Havana directory, 1875

SAILINC DIRECTIONS

' » *

FOK THt I'HE

ITED STATES,

BOSTON AND THE "MISSISSIPPI,

THE GULF OF FLORIDA

THE COA- TO HAVANA.

LOXDOX : PUBLISHED BY R. H. LAURIE,

FLEET bTl'.KET.

UCSB LIBRARY

y^ (sfr-kS**)

SAILING DIRECTORY

FOR THE COAST OF THE

UNITED STATES,

BETWEEN

BOSTON AND THE MISSISSIPPI,

INCLUDING THE

GULF OF FLORIDA,

AND

THE COAST OF CUBA TO HAVANA.

TO ACCOMPANY THE' CHAKT.

BY ALEXANDER GEORGE FINDLAY,

Fellow of ttve Royal Geographical Society.

LONDON :

PUBLISHED FOR RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, E.C.

1873.

PART I.

BOSTON TO CHAELESTON.

CONTENTS.

VAOR NOTE» ON THE BKARING3 AND VARIATION'S OF THE CoMPASK, 1875 1

SECTION I.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

-

BANKS and SHOALS off Cape Cod, &c., 2 ; St. George's Banks, 2 ; Cashe's Ledge, 4 ;

the Fippenies and Stellwagon's Bank o

MASSACHUSETTS BAY, 6 - 23 ; Cape Ann and Thatcher's Island Lighthouses, 6 ; Lon- doner Rock, 6 ; Gloucester Harbour, 7 ; Baker's Island Lighthouses, 8 ; Manchester and Beverly, 10 ; Salem, 11; Marblehead, 12; Nahant, 13, 14; Boston, 14 - 19 ; Scituate, &c., 19 ; Plymouth, 20 ; Barnstable, 21 ; Well- fleet and Cape Cod Peninsula, 22 ; Highlands Light, 22 ; Cape Cod Harbour and Provincetown , 23

EASTERN COAST OF CAPE COD PENINSULA, 25 ; Chatham Harbour, 26 ; Monomoy

Island, 26 ; Butler's Hole 27

NANTCCKET AND VINEYARD SOUNDS, 28 - 42 ; Nantucket Island, 28 ; Martha's Vineyard, 29 ; Sankaty Head Light, 29 ; Nantucket Shoals, 29 - 33 ; Nan- tacket Harbour, 33 ; Edgar Town, 3-5 ; Hyannis Harbour, 36 ; Directions for Xantucket Sound 38

Vineyard Sound, 39 - 42 ; Gay Head Light, 40 ; Nobsque Light, 42 ; Buzzard's

Bay, 43 ; New Bedford, &c., 44 ; Mattapoiset , 45

Rhode Island, 46 ; Newport or Rhode Island Harbour, 47 ; Narraganset Bay, 48 ;

Point Judith and Lighthouse, 48 ; Block Island Lights 49

iv CONTENTS.

PAOK

LONG ISLAND AND SOUND, 50 - 75 ; Montauk Point and Light, 50 ; Block Island Sound, 50 ; Gardiner's Island and Bay, 51-2; Greenport, 53; Plum Island Lighthouse, 53 ; Gull Islands and Lighthouse, 54 ; the Race, 54 ; Fisher's Island and Sound, 56; Stonington, 58; New London, 59; Bartlett's Reef and Lightvessel, 61 ; Connecticut River and Saybrook, 61 ; Falkner's Island and Lighthouse, 62 ; New Haven, 63 ; Stratford Point Light, 64 ; Bridgeport, 64; Black Rock Harbour, 65; Penfield's Reef and Light, 65; Norwalk Islands, 65 ; Sheffield Island and Light, 66 ; Captain's Islands, 66 ; Hun- tington Bay, 67 ; Hempstead, 68 ; East Riyer and Hell Gate, 69 - 72 ; Gene- ral Directions for Long Island Sound, 72 ; Long Island, South Coast, 74 ; Pondquogue and Fire Island Lights 74- 1^

NEW YORK HARBOUR, 76 - 84; Highlands of Navesink and Sandy Hook Lights, 76; Lights and Channels, 77; Tides, 78; Directions, 79; General Direc- tions for approacning New York 80- S I

SECTION II. SANDY HOOK TO CHARLESTON.

Barnegat and Little Egg Harbour, 85 ; Absecum and Great Egg Harbour, 87 ; Five

Fathom Bank 8S

DELAWARE BAY AND RIVER, 88 - 94 ; Cape May and Cape Henlopen Lights, 89 ; Shoals on the North side, 89 ; Channels and Directions. 90 ; Cohansey, 92 ; Blake's Channel, 93 ; Wilmington, 93 ; Philadelphia 94

COASTS OF DELAWARE AND MARYLAND, 94 - 98 ; Fenwick's Island Lighthouse, 94 ; Winter Quarter Shoal and Lightvessel, 95 ; Assateague Island Lighthouse, 95 ; Cnincoteague Shoals, 95 ; Metompkin Harbour, 96 ; Smith's Island, 96 ; Directions, Delaware to the Chesapeake, 96 ; the Capes of Virginia , ''S

CHESAPEAKE BAY AND RIVERS, 98 - 112; Cape Charles and Cape Henry Light- houses, 99 ; Lights in the entrance of the Chesapeake, 99, 100 ; Shoals in the entrance, 100 ; Lynhaven Roads and Hampton Roads, 101 ; Directions for en- tering, 102 ; Cape Henry, or Lynhaven Bay, to York River, 103 ; to Mob- jack or New Comfort Bay, 104 ; New Point Comfort to the Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers, 104 ; Potomac to the River Patuxent, 106 ; Patuxent to Annapolis and Baltimore, 108 - 112 ; to Susquehanna River 1 1 '1

CAPE HENRY TO CHARLESTON, 113 - 126; Body Island and Light, 113; Cape Hat- teras and Light, 113, 114; Hatteras Shoals and Cove, 114, 115; Hatteras Inlet, 116 ; Albemarle and Pumplico Sounds, 116 ; Cape Lookout Lighthouse and Shoals, 117 ; Beaufort Harbour. 117 ; Wilmington, 118 ; New Inlet, 119 ; Cape Fear and Frying Pan Shoals, 119; Cape Fear River, 120; Winyah Bay and Georgetown, 121 ; Cape Roman Lighthouse and Shoals, 123 ; Bull's Bay and Rattlesnake Shoals, 124 ; Charleston 1 '_'->

Remarks on the Winds, &c., on the Coast of South Carolina 1 26

Alphabetical Index 127

..'O.NTKNT* T

SKrTluX III. CHARLESTON TO HAVANA AND THE MISSISSIPPI.

F..OE

CHAKLBSTGN TO CAPE FLORIDA, 127 - US; Pilots, 127; North Edisto Inlet, 127; St. Helena Sound, 128; Port Royal, 129; Tybee Inlet and Sa- vannah, 131 ; Observations on tha Winds, &c., of South Carolina, 134 ; Great Warsaw Sound, 134; Ossabaw Sound, 135; St. Catharine's Sound, 135; Doboy or Darieu Inlet, 136 ; St. Simon's, 137 : St. Andrew's, 138; St. Mary's, 139; Ft-rnandina, 139; Nassau, 140; St. John's, 140; St. Augustine, 141 ; Cape Canaveral, 143; Indian River Inlet, 143 ; Jupiter, Orenville, Hilsboro', and New River Inlets, 144; Cape Florida, 145; Fowey Rocks Lighthouse 1 4-5

The FLORIDA REEKS AND KAYS, 145 ; General Description, 145 - 148 ; Light- houses and Beacons on the Florida ReetV, 148 - 152 ; Harbours and An- chorages on the Florida Reefs, 1-52 - 160; Lejjare Anchorage, 152; Bahia Honda, 153; Kay West, 153; Marquesas Kays, 157; the Tor- tugas 138

DIRECTIONS FOB FLORIDA STRAIT 1 60

The GULF STI.EAM 161 - 163

The BAHAMA BANKS, 164; Little Bahama Bank, 164; Maternillo Reefs, 164; Providence N.W. Channel, 165 ; Great Bahama Bank, 165 ; Gun Kay and Lighthouse, 166 ; Salt Kay or Kay Sal Bank 167

NORTH COAST OT CUBA, 168 ; Port Sagua La Grande, 168 ; Bahia de Cadiz

Kay, 169 ; Cardenas Bay, 171 ; Matanzas, 171 ; The Harbour of Havana 173 - 175

The COAST OF FLORIDA, &c., 176; The Tortugas Bank, 176; Chatham Bay, 1.76; Charlotte Harbour, 177: Tampa Bay, 177; Cedar Kays, 179; St. Mark's, 181; St. George's Sound, 182; Apalachicola, 183; Cape San Bias, 164; St. Joseph's Bay, 184; Sta. Rosa Bay, 185; Pensacola Bay, 186; Mobile, 188; Mississippi Sound, 191; Ship Island, 192; Biloxi Bay, 192 ; Chandeleur Islands, 193 ; River Mississippi, 193 ; Pasa al'Outre, 194; N.E. Pass, 195; S.E. or Balize Pass, 195; South Pasa and Jetties, 195 ; S.W. Pass, 196 ; Pilots, 196 ; Directions for Approach- ing the Mississippi 1 9«

AFPKNDIX - Cautionary Weather Signals 198

C. S. - Part I. - Insertion,

THE EASTERN COASTS OF THE

UNITED STATES.

*.* THROUGHOUT THIS WORK, THE GIVEN* LONGITUDE IS THE LONGITUDE FROM GREENWICH. THE BEARINGS ANI> COURSES ARE THOSE IJY COMPASS, UNLESS WHERE OTHERWISE EXPRESSED: BUT THOSE GIVEN THUS [ W.S. W.~\ SIGNIFY THE TRUE ; AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OF WlND, TlDE, AMD CURRENT, IS ALWAYS TO BE CONSIDERED AS THE TRUE.

THE VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, 1875.

Off Boston, 11° 20' W. ; Plymouth, 11° 15' W.; Cape Cod, IP 45' W. ; Vineyard Sound, 10° 45' W. ; Nantucket South Shoal, 10° 20' W. ; Rhode Island, 9° 45' W. ; East entrance to Long Island Sound, 9D W. ; New London, 8° 50' W. ; Sandy Hook, entrance to New York Harbour, 7° W. ; Cape May, 5° 10' W. ; Mouth of Delaware Bay, 4" 45' W. ; Entrance to Chesapeake Bay, 2° 45' W. ; Cape Hatteras, 2° 15' W. ; Cape Lookout, 1° 20' W. ; Cape Fear, no variation ; Charleston Harbour, 1" 40' East.

Savannah River, 2° 30' E. ; Cape Canaveral, 3° 10' E. ; Cape Florida, 3° 20' E. ; Cay West, 4° 10' E. ; New Orleans, T 20' E.

SECTION I.

BOSTON TO NEW YOEK.

THE descriptions of the Coasts of the United States which succeed, are derived from, and are made to accord with, the fine series of charts drawn up by the officers of the United States Coast Survey. This great work was determined on in 1807, but was not properly commenced till ten years later, under Mr. F. R. Hassler, who continued it for many years. In 1842 a new plan was organized under Professor A. D. Bache, who, as is well known, continued it far towards completion.

The elaborate charts of the coasts and harbours, which were published by the Hydrographic Bureau at Washington, contained generally, besides the topographical and hydrographic details, brief sailing directions applicable to its area. To these attached notes we are largely indebted for the subsequent directions.

The chart and its plans have been faithfully reduced from the same authorities.

U. S. - Part I. B

BANKS AND SHOALS OFF CAPE COD, ETC.

The approach to the north-eastern portion of the United States is somewhat em- barrassed by dangerous banks, of which the shoal spots on the Great George Bank are the outermost, and which lie at 100 miles eastward of the peninsula of Cape Cod. These and others to the E.N.E. of Boston Bay require much caution, and therefore the following notices are necessary to be attended to.

ST. GEOEGE'S BANE. - This bank was very little known until it was regu- larly surveyed in 1821, by the United States schooner Science, and the sloop Orbit, under the orders of Captain Isaac Hall. The following description is a copy of his report : -

There are properly four shoals on St. George's Bank ; the whole of them are in- cluded between the lat. of 4T 34' and 4P 53' 30', and long. 67' 18' and 67° 59'. Between them are from 15 to 35 fathoms of Avater.

The largest, and on which, is the greatest danger, is the most southerly and west- erly. It is somewhat triangular, with a long and narrow spit, making out from the S.E. angle. The' S.E. point is in lat. 41° 34', long. 67° 40' The West point is in lat. 41J 42', long. 67° 59'. The N.E. point is in lat. 41° 48', long. 67° 47' The eastern side of this shoal, although somewhat irregular, runs nearly S.S.E. and N.N.W., having on it from 3 ft. to 9 fathoms at common low water. It is composed of a great number of sand pits, very narrow, so that the width of a narrow vessel will make several fathoms difference in the depth of water. The general range of the spits is from S.E. to N. W. As there are no rocks, they are consequently liable to change, in some measure, their position and ranges. On the eastern edge, even in calm weather, unless it be either high or low water, the tides run with greater rapidity, and form considerable breakers, when setting to the westward, and a large waterfall when setting to the eastward. This is accounted for by a knowledge of the fact, that directly on the edge of this shoal there are from 12 to 16 fathoms water, so that the edge forms a sort of dam, stopping the force of the flood-tide, and over which the ebb falls.

When there was any considerable wind, we observed that the breakers were higher within the edge to the westward than on the edge ; and I have no doubt (says Captain Isaac Hall) that the water there was still shoaler, and that we should have seen the sand had it not been for the heavy sea. The breakers were such, unless it was entirely calm, that it was impossible to go among them with boats ; nor was it considered safe to attempt it with the vessels. For, besides the danger of striking on the hard sand-spits, the vessels would have been liable to have been tilled by the breakers. Even on the eastern edge, and at nearly slack water, the vessels were at times nearly covered with them ; and it was therefore not thought necessary to attempt it, as the object of the survey, to ascertain if there was danger on the shoals, and the situation and extent of this danger, could be accomplished without the risk. Had not the sea been very smooth, and at high water, we should not have been able to have got on where we found only 3 ft., reducing it to low water. The prevailing wind was to the eastward ; and I have no doubt that this place would have been bare, with any continuance of an off-shore wind.* I think there are no rocks about the shoals. We had one cast on the S.W. side, which indicated rocky

* This tends to confirm the assertion made by the Cape Cod fishermen, that part of the shoal has been seen quite dry, with sea gulls sitting upon it.

ST. GEORGE'S BANK. 3

bottom, in 15 fathoms ; but I believe it to have been some sharp stone that the lead struck upon.

The centre of the northern shoal is in lat. 41° 53' 30", and long. 67° 43'. It extends E. and W., about 4 miles ; the shoalest part, having 6 fathoms, i? very narrow, and composed of hard sand ; but there are not more than 12 fathoms of water for 3 miles to the southward of the above latitude. On the North side, at 2 cables' lengths from the shoal, the sloop dropped into 33 fathoms. The breakers on this shoal are very heavy ; and when there should be a sufficient sea to endanger a vessel, they might be seen some miles, and heard at a considerable distance ; and as the shoalest part is not more than a cable's length idside, and no danger near it, a vessel might avoid it.

To the eastward of the last-mentioned shoal, in lat. 41° 51', long. 67^ 26', is another small shoal, with 8 fathoms water, having, however, considerable breakers. There are but 17 fathoms for 3 miles to the northward of it ; but very Hear to the eastward are 31 fathoms, and from 20 to 30 fathoms to the S. and W.

The centre of the East shoal is in lat. 41° 47', long. 67° 19'. It is about 2 miles long from E. to W., and has 7 fathoms water. To the southward there are but 17 fathoms for 2 miles ; but in other directions there are from 20 to 30 fathoms.

The above shoals, I am confident, are all which are on St. George's Bank ; then- positions and sizes may be relied on, as well as the soundings which I have laid down ; they were ascertained by a vast number of celestial observations, taken with good and well-adjusted instruments, on board the two vessels, and very carefully and faithfully calculated. The rates of the chronometers were found by a transit instru- ment previously to sailing from Boston, and after our return ; and all our observa- tions recalculated for the small variation that appeared.

At anchor, in different places, and on different days, we determined the set and strength of the tides, and, as nearly as possible, their rise and fall. The rise of them is from 1 to 1£ fathom. They set round the compass every tide, setting S.E. every full moon, and running from 1 to 4 knots per hour, at a mile distance from the breakers. The mean rate is, however, materially varied by the winds. They set strongest at W.S.W. and E.N.E., and which is, undoubtedly, the strength of the flood and ebb. From these causes and variety in the tides arises a principal danger in approaching the shoals. "When under way about the shoals, in a few hours time we found ourselves drifted far out of our reckonings ; and to ascertain our situations, when both vessels were under way, we took continued observations for the longitude by the chronometers, and, at the same time, double altitudes for the latitudes ; which latter were calculated by Brosinus's new and certain method. By allowing for the set of tides, as ascertained at anchor, the observations and reckonings agreed very nearly ; so that the latitudes and longitudes of every place may be considered as certain. Should, therefore, any vessel fall in with these shoals, a knowledge of the course and strength of the tides will prove of the greatest importance ; and they can, by the preceding facts, be calculated for any day and hour.

In proceeding from Cape Cod to the shoals, at 5 leagues from the light, there are 86 fathoms, muddy bottom. The water gradually deepens to 133 fathoms, and then decreases towards the shoals. In lat. 41° 51', long. 6S3 11', there are 90 fathoms ; in lat. 41' 50', long. 68° 3 , there are 49 fathoms, sand and gravel, on the western edge of the bank ; the water then shoals fast. To the northward of the shoal, in lat. 41° 59', long. 67° 52', on the South side of the North channel, there are 60 fathoms, soft mud ; in lat. 42° 12', long. 67° 51', there are 102 fathoms ; in lat. 42° 10', long. 67° 18', there is no ground at 175 fathoms. To the eastward we did not ascertain the extent of the bank. At 2 miles southward of the S.E. point of the shoals there are

4 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

from 20 to 26 fathoms, which soundings continue 20 miles to the southward and westward.

The bottom, on the hank, so far as we examined it, is of such a narrow character, that it is difficult for a vessel to ascertain her situation by it ; we often found a great variety of soundings in a very short distance, such as sand of various colours, and differently mixed, coarse and fine gravel, pebbles of various colours, stone, sponge, and shells. Notwithstanding this variety, some general character of the soundings may be useful. The mariner therefore will find, to the westward of the shoals, and at some distance from them, the bottom to be coarse sand and gravel of all colours ; to the N.W. a mixture of white, black, and yellow sand ; to the North, black and white sand; to the N.E., chiefly gravel and pebbles; to the East, fine white and yellow sand ; and in lat. 41° 57', long. 66° 40' some white moss ; to the S.E., fine white and yellow sand ; and to the South, generally white sand.

As the shoals are approached, in whatever direction, the soundings become coarse, and are frequently mixed with shells of different kinds. Near the shoal much of the bottom is pebbles ; and to the East of the largest and most dangerous shoal there are stones the size of hen's eggs, with moss and sponge on some of them.

Near the S.E. point are from 15 to 20 fathoms; a prevailing character of the soundings is green shells, chiefly of the species called sea-eggs. If a vessel be far enough South to avoid danger, she will have no shells.

The reports that rocks have been discovered on these shoals, are undoubtedly in- correct ; at the western part of the bank we saw, in strong tide rips, large quantities of kelp and sea-weeds, which, at a distance, had the appearance of rocks, but on Bounding we found good water and a regular and clear bottom.

It will be seen by the bottom that the holding ground is not good ; but the vessels employed in the survey, by having a long scope of cable, frequently rode out a considerable gale of wind for 22 hours, on the East side of the main shoal, and also to the windward of it; the sea breaking very high at the time, we being in 10 fathoms water.

It may be worthy of remark, that at one cast of the lead, on examining the arm- ing, I found one-third black sand, one-third white sand, and one-third green shells, in as distinct dimensions as they could be drawn.

Since this survey, in 1821, the shoal has been surveyed by Captain Charles Wilkes and others, in the U.S. brig Porpoise, in the year 1837, and from this report the fol- lowing is taken.

The shoalcst water found on any part of the bank was 2£ fathoms, or 15 feet, re- duced to low water ; and this is only to be found in two small places, viz., in lat. 41° 40' 13", long. 67° 44' 10', and lat. 41° 40' 33", long. 67° 44' 30". The whole of the shoal is composed of hard sand spits ; fine sand on the shoalest places, and coarser as the water deepens, until it becomes large pebbles without sand.

The rise and fall of tide is 7 feet, extremely regular, the first part of the flood setting N.N.W., the latter part N. by E. ; and ebb S.S.E. and S. by AV. The flood runs 4J hours, the ebb 5£ hours ; the greatest velocity, 2 6-10ths of a mile ; and half an hour to two hours in changing, going round with the sun North by way of East. The wind has but little effect on the velocity. High water, full and change, at 10h 30m.

Clark's and Little George's Banks are proved by later examinations not to be accu- rately defined, and are but parts of the shoal ground of George's Bank.

CASHE'S LEDGE. - This is a dangerous reef, about half a mile in extent each way. Its soundings a'rc very irregular, having from 10 to 4 fathoms in the length of a boat. There are 17 fathoms within a cable's length of it, deepening a short distance

,

THE FIPPENIES - STKLLAVAGEN'S BANK.

to 90 fathoms, on the western side. On approaching the shoal you may find 60 to 35 fathoms, brown sand, with black stones and broken shells ; then 30 fathoms, where it becomes rocky. The currents on the ledge are exceedingly rapid and de- vious. On the shoalest part there are said to be only 12 ft. at low water. By observations made, on four successive days, by the master of H.M. sloop Beaver, the latitude is 43° 1' 0*. The longitude has been deduced from that of Cape Anne as from 69° 6' to 69° 12'.

Such is the statement, exactly as it has appeared in our North Atlantic Memoir, since the year 1815, respecting this dangerous rock. Yet by a later examination by the United States' Coast Survey, by Passed Midshipman Ammen, it was recommended to be called A in men's Hock. As we see not the slightest reason for such change, not- Avithstanding the difficulty and perseverance shown in its exploration, the original name certainly must remain.. -

The latitude of the rock, deduced from the two days' observations, June 5th and 6th, 1849, is 42= 56' ; the longitude 68° 51J' W. The least water on this rock is 26 feet ; a less depth has been reported by the fishermen, but they sound with their fishing lines, perhaps not accurately marked, and with a lead insufficient to press down or pass through the thick kelp that covers the rock. The extent, having less than 10 fathoms, is about half a mile in a N.AY. by AY. and S.E. by E. direction, and very narrow. It is surrounded by deep water at a short distance, particularly on the j3.E. side, where the depth increases suddenly to 60 fathoms.

South of the flat rock there is a gully, 90 fathoms water, which runs in upon the bank in a south-westerly direction. Upon the South side of the gully, 3 miles South of the flat rock, there is a shoal of 7 fathoms, whence the soundings run suddenly to 15 and 30 fathoms, on all sides except the East, where it deepens suddenly to 80 fathoms.

N. by AY., 9 miles from the flat rock, there is a shoal of 14 fathoms ; between them there are from 10 to 35 fathoms, rocky bottom ; on the rocky bottom there is kelp of 45 ft. in length, but on the flat rock there is none.

THE FIPPENIES is a bank of some 10 miles in extent within the 50-fathoms line, at 8 or 10 miles S.AY. from the same depth, on the western edge of Cashe's Ledge.

The Fippenies are some shoaler soundings than in the gully between them and Cashe's Ledge ; they consist of a bottom of 36, 38, and 40 fathoms, to a depth of 55 fathoms, and are situated 18 miles to the AY. by S. of the Ammen's Rock of the Cashe's Ledge. The extent of the shoal ground is about 8 miles North and South, and 3 miles across East and AVest. Thirty-six fathoms is the depth about the middle, which is in lat. 42" 49', long. 69° 13'. In the gully between the Fippenies and Cashe's Ledge are from 60 to 90 fathoms.

Stellwagen's Shoal Ground. - Commander H. S. Stellwagen, U.S.N., by his soundings has shown the existence of this bank of over 2,000 square miles, extending from George's Shoal to the westward, 25 miles; to the S.AY., 50-miles; to the south- ward, 30 miles. Its eastern limit being not yet defined, having on it as little as 9 fathoms water, in some places rocky bottom, on its western edge.

STELLWAGEN'S BANK. - This is an extensive bank of 13 to 18 fathoms on the western side of the foregoing shoal, and fronting Massachusetts Bay, situate almost immediately in face of the harbour of Boston. It commences at about 6| miles N.X.AY. from the lighthouse on Race Point, where is situate a small shoal spot of 9J fathoms, thence it extends in a curved form, the curve being to the eastward, 18 miles in a northerly direction to its North end (13 fathoms), which is situate 16 miles S. by E. £ E. from Thatcher's Island, Cape Ann. The soundings close to its edge are

6 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

30 to 20 fathoms, deepening rapidly eastward and westward, the 100 fathoms line being at little more than 10 miles from its eastern side. Between its northern end and Cape Ann the depth is 40 to 55 fathoms. It forms an extremely valuable guide to vessels making Boston in thick weather, as a single cast of the lead upon it, the soundings eastward of it being so deep, is sufficient to determine a vessel's position with some degree of certainty. It has been buoyed, a red buoy having been placed on the 9J fathoms patch at its South end, a black and white one in the middle> and a Hack one at its North end.

MASSACHUSETTS BAY. - The space comprehended between Cape Ann and Cape Cod is called Massachusetts Bay, and it lies outside of Boston Harbour, which deeply indents the eastern side of the State of Massachusetts. The opening of the bay is about 40 miles in width, and has the Stellwagen Bank across a considerable portion of this distance.

CAPE ANN is the eastern point of an island of that rame, and off it are several islets and rocks, of which Straitsmouth Island is the northernmost of the more con- spicuous ones, and it has a local light Jixcd, as a guide to Rockport, and the channel inside the Salvages which lie farther out.

THATCHER'S ISLAND LIGHTHOUSES. - The island contains about thirty acres of land, surrounded by an ironbound shore, and is about a mile to the East of Cape Ann Island.

Upon Thatcher's Island are two lighthouses, 1I2| ft. from the base to centre of lanterns, and 165| ft. above the sea ; each lighthouse is built of gray stone, while the lanterns and railing are painted black. They both exhibit fixed lights, visible 20 miles off, all round the horizon. The northern tower is in lat. 42° 38' 19", and long. 70° 34' 10", the southern one bearing S. by W. £ W., distant 298 yards. A fog whistle is sounded, giving in every minute a blast of 8 seconds, and a blast of 4 seconds with an interval of 4 seconds between the blasts. From the North lighthouse the Londoner Rock bears S.E. by E., half a mile.

Thatcher's Island affords no harbour, nor is there any safe anchorage very near it ; there is, indeed, a passage between it and the main, through which small vessels may pass, even at low tide ; but the water is shoal, and the bottom is covered by large stones. So soon as the lights are discovered by the mariner, he may be certain of his situation ; for, being two separate lights, they cannot be mistaken for the single light of Boston, or of Cape Cod ; or for the Plymouth lights, which are double, but within a very short distance from each other. The latter can be brought to range in one only in a S. by W. J W and N. by E. f E. direction ; while those of Plum Island (Newbury Port), when in a line, bear about W. by S. and E. by N. The Plymouth lights cannot appear so arranged from the North until you are on the shore, and from the South only when nearly in with the land. The lights of Cape Ann are therefore of great utility to all vessels in their passage in or out ; as they at once serve to point out the situations of the Salvages and Londoner, and for a point of departure to vessels bound coastwise or to sea.

The Londoner Rock bears from the body of the island S.E. by E. half a mile. After getting the West light to bear N. £ W., you are to the westward of the ledge ; then haul to the N.W. to bring the lights to bear N.E. by E., and steer S.W. by W. for Eastern Point, which is about 7£ miles distant from Thatcher's Island. Then your course is W. by S., distance 7 £ miles to abreast the lights on Baker's Island.

Beacon. - On the Londoner Ledge is a wrought iron shaft, 40 ft. high, surmounted by an octagonal lattice, or open work of cast iron, 7 ft. high, and 5 ft. in diameter, painted black. The following are the bearings from the beacon : - Dry Salvages, N. I E. ; Straitsmouth Island Lighthouse, N.N.W. ; Northern Lighthouse, Thatcher's

GLOUCESTER HARBOUR AND LIGHTS. 7

Island, N.W. i N. ; Southern ditto, N.W. by W. f- W. ; Eastern Point Lighthouse, S.W. by W. $ W.

When you come from the eastward, and make Cape Ann lights in the night, bring them to bear S.W., and run direct for them, which course will carry you within the Londoner ; and when you pass these rocks, bring the two lights in one bearing, N. by E. \ E., and then steer S.S.W. £ W. ; keeping this course one mile will carry you clear of Milk Island, which is very low, and cannot be seen in a dark night. When you judge yourself to the westward of this island, you haul to the westward until you bring the lights to bear E.N.E., when you must steer W. S.W. about 5 miles, which course will bring you to the eastern point of Cape Ann Harbour.

If you want to go inside the Salvages, keep close aboard Halbert Point, which has a tree on the eastern point of it, and steer S.S.E. for Straitsmouth Island, but be careful to avoid Avery's Rock, by keeping the lights on the dry point of Straits- mouth Island, till you get up close aboard ; then haul round the point, and S.S.E. will carry you to the lights. To avoid the Londoner, you must keep the lights close aboard the body of the island on which they stand. The Londoner lies half a mile off, breaks at all times of tide, is quite dry at low water, and bears E.S.E. from the middle of Thatcher's Island. A long shoal runs off N.E. half a mile distant from the Londoner. Between the Londoner and Thatcher's Island there are 3 fathoms at low water. From the Salvages to Halbert Point and Sandy Bay, there lies a large spot of flat ground, which at low water will take up a large vessel. Outside the Salvages is very bold. Halbert Point bears from the Salvages W.N.W. 2^ miles distant, and tie Salvages bear from the lights N.N.E. 3 miles distant.

Gloucester Harbour is 6 miles south-westward from the lighthouses of Cape Ann. The entrance is 1 J mile broad, between the Eastern Point and ledge, on one side, and the high land called Norman's Woe, on the other.

Lights. - On the East Point of Gloucester Harbour there is a white lighthouse 33 feet high, which shows o.Jlxed light at 60 feet above the sea, visible 13 miles. A bell is sounded in foggy weather.

On Ten Pound Island (an islet within the harbour) there is also a small lighthouse showing a fixed light, visible 12 miles off.

A ledge extends out from East Point some distance, upon which (with the excep- tion of the southern prong) is a depth of 7 to 18 ft. at low water. The southern prong, or East Point Ledge, runs out from the lighthouse nearly a quarter of a mile in a S.W. | S. direction, and has near its extremity a very dangerous rock, named Webbers Rock, which is awash, or nearly so, at low water. The depth close to this part of the ledge is 3| fathoms, which rapidly increases seaward to 7 and 8 fathoms. The northern prong, or Dog Bar, extends from the lighthouse about N.W. by W. rather more than one-third of a mile, and has upon it 5 to 18 ft., gradually increasing towards its extremity, and has a black buoy No. 2 on its South edge ; outside this prong, and in the same line of direction from the lighthouse, is the Round Rock, situate in the middle of the harbour.

The Round Rock has a depth of 13 ft., and lies in line with and midway between East and Mussel Points, and from it East Church appears just open to port of the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island. It is marked by a black buoy No. 1.

Norman's Woe is a high rocky islet on the West side of the harbour. It is situate W. by N. from the lighthouse on East Point, and from it a ledge of 7 to 16 ft. ex- tends o'ut south-eastward one-eighth of a mile.

Ten Pound Island Ledge is a small rock of 12 ft. water, lying in the middle of the harbour, at about one-third of a mile S.W. J W. from the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island, with a black buoy No. 4. Close to it is a depth of of fathoms.

8 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Ten Pound Island is surrounded for a short distance by a ledge ; and a rocky ledge also extends towards it from the eastern shore, leaving between only a very narrow channel of 10 ft. water.

Fidd Rocks are on the western side of the harbour at a quarter of a mile from the shore, and half a mile westward from Ten Pound Island. They are above the surface at low tide, and are marked by a black buoy No. 3.

Bauson's Ledge is a rock of 13 ft. water, lying about 200 yards southward from Fort Point, the West point of the inner harbour. It has a black buoy No. 5. There is no safe passage between it and the point.

Pinnacle Rock. - This rock is just within the entrance of the inner harbour, at about 80 yards south-westward of the Spindle Rock off the large wharf. It rises to a point, over which are only 9 ft. at an ordinary tide, and there is deep water around it at not more than 10 ft. from its centre.

Directions. - Approaching Gloucester from Cape Ann, beware of the Londoner, a rock 200 yards in extent, half a mile S.E. by E. from Thatcher's Island South light. There is a channel to the westward a quarter of a mile in width, with 5 and 6 fa- thoms, but strangers should pass to the eastward, not approaching the lights nearer than 1 mile till they bear N.W. With the lights on Thatcher's Island in range, bearing nearly N. by E. £ E., distant 1 mile, steer S.W. by W. J W. 5 miles, till East Point light bears almost North, and then haul round the point to the north- ward and westward, keeping half a mile from it to avoid Webber's Rock and the Dog Bar Ledge.

To anchor in the South-east Harbour, the anchorage south-eastward of Ten Pound Island, where is a depth of 5 to 3£ fathoms on sand, mud, and broken shells, bring the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island to bear N.N.E. J E., and steer thus until within half a mile off, or between it and Black Bess Point, when the course should be altered to E.N.E. J E. If it be desirable to run from this anchorage to the inner harbour, it should be remembered that the passage between Ten Pound Island and the eastern shore is too much obstructed by rocks to be available ; but that a vessel of light draught may run between that island and Ten Pound Island Ledge, there being a depth, according to the chart, of not less than 3J fathoms at low tide.

If intending to enter the inner harbour, bring Ten Pound Island light to bear N.E. and steer N.E. J N., passing between Norman's Woe Rock and the Round Rock Shoal, and also between Field Rock and Ten Pound Island Ledge. When the light bears E.S.E., distant 300 yards, steer N.E. by E. | E. into the harbour.

The northern part of Massachusetts Bay, to the westward of Gloucester Harbour, is indented by many inlets, which form the harbours of Manchester, Beverley, Salem, Marblehead, &c. The approaches to these harbours are between numerous rocks, islets, and shoals, whose relative position can only be understood by referring to the chart. Most of the dangers are marked by buoys or spindles, but as implicit reliance cannot be placed on these, either an intimate acquaintance with the channels, or the aid of a pilot, is indispensable to safety.

The following is a brief enumeration of the dangers and marks : -

Half-way Rock is the outermost from the coast, and one of the most conspicuous. It lies about half-way between the lighthouses of Thatcher's Island and Boston (hence its name), and nearly 2£ miles from the nearest land. It is 180 ft. in dia- meter, 40 ft. high, and has a depth of 12 fathoms or even more water immediately off it. On it there is a pyramidal beacon, bearing a spindle 15 ft. high, on which is a copper ball. The rock bears from the lighthouses on Baker's Island S. £ E., 2 miles.

BAKER'S ISLAND Lighthouses. - The island is about half a mile in extent,

BAKER'S ISLAND - CAT ISLAND. 9

and has a shallow flat of 8 to 10 ft., extending from its north-western side about one-third of a mile, close to which is a depth of 3 and 4 fathoms. On the island are two lighthouses, 29 and 52 ft. high, and only 40 ft. apart, bearing from each other N.W. and S.E., which exhibit fixed lights at 64 and 87 ft. above the sea, visible about 14 miles ; the southernmost of these is the highest. Near the East and South sides of the island are soundings of 5 and 3 fathoms, the latter depth being in the narrow passage separating the island from the Baker's Island Breakers, a channel which must only be attempted by those perfectly acquainted with the navigation. The island is represented as affording no convenient landing place, and its northern and eastern sides are high and rocky.

Baker's Island Breakers consist of an extensive flat which runs off from the South side of Baker's Island, a distance of seven-eighths of a mile in a S.E. by S. direction. On it there are from 2 to 6 ft. water, and several of the rocks are dry, so that it is extremely dangerous, and must be cautiously avoided by all vessels approaching from the southward .and eastward. Two of the rocks bear the name of the North and South Gooseberry, and another the Pope's Head. The edges of this flat are steep, there being a depth of 6 and 8 fathoms immediately off them.

Some reefs, called Outer and South-east Breakers, lie one-third to three-quarters of a mile from the outer edge of Baker's Island Breakers, in the direction of S.E. by S. i S. from the lighthouses. They are marked by black spar buoys, and have deep water around them. To clear them keep southward of the line of bearing - Half-way Rock, W.S.W. J W. ; or do not go south-westward of the lighthouses bearing W.N.W. J AV.

SearFs Hock, with 9 ft. water over it at low tide, lies above half a mile S.E. from the lighthouses. It is marked by a buoy.

3Iisery Island is about a mile from Baker's Island, and is joined by a bar to Little Misery, which makes the North side of the channel opposite Baker's Island. Misery Ledge has 8 ft. least water, and bears N.W. by \V. ~ W. 1£ mile from the light- houses. The South part of Little Misery Island is three-quarters of a mile N.W. | N. from the lights.

