Mas. About 1 mile South of the Jurom Mas is the mouth of the small river Hut. Between this and the mouth of the Bruas Eiver, which is situated 4 miles to the south-westward, is the northern boundary of the British

North Mound, which is 5 or 6 miles South of the Krean Eiver, and at 13^ miles further to S.E. by E. is another called the South Mound. Further in- land high mountains are seen, which extend to the southward.

The Coast is fronted by an extensive shoal, which commences in the strait insulating Penang, and which. South of that island, is called the Great Kra Plat, the 5-fathoms line being as much as 12 miles from the beach. This extensive mud-bank, the produce of the many rivers, before mentioned, which enter the sea from the adjacent coast, gradually bhoalens to the shore,

leaving a wide space, which covers and uncovers with the tide, and continues with varying break for 54 miles, till its outer edge comes close to the land at Pulo Tallong, near the hills known as False Binding, or False Suggur. The outer edge of the bank is steep-to, decreasing suddenly from 13 to 12 fathoms to 2 or 3 fathoms, so that it would be imprudent to stand nearer than that depth, even with the lead kept briskly going, especially in the night. There is some advantage in keeping in with the coast, for by doing so the westerly current usually prevailing in the ofRag will be partly avoided. The winds will also be more favourable, and anchoring easier than in deeper water.

BINDING ISLAND, or PULO PANCORE, before mentioned as forming a portion of British Territory, was examined together with the channel on its eastern side by Commander Napier, in H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876. The miles broad. Off its S.W. end is Little Binding Island, sheltering a bay ; off its N.W. end runs a narrow promontory, 1^ mile long ; and midway be- tween the promontory and Little Dinding Island a narrow island 1^ mile long juts out on its western side. The highest part of the island is 1,318 ft. high, and situated about 2 miles S.E. of the N.W. point. On the North and South extremes are two hills, respectively 748 and 992 ft. high. Two other mountains rise near the centre of the island, and attain a height of more

Great Dinding Island is densely covered with jungle. The woods consist of ebony, sandal wood, several varieties of gum, india-rubber, and palm- trees, bamboo, and several native woods, some of which are similar to ma- hogany ; coffee and cotton are also grown here. The whole of the woods are farmed out by the colonial government at an annual rental. The popu- lation in 1876 consisted of about 250 Bataks or Malayan native hill tribes, and 100 Chinese. A Dutch fort formerly existed on the East side of the island. Poultry, eggs, and occasionally pigs, may be procured at most of the native villages at reasonable prices. Fish and fruit are plentiful ; turtle in the season. Fresh water of good quality is plentiful at almost all the villages, but owing to want of proper conduits can only be obtained in small quantities.

North Entrance. - The passage between the North side of Pulo Pancore and the main is divided into two channels by the North Bank, which shows breakers in places. This bank is 4 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and from half a mile wide at its southern end, opposite the mouth of Din- ding River, on the mainland, to 1^ mile wide at its North end, near which lies Wedge Rock, 3 ft. above water, N. by E. i E., If mile from North West Islet, which lies 5 cables N. by W. h W. from the North point of Pulo Pan- core, is wooded, 100 ft. high, and difficult to discern until close. A 3-feet rock lies nearly a cable off its West side, otherwise it is steep-to all round.

A smnll islet, 7 ff. liigli, lies iu the channel nearly midway between North West Islet and Pulo Pancore.

Between the North Bank and the bank skirting the shore there is a chan- nel, suitable for vessels of not more than 10 ft. draught of water; but the passage is difficult, and should not be attempted without local knowledge. Pass Tanjong Hantu, a projecting point, 11 cables N.E. by N. of Wedge Island, at about 2 cables distant on a S. ^^ E. course, after which steer S.S.E. ^ E. ; this course will lead direct to the centre of Dinding Eiver passage, and in not less than 4 fathoms water. H.M.S. Nassau, drawing 13 feet, passed through the channel at three-quarters flood.

The channel westward of North Bank is not recommended for vessels of large draught, for although with care and attention not less than 4 fathoms water will be obtained, the passage is narrow, being only 2 cables wide in the narrowest parts, and the leading marks are not of the best description. The eye, however, is the surest guide.

Give a wide berth to North bank, the western limit of which bears North from the N.W. point of Pulo Pancore. To clear this and the outlying 3- fathoms patch 7 cables W.S.W. of Wedge Eock, the North peak of Pulo Pancore should not be brought to bear southward of S.E. ^ S. North West Islet will be sighted ahead on this bearing, and passing it on the starboard hand at half a cable distant, steer E. by S. f S. for Offlying Rock, 2 ft. high, near North Point. Between North-west Point and North Point, which are 3 cables apart, a rocky bank projects 1^ cable to the northward, at the ex- tremity of which is Grasshopper Islet, 120 ft. high and wooded. Pass Off- lying Rock also on the starboard hand, at half a cable distant ; then alter course quickly to starboard, and bring the summit of North West Islet to bear W. by N. f N., and midway between Offlying Rock and North Point. This mark will lead a cable North of Bower Patch, and 1 cable South of a projecting part of North Bank. When Scorpion Point (which forms the eastern entrance point of the large bay indenting the North side of Dinding Island) bears S. W., alter course to starboard, and bring Table Rock, lying to pass the latter one, or 1^ cable distant ; and thence, preserving the same distance from the island, to the anchorage off Port Pancore.

Charyhdis Rock, a pinnacle having a depth of 2 ft., lies North IJ cable from Scorpion Point. The 2-fathom bank surrounding it extends a quarter of a cable farther North. The ground is foul between Charybdis Rock* and Scorpion Point.

East of Scorpion Point, and also fills the bay formed to the N.E. of Table

Boiver Patch, having a depth of 15 ft., is nearly circular, about half a mile in diameter, and lies N. by W. J W., 3 cables from Scorpion Point. The

summit of North-west Islet, in line with North Point, leads on to Bower Patch. The summit open of North Point, and bearing W. by N. | N., leads North of Bower Patch in 4 fathoms least water.

If bound to Binding Rivei*, keep North West Islet bearing "W. by N. f N., and when Scorpion Point bears S.W., sheer out a little to the southward, to give the S.E. extreme of North Bank a wider berth, and bring the leading mark on again before the tongue of South Bank is approached.

The South Channel lies between the eastern side of the island, which is al- most steep-to, and the bank which extends about a mile off the main.

point of Pulo Pancore ; a sunken rock, having less than 6 ft. water, lies half a cable from its North side, and a depth of 4 fathoms near the West side of the rock. There are 9 to 1 6 fathoms water between the rock and the main- land, and 10 to 23 fathoms between the rock and Pulo Pancore.

Pulo Katta, N.E. by E. 3^ miles from Eairway Rock, is a small wooded islet, 114 ft. high, standing on the edge of the bank near Tanjong Katta, and is separated from the mainland by a shoal and rocky passage 3 or 4 cables wide.

To reach Port Pancore from the southward, having passed Fairway Roi k and Pulo Katta, steer to bring Table Rock in line with Tanjong Hantu bearing N. by W. \ W. : keep these marks in line, which will lead nearly mid-channel to the anchorage off Port Pancore.

If wishing to enter Binding River, steer from the anchorage to pass Table Rock 2 cables distant, and thence midway between East Bank and the island, until the North summit of Pulo Pancore bears S.W. h S. ; then bring the summit of North-west Islet bearing W. by N. | N. open of North Point, and proceed on that course to the entrance of the river.

Abreast of Port Pancore there will be found secure anchorage for vessels of large draught, and sufficient space for several vessels to moor. The best berth is with the shore end of the pier bearing W.N.W., distant 3 cables, in 8 fathoms, mud. In this berth the vessel will be distant 3 cables from the edge of East Bank, the shoal which skirts the mainland adjacent. Bathing is unsafe on account of the numerous alligators which swim across the

It is high water full and change in Binding Channel at S*" 15" ; springs rise 9 ft., neaps 5 ft. The flood stream in the North entrance sets fairly through the channel. In Binding Channel and South entrance the ebb seta

To the S.W. of Pulo Pancore the flood sets S.E., and ebb N.W., and sets through the narrow passage between Pulo Pancore Laut and Pulo Pancore at the rate of 2 to 3J knots at springs.

There is anchorage in the bays on the western side of Binding Island,

Binding River, perhaps the only river without a bar in Malacca Strait,

has a deep and clear entrance, which between Mehegan and Motts Points is 8 cables wide. A channel 3 cables wide, and having: 5 to 9 fathoms, extends 3 miles up the river, the farthest point reached by the surveying parties. The water shoals more gradually towards the North shore than to\vards the South, which is rocky. Yellow Cliff, 14 ft. high, and Bed Cliff, 26 ft. high, both on the South side of the river, are conspicuous. On the North shore of Binding Eiver, at the West side of the entrance of Sungie Sumpit (small river) is situated a police station, a conspicuous bungalow standing on a spit, and easily recognised by the palm trees westward of it. On the South shore of Binding Eiver, opposite the police station, is a native village. The flood and ebb tides set at the rate of 3^ knots at springs, and 2 knots at neaps. Birections for approaching it from the Binding Channel are given previously.

The southern boundary of the British territory is in the bay 2 miles East of Pulo Katta.

The Sambilang Islands are 8 miles South of Binding. They are so called from the Malay word for nine, their number. They are generally high and bluff, covered with trees, and visible 20 miles off.

The White Roch, 15 ft. high, is the south-westernmost of the Sambilangs, high above the water, is 1 mile North from it. The Sambilangs are quite bold-to, with very deep water, 15 to 46 fathoms, and very irregular bottom, BO that the lead is no guide in approaching them. There is a safe channel inside them.

The RIVER PERAH, or Perak,* is an extensive stream, and is much fre- quented by the country vessels trading for tin. Mr. Birch, in one of his last speeches made at Singapore, speaks about this river in these terms: - " The river is a very magnificent one. At least 150 miles from the mouth, it is over 400 ft. wide, and, as the tidal influence extends a very short dis- tance from its mouth, it may be well imagined what rich and fertile lands are to be found along its valley. The greatest resources of this fine district lie in its soil, which is remarkably rich and suitable for the cultivation of tobacco, sugar, or indigo."

A vessel entering Perah Eiver should close the North coast, and having passed Pulo Katta, bring the South point of Pulo Pancore, or Great Bin- ding, to bear N.W. by W. \ W., and nearly touching the North point of Little Binding Island. This mark will lead over the bar in 11 ft. at half- tide neaps, and 17 ft. at high water springs, and past the outer clump of

* It was at Passir Salah, a town on this river, about 70 miles from its mouth, that Mr, Birch, the British Resident, met his death at the hands of the natives. The murder took place in November, 1875, at a time of great excitement, caused by the struggles of two rival claimants for the throne of Purah, after the death of Sultan Ali.

fishing-stakes at about three-quarters of a mile on the starboard hand ; the bar is (January, 1876,) situated N.E. by E. from these stakes*

Keeping the same marks in line, a second clump of fishing stakes is passed on the starboard hand about a quarter of a mile distant ; then alter course gradually to starboard, and pass between this clump and another large clump bearing E. by S. Passing the latter at a quarter of a mile distant, the vessel should steer along the bank for the point on the North side of the entrance, keeping about a half or three-quarters of a mile off shore, and passing out- side some small fishing-stakes moored close to the bank, until the mouth of the river is reached. Avoid the first point on the port hand, as there is a long spit extending ofi" it, and steer over to the South or left bank of the river, keeping it at a distance of 50 to 70 yards, as there is a slioal in the centre of the river.

