Barnstable County, Massachusetts - Town of Chatham, 1890

Natuial Features. - Settlement. - Incorporation. - Early Town Action. - Town Poor. - Town House. - Industries. - Ordinaries. - Lighthouses and Life Saving Stations. - MaU and Express Business. - Burying Grounds. - Present Condition. - Churches. - Schools. - Civil History. - The Villages and their Institutions. - Biographical Sketches.

THIS is the southeastern town of the county, in the elbow of the great arm as represented by the entire cape; and is bounded north by Harwich and Orleans, east by the ocean, south by the sound and west by Harwich. Its breadth and length are each about four miles, and it lies in latitude 41°, 40' north. It is encompassed on three sides by water. Pleasant bay being on the north and separating it from Orleans. Its distance from the court house is twenty miles, and from Boston ninety-three. The town has the general appearance of a plain, but is diversified with small sand knolls and corresponding depressions. Great hill, the highest elevation, is the first land visible to the seamen when approaching the town, and from its summit Nantucket is plainly visible twenty miles to the southward, and the long sandy neck of Monomoy is traceable to its most southern point. The numerous bays and sounds that indent the greater portion of its perimeter, render the town very irregular in contour, and greatly lessen its land surface. One-half of a square mile of its surface is occupied by ponds having no visible outlets. Of these. Goose pond is the largest and covers an area of sixty-six acres; four ponds west of Goose cover sixty-eight acres, their area being respectively fifteen, eleven, twenty-nine and thirteen acres; a pond in the southwest part covers fourteen acres; one southwest of West Chatham, fifteen; two east of Goo.se pond, fourteen and twenty-five; two southwest of Great Hill, ten and thirty-one; one northwest of Great Hill, twenty-four: and one north of that of thirteen acres. There are also many of inconsiderable size distributed throughout the town.

In passing along the principal roadsof the town the casual obser%-er might conclude that the soil was too sandy for agricultural purposes; but there is much productive land. The wind in many parts has swept away the turf and soil, leaving abrupt specimens of the original surface, and no considerable portion of the inhabitants are engaged in husbandry beyond the culture of cranberries in suitable places; and to this industry less attention is paid than in towns to the westward. It excels in harbors, furnishing within its projecting points more and safer anchorage than any other town; but in no other are the changes from wind and tide greater. (See Chapter I). The harbors are free from rocks, but the shifting sands require skill and almost a daily familiarity with them to be safely navigated. Inside the beaches and on the southern side of Strong island are salt marshes, flowed by the tides. The west side of Monomoy, which is virtually an island stretching ten miles toward Nantucket, was formerly a long salt marsh but the wind has filled it with sand.

The streams are short and not available for mill purposes. Mitchell's river connects Mill pond with the Cove and Stage harbor; west of Stage harbor is Cockle Cove river, connecting Salt pond with the sound. Muddy creek, flowing northeasterly into Pleasant bay, forms in part the northwestern boundary between Chatham and Harwich, and Red river, flowing into the sound, the southwestern.

Peat has been obtained for fuel from the ancient bogs in years past; but cranberry culture in these spots is now of more profit. The woodland of the town, comparatively less than in towns to the westward, is mostly along the western bounds. Hundreds of acres of pines have been planted in the central and northern parts. This planting began about fifty years ago.

The original Indian name was Monomoyick and has been variously written with the same significance. In the territory embraced within the limits of the town the natives, unmolested, enjoyed their customs many years after the English had settled Old Eastham and Yarmouth. Early in the spring of 1665, William Nickerson, mentioned at page 458, settled here, having purchased of the Indians, in 1656, the first lands for settlement by the whites. The first territory purchased was of John Quason, chief of Monomoyick, and was a large tract north of the road now leading from Chatham to West Brewster, and south of and near to Potanumaquut. June 19, 1672, the same sachem, Quason, joined with Mattaquason in a deed of land, south of the first, which extended east to Oyster pond, the name Mr. Nickerson gave to that body of salt water and which it now bears. March 29, 1678, August 16, 1682, and at other times he purchased other tracts of the natives, paying valuable considerations of goods as agreed. But Mr. Nickerson had purchased these lands without permission of the court at Plymouth, and much legal strife ensued.

The same year that Mr. Nickerson made his first purchase, the court at Plymouth granted to Thomas Hinckley, John Freeman, William Sargeant, Anthony Thacher, Edmund Hawes, Thomas Falland,

John Rogers and Nathaniel Bacon the right to purchase of the Indians lands at Monomoyick and places adjacent. This invalidated Mr. Nickerson's title to the lands; but he, with his numerous sons and sons-in-law, appealed to the court for the adjustment of their rights. The court was willing to allow him one hundred acres near his house, with some other divisions in the commons, which was not satisfactory. July 3, 1672, Mr. Hinckley and his associates conveyed their rights in the territory, together with what they themselves had purchased under it, to Mr. Nickerson, which made his title indisputable, and which the general court subsequently confirmed. The settlement of Monomoyick was thus commenced by this family, to whom were subsequently added the families of Hugh Stewart, Samuel Smith, William Cahoon, William Gross, George Godfrey, Ed.- ward Small, Joseph Harding, Benjamin Phillips, William Eldred or Eldridge, Lieutenant Nicholas Eldred, Joseph Eldred or Eldridge, Moses Godfrey, Nathaniel Tomlon, William Stewart, William Covel and John Ellis. Later, after 1700, we find as residents the names of Roland Paddock, Robert Nickerson, Caleb Lombard, Richard and Daniel Sears; and still later came Thomas Atkins, William Griffith, Nathaniel Covel, Daniel Hamilton, Edmund Howes, Ebenezer Howes, John Atkins, Samuel Taylor, Thomas Howes, Paul Crowell, Thomas Doane, and many others of similar family names. The histories of the villages contain the names of subsequent settlers.

In 1686 Monomoyick was ordered by the court to send grand jurors, and in 1691 to send a deputy to the general court. By this it would seem that when the county was organized this community was recognized as a town. Several pages of the first records of the town, if ever kept, are lost, for there are no records of the first deputies or grand jurors sent. May 12, 1693, in the proceedings of a regular town meeting, the records commence with that assurance and fullness that would indicate prior proceedings. The absence of proprietors' records is noticeable in this town, as the so-called proprietors early sold their franchises to William Nickerson, from whom and his heirs and assigns all deeds have been received.

But little of interest is found in the town records, beyond the election of officers, for many years subsequent to 1693. June 11, 1712, Monomoy was incorporated a township by the name of Chatham. The people required frequent special town meetings to regulate their church, which, with all municipal afi^airs, was under the close surveillance of the Plymouth court. In 1718, for the simple omission to elect a hog constable, the town was presented, and Thomas Atkins was sent to answer for the dereliction; and about this time the first pound was erected.

1721, and sent Captain Jonas Atkins and Thomas Doane to receive the sum, they to bring it by land or water, as they chose. The settlement in 1722 had become important and the inhabitants of the east portion of Harwich wished to be set off to Chatham, which was effected the next year, enlarging the town substantially to its present area. The bounds between the two towns were renewed in 1728.

An almshouse was not erected very early, but the town voted assistance to families in need, and cared for them with ample and rigid supervision. In 1724, in open town meeting, it was voted that Captain Joseph Harding and John Nickerson be appointed a committee " to take care that Nic'los Eldredge and his wife be kept to work for an honest livelihood." This procedure might seem peculiar to the reader, but tradition explains that in those days, prior to the establishment of a proper house, the labor and maintenance of those not willing or able to work were sold at auction to whoever would relieve the town of the expense and care of such persons. Later an almshouse and adjacent lands were acquired in the western part of the town, but were sold in 1878, and the old building that had stood on the former site of the Methodist Episcopal church was removed to Chatham village, to the lot next north of the Baptist church, to be used for a poor house. In 1889 this important institution was closed until again needed.