Hardy's Hocks, distinguished by a beacon, lie W. f N. from Baker's Island lights, distant five-eighths of a mile. The rocks appear at half-tide. On the East end of Bowditeh's Ledge is a beacon, rebuilt in 1872 as a granite pyramid, surmounted by a mast and cage, painted black. It is altogether 47 ft. high from low-water mark, and bears from Baker's Island lighthouse W.N.W. 1^ mile distant.

Cat Island is about S.W. by W., 1J mile from Baker's Island, and a mile from Marblehead Neck, ranging nearly between the two. On its N.W. end is a high beach, directly opposite the point of Marblehead, called Peach's Point. 'The shore is irregular and rocky. On the southern side of the island are three high rocks, two of which are connected with the island by bars of sand, uncovered at low water. The other stands boldly up between these two, but more southerly. On Cat Island Rock is a spar 40 ft. high, to the top of which is attached a cask, a useful mark from sea.

On the North end of Cat Island there is a large white building used as an hotel, the cupola of which bears S.W. by W. 2 miles from Baker's Island lights.

Archfrs Rock. - At about a quarter of a mile westward from the North end of Cat Island there is a small rock of 15 ft. water, named Ai-cher's. It has a depth of 4 -and 5 fathoms close to it, and is marked by a buoy, the position of which is W. J S. from the hotel on the island.

At 1^ cable's length from the East side of the North end of Cat Island there is a U. S. - Part I. c

10 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

dangerous patch of 20 ft. water, named Martin's Rock, which is marked by a buoy ; and nearly midway between the island and the North Gooseberry Rock, there is a patch of sunken rocks dry at low water, which is also marked by a buoy. These latter rocks, named the Brimblcs, bear from the lighthouses on Baker's Island S.W. by W. J W., distant If miles, and S.S.E. J E. 3 cables' lengths from Eagle Island.

Satan or Black Rock is a black rock nearly level with the water, situate half a mile eastward of Cat Island, in the direction of Halfway Rock. It has a depth of 8 and 10 fathoms close to it, and is marked by a buoy.

Gooseberry Ledge is a small patch If mile S.S.W. \ W. from Baker's Island lights. It has 15 ft. water upon it, and is marked by a buoy.

Marblehead Rock is high out of the water, and will be at once recognised by the beacon upon it. It is three-eighths of a mile S.E. by E. from the lighthouse on Marblehead Neck, and may be closely rounded on its eastern side.

Eagle Island. - This is a small island, situated a little more than half a mile north- eastward of Cat Island. It has a flat of 3, 6, and 12 ft. extending from it half a mile to the northward, upon which there are several dangerous rocks ; its edges are also steep-to, so that it requires care to avoid. The north-western edge of this flat may be avoided by keeping Fort Sewall open northward of Gray's Rock ; on this edge of the flat there is a spar buoy.

House Island is nearly two-thirds of a mile eastward from Misery Islands, and on the East side of the entrance to Manchester Harbour. It is connected to the shore by a shallow flat.

MANCHESTER. - This harbour is the north-westernmost of those within the range of islands and shoals. It has a depth of 3 to 6 fathoms, hard sand and rocky bottom. The Whale's Back, diy at two-thirds ebb, lies in front of the entrance, about midway between House and Great Misery Island. It is marked by two buoys, and within it is Saulis Rock, also marked by a buoy, and which is dry, except with high springs. There are other buoys and marks within the harbour, which affords good shelter from most winds, especially from the northward.

To enter Manchester Harbour you must bring the southern light on Baker's Island to bear S. £ E., and run North 1 mile, where you may anchor on good bottom.

N.B. Eastern Point bears from Baker's Island lights E. by N. J N. 7^ miles dis- tant. Halfway Rock bears from the lights S. 2' E. 3 miles distant. Hardy's Rocks bear from the lights W. J N. distant three-quarters of a mile, and are marked by a spar buoy.

In thick weather a gun will be fired from the lighthouse, in answer to any signal which may then be made.

BEVERLY is 8 miles westward of Manchester Harbour. To enter the harbour of Beverly, follow the directions for Salem Harbour, hereafter given, till you bring the Haste to bear E.S.E., then run "W.N.W. about 2 miles, and you reach Beverly Bar, which is a spot of sand running out from the southern or Salem side of the entrance, and has a black spar buoy upon the head of it, above a quarter of a mile from the shore. The bar has very shoal water on the eastern or outer side, near it, but good anchorage within. There is good water at the head of the bar. Having passed the bar, there is a sandy point from the Beverly or northern side of the entrance ; and beyond this point are the Lobster Rocks marked by a square granite beacon, which bear from the head of the bar West a little South, and not half a mile distant, and they are above water at half-tide. To avoid this point, after having well cleared the bar, you will steer towards Ram-horn Rock, which has also a beacon, and is to be seen at half-tide, bearing S.W. by S. from the head of the bar, one-eighth

SALEM. 11

of a mile distant. There are several fathoms of water within a vessel's length of Ram-horn Rock. Giving this a good berth, you then clear the sandy point, and steer for the Lobster Rock beacon, bearing from Ram-horn beacon N.W. by W^ distant about one- quarter of a mile. Giving this a good berth, you are then oppo- site to the wharves, and may anchor in deep water, and in a very safe and excellent harbour.

SALEM is the oldest and largest seaport but one in old Massachusetts. Its Indian name was Namnkeag. It is nearly surrounded by water, lying between two inlets of the sea, called the North and South Rivers. Its situation is low, but pleasant and healthy. It was the birth-place of Dr. Nathanial Bowditch, the author of the Practical Navigator. The Eastern Railroad passes through Salem, and has a branch thence to Marblehead.

Lights. - To the North of Salem Harbour a fixed bright light is shown on Hos- pital Point. Seen in range with the main light on Baker's Island, it leads up to the Main ship Channel entrance. As an additional guide between Baker and Misery Islands, the light is shown stronger in that direction.

About 6 cables to the southward of the preceding ajixed bright light is shown at Fort Pickering, on the North side of entrance to Salem Harbour. The light is shown from a red iron tower ; it is elevated 25 ft. above the sea, and to be kept on the starboard side in entering. A red light is shown on Derby Wharf, 1 mile S.W. by W. £ W. from Fort Pickering light, and these two lights in line clear the Haste Shoal. There is good anchorage S.W. by S. half a mile from Fort Pickering light, with Derby Wharf light bearing W. by S.

If bound into this harbour, or those adjacent to it. and you fall in with Cape Ann, supposing Cape Ann lights to bear N.N.W. about 2 miles distant, your course will be W.S.W. about 3 leagues, then W. by S. J S. 7 or 8 miles, which will bring you up to the lights on Baker's Island.

But, should you fall in to the southward, when proceeding for the lights, you should, so soon as you have made them, bring and keep the northern or lower light open to the eastward of the other, and thus run for them. This will carry you to the eastward, and clear of the South Breaker of Baker's Island, which is very dangerous. Hospital Point light, in line with the Baker's Island lights, clears the outside ledges as above described.

Should the wind be westerly, when beating up, you should not stand to the south- ward or westward farther than to shut one light in with the other, otherwise you will be in danger of the South Breaker above mentioned ; neither stand to the north- ward farther than to bring the lights W. by S. £ S., or you will be in danger of Gale's Ledge, a ledge which bears from the lights E.N.E. 1£ mile distant. In this course you must guard against the Whale's Back, which dries at one-quarter ebb. It is marked at each end by a red spar buoy, that to the East is No. 6, and to the West No. 8, which bears from the lights N. by E. four-fifths of a mile.

Tlic Common or Ship Channel into Salem is between Baker's Island and Misery Isles. It is about a mile wide ; and you may, so soon as" you are in mid-channel, between Baker's and Miseiy Islands, steer W.N.W. till you have passed Bowditch's Ledge, or until Cat Island comes open to the westward of Eagle Island ; then haul up for the Haste, above mentioned.

You may safely anchor in 5 fathoms ; but, to proceed farther, pass the Haste at the distance of about half a mile on the port, and steer S.W. by W., which will carry you to the harbour. Observe, however, that a rocky ledge stretches from the N.E. end of Winter Island, and that a rock called Abbot's Rock, marked by a stone beacon, lies abreast of it, to avoid which keep a quarter of a mile from shore. This rock had 7 ft. over it at low water.

12 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Be cautious, when keeping off shore, in order to avoid Abbot's Rock, that you do not go so far as to get on the Aqua-vita, sunken rocks, lying E.S.E. nearly half a mile from Fort Pickering, and marked by a beacon.

Should you, when coming from the south eastward, find yourself near the beacon on Halfway Rock, you may bring it S.E., and steer N.W. J W. for the Haste, passing near the Satan or Black Rock. The latter is above water, steep-to, and bears S.W. by S. 1| mile from Baker's Island. It should be left on the port hand, and the black spar buoy on the Brimbles, and the red buoy marking Mid-channel Rock, 1 £ cable W.S.W. from Eagle Istand, on the starboard. By continuing this course, you leave the Haste on the port, and enter the Ship Channel, whence proceed as above directed. Common tides here rise about 12 ft.

The other channels into Salem Harbour, although useful to those well acquainted, and generally marked by buoys, &c., should never be attempted without a pilot.

MAR.BLEHEAD is the southernmost of the group of harbours on this side of Massachusetts Bay, and to which Baker's Island lights form the chief leading mark.

Light. - On the north-western part of the harbour, which trends in about a mile to S.W., is Fort Sewall, and on the N.E. point is a white lighthouse, which shows a bright fixed light, elevated 43 ft., seen 12 miles off. The dangers within the harbour are marked by buoys on the more prominent points, so that when once the entrance is made out there is little risk in entering.

Vessels bound to Marblehead, falling to the southward, and running for the lights on Baker's Island, after making them must keep the North and lower one open to the eastward of the southern light, and run for them, which will carry them to the eastward, and clear of the South Breakers off Baker's Island, which bear from the lights from S.E. J S. to S.S.E. £ E., distant 2J miles, and has the buoy on the S.E. part, as before described.

Having made the lights with a westerly wind, and beating, when within 2J miles of them, you may not stand to the southward and westward so far as to shut the northern light within the southern one, on account of the South Breakers ; nor to the northward farther than to bring the lights to bear W.S.W. i W., on account of Gale's Ledge, which bears from the lights N.E. by E. distant 1J mile.

Drawing near the lights, take care to avoid the ledge called the Whale's Back, marked at each end by a red buoy, which bears from the lights N. by E., distant tour-fifths of a mile.

In going into Marblehead, and being up with the lights, give the North point of Baker's Island a berth of one-quarter of a mile, or less. Having the lights in a line, you will be up with the point. When the South light is open with the North light, you have then passed the point (leaving Misery Island on your starboard hand, which bears from the lights N.W. £ N. four-fifths of a mile). Then steer S.W. by S., or S.S.W., until you bring the South light to bear N.E. by E. £ E., then steer S.W. by W. | W. 3 miles, for Marblelu-ad Harbour. You will leave Hardy's Rocks, Eagle Island, and Gray's Rocks, and their buoys, on the starboard hand ; Pope's Head, Brimbles, and North point of Cat Island on the port hand. The Brimbles bear from Eagle Island S.S.E. \ E., distant half a mile ; and Gray's Rock, from the North point of Cat Island, N.W. by W. seven-eighths of a mile.

Falling in with the South point of Baker's Island, and it blowing hard from the eastward, if you cannot avoid it, you may pass the point by keeping it well on board, say at the distance of from 20 to 50 fathoms from the shore, where you will have from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. When up with the S.W. point, steer W.S.W., which will carry you between the North Gooseberry and Pope's Head, leaving the former on your port haud, and 1'upc's Head on your starboard hand, between which you will

MARBLEHEAD. 13

have from 3| to 5 fathoms of water. So soon as you have passed Pope's Head, haul to the northward, until the South light bears N.E. by E. £ E. ; then steer S.W. by W. J W. for Marblehead Harbour.

The South entrance of the harbour of Marblehead is bold, and may be approached with safety with the light on the point of the neck at the S.E. side of the harbour, bearing from N.N.W. to W. by N., until you are within half a mile of it ; then bring the light to bear W. by S. and run for it until within 2 cables' lengths ; then steer N.W. by W., until the lighthouse bears S.S.W. ; then steer S.W., and anchor with the light bearing from E. by S. to N.E. by E. from a quarter to half a mile distant, in 6 fathoms, good holding ground, and clear bottom, secure from all but easterly gales.

Vessels coming from the eastward, and running for Halfway Rock, distinguished by its beacon, must not bring the rock to bear to the southward of W.S.W., to avoid the South Breaker, which bears from Halfway Rock N.E. £ E. distant 1 mile. Being up with Halfway Rock, and bound into Marblehead, bring the rock to bear E.S.E. | E., and steer W.N.W. \ W. for Fort Head, distant 3 miles, leaving Cat Island on the starboard hand, which bears from Halfway Rock W.N.W., distant If mile ; and Marblehead Rock * on the port hand, which bears from Halfway Rock W. £ N., distant 2 miles. Black Rock bears from Halfway Rock N.W. by W., distant 1J mile. Cat Island Rock and Point Neck bear East and West of each other, distant about 1 mile.

Vessels, being up in Boston Bay, may, by bringing the Boston light to bear S.S.W. , run N.N.E. for Marblehead Rock ; they are distant from each other about 12 miles. Halfway Rock and Boston light bear from each other S.W. and N.E., distant 15 miles.

From the light on the N.E. point of Marblehead Harbour to Nahant Head, the South extreme of the rocky peninsula, the distance is 25£ miles, and within this space are numerous rocks and shoals.

The first of these to the South of the light are Tom Moore's Rocks, which stretch off the Marblehead Peninsula at three-quarters of a mile from the lighthouse, and have a buoy at their outer edge with 4 fathoms close to.

Tinkers Island is a small rocky islet lying off the South end of Marblehead Neck, to which it is joined by a sandy flat, nearly dry at low water. At about a quarter of a mile south-westward from its South end, and separated from it by soundings of 3| to 9 fathoms, is a rock named Roaring Bull, which is marked b*y a buoy.

Pig Rocks, Ram Islands, and Sammy's Rock are all situated at various distances from the shore between Marblehead Neck and Phillip's Point, the North point of Nahant Bay. The Great Pigs, the outermost of these rocks, are as much as 1| mile from the land, and there being deep water in their immediate vicinity, great care is requisite when passing along in thick weather.

Nahant Bay, on the North side of Nahant Peninsula, has a depth of 12 to 7 fathoms, the latter being at about 1J inile from the shore, and almost close to the edge of a shallow fiat of 12 to 7 ft., which thence extends westward to the beach.

* Marblehead Rock bears S.W. about three-quarters of a mile from the western part of Cat Island. It is above water, and may be approached to a short distance without danger. On the rock is a monument, or beacon, painted white at the bottom and black at the top ; it is about 8 ft. in the base and 15 ft. in height. The course and distance from Halfway Rock to Marblehead Fort is W.X.W. \ W. 3 miles, leaving the beacon on Cat Island Rock on the starboard, and the monument on Marblehead Rock on the port side. The monu- ment bears from the beacon W.S.W. j W. seven-eighths of a mile.

H BOSTON TO NEW YORK,

The North point of the bay (Phillip's Point) has a rocky ledge jutting out from it some distance. There being no shelter in the bay, vessels should only anchor in it with winds from the land.

Egg Rock Ligh.tb.OUSe. - In front of Nahant Bay there is a small rock, named the Egg, upon which is a lighthouse, 25 ft. high, which shows a Jlxed red light at 87 ft. above the sea, visible 8 or 10 miles.

NAHANT PENINSULA. - The Nahant Peninsula, or Rock, as it is sometimes called, is about 2 miles in extent, and connected to the shore at its northern end by a low beach, dry at low water. The Nahant Rock is a remarkable spot ; it has an hotel upon its summit, which is a place of great resort for the metropolitan New Englanders ; its area is about 2 miles by three-quarters of a mile, and it is distant nearly 2 miles from the main land, to which it is connected at low water. The ground swell, with its majestic heave, is here going on for ever.

The promontory itself is never wholly left by the ebb ; but from its western ex- tremity there extends a narrow ridge, scarcely broad enough for a horse-path, im- passable for the rocks and seaweed by which it is matted, and extending just at high-water mark from Nahant to the main land. Seaward from this ridge, which is only the connection with the continent, descends an expanse of sand, left bare six hours out of the twelve by the retreating sea, as smooth and hard as marble. For 3 miles it stretches away without shell or stone, a surface of white fine-grained sand, beaten so hard by the eternal operation of the surf that the hoof of a horse scarcely marks it, and the heaviest wheel leaves it as printless as a floor of granite.

Lynn Harbour. - Nahant Peninsula forms, with the coast on its western side, a large shallow bay, the upper part of which takes the name of Lynn Harbour. Lynn is a large and nourishing town situate at the head of the harbour, which is much resorted to by the smaller class of coasting vessels. Shoals, dry at low water, occupy the whole of the harbour, leaving between them narrow channels of generally only a very moderate depth. The depth on the bar is only 2 It. when the tide is out.

There is good anchorage in front of Lynn Harbour in 5 or 6 fathoms, where vessels may ride in bad weather. The mark is the hotel on Nahant Head, E.N.E.

BOSTON.

From the South end of the Nahant Peninsula to Minot's Ledge lighthouse, on one of the Cohasset Rocks, the distance is about 1 1 miles, and in this interval are the various entrances to the extensive series of channels and bays which collectively form the harbour of Boston.

This labyrinth of islets, shoals, and rocks cannot be properly understood by any verbal description. The chart, reduced from that issued by the United States Coast Survey Office in 1857, with subsequent emendations, will afford a far better guide than any lengthened directions.

The assistance of ft pilot is always necessary, and this cannot be too strongly in- sisted on, for notwithstanding that the principal dangers are beaconed and buoyed, and the points of approach well lighted, yet it should never be attempted without cither an exact knowledge or with the aid of a competent pilot.

BOSTON LIGHTHOUSE. - The principal lighthouse is on Little Brewstcr Island, on the North side of the principal entrance in latitude 42° 19' 39" N., and longitude

BOSTON - MINOT LEDGE LIGHTHOUSE. 15

70° 53' 5" W. It is a white circular tower 80 ft. in total height, showing a brilliant revolving light every half minute, elevated 98 ft., visible at 16 miles off. An air trumpet is sounded in foggy weather, giving blasts of 7 seconds at intervals of 43 seconds.

MINOT LEDGE LIGHTHOUSE is 6| miles S.E. £E. from the Little Brewster Island lighthouse, and stands on the outermost of the Cohasset Rocks. It was originally an iron pile structure, which disappeared during a heavy storm, and was succeeded by the present dark grey granite tower, 100 ft. in total height, and show- ing a brilliant fixed light at 92 ft. above the sea, visible 15 miles off. A flog bell is sounded when necessary.

The Narrows Light, on the West end of the Brewster Spit or Bar, abreast the Narrows, is a red fixed light, exhibited from a screw pile lighthouse, and may be seen 7 miles off. It bears westward \\ mile from the Boston lighthouse.

Long Island Lighthouse, is a white iron tower 22 ft. high, on the N.E. end of Long Island, on the South side of President Road. The light is fixed, elevated 80 feet, visible 15 miles off.

DANGERS. - The Graves are a parcel of diy rocks which appear white, lying to the northward and eastward of Boston light. On the N.E. ledge is an iron bell-boat, in 10 fathoms water, Long Island light bearing W.S.W. J W., 4J miles distant, and Boston light S.W. J S., 2f miles distant.

Thieves Ledge, of 4^ fathoms, lies E. J S. of Boston light, distant 3 miles.

Harding Ledge is dry at low water, and on the drying part a shaft is raised, having on its summit, which is 31 1 ft. above low water, a cast-iron ring, set horizon- tally, with twelve wooden pendants attached to the rim. This beacon is entirely black, and from it Boston lighthouse bears N.W. 2£ miles ; Martin's Ledge, North, 2^ miles ; and Minot's Ledge lighthouse, S.E. J E., 4£ miles. A black bell-boat lies off the N.E. side of the ledge.

Martin Ledge lies nearly midway between Thieves Ledge and the Graves, and has on it 13 ft. at low water. Outside the ledge, in 6 fathoms, there is a red nun buoy, No. 2, the Graves bell-boat bearing N. J E. 1J mile ; Harding bell-boat S. % W., nearly 2§ miles, and Long Island light W. 3 S., 4^ miles distant. Between the Outer Brewster and Martin Ledge, on the last-mentioned range, lies Tewkesbury Rock, with 9 ft. on it at low water.

N.W. nearly from Martin Ledge, between Green Island and the Graves, is a ledge of sunken rocks, called the Roaring Bull, S.W. of which is a shoal spot of 10 ft., and N.E. is a spot of 18 ft. water.

Barrel Rock, which was situated N.W. by W. from the North part of Green Island, has been removed by blasting, and now has a depth over it of 22 ft. at mean low water. Vessels can therefore pass over its site in safety.

Devil's Back. - West of Green Island, half a mile distant, is a ledge of rocks, called the Devil's Back, on the northern part of which is a black buoy, No. 1, in 18 feet water, Long Island light bearing W.S.W., 2-| miles distant.

Half-tide Rocks, - E.N.E. one-third of a mile from Devil's Back buoy, lies Maffit's Ledge, on which are 12 ft. water ; and S.S.E. £ E. of the same buoy are the Half- tide Rocks, in Hypocrite Channel, near which is a red spar buoy, No. 2.'

Egg Rocks or Shag Rocks lie East of the North point of Little Brewster Island. The ledge is about one-third of a mile long, and runs N.E. and S.W., nearly. N.E. of the ledge, about half a mile distant, is a shoal spot with 18 ft. water, and about midway between the eastern points of Middle and Little Brewster Islands is another spot of the same depth.

W BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Nash Sock, with 2 ft. water upon it, lies on the northern side of the main ship channel, one-third of a mile S.W. of the western part of Little Brewster.

Kelly's Rock, with 15 ft. water on it, lies to the westward of Nash Hock, ahout midway between it and George's Island, and is also in the main ship channel. Operations for the removal of this danger have been carried on.

Tower Rock lies off the S.W. extremity of Brewster Bar, in mid-channel. It has on it 17 ft. water.

Slack Rock is on Brewster Bar, in the north-eastern parfc of Black Rock Channel.

Ram Head. - A ledge of rocks, called Ram Head, makes off the northern part of Level's Island, on the northern part of which is a black can buoy, No. 5. Long Island bearing W.S.W. £ W., 1J mile distant.

Nix's Mate lies between Long Island and Level's Island, about half a mile from Long Island light. On it there is a square granite beacon, with octagonal pyramid on top, painted black.

A black nun buoy, No. 9, has been placed on the North end of Nix's Mate, in 15 feet at low water.

Hospital Shoal. - Between Rainsford and George's Island is Hospital Shoal, or Wilson Rock, on the northern part of which is placed a black nun buoy, No. 1, in 18*ft. at low water. Long Island light bearing N.N.W. nearly 1£ mile.

The Toddy Rocks lie E.S.E. \ E. from the buoy on the Hospital Shoals ; near them is placed a black nun buoy.

Quarantine and Hangsman Rocks. - South of Rainsford Island are the Quaran- tine Rocks, and South of the rocks lies Hangsman's Ledge, on which is a granite open-work beacon, with a small square cage on the top. The rocks are dry at low water.

There is a rock with 12 ft. water on it, bearing S. 45° W. from Boston light, distant 700 yards. The new beacon on the spit open to the North, with the hotel on Long Island, leads clear to the South of it.

Another rock, with 15 ft. on it, bears S. 75j° W. from Boston light, 770 yards distant, and from the new beacon on the spit South and East, distant 240 yards. The hotel on Long Island shut in entirely with the North part of George's Island, leads clear to the South of it.

Another rock, with 17 ft., bears S. 85f3 W. from Boston light, 2,343 yards distant, and from the old beacon on the spit S. and S.W., 117 yards. Xix's Mate, on the northern edge, or at the farthest the centre, of Bunker Hill monument, leads clear to the South of it. If Bunker Hill monument is not visible, keep Deer Island beacon on the North end of Apple Island, while passing the range of the old beacon spot on the little head of the Great Brewster.

Tewkesbury Rock bears E.N.E. from the Outer Brewster, distant a quarter of a mile, with 9 ft. on it.

The outer ledge of 17 ft. bears E.N.E. from Boston light, 2 miles distant.

There is a red nun buoy, No. 10, on Seventy-four Bar, in 15 ft. water, about 20 fathoms West of the old wreck, which has but 9 ft. on it at low tide. It lies with Nix's Mate beacon, W. J N. ; Nix's Mate buoy, N.W. by W. f W. ; and Deer Island Point beacon, N.W.

Directions. - Coming from the vicinity of Cape Cod, you should keep to the northward of the direct course, if the wind is N.E. ; and to the westward if it is S.W., making allowance for the tide. With a leading wind a direct course may be made good on the flood ; but the ebb sets toward Minot's Ledge light.

If from the vicinity of Cape Ann, no particular precautions are necessary.

Should you fall in with the Scituate land, in a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms, without

BOSTON - MAIN SHIP CHANNEL. 17

having seen the light on the Cohassets Rocks during the night, or thick weather, run North into 17 or 18 fathoms, and steer W.N.W. for Boston light. From the lighthouse on the Cohassets Rocks, Boston lighthouse bears N.W. | W., distant 7 miles. Davis's Ledge lies E. by S. £ S. from Cohassets lighthouse, and has a buoy placed to the N.E. of it to mark the danger.

When near the land and, approaching Minot's Ledge, bring the point of Scituate to bear South, and steer North, which will clear Davis's Ledge, three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, and when you get the lighthouse on the Cohassets Rocks to bear West, steer N.W. by W. for Boston lighthouse, which will lead to the N.E. of the bell-boat on Harding's Ledge ; but in thick weather it is more prudent to steer N.W. until up with the bell-boat, bearing West, then W.N.W., allowing for wind and tide. From oif Nahant Head, and bound for the main ship channel, bring the light on the Egg Rock to bear N.N.W., and steer S.S.E., to pass the Graves, at half a mile to the eastward of the bell-boat riding on them, and when it bears N.W. by W. | W., steer S.S.W. until up with the bearing for entering the channel. Vessels may pass inside the Graves, keeping 1 cable's length from the S.W. point.

Vessels working to windward in Boston Bay up the harbour, may, in the daytime, stretch safely anywhere between Minot's Ledge and Nahant Head until up with the Graves on one side and Harding's Ledge on the other. Do not come nearer the N.E. part of the Graves than half a mile, but the Harding's may be approached pretty near to the bell-boat. Inside of the line from the Graves to the Hardings you may stand to the southward to within half a mile of the shore, and to the northward to within three-quarters of a mile of the East end of the Outer Brewster, or the East end of the Shag or Egg Rocks.

When up with the Egg Rocks, you must stand no farther to the northward than . to bring Boston and Long Island light in range, and in passing Point Allerton be careful not to go inside the buoy. A vessel, not having a pilot, even if a stranger, may beat up to the anchorage inside the lighthouse, in the daytime, by making short boards, and keeping 2 cables' lengths from Lighthouse Island, but should wait there for a commissioned pilot. If you are working up for Boston Harbour in the night, you will avoid the Cohassets and Harding's Ledge by not standing farther to the southward than to bring Boston light to bear W.N.W. When within 2 miles of the light, go no nearer than to bring it to bear West, and when near Egg Rocks you must not pass to the North of Boston and Long Island lights in range.

Main Ship Channel. - When abreast of the lighthouse, bearing North, and in mid-channel, a W. ^ N. course made good leads to the pile lighthouse on the spit ; but if the tide is ebb, or you are on the North side of the channel, steer West or West-southerly, so as to avoid getting on the False Spit. Leave the lighthouse on the starboard hand, and steer N.W. ^ W. past George's Island. In this course you -will have Nix's Mate beacon and the middle of Bunker Hill monument in range until up with the eastern end of Gallop Island. From this point the course through the Narrows is N.W. by N., keeping in mid-channel and steering for the high land on Deer Island until up with Nix's Mate, which leave on the port hand.

When you are passing Nix's Mate you should have Deer Island beacon on the N.E. end of Apple Island for a light ship, and off the South part of Apple Island for a vessel of heavy draught. By observing either of these marks, you will avoid the shoal ground about Nix's Mate. A W. 5 N. course leads from Nix's Mate through President Roads, until the new beacon on the high part of Long Island is just clear of the N.E. bank of Spectacle Island, when the course is N.W., keeping the marks astern in range until abreast of the beacon on the S.E. part of Bird Island.

T. S. - Part I. D

18 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

In steering this latter range, it will lead safely past the Lower Middle, Castle Island Rocks, Governor's Island Point, the Upper Middle, and in the best water over the shoal ground above the Upper Middle. When up with the beacon on Bird Island, steer N.W. by W. £ W. towards the State House, until abreast of the buoy on the Slate Ledge, and then N.W. by N. for the anchorage.

Hypocrite Channel is between the Outer Brewster on the South, and the Sunken Rocks to the northward, thence between the Green and Little Calf Islands to Ram Head, where it joins the Broad Sound Channel. This channel is intricate, and only fit for those acquainted with it, and therefore not to be attempted without a pilot.

Black Rock Channel leads from the main ship channel at the pile lighthouse into the Hypocrite Channel, and is never used by large vessels except in the winter time, to avoid the ice in the Narrows. This channel, too, is narrow and dangerous, and not fit for strangers to attempt.

Broad Sound Channels. - The South .- Vessels intending to enter by the South Channel may stand in anywhere between Nahant Head and the Graves, and steering to the South 'of West, until they bring Nix's Mate beacon to bear S.W. by W. J W., may run for it.

The mark for this channel is Nix's Mate, in the middle of the northern and highest of the Blue Hills. This channel is short and straight ; its range is perfect, and is safe at half or three-quarters flood for the largest ships : especially for vessels out- ward bound. Vessels going out this way will leave Ram Head, Aldridge's Ledge, and Devil's Back buoys on the starboard hand, and the Little Faun and Great Faun beacon on the part hand ; and in running out of Broad Sound will keep Egg Rock open with Nahant Head.

The North Channel passes nearer Deer Island, and is separated from the South Channel by a middle ground. The buoys are passed in the same way as in the latter. The range for this channel is the North head of Long Island (on which the lighthouse stands), in line with the second bluff on the West side. This channel tanuot be recommended, and should not be attempted in bad weather, even by small vessels.

There is another channel out, used by vessels in light winds on the ebb, to prevent being set into the Sound at Nix's Mate, or the East end of Lovel's Island. This is to the southward of President Roads, Spectacle Island, and Long Island, and through Nantasket Roads to the main ship channel South of Boston light, and is termed the Sack or Western Way.

NANTASKET ROADS. - To take Nantasket Roads from outside, when Boston light bears North, thi-ee-eighths of a mile distant, steer W. £ S. to the buoys on the Centurion; leave these on the starboard hand close to; and steer W.S.W. until Long Island light opens clear to the S.W. part of George's Island, then haul up for the light, and run in for the anchorage.

Anchorages. - President Roads, South of a line from Nix's Mate to Castle Island, in sticky bottom.

Nantasket Road. - Nix's Mate just on with Gallop Island, and Boston light shut well on to George's Island, give the best ship anchorage. Heavy vessels anchor farther South.

There is a convenient refuge for coasters in N.E. winds under Spectacle Island.

Vessels caught in bad weather near Nahant without a pilot may anchor to the West of Nahant, in from 5 to 6 fathoms, by opening Lynn Harbour, and bringing the hotel to bear E.N.E.

BOSTON - SCITU ATE. 19

Vessels waiting for a pilot may anchor in the main ship channel any where between the lighthouse and Nantasket Beach.

Dangers. - The principal dangers in and about Boston Harbour are the rocks and ledges near the shore, under the surface, and surrounded by deep water. Persons ignorant of the ground are cautioned not to approach them without a pilot, The following are particularly to be avoided : - Davis's Ledge, near the Minot's ; Martin's Ledge and Tewkesbury Rock, near the Outer Brewster, and Maffit's Ledge, North of the Devil's Back, which are dangerous to vessels beating into Boston Bay and Broad Sound.

To vessels outward bound from Boston lighthouse, who would wish to fall in with Cape Cod, the course is S.E. by E. \ E., distant 11 leagues, thence 3 leagues to the lighthouse ; and when it bears S.W., 2 leagues distant, you may then steer S.S.E., which will carry you out of the South Channel.

Vessels in Boston Bay, which bear away for Cape Cod Harbour, must endeavour to fall in with Race Point lighthouse, which shows a flashing light, and run for it till within half a mile ; when it bears E.N.E. haul up E.S.E., or as near as the wind will permit, and anchor in from 10 to 4 fathoms, in Herring Cove, where there is good shelter with the wind from N.N.E. to S.E. by E. Should the wind shift to the N.W., Provincetown Harbour is under the lee to which we refer; should you first make Cape Cod light, bring it to bear E. by N., and run for it till you have sound- ings in 14 or 15 fathoms ; then steer N.E. until the light bears E. by S. ; then run- in X.W. for the harbour.

Between Cape Ann and Cape Cod there are from 50 to 17 fathoms : the latter 4£ miles N. by E. from the Race light, with 55 fathoms inside. S.E. by E. \ E. from Boston light to the Race light there is a ridge of rocks and sand of 7 to 23 fathoms water, with a small gully of 37 fathoms, 20 miles from Boston light. To the North of this ridge the bottom is generally muddy, and the depth from 40 to 50 fathoms.

It is high water, full and change, off Race Point, at 10h 45m. Vessels leaving Cape Cod, bound to Boston, should calculate the tide, as the flood sets strongly to the S.W. off Cape Cod, from the Race to Chatham ; flood sets to the South, ebb to the North ; southern tide 9 hours, northern tide 3 hours.

BOSTON, the capital of New England, and the second place, in point of com- merce, in the United States, consists of three parts - Old, South, and East Boston ; and its harbour is one of the best in the United States. The Eastern Railroad com- mences at East Boston. The Lowell Railway runs on the bridge over Charles River, and the Worcester and Providence Railroads run from the South side of the city. By means of these communications, this city has become the focus of much commerce.

SCITUATE. - At 4| miles S. by W. from Minot Ledge lighthouse is the entrance to Scituate Harbour. Cedar Point makes the North chop of the harbour ; the first cliff, so called, making the South chop. There are four of these cliffs extending towards the North, the southernmost of which is the highest. The harbour is small, having only about 12 ft. of water on the bar at high water, middling tides.

From the northerly part of Cedar Point a ledge, called Long Ledge, extends N.N.W. nearly 1 mile. Ledges extend from all the four cliffs, but none between ; and half a mile from shore will clear all, except for large vessels.

There is a passage within the Cohasset Rocks, used by coasters, which is found by giving the light a berth of half a mile, and running N.W. by N. to the southerly entering rock.

At about 2 miles W. by N. from Cedar Point is a meeting-house, and near the N.W. side of the harbour is a farmhouse, with two large barns at a little to the

20 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

North. To enter the harbour, the mouth of which is about one-third of a mile broad, bring the meeting-house or farm-house to bear about W. by N. from the middle of the entrance, and run in, on that direction, for the farm-house, until you have passed the bar, which is a hard bed of stones and gravel that does not shift ; and, after passing the bar, and coming on sandy bottom, haul up and anchor near the beach, on the South side of the harbour.

The Coast to the southward of Scituate trends south-eastward for 8 miles to Brant Point, and offers nothing remarkable.

Off Brant Point is HoiclancTs Hock, a ledge of only 7 ft. water, lying at 1 J mile due West from the shore, with Gurnet lights bearing S. J E., distant 4J miles. Within this ledge, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, is Egg Rock. These dangers are marked by a buoy ; close outside is a depth of 4 to 9 fathoms.

To the southward of Egg Rock the coast is formed by a narrow neck of land, called Salthouse Beach, enclosing the northern part of Plymouth Harbour, and ter- minating in Gurnet Point. On this coast, at 3J miles from Brant Point, and 2 miles northward of Gurnet Point, is a very dangerous reef, called the High Pine Ledge, which extends out for a mile, and has 7 ft. water on the reef, and dries in one spot. It is marked by a black spar buoy, lying in 15 ft. water, with the Gurnet Rocks bearing S. £ W., Captain's Hill W. J S., and Brant Point N. by W.

Gurnet Point Lighthouses' - The point is a round hummock at the termination of Salthouse Beach. Two white octagonal wooden lighthouses stand on it, 30 ft. apart, N.W. and S.E., and each 33 ft. high, showing bright fixed lights, elevated 93 feet each, and visible 15 miles off, and are so situated that they cannot be brought in a line to the northward, unless to those on shore. But to the southward these lights may be brought in one, and lead clear of Brown's Island or Bank. On Salthouse Beach stands (or stood) one of the huts erected for the reception of shipwrecked mariners. There is a breach in the inner beach, which exposes the shipping, even at the wharves at Plymouth during an easterly storm.