Between the entrance of the river and Kota Striah, distant 25 miles from the bar, on the route recommended, soundings of 2^ to 5 fathoms will have been obtained. There is anchorage off Kota Striah, in 3 J to 4 fathoms, stiff mud, at 2^ cables from the shore.

Durian Sahatang, a town of eighty or ninety houses, the highest point which may be reached by gun-vessels drawing 11 ft., is 43 miles from the entrance. The trade, which is chiefly in tin, is in the hands of the Chinese, and is carried on entirely by junks.

Bandar Bahru, the site of the British Residency, is estimated to be 19 miles above Durian Sabatang. Kota-Lumut is the highest point steam launches can reach.

Bernam River, 12 miles southward of Perah River, is the boundary be- tween the States of Perah and Salangore. It has been for years the resting place of pirates, but in 1870, after some severe fighting, they were dislodged, and it is hoped that by an occasional visit of one of H.M. gunboats, the practice may be checked for the future. The river extends about 150 miles

PULO JARRA lies in the middle of the Strait of Malacca, bearing S. ^ W. 78 miles from Penang, and 26^ miles W. by S. from the Sambilang Islands. It is about 300 ft. high, very small, covered with trees, and may be seen in all directions for 20 or 25 miles. It is very steep-to, the lead affording no

- In June, 1876, the Ringdove crossed the bar at high water neaps with the same marks, had 25 ft. least water at one hour before high water ; the outer fishing-stakes bore S. by E. The channel of deepest water is probably very narrow, and it may shift. Navigating- Lieutenant Pownal Aplin, H.M.S. Modeste, 1876, remarks, that vessels of 9 ft. draught may always enter at high water. Ships of greater draught should not attempt it except at springs, unless in cases of urgency. The best channel in 1861 was 1 mile South of Pulo

indication of its proximity. The depths around it are from 14 to 48 fathoms, with 25 to 30 fathoms in the channel between it and the Sambilangs ; and from 30 to 40 in the channel between it and the Brothers, 39 miles to the S.S.W. It is best to pass to eastward of it, because the current often sets strong to theN.W. in the middle of the strait, and calms are more prevalent

SALANGORE,'^-' the capital of the Malayan State extending from Bernam River tu Langat Eiver, lies within the entrance of a small river at 60 miles fc>.E. trom Pulo Sambilang. The town was founded at the commencement of the last century by a colony of Bugis from Celebes, and was at one time frequented for tin, for which the Dutch had here an establishment and monopoly. The fort on the South side of the entrance to the river is in lat. navigable at high water for vessels of some burden, and H.M.S. Rinaldo, piratical attack which had been made in a junk from Penang, when thirty- four persons were murdered. They found the bar 2 miles in width at high water, and grounded at low water when anchored in front of the town. Captain Bloomfield, who examined the river in 1871 up to where it ceases to be tidal, at 22 miles from its mouth, reports that vessels drawing more than 1 0 ft. water should not attempt to enter the river until more accurate surveys are made. H.M.S. Pluto ascended the river 13 miles, or to 1 or 2 miles above Quedah. The spring tide was running very strong, with a rise and fall of 15 ft. There is anchorage abreast of the river at 3| to 5 miles off shore, in from 4 to 7 fathoms, with Cape Caran bearing N.W., and Pulo water, at full and change, about 5 hours.

The False Parcelar Hill, or BuTcit Jerom, is close to the shore, and 7 miles from Salangore. It is sometimes called the Hill of Salangore. In pass- ing it, it scarcely seems higher than a clump of trees. Its sides are covered with cocoa-nut trees, and its summit by a grove of senna trees. Off it lies a line of islets and rocks, running to S.W. by 8. for 3i- miles. They were for- merly called the Botel (or Bottle) Islands. The innermost is Fulo Besar, and the outer one is Pulo Tekolo. At a mile, or further from it, is a rock, on which the Calcutta brig was lost. It bears S.W. ^ S. from it, and should not be approached too nearly ; there are 5 fathoms water close to it.

From the outer reef (sometimes also called the Sail Shoal), Pulo Anzas, on

* It is prohable that within a few years more trade may be done on the coast of Salan- gore. Under the advice of the British Resident, the Sultan issued a proclamation in March, 1876, declarint'- it illegal for any, save those properly authorized, to levy taxes on merchandize. Hitherto vessels passing np and down the river have paid heavily to different chiefs, who converted the mouty to their own use.

the opposite side of the channel, bears W. by S. 3 miles. There are two of them standing upon the eastern edge of the shoal which limits the strait to the westward. (They are the Mudancoos, or Mud and Goose, of the old charts.) The bank and the islets are steep-to. The bank extends for 13 miles to N.W. by N. from them, and gradually shoalens from 2 and 3 fa- thoms up to Pulo Colong (or Callam), the North point of which is 10 miles S.E. by E. from the Pulo Anzas.

At 80 miles from the Sambilangs, and 30 miles from Salangore, is a pro- jecting point, formed by the islands of Colong or Callam and Lamaut, for- merly called Cape Coran, or Tanjong Aivat, or Mud Point. A shoal bank fronts it for 2^ miles from it, and therefore caution is necessary. This bank of sand and broken shells stretches for 15 miles to N.N.W., and is 6J miles from shore. On its edge and between it and the shore, the depths are 5 and 4 fathoms, and as they decrease the bottom becomes hard. After the Sam- bilangs disappear, the False Parcelar, or Hill of Salangore, will come in sight to the S.E. by E., or rather more eastward. The ship will then be in 10 fathoms, green mud, and should steer along the coast to S.E. in not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When Cape Caran bears East, the beach may be neared with safety, but should have a berth of 2 miles, after which the lead will be a sufficient guide.

Pulo Colong, with Pulo Liimaut to the South of it, forms a channel called the Strait of Callam, or Colong, which was formerly used by ships of mode- rate draught in order to avoid the dangers of the North and South Sands. It is still used by the local steamers. To the eastward of Pulo Lumaut two rivers enter the Lumaut Strait. The Callang or Klang is said to be navigable for vessels of light draught, 15 or 20 miles, as far as Damar, and for boats by poling as far as the neighbourhood of the tin mines. Langat River enters the strait at about 6 miles to the southward. To the northward of Par- celar Hill, "in 2° 50' N., the river bifurcates, near Langat, the residence of the Sultan and of the British Resident ; and a second mouth is formed on the coast S.W. of Parcelar Hill, and named the Jugru River. Mr. Braddell was on this river in 1874, and says that following the river from bight to bif^ht they found 3 and 4 fathoms wherever they went. Mr. Irving, speak- ing of the district says : - " It is a magnificent country, with a fine soil and great mineralogical resources. It is watered and opened up by fine naviga- ble rivers, which run up within easy distance of the richest tin districts, situated in the watersheds of the Salangore, Klang, and Langat Rivers. It only wants security for life and property, and a few easily constructed roads, to make it burst out into exuberant life."*

* For further particulars, see a Paper in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, yol. xlvi, 1876, by W. Barrington D' Almeida, on " The Geography of Perah and Salan-

The Strait of Colong, or Callam, is about 15 miles in length between the islands, and has sufficient depth for moderate ships. It is not much used now, the less so, as it is said that pirates have been found lurking in its

Mr. Logan says : - The strait is like a large river or canal. The islands between which it lies are merely flats, and formed of black mud, covered with mangrove thickets. In steaming through it you see nothing but a wall of thick mangroves on either side. Towards the northern extremity of the thickets one place of considerable extent was quite naked, and covered with flying foxes, which have settled here for many years. The strait is (or was) used by the local steamers in passing between Singapore, Malacca, and

The following are the old directions for those who would wish to follow

To run in for Salangore and the Straits of Colong, after you have rounded the Sambilangs, steer away to the eastward E.S.E. or E. by S., and rise the low land, coming no nearer than 8 or 9 fathoms, but do not rise the beach from the deck. As you lose sight of the Sambilangs, you may see the hill of Salangore, or False Parcelar ; steer in for it, keeping the above depth, you "will soon after make the true hill, which appears like a grove of trees ; when you come nearer you cannot mistake it, as it is the only hill near the water side. In observing these directions, you will not meet with the shoal of broken shells that lies to the N.W. of Salangore, and those which follow will enable you better to avoid it.

When you can just discern Salangore Hill from the deck, bearing S.E. by E. broken oyster-shells, at 5 or 6 miles from the nearest shore. The course along shore is about S.S.E. 14 or 15 miles. The soundings on the shoal are a cast : as you deepen you will have soft ground, and the contrary as you are shoaling. "When you have sailed the above mentioned distance, allow- ing for the tides, Parcelar true Hill will be seen from the deck bearing soft ground.

the deck, steer ofi" shore to the southward, until you lose sight of the white sandy beach from the tafi'arel ; then steer to the S.E. along shore, taking care not to raise the white beach, and that will carry you clear without the shoal, in soundings not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When you have run the above mentioned distance to the S.S.E., you may then with safety raise the beach, or borrow on the shore ; but come not under 8 or 7 fathoms, soft ground, as it shoals very fast from that depth until you are past Tanjong

But to resume our instructions for sailing into Salangore. After you have seen the low land beyond Tanjong Awat, you may be guided by the lead, giving that point a berth of a mile, or 1^ mile, to avoid the shoal which stretches from it. To run into Salangore Eoad, you keep the hill a little open to the southward, and anchor a little to the northward of it, in 4 or 3^ fathoms, soft mud, as there is a shoal to the southward projecting 1^

Going to the Straits of Colong, steer for Pulo Anzas, and to the eastward of them you will then see the entrance, or North mouth of the straits. The Pulo Anzas are bold-to, but the islands, which are on the eastern side of the channel, are the reverse. Off the southern or outermost island, Pulo Tekolo, lies a dangerous rock, bearing from it S.W. ^ S. a mile distant, and with 5 fathoms close to it. On the S.W. of the channel there is a sand-bank, but on the other side it is mud. "When you are past the above islands, ap- proach nearer the sand-bank than when you leave hard soundings ; on the opposite part stand on at pleasure.

A little to the northward of the North entrance of the straits lies a shoal, to avoid which, as well as to keep in the best channel, you are to keep the Middle Botel Island in one with Salangore Hill, observing not to open the hill to the eastward ; another leading mark is to keep Parcelar Hill on the West point about its own breadth. After passing this shoal you may be guided by the lead on this side, keeping in from 5 to 9 fathoms. There is also another shoal in a line of direction from Mud and Goose Islands to the West point, but of no great extent.

In working up the first reach there is no danger, having good water from side to side, which at the upper end of the reach is very deep, with irregular soundings from 12 to 22 fathoms. The opening that is on the port hand at the bottom of this reach is the Eiver Colong or Klang ; opposite to which is Deep-water Point, the South point on the starboard hand, of the first

The second is Bar Peach, which is clear while abreast of a creek on the port side, opposite to which is the shoalest part of the bar ; before you come up to this creek, you meet with another, which it is necessary to avoid, as there is an indraught. It will be best to anchor about a cable's length, in 6 fathoms, before you cross the bar, as it shifts very much, and of course it is requisite to sound. On our sounding we found 3 fathoms at low water the greatest depth, which is a little more than a third over from the S.E. side : you will carry 3 fathoms about twice the ship's length after being over. A good leading mark is some low land just open with the first point ; you may stand till it is two sails' breadths open, and close it on the other shore ; but the best and safest mark for crossing the bar is to bring Deep-water Point to bear N.E. J E. ; you may also be guided by the lead, which cannot be done on the opposite side, being a bank steep to that extends along and across

about one-third over to the western point of the Third Eeach, and from thence up to the northern extremity of a creek, in that reach, your soundings are

The bar is narrow, and begins at the entrance of the first creek, on the S.E. shore, having the least water about half a cable's length to the S.W. ; you then deepen it from 3 to 5 fathoms gradually, and will be abreast of the second creek.* From this you carry not less than 5^ fathoms, about a large cable's length from the port shore. Keep nearly that distance till you pass Point Anna Grabs (so called from a small ship wrecked here), as it is shoal on the starboard side, hard ground, with overfaUs. Indeed, you must avoid for the same reason, the starboard shore, until you are beyond the second opening to the sea.

