Essex County, Massachusetts - Chapter 9: Town of Marblehead, 1922

In the southeastern part of Essex county, Massachusetts, lies the historic and unique peninsula known as Marblehead. It is sixteen miles out from Boston. This township, comprising about 3,700 acres, measures near four miles from northeast to southwest, by from one and a half to two miles in width.

Between the "Neck" and the main land is a fine sheet of water, forming one of the best harbors along the entire Atlantic coast. At the date of landing of the forefathers, the whole of the eastern Massachusetts coast was in possession of a tribe of Indians called Naumkeags, then under rule of the Squaw sachem of Saugus, widow of the great Nanepashemet, who in his day had been a powerful warrior, indeed controlling all other near-by tribes. But war and disease had thinned out the ranks of what had been a very large Indian tribe, just before white men saw these shores for the first time. The great conflict had occurred in 1615. In 1619 the enemy had besieged them, and in this movement chief Nanepashement was killed.

In 1621 a party from the Plymouth Colony, while ranging over this section, came across some of the old Indian forts. Winslow's account reads: . .

Having gone three miles we came to a place where corn had been newly gathered, a house pulled down, and the people gone. A mile from hence Nanepashemet, their king, in his life time had resided. His house was not like others; but a scaffold was largely built with poles and planks, some six foot from the ground and a house upon that, being situated on the top of a hill. Not far from hence, in a bottom, we came to a fort built by the deceased king the manner thus: There were poles, some thirty or forty feet long, stuck in the ground as thick as they could be set one by another, and with them they enclosed a ring some thirty or forty feet over. A trench, breast-high, was digged on each side; one way there was to get to it with a bridge. In the midst of this palisade stood the frame of a house wherein, being dead, he lay buried. About a mile hence we came to such another, but seated on the top of a hill. Here Nanepashemet was killed, none dwelling in it since his death.

After the death of this chief, his widow and her sons took charge of the affairs of their tribe. This squaw sachem lived in harmony with the white race, and at last really submitted to their government. Kind and docile in disposition, and generous to the wants of the whites, they in due time became the wards of the settlers. Forsaking the gods of good and evil, whom their fathers had taught them to worship, many were baptized and embraced the Christian religion.

Relics of the villages, graveyards, shell-heaps and Indian fort have been found from time to time, which, were other evidences wanting, are sufficient to prove the fact of this country having long been held by

Indian tribes. Utensils made of stone have been found, ^»mong tliem arrow-heads, spears, etc. The largest shell-heap is near the Pine Grove, on the line of the railroad to Salem. By actual measurement, this contained thirty cords of shells, placed in layers of stone and ashes.

"Small-pox Pasture" at the Harris farm and in fields on Atlantic avenue, excavations have been found, thought to indicate the former location of Indian wigwams. These cellars are always to be found near some reliable supply of water. They are from six to eight feet across, and were originally from two to four feet in depth. The Bessom pasture, near Salem harbor, was most likely the site of an Indian village. Excavations, supposed to have revealed the cellars of wigwams, are to be found every^vhere in the vicinity. An examination of this pasture revealed a grave in November, 1874, containing five skeletons, four being those of grown persons, the other that of a child. All but that of the child were in a remarkable state of preservation, one being very large, evidently that of a man. They were all buried on their backs, with their heads to the west, except one, which lay with its head to the east; the legs being drawn up so that the knees nearly touched the chin. Besides the skeletons, a lot of trinkets, an earthen cup, a small bell, two seashells, and a quantity of beads were found in the grave, proving conclusively that the bodies were buried after the white settlers came to America. As late as two hundred years ago, tradition says that Indians dwelt in Marblehead. In the Lower Division Pasture, the location of an Indian stockade is or was thirty years ago, mentioned by some of the older inhabitants. They received their information from aged citizens, then about to depart for their final rest, whose memories fondly cherished the traditions transmitted to them by their fathers.