PLYMOUTH. - This harbour may be known by a round hummock, lying on its northern side, called the Gurnet, upon which the two lights are established ; and on its southern side by a double high land, called Monumet. The Monumet side is full of shoals and quicksands, which dry in several places ; but on the Gurnet or North side there is a fair channel, in which you may ride safely with any wind but an easterly one. But, should an easterly wind happen to blow so hard as to force you from your anchor, you must run farther up the harbour, and anchor within the sandy island called Brown's Island.

The harbour of Plymouth is capacious, but shallow, and is formed by a long and narrow neck of land, called Salthouse Beach, extending southerly from Marshjicld, and terminating at the Gurnet Head ; and by a smaller beach within, ruinning in an opposite direction, and connected with the main land near Eel River. Plymouth is interesting as being the oldest European settlement in New England. It was the landing place of some English emigrants on December 22nd, 1620.

In coming from the northward, bound to Plymouth, you must not bring the lights to bear South of S. by W. to clear High Pine Ledge, which lies about 2£ miles North of the Gurnet. Off this ledge there is a spar buoy (red, No. 6). When in the channel, abreast of these lights, run up W. f S. for Duxbury Pier light, and leave it on the starboard hand. In running in from South to East, bring ' Gurnet's ' lights in range until Duxbury Pier light bears W. % S., when you will be midway between the lights and nun buoy on Brown's Island Shoal ; then steer W. by S. until Duxbury Pier bears W. by N., when you will be midway between red buoy No. 6 add black buoy No. 5 ; then steer W. J N. Pass between red buoy No. 8 and black

BARNSTAPLE. 21

buoy No. 7, leaving Duxbury Pier light one -half cable's length on starboard hand ; then steer North, and anchor under the lee of Muscle Bank in from 5 to 8 fathoms of water, or continue on same course between red buoy No. 10 and black buoy No. 9, and anchor in " Cowyard " in from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. This is a good harbour for vessels overtaken in easterly storms. Depth of water in channel at low tide, 18 feet.

Duxbury Pier Lighthouse, on the North side of the channel, within Saquish Head, is a red iron lighthouse, constructed in 7 ft. water, from which a fixed white light is shown at an elevation of 40 ft. above the sea, and visible 11 miles off.

If bound into Cow Yard, steer North half a mile, passing to port, or on the West side of Duxbury Pier, and giving it a berth of 100 yards. Anchor in 4J fathoms, with Duxbury Pier light S.E. | E.

When beating into Plymouth Harbour, do not stand into less than 3 fathoms on the northerly tack. On the southerly tack the best guide is the rips marking the edge of Brown's Island or Shoal, which can be distinctly seen.

White Horse Lone Rock, - The South point of Plymouth Bay is named Elishd's Point , it should not be closely approached, because a rock, known as the White Horse Lone Rock, lies off it at a short distance, in the immediate vicinity of which is a depth of 6| fathoms.

Manomet Point. - At 1\ miles south-eastward from Elisha's Point, and 5| miles southward from Gurnet Point is Manomet Point, off which are the dangers termed the Mary Ann Rocks. These are from half to three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and have a depth of 7| fathoms close to outside them, and 5J fathoms in the narrow channel which separates them from the sunken ledge jutting out from the point.

A 6-feet sunken rock, named Stellwayeiis Rock, has been discovered at about a mile from the shore, from which Manomet Point bears nearly North 2 miles. It has a depth of 5 and 7 fathoms in its immediate vicinity.

From Manomet Point southward, the shore of Cape Cod Bay is lined by a flat of 10 to 16 ft., which extends out in some places more than a mile. In other respects there is deep water over the whole surface of the bay, with the exception of the extensive Billingsgate Shoal, mentioned subsequently.

It is high water on the bar, on the full and change, at 10h 19™.

Should you make the Gurnet lights in the night, during hard northerly or north- west winds, and cannot get into the harbour of Plymouth, you may run for that of Cape Cod, the point at the entrance of which bears from the Gurnet lights E. £ S. about 10 miles. It is bold-to, and, unless it be very dark, you may see the sandy hills before you can get on shore.

BARNSTAPLE. - The entrance of the port of Banstaple bears S. by W., 19 miles from Race Point light, and S.E. J S., 7 leagues from the Plymouth or Gurnet lights. A fixed harbour light is established on Sandy Neck. On advancing from the northward, keep into 5 fathoms of water until the lighthouse bears S.W. by S. J S., which will bring you up to the red buoy No. 2 on the bar ; haul close round this buoy, leaving it on your starboard side ; then steer S.W. by W. ^ W. for black buoy No. 1, clearing it on the port hand. Be careful to make the above courses good, as the flood sets strongly over Yarmouth Flats, and the ebb strong to the northward over the bar. Continue to run for the light until within a cable's length of the beach, and follow the shore round the point. There is safe anchorage inside, abreast of the light, against all winds, the light bearing from S.W. to N.E., in from 5 to 2J fathoms. There are 7 ft. of water on the bar at low water, and the tide flows 10 ft.

22 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Vessels drawing 8 ft. may, at high water, bring the light to bear S.W. £ W., and run directly for it. High water, full and change, at llh.

WELLFLEET. - Billingsgate Island lighthouse, at the entrance of Wellfleet Bay, is 5 leagues S.E. by S. from the light on Race Point, and exhibits a fixed light at 5'Z feet above the sea, and is situated so far up Barnstaple Bay that it cannot be mis- taken for any other. The island is about 13 ft. above high water, and from the West end extends a long shoal of hard sand, 10 or 11 miles from W. by S. to W. by N. from the lighthouse, and in a N.W. to W.N.W. direction, 5 or 6 miles.

The surface of the bay is almost wholly occupied by shallow flats, even, or nearly so, with the surface at low water, and there are some rocks in the middle of the bay, bearing the names of Middle, Lumjjfish, Wood's Beach, Sand, and Channel Islands, the situations of which can be best seen by a reference to the chart. The most dan- gerous of these, or those most in the way of vessels, are marked by buoys. Between these rocks, and in a direction nearly parallel to the islets, is a channel averaging in depth 2J to 5£ fathoms, access to which is over a bar of 7 ft. Vessels anchor in this channel and obtain shelter from almost all winds.

When running for Wellfleet Bay it is necessary to give a wide berth to the western side of Billingsgate Island, because a shoal of 8 to 15 ft. extends from it nearly 5i miles W. by S. J S. from the lighthouse. This is marked by the buoy at its extreme point, but thence it gradually increases in breadth eastward until its base includes the whole of the islands forming the West side of the bay ; consequently it forms a very prominent danger to vessels approaching from the northward. Although so dangerous to vessels bound to the bay, most excellent shelter from northerly gales can be obtained under it. Its ledges are steep-to, especially on its southern side, where the lead will drop from 10 to 14 ft. into 4£ fathoms.

When bound to Wellfleet from Cape Cod, get the lighthouse on Race Point to- bear East 1£ mile, and steer S. J E., maintaining at the same time a good lookout for the buoy on the extremity of Billingsgate Shoal. When up with it, pass it on the West side, and bring the lighthouse on Billingsgate Island to bear E.N.E., and then steer E. by N. f N., until the lighthouse bears N.E. by E. | E., at which time you will be 2 miles from it, and in a depth of 4 or 4j fathoms, sandy bottom, and should anchor.

When beating up the channel, care must be taken not to approach too near Bil- lingsgate Shoal, as the soundings decrease rapidly. Good anchorage may be obtained farther in the bay in 3 or 4 fathoms water on soft bottom, at four-fifths of a mile S. £ E. from the lighthouse, but the approach to it should not be attempted by vessels of burthen without a pilot.

There is a small fixed light on Mayo's Beach at the head of Wellfleet Bay, visible about 11 miles off.

CAPE COD PENINSULA. - Cape Cod is the northern part of the peninsula of Barnstaple, anciently called Namset, and now that of Cape Cod or Codd. On the hook of the Cape is Provincetoicn, distinguished by its useful harbour of refuge, which has a depth of water for any ships. This harbour, generally known as Cape Cod Harbour, has a light on Long Point, and another on Wood End to the S.E. On the West extremity of Cape Cod, called Race Point, is a small lighthouse ; and there is a larger, called that of the Clay Ponds, or the Highlands, 8| miles more to the S.E. ; and still farther to the South are the three lights on Nauset Beach. The inhabitants depend chiefly on the cod-fishery for subsistence.

The Highlands Light, or the Clay Ponds, in lat. 42° 2' 21", and long. 70° 3' 38', is erected on land elevated 140 ft. ; which, with the elevation of the lantern, makes the whole height 195 ft. above high-water mark. The light is bright and fu:cd.

CAPE COD HARBOUR AND PROVINCETOWN. 23

There is generally a haze over the Cape, and the light is seldom seen at more than 6 leagues off. A first-class Daboll trumpet is sounded here in thick weather, giving blasts of 8 seconds' duration, at intervals of 30 seconds.

If outward bound from Boston lighthouse, and you would wish to fall in with Cape Cod, the course is E.S.E. 13 leagues ; thence 3 leagues to the lighthouse. When up with the lighthouse, and it hears S.W. 2 leagues, you may thence steer to the S.E.

If inward bound, and you want to fall in with the hack of Cape Cod, bring the light to bear S.W. 2 leagues distant, then steer W.N.W. for Boston lighthouse.

Race Point Lighthouse is a rubble-stone whitewashed tower, 31 ft. high, built on the point, at 155 ft. distant from high- water mark. The light, elevated 47 ft. above the sea level, is a fixed bright light, varied by a bright flash every 1| minute. It is visible 12 miles off between S.E. by S. J S. by the westward to N.E. J E.

A steam fog whistle is sounded at this station in thick weather, two short blasts in quick succession, followed by an interval of 44 seconds.

Race Point is very hold-to, and has a number of fishermen's huts on it. To the southward of Race Point is what is called Herring Cove, where there is good an- choring half a mile from the shore (the wind being from East to N.N.E.), in 4, or even in 3, fathoms.

Good anchorage may be found in a N.E. gale, by running for Race Point Light, giving it one-third of a mile distance as you pass it, as soon as it bears E.N.E., when you will be safe with the wind from N.N.E. to S.E. by E. ; haul up E.S.E., and an- chor in from 10 to 4 fathoms. This lighthouse was erected to guide vessels into Provincetown or Cape Cod Harbour, and to enable those which are caught in Boston Bay with an easterly gale to find safe anchorage.

CAPE COD HARBOUR and PROVINCETOWN - Vessels bound for Pro- vincetown or Cape Cod Harbour, may run for the light on Race Point when it bears S.S.W., or anywhere to the eastward of it.

Sailing Directions for entering Provincetown Harbour : - When three-quarters of a mile off shore, with Race Point light bearing East, run S.S.E., until Cape Cod light opens South of Long Point light, or Wood End light, described below, bears S.E. by E. | E. ; then run S.E. £ S. until Cape Cod light opens South of Wood End light, or Wood End light bears E. ^ N. ; then run S.E. by E. J E., until Townhouse at Provincetown, opens East of Wood End light, or Wood End light bears N. by E. ; then run E. by N. until Townhouse opens East of Long Point light, or Long Point light bears N.N.W. J W. ; then run North until Wood End light is in range with Long Point light, or Long Point light bears S.W. by W. £ W. ; then W. by N. ; and anchor in from 8 to 4 fathoms of water, with Wood End light bearing S.W. by S. i S., and Long Point light S.E. £ E.

In running from Race Point to the Wood End, you must not make too free with the land, as there are some shoals which extend above a quarter of a mile off shore. The northern one lies 1J mile S.S.W. from Race Point light, called Shank-painter Bar, and has 9 ft. on it ; and another called the Wood End Bar, with 8 ft. at low springs. The shoals consist of hard sand ; while outside the bold edge of this shoal water there is sand, mud, and clay, and within a very short distance, 30 fathoms and upwards. Cape Cod light, open South of the Wood End light, carries clear of these.

In beating into Provincetown Harbour, stand to the eastward into 4 or 3^ fathoms, but no farther westward than into 8 fathoms, in order to avoid the spit of Long Point, which is steep to 9 or 10 fathoms.

Lights. - At Wood End a red light, revolving every 15 seconds, is shown from a brown brick tower 41 ft. high. The light is elevated 45 ft. above the sea, and visible

'2i BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

11 miles off. From Wood End lighthouse Race Point bears N.W. by N. ; Town- house, Provincetown, N. by E. | E. ; Long Point light, N.E. by E. | E. ; Cape Cod light, East; Billingsgate Island light, S. by E. £ E. ; Sandy Neck light, S.S.W. ; Plymouth lights, W. £ N. ; Minot's Ledge light, N.W. | W. Upon Long Point, at the entrance of Cape Cod Harbour, there is a. fixed harbour light. It is close to the point, and is 28 ft. above the sea.

In running from Race Point to Wood End, after you pass the Blackland or Hum- mocks, avoiding the shoals previously mentioned, you will come up with a low sandy beach which forms the harbour, extending between 2 and 3 miles to Wood End, marked by its lighthouse ; it is very bold, and you will have 25 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of the shore.

Long Point, the extremity of Cape Cod Peninsula, is bold-to, and has 10 fathoms water within 100 yards of the lighthouse ; bat to the eastward of it, there is a spit, called the Long Point Bar, which has only 3 fathoms on it at a quarter of a mile East by compass from the light. From this the village of Provincctown bears about a mile, and extends along the shore nearly 2 miles, and has several wharves and jetties. In the deeper water of Cape Cod Harbour, the depth is 9 and 10 fathoms ; the bottom is of soft mud ; but in the shoaler water, which gradually extends towards Provincetown, it is of hard sand.

Vessels caught in Boston Bay, in an easterly gale, should endeavour to make Race Point light. If you can make the light, run within half a mile of it ; so soon as it bears E.N.E. haul up E.S.E., or as near that as the wind will permit, and anchor in from 10 to 4 fathoms of water, where you will find a lee with the wind from N.N.E. to E.S.E. Should it shift to N.W., you have Cape Cod Harbour under your lee. Large ships should not bring the light to bear more westerly than N. by W., and steer S. by E. to pass Wood End Bar in 10 fathoms. So soon as the light on the high land of Cape Cod bears E. by N., run N.E. until you get into 8 fathoms, where you may anchor with the high light bearing East.

Large ships should bring the light on Race Point to bear N. by W., and steer S. by E. until the Long Point light bears N.E. by N., in order to pass Wood End Bar in 10 fathoms ; continue this course until Long Point light bears N.E. by N., then steer N.E. until you are in 8 fathoms of water, when you should anchor with the high light on the high lands of Tape Cod, bearing from E. £ N. to E. 5 S.

At full and change it is high water off Race Point at llh 45m ; rise from 12 to 15 feet. On leaving Cape Cod, if bound for Boston, you must calculate the tide, as the flood sets strongly to the S.W.

The lighthouse of Cape Ann and the high light of Cape Cod bear from each other S.S.E. J E. and N.N.W. £ W., distant 13£ leagues.

The curvature of the shore, on the West side of Provincetown, and South of Race Point, is called Herring Cove, which is 3 miles in length. On Race Point, besides the lighthouse, stand about a dozen fishing-huts. The distance from these huts to Provincetown, which lies on Cape Cod Harbour, is 3 miles. The passage is over a sandy beach. It would be difficut, if not impossible, for a stranger to find his way thither in the dark. Not far from Race Point commences a ridge, which extends to the head of Stout's Creek. With the face to the East, on the left hand of the ridge, is the sandy shore ; on the right is a narrow sandy valley ; beyond which is naked sand, reaching to the hills and woods of Provincetown.

On this ridge, halfway between Race Point and the head of Stout's Creek, is (or was) a hut. It stands a mile from Peaked Hill, a land-mark well known to seamen, and is about 2J miles to Race Point. At the head of Stout's Creek is (or was) a second hut. Stout's Creek is a small branch of East Harbour, in Truro.

XAUSET BEACH. 25

From the head of Stout's Creek to the termination of the salt marsh, which lies on both sides, and at the head of the East Harbour River, the distance is about three miles and a half. A narrow beach separated this river from the ocean. It is not so regular a ridge as that before described, as there are on it one or two hills, which the neighbouring inhabitants call islands.

The shore, which extends from this valley to Race Point, is unquestionably the part of the coast most exposed to shipwrecks. A N.E. storm, the most violent and fatal to seamen, as it is frequently accompanied with snow, blows directly on the land ; a strong current sets along the shore ; add to which, that ships, during the operation of such a storm, endeavour to work to the northward, that they may get into the bay. Should they be unable to weather Race Point, the wind drives them on the shore, and a shipwreck is inevitable.

From the valley above mentioned the land rises, and less than a mile from it the high land commences ; on the first elevated spot (the Clay Ponds) stands the light- house, previously mentioned. The shore here turns to the South ; and the high land extends to the table land of Eastham. This high land approaches the ocean with steep and lofty banks, which it is extremely difficult to climb, especially in a storm. In violent tempests, during very high tides, the sea -breaks against the foot of them, rendering it then unsafe to walk on the strand, which lies between them and the ocean. Should the seaman succeed in his attempt to ascend them, he must forbear to penetrate into the country, as houses are generally so remote that they would escape his research during the night ; he must pass on to the valleys, by which the banks are intersected. These valleys, which the inhabitants call Hollows, run at right angles with the shore ; and in the middle, or lowest part of them, a road leads from the dwelling-houses to the sea.

From Fresh Brook Hollow, the tenth from the Higlands lighthouse, to the com- mencement of Nauset Beach, the bank next the ocean, is about 60 ft. high. There are houses scattered over the plain open country ; but none of them are nearer than a mile to the shore. In a storm of wind and rain, they might be discerned by day- light ; but in a snow-storm, which rages here with excessive fury, it would be almost impossible to discover them, either by night or by day.

Nauset Beach, begins in lat. 41° 51', and extends 10 miles to South. It is divided into two parts, by a breach which the ocean has made through it. This breach is the mouth of Nauset or Stage Harbour ; and, from the opening, the beach extends North 2^ miles, till it joins the main land. It is about a furlong wide, and forms Nauset Harbour, which is of little value, its entrance being obstructed by a bar. This northern part of the beach may be distinguished from the southern part by its being of a less regular form. Storms have made frequent irruptions through the ridge on which beach-grass grows.

Lighthouses. - On an elevated part of the beach, about 4J miles North of the mouth of Nauset Harbour, are three lighthouses, circular buildings 18 feet high, painted white, and 50 yards apart North and South. They each show a bright fixed light at 93 ft. above the sea level, and visible 10 miles off; abreast of these lights the tides divide and run in opposite directions.

The southern part of Nauset Beach, most commonly called Chatham Beach, and sometimes Potanumaqunt Beach, begins at the mouth of Nauset Harbour, and ex- tends 8 or 9 miles South to the mouth of Chatham Harbour. A regular, well-formed ridge, which in the most elevated part of it is 40 ft. high, runs the whole lengh of it, and, with the exception of a few spots, is covered with beach-grass. This beach forms the barrier of Chatham Harbour, which, from Strong Island, North, receives U. S. - Part I. E

26 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

the name of Pleasant Say. A mile South of the entrance of Nauset Harbour it joins the main land of Orleans, except in very high tides, when the sea flows from the north-eastern arm of Pleasant Bay into the harbour of Nauset, completely insu- lating the beach.

The beach of Cape Malabar, or the sandy point of Chatham, stretches from Chatham, 10 miles into the sea, towards Nautucket, and is from a quarter to three- quarters of a mile in breadth. It is continually gaining South. On the East side of the beach is a curve in the shore, called Stewart's Bend, where vessels may anchor with safety in 3 or 4 fathoms of water, when the wind blows from North to S.\V. North of the Bend there are several bars and shoals. A little below the middle of the beach, on the West side, is Wreck Cove, which is navigable for boats only.

The whole of the coast, from Cape Cod to Cape Malabar, the S. end of Monomoy Island, is sandy, and free from rocks. Along the shore, at the distance of half a mile, is a bar, which is called the outer bar, because there are smaller bars within it, per- petually varying. This outer bar is separated into many parts by guzzles, or small channels. It extends to Chatham ; and, as it proceeds southward, gi'adually ap- proaches the shore, and grows more shallow. Its general depth at high water is 2 fathoms, and 3 fathoms over the guzzles ; and its least distance from the shore is about a furlong. Off the mouth of Chatham Harbour there are bars which reach three-quarters of a mile ; and off the entrance of Nauset Harbour the bars extend half a mile. Large heavy ships strike on the outer bar, even at high water, and their fragments only reach the shore. But smaller vessels pass over it at full sea ; and when they touch at low water, they beat over it, as the tide rises, and soon come to the land. If a vessel is cast away at low water, it ought to be left with as much expedition as possible ; because the fury of the waves is then checked, in some mea- sure, by the bar ; and because the vessel is generally broken to pieces w;.th the rising flood. But seamen, shipwrecked at full sea, ought to remain on board till near low water ; for the vessel does not then break to pieces ; and, by attempting to reach the land before the tide ebbs away, they are in great danger of being drowed. On this subject there is one opinion only among judicious mariners. It may be necessary, however, to remind them of a truth, of which they have full conviction, but which, amidst the agitation and terror of a storm, they too frequently forget.

CHATHAM HARBOUR, on the south-eastern part of the peninsula of Cape Cod,, sheltered by the narrow spit of Nauset Beach, is a convenient station for the fishery. It has but 11 ft. of water at low tide, and the bar is frequently shifting. The vicinity has been remarkable for shipwrecks, as already shown. The access, however, was ranch improved by two lighthouses, 40 ft. high, on the point called James's Head, the lanterns of which are 70 ft. above the sea, and show Jixcd lights, which may be seen 5 or 6 leagues off, and are very useful to vessels bound to Nan- tucket, &c. But since their erection the beach has extended 2 or 3 miles, so that they are now only serviceable in running over the shoals. A pilot is therefore in- dispensable.

MONOMOY ISLAND, a narrow sandy ridge about 4 miles in length, is appa- rently a prolongation of Nauset Beach, which was parallel to the low shore of the Cape Cod Peninsula, leaving the shallow opening into Chatham Harbour at 3 miles southward of the lighthouses. To the south-eastward af its southern part is an ex- tensive cluster of shoals, the northern abutment of the Nantucket Shoals.

The Lighthouse on Cape Malabar, the S.E. end of Monomoy Island, is a red iron tower, 30 ft. high, which shows a bright fixed light, elevated 41 ft., and seen 12 miles off. A lifeboat is maintained near the lighthouse.

BUTLER'S HOLE. 27

The S.W. point of Monomoy curves to the northward, and shelters an anchorage called the Powder Hole.

The Pollock Rip is one of the shoals eastward of the South end of Monomoy Island. It consists of two parts, the outermost 4 miles from the island, and each has patches of not more than 9 or 10 ft. water.

The Pollock Rip Lightvessel, moored in 6 fathoms, 3£ miles S.E. by E. £ E. from Monomoy lighthouse, on the southern side of the shoal, 1£ mile S.E. from its shoalest (7 ft.) spot, is coloured red, and exhibits a fixed light at 45 ft. from the water, visible 12 miles in clear weather; and in the daytime a red hoop-iron day mark is hoisted at the mast-head. During foggy weather a bell is rung, and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. A S. S.W. course up to, or a N.N.E. course for 2 miles from this lightvessel, will, if made good, take a vessel through the slue or swashway, over the shoal, in not less than 3 fathoms ; the black buoy, distant half a mile North from the lightvessel, must be passed close to on its eastern side. Another first-class nun buoy No. 2, is placed N.N.E. from this vessel, on the broken part of Pollock Rip, which should be kept close on the port hand in going to sea through northern slue.

An E. by S. | S. course from this lightvessel, or by keeping this lightvessel in line with the Shovelfull lightvessel, until Chatham lights bear N. by W. £ W., leads clear to the East of the broken part of the Pollock Rip.

The Sh.OVelfu.il Shoal extends for three-quarters of a mile southwai'd of Mono- moy Island, and is nearly awash in many parts. To the West of it is an irregularly formed shoal, nearly 4 miles in extent, North and South, called the Handkerchief, which has extensive patches of from 6 to 12 ft. of water. There is a channel be- tween its eastern edge and the Shovelfull Shoal, nearly half a mile wide, with from 4 to 7 fathoms on it. This shoal, like the Shovelfull, is marked by a lightvessel.

BTJTLER'S HOLE is the channel to the southward of the shoals last named, and is bounded to the south-eastward by the Stone Horse or Broken Rips, being \\ mile in width, with from 7 to 1 0 fathoms throughout. The prominent points and edges of the banks on this channel are marked by black buoys to northward, and red buoys to southward : but too much dependance should not be placed upon these. Besides the Pollock Rip lightvessel, previously mentioned, it is well marked by the two following : -

The Shovelfull Lightvessel is moored in the southern part of the channel be- tween that shoal and the Handkerchief Bank, W. by N. ^ N. from the Pollock Rip lightvessel, and to the southward and westward of the Monomoy lighthouse. It is painted green, and shows a fixed light 40 ft. high, visible 11 miles off. A red hoop- iron work at the mast-head serves as a day-mark, and in foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. By preserving a W. by N. £ N. course from Pollock Rip lightvessel, you will not have less than 4 fathoms up to the Shovelfull ; and by passing a red buoy, and leaving the latter lightship close on your port hand, and the opposite black buoy on the South edge of that shoal on the starboard, you may steer N. f W. towards Powder Hole on the northern shore of the sound.

The Handkerchief Shoal Lightvessel is schooner-rigged, with a black oval grating day-mark at each mast-head, and her hull is painted straw colour, with " Handkerchief" in large black letters on each side. It lies in 5£ fathoms, 1| mile southward of the South part of the shore, with Monomoy lighthouse N.E. $ N., and Great Point lighthouse S. | W., and shows a fixed light 40 ft. above the level of the sea, visible 1 1 miles off.

This and the Pollock Rip and Shovelfull lightvessels serve as excellent guides to

28 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

vessels entering Nantucket Sound through Butler's Hole, for, by steering West for nearly 3 miles from Pollock Rip lightvessel, or till Monomoy lighthouse bears North, and then shaping a S.W. by W. course towards the Handkerchief lightvessel, which may be passed on either side, they will go clear of the Pollock Rip, Shovelfull, and Handkerchief on the starboard, and of the Broken Rips or Stone Horse Shoal on the port hand, in not less than 17 or 18 ft. water.

NANTUCKET and VINEYARD SOUNDS - These sounds comprise all the navigation between the Malabar Point of Monomoy, on the East, and Suzzard'a Say on the West ; an extent of 40 miles. The southern boundaries are the islands of Nantucket, Tuckernuck, Chappaquiddick, and Martha's Vineyard, which are alto- gether connected by shoal grounds. The eastern entrance (3 leagues broad) is im- peded by numerous rips and other shoals, as just mentioned, as are likewise the central and western parts ; and the whole presents an aspect of drowned lands which, it is thought, were at some period anterior to history connected with the main.

The intricate navigation of the several channel has been greatly facilitated by nu- merous lighthouses, buoys, and beacons. On the N.E., or Sandy Point of Nantucket, is a fixed light, at 70 ft. above the level of the sea. On the western side of the entrance to Nantucket Harbour are two harbour lights. At 7 miles W.N.VY. from the N.E. point of Nantucket is a floating light, on the N.E. end of Tuckernuck Shoal ; and on Cape Poge, opposite to the N.E. end of Martha's Vineyard, is a lighthouse, which bears from the floating light W. £ N. 11 miles, and exhibits a fixed light at 55 ft. above the level of the sea.

Martha's Vineyard is now distinguished by three lighthouses, exclusive of that on Cape Poge, above mentioned ; the next, on a pier at the entrance of Edgartown Harbour, is 3£ miles W.S.W. from Cape Poge, and another is on the West chop of Holme's Hole, near the North point of the Vineyard.

Gay Head, the western extremity of Martha's Vineyard, is distinguished by a lighthouse, having a revolving light, at 150 ft. high above the sea; and this consti- tutes the great mark for the western entrance of the sound.

Upon the West end of Cuttahunk, which is the westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, dividing the Vineyard Sound from Buzzard's Bay, there is a fixed light. Upon Nashon, the fourth island from the West, of the same range, is another. The latter stands on the West side of an indent, called Tarpaulin Cove ; and from it, at the dis- tance of 5 miles to the East, is another, standing on Nobsque Point, Falmouth, at the end of the strait called Wood's Hole.

Between the West end of Nantucket and the East end of Martha's Vineyard lie the broken lands or isles called Tuckernuck, Muskeget, and Chappaquiddick, sur- rounded by shoals. To the westward of Muskeget is a swash of 2| fathoms, leading to Cape Poge, the N.E. extremity of Chappaquiddick ; and to the N.N.E. of Tucker- nuck is a spit of sand, extending 6 miles in that direction. Upon the extremity of the latter is stationed the floating light above mentioned, lying in 7 fathoms, with the Great Point light of Nantucket bearing E.S.E. 6 miles ; the light at the en- trance of Nantucket Harbour, S.S.E. 8 miles ; and the centre of Tuckernuck Island S.S.W. J W. 7 miles. This lightvessel is, therefore, exceedingly useful to vessels in the Sound, both from the eastward and westward. The lighthouse on Cape Poge bears from it nearly W. £ N. 4 leagues, and that of Gammon Point, or Hyannes Harbour, N. by W. J W. 4 leagues.

The different lights on Martha's Vineyard, excepting that of Gay Head, wee fixed lights. The lantern of Cape Poge is elevated 55 ft. above the sea, as above men- tioned, and its light can be seen over Vineyard land.

NANTUCKET. - The Island of Nantucket is situated between lat. 41" 14' and

MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 29

41" 24', and between long. 69° 58' and 70° 15'; its N.W. side forms a fine road for ships, -which from the eastward, and under favourable circumstances, may be readily attained.

The soil of Nantucket is light and sandy, but in some parts rich and productive. The inhabitants derive the greater part of their subsistence from the ocean ; they hold the land in common, and the greater part are of the Society of Friends. The men are generally robust, enterprising seamen, formerly extensively engaged in the whale fishery, and are as skilful and adventurous as any in the world.

The whale fishery commenced here in 1690 ; and this place is, perhaps, more cele- brated than any other, for the success and enterprise of its people in that species of nautical adventure, which was carried into every quarter of the globe. Indeed, Nantucket was the mother of that great branch of wealth in America.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Great or Sandy Point, the N..E point of Nantucket Island, a narrow spit running to the N.W., is a whitewashed stone tower 60 ft. high, showing a bright fixed light, elevated 70 ft., visible 14 miles off. A shoal, the Point Rip, stretches to the eastward for 3£ miles from the point, and has only 13 or 14 ft. on its outer end. There is good anchorage inside the Lighthouse Point.

SANKATY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, on the S.E. part of Nantucket, is a tower, 65 ft. high, painted white, red, white, showing a bright light, with a brighter flash of 10 seconds' duration in every minute. It is elevated 150 ft., and may be seen 20 miles off. It is 7 § miles S.S E. from Great Point lighthouse, and 23 miles S. by W. from the Pollock Rip lightvessel.

Tuckernuck Island lies inside the western spit of Nantucket Island, and is about 2 miles in length. Muskeget Island lies on the flat, 2 miles beyond it, and forms the eastern side of the Muskeget Channel, full of shoals.

MARTHA'S VINEYARD, the larger island to the westward of Nantucket, con- tains about the same number of inhabitants, who subsist by agriculture and fishing, Gay Head, the western part of this island, is a peninsula, separated from the other part by a large pond. Indications of ancient volcanoes exist here, and of those four or five craters are plainly to be seen. The principal harbours are that called Holme's Hole, on the North side, upon which is seated the town of Tisbury, and that of Edgar Town, or the Old Town, on the eastern side, West of Chappaquiddick Island.

This island is about 15 miles in length from East to West. Its greatest extent, North and South, is about 8 miles. It is divided into three townships - Edgar Toicn on the East, Chilmark on the West, and Tisbury in the centre. Edgar is the best seaport, and the shire town ; and Holme's Hole has water sufficient for large ships. The latter is much resorted to by vessels requiring a wind for proceeding eastward to Boston and other ports.

Martha's Vineyard, like Nantucket, was a great nursery of seamen, and supplies with pilots the numerous vessels with which this part of the United States abounds. Here are to be found the most expert pilots for the two sounds, and the ports in their vicinity. In stormy weather they are at sea, on the look-out for vessels, which they board with singular dexterity, and hardly eve rfail to bring safe to their in- tended harbour. Gay Head, the western point, distinguished by a lighthouse, is also remarkable for abounding with a variety of ochres, with which the inhabitants paint their houses. Hence the coast app«ars of different colours, as will be noticed hereafter.

Chappaquiddick Island, 5 miles westward of Muskeget, lies against the East end of Martha's Vineyard. Its N.E. point is Cape Poge, distinguished by a light- house, hereafter described.

The NANTUCKET SHOALS. - An area, bestrewed with some of the most dan-

30 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

gerous shoals in the world, lies to the south-eastward of Nantucket, and which, until late examinations and surveys by the officers of the U.S. coast survey, were very imperfectly known. But the charts now exhibit all that are formidable, and the following desciiptions have been taken from the same sources.

But it must be remembered that many of these shoals are so far from land that no marks can be given, beyond that afforded by the lightship on their South extremity. Unless, in case of necessity, no vessel should become entangled in this labyrinth, for the currents and tides are here most devious, the weather thick at times, and the more prominent shoals shown by tremendous breakers, while others are only to be distinguished by ripplings, more or less strong, according to the tide or current, or by a discoloration of the water.

NEW, or DAVIS'S SOUTH SHOAL, the southernmost of the Nantucket Shoals, lies about 20 miles south-eastward of Sankaty light, and is exceedingly dangerous, as close outside it is deep water. It has been surveyed by Commander Davis, who remarks upon it : - The New South Shoal has on it only 8 ft. in some places, and bears from the centre of the Old South Shoal from S. 3° 28' W. to S. 16° 42' E., by compass, being distant 6£ miles. It is 2J miles in length from East to West, and its greatest breadth from North to South is nine-tenths of a mile.

Between it and the Old South Shoal there are soundings of from 4 to 18 fathoms, but North and East of it are ridges of only 20 to 24 ft. to the extent of about 3 mile* from the New Shoals. Deep water separates these ridges, and the soundings on them are very irregular.

The tide rips showed that two, and perhaps three, lines of shoal water are near each other, in parallel directions. The latitude of the cen tre of the New Shoals is 40° 57' 50" N., long. 69° 51' 40" W., and it bears from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, S. £ E., 19J miles.

The tides set regularly round the compass, the main body of the flood running eastward, and the ebb westward, varying North and South of East and West ; but the flood begins to turn southward, passing round to the West, and ebb northward, passing round to the East, about 1£ hour before the principal set and strength are attained.

Upon the shoals the tides run across their line of direction, and are much more rapid, which makes an approach on the side to which the tide is setting very dan- gerous. The tide is never still ; at even slack water its velocity is seldom less than half a mile, and on the second quarter of the flood and ebb it sets at the rate of two knots.

From the New South Shoal a ridge of 5 5 to 9 fathoms extends 5 miles in a N.N.E. direction, and has immediately on its edge from 10 to 12 fathoms, deepening very rapidly to 20 and 25 fathoms. On it the sea breaks in bad weather. From the centre of this ridge, the centre of the New South Shoal bears W. by S. 4 miles, and the middle of the Old South Shoal, N. J W. 6 miles.

No part of Nantucket Island is visible from the New South Shoal ; but the re- volving light on Sankaty Head is distinctly visible when the weather is clear, and is a valuable mark to indicate its position.

New South Shoal Lightvessel, at about 2 miles southward of the shoal, is moored in 14 fathoms, and shows ivfojixed lights at 44 ft. above the sea, visible 12 miles off. It is schooner rigged, coloured red, and has the name " Nantucket South Shoal " on both sides. A foy bell and horn are provided for use in thick weather, and a gun is fired at intervals. A red can buoy is placed in 14 fathoms between the lightship and the shoal.

Old South Shoal. - This shoal lies northward of the New South Shoal, about 6£

XANTUCKET SHOALS. 31

miles, and has soundingss between of 1 1 to 12 and 17 fathoms, on an irregular bottom. It is situate in lat. 41" 5', and long. 69° 51', and its centre bearse S. by E. 12| miles from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head. It is about 2 miles in extent from N.E. by N. to S. W. by S., and about half a mile broad. The bottom consists of hard white sand( and the sea breaks over it in a tremendous manner, so that, at all times, it must be cautiously avoided, particularly as on some parts there are not more than 3 to 8 ft. -water, with 12 fathoms close-to.

The ground northward and north-eastward of the Old South Shoal is broken, dan- gerous, and marked by occasional strong tide rips. It is probable that there are not any dangers westward of it, as none were found in the examination that was made of the locality. The soundings now become more regular, and it is said that at 20 miles westward of the shoal the depths are 25 to 40 fathoms on black shining mud.

At about 4J miles N. J W. from the eastern end of the Old South Shoal, there is a small patch of 8 ft. water, having a depth of 6 fathoms close to it, which lies S.S.E. % E. 9 miles from Sankaty lighthouse ; and 2 miles north-eastward of this are two patches of 14 and 15 ft. lying 7| to 9 miles S.E. | S. from the same building. There are also some shoals of 8 to 14 ft. between these patches and the Bass Rip, but lying rather nearer to the latter, at the distance of 4 miles S.E. from the village of Sias- conset. As there may be other shoals yet undiscovered, it will be prudent when sailing among them to keep a good look-ont.