The tide flows about 9 ft. in the springs.

PARCELAR HILL, or Bukit Jugru, a great leading mark, stands in lat. One-fathom Bank, and 10 miles eastward from the southern entrance of the Colong Strait. It is 890 ft. high, of oblong form, sloping at each end when viewed from the westward, with the summit a little to the westward of its centre ; but of a regular pyramidal form when seen from the southward or S.S.E., with very gentle declivities in each direction. It is darker in appear- ance than the neighbouring hills. In front of it, to the S.W., is the Jugru mouth of the Langat River, before mentioned.

The NORTH SANDS, which lie ofi" the Malay coast between Salangore and Parcelar Hill, are extensive and dangerous. Their north-western edge have been surveyed by Captain Ross, and his chart shows them as several parallel ridges of sand, trending fromN.W. and N.N.W. to S.E. and S.S.E., with deeper water, from 8 to 14 fathoms, between them. The north-western edge of their most dangerous part lies 21J miles W.S.W. from Salangore. These patches have from 4 to 18 ft. water, with 7 to 10 fathoms on either side. They extend south-eastward for 18 miles, leaving a channel, 3 miles in width, between their extremity and the shoal which extends from Pulo Colong, and which has from 5 to 14 fathoms of water. The chart is the best guide for their position and character, and the various patches need not be enumerated, as it is difiicult or impossible to give clearing marks for them.

* After you pass the bar. Captain Elmore advises to " steer direct for the South point of the Sea Reach, until the North point of that reach bears West by North, to avoid the wreck of a large Portuguese ship, which bears West from that point, and lies on the eastern shore, between Anna Grab Point and the bar ; when these bearings are on, and you are 2 cables' lengths off shore, it is best to keep the eastern shore on board, to prevent the flood tide from horsing you through the opening to seaward (which I call Sea Keach), where there is no passage, being entirely choked with sand banks, dry at half ebb."

The Blenheim Shoal is one of the most dangerous of these shoals, and lies on their western edge. It nearly occasioned the wreck of H.M.S. Blenheim, when it was first discovered. It bears from One-fathom Bank light N. 15° W. dangerous patches to the E.ist and N.E. from it. It is cleared so long as Parcelar Hill does not bear northward of E.S.E.

It is high water at the N.W. head of the North Sands, on full and change,

When the Round Arroa (presently described) is seen from the mast-head edge of these sands, and will pass over spits of 8 and 10 fathoms. As these spits, which form the N.W. part of the North Sands, have 9 to 12 fathoms on their outer edges, it is advisable, when bound to the southward in con- trary winds, to keep near the western edges of the sands in working, making short tacks to the westward, and standing in to 10 or 11 fathoms, in a large ship, or to 8 and 9 fathoms in a small one. By this means moderate depths will be found for anchoring during the ebb, with the tides more regular and more favourable than further out in deep water. Eor here, during S.E. winds, a current is often found to set W.N.W. and westward when tides are prevailing along the edge of the sands. The strength of the ebb generally sets between N.W. and N.W. by N. 2^ miles an hour, the flood in the oppo- site direction, about S.E. ^ S., standing a little on the western edges of the sands, or running nearly parallel with them, but it is not so strong as the

The ONE-FATHOM BANK, which forms the S.W. part of the North Sands, and is also on the North side of the channel between the North and South Sands, was considered as the most dangerous shoal of the vicinity. According to Lieut. Ward's survey, it is about IJ mile N.N.E. to S.S.W., and 1 mile broad E.N.E. and W.S.W. It has 6 ft. least water. By keeping Parcelar Hill E. % S., the North end will be cleared, andE. \ S. the southern edge will be passed safely.

The Lighthouse, on screw iron piles, is painted in stripes of red and slate- colour. It is placed on the centre of the bank, in 15 ft. water, half a mile S. by E. of the position occupied by the lightvessel previous to May, 1874, when a revolving bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every minute, was first exhibited from the lighthouse. It is shown at 61 ft. above the sea

mile N.W. from the lighthouse.

There is a safe channel between the One-Fathom Bank and the Blenheim Shoal, but there is a small 21 -feet bank midway between them, with 7 to 16 fathoms around it. It lies 6^ miles N. by W. I W. from One-Fathom Bank lighthouse ; and a second bank of similar depths lies 2 miles S.E. of it, and nearly, is the best course to pass between these banks and the One Fathom Bank. This channel has not been used by large ships, as the tides run in strong eddies over the sands during spring tides. A better course is to steer so as to pass southward of the lighthouse.

The ARROA ISLANDS form the western side of the main channel of the Strait of Malacca past the North Sands. They are a group of small islets and rocks on an extensive shoal which lies in the middle of the strait. The 100° 36' 5" E. It is of considerable height above the water, with regular soundings very near the rocks that front it of 8 and 9 fathoms mud.

East Rock, or Batu Ifandi, is a flat black rock, very little above the surface of the sea. It has deep water close on its eastern side. It lies somewhat oflf the mud bank, as it has a deep channel of 17 fathoms three-quarters of a mile wide to the West of it, between it and a line of sunken rocks, covered at half flood, on which the sea breaks at times.

The Htffh Rock, or JBafu Balia, lies 2 miles West from the sunken reef just mentioned. It is surrounded by other rocks, and there are 9 fathoms in the space between, with 7 to ] 0 fathoms in the channel West of it.

Pulo Jummur, the Great or Long Arroa, is the largest of the group. It consists of two islands nearly joined, is covered with trees, flat, and is nearly 3 miles S.W. by S. from the North rock. It is nearly a mile long, and the shores appear to be lined with rocks, and a re*/ extends to the N.E. from it for about three-quarters of a mile. The Malay fishermen come here for fish and turtle. Boats landing should therefore be on their guard. Water can be got in a cove with a good sandy beach, on the East side of the South isle. Several springs of good water fall into the deep valley. The Western Arroa is a group of islets and rocks lying about a mile to the westward of the Lono- Arroa, and on the same rocky bank.

The Round Arroa, or Pulo Tukong Simbang, the chief mark for the channel to the eastward, is very small, high, round, and has a tuft of trees on each side of it. It may be seen 1 8 miles ofi". It has several rocky islets near it two of which are visible 12 miles oS' ; one of these lies to the northward the other to the southward, with straggling rocks around. The South Rock, or Pulo Tukong, the southernmost islet or rock, above water, is IJ mile S.S.W. from the Round Arroa.

The Arroa Islands should not be approached by night, as there is now no necessity for it, since the light on the opposite side of the channel is

established. The currents and ebb tides set very strongly here, and might horse you among them. Should a vessel be working near them against a heavy N. W. swell, there is shelter from N.W. or westerly winds by anchor- ing under the Long Arroa, guarding against the reef which projects a mile to E.N.E. from its North end.

In sailing down the Malacca Strait from the northward, and having got in mid-channel between Pulo Jarra and the South Sambilang, keeping to the eastward to guard against the easterly tendency of the current, steer on the North Sands. Excepting a shingly spot of 13 fathoms in lat. 3° 20' N., bearing South from the Sambilangs, the soundings are tolerably regular on this track generally between 31 and 40 fathoms in the direct line. Should the winds hang to the eastward or E.S.E., keep in with the Malay coast in. from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 8 or 10 leagues past the Sambilangs; then steer more southerly to get soundings of 16 to 18 fathoms on the N.W. face of the North Sands, which may be rounded close, provided you do not come into less than 14 or 16 fathoms, and then either the Arroa Islands or the light- vessel, or Parcelar Hill, will come in view, and will be a further guide.

The SOUTH SANDS, like those forming the North Sands, are a series of parallel spits which run E.S.E. and W.N.W., or more southerly in the same direction as the Malay coast, and 13 or 14 miles distant from it. The main channel on the North side of them having that breadth, and a depth of from 20 to 40 fathoms (with some exceptions), extends for 60 miles from the One- Fathom Bank Light to Cape Eachado. The South Sands vary in width from 2 to 6 miles. The northernmost dangerous patch, with 16 ft. water, is 102 miles S. by E. ^ E. from the lightvessel, and the south-easternmost is a small patch of hard sand, named on the chart the Pyramid, with 6 ft. least water. From it Cape Eachado appears like an island, bearing E. ^ S., and from 5 to 9 miles further S.S.E. are several patches of 15 to 4 fathoms. These eastern patches are the most dangerous part of the shoal of Malacca, and require all caution. On the North side of the channel is the Bambek Shoal, awash, which is 21 miles from Parcelar Hill, and 14 miles from Cape

The space between the Sumatran shore and the South Sands is full of shoals and dangers, and should never be attempted.

It is high water at full and change at the One-Fathom Bank at 6 o'clock. Springs rise 15 ft., and neaps 12 ft. The tide runs strongly at springs, and then there are eddies on the spit which projects from the One-Fathom Bank. Between the sand heads the strength of the ebb runs nearly N.W., but the commencement and end of it run very irregularly. The flood is more regular in its direction, and runs with less velocity. The light is found to be most useful in these strong tide ways, when, if the land

be not visible, the navigation would be as formerly, very embarrass-

The CHANNEL between the North and South Sands, which has been known by the name of the East and West Channel, - a term probably derived from the fact that the leading marks through it lay East and West of each other. It is about 10 miles wide between the northernmost danger of the South Sands and the lighthouse; and there is a 21 -feet patch at 7^ miles S.W. by W. from the lighthouse, which requires caution.

In passing through this East and West Channel, having passed the Eound Arroa and brought it to bear W.S.W., there is no danger from the North Sands, so long as it can be seeii from the deck. Then steer an easterly course away from it bearing W. J S. When the Eound Arroa sinks out of sight, the lighthouse will come in view, as will also Parcelar Hill, bearing about East. Bring the latter to bear about E. \ N., and you will pass safely to the South of the One-Fathom Bank. A course with Parcelar Hill bearing E. | S. will clear the bank. Having passed this, the channel within the South Sands is open to the south-eastward. Parcelar Hill may at times be obscured by clouds, when the low land at the entrance of the Strait of Colong may be seen. If this piece of low land be kept N.E. by E. J E., or its East end be brought to E.N.E., you will clear the banks in coming from the eastward. This low land comes in sight when abreast of the One-Fathom Bank, and from aloft the tops of the trees may be seen as far as Parcelar

* Several wrecks having taken place on the South Sands, the following extracts from remarks by Mr. G. J. Maddock (pilot) will prove useful ; - "I will now endeavour to give an account of the chief cause of ships being lost on the South Sands. First, with respect to the loss of the John Curry, Captain Tucker, in January, 1854. From the wreck, Par- celar Hill bore N.E. by N. ; when conversing with Captain Tucker, and informing him that the current and tide out of Calam Strait had been the cause of the loss of his ship, he acknowledged that such must have been the case from the set which he noticed after the ship had struck. About two months afterwards, a large Dutch Indiaman, the Menado, got on shore under similar circumstances in the night, and, strange to say, within a cable's length of the spot where the John Curry was lost. I also met the captain of the Menado in Singapore, and he acknowledged that my version of his loss was correct, as he could not account for it in any other way. Some time afterwards, strange to relate, one of H.M. ships, the Andromeda, came to grief in the same locality. In passing up and down the straits some time before, I noticed this set of the tide, or perhaps rather an under current, and always kept correct bearings of the Parcelar, and on a dirty night or when dark, was invariably able to pick out an anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms ; but these observations are nearly useless now, for there is a light on the One-Fathom Bank (North Sands), and if the Government place a second light on the South Sand Head, the principal dangers can be easily avoided. There are nights, however, when all these advantages will be found use- less - at short intervals during the north-westers and Sumatras."