While there appears to be a dispute as to what particular part of England the first settlers to Marblehead migrated, all agree that they were from that Kingdom, and that they arrived about 1629. They were largely fishermen, rough and ready at any kind of hard service. They came only about four years after Salem was first settled. This township included, at one time, all the territory embraced within present Essex county. In Colonial Records the name Marblehead occurs for the first time in 1633. In September, 1631, Isaac AUerton, having had difficulty with associates in the Plymouth colony, set sail in the "White Angel" for Marblehead, where he established a fishery station. Without going further into details as to just who the first settlers were, where they located and what became of them, it will suffice to state that such settlement was effected in the years from 1629 on, and that usually they were from England.

In 1636 the building of a college was talked of and really projected in Marblehead. At a town meeting held in Salem, in May, 1636, in an order for the division of Marblehead Neck, Mr. Humphreys made appHcation for some land beyond Forest river. Six gentlemen were to take it under advisement, and "to carefully consider of the premises, lest it should hinder the building of a College, which would mean many men's losse." October following, the Court granted £400 toward the erection of a college. The next year a committee was formed to look to its erection. This consisted of Mr. Humphrey and the Rev. Hugh Peters. The court subsequently ordered the college to be built at Cambridge, then called Newtowne, and to be named "Harvard College," in honor of the Rev. John Harvard, who made a bequest of several hundred pounds towards its erection, and donated his library for the use of the students.

The year 1636 was important to the history of Marblehead. It was in that year that the first ship was built there - a craft of 120 tons burden, and the third ship ever built in the colony. This vessel, known as the "Desire," for more than two years was used in the fishing business. Later, she went to the West Indies, and returning brought a cargo of "salt, cotton, tobacco, and negroes." These are supposed to have been the first slaves ever landed in the Colony. This was a fatal step, one later regretted by all New England times without number, when its result was finally observed, down as late as Lee's surrender to Grant, at the close of the Civil War.

In March, 1648, the town of Salem ordered: "That Marblehead, with the allowance of the General Court, shall be a town, and the bounds to be to the utmost extent of the land which was Mr. Humphries' farme, and soe all the land to the sea." May 2, 1649, the General Court granted the petition of the inhabitants, and the town was duly incorporated, as follows : "Upon the petition of the inhabitants of Marblehead for them to be a town of themselves, Salem having granted them to be a town of themselves, and appointed them the bounds of their town which the Court doth grant."

Shortly after the separation from Salem, a meeting of the inhabitants was held, and the following town officers were chosen, or, as the record expresses it, "These men were chosen for the town's business: Seven men or select men: Moses Maverick, Samuel Daliber, Francis Johnson, Nicholas Merritt, John Peach, senior; John Deverox, John Bartoll."

While this is the first meeting after incorporation, the records do not begin really until December 22, 1648, when it was "Agreed by the towne that all such as are strangers fishing or employed about fish shall pay unto the Towne for their and flake stufe and other conveniences, the sum of ten shillings a year for every man." In 1660 there were only sixteen houses in this township.

With the passing years many changes have been wrought in this town. Improvements have been made, they existed for decades, and then finally went to decay, as new and more modem methods obtained. Better street and road systems came, better architecture and different vocations followed. Coming down to the last annual report of the Board of Auditors, in 1921, the following were the officers in different departments: Selectmen: Thomas Loham, Jr., chairman; John N. Osborne, William J. Goldthwait, Samuel B. Graves and John G. Stevens; Town Clerk, William T. Litchman; Town Treasurer, Everett Paine; Collector of Taxes, J. Hooper Martin ; Assessors : Thomas Swasey, Herbert E. Ballard, Fred B. Litchman; Overseers of the Poor: William J. Goldthwait, chairman; Charles E. Stevens, James E. Gormon, Everett Chapman, Theodore M. Hutchinson; Fire Engineers: John T. Adams, chairman; William H. H. Atkins, Charles A. Goodwin, John T. High, Thomas H. Rhoades; Constable, Andrew M. Stone; Auditors: Fred R. Cooksey, chairman ; Emerson S. Clark, William R. Noyes ; Surveyor of Highways, E. Frank Chapman; Tree Warden, William H. Stevens; Moderator, Joseph W. Coates ; Fence Viewers : William Pierson, Everett C. Beesom ; Measurers of Wood and Bark: Walter P. Homan, George Doherty; Inspector of Animals, Everett C. Peach ; Sealer of Weights and Measures, Ambrose J. Brown; Harbor Master, Stacey H. Clark; Chief of Police, Fred W. Trasher ; Patrolmen : Reuben A. Paine, John H. Colly er, Thomas G. Sweet, Charles E. Taylor, Samuel I. Chapman, B. F. Doliber (2d), George P. Kelley, Fred W. Bailey, Harold L. Woodfin.