Small coasting vessels from the northward, steering along the shore of Nantucket( and taking the outside way, are advised to follow the East side of Bass Rip, and, passing over the tail of it in 4 fathoms, to haul round under the South side of the Old Man, which, being generally visible, it is best to keep in sight. Here there is a good beating channel of at least 2 miles in width, i.e., from half a mile to 2£ miles from the Old Man. Vessels making this course with an ebb (or westerly) tide, will clear the shoals in a few hours. They will also have more room, and be more favoured by the prevailing westerly winds than in Nantucket Sound.

Pochick Rip. - This is a rip immediately off the S.E. part of Nantucket Island. It commences at a short distance from Siasconset Village, and runs E.S.E. about 1 mile, where there is a patch of only 6 ft. at low water, between which patch and the island there are a few swatches of from 2J to 3 fathoms, and therefore deep enough for small vessels to pass. From the patch the Rip runs South 1J mile, where there is another swatch, half a mile wide, and 7 fathoms deep. There is a very shoal spot of 6 ft. at a quarter of a mile "W.S.W. from this channel, which shoal spot runs S.W. by W., one-quarter of a mile, and is succeeded by a swatch 220 yard wide, from which Tom Never's Head bears N.N.W., distant 3 miles. You then come to the East end of the Old Man.

Old Man. - This shoal runs in a "W.S.W. direction about 4 miles, and has from 8 feet to 3 fathoms upon it. In about the centre of the shoal there is a narrow passage of 3£ to 4 fathoms, through which boats may pass into the anchorage between the shoal and Tom Never's Head. On either side of this shoal are 7 to 8 and 12 fa- thoms. The East end of this shoal bears S. f E. from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, distant 3 miles ; and its VA'est end S.W. J S. from Tom Never's Head, distant 4£ miles.

The space between the Old Man and Pochick Rip and the shore contains excellent anchorage, which, with the wind at N.W., X.N.E., E.S.E., South, or S.S.XV., is considered to be better than any in Vineyard Sound, to vessels bound northward or eastward, particularly in the winter season, provided the cables and anchors are good. The depth is 5 fathoms, coarse sand, with Tom Never's Head bearing E.X.E. 5 X., and the southernmost land \V. by X. ; from this to the Old Man the soundings

32 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

are 5 to 14 fathoms, red sand, which will be about halfway between the two, and from this the depth decreases from 13 to 3 fathoms, fine sand, with black specks.

Bass Rip. - This shoal lies about 2J miles eastward of Siasconset Village, and is about 2£ miles long in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and has from 8 to 10 ft. water upon it, and in some places less. Close-to all round it are 5 to 7£ fathoms. Southward of the shoal there are various patches, of 8 to 14 ft., scattered about. The North end of Bass Rip bears E. by S. from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, distant 3 miles ; and its South end S. by E. J E. from the same object, distant 4 J miles.

New Shoal. - This is a small patch lying about 2 miles eastward of the Bass Rip, upon which there are only 10 to 14 ft. water, and 7£ fathoms close-to. From it San- katy Head bears W.N.W. £ W., distant 4£ miles, and Great Point light N.W. J N., lOf miles.

Northward of the Bass Rip and New Shoal, about 4 miles, there are several patches of 10 to 14 ft. water, situate about 3| miles from the shore, close to which is a depth of 4J fathoms. From the northernmost of these shoals Sankaty Head bears S.S.W. | W., distant 4£ miles, and Great Point light N.W. by W. £ W. 5$ miles.

M'Blair's Shoals. - These are a cluster of 9 to 18 ft. patches, lying in lat. 41° 24' N., and long. 69° 49' W. They have immediately around them 8 to 9 fathoms, and must be cautiously avoided by all vessels approaching Nantucket Island from the north-eastward. From their centre Great Point light bears W. £ N., distant 10J miles, and Sankaty Head S.W. £ W., nearly 10 miles.

These shoals can readily be perceived by the ripples upon them, caused by the tide, excepting during slack water, at which time there is, of course, no ripple ; but in daylight they exhibit the usual discoloration of water.

GREAT RIP. - This is a narrow shoal, lying about 10 miles to the eastward of Sankaty Head. Its northern extremity is about 4 miles to the southward of the M'Blair Shoals, in lat. 41° 21' and long. 69° 45', from whence it extends 13 miles to the S. J E. to lat. 41° 8' and long. 69° 42' 30". The soundings over it average 3| to 5 fathoms, but there is a part near its northern end where for a space of 4 miles there is a depth of not more than 10 to 17 ft., in the centre of which is a spot of 7 ft., named the Rose and Crown ; this spot is in lat. 41° 17', and long. 69° 43' 30". In lat. 41° 15' a small ship might cross the rip, as here for about a mile is a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms, but this depth is not continued, as it soon decreases in proceeding to the southward to 3* fathoms, with two shoal spots of 17 ft. At 4J miles from the southern end the rip has only 4 to 13 ft. on it, and there are many shallow spots of 9 to 17 ft. between this and the South extremity of the shoal, which might take up a vessel of heavy draught when attempting to cross it either from the eastward or westward. Upon the whole the rip has a very irregular shape, and as there are many shoal spots about it which may have a shifting character, and the soundings in its immediate vicinity are deep, a vessel should always avoid approaching too near.

DAVIS'S BANK. - This bank extends from lat. 41° 0' and long. 69° 39', in a N. J E. direction 4| miles, being here very narrow, and having a depth over it of 6 to 8 fathoms ; thence it runs to the N.N.E. £ E. 5J miles, and widens to about three- quarters of a mile, but the soundings on it decrease to 5 and 3£ fathoms. The bank then continues to the N.N.E. 5 miles, and increases in breadth as well as in depth, the soundings over this part being from 6 to 9 fathoms ; it thence runs some dis- tance farther northward with a gradually increasing depth, until it is finally lost in about lat. 41° 15', and long. 69° 33'. The bottom in this latter position is very uneven, there being many spots of 9 to 5 fathoms.

FISHING RIP - NANTUCKET HARBOUR. 33

Fourteen-feet Shoal. - Among the many shallows northward of Davis's Rank there is a small patch of 14 ft,, situate in lat. 41° 17J', and long. 69° 37£'. It has deep water of 12 and 13 fathoms close to it on each side.

Thirteen-feet Shoal. - This is a little patch 3 miles northward of the Fourteen-feet Shoal, having close around it a depth of 12 fathoms. Its position is lat. 41° 21' and long. 69° 37'.

FISHING RIP. - At about 10 miles westward from Davis's Bank is situate the Fishing Rip, a series of shallows of less than 10 fathoms, but none are sufficiently near the surface to take up a large vessel. They probably extend from lat. 41° 0' and long. 69° 27' to lat. 41° 7J° and long. 69^ 23', but thence northward are numerous small banks of less than 10 fathoms, so that it is difficult to define their exact limit. Almost close to the eastern side of these shallows are soundings of 22 and 18 fathoms, and the prevailing depth westward of them, or between them and Davis's Bank, is 15 to 16 fathoms.

Asia or Phelps Bank. - The foregoing are the chief features as explored by the U.S. Coast Survey, but subsequent to that the steam-ship Asia got soundings in 11 fathoms, gray sand, in lat. 40° 46J', long. 69° 24£' W., or about 13 miles S. £ E. from the South end of the Fishing Rip. A farther examination of this, by Lieut. Phelps, U.S.N., has shown that this bank, with similar depths, extends for 6J miles to N.N.E., and is 2 miles broad. It is shown upon the chart.

NANTUCKET HARBOUR, on the North side of the island, has a depth of from 7 to 14 ft. water up to the wharves, but at times the entrance has not more than 4 or 4£ ft. at low water on the bars. It is high water on full and change at 12h 24m ; springs rise 3 ft. 7 inches, neaps 2 ft. 6 inches.

Lights. - On Brant Point, on the West side of the entrance, stands a red light- house 42 ft. high, showing a bright fixed light at 46 ft. ; visible 11 miles off.

A small fixed light, termed the Old Bog light, is shown from the window of a small wooden house on the South side of the harbour, 1 mile S.E. from Brant Point light, in line with which it clears the Black Flat, leaving that shoal to starboard in entering.

The Cliff Beacons are two small red and bright fixed lights, 100 yards apart, N.X.E. J E. and S.S.W. J W., on two small pyramidal wooden structures, rather more than half a mile N.W. by W. \ W. from Brant Point lighthouse. They are visible 7 miles off.

To enter the harbour, bring the Cliff Beacon lights in line, and run for them, passing near the bell buoy in 3 fathoms. Passing Brant Point within 100 fathoms, steer S.W. for the anchorage in from 2 to 3 fathoms, soft bottom.

The following directions cannot be depended on, as the bar and channels are con- stantly shifting, and the beacons and buoys are shifted occasionally to suit the altered conditions. It is at all times advisable to take a pilot.

The Western Cluinnel is the best, and its fairway is marked by a buoy boat in 3 fathoms. Within this buoy the bar is marked by two buoys, the inner one red, No. 2. There are three more buoys on the Flat within, Nos. 3, 4, 5 ; No. 6 is the Cliff buoy, and the Flat within this is marked by two more buoys.

Having entered Nantucket Sound by Butler's Hole, and when up with the Hand- kerchief lightvessel, steer S S.W. towards the harbour, leaving Great Point light 1 or 1J mile distant on the port hand. Entering by the Main Ship Channel, proceed till Great Point light comes to the eastward of South, then follow a S.S.W. course. Or, if from the westward, from Cross Rip lightship, steer E.S.E., and as soon as Great Point lighthouse bears S.E. | E., distant about 5 miles, haul up S. £ E. for the U.S. - Part I. F

34 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

harbour's entrance, leaving the red buoy on the N.E. extremity of Tuckernuck Shoal 1£ mile westward of you.

A vessel that is to be carried over the bars on the camel will, after passing Great Point light, or Tuckernuck Shoal, run for the town on a S.S.W. or S.S.E. course, and anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms water, with Brant light bearing S. by E. or S A E

*J. g -- -*-

A vessel of small draught that can pass the channel will run for the buoy-boat off Nantucket Cliff, which is distinguishable by its mast, and anchor near it in 3 or 4 fathoms water, the square tower of a church showing through a gap in the cliff. The Western or Best Channel is marked by eight buoys.

From the inner or No. 8 black buoy continue on the same course a quarter of a mile, then steer S.E. f S. about one-third of a mile, until opening Brant Point enough to haul up S.S.W. £ W. into the harbour.

Middle Channel. - Find buoy No. 9, by bringing the two small Bugs into range, and run from that in a S.W. £ S. course to buoy No. 10. From buoy No. 10 steer S. by E. i E. to buoy No. 6 (or Cliff Buoy), and follow in by the Western Channel as before.

Eastern Channel. - Find the outer buoy of the Middle Channel as before, when the Old Bug will appear a handspike's length to the westward of Brant light ; steer in, keeping on this range, which leads into the Western Channel at Buoy No. 7 (or outer black flat).

There is a small shoal to the northward of Brant Point, which will be avoided by shutting in Old Bug light on a house nearly in range to the northward. The best anchorage is near the wharves.

There is a channel eastward of this Eastern Channel, in which a vessel will have a depth of not less than 5 ft. at low water on the bar. Commander Caldwell says, " In coming in, bring Brant Point light to bear South, and run for it, until the two lights (one red and the other white) are in range. Run in on this range until the beacon light at the head of the harbour is nearly in range, but open a little eastward of Brant Point light ; then run in on this range, gradually opening the beacon more to the eastward until it shuts in behind the farmhouse ; then run southward into the harbour."

In proceeding to sea from Nantucket Harbour, the course from the bar towards the N.E. or Great Point lighthouse will be nearly N.N.E. With the tide setting west- ward, run for the lighthouse, and pass the point at the distance of about 2 miles, leaving Great Point Rip on the starboard side. Be cautious that a tide setting east- ward does not drive you on the Rip. Keep the town of Nantucket open to the west- ward of the lighthouse on the Great Point, until you are 3 miles to the N.N.E. of that point, when you will be in fair ship channel for proceeding either eastward or westward. An E. by S. course will thence carry you to sea, to the southward of the Great Round Shoal, the black buoy on which will be passed at a good distance. With a light wind and southerly tide, there will be a risk of being set too near the Great Point Rip, or on to M'Blair's Shoals ; it will therefore be necessary to keep a good lookout for the red buoy on the end of the former, and when you are to the eastward of it, to keep Great Point lighthouse bearing southward of West. As soon as Sankaty Head light bears S.W. £ W. you will be clear of all danger, and may steer to the northward or eastward as desirable.

Muskeget Channel, the passage into Nantucket Sound from the southward, be- tween Nantucket Island and Martha's Vineyard, is mainly occupied by extensive shoals, so much so that the principal navigable passage, which runs along the western side, and parallel to the eastern shore of Martha's Vineyard, is but 3£ cables wide in

EDGARTOWN. 35

its southern part. This passage should not be attempted at night, and at all times careful attention should be paid to the lead and the set of the currents. Intending to leave Nantucket Sound by this channel, and having followed the directions already given till abreast of Cape Poge lighthouse, steer so as to pass about a mile north- ward and eastward of it, bringing it in range with Edgailown spire, then shape a course S. £ W., steering parallel to, and at the distance of a mile from the shore, leaving the red buoy on the S.W. end of Hawes' Shoal on the port, and the black buoy on Tom Shoal on the starboard hand. Continue this course for 6 miles, when you will find the water suddenly deepen to about 17 fathoms, and the red buoy on Mutton Shoal ahead of you, distant half a mile, with the church on Sampson's Hill, at the same time bearing N.W. J N. Steer from this position S.W. £ S. to pass be- tween Skiffs Island and Mutton Shoal, leaving the red buoy on the latter on the port hand. Keep this course 1 mile, when Wasque Bluff, the S.W. end of Martha's Vine- yard, will bear N. by W., and then you may follow any direction between South and S.S.W., and pass out clear of all danger.

Cape Poge Lighthouse stands, as before stated, on the N.E. extreme of Cuap- paquiddick Island, and on the eastern side of the entrance to Edgartown Harbour. It is a white tower, 35 ft. high, showing a fixed light at 5o ft., visible 13 miles off.

EDGARTOWN. - The harbour of Edgartown, which is 2 leagues to the south- eastward of Holmes's Hole, is the best harbour of Martha's Vineyard. It is a port of entry. The harbour is formed by the eastern part of Martha's Vineyard and the western part of the Isle Chappaquiddick, therefore to the West of Cape Poge light- house, and is bounded by shoals on each side. The tide runs in strongly, but there is excellent anchorage. The town is situate on the western side, up the harbour.

A pier has been erected at the entrance of the harbour, and a lighthouse placed thereon, which was first lighted on the 15th October, 1828. The light is fixed, and 50 ft. above the sea.

Having followed the directions for Nantucket Sound till off Cape Poge, and coming from the westward, pass to the northward of the outer buoy (red], and if from the eastward, give Cape Poge a berth of half a mile. Steer then S. by W. or S.S.W., keeping in not less than 4 fathoms, soft and sticky bottom, until up with the middle buoy (red), whence you steer S.S.W. towards the lighthouse. Give the buoy off the lighthouse a small berth on the starboard hand, and enter in mid- channel. If in- tending to anchor above the first wharf, keep near the wharves to avoid the shoal off the inner point of Chappaquiddick. In the night, after passing the outer buoy, or Cape Poge, make use of the lead, and tack when the bottom changes from soft to hard, especially on the western side, where the water shoals suddenly from 5 fathoms to 12 feet. After Cape Poge bears E. by S., the course changes from S. by W. to S.S.W., and in sailing up you must observe the before-mentioned precautions as to making use of the lead. There is good anchorage off the town in from 3£ to 4 fathoms.

If intending to anchor in the outer harbour, follow the above directions until the harbour light bears W. by S., and Cape Poge light about N.E. by E. J E., when you may anchor in 4£ or 5 fathoms water, good holding ground. When anchoring, be careful, as the bank on either side is steep-to.

Holmes's Hole, on the North side of Martha's Vineyard, is also a place of retreat for vessels during the winter. On the West chop of Holmes's Hole, on the starboard hand as you enter, is a lighthouse, showing a. fixed light at 60 ft.

If from the eastward, follow the directions for Nantucket Sound, and when abreast East Chop haul to the southward. When coming in from the westward, bring the East Chop well open with the West Chop lighthouse, and it will lead you clear of

36 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

the Middle Ground. Give the West Chop a berth of half a mile, until you are past the buoy marking the rocks off that chop. You can beat in by the lead with perfect safety, the shores being tolerably bold and clear. You can anchor in 3 fathoms, mud, -with the West Chop light just open of the woods on Low Point, Small vessels may anchor farther in, and immediately off the town. If you make the light on the West Chop in the night, bearing S.E., you will be clear of the Middle Ground, and may steer for the East side of it till you get into 4 or 3 fathoms on the flat near the chop, and then steer S.E. by E., taking care not to approach the land nearer than in 3 fathoms ; but if, in running S.E. by E., the water should deepen to 6 or 7 fathoms, haul up S. by W. or S.S.W. to 4 or 3 fathoms, as above directed.

NANTUCKET SOUND, North Side. - The harbours described are on the islands which shelter the Sound on the southward. The following are on the South shore of the Cape Cod Peninsula, commencing from the eastward.

The Powder Hole, on the S.W. side of Monomoy Island, has been before noticed.

To proceed to this place, steer W. J N. from Pollock Rip lightvessel up to the Shovelful lightship and the black buoy on the S.W. end of the Shovelful Shoal, leaving in your course a black and white buoy on your starboard, and a red buoy on your port hand. From the Shovelful lightvessel haul up on a N. £ W. course through the narrow but deep channel between the Shovelful and Handkerchief Shoals, leaving the red buoy on the edge of the latter on your western side, and as the former shoal is very shallow and steep-to, it will be necessary not to deviate much from this course, and to tack at the first shoal cast (under 4 fathoms) of the lead. When Monomoy lighthouse bears East, steer N.E. till it bears S.E. by E. | E., then steer for the lighthouse, and when past Monomoy Point, which should have a berth of 50 yards, haul in to the southward, and anchor close inside the point in 2| fathoms, to avoid the flats to the eastward.

Old Stage Harbour lies in the extreme N.E. corner of Nantucket Sound, and is formed by the extensive flats which project from the eastern and northern shores, -which make a kind of basin with an entrance above a mile in width, and open to the south-westward, the eastern and western sides of which aie marked by two buoys, the red to be left to starboard and the black to port when entering. Anchorage may be had in this harbour in about 4 fathoms water, good holding ground, but exposed to all winds from the southward and westward.

Bass River, on the northern shore of Nantucket Sound, will itself only admit very small craft. Before its mouth is a well-sheltered roadstead in 15 and 16 ft., except against southerly gales, which bring in a heavy sea, rendering the anchorage insecure. Here there is a small breakwater, behind which vessels anchor in 6 or 8 feet at low water. Those of light draught may run up close under the breakwater to the eastward of it. A fixed light is shown from a white tower on the keeper's dwelling, situated a mile eastward of the river's entrance, at the height of 40 ft. above the sea, which is visible in clear weather at from 8 to 10 miles off. Vessels approaching from the westward, should bring the light to bear N. by E. to clear the East end of the breakwater, and those approaching from the eastward should bring the light to bear N.W. before running in for the anchorage.

HYANNIS. - This port is 5 miles westward of Bass River, and is rendered of more importance by its breakwater. It forms a portion of Barnstaple township.

Point Gammon, on the eastern side of Hyannis Harbour, is distinguished by a lighthouse of stone, painted white } the light, called the Bug light, is fixed, brilliant, ar.d 36 ft. above the sea.

In the fairway, up to and within the small breakwater, there are from 15 to 18 ft. water, and at the head of the landing wharf from 4 to 6 feet. The deep-water

HYANNIS. 37

space for anchoring inside the breakwater is, however, very confined, being not more than half a mile in extent, the shallow flats from both shores, especially the Point Gammon side, encroaching upon it and thus limiting its area. High water here, on full and change days, at 12h 22m. Springs rise 3 ft. 10 inches ; neaps, 1 foot 9 inches.

The dangers in the way of vessels entering Hyannis Harbour are : - the Bishop and Clerks, now distinguished by a granite tower on their northern part, serving as a lighthouse, showing a revolving light, with a bright flash every half minute, which bears S. by E. nearly 2£ miles from Point Gammon. By giving this lighthouse a berth of a quarter of a mile on the East, North, and West sides, and of 1 mile on the South side, vessels will pass clear of the rocks in not less than 14 ft. A buoy, painted in red and black horizontal stripes, is placed upon a detached rock, which has only 9 ft. water over it, and lies 1~ mile S. J E. from Point Gammon. The Senator Shoal and Gazelle Hock, which lie off the southern side of Point Gammon, and are both marked by buoys, that on the former lying nearly a mile in a south-easterly direction from the point, the other inside it and nearer the point; both buoys should have a good berth on your northern side. The Middle Ground, which is about a mile in extent from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., has 15 to 18 ft. water on it, excepting on its eastern end, where there is a spot of 12 ft., which lies W. by N. 1| mile from the lighthouse on the Bishop and Clerks ; this spot is marked by a striped buoy. The S. W. Ground, a flat of from 7 to 10 ft. water, running off 1| mile southward from the West side of the harbour, with several rocks upon it, the outermost group of which, named Gallatin, lies W. | S. from the buoy on the S.E. corner of the ground, and N.W. by W. £ W. from the Gangway buoy. The Gangway Hock, a patch of 10 feet, is situated on the W.S.W. Ledge, outside the S.W. Ground ; the buoy on it bears W. by S. | S. from Point Gammon, and N.W. by W. | W. from Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. The Great Rock, above water, lies on the eastern side of the passage into the harbour, S. | W. 1| mile from the Bug light. And the Half-tide Mock, lies S.E. 3 E. a quarter of a mile from the Great Rock, and N.W. £ W. from Point Gammon.

Bound to Hyannis from the eastward, follow the directions given on page 39 for vessels sailing through the North channel of Nantucket Sound, till abreast of Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. Or, from the Handkerchief lightvessel, steer N.W. towards the said lighthouse, and give it a berth on your port hand of half a mile or more. Or, if from the southward and eastward, and in a position off Great Point, with its lighthouse bearing South, distant about 3 miles, steer N.W. by N. towards the Bishop and Clerks, and round them at the same distance.

To sail through the North Channel, or that between the Bishop and Clerks and the Senator Shoal, having proceeded on either of the two latter courses, till the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse bears W. by N. about three-quarters of a mile distant, steer N.W. J W. about 3 miles, until Point Gammon bears E. by N. J N., and the Bug light is in one with the West spire of Hyannis ; here the East end of the break- water will be in one with the second small windmill of the salt-works westward of the Bug light, and on with the end of the wharf, bearing N. £ E. Run in with this latter mark on (N. f E.) about 1| mile, double close round the East end of the break- water, run N.N.W., a cable's length or so, and anchor in 16 ft. water on a muddy bottom.

If bound into Hyannis by the Middle Channel (the one between the Bishop and Clerks and the Middle Ground), pass at least one mile to the southward of the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse, leaving the buoy en the South extreme of the reef on the btavboard hand, and bring Point Gammon to bear N. by E. ; run in on that

38 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

course until the lighthouse on the Bishop and Clerks bear E. J S., distant nearly 1 mile, when you steer N.N.W. 2 miles, leaving the striped buoy on the Middle Ground half a mile to port, until Point Gammon bears E. by N. | N., distant 1^ mile ; you now proceed as before.

If bound in by the West Channel (the one between the Middle Ground and the W.S.W. Ledge), proceed from Vineyard Sound up to Succonesset lightvessel by re- versing the directions on page 39, and from that lightship steer E. by N. | N., and when Point Gammon bears N.E. by E., distant 2§ or 3 miles, run on that course, leaving the Gangway buoy three-fifths of a mile to the northward and westward, until the Bug light is just open to the westward of the West spire, and the East end of the breakwater is on with the second windmill westward of the Bug light, when you may run N. £ E., as before.

DIRECTIONS for Nantucket Sound. - BUTLER'S HOLE. - If intending to enter Nantucket Sound through Butler's Hole, coming from the eastward, and when about 2 miles East of Chatham lights, bring Pollock Kip lightvessel to bear S. by W. ^ W. and steer for it, leaving the black buoy on Pollock Rip on the starboard hand. When up with the lightship, steer West till Monomoy lighthouse bears North ; in this course your sounding will not be less than 17 or 18 ft., these depths being found passing over the northern prolongation of the Broken Rips or Stone Horse Shoal, the extremity of which is marked by a red buoy, which you will leave a little on the starboard hand. Steer now S.W. by W. for the Handkerchief lightvessel, leaving another red buoy about three-quarters of a mile distant on your port side. To ensure a greater depth of water, when up with Pollock Rip lightvessel, steer W. by N. for 2J miles, or till Monomoy lighthouse bears N.N.W., then proceed on a S.W. 5 W. bearing for the Handkerchief lightship ; on these latter courses you will leave both the foregoing red buoys on the port hand. Although the prominent parts of the Pollock, Shovelful, and Handkerchief Shoals, which form the northern side of Butler's Hole, are marked by black buoys, and those of the Broken Rip or Stone Horse, form- ing the southern side, by red ones, yet too great a freedom should not be taken with these directions in tacking towards either side of the channel, because the lead gives but a very indifferent warning of an approach to the shoals.

From Handkerchief lightvessel to Cioss Rip lightvessel the course is first W. | S. 8 miles, and then W. by N. | N, nearly 3 miles, passing the latter vessel on its southern side, between it and the red buoy on the North end of Cross Rip. Here the channel is but 300 fathoms in width.

Main Ship Channel. - To enter Nantucket Sound by this channel, keep at the distance of about 4 miles from off Chatham lights, and bring them to bear W.N.W., then steer South for 13 miles, passing 7 miles eastward of Monomoy lighthouse, 4 miles eastward of Pollock Rip lightship, and 2± miles eastward of the buoy on the outer end of the broken part of Pollock Rip. If this course be made good, then Sankaty Head light will be seen (in clear weather) bearing S.W. 3 W., and if Great Point light be not brought northward of West you will clear the M'BIair Shoals. Therefore, as soon as Sankaty light bears S.W. i W. distant about 12 miles, haul up W. by N., steering in between M'BIair Shoals on the southern and the Groat Round Shoals on the northern side, passing the red buoy on the extremity of Great Point Rip, a shoal extending 3£ miles E.N.E. from Great Point lighthouse, and also the red buoy on the N.E. end of Tuckernuck Shoal, on the port hand ; and the black buoy on the Great Round Shoals on the starboard, giving it a berth of not less than 1 or l\ mile. If this course (W. by N.) be followed, when abreast the Tuckernuck buoy, Cross Rip lightvessel will be seen beating about W.N.W. ; steer for it, and leave it almost close-to on your starboard hand, as before directed.

VINEYARD SOUND. 39

From the Cross Rip lightship steer W. by N. A N. 10 miles, which will bring you up to between the red buoys on the East and West extremities of Squash Meadow, and the striped buoy on the East of the Hedge Fence Shoal. Shape a course now for Nobska Point light, steering N.W. by W., and give the Squash Meadow buoys, the East Chop and the West Chop lighthouse a berth of at least half a mile on your port hand. This offing, however, should not be increased to more than 1 or If mile for fear of running on the Hedge Fence, which is long, narrow, and steep-to, with only 4 or 5 ft. on its shoalest part. Its extreme points are distinguished by striped buoys. When about 1 mile S.E. by E. from Nobska light, follow the directions hereafter given for Vineyard Sound.

North Channel of Nantucket Sound. - Follow the directions already given up to Pollock Rip lightvessel. From the lightship steer W. | N. up to Shovelful lightvessel, passing the red buoy on the North extreme of the Stone Horse or Broken Rip, close on the port hand, and the black buoy on the South end of the Shovelful on the starboard. From Shovelful lightvessel haul up to the N. % W., and continue so till Monomoy lighthouse bears East, remembering only that the edges of the Shovelful and Handkerchief Banks, which form the East and West boundaries of this channel, are but 3£ cables' lengths apart, and that in tacking towards them by the lead, you will suddenly shoalen your water from 5 and 4 fathoms to 10 and 6 feet, or even less. When Monomoy light bears East, a N.W. by W. course will clear the North end of the Handkerchief, the red buoy on the edge of which must be left to port ; by following this direction for 6 miles, Bass River light will be seen bearing North, distant 3| miles.

Or, the N. J W. course from Shovelful lightvessel may be continued till Monomoy lighthouse bears S.E. £ E., to a black and white striped buoy ; then steer N.W. 5 W. for about 2 miles, leaving the buoys on the shoal to the northward on the starboard side, and afterwards W. by N. up to where Bass River light bears North, distant 3J miles. Proceed then on a W. £ N. course, leaving the buoys on the Senator Shoal and Gazelle Rock, which extend southward from Point Gammon, the eastern side of entrance to Hyannis, on the northern side, and the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse between half and three-quarters of a mile to the southward of you. When this latter lighthouse bears E. by S. | S., and the Bug light at Hyannis N.E. by N. \ N., at which time the eastern or New Spire at Hyannis will be on, or nearly so, with the middle of the breakwater, put the vessel's head W. by S. £ S., which will carry you between the red buoys on the Middle Ground, the North end of the Horse Shoe, and the Eldridge Shoals, on the port hand, and the black ones on the W.S.W. Ledge and Wreck Shoal, on the starboard side, up to Succonesset lightvessel. You will know when you are off the northern end of the Horse Shoe by your water deepening to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms. In turning to windward hereabout do not ap- proach the Horse Shoe nearer than into a depth of 10 fathoms, nor the shore than into 3£ fathoms. Pass close round the South side of this lightship, and steer W. | N., leaving the buoys on the Succonesset Shoal to the northward, and those on Loose Shoal and L'Homme de Dieu to the southward, and as soon as Nobska light bears West steer for it, giving the buoy on the West end of L'Homme de Dieu Shoal a berth of 500 yards on the port hand, and Nobska Point a berth of three-quarters of a mile on the starboard. Hence through Vineyard Sound, see directions subsequently given for that channel.

For vessels sailing from Vineyard Sound through Nantucket Sound to the eastward, there will be no difficulty in reversing the foregoing directions. But in all cases a pilot is to be considered a necessary guide.

VINEYAKD SOUND. - Gay Head, the westernmost point of Martha's Vineyard,

40 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

in lat, 40° 20J', long. 70° 49J', is distinguished by a lighthouse, already noticed. The land of this head is high, and of various colours, appearing red, yellow, and white, in streaks, not unlike the cliffs in Alum Bay, in the Isle of Wight. It forms the South side of the entrance into Vineyard Sound, the North side of which is formed by the Elizabeth Isles. At the western extremity of the latter is the ledge of rocks called the Sow and Pigs, which is very dangerous, but on which a lighthouse is con- structing.

The Elizabeth Isles, six in number, and famous for their excellent dairies, form the natural division between Vineyard Sound and Buzzard's Bay. The principal isles of the group are Naushon, Pasqui, Nashawina, Pune or Penequese, and Cuttehuuk. On the S.E. side of Naushon, upon the S.W. side of a cove called Tarpaulin Cove, is the lighthouse, vfith fixed light.

At nearly 2 leagues to the southward of Gay Head is an islet called Neman's Land, -which serves as a beacon to those approaching the western part of Martha's Vineyard. There is a passage between it and the latter, but it is impeded by a dangerous ledge of rocks, called the Old Man, lying nearly in mid-channel, with Gay Head lighthouse N. | W. 4 miles distant.

The Sow and Figs, a ledge of rocks, some above and some under water, bear N.W. by W. 2| leagues from Gay Head, and extend If miles from Cuttehunk, the westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, distinguished by the lighthouse. The first of the flood sets strongly over them to the northward, into Buzzard's Bay, the ground of -which is very foul. A lighthouse is (or was) being erected on the ledge.

The rocks, resting on an irregular reef of hard stones and pebbles, stretch three- quarters of a mile W. by S., then 820 yards to S.S.W., then a quarter of a mile to S.W. by S., the general direction being S.W. by W. ^ W. 1J mile from the West point of Cuttehunk Island.

Cuttehunk Lighthouse is white, and stands on the S.W. point of Cuttehunk or Cuttyhunk Island. It shows a bright fixed light, elevated 42 ft., visible 12 miles off. The Ribbon Reef, of 15 ft. water, lies 1£ mile N.W. from the light, and is marked by a striped buoy.

Vineyard Sound Lightvessel is moored in 13J fathoms off the S.W. end of Sow and Pigs Iteef, with Cuttyhunk lighthouse bearing N.E. by E. £ E. 2± miles, and Gay Head S.E. by E. £ E., 7£ miles. The hull of the vessel is painted red, with a yellow streak, and has the name on each side. There are two fixed lights exhibited from the mast-heads, one 34 and the other 23 ft. above the sea, each visible at from 9 to 11 miles. In the daytime one red ball is hoisted at each mast-head, and a bell rung and a horn sounded every alternate five minutes in foggy weather.

GAY HEAD Lighthouse is a reddish brick tower, 41 ft. high, showing a bright Jlashing light every 10 seconds at 170 ft., and visible at 20 miles off. Since May, 1874, every fourth flash is to be coloured red. The cliff over which it stands, 130 feet in height, is conspicuous and peculiar from the different colours of its stratified rocks.

The Devil's Bridge, a dangerous shoal, stretches off from this cliffy point for half a mile to the N.W., and its extremity is marked by a red buoy. Its outer edge is steep- to, and it requires all care in rounding it. A rocky shoal lies 1 J mile N.W. from Gay Head lighthouse.

Menemsha Bight, immediately north-eastward of Gay Head, affords good an- chorage in from 5 to 9 fathoms, about 2J miles eastward of the lighthouse, with the wind from East, round by South, to S.W., but being much exposed to the influence of northerly winds, it should be resorted to only in the summer, or at other times from necessity. There is no danger in the bight, except the flat lining the shore, which

VINEYARD SOUND. 41

may be avoided by giving the land a berth of half a mile, or by not going into less than o fathoms.

In the upper part of Vineyard Sound the chief dangers are the Middle Ground and its continuation, Lucas Shoal.

The Middle Ground, the eastern end of which lies N.W. from the lighthouse on the West Chop of Holmes' Holes, at a quarter of a mile from the nearest shore, leaving a narrow channel between, extends E. by N. and W. by S. 4| miles, and has several swatchways through it. The East end, now distinguished by a striped buoy, has only from 5 and 6 to 10 ft. over it, and may be avoided by keeping the East Chop open North of the West Chop. About a mile from the eastern end of the bank there are but 2 ft., and on its West end only 14 ; here there is also a striped buoy, lying above a mile from the nearest part of Martha's Vineyard. Both sides are very steep, and should be cautiously approached, 9 or 10 fathoms being sufficiently near on the northern side.

Lucas Shoal may almost be considered as part of the Middle Ground, being separated from it only by a continuous line of soundings varying from 4 to 5 fathoms. It is small, steep-to, has only 14 ft. over it, and on its western side is marked by a striped buoy, which bears about S. £ E., 2£ miles from Tarpaulin lighthouse, S.W. by W. a similar distance from the striped buoy on the West end of the Middle Ground, and 1| mile off the nearest part of the shore of Martha's Vineyard, with from 5 to 18 fathoms between. There is a small isolated patch of 18 ft. 1£ mile S.W. by W. | W. from Lucas Shoal, with 5 and 7 fathoms between.

On running from the Gay Head light into Vineyard Sound, if requisite to make a harbour on the North side, bring Gay Head light to bear S.W., and run N.E. 3 leagues, which will carry you up to Tarpaulin Cove light, where you may anchor in from 18 to 4 fathoms ; in the deepest water is fine sand, with the light bearing from W. by N. to S.W. On entering the Sound with a southerly wind, the South channel is, of course, the best.

On advancing from the sea, you may run for Gay Head light, when it bears from N.X.E. to E.S.E., giving it a berth of 2 miles, in order to clear the Devil's Bridge, which trends from the light N.W. by N. more than half a mile distant. As measur- ing the distance in the night may be uncertain, you must keep the lead going, and if 7 or 8 fathoms should be found when the light bears S.E. by E. or S.E., haul up to the northward until you have gained 10 or 12 fathoms; then, with flood, steer N.E. ; and with ebb, N.E. by E. nearly 3 leagues ; E.N.E. will thence be the course of the sound, to the northward of the Middle Ground, a bank on which the shoalest water towards the eastward is 2 ft. When the lighthouse on the West Chop of Holmes's Hole is in sight, run for it, keeping 1 mile distant from the shore until you have the East chop 1 cable's length open. With a flood tide steer directly for it ; and with ebb, keep it one point open, till you open a windmill on the West side of the harbour, about 1 cable's length ; now run up in the middle of the river till you come to 4 or 3 fathoms, where you may anchor on good ground. The usual anchor- ing mark is the West chop, bearing from N.N.W. to N.W. by N. ; but, for those who may remain any time, the best anchoring is well up the harbour, close to the shore, mooring S.E. and N.W. in 4 or 5 fathoms. In this harbour, which is about 2 miles deep, a vessel is secured from every wind, except a northerly one.