The Malay Coast about Parcelar Hill forms a slight bay, instead of a con- vexity, as was shown on the old charts, an error which led to some disaster. This bay, at the head of which the southern mouth of the Langat Eiver is situated, is filled with a shallow bank, and at about 9 miles southward from the hill is a slight projection named Parcelar Point, not easily distinguished on the low land of Parcelar of the old charts. It continues low and woody to the E.S.E. for 15 miles, to the N.W. limit of a bight, of which Tanjong Kamuning, 7 miles farther on, is the S.E. point. Above the head of this bay is the South Hummock, 973 ft. in height, and further inland are seen some other high lands towering above the trees on the coast. This bay is filled with shoals, and a line of detached shoals lies off its mouth. These shoals are formed by the debris brought down by the Eiver Lukut, which left bank, is the town of Lukut.

The Bambek Shoal lies midway between Parcelar Point and Cape Ea- chada, on the line joining their extremities, and 3 miles off the N.W. point of the bay just mentioned. This shoal was much dreaded by the early navi- gators, and several ships were lost on it. It is rocky, and nearly awash in the centre, and has several heads of 2^ to 3 fathoms over a space of 2^ miles E.S.E. and W.N. W., dropping to 7 and 8 fathoms at each end, and having 10, 12, and 15 fathoms close outside it, so that the lead by night does not afford a very safe guide on approaching it. The dangerous Pyramid Shoal, the south-easternmost of the South Sands, is also difficult to avoid by the lead, as the soundings are deep close up to it, the depth of the strait being very irregular throughout its breadth. This danger is not lessened by the streno-th and irregularity of the tides, which set in various directions among the channels between the South Sands. The ground is all oaze, except about the middle of the channel.

The shoal which runs north-westward from Tanjong Kamuning is 2° 32' N. above mentioned, has an opening through it abreast of that cape, upwards of a mile and a half in width, and the shoal continues in a direction parallel with the coast as far as Cape Eachada, 8 miles to the south-eastward, and at from a mile to H ^i^^ from it, leaving a channel inside it, having a depth of from 6 to 12 fathoms. A small island, Arrang-Arrang, lies to the S.E. of Tanjong Kamuning.

CAPE RACHADA, or Tanjong Tuan, derived its Portuguese name from its ruo'ged, cleft character. It is 28 miles S.E. by E. from the point abreast the Parcelar Hill, and comes in sight just after passing that point. It is perpendicular toward the sea, and is something like Mount Dilly on the Malabar coast, but not so lofty.

It projects to seaward in a long narrow point of land, which forms a deep bay on each side of it, with a small rock or islet near its extremity. When first seen coming from the northward it makes like an island, for the neck

of land which joins it to the main is much lower than the cape itself. There are two wells of fresh water under the cape.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Eachada, completed in 1863, is a circular or when bearing from S.E. by E. round eastward and northward to N."W. by W. The light is elevated 446 ft., and may be seen 25 miles off.

The tides are very strong off Cape Eachada, and pass it in noisy ripplings, especially at springs, the flood to southward, and ebb to northward. This is the narrowest part of the Malacca Strait, the opposite puint of Sumatra, Ujong Bantam being only 21 miles from it.

In sailing down this portion of the strait, do not pass within a line joining Parcelar Point and Cape Eachada, nor bring Parcelar Point, the South ex- treme of the land to northward, to the southward of S. 60° E. to keep clear of the shore bank, giving Parcelar Point a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing it. When Cape Eachada or the bight is seen, keep to the eastward of S.E. by E. I E. to keep clear of the Bambek Shoal. Cape Eachada brought to bear E.S.E. is a fair mid-channel bearing throughout, standing off to the southward to E. by S. ^ S. It would be dangerous to exceed these bear- ings when the cape appears as an island. When approached within 10 or 12 miles the low neck comes in view, and the channel then becomes wider, and the boards may be continued further to the southward. Cape Eachada light kept in sight clears Bambek Shoal in the night time.

Lingey Eiver. - The coast continues somewhat to the North of East from Cape Eachada for 5 miles, and then turns to E.S.E. for 3 miles more to the mouth of the Lingin or Lingey River, a large stream visited for tin, and tute- nague, the white metal alloy used by the Chinese to imitate silver. This river is the boundary between the native state Sunghy Ujong and the British state of Malacca. Off the point to the South of this river are some small detached rocks, and the whole of the coast to the N. W. is skirted by a shoal bank and straggling rocks. A buoy marks the eastern side of the Battoo Uandi, a small shoal, which lies IJ mile S.W. by S. from the southern en- trance point of the river. E.S.E. of the buoy lies the Batto Tinga Eocks, at half a mile from the shore. At 10 miles from the mouth of the Lingin is the Diana Hock, a large rock always above water, and H mile from the shore, with 15 to 19 fathoms irregular bottom close outside it.

Tangong Kling is 22 miles S.E. by E. from Cape Eachada, and may be known by two or three trees on its extremity, more elevated than the others near the sea. The shore hereabout should not be made too free with in the night, as the soundings are deep and irregular, affording but little

On the opposite side of the strait is the Quin Shoal, discovered by Admiral

Mount Ophir peak bore from it E.N.E., the North end of Pulo Eoupat, TJjong Bantam, on the Sumatra side, West, and the South end of Pulo Eoupat

MALACCA (or Malaka), the capital of the British Province to which it gives its name, stands on both sides of a small stream, at 27 miles from Cape Eachada, and 5 miles from Tanjong Kling.

Malacca was occupied by the Portuguese in 1511, and in 1641 was taken from them by the Dutch, who surrendered it to the British in 1795. It was occupied by us till 1818, when it was restored to the Netherlands Govern- ment, by whom it was again surrendered to us in exchange for Bencoolen in

The State of Malacca extends from the Eiver Lingey, on the N.W., to theCassang, on the S.E., having a coast line of about 40 miles in length, with a mean breadth of 25 miles, which includes the interior territory of Nanning or Naning, so that it has an area of about 1,000 square miles. In 1865 the state had a total population of 71,600, chiefly Malays. At the has been considerably reduced since Singapore has risen into pre-eminence, but tin and gold are still sent to that emporium in large quantities. In 1871, tered the port.

Malacca derives its name, according to Malay history, from the Malacca tree {Phyllanthus Emhlica), and was founded in the thirteenth century.

The town of Malacca is divided by a small river into two parts, connected by bridges, one of which was given by a munificent native merchant. On the left or southern bank rises the verdant hill of St. Paul, surrounded by vestiges of the ancient Portuguese fort. Around its base lie the barracks, lines, and most of the houses of the military ; the stadthouse, courthouse, gaol, church, civil and military hospitals, the site of the old inquisition, con- vent, the police-office, school, post-ofiice, and the master-attendant's office. On its summit stand the ruins of the ancient church of Our Lady del Monte, erected by Albuquerque, the Portuguese conqueror of Malacca, and the scene of the labours and supposed miracles of that apostle of the East, St. Francis Xavier ; also the lighthouse and flagstafi". A little to the South rises the hill of St. John's, and in the rear that of St. Francis. On these eminences are still the remains of batteries erected by the Portuguese and Dutch, command- ing the eastern and southern entrances to the town. Smaller knolls inter- vene, covered with the extensive cemeteries of the Chinese.

The view of Malacca from the roads is extremely picturesque. It has the appearance of being situated in the bend of a crescent or bay ; the southern

horn of which is foraied by a chain of beautiful islets, called by the Portu- guese the Aguadas, or Water Isles, stretching out seawards from the coast. On the South side, the shore trends to the West, terminating in an elevated and well wooded point called Tanjong Kling. A few other islets stud the shore. The first objects that strike the eye are a cluster of trees crowning the summit of St. Francis, the Star fort on St. John's to the South, the lighthouse and ruinous church on St. Paul's, and the white edifices that skirt its base, stretching along the sea shore, and gradually lost in the thick groves of cocoa-nut trees that cover the dwellings of the Portuguese, Chinese, and Malays, in the suburbs of Bander Ilir, and Ujong Passir. In the back ground of this pleasing view rise the hills of Bukit Bertam, Bruang, Pan- chur, &c. To the ISlorth, in the distance frown the mountains of Rumbawe and Srimenanti, and far away to the East, the triple peak of Ophir, cele- brated for its gold, shoots into the sky with softened outline. - {Lieut. T. J.

The Lighthouse is a turret on St. Paul's Hill, as above stated, and is in it will lead clear of the Water Islands.

A red light is also shown on the pier-head at Malacca, visible 6 miles off in clear weather.

The roadstead of Malacca is perfectly safe. It is neither visited by the hurricanes of higher latitudes, nor within the influence of the monsoons ; as was said in the sixteenth c6ntury, " it is the beginning of one monsoon and the end of another.

The Road is limited to the North by Fisher Island, a small islet known formerly as Pea or Woody Island, surrounded by a shoal and foul ground, which joins with the shore. This is nearly 3 miles westward from the entrance of the river. It ought not to be approached within 9 or 10 fathoms, which is near to the edge of the shoal. With the extremes of the island a mile distant, there is a small circular shoal, having only 18 ft. on it at low water. Near to the city is Pulo Java, or Eed Island, on the edge of the shoal water. To the S.E. of this is Pulo Panjang, a rocky reef or flat, pro- jecting 1^ mile from the shore, and extending along it to Pulo Java. The church and flagstatf on the hill bear N. ^ E. from the West end of Panjang Eeef U mile distant, and from its East end N.N.W. i W. 3^ miles distant. There is a depth of 18 or 19 fathoms within 2 cables' lengths of its southern edge, similar to that in the ofiing, therefore the lead is no guide to clear it. From 20 fathoms in the offing the depths decrease regularly over a bottom of soft mud towards the road, where the best anchorage is under 10 fathoms, with the church on the hill N.E. by E., Fisher Island N.W. ^ W., and the tuft of trees East, the town I5 or 2 miles distant. When the depth exceeds

10 fathoms, the bottom is generally a stiff tenaceous clay, which holds the anchors very firmly ; under that depth it is generally of soft mud.

There is no danger going into Malacca Road ; if you are in the offing, in 20 or 23 fathoms, you shoal en your water gradually to 7 fathoms, as you ran in for the road. A large ship should not go into less than 7^ fathoms ; for it shoalens suddenly from 7 to 5 and 4 fathoms. And they should be still more careful not to go too far to the southward, or to the S.E. part of the bay, for there the ground is foul and rocky, and shoalens suddenly from 8 to 3 fathoms. Off Fisher's Island there is no danger; and it is found that a ship, upon occasion, might go within half a mile of it, in 16 fathoms water, or have 10 fathoms within a quarter of a mile, and 20 fathoms within 1 mile of it. You may anchor in Malacca Road from 13 to 7^ fathoms, oazy ground, and the outermost Water Island S.E. J S. ; you have 8 fathoms. The flag- The flagstaff N.E., and Fisher's Island N.N.W. ^ W., you have 14 fathoms, all good anchoring ground.

Ships should not anchor on the East side of the road, near Red Island, for the bottom is foul and rocky, the depth suddenly decreasing from 8 to 3 fa- thoms, on the North end of Panjang Reef.