The citizens of the town had no town house until 1849, when the church site of the Methodist Society, near their cemetery, was purchased and a town house provided. In 1877 the present commodious town hall, forty-five by sixty-five feet, was erected at a cost of $6,000. The building committee were Hiram Harding, George Eldridge and Erastus Nickerson. It stands just north of Oyster pond, near the railroad depot. Prior to the purchase of this meeting house site the town meetings were held at the church there, and in the old academy hall, and still earlier the first meeting house was used.

The industries of the town have been varied; rye, corn and English hay are staple products, and have been from its incorporation. Fishing had been its principal source of revenue until the middle of the present century, and it yet furnishes a livelihood for many. The first fishing station established was by Daniel Greenleaf, who came from Yarmouth in 1711 and purchased land, the town voting " his land, men and boats to be free from rates." Monomoy point was formerly a favored spot, from its facilities for curing and packing fish. About 1847 Thomas Sparrow, Joseph Reed and Isaiah Lewis, as Sparrow, Reed & Lewis, began fishing at Monomoy. Ten years later, Timothy V. Loveland and his deceased brother, Isaac H., formed a partnership with the late Antony Thacher, as Loveland & Thacher, who also carried on an extensive fishing business here. During the civil war

Joseph Reed, David Lewis and Myrick N. Kent were prominent fish and weir men in Chatham. The weir business there now is owned by Mr. Kent, T. V. Loveland, Joseph S. Reed, and seven others, under the firm name of Reed & Loveland. In 1837 the town had twentytwo vessels in the fisheries, yielding annually fifteen thousand quintals of cod and twelve hundred barrels of mackerel. The latter part of this century the culture of cranberries has been advanced, measurably filling the decline of the fisheries. Early in the present century the freight business by packets and vessels was of great importance. It is believed that more freighting was done from Chatham than from any other town in the county.

Soon after 1800 the manufacture of salt from sea water commenced in the north part of the town, and the entire shore line from. Pleasant bay around to the Harwich line at Red river was interspersed with the works. The owners' names and the location of these plants will be found in the history of the villages. The industry was at its height in . 1830, and in 1837 the product from eighty establishments was twenty-seven thousand, four hundred bushels.

Sheep husbandry commenced as early as 1700, and became the subject of a town vote for its regulation. March 19, 1712, the town meeting voted that no sheep should be driven for shearing before the last Monday of May, the penalty for violation of the rule to be twenty pounds. Many years subsequently various laws were passed by the town in advancing and systematizing this industry - now long extinct.

Of the ills and accidents of life Chatham has had its share. The smallpox caused the death of many of its citizens in 1766, and the prevalence of this loathsome epidemic caused the removal from town of many families for the succeeding three years. Among the many losses by sea was the mysterious murder, November, 1772, of Captain Thomas Nickerson, Mr. Elisha Newcomb and William Kent, jr., on board the vessel sailed by them. The Massachusetts Gazette of November 23d gives a detailed account of the finding of the schooner back of the Cape by Captain Joseph Doane, who, on boarding her, found bloody decks, plundered chests and one man alive. This man was tried for the murder of the officers and crew, and was acquitted. The resolves against the embargo act, the church actions and annual elections are the only matters found in the records during the first quarter of this century.

decline of its salt and fishing industries, the census of 1870 gave 2.411; that of 1880 gave 2,250; and the last state census in 1885 only enumerated 2,028 souls. Of this number there were 612 voters in 1857, 603 in 1875, and 601 in 1885, indicating a gradual removal of the heads of families to seek homes and employment elsewhere.

Manufacturing forms no part of the occupation of the present generation. In 1800 considerable attention was paid to this, as we find at that date a tannery at Old Harbor, owned by the Crosbys, who ground bark by a wind mill; it was abandoned about 1830. A rope walk, built by Cobb Nickerson, near his homestead in the north part of the town, did good service during the first quarter of this century. The wind mills have naturally declined, and of the seven in town in 1800 only one is now in use. This is owned by Zenas Nickerson and stands on the knoll north of the marine railway. It was built in 1796, and was owned successively by Colonel Godfrey, Christopher Taylor and Oliver Eldridge. About 1883 it was purchased of Eldridge's heirs by the present owner. Of the older ones Chatham Port had one. South Chatham one. Old Harbor one, which was moved to Orleans, and the point at the Light had one. Isaac Bearse, at South Chatham now has one not in use, and another, equally worthless, adorns the knoll, north of Oyster pond.

Of the many old wharves on the east and south borders of the town but little remains beyond tradition; three of recent date, two at Stage harbor and one at Harding's beach, supply the fishing of 1889 as well as several did when this business was active and lucrative.

The town at large, especially along the central road where the first churches stood, had its " ordinaries." Perhaps that term should not be applied; but away back in the dim aisles of tradition, the widow Knowles kept some sort of an institution where, after election, the town ofiBcers and their friends ordinarily adjourned for the purpose of swearing in and lengthening the day into the evening. " Esquire Crowe" also had, in the same neighborhood, a store, or ordinary, that in this century has been voted entirely away. Before there was any village of Chatham, and while " Esquire Crowe " was selling to that part of the town, Richard Sears had a general store of necessaries on the spot now next to the hall of the A. L. of H. in the village. The only hotels - the more modern name - are now in the village.

Within the limits of the town, besides that of the village, are two lighthouses - one on Harding's beach and the other on Monomoy point. These are strong iron towers with appropriate lights for the safe guidance of mariners over the shoals. Each has a comfortable residence for the keeper. On the beach east of Morris island is the U. S. life saving station, and near the lighthouse of Monomoy is another. These stations have one man - the captain - during the summer, and

The facilities of this town in express and mail matter are now second to none. The early packets to and from Boston aflForded reliable sources, and Barzilla Harding and Heman Smith were thus engaged prior to 1829. Later, stages connected with the old Plymouth line, and later still, when the railroad was extended along the Cape, more frequent and rapid accommodations were received. In 1861 Rufus Smith started a stage from Chatham to Yarmouth, which, in 1866, was displaced by the railroad to Orleans; but Chatham continued to receive the mails and express by his stage. In 1879 this express Tvas consolidated with the New York & Boston Despatch Express Company, which continues the business; but since 1887 the transportation of goods to this town is by the Chatham railroad.

There are several burying places in the town, of which the Nickerson ground, at Chatham Port, is the oldest, and is said to have been an Indian burial place. The oldest of the church yards, in the center of the town, was first used as a separate ground for the whites; the second is east of this. The others near by are known as the Baptist burying ground, the Universalist, and the Methodist. South Chatham also has a small burial place called the Bethel.

The town rapidly grows in wealth, the increase in the valuation of real estate exceeding that of personal. The present valuation of the real estate is about half a million. The taxes for state, county .and town purposes average $12,000 yearly. The taxes for 1889 included $1,900 for the poor and $1,700 for highways. Guide-boards are maintained at the intersections of important roads. While by the decline of its fishing interests many are compelled to seek employment in other channels, and perhaps elsewhere, the energy of the Chatham people is marked by the continued improvement and growth in commercial and agricultural interests.

Churches. - Although the settlement of the town dates from 1666, the church records must commence with a date nearly thirty years subsequent. That a meeting house had been erected prior to any record is evident from the language of the first town meeting: " that Wm. Nickerson and Joseph Harding be appointed agents for the repairs of the Monomoy meeting house." No record is given of the regular service of a pastor until 1699, when the assessment of rates indicates that Rev. Jonathan Vickery must be paid for pastoral duties. From historical and traditionary sources, it appears that the first William Nickerson was a religious teacher, and that for the first years after a place of worship was erected he performed these important duties.

The first meeting house must have been a primitive structure, for February 15, 1700, the people, in town meeting, voted to have a new one, twenty by thirty-two feet; and it was arranged among the men of the town that each should go two days with his team to secure timber, and William Eldred (or Eldridge) was to go for planks and boards with which to line it. In October, 1700, Thomas Atkins was appointed sexton, at ten shillings per annum.