In the night, on approaching the Sound with a strong north-westerly wind, haul

to the northward until you find smooth water under the Elizabeth Islands, where

you may anchor in from 14 to 10 fathoms. Should the wind be to the southward, it

will be best to run down through the South channel or Vineyard side. When Gay

U. S. - Part L G

42 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Head bears S.S.E. the course wiH be N.E. by E. | E. or E.N.E., observing not to approach the land nearer than into 7 fathoms, until abreast of Lumber? s Cove, in which is good anchorage with southerly and easterly winds. This place may be known by a high sand-bank, called Neciinkey Cliff, on its eastern side. In the middle of the cove you may come-to, in from 5 to 3 fathoms, sandy bottom, which is the best ground. The Middle Ground lies about 2 miles without the cove, and has in this part 12 ft. over it.

//, when opposite Necunkey Point, you intend to run for Holmes's Hole, the course will be E. by X., keeping near the land, so as to clear the Middle Ground. You may track the shore by the lead, in from 7 to 4 fathoms, till you come near the lighthouse ; but approach no nearer than 3 fathoms, and you may track around the chop, in the same manner as when running down from the North side of the Middle Ground. There is good anchorage alongshore in 6 or 4 fathoms, after passing to the eastward of Necunkey Point, till you come near the West chop.

Quick's Hole, the passage from Vineyard Sound into Buzzard's Bay between Pasque and Nashawena Islands, is but three-quarters of a mile wide, though from 4 to 8 fathoms deep in the fairway. Its eastern entrance is N. £ E., 5 miles from Gay Head lighthouse, and distinguished by a black buoy on the southern and a red buoy on the northern side. Steer in midway between these buoys N.W. by N. till halfway through the Hole, then North into Buzzard's Bay, keeping as nearly as possible the middle of the channel throughout, or, if obliged to deviate at all, approach near the western rather than the eastern shore, following somewhat the bend of that coast. Half a mile northward of the western entrance there is a small and steep rocky patch of 3J ft., marked by a striped buoy, to which a berth should be given on either hand.

Tarpaulin Cove is on the middle of the S.E. side of Naushon Island, and offers good shelter and anchorage ; you may ride out a gale with good ground tackle.

Light. - A white tower, 32 ft. high, on the West side of the entrance, shows a bright/fceeti light, with a flash every half minute, at 80 ft., visible 13 miles off.

The soundings in the cove are from lo to 18 ft., deepening immediately outside to 8 and 10 fathoms, but there are some rocks lying nearly 1£ cable's length from the shores of the cov« which must be avoided. Near the lighthouse there is a rock of 7 feet, marked by a black buoy, to be left to port on entering. This cove is exposed to all winds between East and E.S.E. Vessels when at anchor here should moor in 5J fathoms, with Gay Head light just open with the lighthouse point.

High water, on full and change days, at 81' 4ra ; springs range 2J, neaps If ft.

NOBSQTJE LIGHTHOUSE. - The lighthouse on Nobsque Point, westward of the town of Falmouth, tends to facilitate, in a material degree, the navigation of the Vineyard Sound, both to the eastward and westward. The light is fixed, and was first exhibited on the 10th of November, 1828. It is elevated 83 ft. above the sea, and is shown from the keeper's house, which stands near the eastern extremity of the passage called Wood's Hole. In running through Vineyard Sound from the west- ward, to pass through the main ship channel bring Nobsque light to bear N.W. $ W., then run S.E. £ E., until West Chop light bears W. by N. $ N. In passing through the North Channel when Nobsque light bears N.W. A W., and Tarpaulin Cove light "W. £- S., steer N.K. i E. until Nobsque light bears West, then steer E. ^ S. for the Succonnesset Shoal lightvessel.

The tide hereabout, on the full and change days, flows at 9h. In the channel, be- tween Elizabeth Isles and Martha's Vineyard, the flood, however, runs until elevni .-/clook.

BUZZARD'S BAY. 43

BUZZARD'S BAY extends to the N.E. for 22 miles, being separated from Vine- yard Sound by the line of islands before mentioned, of which Cutty hunk with its lighthouse is the south-westernmost.

There are some detached shoals and dangers in the bay, and also many projecting spits from its numerous points, and the most prominent of these are marked by buoys or beacons, but it requires the utmost caution for its safe navigation, which should not be attempted by a stranger without a pilot.

The entrance to the bay is between the Cuttyhunk lighthouse and the Sow and Pigs Reef and lightvessel on the South side, and the Hen and Chickens Reef with its lightvessel on the North, the soundings between being- very irregular, from 5 to to fathoms, hard bottom.

The Hen and Chickens and Lightvessel. - The Hen and Chickens is a dan- gerous reef, extending S. by E., IJ mile from Gooseberry Neck. On the outermost rock, called the Old Cock, is a spindle. The lightvessel, painted lead colour, is moored in 10 fathoms water, about a mile S.E. of the reef, with the spindle bearing N.W. by N. She shows a fixed bright light, elevated. 35 ft., visible 11 miles off, and has a fog bell and horn for use in thick weather.

Mishaun Point is to the N.E. of Gooseberry Neck, and, like it, has reefs projecting a considerable distance. On the opposite side of the bay is Penikese Inland, between which and Cuttyhunk is a deep-water and safe channel to those well acquainted, but embarrassed by shoals.

Dumpling Light - Off Round Hill, S.S.W. of Clark's Point light and New Bed- ford, is a white lighthouse with black lantern, on Dumpling Rock, 33 ft. in height, exhibiting, at 42 ft. above the sea, ^A. fixed light, visible 12 miles.

Clark's Point Light. - On the West side of the entrance to New Bedford Har- bour is a white lighthouse, placed on the N.W. angle of the foi't on that point. It is 59 ft. in height, showing, at 68 ft. above the sea, a fixed light, visible 12 miles. Cuttyhunk light bears S. 20° W., distant 13 miles.

Directions. - Those acquainted with Buzzard's Bay commonly use the -western channel, giving the Hen and Chickens a sufficient berth. A league and a half to the north-eastward of these is Mishaun or Mishom Point ; and 2 miles N.E. \ E. from Mishaun Point is the cluster of rocks, above water, called the Dumpling Rocks, which lie off Roundhill Point, and are distinguished by the lighthouse described above. The only danger to be avoided is on Mishaun Point, as a rock lies about 1 mile S.W. by S. from it, having over it only 6 ft. of water ; there is also a ledge directly South of the point, at the distance of a mile, on which there are not more than 3 fathoms, with common ebbs ; it is marked by a black buoy.

From a position half a mile South from the Hen and Chickens lightvessel, a N.E. by E. f E. course for 11 miles, leaving the black buoy on Mishaun Ledge, and the striped buoy on Wilkes's Ledge about a mile distant on your port side, will carry you well outside all the dangers before the entrance of New Bedford, and up to abreast the black buoy on the extremity of the ledge running seven eighths of a mile southward from West Island, and to where Clark's Point lighthouse will be seen bearing N.W. by W. Hence you may steer N.E. towards the head of the bay, passing at a good berth on your port hand, in successive order, the spindle on the Cormorant Rock, the striped buoy on Nye's Ledge, the black buoy on Dobell Rock, and Bird Island lighthouse ; and on your starboard side, when near Bird Island, the black and the red buoys on the edge of the shoal fronting Scraggy Neck, and Wing's Neck lighthouse. Between these two lighthouses your soundings will be 4 and 5 fathoms, gradually decreasing as you approach the broad and shallow flat occupying the head of Bu/zard's Bay, over which are the channels to Warchaci

44 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Harbour and Monnmet River. A pilot is absolutely necessary to a stranger wishing to enter any of the harbours.

Wood's Hole is in the channel separating Naushon Island from the mainland, and serves as a harbour for vessels either from Vineyard Sound or from Buzzard's Bay, but the passage through is only fit for small vessels.

There are two harbours, both on the eastern side of the channel, and named Great and Little Harbours. Great Harbour, on the S.E. side of Long Neck, affords an- chorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms, but is open to southerly winds ; and its length half and breadth a quarter of a mile ; the principal dangers are pointed out by buoys, and there is a landing-place, named Bar Neck Wharf, on its eastern side, nearly close to which are 5 and 6 fathoms water. Little Harbour, separated from the Great Har- bour by Parker's Neck, has its entrance half a mile north-westward of Nobsque lighthouse, runs in about one-third of a mile to the northward, and is therefore also open to southerly winds, is from 1 to 2 cables' lengths in breadth, and has a depth of from 6 to 10 ft. at low water. Intending to proceed into the Great Harbour by the Ship Channel, when off the harbour in 6 fathoms, bring a yellow house at the head of the harbour to bear N. J W. Steer for it, leaving a black buoy on the port hand, and two red ones to starboard, and when Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E., anchor. Or, steer N.W. for the inner harbour, and bring-to in from 4 to 8 fathoms. Red buoys mark the eastern, and black the western limits of this channel, in which, if these courses are preserved, there is not less than 18 ft. water, except on a patch lying nearly in mid-channel off the extremity of Parker's Neck, whereon are only 15 feet water, which you will leave a little on your port hand. Continue on this course till the southern point of that neck comes in range with the church to the north- eastward, then steer for the eastern part of the breakwater until Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E., as before.

NEW BEDFORD. - The best way to New Bedford, even to vessels from the westward, is through Quicks Hole, the channel between two of Elizabeth's Isles, Nashawena and Pasque. These are the second and third of the larger isles from the westward. The harbour of New Bedford is on the western side of Buzzard's Bay ; and Clark's Point, the western point of the entrance, is distinguished by a light- house, before mentioned. Due North from Clark's Point light another fixed liyht is shown on the N.E. extremity of Palmer 's Island, and on the West side of the entrance to New Bedford inner harbour. The light is elevated 38 ft., and visible 12 miles off. The lighthouse of stone is 34 ft. high, and whitewashed.

The directions are, to bring Gay Head light to bear S. £ W., and steering N. f E. to the passage through the islands, named Quick's Hole, which should be entered as near the middle as possible, or keeping rather to the starboard side, so as to avoid a spit or flat, which extends from the S.E. point of Nashawena, on the port. Proceed- ing thus, you will have from 5 to 6 fathoms, and should then haul in, keeping the port side best on board, and following, in some degree, the bend of the shore. Keep Gay Head light about a ship's length open by the S.E. point of Nashawena, till you are at least 1 mile North of the Hole, and this will carry you to the eastward of a ledge and rock which lie at that distance from it, with only 5 to 12 ft. of water on them, with a good channel to the westward, and 5 fathoms all round. Next steer N. J W. till you strike hard bottom in 5 fathoms, on the S.E. corner of the Great Ledge, which is on the western side of the channel ; then N.E. by N. about three- quarters of a mile, till in 5£ or 6 fathoms, sticky bottom, when the light on Clark's Point will bear N. by W., towards which you advance, and run into the river.

Off Round Hill Point, at 2 leagues N.N.W. \ W. from the outlet of Quick's Hole, is the cluster of rocks before mentioned, culled the Dunqdinys, upon which is the

-

MATTAPOISET. 45

lighthouse. From this lighthouse that on Clark's Point bears N.N.E., 4 miles dis- tant. It will therefore be seen, on proceeding upon a direct course from Quick's Hole to New Bedford, at the distance of between 2 and 3 miles ; and when it bears. West, Clark's Point will be about 4 miles distant.

Round Hill Channel. - Running in from the southward and westward, bring Mishaun Point to bear W. by S., and White Rock a ship's length open to the eastward of Dumpling light, and steer to the northward, leaving the red can buoy, No. 4, on Sand Spit, on the starboard hand, and the black spar buoy off Dumpling Rock on the port hand, and keeping the rock more open as you advance, so as to pass a quarter of a mile to the eastward of the light.

When the light bears W. by N. steer N.E. by N., 2^ miles, leaving the red and black buoys on Middle Ledge and Inez Rock on your port hand, until Clark's Point light is in range with Palmer's Island light ; then steer for the beacon on Egg Island Flats N. by E., nearly 2 miles, leaving the black buoy on Old Bartlemy on your port hand, until Palmer's Island light is in range with the tall chimney of Wamsutta Factory. Steer for them, passing the black buoys on Butler's Flats and Eleven-feet Bank on you port , and the red buoys on Egg Island Flat and Fort Flat on your starboard hand, until up with the southern end of Palmer's Island, then steer for the ends of Fairhaven Wharves, passing a red buoy on the North end of Fort Flat on your starboard hand, until you are halfway between them and Palmer's Island light ; then steer for the most northern spire in New Bedford, and anchor near the town.

N.B. - Wamsutta Factory is a large stone building with a very tall chimney on its eastern side; it is in the northern part of the town, and may be seen over Fairhaven Bridge.

Eastern Channel - Bring the white beacon on Fort Point in range with the high dark spire in Fairhaven, and steer for them, until Palmer's Island light and the tall chimney before mentioned are in range, then steer as before directed. On the above course you will pass Hursell Rock and Packet Rock red buoys, and Henrietta Rock striped buoy on your starboard hand, and the black buoy on North Ledge on your port hand.

There are several buoys placed in Buzzard's Bay, but as these are mostly taken up in winter, and may be occasionally altered and shifted, we cannot give a fair account of them ; especially would it be needless, seeing that it is entirely in pilots' water.

MATTAPOISET is situated on the North side of Buzzard's Bay, and is a fine harbour, easy of access. On the East side of Mattapoiset Harbour, about a mile S.E. from the village, is Ned's Point and Lighthouse, showing a fixed light at 43 ft. The tower is of stone, and whitewashed ; from it Cormorant Rock spindle bears S. £ W., Nye's Ledge buoy S. by E. £ E.

Before coming up with West Island, bring Bird Island light to bear N.E. by N., and run for it until Ned's Point light bears N.N.W. | W., when you may haul up N.W. 5 N. In running this course you will pass a white buoy with two black stripes around it, lying on Nye's Ledge, in 2£ fathoms water ; this ledge is a quarter of a mile across, and has not more than 8 ft. on some parts of it. Continuing this course, you will pass a buoy on your port hand, painted white, with three black stripes around it, lying on the S.E. part of Mattapoiset Ledge, in 2| fathoms. Con- tinue the above course, and you will pass two buoys, one on your port hand, and the other to port ; the latter is on the East side of the Sinking Ledge, in 3 fathoms, and the former is on the side of the Snow Rock, in 2£ fathoms ; the rock has 8J feet over it. Keep midway until you pass them, when you may steer N.W. by \V.

46 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

until Ned's Point light bears East, when yon may anchor in 3 fathoms water, good bottom.

There are two other buoys not named above ; one stands about N.E. from Snow Rock, in 3 fathoms water, by the side of Barslow Rock, the other on the extremity Ned's Point, in 2 fathoms.

Bird Island Lighthouse. - Bird Island is near the N.W. shore of Buzzard's Bay, 8 miles N.E. £ E. from the South point of West's Island, and near the mouth of Sippican, or Rochester Harbour ; it lies half a mile South from the Great Neck, or eastern chop of the same. It is very small, not covering more than three acres, and is about 5 ft. above the level of the sea.

The light and dwelling-houses are of stone, and whitewashed. The light-tower is 31 ft. high, and the light, elevated 37 ft., seen at a distance of 15 miles off, revolving once in li minute. The time of total darkness is equal to twice that of light.

From Bird Island Lighthouse the North end of Quick's Hole, between Nashawena and Pasque, bears S.W. by S. 15 miles ; that of Wood's Hole South, 9 miles ; and the entrance of Monumet River, at the head of the bay, N.E. by E. J E. 6 miles.

Sippican Harbour, 3 miles north-eastward of Mattapoiset, has its entrance be- tween Charles's Neck and Bobell Rock on the western, and Sippican Neck and Bird Island on the eastern side. It thence runs in N. by W. J W,, 3 miles, the deepest water, 13 to 21 ft., first being found along the eastern, and afterwards along the -western shore, passing on the West side of a small island lying nearly in mid- channel, up to Sippican, where are from 7 to 10 ft. To run up to Sippican, a stranger should obtain the aid of a pilot.

Near the head of Buzzard's Bay, on the East side of the entrance to Sandwich Harbour, a. fixed bright light is shown at 44 ft. elevation.

The COAST westward of Buzzard's Bay, between Gooseberry Neck and Saugh- konuet Point, forms a rocky bay, and a ship should avoid drifting within the line joining its outer points. At its head is Westyort, a small harbour used by coasters, but requiring a pilot. Its West point of entrance is called Rock Point.

RHODE ISLAND is the easternmost of the cluster which fills the extensive bay, of which Saughkonnet Point is the S.E. entrance.

Saughkonnet River separates it from the mainland on the East. A shoal flat extends half a mile South, East, and West of Saughkonnet Point, upon which are several large rocks always above water, and there is also a shoal patch of 4^ fathoms three-quarters of a mile South to S. by E of the point ; from Sachuset Point, three- quarters of a mile S. by W., lies the Cormorant Rock, with 6 and 7 fathoms close-to all round ; but there is a shallow bank of 3 and 4 fathoms half a mile westward of it, and another W. by S. $ S. of it. To avoid these dangers shape a course midway between the two points, steering N. by E.

Brenton's Reef lies off the S.W. point of Rhode Island, and its lightvessel is the guide to the entrance to Newport Harbour on the eastern side, as the Beavertail lighthouse on the South point of Conanicut Island is on the western side of this entrance.

Brenton's Reef Lightvessel, on the East side of entrance to Newport, is moored in 14 J fathoms. This vessel is painted of a straw colour, with the words " Brenton's Reef" on each side in black letters, and is furnished with a fog bell and horn ; she exhibits two Jixed lights, 40 and 50 ft. respectively above the sea, which are visible about 12 miles. , Point Judith light bears S.W. by W. i W. ; Beavertail, N.W. by N. i N. ; Castle Hill Point, N.E. by X. ] N.

Beavertail Lighthouse, on the South point of Conanicut Island, entrance to Newport Harbour, is a square granite lighthouse on the S.E. angle of keeper's

NEWPORT, OR RHODE ISLAND HARBOUR. 47

dwelling, 74 ft. in height, and 96 ft. above the sea, in lat. 41° 26' 55', and long. 71J 23' 59 , exhibiting a fixed light, visible 16 miles. Dwelling painted white.

A first-order Daboll trumpet, giving blasts of 6 seconds, at intervals of 10 and 50 seconds alternately, is established here for use in thick weather.

About 300 yards S.S.W. from the Beavertail lighthouse is a sunken rock, named th<e Neicton, which becomes awash, and causes the sea to break over it with any swell, and is marked by a buoy, moored in 5 fathoms off its southern side.

NEWPORT, or Khode Island Harbour, is on the S.W. end of Rhode Island, about 3 miles within the entrance points.

The mouth of Newport Harbour, between Rhode Island on the East, and Cona- nicut Island on the West, is 1^ mile broad. On the western side is the Newton Rock, above described ; on the eastern side is Brenton's Leclye, extending nearly three- quarters of a mile out to the S.S.W., the outer end of which is marked by the light- vessel , and there are other rocks near the shore on the same side. Upon the western side, off the Fort Point, at about 3 miles above the lighthouse, are the Dumplings, a cluster of rocks above water, from which the town of Newport bears due East. A fog bell is struck every 15 seconds in thick weather.

Before the town is Goat Island, with its fort and lighthouse, and having a shoal spit from each end. the extremities of which are buoyed. Brenton's Point, with the South end of this island^ form the South passage into Newport. On Rose Island a fixed red light is shown, elevated 50 ft., as a guide through the East Channel, up the bay, and to Newport Harbour.

Along the northernmost spit a breakwater has been constructed, parallel with the town, for the protection of the vessels lying off it. On the North end of the break- water is a lighthouse showing a bright fixed light.

On one of the Lime Rocks, near the South shore of the harbour, opposite the South end of Goat Island, there is a small fixed light, 30 ft. high, and visible to the distance of 1 1 miles in clear weather. It serves as a guide to vessels proceeding to the wharves of the town through the channel between the Lime Rocks and the buoy on the edge of the spit extending from the South end of Goat Island, wherein are from 12 to 18 ft, water.

In coming from the eastward, to clear Brenton's Reef, bring the Beavertail light to bear W.N.W. Run for it until Great Island light can be seen from the deck. The latter will then bear N.E. £- E. Run for this light until it bears East (or, continue your course until it bears E.S.E.), at the same time keeping Beavertail light bearing S.W. by W. in 7 to 9 fathoms, good ground.

In coming from the West for Newport, after passing Point Judith, with its re- volving light, steer N.E. by N. until you draw up with Beavertail light, to which, giving a berth, run for Goat Island light, and anchor as above directed.

Buoys and beacons in Newport Harbour. - A spindle on Saddle Rock, eastward of Hose Island, on either side of which there is a passage ; a spindle ivith ball on a rock at the South end of Rose Island, which you can leave to the northward ; a red buoy with a cross on Dyer's Reef, South part of Coaster's Harbour, to be left to starboard ; another red buoy on the ledge off the Bishop's Rock, called the Triangle Sock, on either side of which you may pass, giving it a berth ; a red spar buoy to the South, and one at the North end of Gull Rocks, both of which you pass to the eastward ; a spar buoy on Providence Point, which is the North end of Prudence Island, to the northward of which is the main channel.

Providence. - The course to this city from Newport Harbour, between the buoy on the Triangle Rock and Warwick Neck light is N. f W. After leaving Prudence Island 3 miles Jvr.E. by N. from Warwick Neck fired light, you pass on your port

48 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

hand a spar buoy, -which you may go very close to. When Warwick Neck light hears West, steer N.N.E. for Nayat Point, leaving the spar buoy on Providence Point on the starboard hand, and running so far to the eastward as to bring Prudence Island to bear South, by which you leave the Middle Ground, which has a buoy on it, on the port hand. Affixed Uijht is shown from the beacon on the shoal extending from Conanicut Point, opposite Nayat Point. Soon after passing this light, you come up with a pyramid directly opposite to the village of Patuxcnt, the base of which is painted black, with a white top, erected on a ledge of rocks, which you may approach very near, leaving it to the port hand. At a short distance you come to another pyramid, and a stake, both of which you leave to port. One-fourth of a mile from the last pyramid lie Lovely Rocks, having a spar buoy on them, which must be left on the starboard hand, going very near to them. All vessels drawing more than 8 ft. have to wait for the tide below the Crook.

NARRAGANSET BAY lies between Conanicut Island and the main. The course in is about N. £ E., taking care to avoid the Whale Ruck, which may be passed on either side ; you may anchor as convenient. At the head of the navigation is the town of Providence, situate at the distance of 9 leagues from the sea.

In the passage between Conanicut Island and the main, on the islet called Dutch Island, is a fixed harbour light at 56 feet, 3 miles North from the Beavertail, and on the North side of the entrance of Dutch Island Harbour, a harbour in which vessels may lie safely in 4 fathoms. Vessels bound into this place should run within half a mile of the lighthouse, before they haul to the eastward for the harbour, as a shoal lies on the South side. An Anderson's fog horn, worked at private expense, is established near the lighthouse.

Wickford is a small harbour on the western side of Narraganset Bay, opposite the North end of Conanicut Island, and 5 miles within Dutch Island lighthouse. On Poplar Point, the South point of entrance, & fixed light is shown from the top of the keeper's dwelling ; it is 51 ft. above the level of the sea, and visible to the distance of 12 miles. In sailing towards Wickford the widest channel is on the West side of Dutch Island ; thence you may pass on either side of Fox Island up to Poplar Point. Although the rocks and shoals in the bay and off the harbour's entrance are marked by buoys or spindles, still it would be safer to employ a pilot.

There is another harbour light (fixed} on Warwick Neck, as before described, on the West side of the entrance to Providence River, at 3 leagues to the northward of that on Dutch Island. Warwick Neck forms the eastern side of the entrance to East Greenwich, which is half a league broad. The opposite side is called Long Point; and on the shoal that surrounds it is a spar buoy, which, on entering, is to be left on the port side.

POINT JUDITH Lighthouse. - About 2 leagues S.W. £ S. from the Beavertail lighthouse is another lighthouse, on Point Judith, which is built of stone, 46 feet high, and stands on the S.W. point of the great bay. Its lantern is 50 ft. above the sea, and contains a light, revolving every 15 seconds, so that it cannot be mistaken. Point Judith light may be distinguished from Watchhill Point light, by the light not wholly disappearing when within 3 leagues of it. A steam foy zyren of the first class is sounded in thick weather, giving blasts of 6 seconds at intervals of 40 seconds.

From the S.E. point of Block Island to Newport lighthouse, on the South end of Conanicut Island, the course and distance are N.N.E. £ E. 8 leagues. About midway between are 24 fathoms of water, the greatest depth, either to the northward or southward, on the course above given.

If you are on the West side of Block Island, with the body of the island bearing E.N.E., in 8 or 10 fathoms water, your course to Point Judith light is N.E. by E.

BLOCK ISLAND. 49

about 6 leagues. This point appears like a nag's head, and is pretty bold. Between Block Island and the point there are from 30 to 6 fathoms water, except a small shoal ground of 13 ft. water, called Squid's Ledge, bearing about W. by S. from Point Judith light, distant 3 miles.

From a quarter of a mile without Point Judith to the entrance of Newport Har- bour, the course and distance are N.E. £ E. 7 miles.

BLOCK ISLAND stands as a sentry in the eastern entrance to Long Island Sound. It is about 5 miles long North and South, of moderate height. When made from southward it shows high and round, and if from the S.E. it is like a saddle, the highest point to the southward.

LIGHTHOUSES. - On its North point is a white tower, 50 ft. high, showing a bright fixed light at 65 ft., seen 14 miles off. Towards the South, or between S.E. and S.W. by S. from the light, it is hidden for an arc of 80° by the higher land of tha island.

Off the North point of Block Island a shoal extends 1J mile North from the light- house. It is extremely dangerous, as the tide sets right across it. Point Judith lighthouse bearing N.E. clears this shoal.

On the S.E. end of Block Island is another light, established in 1874. The tower, 67 ft. high, is built of red brick, with granite trimmings, and the lantern painted black. A fixed bright light is shown at an elevation of 204 ft. above the sea, visible, in clear weather, 21 miles off.

A first-order steam fog syren, giving blasts of 6 seconds at intervals of 20 seconds, in foggy weather, is established just to the S.E. of the lighthouse.

The S. W. Ledge, with 5 fathoms least water, lies 2| miles S.W. from the S.W. end of Block Island ; it is \~ mile long in a N.E. and S.W. direction.

With Block Island bearing North, 4 or 5 leagues distant, you cannot see any land to the northward or eastward ; but, on approaching the island, you will see Montauk Point, the eastern point of Long Island, with its lighthouse to the westward, making as a long low point.

In sailing to the W.S.W. you will make no remarkable land on Long Island, as its broken laud appears at a distance like islands. You will have 20 or 22 fathoms out of sight of land, sandy bottom in some, and clay in other places.

The charts will be the best guide for soundings. To the southward of Neman's Island, near Martha's Vineyard, there is coarse sand, like gravel stones, in 20 and 25 fathoms ; and S.S.W. from it, in 28 or 30 fathoms, coarse red sand. S.S.E. from Block Island, in what is termed Block Island Channel, there are 30 and 40 fathoms, with oazy bottom j but, shoaling the water to 25 or 20 fathoms, you will find coarse sand.

From the South end of Block Island to Gay Head, distinguished by the lighthouse already described (page 40), the bearing and distance are E.N.E. 13 leagues. From the same end of Block Island to the lighthouse at the entrance of Rhode Island Har- bour, the bearing and distance are N.N.E. £ E. 8 leagues.

U.S. - Part I.

5f) HOSTOX TO XKW YORK.

LONG ISLAND SOUND.

Long Island Sound is about 110 miles in length, between Block Island and its western extremity at the East River leading to New York, and is about 17i miles wide where broadest. Its shores and dangers are well marked by lighthouses and lightvessels, buoys and beacons, so that with ordinary care it affords a safe and easy inland navigation for all classes of vessels up to the important port at its head.

It is, moreover, the outlet of a large portion of the produce of the rich State of Connecticut on the North side, and of Long Island on the South, the latter having no good shelter on its Atlantic shore. Its navigation and the relation of the sea marks erected in it will be best understood by referring to the chart, the result of the elaborate surveys of the United States officers, which leave nothing to be desired.

MONTAUK POINT LIGHTHOUSE - The eastern extremity of Long Island is also the point of the peninsula which, with the fertile Gardiner's Island, forms the 1S.W. side of Block Island Sound.

The LIGHTHOUSE is a white stone tower 97 ft. high, showing a first-order lens light. It is & fixed light, varied by flashes once in every 2 minutes, at the height of 172 ft. above the sea. The fixed light, between the intervals of flashes, may be seen at the distance of 20 miles, and the flashes from 3 to 5 miles farther. The keeper's house, on an adjacent hill, is painted brown. During thick weather a first- order Daboll trumpet gives blasts of 12 seconds at intervals of 50 seconds. A strand of 6 to 18 ft. surrounds the point, and extends off it and the coast to the north-west- ward, about half a mile, but southward and westward to not more than one-third of .a mile ; close to its edge are from 4 to 10 fathoms, bottom of sand and specks.

Montauk Shoal lies 2§ miles S. by E. from the lighthouse, is small, and has from 4 to 5 fathoms over it, bottom of hard sand. It is plainly shown by the tide rips, and the sea breaks upon it in heavy gales from seaward. Between this shoal and the point there are from 6^ to 12 fathoms, and from 6 to 12 close- to all round it.

Between Montauk Point and Block Island there are 10 to 15, and for a small space 20 and 23 fathoms ; and as you approach the island you will cross the S.\V. Ledge. On the N..W. side of this ledge the depth suddenly shoalens from 13 to 6 fathoms, and before a second cast of the lead be obtained, you will be over its shoalest part into 7, 8, 10, 12, and then 14 fathoms. With Montauk light bearing W. £ S., distant 8 miles, you will be in 7 to 12 fathoms on the western edge of the ledge, from which to the point you will get 12 to 9, 10, and 7 fathoms. Towards the lighthouse, when it bears from W. to S.W. by W., the bottom is strong, consisting of gray sand and gravel ; but towards the ledge the bottom is of coarse sand, and over it there is a strong tide and rippling. \Vhen rounding Montauk Point, you can go within a cable's length of the surf, and have 17 to 20 ft., but to keep farther off will of course be more prudent.

At 3| miles N.W. i W. from Montauk lighthouse is a small reef, named the Shag- tvony, \vhicli has but 5 ft. water on it, and is marked by an iron bell boat, painted Hack, with the name in white letters on it. Close to it on all sides there are 4 to 6 fathoms, and between it and Long Island there is a 4-fathom swatch, through which ships may pass, only taking care to avoid the Washington Shoal, a shoal of 12 to 18 feet, the shallowest part of which lies five-eighths of a mile from the shore. The Shagwong Shoal is shown by the tide rip.

BLOCK ISLAND SOUND lies, as before said, between Block Island, Gardiner's Island, and the Connecticut shore.

CERBERUS SHOAL - GARDINER'S ISLAND. 51

The Cerberus Shoal, or Middle Ground, is the principal reef to be avoided in it. It is nearly midway between Montauk Point and Fisher's Island, and is highly dangerous, as it consists of pointed rocks, and has but 13 ft. upon it ; it is, however, usually shown by the tide rips. It is of but small extent, and bears from Montauk lighthouse, N.X.V. J W., 7f miles ; from Gull Island light, E.S.E. >s S., 7 miles ; and from Watch Hill light, S.W. f S., 9 miles. On the South and West sides of the shoal the water deepens quickly from 5 to 12 fathoms ; and on the North side it is steep-to, there being close to its edge 14 to 15 fathoms. Caution is always requisite in approaching this shoal, the more particularly as little, if any, warning is given by the lead.

It may be marked by a buoy or spindle, but in case that this should not be, then the mark for avoiding the Cerberus Reef is a conspicuous hill with a notch in its centre, at the back of New London, called Pole's If ill. This kept a ship's length open, either to the eastward or westward of Mount Prospect (or the sand-hills in the West of Fisher's Island), will lead clear of the shoal, in 10 or 15 fathoms, to the eastward, and in 8 or 9 fathoms to the westward. The tide, as already noticed, sets strongly over the shoal. In scant wind, or a calm, a vessel should anchor before any of the marks or bearings are too near.

Fond Bay, or Fort Pond Bay, is 5£ miles westward of Montauk Point, on the North side of Long Island.

In proceeding towards Pond Bay, or Gardiner's Island, from the eastward, keep the two bluffs, or high parts of the laud, to the westward of Montauk Point, open one of the other, until Culloden Point, on the East side of Fort Pcnd Bay, comes open of Shagwong Point, which is about 2 miles W.N.W. from Montauk Point. These marks will lead safely through, in from 9 to 3 fathoms.

The tides set strongly about Montauk Point ; the flood to the N.E., and ebb contrary. At the Shagwong Reef, the flood sets W. by S., and the ebb to the contrary.

On rounding Montauk Point in the night, when the land or light can be seen, and during a westerly gale, you may anchor when the light btars S.W. by S. in 8 or 9 fathoms, coarse sand. Having brought Montauk Point to the southward of West, when the weather is thick, and you cannot clearly ascertain the distance from the point, the lead must be your guide. Steer as high as W.N.W. until you have gained 9 fathoms ; then haul off into 13 ; and if you suddenly shoalen from 10 to 6, steer off E. by N. until you gain 11 or 12, which will soon be ; and a good lead kept well going, will prevent your going too near the reefs.

In the daytime, if bound to Gardiner's Bay, and having rounded Montauk Point, steer N. by W. until you clearly discover the points that form Fort Pond Bay, and see the red cliff on the western point open of Culloden or the eastern point. You may then steer W. by S. for the bluff point of Gardiner's Island, passing between the Shagwong and Cerberus Reefs.

A vessel may, if requisite, take shelter in Fort Pond Bay, which is half a league broad, and of the same depth. This place is very convenient for watering ; the ground is clear and good, and you may anchor in any depth, from 7 to 3 fathoms, at pleasure. In a large ship you may bring Willis's or the eastern point to bear N.E., and even N.E. by N., and then have in the middle about 7 fathoms of water. Near the shore, at the bottom of the bay, is a pond of fresh water.

GARDINER'S ISLAND is of an irre-ular. figure, and shelters the bay of the same name from the eastward. Its South end is nearly connected with a long island, high shoals forming the head of Ncapcague Bay. The Eastern Plain, or N.E. point of the island, is 10 miles W.N.^ . from Montauk Point.

32 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

A Lighthouse stands on the low North point of the island. It is about 200 yards within its extremity, where is a brick-built house, with a circular tower attached to the North end, and painted brown. This tower is 27 ft. high, and shows a Jlxcd light at an elevation of 29 ft. above the mean level of the sea, visible 1 1 miles oft'. A sandy flat, of 8 to 12 ft., surrounds the island, and runs off the shore in some places about five-eighths of a mile. On the West side of the island is a shoal, named the Crow, which lies about If mile S.W. from the West point of the island, and is connected thereto by a flat of 14 to 18 ft. ; this shoal has but 6 ft. water on it, and may be avoided on its western side by keeping Great Gull Island just open North of Gardiner's Point lighthouse.

Neapeague Bay, or the space between the S.E. side of Gardiner's Island and the coast westward of Fort Pond Bay, has a depth of from 8 to 5 fathoms, gradually shoaling towards the sand-banks, which occupy nearly the whole of the passage between the South point of Gardiner's Island and the adjacent shore of Long Island, leaving only a very narrow and winding channel among them, 3 and 4 fathoms deep, into Gardiner's Bay. Neapeague Harbour, a small and almost land-locked basin in the South part of Neapeague Bay, with 6, 8, and 17 ft. water in it, is but seldom frequented.

GARDINER'S BAY is 7 miles long and 6 broad, and is the outer part of the bay which deeply indents the eastern part of Long Island. The principal places in it are Greenport and Sag Harbour.

Its N.E. entrance is between the lighthouse on Gardiner's Point and Plum Island, also marked by a light.

Off the lighthouse on Gardiner's Point is the SuperUs Reef, the outer part of which is E.N.E. f E. from the extremity of Gardiner's Spit, one-third of a mile ; it thence extends S.E. by E. about two-thirds of a mile, and is about 200 yards broad. The depth on the middle is 3 fathoms, 6 close to the N.W. end ; 4, 4£, and 5 fathoms close to the S.E. end ; 5 and 6 fathoms close to the East side. The mark for clearing it, when sailing into Gardiner's Bay, is to keep Plum Gut (the channel on the West of Plum Island) a ship's breadth open. You must stand to the northward, until Plum Gut is nearly closing with Oyster Pond Point, or the N.E. bluff of Long Island, or till the South point of Plum Island seems nearly to touch the same ; but tack before the points close, or stand over into no less than 7 fathoms.

New London lighthouse, kept a sail's breadth open to the eastward of Plum Island, will run you up into the middle of Gardiner's Bay, in the deepest water, and out of the tide. You may anchor at pleasure in from 5 to 8 fathoms. There is good riding on the S.W. side of the island. A ship from the East side, with an easterly wind, may take shelter here by proceeding as before directed ; for it is to be observed, that the channel southward of the island is shoal, and fit for small vessels only. A con- spicuous single tree on the S.E. part of Plum Island is a good mark for clearing the Superb's Reef, by tacking before it is brought to touch the South end of the wood on the same island.