Vital statistics in 1920 - Marriages recorded, 92 ; licenses issued, 80 ; married in Marblehead, 60; licenses outstanding, 5; brides bom in Marblehead, 26; grooms born in Marblehead, 15; both bom in Marblehead, 19 ; brides foreign born, 8 ; grooms, foreign bom, 5 ; both foreign bora, 6. The town had an indebtedness at the end of 1920 amounting to $241,000, but at the close of that year, the books show payments amounting to $203,000, as follows: Bonds on water loans, $18,000; schoolhouse loans, $13,000; municipal lights loan, $2,000, and road improvements, $5,000.

The present system of water-works in Marblehead was Installed in 1886, and has been extended and improved with the passing years, until now it appears to be adequate to the demands of the municipality. The number of gallons of water pumped in 1920 was 233,000,000; average number of gallons per day, 636,000 ; average pound of coal per day used 2,636; coal for the year, 965,000. Gallons pumped with one pound of coal, 241.

A recent historical account says that the year 1667 proved disastrous to the people of Marblehead. Owing to the inclemency of the weather during most of the season when fish were plentiful, they were unable to venture out in their boats to any distance, and in several instances those who did so were lost. The court therefore, with considerate sympathy, voted to abate their proposition of the county tax for one year.

Times change, some features grow better, while others change for the worse. The custom of using intoxicating liquors as a beverage, which prevailed in all New England until within a comparatively short time, was pronounced at Marblehead during its early days. No vessel sailed from its harbors for long or day trips without a good supply of liquors. No boat arrived with its supply of fish without supplying something "to take" for the inner man. Even the functions of all the churches had to be toned up by "spirits."

The first school of this town was opened in 1675, by Edward Humphries, who received £40 yearly for instruction. In 1674 the town had one hundred and fourteen houses, all well filled.

In 1675 the war with the Indians, known as King Phihp's War, broke out, and lasted in all fury for three years, only ending with the death of King Philip. The whites were slaughtered in great numbers, and it appeared in 1677 as if the white race was to become extinct in the colony. Two Indians having been brought captives to Marbiehead, their fate was thus related by Increase Mather in a letter dated 23d of the fifth month, 1677: "Sabbath night was sennight, the women at Marblehead, as they came out of the meeting-house, fell upon the two Indians that were brought in captives, and in a tumultuous way, very barbarously murdered them. Doubtless if the Indians hear of this, captives among them will be served accordingly."

In 1747, a school for poor children was established by Robert Hooper Jr., who agreed to pay all expenses for salary of a teacher if the town would fit up and keep a suitable school room. This offer was gladly carried out, and thus it was that the poor children of the town had school opportunities. The place then contained about four hundred and fifty residences.

During 1768 nine vessels, with crews, were lost, and the following year fourteen other vessels met with like fate - one hundred and twentyone men and boys lost their lives. Besides these, many were washed overboard from boats on the homeward trips. A large number of widows and orphans were thus left to care for themselves, or to be kept by the town. These were among the darkest days ever experienced in Marblehead.

Human slavery existed in Marbiehead, as well as in other New England towns, at a very early day. In fact, nearly all of the more wealthy families owned one or more negroes. Colonel Lee, that great business factor in colonial days, owned many slaves, whom he employed in the work of loading and unloading his numerous vessels, as fast as they arrived from foreign ports. Slavery was then believed to be the proper and natural condition of the black race, and was fostered and encouraged. Church records disclose the fact that negroes were baptized and received into the church. Slave marriages are also there recorded for all three of the Marbiehead churches. Early newspaper files give further evidence of the slave conditions in Marbiehead. These notices appeared in the papers in 1724 and as late as 1756 :

Ran away from his master, Capt. Richard Trevett, of Marbiehead, a Ne^o man named Pompey, about twenty-two years of age; a Lusty tall fellow. He had on when he went away a striped home-spun jacket, cotton and Linen shirt, dark colored Kersey breeches, gray yam stockings, round-toed leather heel shoes and felt Hat.