In April, 1702, Mr. Vickery, the preacher, was drowned, and in January following Mr. Gershom Hall was hired to preach. Mr. John Lattimer came in May, 1706, and was retained until 1709. Mr. Matthew Short was made pastor in 1710, and in 1711, after strong and binding conditions had been accepted by the town, Mr. Hugh Adams - began his labors, which were closed by dismissal in 1715. Mr. Hall and Rev. Joseph Lord preached until 1719, when Mr. Lord was settled. In 1721 they built him a parsonage, with a chimney of brick made from the clay on the premises. In 1729 the town voted to build another meeting house, and ten years later the pews were first put in and sold. Mr. Lord died early in 1748, and in October Stephen Emery was called, who died in May, 1782, after thirty-three years of ministry. In 1755 a town meeting was called to see if certain religionists called " separatists " should be excused from church taxes - but the majority voted in the negative.

We have given a history of this ancient church for several years prior to the date of the ministry of Rev. Joseph Lord, at which time the Conference dates the organization of the Chatham church. The town records furnish the early history, and the organization of 1720 was doubtless a closer religious union of the old parish. The first real meeting house, erected in 1700, was by the old burying ground; the second was near the later ground of the society; and the present edifice in the village was erected in 1866, the frame of the old one being used. The records of the church were burned with the parsonage, September 29, 1861; but from the assistance of Levi Atwood, who has been superintendent of the Sunday school for the past forty years, and from the records, well preserved since 1866, this sketch is prepared.

For several years the scattered adherents of the Methodist faith were included in a circuit with Harwich, and in the early days of Methodism the towns of Truro and Wellfleet were included. In 1807 Rev. Joel Steele traveled from place to place and preached, and in 1808 Rev. Erastus Otis came. Joseph A. Merrill was on the circuit in 1809-11. In 1812 Benjamin F. Lumbard received the quarterly collections from Chatham, and in July of the same year Pliny Brett was the pastor. In 1814 the traveling minister was Rev. Noah Bigalow, succeeded by Philip Munger in 1815. In 1816 this charge was joined with Sandwich, Barnstable and Harwich. In 1817 Benjamin R. Hoyt preached, and in 1818 Moses Fifield alternated with him. In 1820 Benjamin Hazelton, and in 1821 I. Jennison, were the preachers of the circuit. In 1822 Benjamin Brown and Edward T. Taylor preached. In 1824-6 we find Mr. Bates, E. Hyde and Mr. Bepnett receiving the contributions of Harwich and Chatham.

The first class formed here was in the fall of 1816, when Moses Fifield was in charge. The first annual meeting recorded was held March 5, 1821, at which Christopher Taylor was made secretary of the society, and Micajah Howes, William Hamilton and Henry Gotham were chosen a general committee. Soon after this a meeting house was erected near their present burying ground. In 1838 we find a vote to sell the parsonage and grounds, which fact indicates the existence of this valuable appendage, and that ministers had been settled. The minutes of the society from 1825 to 1837 are not to be found. In 1838, at the annual meeting, it was voted that the class leaders circulate a subscription " to see what amount they can raise for support of preacher the coming year."

The early Methodists who had become members between 1815 and 1822, were Lemuel Hunt, Henry Gorham, Obed Harding, Calvin Hammond, William Hamilton, Micajah Howes, L. Loveland, Joshua Nickerson, jr., Tully Nickerson, Reuben and John Rider, Christopher Taylor, Isaiah Nye and Joshua Atkins. These were followed in 1823 by the membership of David Bearse, Solomon Howes, Thomas Holway, Stephen Hammond, E. Rider, Isaiah Rider, Abner Sparrow, Zenas Taylor and D. Tripp. Many followed these in 1824 and the succeeding years; but our aim is to mention the first who, perhaps, assisted in the organization of the society and erection of the first meeting house.

Mr. Paine, Mr. Gould and Hezekiah Thacher preached here more or less in 1826-7-8. In 1829 Mr. Thacher received the moneys as pastor, and in 1830 and 1832 Rev. G. Stone was pastor. Rev. Joseph B. Brown preached in 1835, and in 1837 we find J. Steele came for two years. In 1839 Thomas Dodge preached. In 1841 Israel Washburn was pastor, and again in 1846. E. D. Trakey filled the desk in 1846.

After the reorganization of the church society tinder the act of 1847, a meeting house was erected in 1849, and in 1851 a deed of the present site was obtained. Since the erection of the present edifice the minutes are well preserved by Thomas Holway, clerk. The pastors have been: John E. Gifford, in 1854; Asa N. Bodfish, in 1856; Samuel W. Coggshall, 1858; W. H. Stetson, 1859; John W. Willett, 1860; W. H. Richards, 1863: John W. Howson, 1865; William F. Farrington, 1867; Thomas S. Thomas, 1869; Edward Edson, 1870; Edward A. Lyon, 1873: Samuel McKeown, 1875; John D. King; 1877; V. W. Mattoon, 1879; Warren Applebee, 1881; Archibald McCord, 1884; Walter J. Yates, 1887; and Nathan C. Alger in 1889.

The Universalist society v/as organized August 1, 1822, by twentynine members. A meeting house was erected in 1823, near their cemetery, northwest of Chatham village. In 1850 a second edifice was erected on the site of the academy, bought February 14, of that year. This was burned in 1878, and the society erected the present edifice in the village, dedicating it November 19, 1879. In 1831 a church organization of sixteen members was established. Calvin Monroe preached from 1824 to 1827; the church was supplied through 1828; Charles Spear came m 1829, remaining until July, 1832; Abraham Norwood and others supplied in 1833-34; A. P. Cleverly, June, 1835, until August, 1837; H. Chaffee and W. S. Cilley, in 1837; G. Hastings and others, supplies to 1839; W. S. Clarke, September, 1839- 42; Gamaliel Collins, 1842-43; Joshua Britton, May, 1844-49; Alvin Abbott, May, 1850-51; E. M. Knapen, 1851-54; M. E. Hawes, July, 1854- 68; Benton Smith, November, 1858. to May, 1865; Franklin C. Flint, 1865, to May 1867; W. W. Wilson, October, 1867, to May, 1869; William Hooper, July, 1869, to June, 1871; supplies; George Proctor, March, 1872-74; N. P. Smith, July, 1874-76; B. L. Bennett, April, 1877, to December, 1880; Thomas W. Critchett, January, 1881, to March, 1882; Collins and other supplies; Henry M. Couden, April, 1883, to date. Of this society and church Ziba Nickerson has acted as clerk and treasurer since 1850.

The Baptist society has a church edifice at Chatham village. In June, 1823, Mary Nickerson, of this town, a member of the Harwich church, resolved to hold a Baptist meeting at Chatham, which she did in the school house at Old Harbor, now North Chatham. She held the service alone for several Sabbaths, when she was joined by Myrick Nickerson; after a few Sabbaths Otis Wing joined them; then Jeremiah Kelly. In 1824, the school house having been closed against them, they purchased an old sheep cot, which had been the first school house there, and in this they continued their worship. October, 8, 1824, the church organization was effected by Otis Wing, Myrick Nickerson, Enoch Bassett, Bangs Snow, Nehemiah Doane, Jeremiah

In 1827 a meeting house was built and various ministers filled the pulpit. In 1828 Davis Lothrop was settled, and remained ten years, succeeded bj' Thomas Conant for nearly two years. In 1841 Rev. William Bowen was pastor; in 1842 George D. Fenton was settled; in 1843, Nathan Chapman; 1845, Davis Cobb; 1848, A. Smith Lyon, until February, 1853; George D. Stowell came in 1853; J. Ellis Guild, in 1854: and in 1857, Rev. Abijah Hall, jr., who remained one year and was pastor again in 1859-60. Andrew Dunn filled the desk in 1858; 1861, supplied by various ministers. In 1862 George Matthews was settled for a year. H. G. Hubbard was settled in 1864 for two years. Rev. S. J. Carr was called in 1866; George W. Ryan in 1868; F. R. Sleeper, in 1872; Jessie Coker, in 1874; Irving W. Combs, in 1876; and in 1877 G. H. Perry was pastor for that and the succeeding year. Supplies filled the time until February, 1880, when C. D. R. Meacham came. Rev. O. R Fuller, 1881; C. N. Nichols, 1886. In October, 1888, the society settled Rev. Ira Emery, who continues. The society have a pleasant church edifice in the north part of the village on the street leading to North Chatham.