During the period of the S.W. monsoon, sudden hard squalls frequently blow into the road from the Sumatra side in the night, accompanied with much thunder, lightning, and rain. It is high water full and change at 7^ hours ; springs rise 11 ft., neaps 8J ft. The rate is about 2 knots. The ebb and flood tides continue to run for 2 hours after high and low water by the shore, and boats cannot enter the river after half ebb. The proceed into the river soon after quarter flood, steering for the church on the hill, keeping it rather on the starboard bow ; and when the bar is approached, the channel may be discovered by the stakes in the entrance.

Malacca stands on low ground, but within, the country rises into undulat- ing hills, moderately elevated, among which is that called Bukit Barotig, 4 miles inland, in a N.E. direction.

Mount Ophir, or Gunong Ledang, may be better distinguished than the rest,

The WATER ISLANDS, or Four Brothers, are a cluster of four smaU islands and one larger, lying 6 miles south-eastward from Malacca. The outer ones are small round islands covered with trees, and the innermost, Pulo Bessar, has excellent fresh water on its eastern side, and thus gives its name to the group. This can be procured at all times, but near low water, when the shore reefs are dry.

The outermost island, Pulo Undan, is IJ mile South of the next, Pulo Nanka, and this half a mile South of the third, which has a channel above a mile wide between it and Pulo Bessar, but nearly in mid-channel there is a sunken rock. This channel may be used by ships if pressed, by carefully avoiding this rock. This may be passed in 10 to 12 fathoms water, by keeping close to the middle Brother, or to the South end of Bessar, for the rock is nearly a mile from the S.E. end of the latter, and one-third of a mile from the middle Brother. Coming from the eastward, keep the South end of Bessar N.W. until the southernmost Brother is shut in with the two

The Rob Roy Bank, so named from a ship which grounded on it during the survey, a very dangerous 6-feet shoal, 3J miles in extent, lies on the Sumatran side of the channel, opposite the "Water Islands and Malacca, from which it is distant 20 miles in a S.W. direction. It is therefore much best to keep in with the Malay shore hereabout, and not to stand off more than 10 or 12 miles, guarding against the uncertain set of the tides. The depth rather increases towards the Eob Eoy Shoal, which is steep on its northern face.

The coast south-eastward from the Water Islands is low and clean, covered with trees, and intersected by several rivers, the most noticeable of which is the Sung-ei Mnar, or Kassang, 20 miles from Malacca. It is the S.E. bound- ary of the state. Bahit Moar, or Mora, an isolated hill covered with trees, lies 9 miles to the S.E. of the river, and is just visible from Malacca Eoad. The coast, which slightly recedes, is skirted by an extensive shoal, and there- fore must be avoided. Tmyong Tor, a low level point, is about E.S.E. 33 miles from Malacca, and here the shore bank appears to be much narrower, a moderate depth being found close to the point, ;vhile the edge of the bank N.W. and S.E. of it trends in a straight direction, the land recedes into slender bays on each side.

Mount Formosa, or Gunong Batu Pahat, is more distinguishable than Mount Moar. It is the highest summit, 1,480 ft., of a long ridge of undu- lating hills near the shore, which are seen to extend inland to the N.E. Its S.W. slope forms a bluff point, Tanjong Segmting, on the western side of which is the entrance of the Sung-hei Batu Pahat, or Formosa River. A small island, Pulo Sheilo, lies off the pitch of the cape.

The strait opposite this part becomes more embarrassed with shoals, long narrow spits trending in a N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are 30 or 40 miles long within the 10-fathoms line. On the Malay side of th& strait the more dangerous are not more than 4 or 5 miles off shore, but on the Sumatran side they reach to 18 and 25 miles off. The Hannah or Formosa Shoal is the most formidable on the northern side. It lies off the foot of Mount Formosa, extending thence 7 or 8 miles, and having only 12 ft. water on its shoalest spots. Its S.E. end is 2^ miles from the point of Mount

Formosa, and its N.W. end is 5 miles from the adjacent shore. There is a channel between the shoal and the shore, but there are some dangerous spots of 18 ft. in it, one of which is about 2 miles due West of Pulo Sheilo, the islet off the Mount Formosa Cape.

The main channel of the strait abreast of the Hannah Shoal is about 10 miles in width ; beyond that distance there are the dangerous patches of the S.W. banks, which have nevertheless deep water channels between the spits. The southern edge of the Hannah Bank and the northern face of the Suma- tran Banks are steep-to, but if the lead is very carefully and briskly used, it will indicate their proximity. A long and narrow bank runs along this fairway channel with depths varying from 5 to 12 fathoms, having depths of from 15 to 25 fathoms on either side. All over the eastern and middle parts of it you have soft clay with 8 to 12 fathoms; towards the East end it be- comes harder and shoals to 5 and 7 fathoms. This bank was formerly known as the Fisang or Fair Channel Bank.

The coast south-eastward of Mount Formosa, for an extent of 40 miles, is low and wooded, with nothing remarkable except a small mound near the sea, Batu Balu, about 15 miles from Formosa. It is all fronted by mud banks from 2^ to 6 miles in breadth, the edges of which are very steep. This fea- ture is also found in all other banks of this part of the strait, caused probably by the strong currents, and is on that account a dangerous feature in its navigation. It is especially so near Pulo Pisang.

In sailing down the fairway channel from abreast of Mount Formosa at 7 miles distance to Pulo Pisang, the direct course should be S.E. by E. ; the distance is between 9 and 10 leagues. Having doubled Formosa Bank, when the mount bears N E. between 3 and 4 leagues, you will raise this island bearing E.S.E. | S., or S.E. by E., you will then have soundings from 20 to 22 or 23 fathoms, oazy ground. In turning to windward on this course, the Pisang Bank is of the greatest service both for anchoring on during the ebb, and for the purpose of keeping on, either in the night or day, during the squalls, which are generally accompanied with rain ; tor by steering along its verge, on either side, you may run the whole length of the bank without fear or danger, and upon deepening oflP the end of it may steer for mid-channel, between the Carimons and Pulo Cocob. By keeping in 11 or 12 fathoms on either edge, if you deepen your water, you know which side to steer towards ; whereas, by running along the top of the bank, if you deepen, it is uncertain on which side.

PULO PISANG or Pesang is a tolerably large and woody island, 200 ft. hifh, and a mile in diameter, which lies at 2 leagues distance from the main, and there is a channel between it and the main, in which there are not less than 4 fathoms water ; on the West side of it lie three small islands, the largest of which sometimes affords good water, and boats may land there commodiously at high water, in a bay on the N.W. part; this island may be

seen in clear -vreather 9 or 1 0 leagues off ; then it makes in three small hum- mocks, like boats turned bottom upward.

The Lighthouse constructing (1877) on Pulo Pisang is to show a light, visible between S.E. by E. ^ E. through South and West to N.W. i N.

It is high water at full and change at Pulo Pisang at 9 o'clock. The flood tide generally sets fairly through the channel from the Water Island to the Carimons at the head of the strait, and the ebb also, in the contrary direc- tion ; the rate about 2 miles at spring tides.

Pulo Pisang bears S.E. by E. 65 miles from the Water Islands, and when abreast of the outer island from 1 to 4 miles off, a S.E. by S. course will carry you about the same distance outside the Formosa Bank, if not drifted out of it by the tide.

When Mount Formosa is brought to bear about N.E., keep within 3 or at most 4 leagues of the Malay coast, to keep well clear of the middle bank on the Sumatra side, so as not to get to the southward of its N.W. end.

If the weather is clear, and Pulo Pisang be discerned, keep it between North or N. by W. in working between the North side of the Middle Bank and the Malay coast. In passing the Formosa Bank in the night, if it is found that the ship has got too far to the southward so as to be southward of the Middle Bank keep along the southern side, or you may work against a contrary wind, in the channel between this and the next bank to the south- ward, the breadth of this channel being about 2J miles, with 16 to 19 fa- thoms water. But it should be remembered that these long narrow banks, as they get nearer to the Sumatra side, have less water on them, and there- fore the most prudent course would be to cross the Middle Bank by some of the numerous channels between its shoaler parts, rather than risk being drifted to the southward into less water. This may be done when Pulo Pisang is brought to bear about N.E. by E., when a depth of 5^ to 7 fathoms will be found on the ridge. Pulo Pisang may be brought to bear S.E. by E. when standing towards the edge of the bank which skirts the coast be- tween it and Mount Formosa, excepting at about 5 miles to N.W. of that island, where it forms an elbow, and should not be approached too closely. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear N. by W., Pisang may occasionally be brought to bear E. ^ S. or East in standing towards the Middle Bank. The channel is about 10 miles broad ; during the night stand into 10 fathoms on the shore bank, and off to 18 or 20 fathoms. By day, when abreast of Mount Formosa, and Pulo Pisang is visible, bearing E.S.E. or S.E. by E. f E , steer for it ; either of these bearings will carry you in mid-channel. When near to the island, its western side and the two islets may be approached within half a mile, as they are bold close-to, with 13 to 15 fathoms within a cable's length of them. In standing off shore about 10 miles from the island you will be close to, or upon, the S.E. part of the middle bank, where

there will be 4.^- to 6i fathoms. In working past Pulo Pisang, tack about IJ or 2 miles from it in 14 to 17 fathoms, and do not stand off from it more than

Pulo Cocob (or Cocops) is 12 miles S.E. from Pisang Peak. It is a long flat island close to the Malay coast, between which and the shore is a narrow boat channel. It is covered with trees, those at the N.W. end being man- grove bushes, and more like grass ; and at the S.E. end they are tall, upright grown trees, like those on the adjoining coast. The island is 2 miles in length. At low water it is surrounded by a dry sand-bank, which extends off the N.W. extreme \h mile. Vessels may approach it within three-quarters of

Tanjong Bolus, or Burn, or Peie, the southern extremity of the Malay Peninsula, may also be taken as the western limit of the Strait of Singapore. covered with tall trees, bearing from the South point of Pulo Cocob E.S.E. 5i miles. At low water it is fronted by a dry sand-bank, and shoal water extends 1 mile from the point, which is very steep. Vessels, therefore, should be careful not to approach too close.

The CARIMON ISLANDS form the southern side of the strait opposite Tanjong Bolus, and consist of a cluster of one large and several smaller

Little Carimon extends furthest to the North. It is a high island, 2^ miles in length N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 1 mile broad. It rises in two peaks, which are ill defined and difficult to distinguish, covered with thick wood. The North end bears from Tanjong Bolus S.W. ^ W. 9 miles, the breadth of the strait, which is free from dangers (except the flat off Tanjong Bolus, before mentioned). The N.E. side of the Little Carimon having deep water close-to.

The Brothers are two small rocky islets 2| miles to the N.W. of the Little Carimon. They have deep water close to them ; but at 400 yards to the W.N.W. of the eastern islet there is a danqerous rock, just awash at low water. South by East of the East Brother, and West of the North point of the Little Carimon, is another islet of singular appearance, called the South Brother ; and S.W. I S. of this is a rock above water, named the White Rock.

Great Carimon is a high island, separated from the Little Carimon by a narrow strait, and lying to the S.W. of it near its North end ; it rises to two high peaks, 1,376 and 1,474 ft. high respectively, which are well defined and conspicuous objects, and may be seen 36 miles off. The lowest, or North peak, bearing S.E., clears the danger on the Long Middle Bank, before mentioned. To the westward of the island are several islets and rocks, both above and below the water, but which are entirely out of the track of

The description of the Strait of Singapore will be given in a future section.