Note - He deserted his master's service in the Shallop Ann at Plymouth. Whoever shall apprehend the said Runaway and him self safely convey to his said master at Marblehead or to Mr. Francis Miller in Boston, near the Green Dragon, shall have fifty shillings reward and all necessary charges paid.

To be sold by Jacob Fowle Esq., and Mrs. Susannah Palmer, administrators of the estate of John Palmer, late of Marblehead, deceased, a likely Negro man, about twenty-five years old, and a fine Negro boy about fourteen.

Ran away from Capt. John Diamond at Marblehead, on Tuesday, the 11th of September, instant, a Spanish Negro Fellow named "Cuffe" about twenty-five years old; speaks broken English, and can talk Spanish language. He is a tall slim fellow; had on a new felt Hat, striped home-spun Jackett, breeches, New Shoes with square Buckles. Whoever will bring or send the said Negro to Mr. Norwood, Inholder at Lynn shall have two dollars reward and all necessary charges paid. All Masters of vessels and others are cautioned not to conceal or carry off ths said Negro, as they would avoid the penalty of the law.

After England had imposed a tax on many articles used by her colonies, including tea shipped from India by England, the people at Marblehead voted that "the use of tea at a time when our inveterate enemies are causing it to be enforced on the American colonies in the most violent methods, even by armed bands, is no less an injury offered to the colonies by all who vend or purchase it than affording assistance to those enemies to raise revenues to pay dragoons who are to enslave us." It was also voted that "this town highly disapproves the vending or use of any India Tea." A tea committee of eleven persons v;as appointed to warn the people not to sell or use India teas, and it was voted that all that refused to discontinue the sale of the article, being warned by the committee, "should have their names posted at the Town-House and at the several churches, that the town may know their enemies." From that date on, the good citizens of Marblehead defied English authority over them, even ignoring the "British Regulars" stationed at the Neck to intimidate them into submission.

The Revolutionary War followed, and was successfully fought to a finish by the American patriots. For the part borne by Marblehead and other Essex county towns, readers are referred to the military chapters.

After the end of the Revolution, General Washington, having been elected President, made a tour through New England. He visited Marblehead, en route, and greatly inspired the men of the place in their task of rebuilding what had been ruthlessly destroyed by the British in that eight-year conflict on both coast and land. Poverty was in evidence on every hand. At the time of Washington's visit there were four hundred and fifty-nine widows and eight hundred and sixty-five orphans in the town, nearly all having to be supported by the taxpayers. With the severe winter of 1790, the sufferings were indeed fearful, and history says many perished from hunger and exposure.

During 1790 the Methodist Episcopal church was organized at the home of Mr. Prentiss, on Mugford street. This church had only seven charter members, but grew rapidly in the few succeeding years. The Marblehead Academy had now come to be a successful educational institution and was legally incorporated by the legislature in 1792. (See Educational chapter.)

Memorial services were held in Marblehead over the death of President Washington, who died at Mt. Vernon in December, 1799, aged sixty-seven. The day of his funeral was befittingly observed here by the slow tolling of church bells, the firing of minute guns, and general suspension of all business. In the afternoon the Masonic lodge and school children marched to the new meeting-house, and heard the oration Dy Joseph Story, then a law student.

At the close of the second war with the Mother country, people in the vicinity of Marblehead set to work to retrieve their lost fortunes. There were only forty-eight fishing vessels, eighteen of which were less than fifty tons burden. March 4, 1817, James Monroe of Virginia was made vice-president, and in a few weeks visited this section of New England. He was met at the town's entrance by a military company, and escorted to the "Lee Mansion," and there feasted.

A Sabbath school Y\-as orgf^nized here in the spring of 1818; this was a union affair, but eleven years later each church had its own separate Sunday school, as today.