Sag Harbour is in the S.W. corner of Gardiner's Bay, on the South side of Shelter Island. Extensive sand-banks bar the approach to it, over which from 12 to 15 ft. water can be carried, but the channel up to Sag is narrow and winding, and, though buoyed throughout, it is advisable to employ a pilot. When in, ex- cellent shelter can be had in a moderate depth, and supplies of all descriptions can be obtained at the village. About one mile inside the bar, and on the port hand in entering, is Cedar Island, with a ichtte building on it, on the top of which a mnall fixed light is exhibited, at the height of 34 feet, visible to the distance of 10 miles.

PLUM ISLAND AND GUT. 53

Greenport is a place that has become of some importance, in consequence of its being the termination of the Long Island Railway ; the distance hence to Stoning- ton, the southern end of the railway from Boston, being by sea 24 miles.

Light. - On the shoal extending from Long Beach Point a pile lighthouse is con- structed in 5 ft. water. From it a. fixed red light is shown, elevated 54 ft. In thick weather a cast-steel bell is sounded at intervals of 15 seconds. Vessels rounding this point, should pass at least 160 ft. outside the buoy placed on the extremity of the shoal.

Vessels bound to Greenport from the Plum Gut, just described, may make their course S.W., and run 3 miles, which will carry them up to Sen's Point, or Long Beach. This beach is 3| miles long, and covered with low cedar trees, which you leave on your starboard hand going up to Greenport. You will have, from Plum Gut to Ben's Point, from 4 to 4± fathoms water, and then your course is W.S.W. 3£ miles. In running this course you will shoal your water to 3 fathoms, and if you get any less water, haul to the southward ; and as soon as you get 3 fathoms, keep your course, and run on until you, by heaving your lead, from one heave will have from 3 to 7 fathoms water. As soon as you get 7 or 8 fathoms water, your course is W.N.W. 1 mile, which will carry you to Hay Beach Point, on Shelter Island, which you will leave on your port hand. Haul close round Hay Beach Point, and your course is W.S.W. 1£ mile to Greenport ; then you may come to an anchor in a good harbour.

From off Gardiner's Point to Greenport is 12 miles, and the course is W. by S. Running this course, you will shoal your water gradually from 6 fathoms to 3 fa- thoms on Long Beach side, and then you follow the above directions to Greenport. Five fathoms can be carried into Greenport.

Oyster Pond Point is the N.W. point of Gardiner's Bay, and off it is Plum Island, the channel between being called Plum Island Gut.

PLUM ISLAND Lighthouse stands on the West point of the island. It is 3-1 feet high, which shows a light revolving once in every 30 seconds at 63 ft. above the sea, visible 12 miles off. A cast-steel fog liM is struck at intervals of 15 seconds in foggy weather.

Along the S.E. side of Plum Island there is a sandy flat of 8 to 12 ft. water, upon the edge of which there is a rock nearly awash at low water. There are 12 ft. inside this rock, and 3^ fathoms close-to outside. To avoid it, go not into less than 6 fathoms, when approaching the East side of the island. The northern shore of the island should have a berth of at least half a mile, as there are a 6 and a 9 ft. rock lying off the middle of that side, with deep water close-to.

PLUM GUT, between Plum Island and Oyster Pond Point, is the channel com- monly used by vessels bound to the western part of Long Island Sound. In this Gut is a rock, on which the British frigate Loire once struck ; but it is so very small, that it is difficult to strike soundings on it ; it is nearer to the reef extending from Oyster Pond Point than to Plum Island.

This shoal consists of rocks and large stones with 16 ft. of water over them, having 16 and 17 fathoms on the N.E. side, 20 on the N.W., and 6 and 7 on the South side. It is marked by a stone beacon 12 ft. high, surmounted by a shaft and cage of iron, 20 ft. in height. It stands E. \ N. half a mile from Pond Point. Plum Island light- house bears N.E. J N. three-quarters of a mile from it.

There is another rock, having 24 ft. over it, about 400 yards from the rocky or bluff point of Plum Island.

In advancing towards Plum Gut, the Gull, or Bedford Reef, is to be avoided. This reef lies to the south- west ward of the Great Gull Island, and has 16 or 17 ft. over

51 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

its shoaleat part at low water ; and its outer part is about half a league to the S.W. by S. from the Gull lighthouse. It is about 30 yards broad and 400 long, lying S,E. and N.W. The shallower part lies with a house on Plum Island, standing abowt one-third of the way between the middle and the N.E. end, on with the northern- most of the two trees which appear beyond the house ; the West end of Gall Island N. by W. 5 W., and the South end of Plum Island on with Oyster Pond Point, or the N.E. point of Long Island.

The marks formerly given are - 1. The N.E. end of the northernmost grove of trees on Plum Island touching the South declining end of the southernmost of the white sand-hills on Plum Island. These sand-hills are the two next South of the houses in the bay. 2. A large notch or gap in a wood on the main land, to the westward of Black Point, a sail's breadth open to the northward of a remarkable single black rock, which is between the South end of Great Gull Island and the N.E. end of Plum Island N.W. by N. The rock appears nearly in form of half a semi-circle, with its perpendicular side to the East.

In order to avoid this reef, be sure to keep Oyster Pond Point open to the South end of Plum Island, whilst the house on Plum Island is on with the northernmost of the two trees above mentioned. There are several trees, but they appear, when seen from a distance, as two only.

Plum Island Road is on the S.E. side of Plum Island. In this road a vessel may anchor, with Mount Prospect, or the high white sand-hills of Fisher's Island, touch- ing the Gull lighthouse, and bearing N. 62° E. ; and the N.E. part of Long Island in one with the S.E. end of Plum Island, bearing West ; or the East bluff' points of Gardiner's Island in one with the low beach extending from the North side of the island, S. 45a E. With these marks are from 7 to 8 fathoms, soft mud, and quite out of the tide, at not more than three-quarters of a mile from the shore of Plum Island, where there is very convenient and good water.

LITTLE GULL ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE. - The Gull Islands lie to the west- ward of Plum Island. They are two in number, of but small extent, are surrounded by a rocky reef, especially oif their eastern and western extremities, and should, therefore, not be approached nearer than 3 or 4 cables' lengths. Upon the eastern and smaller island, on the South side of the main entrance to Long Island Sound, is a gray granite lighthouse, 74 ft. high, showing a fixed light at the height of 92 ft. above the sea, visible 17 miles off. A steam fog syren, giving blasts of o seconds at intervals of 25 seconds, is sounded in thick weather.

The channel between Gull Islands and Plum Island has a width of 1| mile, and a depth of from 3£ to 6 fathoms, but as there are several dangers in it, this passage is better avoided. In the middle of the channel there is a black rock, named the Old Silas, close to the westward of which is a sunken ledge of 5 to 13 ft. ; and about half a mile S. by W. of the Old Silas is a reef named the Bedford, before mentioned, upon which there are 13 ft. The stream of flood in this channel during the second and third quarters sets N.W., at a rate of from 1£- to 2^ miles an hour, but in its early part it runs N.W. by W. H mile, and during the latter portion N. by W. £ W. three quarters of a mile an hour ; the ebb preserves nearly the same direction throughout, namely, S.E. by E. £ E., running with a velocity of 2£ to 2£ miles, except in its latter part, at which time its strength is only about half a mile an hour.

The RACE, or the channel between the western end of Fisher's Island and the Gull Island is the one principally used by vessels bound into and out of Long Island Sound, as it is both wider and deeper than the channel between the Gull Islands and Plum Island, or than that between Plum Island and Oyster Pond Point, named Plum Gut. The depth varies from 7 to 40 fathoms, and the width it 32 milt^, but

THE RACE ROCK - DIRECTIONS. 55

there are two dangerous rocks in the way, named the Race and Valiant Rocks, the position of which should be avoided.

On the days of full and change high water takes place at 9h 38m ; spring tides rise -i' and neap 2$ ft. ; the average duration of the flood or rising tide being 6h 1™, and that of the ebb or falling tide 6h 21m, allowing 37 minutes for still water. During the first quarter the flood runs by compass in a N.W. direction, at the rate of 2£ miles an hour ; during the second, N.W. by W., 3| miles ; in the third, W. by N. JN., 3£ miles ; and during the last quarter, N.W. by W. £ W., If mile per hour. For the first quarter of the ebb the tidal current sets S.E. with a velocity of rather more than 2 miles an hour ; in the second quarter nearly in the same direction, but with a rate increased to 3J miles ; during the third quarter, S.E. by E. ^ E., 4 miles ; and in the fourth quarter, about E. by S., If mile per hour.

The Race Rock lies S.W., half a mile from the West end of Fisher's Island, and has but 4 ft. on it, with 14 to 18 fathoms close-to, and 5 and 7 fathoms between it and the island. It is marked either by buoys or a spindle. The mark to clear it on the western side is Mistic lighthouse open to the northward of North Hill. A Uyhthouse is building on it.

The Valiant Rock lies in the middle of the Race Channel, and has bat 17 ft. upon it, with 5 to 13 fathoms close-to all round. It bears from Little Gull Island N.E. by E. £ E., distant 2 miles, and from New London lighthouse S. J E. of miles.

The marks for this rock are, 1. New London lighthouse in one with two con- spicuous trees, which stand on the declivity of a hill, at the back of New London, being remarkable for a gap on its summit, N. 40° W. 2. The western side of the South Dumpling, within Fisher's Island, just touching with the North hill. or point of that island, N. 4P E. 3. The East bluff of the Great Gull Island in one with the western lower extreme of Little Gull Island, or the Gull lighthouse a small sail's breadth open to the eastward of the East part of Great Gull Island, S. 64° W. 4. The North part of Long Island just shut in with the N.W. point of Plum Island, 8. 7ti' W. ; Gull Light, S. 63° W. ; and Mount Prospect, or high white sandhills on Fisher's Island, N. 60° E.

Directions. - To run for the Race Channel from the south-eastward, bring Moa- tauk lighthouse to bear N. by W. f W., distant If mile, when you will be in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. Steer N. J E. 3J miles, until the lighthouse bears S.W. by S., distant 2 miles, when you will be in 7 fathoms, gravelly bottom ; haul now to the N.W. 5 W., and run 13 miles, which will take you into the Race Channel, 1 mile E.N.E. from Little Gull Islami lighthouse, leaving the Shagwong Reef 1 mile to the southward and westward, and Cerberus Shoal 1 mile to the northward and eastward.

If wishing to pass to the eastward of the Cerberus Shoal when Montauk lighthouse bears S.W. by S., distant 2 miles, steer N.W. by N. £ N., 7£ miles, until Montauk lighthouse bears S. by E. £ E., 8£ miles, and Gull light W. by N. J N., when you will be in 25 fathoms, gray sand and black specks. Steer now W. by N. J N., 6J miles, leaving the Cerberus Shoal 1^ mile to the southward and westward, when, if these courses are made good, you will be in the Race Channel as before, and southward of the Valiant Rock.

If you are off the South end of Block Island, give it a berth of 1 mile, passing between it and the S.W. Ledge in 7 and 8 fathoms, and steer W.N.W., 18 miles, and when Gull light bears W. i N., steer W. by N. for about 3j miles, you will then be at the entrance of the Race Channel as before. In this course you will go to the northward of the Cerberus Shoal.

With the flood tide safest course is to give Gull lighthouse a berth of from half to

56 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

1 \ mile ; or if bound to New London follow the suggestions given on page 69, taking care, however, not to bring Gall lighthouse to the southward of W. by S. till New London light is in range with the highest steeple in the town, bearing North a little westerly ; a W. by N. course will then carry you through the Race clear of the Valiant Rock. Passing through the Race between Valiant and Race Rocks, keep the highest point of Great Gull Island open South of the lighthouse, till New Lon- don lighthouse is well open to the westward of the gap in Bolle's Hill, N. by W. ; keep it on this bearing until up with the harbour's mouth ; or, if bound up the Sound, you may steer to the westward as soon, as South Hummock appears northward of North Hill, on Fisher's Island. Should yon be compelled to enter between Race Rock spindle and Fisher's island, you must be careful to avoid a reef running off a quarter of a mile from the West point of that island, the edge of which is usually marked by a buoy. When leaving the Sound for the eastward with the ebb tide, the reverse of these instructions will answer the same purpose.

The NORTH COAST of Block Island Sound extends between Point Judith light- house before mentioned and Watch Hill Point. Westward of Judith Point, and separated from it by soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms, is Squid's Ledge, a narrow rocky shoal, extending three-quarters of a mile in a N. £ W. and S. £ E. direction, with 13 feet at each end, the southern being 1J mile West from Point Judith lighthouse, and the northern end half a mile from the shore, between which the depth is 3j fathoms. To clear it on the South side, do not bring Point Judith light eastward of E. by N. Hence to Watch Hill Point, at the entrance to Fisher's Island Sound, the coast trends W. | S. 18 miles, and consists of a low sandy beach, enclosing several Jakes or ponds, which have communication with the sea by means of very narrow and shallow outlets ; there is, however, no outlying danger, and a depth of ;{, 4, and 5 fathoms will be found a quarter of a mile off the land, so that at night time, or in thick weather, soundings of 10 and 12 fathoms and upwards should be maintained.

FISHER'S ISLAND and SOUND. - Fisher's Island Sound is the northern entrance to Long Island Sound, and is perfectly safe with local knowledge or with a pilot, and with the following directions ; and is to be preferred, if bound eastward on the flood, or West with an ebb tide, to going through the Race, or to the South of Fisher's Island ; but it should not be attempted without a leading wind by strangers, and great attention should be paid to the lead.

It is about 8 miles in length, but the fairway or main channel through it is not over three-quarters of a mile in width where narrowest, though the sound itself has an average breadth of 1J mile. In it there are a great number of rocks and shoals above and under water, a correct knowledge of the positions of which can only be obtained by a reference to the chart, the result of the survey made by the officers of the United States Navy. Upon several of the most dangerous reefs there are spindles or buoys to mark their situation, but there are many dangers which are not so marked, hence great caution must be taken in proceeding through, or to any place in it.

Tides. - At Watch Hill Point it is high water on the days of full and change at 9h ; springs range 3 ft., and neaps 2| ft. ; the average duration of the flood is about 6h 35m, and that of the ebb 5h 56™. The stream of flood comes in from the eastward, and continues through the sound with a velocity not exceeding 1J mile per hour, and the ebb the contrary, its greatest rate being 1£ mile per hour.

Lights. - On Watch Hill Point, at the eastern entrance of Fisher's Island Sound, there is a fixed light shown at the height of 62 ft. above the mean level of the sea, from a granite tower 40 ft high, standing at the S.E. corner of the keeper's dwel-

DIRECTIONS FOR FISHER'S ISLAND AND SOUND. 57

ling, which latter is built of brick, and whitewashed ; in ordinary states of the atmosphere the light can be seen at the distance of 14 miles. Within the sound, on the northern shore, and on the South end of the promontory which forms the eastern side of the harbour, and whereon is built the town of Stonington, is a white building serving as the keeper's dwelling, from the top of which, at the height of 50 ft., a fixed light is exhibited, visible to the distance of 12 miles. About 4 miles W. by N. from Watch Hill Point, nearly 2j miles W.S.W. from Stonington light, and on the South side of Eel-Grass Ground, is a lightvessel moored in 4 fathoms, which shows a fixed light at an elevation of 32 ft., visible 10 miles in clear weather ; a bell is rung and a horn sounded in foggy weather every alternate 5 minutes; the main ship channel is southward of it. Morgan's Point lighthouse on the northern shore of the Bound, and on the West side of entrance to Mistic River, is 34 ft. high, and coloured white; its light, & fixed one, may be seen about 11 miles off, being shown at the height of 44 ft. The light on the North Dumpling, an islet in the western entrance to the sound, W. by S. 3J miles from Eel-Grass lightvessel, is a red fixed light, 70 ft. high, exhibited from a tchite tower 25 ft. high, and is therefore visible at a distance of 12 miles; a bell is rung in foggy weather at intervals of 15 seconds.

Directions. - At the eastern entrance to Fisher's Island Sound a chain of isolated reefs, with from 3 to 6 fathoms between, forms a kind of curve from the East point of Fisher's Island to Watch Hill Point. There are many channels through it, but the three principal are the Watch Hill Point, Lord's, and East Point Channels. When approaching, therefore, great caution should be exercised, particularly as the tide sets over the rocks with considerable strength. If to the eastward of Watch Hill Point, and bound through the sound, steer so as to give the point a berth of 2 cables' lengths to avoid the Gangway Rock, with only 2 ft. water over it, which lies 300 yards S. by W. from Watch Hill light, and is marked by a buoy ; you will thus leave the spindle on Watch Hill Reef 3 or 4 cables on the port hand ; a W. J N. course should now be followed, giving the next point to Watch Hill, namely, Napatree Point, a berth of 3 cables on your starboard side, in case the buoy marking the reef running from it should be driven from its position ; as you proceed on this course, the two spindles marking the rocks on each side of Lord's Channel will be left to port, and that on Latimer's Reef should have a berth of a quarter of a mile on your starboard hand. A rock lies a quarter of a mile E. by S. from Latimer's Spindle, with only 3 feet upon it, which is marked by a buoy on its eastern side. When nearly abreast Latimer's Reef, you will have on the opposite side of the channel the Wicopesset Keef, Seal, and Young's Rocks, consequently you should not approach the shore of Fisher's Island hereabout nearer than 3| or 4 cables' lengths, though Young's Rock has a buoy off it. Continue on the above (W. f N.) course, leaving East Clump Islet on the port, and the buoy and spindle on Ellis' Reef on the starboard side. As soon as Ellis' Spindle, which is about 1| mile westward of Eel-Grass lightvessel, bears North, distant 3± cables' lengths, steer W. £ S., passing on the North side of Dumpling lighthouse; this will carry you out to the lightvessel off the South end of Bartlett's Reef, and a fresh course can then be shaped up Long Island Sound. But if bound to New London, continue as before - that is, W. | N., and you will probably pass over an 18-feet hard spot, just before you come abreast of Groton Long Point. Give this point and the buoy on the edge of the off-lay from it a good berth, and also the point next westward of it, off which there is a rock, with only 1 foot over it, at the distance of 2 cables' lengths. When the spindle on Sea- flower Reef bears S.W. by W., and the North and South Hummocks or Dumplings are in range, the first will be distant 4 cables' lengths, and the buoy on the Horse- shoe Reef will be a similar distance off on 3'our starboard side. From this position U. S. - Part I. I

-">« BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

the New London lighthouse will appear just open North of Smith's House N.W. by AV. i AV., a course that, when followed, will lead up to the former through Pine Island Channel.

In following these directions, notice that between Watch Hill Point and Latimer's Reef, the last of the tide sets across the reefs which lie between Watch Hill Point and the Ea&t end of Fisher's Island. This set, on the ebb particularly, must be allowed for. On the flood it is not so strong.

Lord's Channel, on the eastern side of Wicopesset Islet, should not be attempted by a stranger, unless the leading mark, namely, Stonington lighthouse, open a sail's breadth to the eastward of the white hotel in the northern part of the town, can be clearly distinguished. When such is the case follow that direction, passing be- tween the two spindles, giving the eastern one a berth of 1^ cable's length. and when Watch Hill Point lighthouse bears E. 5 S., haul up W. 3 N., and proceed as before directed.

East Point Channel, between Wicopesset Islet and Fisher's Island (East point), cannot be recommended to a stranger; in it there are only from 15 to 18 ft. water. The leading mark is Latimer's spindle in line with the centre and highest part of a wood on Mason's Island, bearing about N.\V. f N. ; this leads over or very near a sunken rock of 4 feet, which has a buoy on it to be left on the port hand going in. Having followed this line of direction till within 3| cables of the spindle, steer AV. £ N. as before.

Coaling in from the westward, when the lightvessel off Bartlett's Reef bears North, distant nearly half a mile, steer E. £ N., and pass almost close-to on the North side of North Dumpling lighthouse up to where the spindle on Ellis' Reef bears North, dis- tant 3£ cables' lengths. An E. £ S. course will then lead out between Watch Hill Point and Reef, aad by reversing the foregoing directions for passing through from the eastward, a vessel will be enabled to get out by one or other of the channels clear of the reefo at the eastern entrance of Fisher's Island Sound.

STONINGTON lies OB the North side of the eastern entrance to Long Island Round, and is built principally on a rocky point of land which projects half a mile into the sound. It has a good harbour, protected by a breakwater, constructed by the United .States Government at an expense of 50,000 dollars. It is on the termina- tion of the railroad running to Providence and Boston, and will, with the Long Island railway, which terminates at Greenport, on Long Island, form the most direct route between New York and Boston, a distance of 21 1£ miles.

Light. - The entrance to the harbour is marked by a tiyhthouse, showing a fixed light, elevated 50 ft., which bears from Watch Hill Point lighthouse N.W. | W. 2 uiiles distant; Latimei-'s Reef N.E. £ E. 2 miles ; and the North Dumpling E. by N. £ N. 5| miles.

Bound into Stonington from the eastward, and having followed a W. £- N. course from the Gangway Rock buoy, lying 300 yards oft' Watch Hill Point, then as soon as Napatree Point bears N.E. by N., steer N.W. by W. towards the highest part of the wood on Mason's Island, until the beacon on the end of the breakwater, which ia u white conical stone with a black barrel on the top, comes on with a large circular building (an engine-house) at the inner end of the steam-boat wharf, bearing N. by E. £ E. Haul up on this bearing, turn in close round the breakwater, and anchor just far enough in to swing clear of it in 2 fathoms, mud.

Smaller vessels can, when Napatree Point bears N.E. by N., run in with the brenk- Mau-r beacon in line with the easternmost white house on the N.W. side of the harbour, N. by AV. I AY,, passing ouer a sandy bar.k in 9 and 10 ft. at low water, close to the

NEW LONDON. 3<»

West side of Bartlett's Reef, half a mile S.S.E. i S. from Stonington light, and giv- ing the lighthouse point a berth of a cable's length or more.

If from the southward, and resolved to enter the sound by Lord's Channel, bring the hotel before mentioned open a sail's breadth westward of Stonington lighthouse, which will carry you through Lord's Channel in 6 to 3^ fathoms water. Steer now north-westerly, so as to clear the shoal water extending from Bartlett's Reef until the light bears N. by E., when you may steer directly for the beacon on the end of the breakwater, into the harbour.

Bound to Stonington from the westward, steer to where the spindle on Ellis' Reef bears North, distant 3 5 cables' lengths, continue on an E. f !N. course, passing about a cable's length southward of Eel-Grass lightvessel, and when Stonington lighthouse bears N.E. £ E,, run for it, until the beacon on the breakwater is on with the engine- house, then proceed as before. At night haul in for the anchorage when half a mile from the lighthouse, steering N. by E. ~ E.

Mistic River flows into Fisher's Island Sound at 3| miles westward of Stonington. There are two channels into it, one for vessels of 8 ft. draught, the other for vessels di awing not over 10 ft. They are buoyed, but are too narrow and crooked to be taken by a stranger without the aid of a pilot. There is a, fixed light on Morgan's Point, on the West side of the entrance to Mistic River.

NEW LONDON. - The lighthouse on the western side of the entrance to New London bears from the Race Rock, off the West end of Fisher's Island, N. by W. f W. 4% miles. It is a white tower, with the keeper's dwelling painted a drab colour. The light isjixed and bright, at 90 feet above the sea, and visible 15 miles off. A third class fog-trumpet is sounded in thick weather, giving blasts of 6 seconds at in- tervals of 14 seconds.

A vessel bound to this port, after passing the Race Rock and S.W. end of Fisher's Island, should keep the light bearing between N.N.W. and N.N.E., if beating to windward ; but with the fair wind, bring the light to bear North, and run directly for it; leave it on your port side when running in. When in you may find good an- choring in 4 or 5 fathoms water, clayey bottom.

White Rock and Powder Island are on the West side, about halfway up to the town. Fort Point, on the same side, is half a mile above White Rock. In New London are three remarkable buildings - the Court House, the Presbyterian Meeting House, and Church. The Meeting House is the middle one. Pine Island is an islet three-quarters of a mile without the harbour, on the eastern side.

There are reefs on both sides, without the entrance; but particularly the Sea Floiver, the S. W. Ledge, and Slack Ledge, both marked by buoys, on the eastern side, at three-quarters of a mile both from the eastern and western shores. On the Sea Flower Reef, 2f miles S.E. by E. from New London lighthouse, is a stone beacon, 12 ft. high, surmounted by an iron mast and cage. At 1^ mile N.W. by W. from it is another, on the northern part of Black Ledge. Frank's Ledge, of 1? ft., lies mid- way between S.W. Ledge and Black Ledge. New London is 2 miles up the har- bour, from the lighthouse ; and on the opposite shore is the town of Groton.

High water at 12h 30m. Common spring tides rise 3| ft. ; high spring tides 5 ft.

Having brought the Gull light to bear W. by N., or the light on Watch Hill Point N.E., steer so as to bring New London lighthouse open of Fisher's Island, and when the spire of New London Church, bearing N. 83 W., is in one with the gap on Bolle's Hill, steering with it in that direction will carry you between the Race Rock and Valiant's Rock, or you may bring New London lighthouse a saii's breadth to the eastward of the church spire, bearing N. 5' E., which will carry you

60 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

to the westward of the Valiant's Rock, or between that rock and the Gull lighthouse. Thence steer for New London, as hereafter directed.

In case the weather should be thick, and New London church spire is not to be seen when bound to the westward through the Race, steer for the Gull lighthouse, keeping it to the northward of West, until New London lighthouse bears N. J E. ; then steer for it, leaving the Gull lighthouse at half a mile on the West or port side. When the Gull lighthouse bears S. by W., you may steer N.N.E. for the roads, making proper allowance for the tide, which is very strong.

In the winter season, when bound to or from New London, keep well to the West, should the wind be at N.E. and stormy. Your course, under such circumstances, for a good anchorage, is W.N.W. from the Gull, about 5 miles ; then haul up, should the wind continue at N.E., and steer N.W. until you get into 10 fathoms of water, muddy bottom. Anchor as soon as possible. Here you will be to the westward of Black Point, between it and Sarah's Reef. This is the best place to ride in, with a N.E. gale and thick weather, when the harbour of New London cannot be attained.

To run into and up the harbour in the deepest water, through the Western Channel, bring the lightvessel off Bartlett's Reef to bear W. by S. J S., and New London lighthouse N. f W., distant about 1£ mile, and steer N. J E., and it will carry you up in mid-channel in from 4J to 6 fathoms. In this course you will leave on your port hand the Rapid Rock and Goshen Reef, the Mercer's Rock, and Eleven-feet Rock, the Hog's Back, Melton's Ledge, and also several others close in, but which can be avoided by not running nearer than 250 yards to the shore; and on the starboard hand S.W. Ledge, Frank's Ledge, and the Black Rock. Most of them are pointed out by buoys. Vessels, after passing the lighthouse, are often embar- rassed by light winds, and, after rains, by a strong surface current setting out on the flood-tide.

To make up with a head wind. When outside the S.W. Ledge, keep the light- house between N.N.W. and N.N.E. , but do not bring the lighthouse to the eastward of N. i E. When up with the White Rock, before reaching Fort Trumbull, keep the Presbyterian spire open of Fort Point, by which you will clear Melton's Ledge, -which lies 150 yards to the eastward of Powder Island, and is marked by a buoy.

To run through Slack Ledge Channel, you may bring the Presbyteiian spire on with Fort Point, N. by W., or the eastern point of the harbour in one with Ocean House, N. J E., as either of these marks will lead through clear of Frank's Ledge.

From the eastward, keep the lighthouse just open to the northward of Smith's House, bearing N.W. by W. J W., and it will take you through the Pine Island Channel in from 4£ to 3 fathoms. When to the eastward of Seaflower spindle, keep the lighthouse open to the southward of Pine Island, and it will clear the Horse- shoe and Groton Long Point. When up with Pine Island, which is bold-to, there being 16 feet immediately off it, keep Long Rock open to the southward of a large stone house to the westward, and you will clear the North point of Black Ledge.

Between Goshen Reef and the shore is the Middle Channel ; it is narrow, but has a depth of from 13 to 18 feet. When running from the westward after passing Two- tree Island Channel, bring the large black rock, South of Two-tree Island, on with the first large tree to the northward of the house on Black Point, and you will go through the channel in 13 feet. When up with the buoy on Mercer's Rock, you may steer for the lighthouse, and pass into the harbour.

To go through the In-shvre Channel, the one between the Middle Channel and the

BARTLETT'S REEF. 61

shore, which lies about one-eighth of a mile from Goshen Point, and amongst the rocks bordering the coast, follow the above range (the large black rock South of Two- tree Island on with the first large tree, &c.), until Middle Rock is on with the black rock, near the East point of the harbour, which latter mark will take you through the channel in 8 to 10 ft. water. Pass 20 yards to the southward of Middle Rock, and then steer for the black rock until Fort Griswold Monument is open to the eastward of the lighthouse, when you may haul up the harbour, giving Quin- nipeag Rock (the rocks near the lighthouse) a berth of 100 yards. This channel is only to be followed when the wind is from the northward, and with a vessel drawing under 10 ft.

BARTLETT'S REEF, the South point of which is 3J miles S.W. from New London lighthouse, and the same distance E. by S. f S. from the extremity of Black Point, extends thence N.N.W. 1$ mile, or to within one- third of a mile of the shore, and afterwards carves round W.N.W. half a mile to the buoy on its north-western extremity, where there is also an inlet named Two-tree Island ; its greatest breadth is about a quarter of a mile. In many parts the reef dries at low water, and there are narrow swatchways between these parts with 2£ fathoms and upwards in them. Close-to all round the reef are from 4 to 7 fathoms water, and you will find 13 fa- thoms, fine sand and mud, at less than half a mile off its southern extremity.

A lightvessel, with "Bartlett's Reef" painted in tchite letters on each quarter, lies off the South end of the reef, in 11 fathoms water, on rocky bottom, and ex- hibits two fixed lights at the heights of 28 and 35 ft., which are visible at a distance of 10 miles ; during foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes.

Two-tree Island Channel, between the North end of Bartlett's Reef and the shore, has a breadth of one-third of a mile, and is from 4± to 13 fathoms in depth. When passing through it do not stand into the bay to the northward, as there are several sunken rocks scattered about in it, which would prove dangerous to a vessel striking thereon.

Niantic Bay, between Black Point and Millstone Point, is said to be one of the best harbours of refuge on the northern shore of Long Island Sound, while the wind is northward of West and East. When between Bartlett's Reef and Black Point run for a small island, named White Rock, near to which is a buoy, which lies half a mile westward of the eastern point, and as it is bold-to you may pass it on either side, and anchor to the North of it in 3| fathoms.

Black Buoy Reef, to the westward of Black Point, has only 9 feet water over it at nearly half a mile South of the Black Bay Rock. It is marked by a red spar buoy.

Hatchetfs Reef lies off Hatchett's Point, its eastern extremity being 2§ miles about W. by S. i S. from Black Point; here it is shoalest (5 ft.), and is about half a mile broad, with a red spar buoy on its S.E., and a black buoy on its N.E. extreme, thence it extends W.S.W., and joins the extensive sands fronting the entrance of Connecti- cut River, the water over it varying from 10 to 15 ft. in depth. It should not be approached nearer than into a depth of 12 fathoms.

The Connecticut River, which enters Long Island Sound to the westward of Hatchett's Reef, has thrown up such a formidable bar 2 miles to seaward, that no one, unless well and recently acquainted with it, should attempt to enter. The outer S.W. point of these flats is marked by a red spar buoy.

The greatest depth that can be ensured at low water over the bar is from 5 to 7 ft., but to maintain the latter depth up to Lynde Point requires the aid of a skilful pilot. The wharves of Say brook are lj mile within the bar, and on the north-eastern side

62 . BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

of Saybrook Point. On the days of full and change, high water takes place at 10k 1 7m ; springs range 5 ft., and neaps 2£ ft. ; the duration of both flood and ebb is about 6 hours each, allowing 36 minutes for still water.

Saybrook. - As a guide to vessels running for this place, a fixed light is exhibited from a white building erected on Lynde Point, on the West chop of the river; it is 80 ft. above the mean level of the sea, and may be seen at a distance of 15 miles. But the marshes to the westward of it raise so much mist that it is frequently ob- cured. A bell is rung in foggy weather at intervals of 12 seconds.

The old S.E. channel, which was abandoned in 1853, was found to have 7 feet water through it in 1873, when three spar buoys, painted with perpendicular stripes, were placed to mark it, and the following directions issued : -

From the entrance buoy, which is about three-quarters of a mile N.E. £ E. from can buoy No. 8, in the sound, bring Saybrook lighthouse to bear N.W. £ W. ; steer in on that course (passing close to the outer and middle buoys), keeping the beacon open to the South of the lighthouse, and bringing the latter nearly in range with, and a little to the South of, the Congregational Church in Saybrook village. When up with the inner buoy, placed about half a cable's length from the beacon, which will then be in range with Fenwick Hall, take a direct course (N.N.W.) for the railway depot at Saybrook.

For vessels bound in from the eastward, and for all vessels entering the Connecticut during north-easterly and south-westerly winds, the use of this channel offers supe- rior advantages.

There is good anchorage by bringing the lighthouse to bear from N.E. by E. to N.N.E, 1 mile distant, in 3 and 4 fathoms water, soft bottom ; and by hoisting a sig- nal can always procure a pilot, which is imperatively necessary.

Long Sand Shoal, to the westward of Saybrook bar, is narrow, and has but from 6 to 15 ft. over it,, the shallowest part being near the middle. Its eastern end (15 ft.) lies 1| mile S.S.E. \ S. from Saybrook lighthouse, and has a buoy, red and white in horizontal stripes, whence it extends about W. J S. 5 miles to the similar buoy on its -western extremity, from which Saybrook light bears E.N.E. 5 miles.

Cornfield Point, or Long Sand Liyhtship, is on its South side, near the centre of the Long Sand shoal, and about one-eighth of a mile from it, in 7£ fathoms, sandy bottom ; she is sloop-rigged, and shows a fixed light 40 ft. above the water, seen at a distance of 10 miles ; has a square cage- work day-mark at the mast-head, and is painted red. In foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate J minutes ; and from it Saybrook light bears N.E. £ N., Bartlett's Reef lightvessel E. by N., Little Gull Island light E. by S., Falkner's Island light W. £ S., and Plum Island light E.S.E.

A too near approach to Long Sand Shoal may be dangerous, as it is steep-to, and probably increasing so as to become connected at the N.E. end with the bar of Con- necticut River. It is also the more dangerous because the tide sets athwart it to the N.W. and S.E.

Should the lightvessel be off her station, to avoid the shoal the Falkner's Island light should not be brought to bear to the southward of W. f N., or the lightship on Bartlett's Reef to the southward of E. f N.

Between the western part of the Long Sand Shoal and the shore bank are several detached banks, the Cornfield Reef, Hen and Chickens, and Crane Reef. They are all marked by buoys, and lying out of the ordinary track of vessels, they need not be further particularized.

FALKNER'S ISLAND and Lighthouse. - Falkner's Island is 2J miles south- ward from the nearest point of the main at the small and shallow harbour of Guild-

NEW HAVEN. 03

ford, and bears from Little Gull Island light W. g N. 24i miles, and from Stratford Point light E. J N. 20A miles. A narrow reef of rocks extends from it nearly half a mile northward, the extremity of which has a black buoy upon it, and around Goose Island, a mile westward of Falkner's Island, there is likewise a dangerous reef run- ning northward also about the same distance. The South side of Fulkner's Island and the West side of Goose Island are steep-to, but on all others they will require to have a good berth given them. The white building on Falkner's Island, which has an elevation of 44 feet, exhibits &Jixed light, varied by flushes, every lj minute, at the height of 98 feet above the mean level of the sea, and visible 15 miles off. A fog- bell is struck at intervals of 15 seconds.

Kimberley's Reef, on which there are only 10 feet, is very small and steep-to, with 5 and 8 fathoms a short distance off all round. It lies \\ mile E. £ N. from Falkner's lighthouse, and 3 miles South from Hogshead Point, the nearest part of the shore.

The Thimbles, a cluster of islets against the North shore, are 5 miles W.N.W. of Falkner's Island. One-third of a mile south-westward of the Outer Thimble is Whea- ton's Reef, with a buoy on its northern end. Brown's Reef is southward of Wheaton's, and East Ledge south-eastward ; the latter bears S.W. by 6. £ S. three- quarters of a mile from the Outer Thimble.

Branford Reefh&s a gray yranite beacon on its northern part, and is dry at very low tides ; it is not of very great extent, but deep water of 7 and 8 fathoms is found at a short distance off it all round. Falkner's Island bears from it E. by S. nearly 7 miles distant, and New Haven light N.W. by AV. J W., 4| miles. Therefore, to pass clear on the southern, or outside of these rocks, do not bring Falkner's Island light- house southward of E. i S., or decrease the depth below 8A fathoms.

NEW HAVEN is about 12 miles westward of Falkner's Island. The harbour, open to the South, is exposed in that direction. The entrance is between Five Mile Point on the East, and Oyster River Point on the West.