We now return to the northern entrance describing the Sumatran coast of the

The COAST of SUMATRA, between Achin Head and Diamond Point, was surveyed by order of the East ludia Company, by Commander Fell, I.N., in 1x51-8, and later by the Netherlands Government in the years 1872-4, and the N.E. coast of the island thence southward by Lieut. Jackson, I.N., in 1860. These excellent surveys, combined with the previous observations of Captains Moresby, Rose, and Ward, have given us a very perfect repre- sentation of the shores of this otherwise little known island.

This side of Sumatra may be described, generally, as a vast alluvial plain, but very little above the sea level, unbroken by any great bays or inlets ; but formed at the narrowest part of the strait, of low islands. This great level expanse is 600 miles in length, and from 60 to 120 miles in breadth; an area more than half of the extent of Great Britain. It is intersected by numerous rivers, some of considerable magnitude, which, rising in the great mountain chain, lyin^ nearer to its S.W. side, or the few lakes at their base, afford almost the only clear spaie for cultivation and the habitations of the people, which are all derived from one stock - the Malayan, but divided into several families or nations, some of which have made considerable progress in civili- zation, in the arts and agriculture, as well as writing, &c ; others are of a very rude and wild class, those living in the mountainous portion of this vast island. Altogether they are estimated by Mr. Logan, the best writer on the

The whole island, except the kingdom of Achin, is nominally under the Dutch Government ; but very little power is, or can, be exercised by the few European or native representatives of that nation. The Sumatra shores of the Strait of Malacca belong to the kingdom of Achin, or Acheen, at the JSorth end ; the Batak nation, next to the south-eastward; then the Siak State, traversed by the finest river of Sumatra, bordering the narrowest and upper part of the strait.

Achin, or Acheen, ths northernmost state, is of some interest, as the spot which the earliest English navigators visited in 1602. Its chief feature is the Golden Mount, or Ya Muria, rising 7,546 ft. in height to the S.E. of the capital town, and to be seen 92 miles off. The town in early times rose ra- pidly to eminence and great commerce ; and when Dampier came here in present population of the state. Its full, subsequent to this, was equally rapid, and the sovereignty is now pa>.^iiig from the native rulers to the Dutch Government, who commenced the war on Achin in 1871. Previous to this, all the island, except Achin, was under Dutch. Government, this

state being protected by the treaty of 1824 between England and Holland, by which treaty English rights in Sumatra were exchanged for Dutch possessions, in Malacca and in the Peninsula of India, with the proviso that Achin should remain unmolested. In 1871, however, when the Dutch G-overnment gave up to us their possessions on the Gruinea Coast of Airica, this part of the treaty was cancelled, and the Achin war began ; the pretext fur the war being the many acts of piracy committed by the Atchinese. Up to October, important, and rice is one of its chief products. A portion of it is known as the Coast of Pedir, tbe produce of which is the areca nut and a little pepper.

Bafali, the next nation to the S.E., the country of the Bataks or Battas, has been partially conquered and explored by the Dutch. It is singularly unlike most other parts of the Malayan Archipelago. A considerable por- tion of it consists of a dreary, treeless, and sterile plain. The people are more strange than their country. They have a knowledge of letters, but undoubtedly are cannibals. The Dutch authorities say that those under their sway are readily dissuaded from this dreadful crime. There is very little commerce.

Siah, the third division, is but little known. Its great river has been ascended for a considerable distance, and is navigable for vessels of consider- able burden for 90 miles to the town of Siak, and for those of 200 tons for 100 miles, but it is almost closed by a sand bank.

The portions of these states unoccupied by man, or lying on the borders of the rivers, is one vast primeval forest, to clear and cultivate which is far beyond the powers or wants of its small and puny population. Its cultivated portion is the chief source of the sago of commerce ; camphor and benzoin are also produced. CoflFee cultivation has largely extended ; besides these, there are other and minor objects of trade.

ACHIN HEAD, the N.W. point of Sumatra, and the islands and pas- sages lying off it, have been described in our Indian Ocean Directory.

Pulo Brasse Lighthouse, 120 ft. high, on the N.W. point of the island, completed in 1875, is a white tower, with its upper part painted red. From it is shown a revolving light, elevated 525 ft., and visible 32 miles off to the northward and eastward between W. | S. and S.E. ^ E. An auxiliary red light, to indicate the shoals which lie to the N.W. of the lighthouse, is shown vation of 430 ft., visible 8 miles off.

Eastward 1^ mile from Palo Brasse lighthouse is a projecting point, which shelters an anchorage in Lembalei Bay, to the southward of it. The best anchorage is in about 9 fathoms off the village of Ujong Poneng, S. by W. nearly half a mile from the extremity of the projecting point. There is also

anchorage in Rots Bay, a small bay, about a mile wide on the eastern side of Pulo Nancy. It has an islet, forming its South entrance point, in lat. stream of fresh water.

Achin Head, the North part of which forms the eastern side of the Surat cliff land on its North side. At three-quarters of a mile E. by S. from the eastern extreme of the head is Pulo Tuan, a small circular islet, surrounded by dangerous rocks, which also lie between the islet and the head. A mile E.S.E.-ward of Pulo Tuan, is a shallow inlet, which receives the waters of the bears from it E. by N. J N. 6 miles ; there is no flagstaff, or any conspicuous object, to point out the entrancee of the river. The anchorage is in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bearing N. 20° E. ; Achin Head, S. 69° W. ; the shore between Achin Head and River may be ap- proached to 5 or 6 fathoms.

Pulo Btirroo, or 3Ialora, N. 36° E., 6f miles from the entrance of Achin River, is a small rocky islet, with a tree on it. It is 2f miles off shore, with soundings of 13, 9, and 12 fathoms between it and the mainland, from which the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bears N. 5° AV., the bluff' entrance near

In working along this part of the coast, attention ought to be paid to the tides, and be sure not to go out of soundings should the wind be light and un- favourable, as the soundings extend but a short distance outside Pulo Burroo. Three miles to the East of it there is no ground at 275 fathoms.

PULO WAY {i.e. Water Island), which forms the N. W. side of the Bengal Passage, is steep-to on all sides ; the nearest part of it is distant from Pulo Burroo 6^ miles. Off the South side there is a rock, situated a short distance from, the shore, on which the sea breaks, and is dry at low water. On its S.E. side there is a deep bay, with 70 fathoms water at its entrance, and 25 fathoms close to the sandy beach at the head of it.

Achin Roads, distant nearly 9 miles ; it is low, with a few trees on it, and bluff formed by the high land, which terminates in a gentle slope. Off this point the bottom is rocky, and the soundings do not extend more than \h or 2 miles from the shore. At a mile W.S.W. of it, and S.E. of Malora Island, is a small river named the ^'«??Ai<^, andS.W. 3 miles Irom this is another small stream entering the sea, and called on the charts Gigchen River.

Krang Ryah Bay, in which there is anchorage sheltered from E. and S. winds, lies 6 miles S.E. from Pedro Point. On its eastern side a cliffy coast commences, and off' its eastern entrance point is a small islet, Batu Kapal. At 6 miles eastward of Batu Kapal is Tanjong Batu Putie, a cliffy point bear-

ing N. by W. from the western slope of the Golden Mountain, Thence the coast takes a general E.S.E. direction to Pedir Point. There is, however, a slij^ht bay between Tanjong Batu Putie and Tanjong Segie, 8i miles E.S.E. -ward from it, on the shores of which are the few small Tillages, Lanteba, Bihu, Powad, Lawang, and Kalore. There are no dangers marked on the charts at more than half a mile off shore hereabout.

PEDIR POINT, or BaUi Pedir, is a table land of moderate elevation. Off Pedir Point, with the exception of a few rocks close in, the shore is steep-to, there being 112 fathoms water 1 mile distant from the shore. From this point the coast is cliffy for Zh miles, and runs to the southward, thence it takes a general S.E. by E. direction for 1 6 miles to Endjung Creeh, a few miles up wLich is the village of Saivang. Six creeks, with sand banks off their mouths, are found on the coast between Pedir Point and Endjung Creek. Batu Creelc, the first, lies 4 miles southward of Pedir Point. Bun- gala Creeh, a mile N.E. of which is anchorage in 9 fathoms, lies If mile E.S.E. of Batu Creek. Pedir Creelc is 2^ mile E.S.E.-ward of Batu Creek. The village is not visible from the anchorage, which is abreast this creek in 10 or 12 fathoms. Gichen Creeh is 2\ miles E.S.E. of Pedir Creek. Between this and Burong Creeh, the distance is 1^ mile. Burong may be known by a flag- staff in the centre of the village. The creek is very narrow, and the bar at its entrance very shallow, and only passable at high water. The anchorage is abreast of the village in 15 or 18 fathoms water. From Bui'ong Creek to Ije Labu Creek, which enters the sea at a slight projection of the coast, the distance is 3j miles. Endjung Creek is 3J miles beyond this. Sawang entrance, before mentioned, may be known by a high grove of trees near to it.

At E. i S. 7| miles from the entrance of Sawang or Endjung Creek is Merdu Point, low and sandy, with a few small round trees on it. Beradjang Creeh lies 2 miles westward of the point, another creek enters the sea at the point, and TJlim Creeh 2 miles south-eastward of it. Between Merdui Point and midway between Samalangan Creeh enters the sea. Pajah Point may be known by a high grove of trees near its extreme. There is a depth of about 15 fathoms, at a mile off shore, between Merdui and Rajah Points. To the

Oujong Rajah E. J N., distant 23 miles, between which the shore mav be approached to 12 or 14 fathoms, excepting when near to Passangan Point, which is steep-to, having 30 fathoms within half a mile from the beach. Passangan Point is low and sandy, with a few cocoa-nut trees near to its ex- treme, and is in one with Elephant Mountain, bearing S. 42° W.

East 4° South from Passangan Point, distant 9^ miles, is Agum-Agum, or Gonia Goma Point, the coast between is slightly concave, and hallway between

there is a high square grove of trees, near which the Elumpang Dua Creek enters the sea. Ilaneh Creeh enters the sea a mile eastward of Passangan Point. The shore vsx?^ be approached between these points to 8 or 10 fa- thoms, but not when abreast of Agum-Agum, which is low, with a little jungle on it, as two sunken rocks lies off this point, one a mile W.N.W. of the point, and another, the Sumatra Rock, at a mile off shore and 2 miles eastward of the point. Do not shoal the water under 25 fathoms when in the neighbourhood of the Sumatra Eock, if you wish to pass outside of it. From Goma Goma Point the coast takes a general E. by S. ^ S. direction for 12 miles to Telok Samoi, or Teles Amoi Point, S.S.W. from which is a t^ble land of moderate elevation, with a few conspicuous trees on it. The point may be rounded at any convenient distance, as there are soundino-s of 7 and 10 fathoms within 100 yards of the beach. Krang Guku Creek is 4^ miles eastward of Goma Goma Point. At Telok Samoi Point the coast recedes and forms a bay, open to the North and East, with a river flowing into its S. W. corner ; and two villages on its shores, Telok Samoi on its western, and Maraksa on its South side.

From Maraksa, just eastward of which a small creek enters the sea, the coast runs in an E.N.E. direction to Diamond Point, and may be ap- proached to 7 or 8 fathoms, except when approaching Diamond Point, there is a shoal of hard slatey clay, with 2 fathoms on it ; it is not more than 20 yards in extent, with 7 and 8 fathoms close round it. From the shoal Diamond Point Dears E. 1° N., distant 5 J miles ; a small gap in the juno-le S. r E. ; and Curtoy Creek (which is situated 8J miles to the westward of Diamond Point, at the AYest extreme of the belt of thick jungle), S. 22° W.