Schools. - This medium for the advancement of all that pertains to civil and religious government was not neglected in Monomoyick, nor in the first years of its incorporation as Chatham, but no records prior to 1720 are found. That year Daniel Legg was employed to teach school, and taught two years. In 1722 Samuel Taylor was sent to the general court with a petition "to consider the low estate of the town, and exempt it from fine for keeping only a schooldame." In 1723 Mr. Legg was again schoolmaster, and the full year was divided as follows: nine weeks at Robert Nickerson's, nine at John Ryder's, nine at Ensign Nickerson's, nine at Thomas Doane's, nine at Joseph Harding's, and seven at Ensign Sears'; he to " diet around" and have his mending done. The records are silent concerning his washing.

In 1732 John Crowell was schoolmaster; in 1734, Thomas Doane; and in 1737 two were hired - John Hallett and John Collins. Others who followed were: David Nickerson in 1738, Richard Mayo in 1747, and Thomas Paine in 1760. James Ryder taught in 1762 for ;^210, old tenor. In 1768 the town was divided into four sections and the number of teachers increased. Captain Joseph Doane and Seth Smith were chosen to seat a teacher in the northeast quarter of the town; George Godfrey and Joseph Atwood in the southeast quarter; John Hawes and Samuel Taylor in the southwest; and Paul Crowell and Barnabas Eldridge in the northwest quarter. Now the schools as- sumed more definite boundaries, and in 1800 the town had five sections or districts, and a school house was built in each. From this time the schools of the town advanced rapidly in number and in efficiency, until amply provided with thirteen public schools, and school committees elected to serve year by year were kept in continuous service. This number of districts was burdensome and expensive, but prior to 1840 no better arrangement was possible, giving each part of the town equal privileges. At this date the uniformity of text books became a necessity, and the officers prescribed, in part, what should be used, and urged their use.

In 1845, and for a few previous years, the appropriation of moneys had been about $1,200 yearly. In 1847 |more was urged, and the amount was raised to $1,800. Six hundred pupils were looking to the common school as their only means of education, and the friends of the schools urged larger appropriations and increased facilities. In 1850 the text books were supplied by the town to only those who could not purchase. In 1857 a perceptible advancement was discernible, and the interest increased the attendance to the necessity of opening one more school for three months during the winter.

In 1858, after much discussion and a fair trial of the plan in adjoining towns, the number of districts was reduced one-half, and a partial system of graded schools was adopted. A large building was erected at Chatham village for a grammar school and the intermediate departments, and a high school was even inaugurated in a small way. The grammar school, with a primary department, was also opened in South Chatham in a suitable new building. The Monomoy people had to be furnished with three months school because of their isolation. From this date the advancement of the public schools of Chatham to their present high grade was rapid.

In 1861, the attendance at the primaries was 362; at the South Chatham Grammer School, No. 2, 130; and at No. 1, Chatham village, 274. There were then four departments at the Chatham building - iiigh, grammar, and two intermediates; at South Chatham, two departments - grammar and primary; elsewhere in the town, seven primaries; and a school at Monomoy one-fourth of the year. At that date the annual expenditure for school purposes was $3,200. In 1862 the Monomoy house w^s sold and the other departments were further consolidated. In 1863 fruitless attempts were made to place the principal of the high school in full jurisdiction over the departments of the building. This year the increase in attendance required assistants in three primaries. In 1864 a primary school was opened in Washington Hall, and the high school was separately instituted. To this all scholars were to be admitted from any part of the town when they were properly advanced. The grammar department at South Chatham

A winter boys* school was opened in 1871, and termed the second department of grammar school No. 1. At South Chatham a similar department was organized in the new building.

About this date the school committee commenced the yearly publication of the names of meritorious pupils, and the town's people, pleased with the good reports, voted four thousand dollars for the schools. In 1872 the board appointed, as superintendent of the schools, D. H. Crowell. In 1874 a new primary building was erected at North Chatham, and the best of edifices had been provided in all sections but one. In 1879, in furtherance of the system, Prof. M. F. Daggett was chosen principal of the high school and subordinate departments, and he perfected the present excellent system, and is still retained.

In 1883 effective changes were made in text books, for which the public paid; and written examinations before advancement in grade were adopted. In 1885 text books upon hygiene were introduced. The expense of the schools in 1887 was $3,732.41. In 1888 the regular teachers were eleven - all educated at home, residents of the town, except the principal. What an example of the efficient school service now fully inaugurated by the town! Seven fine buildings in five sections of the town accommodate the present population.

In 1889 the town had twelve schools in seven buildings - the high, grammar, and intermediate at Chatham village; grammar, and primary at South Chatham; two primaries in the Atwood district, and two in the building in the eastern part of the village; one in West Chatham; one in North; and one at Chatham Port. The appropriation was $3,300 - the same as the previous year.

For several years prior to 1849, an academy furnished the means for a liberal private education; it stood just northwest of the present village. After the closing of the academy Joshua G. Nickerson built a seminary called the Granville Seminary, just north of the village, which after a few years was converted into a dwelling, and is now the home of Owen Oneal. The high school, aided by the two grammar departments, now fully supplies the wants of the town.

Civil History. - The loss of the records of Chatham prior to 1693 forbids a history prior to that date. It is evident that a town settled in 1665 must have had a civil history prior to the opening of the records; it is known that in 1686, under the name of Monomoy, the town was required to send grand jurors, and was asked to send a deputy in 1691. The records show thorough action at the town meetings after 1693. In 1696 a singular vote was made at town meeting - that every male who was deficient in killing the number of blackbirds and crows required, should " clear the way to go to mill and go to Nauset." This was a penalty, and the delinquent was compelled to work on the road if he defaulted. In 1699 the body politic sent Rev. Jonathan Vickery to Boston with a petition that Monomoyick be incorporated a town, and have its bounds set with Harwich.

The exposure of the coast of Chatham led, in 1712, to the military order that until otherwise ordered, no men of the foot company be taken from town. This was in answer to a petition from the inhabitants who feared French privateers. In May, 1723, no deputy was sent, and it was more from political disagreement than any other cause. The return in default of sending the deputy said, "the town not combined to send," and "town not qualified."

The civil regulations of the town were sometimes queer; and that relating to the ringing of hogs was very strict. In 1728 the law was made that no one should mow hay on the beach until August 26th, and the sheep were even compelled to swelter in their woolen garbs until just before the first of June. The vigilance of the inhabitants was exercised in 1768 by the most stringent rules: "that strangers who came for clams should be summarily dealt with." In 1774 and 1776 strong resolutions were passed against using imported tea; but in 1776 the town voted in the negative on the adoption of the declaration of independence. Notwithstanding this vote, the town was loyal; the whig party far outnumbered the tory. In 1779 the vote was to support the convention called, and the stipulated list of prices was adopted. The church and schools had to have their enactments during the trying times of war, and it was by the most economical methods that the town was enabled to fulfill all its requirements. In 1749 it was necessary to fence the minister's land, and in town meeting it was enacted that nineteen men build two lengths each of the fence, and "Thomas Doane and Nehemiah Harding each bring one post extra."

The embargo made in President Jefferson's administration was a trying period in the civil history of Chatham. Nearly four-score plants for the manufacture of salt dotted the shores, and the check to the industry was severely felt. Meetings were held to petition against the act, and the feeling became so intense that the town recorded a majority of its votes against the war of 1812.