A Lighthouse stands on Five Mile Point, showing a fixed light at 03 ft., visible 15 miles off. It has a fog- bell.

At lj mile North of the lighthouse is Fort Hale, on the eastern side of the harbour, and off this is the bar, having 20 to 11 ft. least water; within it deepens 13 to 17 ft., but shoalens gradually to the extremity of the Long Wharf, which projects two- thiids of a mile south-eastward from the town ; on the end of the Long Wharf is a fixed light at 21 ft.

The flats extend for above a mile and a half south-westward of Five Mile Point, and near their outer edge, and also near the leading mark given on the U.S. survey, on the port hand are the Luddinyton Rocks, If mile S.W. from the lighthouse, con- sisting of two sharp-pointed rocks 13 yards apart, with 12J ft. upon them; around them are 17 and 19£ ft. Nearly three-quarters of a mile N.N.W. from the Ludding- ton Rocks is a hard patch of 11 ft., and between this patch and the western shore are several others of o and 6 ft. water.

On the starboard hand are the S.W. Ledge, Quixe's Ledge, Adam's Fall, &c. ; therefore the lighthouse, which appears very conspicuous, should not be approached too near while bearing to the northward of N.E. by E. The S. W. Ledge is marked by a buoy, bearing from the lighthouse S.W. by S. £ S., one mile, and from the spindle on Quixes' Ledge W.S.W. half a mile. From 5 to 10 feet is the depth on this ledge at low water, and there are from 10 to 18 feet between it and Quixes Ledge. A lighthouse is building on S.W. Ledge. Quixes' Ledye bears from the lighthouse S. £ E., distant about five-eighths of a mile, and is marked by a spindle. Adam's Full, a shoal of 4 to 5 ft., is distant about half a mile from the lighthouse

(34 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

point, and is marked by a buoy, which bears from the lighthouse S.W. £ W., and from the spindle on Quixes' Ledge N.W. J W. about half a mile.

To enter, bring the lighthouse to bear E.N.E., and run for it until Fort Hale is in range with the larger of two church spires next each other in the village of Fair Haven. You will then be about half a mile from the light in 3 fathoms water, and but a short distance to the westward of the buoy on Adam's Fall Ledge. S. £ E. you will see the buoy on the S.W. Ledge, and still further to the eastward, the spindle on Quixes' Ledge.

Run into the harbour upon the above-mentioned range, Fort Hale and the Spire, until the lighthouse bears S. by E., when you will be in 2 fathoms, soft bottom. Then steer up a little to the westward of the head of Long Wharf, and you will soon deepen into 2£ and 2J fathoms. A little above Fort Hale is a buoy which you leave to the eastward, and five-eighths of a mile further up, another, which you leave to the west- ward. Soon after leaving this last buoy, you will shoal to 8 and 7 feet, carrying this depth up to the head of Long Wharf.

STRATFORD POINT Lighthouse. - This point is 8± miles south-westward from New Haven entrance ; the coast between offering no interest to shipping, except that a good berth should be given to it. The lighthouse is striped black and white, showing a light revolving once in every lj minute, at an elevation of 53 ft. above the mean level of the sea; and being visible at a distance of 12 miles, is of great use to all vessels beating up or down Long Island Sound. A fog-bell is struck, in thick weather, 4 blows at intervals of 10 seconds, then a rest of 30 seconds, and then 4 blows repeated.

The coast immediately westward of Stratford Point is fronted by an extensive hard sandy flat, the 3-fathom edge of which is in some places nearly 1£ mile off; therefore vessels should give the shore a good berth, more particularly as there are some 9-feet patches upon the bank, the outermost of which is marked by a red spar buoy.

Middle Ground and Lightvessel. - Nearly in the middle of the sound S. f W., 5j miles from Stratford Point light, is the Middle Ground, a dangerous shoal, with but 2 feet water on it. It extends two-thirds of a mile in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and is buoyed on its North and South sides ; it is also marked by a lightvessel, moored in 11 fathoms water, one-eighth of a mile S.W. of the shoalest part. She is painted straw colour, with " Stratford " painted in white letters on each side. She shows ttro fixed bright lights, elevated 32 and 40 ft. above the sea, and is also provided with & fog-bell and horn. A lighthouse is building on the Middle Ground.

BRIDGEPORT is at the entrance of a small river, 3± miles north-westward of Stratford Point, having the shore flat on the starboard hand. On the opposite side of the bay, in which is also Black Rock Harbour, is Fairfield Bar, a long, narrow spit, terminating at the Cows, on which is a beacon, 5£ miles westward from Stratfort Point.

Light. - In the entrance to Bridgeport, on the outer bar, is a white pile lighthouse showing a red fixed light at 56 ft., seen about 13 miles off. It is to be left to port in entering. The harbour is narrow and difficult to enter, but is much used by coasters. There is an outer and an inner bar, the least depth on which is 6 and 7 feet. It is necessary to have a pilot, but the channel up is marked by buoys and beacons. A bell is struck at intervals of 15 seconds in foggy weather. The lighthouse must be passed to the eastward, and not be approached within 200 ft.

It is high water, at full and change, at llh 2ro. Springs rise 8 feet 9 inches, neaps 5 feet 2 inches.

The entrance to this harbour is obstructed by two bars, the outer one of which has been deepened by dredging, and the cut, which is three-eighths of a mile long, is in-

BLACK HOCK HARBOUR - PEXFIELD'S REEF. 65

dicated by a buoy at each end in line with the deepest water. The inner or northern buoy bears from the outer buoy N. J E. distant three-eights of a mile.

To run in, keep these buoys in one, passing the lighthouse on your port hand and the inner buoy close upon the starboard bow, to pass the outer bar ; then keep a couple of cables' lengths south-easterly, or outside of the line of the N.E. and S.W. beacons upon the edge of the western flats, standing on across the inner bar in from 6 to 10 feet water. Haul up round the N.E. beacon, deepening to 16 feet, when a buoy which marks the N.E. point of the western flats, will bear N.W. by N., five-eighth* of a mile distant. Run up through the channel for the town, keeping this buoy a little on the port bow.

BLACK ROCK HARBOUR is 2 miles westward from Bridgeport. It is to the westward of Fairweather Island, and is used by small vessels as a place of refuge, there being from 10 to 12 feet least water within shelter.

Light. - Fairweather Island, which is low and narrow, has upon the South of it a lighthouse, 35 ft. high, showing & fixed light at 52 ft. above the sea, visible 12 miles. A reef, partly awash at low water, runs about a quarter of a mile to the southward from the lighthouse, and has on its extremity a red spar buoy. When you have rounded this buoy, on your starboard hand, the harbour will be farely opened, and you may run up N. £ E., in 8 to 10 ft.

At 1£ mile S. f W. from Black Rock lighthouse is the outer end of the Fairfield Bar, a reef running off 1£ mile in a S.E. £ E. direction from Shoal Point, and being dry at low water serves as an efficient protection to Black Rock Harbour against heavy seas from the southward.

PENFIELD'S REEF and Lighthouse. - At the extremity of this reef there are eome rocks awash at low water, named the Cows, and near them is another cluster, named Penfieltfs Reef. These rocks lie just within the 18-feet line, and have from 4 to 6 fathoms at a quarter of a mile to the eastward of them. There are two buoys on the south-eastern and southern sides of this danger, which will assist a vessel in ascer- taining its limits.

The lighthouse on Penfield Reef bears S. by W. J W. from Black Rock light, and S.W. 3 miles from Bridgeport Harbour light. The tower is white, and a red light, flashing every 5 seconds, is shown from it at an elevation of 64 feet. A cast-steel fog-bell is sounded, two strokes in quick succession every 30 seconds.

If coming into Black Rock Harbour from the eastward, when abreast of Stratford light (which pass at a distance of 2 miles to avoid a shoal spot South of it), bring Black Rock light to bear W.N.W., and steer W. by N. | N., keeping it on the star- board bow.

Enter midway between the light and beacon, passing the light until it bears N.N.E., then haul up N. | E. into the inner harbour. Give the lighthouse a berth of from one-eighth to one-quarter of a mile, and anchor in 2 fathoms, soft bottom, with the light bearing anywhere from East to S.S.E.

If coming from the westward, keep in not less than 4 fathoms, to avoid Pen- field's Reef, to the southward of the beacon, and the Cows to the northward. After passing the beacon, steer East until you bring Black Rock light to bear N. by W., then run for it until midway between the light and beacon, when you may steer as before.

There is safe and good anchorage between Bridgeport entrance and Fairweather light, If mile westward, in all winds from W.S.W., by the North, to E.N.E. Tke shore on the eastern side of the light is bold, having 3 fathoms almost close to it, and deepening gradually outwards.

The NORWALK ISLANDS, which are 5 miles in extent, and connected by U. S - Part I. K

I5« BOSTON TO NKW YORK.

slioals with each other and the main land, are 7 miles westward of Fairfield Bar. Shoal water stretches out for 1J mile to the East and S.E. of Cockenoe's Island, the easternmost ; the outer point of these is marked by a red spar buoy.

SHEFFIELD ISLAND and Ligh.tb.OU.se. - The island is the westernmost of the Norwalk Islands, and the lighthouse near its western end is about 16 miles -westward of that on Stratford Point. It shows a Jixed liyht varied by red flashes every minute, 40 ft. above the sea, visible 11 miles off, by which it may readily be distinguished from the light on Stratford Point.

A shoal with several sunken rocks upon it, some awash at low water, runs off from the lighthouse point \\ mile in a W. by S. f S. direction, and has a buoy upon its extremity. There is likewise a detached shallow patch of 4 fathoms, lying at If mile S.W. f S. from the lighthouse, which bears the name of Budd's Reef.

An excellent harbour exists on the northern side of Sheffield Island, where shelter in all weather may be had by vessels drawing 19 ft. of water and under. To run in, pass midway between the buoy on the extremity of the ledge extending from the "West end of Sheffield Island and Fish Island (a email low island covered with cedars lying near the main shore), from which the buoy bears S.E., distant about three- quarters of a mile. Steer E.N.E., shoaling gradually from 4 fathoms to 12 ft. on a rather irregular bottom, and anchor in 12 or 13 ft., soft bottom, with the light bearing S. by W.

CAPTAIN'S ISLANDS are two in number, named Great and Little, and lie above a mile off shore, at about 10 miles westward of the Norwalk Group. The islands are low, situated on a shallow flat, and between and around them are many rocks above and under water, especially on the north-eastern side of the East island, where they extend off 4 cables' lengths. High water at llh lm on full and change ; springs rise 8J ft., and neaps 7 ft.

Lighthouse. - The white lighthouse on the eastern end of the Great or West Island is 34 ft. high, and shows a fixed light at an elevation of 62 ft., visible in clear weather at the distance of 12 miles.

On the North side of the East Island there is excellent anchorage in from 2 to 4 ftrthoms, good holding ground, and shelter from all but south-easterly winds, which, when heavy, .send in some swell. The channel to it, between East Island and Fiat Neck Point, is from 4 to 8 fathoms deep, and half a mile wide. When running in, steer N.W., keeping midway between the two. When well within the line of the island and Flat Neck Point, with the lighthouse bearing S.W. J W., haul up to the westward, and anchor in 18 ft., sticky bottom, with the hummock on East Island bearing S.S.E.

Hence to Execution Rocks, the northern shore of the sound should be avoided, par- ticularly by strangers, for numerous rocks and reefs detached and extending from the land, to distances varying from one quarter to three-quarters of a mile, render it ad- visable to give it a good berth.

The SOUTH SHORE of Long Island Sound. - For the distance of 55 miles from its eastern point, the North shore of Long Island offers few points of interest to the sailor, and is entirely without harbour or shelter. The shore is tolerably bold- to for the first 4 miles westward of Oyster Pond Point, when a narrow sandy isthmus, Truman's Beach, is reached, which connects the eastern extreme, called the Oj'ster Ponds, to the rest of Long Island. A slender bay between Terry's Point and Rocky Point has a 6-ft. shoal off its entrance, three-quarters of a mile off the beach.

Horton's Point and Light is o£ miles beyond Rocky Point. It has a brick tower, cemented and whitewashed, 30 feet high, on its summit, which shows a Jixed light, elevated 110 feet, visible 18 miles off. To the westwaid of this a line of

HUXTINGTOX BAY. 67

banks, with large patches nearly awash, consisting of hard sand, stretches along the shore for 6 miles. The outer edge of them is two-thirds of a mile from the beach. As the water shoalens rather quickly towards this bank, caution should be used, and a large ship should not come into less than 12 fathoms when passing this part; but further westward this depth will not lead clear, as off JRoanoke Point and the Friar's Head, the latter 14 miles beyond Horton's Point light, a pro- jecting shoal extends 2| miles N.E. by N. from Friar's Head, and 1J mile from shore, having 12 feet water near its extremity, and 6 feet at three-quarters of a mile from shore; off the outer point of this shoal the depth is 19 fathoms within one-third of a mile.

At 4£ miles westward of Friar's Head is Herod's Point, and a shoal off this point extends nearly 2 miles from the land, with 6 feet least water on its outer point. To the East of this the depth is 14 and 15 fathoms within the line of its projection, so that vessels should not venture into less than 15 fathoms when near it.

The shore bank to the westward reaches to from three-quarters to 1 1 mile off the beach, and near the shore are Sill's Hock, the Old Sow Rock, and others, all out of the way of larger vessels passing through the sound. Mount Misery Point is If mile eastward from Old Field Point light, and a shoal extends three-quarters of a mile northward of it, having only 6 feet water on its outer point. The Mount Misery Shoal has a spar buoy, black and white striped, on its outer edge, which deepens sur- denly from 2i to 13 fathoms on the North, and from 3 to 18 fathoms on the N.E. part. The Stratford Point lighthouse is 4 miles N. £ W. from this buoy.

Old Field Point Lighthouse is a white tower, 34 feet high, with two dwel- lings adjacent on the low bluff. It shows a fixed light, elevated 67 feet, seen 13 miles off.

Eastward of Old Field Point, between it and Mount Misery Shoal, is the entrance to Setauket Bay, wherein are the villages of Port Jefferson and Setauket ; but the channel over the bar is both shallow and intricate.

Smithtown Bay lies to the westward of Crane Neck Point, which is 2 miles west- ward of Old Field Point. Here^the coast runs in 2£ miles to the southward to the entrance of Stoney Brook Harbour, the bar of which is shallow. The bars of Nisse- quaque River lie 4 miles W. by S. from that of Stony Brook, the intervening coast being fronted by a broad and shallow flat. Hence to Eaton's Neck Point the coast trends N.W. by W. J W. 7£ miles, and should not be approached nearer than 1 mile, for a flat of hard sand extends off to nearly that distance in several places. Crane Neck and Eaton's Points are the East and West extremities of Smithtown Bay, dis- tant 11 miles from each other.

HUNTINGTON BAY runs in 2 miles to the southward, between Eaton's and Lloyd's Necks, is above a mile in width, and in the fairway there are soundings of 5 and 6 fathoms, decreasing as you advance inwards to 4 and 3 fathoms, bood anchor- age may be had in any part, except with northerly winds. Its shores are lined with sandy flats. In the S.E. corner of the bay there is a narrow channel, about 60 fathoms in width, and 3 and 4 fathoms deep, leading in between the sand-bank ex- tending southward from East Beach Point and that fronting the mainland, into Cow Harbour or Northport Bay, wherein are from 9 to 4 fathoms, gradually shoaling as you proceed eastward round Little Neck Point towards the village of Northpurt, where there are only 4, 5, and 6 ft. water, or southward into Centrepnrt Inlet. In the S.W. corner of the bay are the entrances of two shallow inlets; that running in southward, and named Huntington Harbour, has 10, 8, and 6 ft. in it, but the channel way is not more than 50 fathoms in width ; and that running in westward, named Lloyd's Harbour, is much frequented by coasters, and may be entered by bringing the

68 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

point of West Beach to bear West or W. $ N. ; stand in on that direction, keeping the point close aboard, and anchor when within it.

Upon West Beach, and just within the extremity of this point, is a brick tower 34 feet high, showing ajixed light at 48 feet, visible 10 miles off; it is of much service to vessels seeking refuge in the night time.

High water on the days of full and change at llh; spring tides range 9* ft., and neaps 6J ft.

Eaton's Neck Point and Light. - On the eastern side of the entrance to Huu- tington Bay, there is a white lighthouse 56 feet high, showing a fixed light at an elevation of 142 ft., visible 18 miles off. In thick weather a steam fog syren is sounded, giving blasts of 9 seconds duration at intervals of 35 seconds. From the shore of the lighthouse a reef stretches out 4 cables' lengths north-eastward, with only 2 ft. of water on its outer part, the extremity of which is marked by a buoy moored in 14 feet 5 from this spot shoal water of 16 and 18 ft. extends nearly three-quarters of a mile further in a N.N. Westerly direction, the northern end being also pointed out by a black spar buoy, and half a mile still further north-westward, with from 4 to 7 fathoms between, lies a small rocky patch of 19 ft., with the lighthouse bearing from it S. by E. £ E., distant 1£ mile ; this has likewise a buoy, striped horizontally, on its northern side.

Lloyd's Point, the N.W. point of Lloyd's Neck, is the western entrance point of Huntington Bay. A rocky shoal extends three-quarters of a mile beyond it, the outer end of which is marked by a black spar buoy, which makes a near approach to it dangerous ; keep in 10 fathoms and upwards.

Oyster or Syosset Bay lies to the westward of Lloyd's Neck, its western part being Hog or Centre Island Point, off which there also runs a reef three-quarters of a mile beyond the point. A buoy lies just outside the rocks, but a sand spit projects some distance further.

Across the entrance to Oyster Bay a spit extends from Hog or Centre Island to -within 1 J cable of the eastern side against Lloyd's Neck, there being a depth of 8 to 11 fathoms in the narrow channel, which is thus close to the eastern side of the bay.

When inside the spit there is plenty of room and a good depth of water, which shoalens very gradually as you proceed southward up Cold Spring Harbour. In this harbour from 14 to 17 feet over a sticky bottom will be found to within 100 or 150 fathoms of either shore, but it is quite exposed to northerly winds, whereas Oyster Bay Harbour, an arm of the bay running in to the south-westward, forms a spacious and safe retreat from all winds, with good anchorage in 7J or 8 fathoms, soft sticky bottom ; smaller vessels may go further in and anchor in what depth they please. It is high water on full and change days of the moon at llh 4m ; springs range 9J feet, and neaps 5} feet.

At Oak Neck Point, the next westward of Hog Island Reef, commences a broad flat, which continues along the coast thence to Matinicock Point, the eastern point of entrance of Hempstead Bay, where its extremity is marked by a black buoy.

Hempstead Harbour is 6J miles westward of Oyster Bay, and runs in nearly 5 miles in a southerly direction, gradually narrowing and shoaling as you proceed to- wards the village of Hempstead or Roslyn, at its head. Being quite open to the north- ward it affords no shelter from wind or sea from that direction, except to such small vessels as are capable of entering Mosquito Cove on the eastern shore, or Hempstead Harbour in its upper part. In the outer part of the bay the depths are 4 or 5 fathoms, near the middle 3 and 2J fathoms, and just before you enter the latter harbour 4 and 3

EXECUTION ROCKS - EAST RIVER. 69

fathoms. When sailing iu give both shores a moderate berth, and bring-to where convenient. Near the eastern shore there is excellent anchorage.

Prospect Point is the western point of Hampstead Harbour ; it may be known by a remarkable rock on the shore, named the Pulpit, which, while it bears between S.E. southward, and S.W. by S., should not be approached nearer than to have Sand's Point light bearing S.W. or S.W. by S., so as to avoid the Old Hen Rock, and the shallow ground surrounding it and the point.

Sand's Point Lighthouse is two-thirds of a mile westward of Prospect Place, and exhibits a light flashing once every half minute, at an elevation of 53 ft., visible 13 miles off. When off this point you should make but short tacks, on account of the Execution Rocks, and also on account of the rocks which surround Sand's Point and the adjacent coast.

The EXECUTION ROCKS occupy a position right in the fairway of the sound, and extend N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. about a mile, and are one quarter of a mile across in the broadest part, where the lighthouse is placed, near the middle of the reef.

Lighthouse. - The light on Execution Rocks is & fixed white light, and being 54 feet above the sea, may be seen at a distance of 12 miles in a clear atmosphere. A Daboll fog trumpet is sounded every 10 seconds in foggy weather. From this light that on Sand's Point bears S. by E. £ E. nearly a mile. On each end of these rocks a buoy is placed, which, with the lighthouse, ought to guard vessels from running on them.

From midway between Sand's Point and Execution lights the course i« S.W. 2J miles for the South end of Hart Island, leaving the black buoy off Sand's Point and the Gangway Rock black buvy and Success Rock red buoy on the port hand. These rocks lie opposite the middle of Hart Island, and seven-eighths of a mile south-west- ward of Sand's Point lighthouse, the former, which is the outermost, having but 6 feet over it, and lying right in mid-channel. The South point of Hart Island has, or had, two single trees on it, and is bold-to.

Hence to Throg's Point the course and distance are S.S.W. 2£ miles, passing the black buoy on the end of the Stepping Stones Reef on your port hand, and stand over to the western side into 3 fathoms, being guided by the lead. Should the buoy on the Stepping Stones have drifted from its position, take care, when about halfway towards Throg's Point, not to bring the South point of Hart Island northward of N.N.E. At the extremity of Stepping Stones Reef the flood runs S.W. by S. about half a mile an hour, and the ebb in a contrary direction, not quite 1 mile. Give Throg's Point a berth of 2 cables' lengths when rounding it, and steer W. by N. towards Whitestone Point. A lighthouse is building on Stepping Stones Reef.

THROG'S POINT Light is fixed, elevated 66 ft., shown from the N.E. side of Fort Sehuyler, and visible 10 miles off in clear weather. A bell is struck four times per minute in foggy weather, which should be heard from 1 to 1J mile off,

EAST RIVER. - From Throg's Point westward vessels should maintain a mid- channel course, for, from the eastern point of Flushing Bay, a deep inlet on the port hand, a reef named Lawrence, extends nearly one-third the channel over, but this, as well as the other prominent dangers in this passage, has a buoy on its extremity. Keep along by the main or northern shore, and pass round to the northward of Kiker's Island and the North Brother, and when between Lawrence's Point and the sunken meadow, you will cross over the Middle Ground, whereon are soundings of 20 21, and 22 ft., rocky bottom, but deeper water nearer the island. Still continue in mid-channel up to the South point (Negro Point) of Ward's Island ; you will now

70 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

have arrived at Hell Gate, and very great care will have to be exercised to go ckar of the many rocks and shoals which are here scattered about.

HELL GATE. - This proverbially difficult channel should not be attempted except by those well acquainted with its complicated tidal currents. These and its other features have been well examined by the U.S. surveying officers, and the following f:re the general directions given by them. These and the chart must suffice. Since they were written some of the rocks have been lowered by blasting.

Previous to entering Hell Gate, the anchors should be got ready for letting go, and chains ranged and stoppered at 10 or 12 fathoms.

From the Southward. - Flood Tide. - The channel East of Blackwell's Island is the best. Vessels standing through the West channel run great danger of being carried by the current on to Middle Reef (extending N.W. from Flood Rock . "With a head wind, vessels may beat through Hell Gate, either by the East Channel, or with a commanding breeze, go round to the northward of Great Mill Rock. In the latter case, a stretch very near Hog's Back may be made with safety. With a fail' wind, small vessels may keep in the East Channel, and in the main body of the current. Large vessels must go through the Main Ship Channel. In the Main Ship Channel, steer with the Great Mill Rock well open on the starboard bow, and stand past it far enough to avoid the eddies, which extend about 30 yards to the northward of the rock ; steer then with the ripple of the Frying Pan one point on the port bow. After passing the Frying Pan, haul up for Negro Point, passing clear of it about 60 yards, then if a vessel keeps in the middle of the channel, the current will take her to the westward of the Middle Ground off Lawrence's Point.

In entering Hell Gate from the East side of Blackwell's Island, take the middle of the channel, avoiding the eddies about Bread and Cheese, and those about Hatter's Dock, which show very plainly ; pass Astoria Ferry about 50 yards off (on the star- board hand) and steer for the centre of Flood Rock ; this will put a vessel in the true flood tide when she is abreast Flood Rock. From Flood Rock steer for an old house on Ward's Island (then bearing about N.E. J E.) with poplar trees in front of it, until nearly up with the ripple of the Frying Pan, when haul up or keep away for Negro Point, and proceed as before directed.

Approaching Hell Gate through the West channel of Blackwell's Island, do not attempt to pass over to the Eastern Channel, unless the wind is fair and fresh, then stand across past Flood Rock until the old white building on Ward's Island opens to the right of it, when proceed as before directed.

With a light wind from the westward a vessel is at the mercy of the current, and her only chance to avoid being drifted over on Cram's Bank (S.E. of and opposite Negro Point), is to hug the Frying Pan, passing only one length to the southward of it, and tack in towards Negro Point when it bears North, stand on only long enough to get headway on the vessel, tack again and keep the mid-channel.

Entering Hell Gate (with no prospect of wind), anchor in Hallet's Cove (south- eastward of Blackwell's North point) to the northward of Thornburn's Dock, taking care not to let go the anchor with any headway on, as the ground is very rocky, and many anchors are lost at this place. In getting under weigh from Hallet's Cove, stand out due West from Thornburn's. Vessels frequently stand too near Hatter's Dock, when they invariably strike on Bald Headed Billy, a round, smooth rock, dry at low water. In case a vessel is caught in the eddies of Bread and Cheese, the only chance of avoiding the rocks is to stand through between Bread and Cheese and Blackweli's Point, a good 7-ft. channel at low water, and about oO yards wide.

When, owing to Hirht westerly or N.K. winds, vessels arc drifted within the in- fluence of the Pot eddies, they mutt inevitably go over on Cram's Bunk, and get on

HELL GATE. 71

shore to the Xorth of Woolsey's Bath House ; to avoid this, run into Pot Cove, and anchor. The current turns into Pot Cove opposite Woolsey's Bath House, and will enable a vessel to reach good anchorage.

Slack Water. - With a fair wind, take the East Channel ; with a head wind, allow room for tacking when near Flood Rock, as a slight under-current often makes vessels miss stays when they go upon the Gridiron. The longest tacks can be made by going to the northward of Great Mill Rock, but a vessel this way is in danger of losing the slack water, which never lasts more than 10 minutes, and generally not more than 6 minutes.

Ebb Tide. - With a fair wind, keep along the shore near Hallet's Point, to avoid the strength of the currents ; but after passing this point, keep mid-channel to avoid the rocks off the southern extremity of Ward's Island. Unless the wind, however, is very fresh, it is not advisable to attempt to pass through Hell Gate from the south- ward, after the ebb tide has been running 20 minutes. Abreast of Hallet's Point, vessels meet the strong current which sets them back over oil the Gridiron, and they must either go on shore or anchor at great risk.

From the Northward. - Ebb Tide. - The Main Ship Channel is the best at all times, as having deeper water and less current. Vessels must not give the Hog's Back too wide a berth, which might set them on Mill Reef (extending S.E. 130 yards from Great Mill Rock), or compel them to run the middle channel. Always stand close to Negro Point, about oO yards off.

With a fair wind. - Stand close to the Frying Pan Ripple, and give Great Mill Rock a good berth to avoid the eddies which extend out 3 or 4 vessels' lengths ; open the Little Mill Rock until Horn's Hook (the projecting point of Manhattan to the S.W.) and Gallows Hill, on the North end of Blackwell's Island, are nearly in range ; steer for Bread and Cheese (the rocks extending from the North point of Blackwell's Island) a little open on the starboard bow, this will bring a vessel into the Middle Channel tide ; take the eastern side of Blackwell's Island when the wind is light, and to reach it, when abreast of Negro Head, steer for Hatter's Dock (on the shore eastward of and opposite Blackwell's North point) ; if the tide is strong, take the western channel.

With the wind S. W., or dead ahead. - In entering the Gate, tack near Negro Point Bluff, and stand towards Scaly Rock (on the opposite side) so as to tack again one vessel's length outside the eddy ; the next tack will bring a vessel to windward of Negro Point ; make a short tack, which will clear the eddies of Pot Rock ; stand directly through the Main Ship Channel over towards the meadows, keeping Horn's Hook and the white house on Gibb's Point open ; the next tack will fetch between Great Mill and Little Mill Rocks, on the edge of the eddies ; tack with the Bread and Cheese and Gibb's Point in range, make a short tack towards Rynlander's Reef ; tack again off Rynlauder's Reef, when a vessel, meeting the Middle Channel tide, will be forced up into the wind, the current drifting her to windward clear of all danger.

With a good breeze, vessels may pass through the Middle Channel, having 19 ft. at low water, save two tacks, and avoid the danger of Rynlander's Reef and eddies. After passing the Frying Pan, stand for the North end of Little Mill Rock, until within 60 yards of it, when steer for the South end, and pass within 20 yards of it, tacking before Horn's Hook and the white house on Gibb's Point are in range.

Vessels passing through Either the Main Ship Channel or Middle Channel, take the channel West of Blackwell's Island, the winds being more steady in that direc- tion. Go pretty close to Horn's Hook, always avoiding the eddies. After pacing

72 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Horn's Hook, keep as near the middle of the channel as possible, and never shut in one point of land with another.

Take the same course with a southerly wind, but with a northerly wind cross over to the East side of BlackwelPs Island, giving the Bread and Cheese a wide berth. The greatest danger frqra the eddies of Bread and Cheese is on the ebb.

The Eastern Channel is only safe with the wind northward and westward, the line of true current being very narrow. Shave Ballet's Point very closely, and steer with Flood Rock open on the starboard bow ; a vessel will apparently be setting upon the rock, but when her bow gets within the influence of the true current, it will put her head directly through the channel. Vessels always get on the Gridiron from those on board not making up their mind in time which channel to take ; in light winds steer for Hallet's Point when abreast of Pot Rock, and for the Main Ship Channel when abreast of the Frying Pan.

With the flood tide and a fair wind go either around Great Mill Rock or through the Middle Channel.

Tides. - There is a difference in the tides and tidal currents between Governor's Inland and Negro Point (Ward's Island), at the eastern entrance to Hell Gate, of about 2f hours. Between this point and Throg's Neck, near which the easterly and westerly currents meet, the change is small.

At Hell Gate it is high water on the full and change days of the moon at 10h 10m ; springs range 6^, neaps 4j ft. At Throg's Neck at llh 20m ; springs range 9J, and neaps 6 ft. And at New York (Governor's Island) at 8h 19m ; springs range 5|, and neaps 3| ft.

The main body of both tides passes on the East side of Ward's Island ; off Negro Point Bluff the change from ebb to flood takes place suddenly. With the ebb, which runs to the westward, the tidal current passes close to Pot Rock ; the slack water lasts only a few minutes. South-eastward of the Flood Rock the current of ebb, which is deflected from Hallet's Point, and recoiling from the Gridiron, makes numerous eddies affecting its velocity ; its force is lost in the whirls, but the west- ward motion of the main body is uniform ; its greatest velocity is very close to Flood Rock - too close for a vessel to lie safely. Between Great Mill Rock and Ward's Island the ebb current runs a direct course, but that of the flood has numerous, though not violent eddies ; the direction of the ebb from Pot Rocks is on to the Gridiron ; the current of the flood tide is very weak, the main stream passing to the southward of the Flood Rock. Off the edge of Rynlander's Reef the slack water lasts 20 minutes j the flood tide is very weak, and the eddies frequent ; the ebb is both direct and strong. In the Middle Channel of Hell Gate the current of ebb is broad and rapid, with numerous eddies. In the channels of BlackwelFs Island, the currents of both flood and ebb are strong and direct.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS for Long Island Sound.

In sailing from Newport, Rhode Island, to a proper berth off Point Judith, your course and distance will be S.W. by S. for 3 leagues ; and from thence towards the Little Gull Island lighthouse, W. by S. 8 leagues, and W. by N. 2 leagues ; thus, when you get about 6 miles to the S.W. of Point Judith, you will bring the light- house at the North end of Block Island to bear S. £ W., and in the direction of the reef which runs from the northern part of the island. Proceeding thence about 6

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 73

leagues, you will leave Watch Hill Point lighthouse and Fisher's Island on your northern side, but be careful to avoid the rocky reef which extends from the S.W. end of the island, outside which you will see the Race Rock, to the S.W. of which is the Valiant Rock ; the Little Gull Island will be on your port side ; having passed these you will fairly have entered the Sound. The distance from the Race Rock to the Little Gull light is 3 miles ; but nearly in a line between Fisher's Island and the Little Gull is the Valiant Rock, which must be carefully avoided.

In proceeding from the Gull Island light up the Sound, steer W. J N. for about 8 leagues, and it will bring you up within a mile to the southward of Falkner's Island lighthouse ; observe, in running the above course to give the Long Sand Shoal a berth ; it lies south-westward of Saybrook, 2 miles from the land, and is a narrow shoal of 4 miles in length, marked by a buoy at each end. From thence a W.S.W. course for 8 leagues, will carry you to a berth off Old Field lighthouse ; here steer W. £ N., 5 leagues, and having passed Eaton's Neck lighthouse, a W. by S. ^ S. course will take you up to Sand's Point light ; then leave this light on your port side, and the Execution Rocks lighthouse on your starboard. In steering the above W. i X. course from Old Field Point to Eaton's Neck, be careful when making the latter point of the shoals lying to the northward ; that stretching from the point has a buoy upon it, at about three-quarters of a mile from the point. The next is a detached shoal of 3 ft. and marked by a buoy, about 1£ mile from the point; be- tween these two buoys there is a channel of 8 fathoms depth. N. by E. 2| miles from the point, is a shoal of 3J fathoms, with 8 and 14 fathoms between it and the former shoal of 3 ft. If when up to Falkner's Island you should prefer going to the northward of the Middle Ground, steer as recommended elsewhere ; and you may, if you think more prudent, adopt the courses given to the southward of the Middle Ground.

If a ship could have a fair departure from the middle of the Race, and is obliged to run in a dark night or thick weather, the best course would be West, 15 leagues, towards Stratford light, as it would afford the largest run on any one course, and if made good, will carry you 2 miles South of Stratford Point light in 6 fathoms water, and 3J miles North of the Middle Ground ; on this course you will leave Saybrook, Falkner's Island, and New Haven lights on your starboard hand, and Plum Island on your port hand ; you will pass 3 miles South of Falkner's Island in 17 fathoms water. When up with Stratford light, and it bears North, 2 miles distant, your course to Sand's Point light is W.S.W. £ W., 11 leagues.

Should you wish to anchor under Falkner's Island, there is good holding ground on the East or West tide in 2| or 3 fathoms, but the best place, with the wind from the West, is close to the N.E. point of the island, the lighthouse bearing S.W. by S., in 2£ fathoms North from the island a narrow shoal puts off a quarter of a mile, and is bold-to ; but you are to the North of it when the centre of Goose Island bears S.W. by W., and when the light bears S E. by E. you may run for it and anchor.

The course from Sand's Point light to Hart Island is S.W., and the distance about 2J miles ; to the West of this there is good anchorage for vessels of any size. If a ship, in making these courses good, should be under the necessity of turning to wind- ward, they must be careful to avoid two rocks, one called the Gangway Rock, the other the Success Rock ; the former bears W. 281 S. from Sand's Point lighthouse, distant a mile, having a black spar buoy floating perpendicularly, in 19 ft. water, upon it ; the other bearing N.W. by N. from the East bluff of Cow Bay, distant half a mile, on which an iron spindle is erected. On Gangway Rock, which tapers to a point, there is only 6 ft. water, making it verv dangerous ; but Success Rock is r. X. - Fart I. L

74 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

dry at low water. Between the two is a channel with 2£ fathoms in it ; they bear from each other N. 40° W. and S. 40° E., being distant one-third of a mile.

The course from Hart Island to Throg's Point light is S.S.W., about a league ; taking care to avoid the Stepping Stones, which lie on your port hand, and have a black spar buoy upon them, in 19 ft. water; they are steep-to, while the soundings on your starboard side are regular to 3 fathoms. In passing Throg's Point light, do not haul up until you have passed it at least one-eighth of a mile ; and when the light beats N.W. steer West, which will carry you in mid-channel. A sJioal of 17 feet extends S.S.E. from Throg's Point ; but, by following the above directions, that will be easily avoided. From Throg's Point to Hunt's Harbour the course is West, observing to keep in mid-channel.

From Old Field Point light to Eaton's Neck light the bearing and distance are W., northerly, 13 miles ; Crane Neck is 2 miles to the westward of Old Field Point, and the land between it and Eaton's Neck forms Smithstown Bay, in which the water shoals gradually from 12 to 3 fathoms. There is a reef running from the northern part of Eaton's Neck, to the distance of half a mile, as noticed previously, near the edge of which are 6 and 5 fathoms. From Eaton's Neck the northern sandy point of Lloyd's Neck bears W. £ S., distant 4 miles ; between them lies the deep bay of Huntington, where a ship of any size may obtain anchorage, only keeping the eastern shore on board ; the entrance is easy, and the ground good.