Fussier or Passey, now an unimportant place, about 25 miles south-westward of Diamond Point, is frequently mentioned in old Malay annals as beino- a place of some note, at one time rivalling Malacca. It attained its notoriety as an entrepdt for trade carried on between the countries East and West of it. Between Passey Creek and Legabatang Creek, 8J miles eastward of it, are the Rertv or Kertoy, Tyankoy, and Pidada Creeks.

DIAMOND POINT, or Jambie Ayre, or Tanjong Goere, forms the eastern extremity of the coast of Pedir, the trees on it being of unequal height, and higher than those of the contiguous land, make the land appear like a low sloping island, when viewed at a considerable distance, although the ground is very little elevated above the sea at high water spring tides. A reef ex- tends from the point about \h mile in a northei-ly direction, having 3 fathoms sand on its outer edge, and shoaling gradually to the point. A ship should come no nearer the latter than 2i miles, nor under 12 fathoms in passing it and the shoal to the westward ; for the water shoals quickly under this depth to the westward of the point. This place is frequented in the fair season by fishermen from the coast of Pedir. Inland to the S.S.W. there is a high. Table Mountain, visible from the offing in clear weather.

Tides. - Although the tides along the Pedir coast are weak, and only per- ceptible near the shore, there being a current usually setting to the westward in the offing during the S.W. monsoon, yet they begin to run strong at Diamond Point. The flood here sets to the S.E., and the ebb to the N.W., about 2 miles per hour, with arise and fall of 9 or 10 ft. on the springs. At the western part of the coast of Pedir, it is high water at about lOJ hours, on full and change of the moon, and at 12 hours off Diamond Point. The soundings are not very regular in the offing, the depths being from 20 to 35 the point ; and soundings extend from hence across to Pulo Pera, and from the latter to the Ladda Islands, and to Penang. A little outside of Pulo Pera there are no soundings.

The coast to the south-eastward has been surveyed by Lieut. Jackson ; but the directions of Commander Fell are adapted to this later chart.

Adie, 20 miles South of Diamond Point, claimed Dutch protection in 1874, and a coal depot has been established here. Between Diamond Point and Adie are several rivers and creeks. On the western side of Diamond Point is DJambu Ayer Creek, and on its eastern side Mentui Creek. In lat. 5° 14' N. is Bekas Creek. Pareh Busuk, in 5° 13' N., is an entrance between two islands. in 5° 9' 30", has its entrance marked out by stakes on the sand banks ; the town is about 6 miles from its mouth, and there are some pepper grounds on a town, Telok Sintang, 1^ mile from its entrance, and some pepper grounds it the Buging River; a mile S.E. of Buging River is Bagan River, and in

Edie Besaar River has a fort and flagstaflP on the South side of its entrance, which lies between sand banks that extend off either point and form a chan- nel, running N.W. and SE., and open to the northward.

Diamond Point S.E. J E. 11 leagues, has a reef projecting North and N.N.W. from it about 4 miles, near which the soundings are very irregular, although between it and Diamond Point they are regular at a short distance from the shore. There are 4 J fathoms, mud, 2 J miles from Prauhilah Point. On the North side of the point is the entrance into the river, which is almost dry at low water ; but inside of it there are 2 fathoms for several miles up, with a small fishing village at a considerable distance from the entrance. Off this part it is high water, at full and change, at 1 2'\

long. 97° 57' E., has an extensive sand bank lying off its entrance. Along the South side of this sand bank the channel into the river carries a depth of

2f fathoms, but there is less water outside, as little as 4^ ft. being found at 1 J mile S.E. of the North point.

LANKSA BAY, 20 miles S.E. by S. from Prauhilah Point, formed by Ujong Byan to the N.W., and Ujong Kwala Lanksa to the S.E., is about 4 miles wide, containing numerous shoals, with narrow channels leading into the different rivers, which fall into this bay. Near Ujong Kwala Lanksa lies Pido Laga Tojoo, a small island, about a mile in extent, having a channel about 300 yards wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water between it and Ujong Kwala Lanksa.

The entrance into Lanksa River bears from it about South, and there is a safe but narrow channel on either side of the island ; the best channel, how- ever, is from theN.E., between the island and Ujong Kwala Lanksa, having 2 J fathoms least water. In the entrance of the river there are two small islands, and the town is said to be at a considerable distance inside, contain- ing a number of inhabitants, who cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. There are only 3 fathoms, mud, about 6 miles distant from the bottom of the bay, and the reefs extend 3i or 4 miles from the nearest land. Five leagues S.E. of Lanksa Bay is Vjo7ig Tannang, or Tamiang, with Ujong Roquit midway be- tween them. The coast in this interval is safe to approach, having from 15 to 20 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, excepting at Pulo Roquit and at Ujong Tamiang, where there are reefs of breakers, which project out a mile. It is

the S.E. extremity of a deep bay, formed between it and Ujong Tamiang. The bay is not easily perceived from the offing, as Pulo Tampelu and Pulo Sampatuan, two large islands fronting the bay, appear, unless close in-shore, as part of the mainland. Between these islands there is said to be a safe channel for small vessels, that leads to Kaya-la-pun River.

From the mouth of the Lankat a bank extends about 6 miles to the north- ward and N.E., having dry patches on it, with breakers in some places. About 5 miles off the entrance of the river the depth is 3 fathoms, mud, and the tide rises and falls about 2 ft. on the springs ; high water at 3i hours, on full and change. About 4 leagues S.E. of Lankat River there is Lankat- tuah Island, close to Ujong Lankat-tuah, which is safe to approach, and which forms the northern extremity of the concavity of the land, where Dehli River is situated.

Balawan and Dehli Rivers are separated at their entrances by a low island, covered with jungle, 2| miles long from East to West, and If mile importance of these rivers arises from the fact that the Dutch Government have recently established a coaling station on the shore which faces the western end of the island before mentioned. Up to the coal sheds the least depth (8 feet at low water) is found between the outer dark wooden cross and outer

\^'hite beacon. The entrance to Balawan River is about 300 yards wide, and much deeper than Dehli River. At 3 miles to the northward of the East extreme of the island which separates Balawan from Dehli River are the outermost of some fishing stakes, whic-h lie 2 miles off the low wooded shore to the westward, and mark the western side of the entrance to the channel, which thence extends to the S.S.W., and is marked on its western side by white basket-topped beacons, and on its eastern side by crosses of dark wood. About 3] miles up the channel branches off to the westward, between the island and the main, half a mile beyond a beacon marking a projecting shoal on the port hand it turns to the southward, a mile up which reach there is anchorage off the coal sheds. Dehli Town is reached by a channel to the S.E., in which there are 1^ and 2 fathoms water. Here the rise and fall of the tide is from 8 to 9 ft., high water at 3 hours on full and change of the

South of the entrance to the Balawan River a depth of 3 fathoms is fmnd «,t 4 miles off shore, and for 3 miles eastward of the East point of the island the sand nearly dries. The mouth of the Dehli River is about a quarter of a mile wide, having 4 ft. at high water on some parts, but inside it deepens to 2 fathoms ; about 3 miles from the entrance is the town of Dehli or Labuan. A mile up from the entrance the channel separates into two branches, one leading N.W. towards the coal sheds, and the other leading S.W. towards the town. There is only 3 or 4 ft. water in some parts of the channel, and abreast the town the river is only 40 yards wide, with a fresh stream always

From Dehli to Tanjong Mattie, which forms the northern part of Batu Barra Bay, the coast extends about S.E. by E., 55 miles, having regular soundings to 4|- fathoms, within 2 miles of the low sandy beach that lines this part o^ the coast.

There are some dangerous shoals off this part of the coast, as shown by the survey of Lieut. Jackson.

The Dehli Shoal is the first of these, and lies 1 7 miles East by North from the mouth of the Dehli River, and nearly 12 miles from the nearest shore. Its least water is 27 ft., and it is surrounded by depths of 6 and 7 fathoms; just outside it there are 10 and 13 fathoms. No marks are given to avoid it.

The Bungan Banks, or Varela Reef, are still more dangerous. They lie from 6 to 9 miles from the nearest land. Point Bungan Bungan, 25 miles W. by S. from Pulo Yarela, and are two in nurr.l -^r. The outer one is a narrow spit, extending 3^ miles N.W. and S.E., with only 9 fi. least water on some parts. A channel, with 7 to 9 fathoms, nearly 2 miles in width, separates it from the inner bank, which is also narrow, and extends in the same direction for 4 miles. Between it and the coast, the channel, 4 miles wide, has a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms. The Peak of Pulo Varela,

bearing E J S., just clears theirnorthern edge ; the same peat, E. by N. ^ N., clears their southern part ; and a high tree on the main land, bearino- S. by E. f E., will lead clear of their eastern face.

off the Sumatran coast, is very high, and may be seen 8 leagues off, although it is not more that a mile in circumference. It is wooded, and clear all round, with very deep water, 24 and 25 fathoms, close-to. A small rock or islet off its N.W. point, and another off the South end. There are some small sandy bays, the largest of which is to the S.E. On the South side ia a small cove, in which at some seasons water may be procured. It runs down the hill slowly into a small well. The island is visited by the Sumatran people for the purpose of catching turtle and preserving their eggs, fish-roes, &c. As these people are sometimes treacherous, boat parties landing for fire-wood, fishing, cr water, should be on their guard.

miles in length, its S.E. end being 7 miles from Pulo Yarela. Although the above depths were only found on the survey, it is reported that there are only 2 fathoms over some parts. There is another bank with 8 and 9 fathoms at

Point Mattie is 25 miles due South from Pulo Varela ; off it is the Mattie Shoal, nearly awash in parts, and 9 miles in extent, parallel with the coast, between which is a channel of from 15 to 5 fathoms water, from Ij to 2^ miles wide. It is high water here, at full and change, at 3 hours, rise from

Off Tanjong Mattie, to the northward, tbe depth increases to 12 and 14 fathoms, and shoals suddenly to 5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit which projects about IJ mile from that point, and 6^ miles to the eastward of it, and the same distance to the northward of Batu Barra there is an extensive and dangerous sand-bank, having only IJ fathom, with a safe channel be- tween it and the mainland, 3 miles wide.

coast for some miles eastward, is fronted by an extensive mud flat, from 2^to 4 miles oft' shore, having regular soundings, and projecting out to within 5 miles of the South Brother. The river is about 300 yards wide, with regular soundings to the dry banks at its mouth, where a little way inside it divides into two branches, one to the eastward, and the other to the westward. About a mile up the western branch is the town where the chief rajah re- sides. On the banks of the eastern branch stands another town, and there are said to be other towns further up the river. The people on the coast are generally Malays ; those in the interior are Bataks. European vessels discontinued visiting this place for many year-, owing to the perfidious con- duct of the Malays, who formerly cut off several vessels that touched here to

trade. Nevertheless the people of Batu Barra appear more industrious and better inclined to trade than is usual with the other inhabitants of this coast ; and they carry in their own proas, to Penang and Malacca, the rattans, pepper, or other articles produced here. Goats and poultry are plentiful, at reasonable prices.

The BROTHERS, two small islets, lie oflF Batu Barra, at 10^ and 15^ miles respectively, to the N.E. by E. The northernmost, Pulo Pandan, or Quandan, is much lower than Pulo Varela, from which it lies S.S.E. f E. 25i miles distant. It is covered with wood, and surrounded on all sides by a reef to a considerable distance off it. Therefore it should not be made "free with. The southernmost, Pulo Salanama, is larger, and much more bold-to, although there are some rocks stretching from its North end for above half a mile, and another rock or islet lies to the E^st of its South end. The channel between the two islets, 4 miles in width, is perfectly safe with 20 to 30 fathoms water ; and there is also a channel inside Pulo Salanama, about 3 miles in width, but then it should be borne in mind that the Suma- tran coast is here bordered by an extensive shelf, which extends for nearly 5 miles off the point to the southward of the southern Brother. Prom this circumstance, it should not be used except under great necessity, seeing that the course outside it is so much preferable. There are several other spots shown on the charts, which will demonstrate the necessity of caution, should a vessel get too far over to the Sumatran side. The best course is, as before directed, to the eastward of Pulo Jarra.