The municipal proceedings of the town were not unusual during the years just prior to the election of Abraham Lincoln in 1860. When the requisition for men to put down the rebellion was made, then the loyalty of the people was demonstrated. Its parties are mainly those which have predominated in the Commonwealth, the republican largely in the ascendency. The management of its poor has been commendable from the first, and the action of the town, while stringent, has greatly benefitted the chronic tendency to this unfor- tunate state of society. As a body politic it erected a monument to the soldiers who fell in the rebellion of 1861-5; and party spirit does not divide in what pertains to the welfare of the whole. The records have, from 1693, been remarkably well transcribed, and are better kept now than in most of the towns of the county, the present clerk and treusurer, Levi Atwood, using several volumes in which to record, in superior style, every transaction.

The deputies of the town, while acting alone in the election of the representative, with their terms of service beyond one year, have been: Joseph Doane, elected in 1768. served 10 years; Joseph Howes, in 1780; Richard Sears, 1781, 19 years; in 1807, Reuben Ryder, 3 years; in 1827, Richard Sears, jr., 2; 1829, Joseph Atwood, 3; 1830, Joseph Young, 3; 1832, Joshua Nickerson, 5; 1834, Freeman Nickerson, 5; 1837, Seth Nickerson; 1838, Josiah Kendrick, 4; 1839, Thomas Sparrow; 1840, Samuel Doane, 3, and Henry Gorham; 1841, James Gould, 2; 1842, Ephraim Taylor, 2; 1844, Joseph Young, jr.; 1845, John Taylor; 1846, Watson Hinckley; 1847, O. A. Nickerson; 1849, Lothrop Bearse, 2; 1853, Samuel Doane; 1854. Richard Gould, 2; 1856, Heman Smith; 1857, Thomas Dodge. After Chatham was placed in a district with other towns, the representatives have been stated in the proper county chapter.

The treasurers have been: William Nickerson in 1693, for 8 years; in 1701, Thomas Atkins was reelected for 7 years; 1708, William Crowell; 1710, Ensign W. Nickerson; 1711, Nathaniel Covel; 1713, Richard Sears; 1714, Thomas Hawes; 1719, John Collins; 1721, Thomas Doane; 1723, Nathaniel Nickerson; 1725, Joseph Harden; 1726, Elisha Mayo; 1729, Richard Knowles; 1731, Thomas Nickerson; 1732, John Atkins; 1733, Daniel Sears; 1735, Paul Crowell; 1736, James Covel; 1740, Paul Crowell; 1748, James Crowell; 1752, Paul Sears; 1753, Daniel Sears, jr.; 1769, Nathan Bassett; 1775, Richard Sears; 1785, John Emery; 1789, Joseph Doane. Since 1791 the office of treasurer has been filled by the town clerk.

The clerks of the town have been: 1693, William Nickerson; 1708, Thomas Atkins; 1714, Daniel Sears; 1722, Samiiel Stewart; 1732, Thomas Nickerson; 1749, James Covel; 1752, Paul Sears; 1753, Daniel Sears, jr.; 1769, Nathan Bassett; 1775, Richard Sears; 1785, John Emery; 1789, John Doane; 1790, Joseph Doane; 1797, Nathan Bassett, jr.; 1803, John Hawes; 1824, Reuben C. Taylor; 1827, Richard Sears, jr.; 1828, David Godfrey; 1838, David Atwood; 1839, Christopher Taylor; 1843, Nathaniel Snow; 1844, Ephraim Taylor; 1847, Josiah Mayo; and in 1873, Levi Atwood was elected, and was acceptably filling the offices of treasurer and clerk in 1890.

Villages. - The principal and most important center of the town is the village of Chatham, situate in the southeastern part- The streets environ the ponds of that part of the town, and their windings are only equaled by the undulations of the area over which they lead. It had no group of houses in 1800 by which it was designated from the other portions of the town. No post office was established for a score of years subsequently, and at that time nothing betokened the present flourishing village. The fishing facilites and sites for salt works soon after 1800 brought many families, whose descendants are now the active business men.

This beach many years ago was still further east, forming a good harbor along the village, but it has since formed nearer the main land. The first wooden light houses erected here in 1808 were washed away and their site is now covered with water. Others of brick were erected in 1841, and the encroachments of the sea has left them in ruins, as appears in the illustration. The scene shows the beach east and north of the ruins at a point where the sea has made, in the contour of the coast, those great changes described in chapter I. The present double light was located in 1877 just west of these ruins, at the left of the picture.

The Collins, Sears, Bangs, Hamilton and Atwood families mostly owned the lands now embraced by the village. Aged citizens who can recall the houses here in 1805, place Richard Howes, Joseph Dex- ter and Eliphalet Hamilton, with his three sons - Seth, Nehemiah and Melatiah - east of Mill pond. Somewhere here were also Samuel and Cyrenius Collins. John Hammond lived near the lights; also Josiah Harding and Isaac Hardy. At the head of Mill pond were the houses of Jonatham Hamilton and Captain Mulford Howes; opposite the present store of Ziba Nickerson was the residence of Richard Hamilton, and opposite the Traveler's Home the house of Richard Gould. The Atwoods were on the road to Stage harbor, and near Oyster pond.

Very soon after, in this village of 1805 - if it could be thus denominated - we hear of Eben Bangs, Henry Gorham, Elra Eldridge, David Bearse, Josiah Mayo, Joshua Nickerson, Joseph Loveland and David, Josiah and Richard Gould. At the south the bluffs of Morris island and the long neck called Harding's beach are plainly visible; on the east the long beach called Nauset connects with Monomoy point, and beyond this is the Atlantic.

The earliest industry of the village - always excepting fishing - was the manufacture of salt, which soon after 1800 received considerable attention. These works, interspersed with flakes for drying fish, nearly covered the shore from the Sears' plant northeast of the village, southerly to the lights, around the shores of both ponds, and the rivers connecting them with the harbor. Enoch Howes, Henry Gorham, Elra Eldridge, Zenas Nickerson and Isaac Hardy had salt works on the beach east of the village; Joseph Loveland and Joshua Nickerson had extensive works east and south of Mill pond; on the north side of Mitchell's river were the works of Joseph, John and Sears Atwood, and Micajah Howes, and at the head of the pond those of Isaiah Lewis; on the neck, next to Stage harbor, those of William Hamilton, Chri.stopher Taylor and Elisha, Joesph and Isaiah Harding; next west those of Thomas Smith; on the point next to Oyster pond those of Reuben Eldridge and Samuel Taylor; David Godfrey, Solomon Atwood and David Atwood on south side of Oyster pond; Edward Kendrick and Nathaniel Snow on the north side of the pond; Collins Taylor and Benjamin Buck on north side of the river; Nehemiah Doane and Samuel Doane east of these. Some of these works were in use until I860.

Shipbuilding found a place among the vats and flakes. The sloop Canton, of fourty-six tons, was built in 1828 on the east shore north of the lights, for Barzillai Harding, who ran her thirty years as a packet to Boston. About 1835 the schooners /^ze; aTid Gentile and Emulous were built here; and at the marine railway after 1860 the schooner T. & C. Hawes was built by James Cannon for Oliver Eldridge. The schooner Deposit was built just above the village by Anthony Thacher.

In 1856 the present Eldridge house was built by Isaac B. Young, who, after experience at Lynn in the manufacture of shoes, started a factory here. The shed in the rear of the house was then attached.

and was the shop. He employed thirty hands, and for six years made and sold goods throughout the county. The factory was discontinued in 1863.

There were stores in this village early, to supply the wants of the few people, but that of Sears & Hardy, about 1830, close to the old lights, was the first general store of importance. After a few years Josiah Hardy became the proprietor, and about 1851 Ziba Nickerson was interested for two years. In 1853 Captain Isaiah Harding had an interest for seven years, when James Tripp became a partner with his father-in-law, Josiah Hardy. Josiah Hardy and Isaiah Harding added to the trade lumber, wood, coal, and cured and packed fish. This, at that time the only general, and by far the most extensive, store of the town, was near the present flag staff by the old lights. This firm brought in the schooner Favorite, the first coal to the town. The firm of Hardy & Tripp, after a few years, sold to William Hitchings, who sold to Parker Nickerson in 1872; then Robert Miller purchased the building.