Within Lloyd's Harbour on the West, and Cow Harbour on the East, are from 4 to 3 fathoms water, with a bottom of mud. Here N.E. winds, blowing fresh, fre- quently swell the rise of the tides, which commonly average from 7 to 12 ft. On the western side of Lloyd's Neck is Oyster Bay, the entrance to which is narrow ; when going in here, keep nearer Lloyd's Neck until you have passed the tail of the Middle, this being a sandy flat, which runs from Hog Island, on the western side, to the distance of 180 fathoms ; when fairly within it the bay is clear, and the an- chorage good throughout.

From Lloyd's Point to Metinicook Point, the course and distance are W.S.W. J W., 7 miles ; and from Metiuicook Point to Sands Point light, the course is nearly W.S.W., and the distance 5 miles ; between these two last points is Hempstead Bay, in which is good anchorage, keeping the eastern shore on board. At three-quarters of a mile to the northward of Sands Point lighthouse are the Execution Rocks.

LONG ISLAND. - South. Coast. - When Block Island bears North, distant 4 or 5 leagues, you cannot see any land to the northward or eastward, but as you ap- proach the island you see Montauk Point to the westward, making a long low point, on which is the lighthouse. In sailing W.S.W., you will make no remarkable object on Long Island, its southern shore from East to West appearing at a distance like islands, except Shinnicock and Fire Island lighthouses. From Fire Island light a shoal extends South three-quarters of a mile, and joins the bar, which is very dangerous, as it shoals suddenly from 8 to 6 fathoms, then directly on the shoal, -when the flood tide sets very strong. It is not safe to approach the shore nearer than 2 miles, \vhen the light bears to the E. of N. To the eastward of the light the shore is bold ; the bar is subject to change, and has 7 ft. of water on it. When Fire Island light bears North in 10 fathoms water, you may steer W."by S., which will carry you up with Sandy Hook light.

Shinnicock Bay. - There are a few inlets on the South side of the island. The first one of any importance is Shinnicock Bay, about 34 miles to the westward of Montauk Point.

The LIGHTHOUSE is erected on Pondquogue Point on the North side of the bay, in lat. 40° 50' 57', and long. 72° 29' 55". The building is of brick. 150 ft. in

FIRE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE. 75

height, and 160 ft. above the sea, exhibiting a fixed light, visible 20 miles. This light is 1 mile North of the outer or ocean beach, 35 miles to the eastward of Fire Island lighthouse, and 32£ miles to the westward of Montauk Point lighthouse.

Fire Island Inlet. - The next place is Fire Island Inlet. Fire Island Inlet is navigable for vessels drawing 9 ft. water ; it is subject to change, and those who are acquainted with its entrance are guided by the breakers when entering. The shoal off Fire Island lighthouse extends about a mile from the shore, and a mile from where the lighthouse stands. It is bold-to on the eastern side, having 6 fathoms close to it.

FIRE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE is on the E. side of the inlet, in lat. 40° 37' 53", and long. 73° 12' 51". The tower is built of yellow brick, 150 ft. in height, and 166 feet above the sea, and exhibits a revolving light every minute, visible 22 miles. This lighthouse is 37 miles from the highlands of Navesink lights, 31 miles from Sandy Hook lightvessel ; 35 miles from Great West Bay light, and Ql~ miles from Mon- tauk Point.

Gilffo, New, and Hog Island Inlets are all barred harbours, having very little water. The channel of New Inlet, into South Oyster Bay, is marked by a spar buoy, painted with white and black perpendicular stripes, and surmounted by a cage, placed outside the bar, in 5 fathoms at low water ; and a spindle on shore, in range with the cupola on Woodsbtirgh Hotel, painted with red and black horizontal stripes, and having a day-mark on top in the shape of a barrel.

Rockatcay Inlet is about 9 miles N.E. of Sandy Hook. This bar is subject to change, and extends 2 miles from shore ; the depth on the bar is about 12 ft. at low water. A striped spar buoy is placed outside, and one inside, to mark the channel over the bar, which, owing to its shifting nature, should only be used by those ex- perienced.

Should you make Block Island, bearing North of you, distant 5 or 6 leagues, as before observed, you cannot see any land to the northward or eastward ; but as you near the island you will see Montauk Point to the westward, making a long low point, running out eastward, on which is the lighthouse ; steering from hence about W.S.W. j W., Long Island will, when at a distance, appear broken, like islands; and when you bring Fire Island light to bear North, in 15 fathoms, a W J N. course will carry you up to Sandy Hook. The quality of the bottom is various, viz., yellow, red, brown, blue, and grey sand, within short distances.

You will see the Highlands of Navesink before you come in sight of Sandy Hook. On the Highlands, which is the most remarkable land on that shore, two lighthouses are erected.

When bound to New York, should you happen to make the land to the southward, and fall in with Cape May (on which is a lighthouse, exhibiting a revolving light), the greatest caution is necessary, to avoid the shoals near the cape, as well as the 5- fathom bank lying in the parallel of the cape, and 15J miles to the eastward of it, having only 12 ft. water on its shoalest part. In thick weather, come no nearer this part of the coast than 20 or 19 fathoms ; but when to the northward of 39% you may safely approach to 13 or 14 fathoms.

As a number of vessels have been lost, bound to New York, from heaving-to with their heads on shore, we cannot too strongly urge on the ship-master the necessity, if he is in doubt of his position, of heaving-to with his head offshore.

76 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

NEW YORK HARBOUR.

The CITY of NEW YORK, one of the chief commercial places in the world, v» situated on the South end of Manhattan or New York Island, at the confluence of the- Hudson or North River, and a strait called the East River, which connects Long Island Sound with the harbour of New York. It is the capital of the State of New York, and in population, commerce, and wealth, the largest city in America.

The first perfect chart of the harbour was published in 1845, by the U.S. Coast Survey. New editions of this chart show extensive changes in the banks and chan- nels in the entrance.

The system of lighting and beaconage is complete, and is quite sufficient to ensure safety with ordinary caution, but it must be evident that exact bearings and direc- tions cannot be depended on for any length of time. Therefore what follows refers to the existing condition of the channels and buoys, and must be received with some caution in the future.

Lights, &c.

The HIGHLANDS OF NAVESINK are frequently the first land discovered on arriving on the coast, and may be seen 8 leagues off. When first seen they appear like an island, rather level on the top, except some irregular risings on the West or inland side. The highest point is Mount Mitchill, 282 feet. They form the S.E. angle of New York Harbour. Tompkins Hill, on Staten Island, near the Narrows-, is 307 ft. high, and Hempstead Hill, on Long Island, East of the entrance to New York, 319 ft.

HIGHLAND LIGHTS. - The elevated lighthouses which stood on the Highlands of Navesink, were first lighted up in the evening of the 21st June, 1828. The two lighthouses are built of reddish gray granite, situated 100 yards apart, the northern one being in lat. 40° 23' 45", and long. 73° 58' 51". They are each 53 ft. in height, and 248 ft. above the sea, exhibiting fixed lights, visible 25 miles each. The bear- ing and distance between the northern or fixed light and the lighthouse on Sandy Hook are N. \ W. 4 miles.

SANDY HOOK, extending in a N. by W. direction nearly 5 miles from the Navesink lights, has towards its North end a lighthouse 77 ft. in height, and shov- ing a fixed light at 90 ft. above the sea. At about 2 cables' lengths W.N.W. from it is the telcgrajih, a small white tower. The light may sometimes be discerned from aloft at the distance of 10 leagues. It is generally visible 15 miles. This light is intended to mark the entrance to the channel.

Beacon Lights. - In addition to the above light, there are two beacon lights on Sandy Hook. The N.E. beacon light is situated on the North point of the Hook, two-thirds of a mile N. by W. from the principal light, and the S.W. beacon on the bay side of Sandy Hook, at a quarter of a mile N.W. of the principal light. These two lights are elevated 35 ft. each, visible 10 miles. The lighthouses are coloured white, and there is a fog horn at the northern one. When the West beacon light is obscured by the screen, it marks the outer edge of the bar ; and when just clear to the northward of Sandy Hook lighthouse it marks the turning-point round the S.W. spit into the Main Ship Channel.

FLOATING LIGHT. - Off Sandy Hook is a lightship of about 360 tons burden, showing two lights, which were changed to red iitjhts in 1873, each elevated

NEW YORK HARBOUR. - LIGHTS, ETC. 77

45 feet above the sea. In 1868 the berth of this float was 6f miles W. by S. from Sandy Hook light, and the same distance W.N.W. from the Highlands lights, in 14 fathoms water. She is also provided with a bell of 800 pounds weight, to be tolled in thick weather, alternately with a fog horn.

A liyhtvessel was placed, in September, 1874, on the South side of the South channel, to mark the wreck of the Scotland. She was placed in 7 fathoms water, W. -k N., 4 miles from Sandy Hook lightvessel.

Within the harbour of New York there are six leading lights, intended as ranges for the different channels.

Gedney's Channel Lights, situated near Point Comfort, 5 miles West of Sandy Hook. These lights are two in number ; the front one, Bayside beacon, on the Jersey shore, is on the keeper's house in a turret, and is of a white colour, with the top of the lantern black, being 45 ft. ahove the sea. The rear light, Wilson's bea- con, is in a tower 76 ft. above the sea. These are both fixed lights, visible 12 and 14 miles respectively, and form a xange W. by S. from the inside of the bar to the S.W. spit.

Swash Channel Lights. - These lights are on Staten Island, one near Elm-tree Station, and the rear one at New Dorp. The front light is elevated 62 ft. above the sea. This lighthouse is painted with two white and one red horizontal bands, with the roof of the lantern red. The rear light is on the keeper's dwelling in a turret, 180 ft. above the sea, and is painted red. These lights form a range to N.W. for the Swash Channel from outside the bar to main channel, above Romer stone beacon ; both fixed lights, visible 14 miles each.

Main Ship Channel Lights are two in number, and situated on the Jersey shore, near the beach, and Chapel Hill, N.W. by W. 3J miles from the Highland lights. The northern light, or Conover beacon, bears from Sandy Hook light S.W. 3^ miles, to be used after turning the S.W. spit buoy. The front light is in a tower 60 ft. above the sea, and is painted with two white and one red horizontal bands ; roof of lantern red. On each side of this, to distinguish it when the ground is covered with snow, black frames are placed. The Conover beacon is 3J miles from the S.W. spit buoy.

The rear light is shown on Chapel Hill at 224 ft. above the sea. The front of the dwelling, which supports the light-tower, shows from the direction of the main channel of the bay a surface of 25 ft. by 40 ft., painted white. Frames of the same dimensions, each 25 ft. by 40 ft., and covered with boards, are shown on each end of the dwelling, and are coloured black.

The surface of the entire front is therefore 25 ft. by 120 ft., and shows ichite be- tween two black surfaces. The distance from the S.W. spit buoy to Chapel Hill beacon is 5 miles.

These two lights are situated 1J mile apart, and are both fixed lights, visible 12 miles each. After turning the S.W. spit, by keeping these two lights in range, you run in mid-channel until Robin's Reef light is open with the light at the Nar- rows ; keeping them open clears the West Bank. Especial attention is called to the distances of these day-marks from the S.W. spit buoy, and the difficulty of distin- guishing them unless the day is moderately favourable.

Fort Tomkins Light, Staten Island. - There is a white lighthouse near to Fort Tomkins, which marks out the western point of the Narrows ; it has a fixed light, 89 feet above the level of the sea, and visible 15 miles. There is a very strong fort and barracks in the rear of Fort Tomkins.

At Fort Lafayette, on the opposite side of the Narrows, a fog bell is established, sounding alternately one blow and two blows at intervals of 20 seconds.

78 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Robins Reef Light stands 3| miles northward of Fort Totnkins Light. It is a white stone tower built on the reef, and marks the western edge of the channel up to the city, and into Newark Bay through Kill Van Kull. It is a fixed light, visible 12 miles, 66 ft. above the sea. It has a fog bell.

Princes Bay Light. - This lighthouse, which is painted white, stands near the S.W. end of Staten Island, on the West side of Princes Bay, bearing from Sandy Hook light W.N.W., distant 10 miles, and West from the Knoll buoy, and is in- tended to guide vessels to Perth Amboy and Raritan River, and will serve as a guide to vessels from mid-channel buoy at the entrance to Gedney's Channel to the line of main channel range lights on Point Comfort, and to the line of Swash Channel range lights at Elm Tree and New Dorp on Staten Island. The lighthouse is 33 feet in height, and at 106 feet above the sea exhibits a fixed light, varied by a flash every two minutes.

At Fort Columbus, the N.W. point of Governor's Island, a. fog bell is sounded.

HOMER BEACON. - A stone beacon, 25 ft. high, is erected on the N.W. point of the Romer Bank, and 9 ft. above the water. It was intended as a guide for the Swash Channel ; but being placed at the wrong end of the shoal, vessels bound in will infallibly get on shore if they run for it. It bears from the light at the Narrows S. 15° E., and from Sandy Hook N. 10' W. There is an iron beacon S.E. of it.

The channels leading into the harbour are as follow : -

The FALSE HOOK CHANNEL, running along the shore of Sandy Hook on the West, and the outer Middle Ground, the Oil Spot, and the False Hook Shoals on the East. The direction is to the West of North, and it is marked by spar buoys.

The SOUTH CHANNEL lies outside the above-named shoals. It leads up to the Swash Channel, and the leading mark through both is the two lights on Staten Island in one, as above mentioned. It is marked by caw buoys.

GEDNEY'S CHANNEL, discovered by Lieut. T. R. Gedney, U.S. N., is to the North of the last, and is marked by nun buoys,

The SWASH CHANNEL, a continuation of the South Channel, as before mentioned, runs between Flynn's Knoll and the Dry Romer, marked by the stone and iron beacons, and is marked by can buoys.

The EAST CHANNEL, to the northward of the Dry Romer, is marked by spar buoys.

The FOURTEEN-FEET CHANNEL, still farther North, is but seldom used.

The MAIN SHIP CHANNEL, into which these lead, is marked by NUN BUOYS.

Tides.

H. M.

It is high water, on the full and change days, at Sandy Hook (Corrected

Establishment) at 7 29

But the stream of tide continues to set in, at the rate of 2 knots, until . . 9 0

FT. IX.

Mean rise and fall of spring tides 6 3

. neap tides , 3 9

Rise of highest tide, observed May 30, 1836, during a heavy E.N.E. gale . 9 1

H. M.

At New York, at Governor's Island, the Corrected Establishment is . .., 8 19

Mean rise and fall of spring tides 5 8

. neap tides 3 8

The vertical rise of tide is sometimes checked by the westerly or north-westerly winds, so as to lower the water on the bar to 3| fathoms. Easterly or north- easterly -vrinds frequently raise it to 5 fathoms.

GEDNEYS CHANNEL. 79

The flood sets strongly to the westward from the S.W. spit, until above the Upper Middle, whence it runs up in the channel-course to the Narrows.

The tide, during the last quarter-ebb, sets from North or Hudson's River, around Fort Point, and flows up the East River, at the rate of 3 knots ; whence, with a like velocity, it returns two hours before the North River high water time. This affords great convenience to ships in shifting their berth from one river to the other. Ships of war may, during the summer season, ride in either river, in the stream ; in the winter they haul-to, or moor between the wharfs. The twelve-feet ledge off the town, and the sunken wrecks and chevaux-de-frize, are shown by the ripple of the tide.

Variation of the compass in 1875 is 7° W.

The times of high and low water are very nearly the same all the way from Dela- ware River to Block Island and South of Nantucket. Consequently, vessels bound to New York, and making the land in the vicinity of either of these places, and in sail- ing thence in the customary routes towards Sandy Hook, they will have the same succession of tides, within some 15 minutes, as if they remained off these points. As the flood tide sets in generally to the northward and on shore, and the ebb the con- trary, they will know by the time that elapses from their departure, and the period of tide at which they started, what tidal currents they may expect to meet with aa they approach New York.

Anchorage may be had in Sandy Hook Bay. When as far in as the point of the Hook where the East beacon stands, haul into the bay S.'W., giving the Hook a berth of half a mile, until the lighthouse bears East or E. by N., when you may anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Pilots. - New York pilots generally board vessels from the southward between De- laware River and Barnegat Inlet, at from 10 to 80 miles off shore ; and those from the eastward between Nantucket Shoals and Fire Island lighthouse, at from 10 to 15 miles from shore. Boats having pilots on board are always found near Sandy Hook. In approaching New York Bay in thick weather, or in the nighttime, without a pilot, you should bring-to in 12 or 15 fathoms, unless the weather is threatening from the eastward, when it is most prudent to avoid a lee shore.

Directions. - Having made the lightvessel, which should be the object sought for, especially by a stranger, and still without and waiting for a pilot, be careful when tacking towards either the Jersey or Long Island shores not to decrease your water below 10 fathoms. Should no pilot be obtainable and it becomes advisable to run in, then the following directions will be found of service, bearing in mind that the only channels recommended to those ignorant of the navigation are Gedney's and the Main Ship Channel, in which are 23 ft. at mean low water, or the South and Swash Channels, with 21 and 17 ft. respectively.

Gedneys Channel. - Entering by Gedneys* and the Main Ship Channels, steer N.~W. 5 \V. from the lightvessel for the black and white perpendicular-striped nun buoy at the entrance of the former, then W. by N. 1J mile, or till the two range lights near Point Comfort come in line, bearing about W. by S., when you must haul up for them on that bearing, and continue till the two Main Channel lights, just westward of the Highlands of Navesink, are brought in range, nearly S. by W., which will also be shown by the main light on Sandy Hook being open South of the

* A stranger, when up with the buoy at the entrance of Gedneys Channel, may cross the bar in 24 feet water by bringing the East Beacon on Sandy Hook in line with the inner (or "Wilson" s) light at Point Comfort, nearly W. f S. When the water deepens again to 4 fathoms, steer to the northward, so as to bring Gedneys range lights on, to pass th« Hook.

80 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

West Beacon. Steer now, with these latter lights in line over the stern, about N. by E., which will lead up towards the Narrows, clear of West Bank and Cravens Shoal. As soon as Robins Reef light bears N. by W., shape a course for it, passing in mid-channel through the Narrows, and when about three-quarters of a mile from the lighthouse haul up N.E. by N. for the city.

South Channel. - Entering by the South and Swash Channels, steer for the light- vessel W. by N., until the Elm Tree or Swash Channel range lights on Staten Island, which can be seen outside the bar, come in a line bearing about N.W. | N., then steer towards them till the red can buoy (No. 8), which marks the " Upper Middle,'' is passed, or till the Main Ship Channel range lights (in one, nearly S. by W.) is on, when haul up on that range towards the Narrows, and proceed as before. Vessels drawing more than 17 feet should not be taken through the Swash Channel on the above range at low water.

Having proceeded on the line of the Elm Tree lights from the South Channel bar to where the Point Comfort lights are in one, the direction of the latter may be fol- lowed, and the Main Channel lights brought in line as before, if drawing too much -water to pass through the Swash Channel.

The False Hook Channel, safe though narrow, runs along the eastern side of Sandy Hook, between it and the Outer Middle, the Oil Spot, and False Hook Shoals. From 15 to 18 ft. of water can be carried through at the distance of one quarter of a mile or so from the shore ; but as no good ranges can be given, this passage should only be attempted by those acquainted. The shoalest part of the shoals, namely 12 feet on Oil Spot, lies three-quarters of a mile off shore, and S.E. by E. j E. from the main lighthouse on the Hook.

The East Channel has its entrance about one mile northward of Gedneys, and runs in nearly parallel to that and Swash Channel, being separated from them by the Dry Romer, &c. ; it is safe for vessels of light draught, but is very little used, as the ranges are distant and uncertain, and the East Bank shoals up very sud- denly.

The Fourteen-Feet Channel, about 2§ miles from the shore of Coney Island, is narrow, winding, and without leading marks or buoys. It is the northernmost of the channels into New York Bay, and but very seldom used.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. - The Gulf Stream, by its high temperature, gives the first warning of an approach to the coast. In lat. 38j° N. it is nearly 360 miles from the land, measuring on a parallel of latitude, and immediately after passing through it the temperature will be observed to fall. There is also a fall of tem- perature on striking soundings, which will indicate the time when the deep sea lead ought to be used. AVith the decrease of soundings the colour of the water will change, - as from a dark blue in a depth of 150 fathoms the colour alters to a light blue in 50 fathoms, which again becomes of a greenish tint as the coast is approached.

Soundings. - Up to the 20-fathom curve or line they follow the general form of the shore, and between 80 and 100 fathoms the water suddenly deepens. The 20- fathom line is 31 miles from Cape May, in an East by South direction, but less than 7 miles from Montauk Point. A depth of 20 fathoms off the East point of Long Island is therefore too near the land, unless with a commanding wind ; while 20 fathoms off Cape May is at a safe distance from the shore.

The latitude of a ship's place is usually better known than the longitude, but the latter is most important on approaching this coast, and can be determined approxi- mately from the latitude, in connection with the distance, curves, or lines of depth.

East of the entrance to the Delaware, the bottom in 100 fathoms is mostly dark

SOUNDINGS. 81

-gray sand mired with broken shells. To the North of this parallel it is mostly green and blue mud mixed with sand.

Eastward of Delaware Bay, the bottom, between 100 and 40 fathoms, is most fre- quently sand and broken shells ; inside of 40 fathoms, gray or yellow sand with black specks. North of this parallel the bottom is as often mud as sand, the mud being more frequent going to the N.E. until off Block Island, where the bottom from 100 to 20 fathoms is mostly green mud or oaze, known as the Block Island soundings. Green mud or oaze cannot be found within 15 miles of Block Island, and seldom to the West of the meridian of Montauk Point in less than 30 fathoms water.

Between 40 and 20 fathoms off the coast of Long Island and New Jersey, the character of the bottom changes so often between these depths, that constant refer- ence must be made to the descriptions on the chart.

The 5-fathom bank off the Delaware has 13 feet on it. A lightvessel is stationed 3 miles to the S.W. by S. of this bank, which vessels from sea will leave on the star- board hand when bound into Delaware Bay, and on the port hand when bound to the northward. In an E.S.E. f S direction from Barnegat Inlet the 20-fathom curve or line extends as far out as 45 miles.

There are other banks from 2 to 4 miles N. by W. and N. of this 13-ft. bank, least water 3£ fathoms; another southward 3 miles, and another directly eastward of Townsend Inlet, both with 4 fathoms.

In general the soundings decrease regularly and more or less gradually from 100 or 80 fathoms to the shore, but there are some remarkable exceptions, among which may be mentioned the Five Fathom and other banks at the entrance to the Delaware. The principal exceptions are, however, the mud holes, which extend in a S.E. direc- tion from Sandy Hook, and form a very remarkable gorge. When passing over them, the least distance from New York, at which a depth of 100 fathoms is found, is 100 miles.

The Mud Holes. - The first holes met with after leaving New York are the Twenty* three, Ttcenty-one, and Thirty-two Fathom Holes, which lie at the distance of 11, 12J, and 17£ miles from Sandy Hook lighthouse, in a south-easterly direction. They are not very extensive, but you may know when you are over them by the lead drop- ping suddenly into them from a depth of 16, 13, or 17 fathoms. Between these holes and the New Jersey coast the soundings decrease from 15 to 13 and 7 fathoms, the latter depth being close to the shore.

The next hole, that with which seamen are particularly acquainted, is called the First Thirty-seven Fathom Hole. It is about 8 miles long and 1| mile wide, and has 22 fathoms immediately outside it, with soundings of 20 and 19 fathoms close to its south-western extremity. Its centre is distant from Sandy Hook lighthouse 28 miles in a S.E. J S. direction.

The Second Thirty-seven Fathom Hole lies 7 miles to the south-eastward of the First, with Sandy Hook bearing N.W. £ N., distant 39 miles. It is about 5 miles in extent, and has 27 fathoms outside it in a N.E. direction, but only 21 fathoms in a southerly direction.

The Thirty-eight Fathom Hole lies 11 miles to the S.E. by E. £ E. from the Hole last mentioned, in lat. 39° 55' N., and long. 73° 10' W. Its length is 8J miles from North to South, and its width 1\ miles. From it Sandy Hook bears N.W., distant 50 miles. Close to it are 25 to 29 fathoms, and near its northern end are 25 and 24 fathoms.

U.S. - Part I. M

82 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

At 11 miles South (true) from the Thirty-eight Fathom Hole is another of Thirty- Jive Fathoms, \vhich is about 4 miles in extent, and lies with Sandy Hook bearing N.W. by N. 63 miles. It has 27 fathoms close to it outside, which deepen rapidly to 30 and 34 fathoms.

The Fifty Fathom Hole lies in lat. 40° N., and long. 72' 30' W., at about 50 miles from the shore of Long Island. It is 4 miles in extent, and has 35 and 38 fathoms close-to all round. From it Sandy Hook bears N.W. by W. 5 W., distant 74 miles.

The ninth and last of the mud holes is the most extraordinary of the whole series, as the lead at once falls from 55 to 60 fathoms into a depth of 145 fathoms. It is si- tuated about 12 miles within the edge of soundings of 100 fathoms, and lies in lat. 39° 38' N., and long. 72' 23' W. Its extent is not more than 2£ miles, and from it Sandy Hook bears N.W. £ W. distant 89 miles.

It has been observed that in approaching Sandy Hook, the soundings to the southward are full of black specks, between the depths of 10 and 20 fathoms ; in the true channel they are of mud ; while to the northward, near Long Island, they are of black and white sand.

Foggy Weather, $c. - The instructions deduced from the foregoing observations will doubtless be of considerable service to vessels in the night time or in thick and hazy weather. Therefore, when coming from the eastward and striking soundings in more than 35 fathoms, green mud, steer to the northward of West, shoaling the water very gradually on that course. If beating against a westerly wind, do not stand into less than 18 fathoms on the northerly tack, till nearly up with Fire Island lighthouse, for the soundings inside of 25 fathoms decrease very rapidly towards the Long Island shore, but very slowly towards that of New Jersey, a distinction that should be care- fully borne in mind.

When coming from the southward a depth of 15 fathoms and upwards should be preserved, for to the northward of Barnegat Inlet 10 or 12 fathoms is found within 1* mile of the beach. When the water has decreased to 15 fathoms, the lead should be kept constantly going and the bottom examined ; gravelly bottom indicates too near an approach to the land.

Remarks on approaching the land. - The appearance of Long Island is generally low and level, excepting a few hills, which lie 40 miles to the westward of Montauk Point. Along the South side of the island a flat extends all along the shore, which at the mouths of some of the inlets, especially those westward of Fire Island, runs off about a mile. Your course from Montauk Point to Sandy Hook is S.W. by W. f W., 60 miles, and then W. \ N., 45 miles. At 12 miles southward of Montauk Point there are 26 and 23 fathoms, coarse gray sand and gravel, with black specks, which depth is maintained at the same distance from the land until you get to about 20 miles eastward of Fire Island lighthouse, when you will meet with soundings of 20 to 18 fathoms, thence decreasing to 16, 15, 14, and 13 fathoms, and again deepening to 16 fathoms as you approach the harbour of New York. Within this distance from the shore it is not safe for a large ship to approach without a commanding breeze, because the coast of Long Island is steep-to, having 6 and 7 fathoms immediately off the edge of the flat, and the line of 20 fathoms approaches Montauk Point to within 7 miles, the soundings between decreasing very rapidly. In the vicinity of Fire Island Inlet, the depth is shoaler, there being 12 to 15 fathoms at 8 miles from the shore. Outside the depth of 20 and thence to 40 fathoms, the character of the bottom changes so ra- pidly that constant reference must be made to the chart, as no general description would be at all applicable. The difference in latitude between Montauk Point and Sandy Hook is only about 37 miles, but there will be no difficulty in determining

SOUNDINGS. 83

which of the two you are approaching, as the character of the lights and that of the soundings affords an infallible distinction.

In passing the Nantucket shoals between latitudes 39° and 39° 29', you should take notice, if possible, when you have crossed the Gulf Stream ; as, at the distance of 10 leagues, within it, you may expect soundings; so soon as you obtain which, you will possibly experience a S.W. current.

Should you now be running for the New Jersey coast, to the northward of Great and Little Egg Harbours, you may suddenly strike one of the Mud Holes previously mentioned as existing in a south-easterly direction from Sandy Hook. In that case it will be necessary to take particular notice of your position, because many ship- masters have been deceived, especially by those near Sandy Hook, and fancying them- selves at a greater distance from the coast of New Jersey than they really were, have run on and put themselves to considerable inconvenience, and even danger. It should be remembered that the coast of New Jersey is steep-to, there being 6 to 10 fathoms immediately off it.

In beating to windward of Sandy Hook, in from 12 to 15 fathoms, when waiting for a pilot or a wind, either by day or night, when the lighthouse bears nearly West, you will be sufficiently near to Long Island.

Should you fall in so far to the southward as to approach Cape Hatteras, be very cautious of its shoals, and bear away to the N.N.E., so as to obtain soundings on the Jersey shore. When you have gained 28 or 26 fathoms in latitude 40°, haul in to make the land,

It has been remarked that ships from sea, approaching any part of the American coast between Long Island and Cape Hatteras, if in doubt about their reckoning, should take notice of what is commonly named the Gulf Weed, which is more plen- tiful, and in larger clusters to the eastward of the Gulf Stream than in it, where the sprigs are but small and few. Within the stream there is no weed, unless in rare in- stances, and there, as before observed, the colour of the water changes to a still darker and muddy colour.

If you fall in to the northioard of the Chesapeake, approach the Chincoteague Shoals no nearer than into 15 fathoms ; from this steer N. by E. until nearly up with Great Egg Harbour, keeping the lead going. You may advance towards this place, and to the northward, to the depth of 15 fathoms. From Great Egg Harbour to lat. 39° 30' the shore trends about N.E. by N., and thence to the high lands of Navesink nearly N. by E.

Should you fall in so as to make the Capes of the Delaware, keep above 6 leagues off the land, or in not less than 15 fathoms, in order to avoid the bank named the Five Fathom Bank, which lies 15 miles E. by S. from Cape May lighthouse, and is marked by a lightvessel moored in 12 fathoms S.E. f S. from its shoalest (13 feet) spot, which exhibits two fixed lights, and is provided with a bell and fog-horn. After passing the bank, which is steep-to, you may haul up N.E. for 45 miles, which will lead into 15 fathoms, off Little Egg Harbour, and by altering the course to N.N.E. for 18 miles, will reach Barnegat. Here the soundings will be coarse gray sand, with a few shells and gravel ; and having these soundings, you may steer along in the direction of the land North by East, on which course you will have from 16 to 18 fathoms. In the day time you will notice the Woodlands, between Barnegat and Sandy Hook, which is a remarkable part of the coast, resembling, it is said, no other land between Cape May and the high lands of Navesink. It is in this part of the coast of New Jersey, between Barnegat and Shrewsbury Inlets, that so many fatal shipwrecks occur from approaching too near the land ; they principally take place on Squan and Long Branch Beaches.

84 BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Barnegat may be readily known in the day time, even when the breakers are not seen, as there is a long grove of wood, back in the country, apparently 3 or 4 miles long, directly within the inlet named the Little Swamp. With the North end of this land directly abreast, you will be to the northward of Barnegat.

There is another grove, directly in the rear of Egg Harbour, which is known by the name of the Great Swamp ; this is much higher than the former, the Little Swamp, and is S or 10 miles in length. These swamps cannot be seen at one time, as the distance between Egg Harbour and Barnegat is 6 leagues.

Barnegat lies S. by W. J W., 43 miles from Sandy Hook. When hauling in for the Woodlands, already mentioned, with the wind off shore, you may, in a small ship, and exercising great care, keep within a short distance of the coast, until up with the Highlands ; and, should your vessel not draw more than 10 feet, may continue your course until up with the northernmost part of the cedars on Sandy Hook ; after which steer according to the subsequent instructions. When approaching Sandy Hook there are some shoal spots of 10 and 20 feet, about 2~ miles before reaching the en- trance of Shrewsbury Inlet ; and also along the shore of Sandy Hook there are some banks of 10 to 17 feet, named the Middle Ground, Oil Spot, &c., all of which must be cautiously avoided.

On the southern side of the entrance to New York Harbour are the Highlands of Navesink, the highest part of which, Mount Mitchell, is estimated to be 282 feet above the sea. This high land of Navesink is a very important mark when approach- ing the coast, as it can be seen from the First Thirty-seven Hole, when you are 8 leagues off, and in a depth of 30 or 36 fathoms water. It appears at first like an island, being pretty level on the summit, excepting some irregular risings towards Point Comfort, on the West end or inland side. As you approach nearer to the har- bour, you will see some other high land, situated more at the back of the bay, the first of which may be Hempstead Hill in Long Island, the summit of which is about 320 feet above the sea level. On Staten Island is Tomkins Hill, at the back of the small village of Tompkinsville, which is estimated to be 307 feet high. Both these hills will be seen after you have made Navesink

SECTION II.

SANDY HOOK TO CHAELESTON.

To the valley at the foot of the Highlands of Navesink succeeds a tract of lo-vr table land, and southward of this is a considerable and remarkable tract of woodland, which terminates at 6 leagues S. by W. from the Navesink lighthouses ; next follows an extensive lagoon, named Barnegat Sound, which is fronted by a narrow strip of low land. The coast, from the Highlands of Navesink to the elbow of an island called Barnegat Long Beach, trends nearly S. by W. 16 leagues, and the soundings regularly decrease toward the shore from 12 to 7 and 5 fathoms.

Barnegat Inlet. - At 12 leagues to the southward of New York Harbour is the Inlet of Barnegat, or the entrance of Barnegat Sound. A shoal bar extends outward from this place to the distance of 2 miles, and the bottom is an admixture of mud, shells, and gravel. The outer edge of the shoal is steep-to, and you may pass it in 6 fathoms within a short distance from the outer breaker ; but during night keep at least in 9 or 10 fathoms. The soundings more to the northward in these depths are fine white sand, with very hard bottom.

BARNEGAT LIGHTHOUSE. - On the South side of the inlet is a lofty tower, the upper part of which is red, the lower half -white ; it is 150 ft. high, and shows a bright revolving light every 10 seconds, at an elevation of 165 ft., seen 22 miles and upwards ; lat. 39° 46' N., long. 74° 6' W.

Barnegat also may be readily known in the day, even when the breakers are not seen, as there is a long grove of wood, back in the country, apparently 3 or 4 miles long, directly within the inlet, and commonly called the Little Swamp, With the North end of this land directly abreast, you will be to the northward of Barnegat.

When advancing from the southward for New York Harbour, and hauling in for the woodlands above described, you may, with the wind off shore, keep within a cable's length of the coast until up with the Highlands ; and should your vessel not draw more than 10 ft., you continue your course until up with the northernmost part of the cedars on Sandy Hook, whence you proceed for the harbour according to the preceding instructions.

Between the elbow of Barnegat Long Beach and Cape May, at the mouth of the Delaware, the coast forms a gentle concavity, but its general trend is nearly S.W. £ S., and the distance 18 leagues. The land is generally low and broken, forming several islets and inlets. The soundings are regular, commonly 8 to 10 fathoms at 2 leagues from shore ; but there is a sand bar at every inlet, several of which extend off to a considerable distance.

LITTLE EGG HARBOUR, in the parallel of 39° 30', long. 74° 19', is a small harbour formed by low islets or beaches on the East, and by salt marshes on the West. It is also known as the port of Tuckerton. To a stranger this harbour cannot be recommended, unless as a retreat in case of emergency, several shoals about the entrance being dangerous ; yet it has frequently served as a place of refuge in the winter, when violent N.W. winds have prevented vessels from entering the Delaware or New York Harbour.

86 SANDY HOOK TO CHARLESTON.

The shoals form three channels, of which that called the Sod Channel, next tht shore on the North side, appears to be the best. The next is the Middle or East Channel, but it has only 6 ft. at low water, and the third the South Channel, which has 9 ft. water. The Sod Channel lies in a S.W. direction ; the Middle Channel in a W.N.W., and the South Channel in a N.N.W. direction.

On the North side of the entrance is Tucker's Beach, with Tucker's House, a remarkable house with two chimneys upon it, having a cluster of three single trees at some distance to the N.E., and a smaller house to the S.W., and a lighthouse to S. by E. When advanced to this part you will come up to the buoys which mark the northern or Sod passage.

The Lighthouse is a red structure, and shows a fixed light with a Jiash every minute, visible 12 miles off.

The buoys are as follow : -

The outer buoy is at the middle of the Sod Channel, a little inside of the bar of breakers.

The middle buoy is at the inner part of the same channel, off Sod or Small Point, and upon the North side of the main channel into the harbour. The latter bears- S.W. I S., nearly half a mile from the outer buoy, and both lie in 2£ fathoms of water.

The inner buoy lies in mid-channel at two-thirds of a mile N.N.W. from the middle buoy in 8 fathoms water.

Sod Channel. - Coasters bound to the northward will generally make this har- bour when caught by a north-easter, after having passed to the northward of it, and before being able to make Sandy Hook. In running down within sight of the land, pass the boarding-house near the point of Long Beach, giving the breakers off the Old Inlet (which is to the North of Tucker's Beach) a berth of half a mile, and keeping in 24 feet of water, until the boarding-house on Tucker'