The COAST of Sumatra south-eastward of Batu Barra is laid down on the charts from the surveys of Lieuts. Rose and Moresby, I.N., and has not been so minutely examined as that to the north-westward ; but this is of the less importance, as a great portion of it is unapproachable to shipping, in con- sequence of an extensive mud flat which stretches off it for many miles.

tending from its entrance 8 miles to the N.E., upon which the soundings regularly decrease. From hence to Reccan River care is required not to approach too near the coast, as several mud flats extend to a considerable distance, upon the verge of which the water shoals suddenly ; particularly about 5 or 6 leagues to the S.E. of Assarhan River, fronting the bay of Lidang and its contiguous rivers, where the flat extends Zh leagues from the shore at the bottom of that bay.

RECCAN, or Rakan River, has at the entrance two islands, Pulo Lalang former is the largest, from which the other bears S. by E. ^ E., about 2;^ miles ; and there is a shoal channel between them leading into the river. They are low and woody, and not discernible above 10 miles. Having passed between these islands, and being a little to the eastward of them, the entrance to the river bears S.E. f E., and extends in this direction about 30

miles ; then a small and shoal bank projects to the westward, called Banha ; but the main branch takes a S.E. direction, and is called Tanah Putie River, having a town of the same name at the mouth of this branch, which is here about IJ mile wide, and is said to take its rise from the mountains. It is shoal and dangerous, from the rapidity of the tides ; but several large and populous villages are said to stand on its banks, subject to the Rajah of Siak. The g-reatest breadth of the mouth of Reccan River is about 15 miles, decreasing about 8 or 9 miles up to 4 miles, afterwards 2 miles, and then continuing this breadth till it forms the two branches mentioned above. It is almost dry at low water spring tides, and is rendered exceedingly dan- gerous by their excessive rapidity of 7 miles per hour, producing a bore en the springs, and having a rise and fall of 30 ft.

At the mouth of the river it is high water at 6 hours on full and change of the moon ; the rise and fall of tide about 26 ft. ; and here the velocity of the stream is about 5^ miles per hour, but it becomes much greater a few miles up. On the bank of the river the Nautilus found a straggling village, whence the inhabitants came off in great numbers, and entreated to be ad- mitted on board, under pretence of friendship, which was refused excepting to a few of them. They afterwards, without the least provocation, endea- voured to cut off one of the boats, which had got adrift by the rapidity of the tide.

The Arroa Isles, described previously, lie oflf the mouth of the river, 40 miles to the northward.

From Eeccan River the land on the eastern bank projects to the N.W., forming the headland called Vjong Perhahean, in lat. 2° \&h' N., from which a mud flat extends to the N.W. and N.N.W. about 10 miles, and upon this flat the soundings decrease regularly. When clear to the eastward of this bank, and having Ujong Perbabean bearing S.W., and Parcelar Hill N.E., you enter upon the most dangerous part of this coast, its various sand banks extending from it over to the South Sands, with gaps and narrow channels of mud soundings between them. As the soundings afford no guide in ap- proaching these banks, the depth decreasing suddenly upon them, it is neces- sary for a vessel intending to pass between them to have a boat ahead sound- ing, and a good lookout kept from the fore-yard, for the shoal banks are plainly seen when the sky is clear in the daytime.

PULO EOUPAT, the North point of which is called UJong Bantam, is within \\ mile of the shore. The eastern side of this island is bold until the entrance of Brewers Strait is approached, where a mud bank extends out from the shore of Pulo Roupat about 5 or 6 miles between the North point of Pulo Roupat and Ujong Perbabean, the coast forms a deep bight, which is fronted by an extensive sand bank ; this bank, together with those in the

offing, mentioned above, render this part of the Sumatra side of the strait very intricate and dangerous.

BREWERS STRAIT, or Salat Panjang. - The North entrance of this strait is formed between the mainland of Sumatra and Pulo Bucalisse ; Tanjo-ng Jati, shoal bank, extends 8 miles to the northward from the point.

The northern navigable part of this strait is about 5 miles wide, with soundings of 8 to 15 and 20 fathoms, mud ; and 8 miles from the entrance, on the western shore, is the town of Bukit Batu, upon the banks of a very narrow river of the same name. The town is not easily perceived, the houses being scattered among and hid by the trees ; but it may be known by a tree, formed like an umbrella, near the entrance of the river.

At Ujo7ig Ballai, a point of Sumatra, 3A- leagues to the S.E. of Bukit Batu Eiver, the strait becomes contracted to 3 or 4 miles in breadth ; and opposite to the point is the entrance to the narrow strait called Salat Padang, affording a safe passage for boats ; it is formed between Pulo Bucalisse and Pulo Pa- dang. From Ujong Ballai, Brewers Strait turns from a S.E. to a South direction, till opposite the mouth of the Siak Eiver.

From the entrance of Siak Piver, Brewers Strait extends S.S.E. to the western end of Pulo Eantow, where it contracts to 1 mile in breadth, with regular mud soundings from 8 to 10 fathoms. Between Pulo Eantow and Pulo Padang is formed a channel leading to the sea, called Salat Ringit by the natives, and said to be used only by boats. From the western end of Pulo Eantow the strait takes an easterly direction about 20 miles, with depths from 10 to 15 fathoms, till a small island in mid straits is approached, on each side of which the passage is practicable, taking care to avoid the stream of the island, as a mud flat extends from it to the westward 2^ miles in the middle of the strait. From hence the direction to the strait is to the S.E., and, after passing three small islands on the port hand, the southern entrance opens, oflf which there are a great number of islands. The safest channel out appears to be between Panton Point and Pulo Senappu, having regular but shoal soundings of only 1 fathom at low water in some parts.

on the western side of Brewers Strait, is about three-quarters of a mile wide, having a sandy spit, nearly dry at low water, extending almost across, but leaving a safe, although very narrow channel, close to Ujong Liang, the eastern entrance point ; the river becomes narrow, with deep soundings in- fiide, and is said to have its source in the mountains.

The town of Siak stands at 65 miles from the mouth of the river. The Nautilus anchored in 6 fathoms, mud, within a quarter of a mile of the mouth of the Siak Eiver, and found the time of high water at full and change of the moon to be 9 hours ; rise and fall of the tide about 12 ft., and the velocity 2\ xniles per hour.

tensive mud flat, almost dry at low water ; and it is little frequented on account of the rapidity of the tides, occasioning a bore at times similar to that of Reccan River, which it resembles in several respects. In approach- ing the southern entrance of Brewers Strait, the tides are greatly influenced by this river, producing a strong eddy round some of the islands, so that, while the tide is running to the southward on one side of an island, it may be often found running to the northward on the other side.

The rise and fall of tide near the southern entrance of Brewers Strait is about 15 ft. in some parts, with a velocity of about 3i miles per hour, but much greater when near the entrance of Campou River. The three islands, Pulo Bucalisse, Padang, and Rantow, which form Brewers Strait, and also Pulo Panjore, ought not to be approached but with great caution, at their eastern sides, as they are fronted by an extensive mud flat, with dangerous sand banks, in some places having only 1 J fathom water on them. These form what is usually called the Sumatra Bank, or third bank in the Malacca Strait to the N.W. of the Carimons, which has been before alluded to. The Carimon Islands, which form the head of the Strait of Malacca, have been described on page 136.

This important and remarkable passage, the great portal of the Indian Archi- pelago, has been surveyed by the Dutch officers. Lieutenants Eietveld and Boom, in 1848, and their survey has been improved by the observations of many officers, especially by the late talented Melville Van Carnbee, of the Dutch navy, who drew up an excellent hydrographical description of Java, &c., which has been mainly followed hereafter.*

The Strait of Sunda is a singular break in the continuity of that great chain of volcanic mountains which runs from N.W. to S.E. through Sumatra, and is continued eastward through Java. This depression in the mountain chains is not very much below the sea level, for the general maximum depth of the strait is not more than from 30 to 50 fathoms. But this slight de- pression, geologically speaking, has produced a great contrast in the islands

* The fine surveys and charts of great portions of the Indian Archipelago, which have teen executed by the Dutch oflELcers attached to the Indian Possessions of that nation, have only heen known and justly appreciated in this country within a few years. The " Com- missie tot Verbetering der Indische Zeekarten " was instituted by the enlightened Governor General of Dutch India, Van der Capellen, in 1821, and since that period the commission has been sedulously and zealously occupied in surveying and collecting information in <all the surrounding seas. Captain-Lieutenant Baron Peter Melville van Carnbee became the secretary to the Dutch Commission, in 1850, and among numerous other works he was the author of the " Zeemansgids voor de Vaarwaters om Java," which was soon translated into the French and English languages, the latter being done by Dr. Norton Shaw, Secretary to the Royal Geographical Society. Besides this, he drew up a fine series of charts from the many scattered surveys and observations made by the Dutch officers under the commission ; these charts were published by the respected house of Wed. G. H Van Keulen, of Am- sterdam, and were afterwards copied in their main features by the English Admiralty, as the basis for all subsequent charts. Young MelviUe van Carnbee died in 1856, in his fortieth year, while engaged on the excellent " Algemeene Atlas Van Nederland's Oost

To the works above quoted, very much is owing in the subsequent pages. - Editor.

on either side of it. Each has a distinct class of animal and vegetable life. Thus the elephant and tapir of Sumatra have no existence in Java. The wild hog and rhinoceros of Sumatra are of different species to those found in Java. The orang-outang is found in Sumatra, but not in Java. The birds are also quite different ; many important families belong to each, without having them in common. These curious contrasts are also found to exi&t between the islands further to the eastward. These remarkable facts in the distribu- tion of life on the earth have been much discussed by naturalists, especially by M. Temminck and Mr. A. R. Wallace.

The strait derives its name from the western portion of Java, which is peopled by the Sunda nation, who speak a diff'erent language, and are less advanced in civilization than the rest of the Javanese.

In its widest sense, the Strait of Sunda embraces a very large area. Be- tween the western extremity of Java and the south-western end of Sumatra, this line to another at its N.E. limits, between St. Nicholas Point on Java, to the opposite side on Sumatra, the distance is 74 miles. The narrowest part of the strait is between Fourth Point on the Java side, and Hog Point in Sumatra, 1 3 miles apart. There are numerous islands in it, which sepa- rate the strait into several channels, of which that along the Java coast is the most used; the lofty and conspicuous island Krakatoa being the great land-mark from the westward, all the headlands being more or less grand in their character.

The Dutch nation holds the sovereignty of the shores on either side, and being the surveyors of the strait, have the right to give the names and ortho- graphy to the points and islands, but as their excellent and expressive lan- guage is not so generally used, it will be preferred to give these common names in an English form (adding the Dutch), and the spelling in the ordinarily recognized form for pronunciation.

The south-eastern side of the Strait of Sunda is formed by that portion of Java which gives its name to it, as before mentioned. The state extends eastward to Cheribon, and includes Batavia, the capital, embracing nearly one-third of Java. It is a mountainous country, but containing some rich valleys, and is said to bear the same relation to Java proper that Wales does to England, or the highlands to the lowlands of Scotland. It is more thinly populated, and the people less advanced than in the rest of Java.

The volcanic ranges which traverse it, in continuation of that extending