From the old store by the lighthouses, in 1853, Ziba Nickerson, on his present site, built the store, and engaged in general merchandise. Besides this, he has been long engaged in the lumber and shingle trade, which he was gradually closing out in 1889; he continues one of the heavy coal yards of the village. In 1854 a telegraph line, now a branch of the Western Union, to Boston, was inaugurated at his store, of which he was the operator many years, succeeded by his son, W. L. Nickerson.

The store of Solomon E. Hallett, on Main street, is the continuation of a dry goods business which his mother, Charlotte W. Hallett, commenced in 1840.

The store of furnishing goods and clothing, by Marcus W. Howard, was started in February, 1873, in the building now occupied by Doctor Robinson's drug and E. T. Bearse's jewelry store. He continued there until his present store building was completed, in 1885.

Sullivan Rogers is one of the oldest business men of the street. In 1846 he began sheet-iron and tin working in the store of Isaiah Lewis, where Erastus Nickerson now is; it stood on the knoll east of Ziba Nickerson's. In 1848 he moved into Samuel H. Young's shop, next west of where Mr. Rogers now lives. After three years he bought and removed to his present store. In 1882 he remodeled the building into its present commodious shape. In 1889 his son, Josiah M. Rogers, become a partner, forming the firm of Sullivan Rogers & Son, dealing in stoves, hardware and house furnishing goods.

The Boston store, by John J. Howes, is exclusively a dry goods establishment. He started in the Library building, in April, 1886, and removed his goods to his present store in July, 1887, purchasing the building the following month. The store building was erected in 1881 for a post office, and was occupied by Charles E. Ellis in 1885 for dry goods; R. F. Smith carried it on from October, 1886, to its purchase by Mr. Howes.

Hattie E. Gill started a millinery store here in 1879, and after an absence of two years, again opened a store in 1886. After a business of one year, she built her present store and removed across the street to it, where the ladies find boots and shoes, ladies' wear and millinery goods. She enlarged her buildings in 1889.

Samuel M. Atwood has an extensive market on the east side of Main street. In this he began in March, 1889. He moved the building from West Chatham in 1887, where it had been a store, occupied by Captain Ephraim P.Steele. He has followed the business here since 1855, and is one of the oldest active men of the street. His customers are regularly served by wagon. He has retailed ice for the past twenty-five years, and is the only one in town so engaged. He has a fresh pond on his farm, from which he obtains his supply. He resides on the Richard Sears farm. Another important market further east on Main street is that of W. F. Harding. In July, 1888, he placed a stock of groceries and general provisions in his store.

An important factor of the Chatham business is the bakery of Kimble R. Howes. His main building was erected for the post office of Josiah Mayo, near Sullivan Rogers' store. In 1884 Mr. Howes moved and enlarged it, converting it into a bakery, and the same year he purchased and moved to the former bakery building the south addition, which gives him ample room for his business.

In 1871 Erastus Nickerson purchased an interest in the marine railway, which he ran about two years; but having had eight years' experience in the grocery trade at Booth Bay, Maine, he preferred that. In December, 1873, he purchased where he is, near the Congregational church, and commenced his present grocery business. He has greatly enlarged and beautified the building.

Isaiah and Simeon Harding had a store over by the shore, which business they sold to Andrew Harding in 1865. Mr. Harding had started a store on Water street in 1864, but bought and combined the two. In 1871, in connection with his stock of paints and oils, he started the painting business with H. M. Smith.

Atlantic Hall was the name given to a building, which was burned, near the Universalist church. Another was erected and called Washington Hall, which, after the erection of the town hall, was sold in 1879 to E. M. Nickerson, who moved it across the street and converted it in-to a billiard hall and bowling alley.

and others plant and harvest lucious oysters; we arrive at the town clerk's oflBce, kept in the general store of Levi Atwood. The next business place, to the south, that of Zenas Nickerson, was the old school house, over by the lights. He moved it in 1871, and opened a general grocery and provision store. In 1868 he began trade in flour and grain, and now, with the coal business, the wind mill near by to be run, the interest he retains in Union wharf and its storehouses, he has enough business for himself and his sons. Next, at the left, is the Crystal Spring laundry, of which Walter S. H. Eldridge has been owner and proprietor since 1885.

At the foot of the street, on Stage harbor, is the marine railway of Oliver E. Eldridge and Thomas S. Arey, doing business under the firm name of Eldridge & Arey. In 1863 Oliver Eldridge, father of Oliver E., purchased the railway at Nantucket, transported and placed it at the Union wharf, a short distance to the west. In 1877 this firm purchased and removed it to its present site, by the side of which, in 1879, the wharf, called Steamboat, was built. This street has long been prominent in the history of the village. Joseph Atwood very early had a store in his house, and more than half a century ago built a building for his trade, and that was subsequently moved to the comer near Levi Atwood 's store, where it is used as a dwelling. Jame S. Atwood also had an ancient store on this street.

On the street opening south from the Methodist Episcopal church, John H. Taylor, in 1879, opened a general store. In 1889 he added undertaking, and practices arterial embalming. In 1863 Benjamin S. Cahoon opened business on Depot street, keeping paints and oils, and in 1879 added undertaking.

In 1860 the street in front of the town hall - an extension of Main street - was opened. The previous year Washington Taylor had purchased the site and erected his present fine buildings. He began a store in 1850 on the old street north of Oyster pond, and removed to the new one in 1859.

In 1862 Collins Howes, with J. H. Tripp and Asa Nye, jr., as partners, opened a large outfitters' store on Harding's beach. Ample buildings had been erected, also a wharf, on the bay side. In 1864 Mr. Nye went to Booth Bay, Me., and in 1866 Augustus L. Hardy became a partner, under the firm name of J. H. Tripp & Co. In 1875 Hardy and Tripp moved part of the business to Hyannis, and Collins Howes has continued here since. In its palmy days this wharf and store was the place for drying and curing the cargoes of nearly a score of vessels, and considerable of this business is yet centered here.

Kent & Atkins have a general store north of the depot; Parker Nickerson started a general store on the shore in 1874, bringing goods from his old store; Horace Jones continues the hardware business of

A village like Chatham has many social circles, and the most important will only find a place in this village history. St. Martin's Lodge, A. F. & A. M., now numbers forty-seven members. It commenced work January 27, 1872, under a dispensation, and its first elective officers were: Benjamin D. Giflford, W. M.; Harrison Hamilton, S. W.; Solomon Nickerson. J. W.; and Albert Thacher, secretary. Work with charter began March 12, 1873. The masters have been: Harrison Hamilton, in 1873-5; Parker Nickerson, 1875-8; Rufus K. Nickerson, 1878-80, and 1882-4; Oliver E. Eldridge, 1880-2; and B. D. Gififord, from 1884 to 1889. Parker Nickerson has been the secretary for several years.

The library was opened November 28, 1887, soon after the formation of the association by the liberal-minded citizens. In February, 1889, the reading-room and library properties were presented to the town. The privileges granted are appreciated, and the 640 volumes of valuable works and files of journals are sought by the public.

The enterprising ladies of the village established an effective branch of the W. C. T. U. in April. 1885. It now flourishes with over sixty members.

Mutual insurance societies here are in a prosperous condition. The Royal Conclave of K. & L., Atlantic, No. 51, was established October 8, 1889, with thirty-seven members.

The eldest mutual insurance society is the A. L. of H., No. 937, established May 12, 1882. In an existence of seven years only one of its sixty members has died. C. A. Freeman was its first commander and has served every year except. 1885, when Gains Mullett was elected.

Still another mutual social circle was instituted December 26, 1888, having for its object the payment of benefits only at death. It is the New England Order of Protection, holding its social meetings every fortnight at Masonic Hall.

At present the village has two houses for the entertainment of travelers. In 1860, Joseph Nickerson built the Ocean House, now the private residence of W. R. Taylor, on Main street, and Isaiah Harding kept it one year. It was then occupied as a dwelling three years by Timothy Loveland. In 1867 Isaiah Harding purchased it and kept it five years. It was sold to Charles H. Smith, who kept it as a hotel for a few years. In the autumn of 1871 Atkins Eldridge opened the Eldridge House, near the town hall. His widow has continued the house since his death, in 1885. Sylvester K. Small, in 1884, opened to the public, the "Travelers Home." It is on an elevation on Main street, well toward the shore. In 1885 he added to the building, in

James Hedge was appointed postmaster at Chatham, January 1, 1798. He was succeeded by Eleazer Cobb, appointed January 1, 1801. The next incumbent was Ezra Crowell, appointed March 12, 1802, succeeded February 15, 1821, by Theophilus Crowell. June 8, 1822, Josiah Mayo was appointed. He kept the office first in his kitchen, and afterward in a building prepared for the purpose. June 5, 1861, Ziba Nickerson was appointed and kept the office at his store. In 1881 A. M. Bearse was made postmaster, and moved the office to the Boston store building. In 1885 M. W. Howard was appointed and removed the office to his store. B. D. Giflford was appointed in June, 1889.

This important village is connected with the outside world by the Chatham railroad, via Harwich. Of the one hundred thousand dollars stock for its construction the town of Chatham holds thirty-one thousand dollars; the remainder is owned by individuals. The Old Colony company runs the road, retaining seventy per cent, of the receipts. The road adds much to the wealth and business of the village. Fine depot and freight buildings were erected in 1887, at the completion of the road, and Augustus L. Hardy is the agent.

West Chatham is a genuine New England village, situated just west of Chatham village, south of the center, and in the most fertile portion of the town. The old burying places of the town are northeast of the village, and the settlement of this area between the grounds and the Harwich line was made early. The one street extends from the environs of Chatham to those of South Chatham, a distance of nearly two miles, lined with fine residences. Many of the inhabitants have formerly been engaged in fishing, buttheindustry is now nearly discontinued, and agriculture, including cranberry culture, occupies their attention.

The first store in West Chatham was kept by Stephen G. Davis, about 1830. It was on the bank of Oyster Pond river. He carried a general stock of goods and cured fish. After several years, he went to Boston, and later became cashier of the Shawmut Bank. Daniel Howes succeeded him at West Chatham in 1849, where is now the store building erected in 1882, which has since been kept by P. Eldora Harding. L. D. Buck started a grocery in 1865, which he continues in the west part of the little village. Samuel Doane had a small store prior to 1880 where John K. Kendrick resides. The last mentioned place is historic as the site of a post office for two terms. Daniel Howes was the first postmaster in anoldstore where the present office is located; he began about 1849. He was succeeded by Samuel Doane in his store where John K. Kendrick lives, and who, in 1881, succeeded

Chatham Port is a neighborhood sparsely settled over Nickerson's neck- - between Pleasant bay and Rider cove, - and at the south of the cove may be found a considerable community. The name Chatham Port, considered a misnomer by some, was applied when the waters surrounding that part of the town furnished the best and safest harbors. The first permanent settlement of the town was established here in 1665, by William Nickerson, and very soon after by the Eldridge, Crowell, Ryder and other families. A short distance above the head of Ryder cove, on a mound in a valley south of Christopher Ryder's residence, is the site of the original William Nickerson's house; and near by, on burying hill, which was an Indian burial place, his ashes without doubt found their last resting place. The hill is over 150 feet above the sea level, and among the many mounds only three are marked by stones; those of Zenas, John and Elizabeth Ryder, who died in 1766, of smallpox. A few burials were subsequently made here, but the remains have been removed to more modern cemeteries. It was originally on William Nickerson's home farm, but has been reserved in subsequent transfers.

From burying hill, now within the premises of S. A. Bassett, can be seen the entire landscape of the north part of the town and the encircling waters of the bays and coves; and to the south may be seen the greatly improved building, once the old parsonage in which Rev. Ephraim Briggs, and later. Rev. Stetson Raymond, lived to serve in the old church which stood near by. Long ago the elements of two centuries erased all evidence of early habitations; but one of later date remains as a connecting link with the past. It is the small house built by the grandfather of Ensign Nickerson, sr., on the neck, and was moved and refitted by the latter in his lifetime. It is now owned by S. M. Nickerson, of Chicago, one of Ensign's grandsons, and stands near the site sold by that gentleman to a Boston company, who are erecting there a fine summer hotel - the only hotel at Chatham Port. The old ordinary does not appear among the former institutions of the village; but as the old stores were permitted to " draw wines," none was needed. Ezra Crowell, called " Esquire Crowe," kept a tavern later, on the old Queen Anne road, near the meeting house within sight, at the southwest.

But little can be gleaned concerning the stores of the last century; they were few and small, and contained the heavy goods needed for fishing. The Nickersons and Eldridges had primitive stores then, but that first remembered by the living was by Mrs. Ensign Nickerson in 1829. She was familiarly called "Aunt Becky," and kept a small store in her house for forty years. In 1849 Christopher Ryder started a store at his residence, and is still in trade. Isaac B. and Joseph Young built and opened a store in 1852 on the corner, and revived the fishing business; but after four years, on account of the closing of the harbor's mouth by sand, they discontinued the latter branch. The store was sold to Enos Kent, who, after a few years, removed the goods to his house. He died in 1875, and the business was closed. H. Harding, jr., opened a store in his house in 1889.

The Cape Cod, a schooner of sixty-five tons, was built at this village by Samuel Moody, for Lumbert Nickerson,and was launched into the bay from the premises of Ensign Nickerson.

For salt manufacturing, the coves and bays of Chatham Port afforded the best of facilities, which . were improved soon after 1800. Reuben Ryder is said to have first erected works on the shore of Pleasant bay, and his sons, Isaiah and Christopher, continued them. The second was erected by Ensign Nickerson, sr. These were succeeded as rapidly as the works could be built by Kimble Ryder, his son, Kimble Ryder, jr., Stephen Smith and his son - all on Ryder's river. Still later Ezra Crowell built extensive works on the same river and sold to Jonah and Joseph Young, the latter being an early, manufacturer elsewhere. Joshua Crowell, James Ryder and Captain Young soon established works, succeeded by Joseph, Rufus and Samuel H. Young. Edward Kent also erected works here. On Crowe'-s pond, in 1825, we find the works of Josiah Kendrick and Jonathan Eldridge; on Ryder's cove the works of John Taylor and Reuben Snow; and further east, in the old harbor district, Myrick Nickerson made salt. Later still Ensign Nickerson, jr., the father of Orick and Samuel M., erected works on Crowe's pond; also on the bay side, which were continued until their decay in 1877. David H. Crowell confidently asserts that in 1835 around Ryder's cove he could count within sight twentyeight wind mills for pumping brine. The only works standing in 1889 were those of Jesse Nickerson, who once owned eighteen hundred feet, and which were more or less used until 1886.

In 1828 Joseph Young established the only block factory ever on the Cape. He started a water mill in 1819, just south of the corner near David Crowell's. In this he first placed, in 1821, cards for dressing cloth. Mr. Young next started the block-making in this building, but made them mostly by hand. In 1847 Isaac B. Young, his son, formed a co-partnership with him, after having completed machinery to manufacture by water. This is claimed to have been the first manufactory of blocks by machinery in the state. Zenas L. Marston, Samuel Young and George Young were admitted to partnership and the business was successful for a period of ten years; then others bad commenced the manufacture and this firm lost six thousand dollars in stock by the burning of their storehouse. The business was dis-

A post-office at North Chatham supplied this people before the appointment of Enos Kent as postmaster for Chatham Port. He began the office in his store in 1862, and continued it until 1876, the year of his death. His daughter, Emma P., served until 1878, when David H. Crowell, who was appointed, removed the office to his residence. In July, 1889, he was succeeded by Osborn Nickerson, who keeps the office at his house.

North Chatham is a beautiful village situated in the northeastern part of the township. The surface of the entire neck between the Bassing place and the sea is uneven and undulating, but the prettiest residences have been erected upon the highest knolls and command a fine view of the harbor, shoals and ocean beyond. Strong island, Nauset beach, and the irregular shores of Orleans on the north, relieve the vision from the vast expanse of ocean, and the village is becoming noted as a summer resort. The territory was early settled by the families who succeeded William Nickerson and those who came across from old Eastham. Fishing, coasting and foreign service have been the principal occupations of the inhabitants, and in no other portion of the town comparatively are found more or a better representation of these worthy callings than among the retired and active sons of North Chatham. Other industries have not been neglected. In the period between 1825 and 1835 the brig (Ta^/nVr was built near Salathiel Nickerson's shore; and the schooners Classic, Luna, Bertha, Anson, Exit, and Philantropic were launched near the old wharf. This wharf was built by Smith Eldridge about 1830, or prior, and was broken up by the sea in 1851. Near there, in 1833, Orick Nickerson had a coasting schooner of eighty tons built; and in 1834 another of similar capacity. The builder was Anthony Thacher, son of William, who was the fir.st to build vessels in the town.

A store was built with the wharf by Mr. Eldridge, both of which were purchased in 1834 by Ensign Nickerson, jr. The business was conducted by Orick Nickerson for fifteen years, when he removed part of the store building to Monomoy point, where, it is doing service as a dwelling, and sold the wharf and real estate to Zenas Atkins. At that time Richard, Salathiel, Caleb and Myrick Nickerson, Zenas Taylor, Joshua Atkins, Mulford Howes and others, were largely engaged in fishing. The available anchorage then was dotted with vessels when home from the Banks, and the shores were lined with drying flakes. After the interruption of this branch of thrift by the destruction of the wharf and closing of the harbor by shifting sands, another wharf was built in 1855, by Zenas Atkins, Christopher Taylor, Clement Kendrick and several

Others in smaller shares. This wharf and the fitful revival of the fishing interest were eflFectually destroyed in a few years from the same cause.

Prior to these wharves and in connection with the fishing interest the manufacture of salt was important. The stores around North Chatham and the attention of the people were alike fully occupied in its production. From Myrick Nickerson's works on Ryder's river there were to the east those of Prince Harding, John Ryder, Benjamin Dunbar, Joseph Taylor, Zenas Taylor and Salathiel Nickerson; at Old Harbor were those of Timothy Loveland, sr. - five thousand feet - Joshua Atkins, Allen Nickerson and Caleb Nickerson; and to the south of these the shore was lined with the works of Thomas Howes, Richard Nickerson and others; while well toward the village of Chatham were the extensive works of Richard Sears. The evidence of the existence of this long shore line of salt vats has been obliterated, and but few are living of the enterprising spirits who owned or managed them.

- The first store here, of which reliable tradition speaks, was one kept in 1820 by Isaiah Nye and William Hamilton. In 1829 Mr. Nye moved, and started a store on the main road near the old meeting house, Mr.. Hamilton continuing the first until he sold it to Joshua Nickerson, who in turn sold it to Captain Benjamin T. Freeman in 1853. Mr. Freeman continued in the store on the shore a few years, then erected and removed to the store now occupied by his son, C. A. Freeman, who succeeded him in 1884. After the store connected with the old wharf another store at the new wharf was kept by Zenas Atkins several years. Among others, Thacher Ryder was a promient merchant here, opening a store at Old Harbor soon after 1820. At his death, in 1863, his son-in-law, David H. Crowell, of Chatham Port, removed the goods to his residence, where he not only sold them out, but continued in the business several years.

The only tavern regularly kept in the village was by John King, who sold in 1803 to Timothy Loveland, father of the present resident of that name, who discontinued in 1805. This old stand is situated opposite the present Baxter House, a beautiful summer hotel, refitted in 1886 by Hattie Baxter.

Isaiah Nj'e was the first postmaster at North Chatham, appointed January 18, 1828. He kept the office at the store of Nye & Hamilton. Shadrack N. Howland, appointed March 19, 1831, was the next incumbent; Joshua Nickerson, jr., succeeded him April 17, 1837; and Thacher Ryder, in 1854, was postmaster, with the office on the north side of Old Harbor. In 1861 Captain Benjamin T. Freeman, as postmaster, removed the office to his store, and in 1884 he was succeeded by C. A. Freeman, his son, who continues it at the same place.

The distance from North Chatham to the principal center of the town is short, and the wayside cottages are so thickly interspersed over the landscape that the two villages may be almost called one.

South Chatham is not as old a village as West, but excels it in many ways. It is further from the larger villages on either side, and its "business is more confined within itself. A fine school building, erected for three departments, and a new depot greet the eye of the traveler who alights from the train. As the visitor walks westerly along the well-kept street, he sees the store of Joshua Eldridge, who for forty years has been engaged in a small grocery trade. The first store here of importance was erected in 1839 by Levi Eldridge, where he opened a general stock. In 1843 his brother, Hiram T., assumed the business which, at his death in 1864, was resumed by the original proprietor. This is not all in which Levi Eldridge is engaged. In 1888, with his son-in-law, Cyrus W. Kelley, he opened a coal yard at the depot, and removing here their lumber yard from Deep Hole, the firm now keep in stock coal, lumber, wood, hay and harnesses.

The fishing business was formerly the leading industry here, and many years ago Levi Eldridge, with others, erected a wharf on the bay, at a point just over the line of Harwich, where fish were cured and packed. After a few years he became sole owner, repaired the wharf after the ice had once nearly destroyed it, then gradually closed out his fishing interests, and allowed the wharf to go to pieces in 1887. Levi Eldridge and John G. Doane, in 1866, had six vessels in the cod and mackerel fishing, for which they cured -and packed, and packed the mackerel for seven other vessels. After the death of Mr. Doane the business was continued by Mr. Eldridge, aided by his son, who died in 1884. Then he sold the vessels and closed this branch in 1887. The statistics of this one firm would be a fair index of the decline of this industry throughout the Cape. In 1881, Mr. Eldridge, as inspector for his and other's fish at that wharf, reported 8,932 barrels of his own mackerel; in 1882 he had 6,983 barrels; in 1883 only 4,304 barrels; in 1884, 4,216; in 1885, 2,040; and in 1886 but a very few. Now agriculture, especially cranberry culture, commands the attention of the citizens.

A general business in merchandise is still continued by Levi Eldridge at the old site. A little west of him, opposite the G. A. R. Hall, is the grocery store of Elisha M. Eldridge, who followed fishing summers, and mercantile business winters, until 1876, when he established here a permanent trade. The hall now owned and occupied by F. D. Hammond Post, No. 141, was erected about thirty years ago by a stock company and was called Excelsior Hall. In 1885 the Post purchased it, and have a flourishing organization, which is comprised of members from Chatham and surrounding towns.

A post office was needed here, and in 1862 Levi Eldridge was appointed postmaster, placing the office at his store. He was succeeded in 1885 by Joshua Eldridge, who removed the boxes and details to his store further east. In October, 1889, Francis S. Cahoon was appointed.

The only distinctive religious society of the Village is the Come- Outers, as they are vulgarly called, and this also includes members from other localities. As this is probably the only mention this sect will have, although there are a few in the south of Dennis, and, perhaps in other towns, it is just to explain that the members have come out from other religious organizations, not agreeing with them in forms of worship.

Pilgrim Library was instituted here February 5, 1875, and now contains 516 volumes. It is kept at the store of Levi Eldridge, and M. E. Kelley is librarian.

The agent of this station of the Chatham railroad, appointed in 1887, is Alfred A. Eldridge. The beautiful rolling fields of this part of the town, the proximity of the village to Chatham bay, and the thrift of its business men, render South Chatham important among the villages.