In 1824, Marquis Lafayette, on his tour of the United States, visited Marblehead, accompanied by his son, George Washington Lafayette. They too, were received at the "Lee Mansion" above referred to. The well-to-do of the town helped supply silverware for the occasion.

It was also during 1824 that the streets were first named. Prior to that time, all had been known as "lanes" - "Ferry Lane," "Wharf Lane," etc.

Certain it is that Marblehead inti'oduced the manufacture of misses' and children's shoes as early as 1825. Before that period, only heavy boots and shoes for the use of the fishermen were ever produced in Marblehead, with some custom-made shoes for ladies and gentlemen. The first to engage in the real manufacture of shoes here was Ebenezer Martin, who made his own shoes and sold them at retail. His workshop was in the "Old Reynolds" house, on Darling street. He used to carry his goods about in a cart, driving from one town to another, until his stock had been disposed of. Other very early manufacturers in shoes were Thomas Wooldredge, Benjamin Hawkes, Thomas Gamey, and Adoniram C. Ome.

when it died for lack of sufficient support. Several others were launched, but these also went down, to rise no more. However, in 1871 the "Marblehead Messenger" was established, and has remained in the ranks of Essex county newspapers. (See Press Chapter.)

August 30 that year the town petitioned Congress for the erection of a lighthouse at Marblehead on Point Neck. It was duly built, its first keeper being Ezekiel Darling. The same year the Marblehead Seaman's Charitable Society was formed. It was the second humane society ever formed in the town - the Marblehead Female Humane Society, established in 1816, being the only one to organize prior to this. In 1835 the Fire Department was thoroughly organized. The town then owned four fire engines, and there were two privately owned engines.

In 1836 the Universalist Society was organized, at first a private room serving as the worshiping place. The year following, the members erected a commodious church building on Pleasant and Watson streets.

Under President Andrew Jackson's administration, when the surplus money in the United States Treasury was apportioned among the various States, that part belonging to Marblehead town amounted to over $13,000. The town voted this sum to purchase a town fann and erected an alms-house with the money.

Stage coach communication between Marblehead and Boston was first opened in 1768 ; between Salem and Marblehead it was deferred for twenty-six years. The first railway opened through from Boston was in 1838, through to Salem, when the stage was discontinued, but stages ran four times daily from the depot in Salem to Marblehead. In 1839, however, the branch line of railroad to Marblehead finally discontinued the stage coach for all time.

The year 1839 was the most propitious in the Marblehead fisheries. It was during that year that ninety-eight vessels, only three under fifty tons burden, were employed in the business.

In 1846, September 19, another calamity took place, to fill all Marblehead with sorrow and grief. This was the destruction of ten vessels belonging to the town, off the coast of Newfoundland, when sixty men and boys were lost at sea. Forty-three of the unfortunate seamen were heads of families, and left more than one hundred and fifty children. Calamity succeeded calamity, and finally caused the enterprise, so long kept up, to go down, practically speaking.

In these modern days of strikes and unrest, it may be of interest to note briefly the account of the first strike among the shoe workers in the town. It was at the end of the year 1859 and the beginning of 1860 workers in the shops in Lynn and Marblehead were getting ready for an upheaval over low wages then being allowed them, or so contended at least. In the spring of 1860, nearly every man, woman and child em- ployed in the two places - Lynn and Marblehead - participated in the movement, and there was a general determination not to submit to reduction in wages. March 2, the strikers made a grand demonstration, being escorted by the fire company and three military companies. Five days later, Lynn had a similar demonstration, when the strikers from Marblehead went over and paraded with the forces at Lynn. March 29, the women paraded about the streets of the town, one woman acting as drummer. After six weeks of bickering, the strikers went back to work, at terms dictated by the shop owners.

In 1839, when the railroad to Salem was opened, manufacturing interests here began to look up. Joseph R. Bassett, then in the prime of his young manhood, established a shoe business. He also aided many other enterprises in Marblehead. For yeai's a tv/ine-factory or "ropewalk," had existed in the field fronting Washington street, while a short distance in the rear was a tan-yard and cordage factory. Bassett bought the field, opened up School street, and othei'wise changed the streets of the ancient town of Marblehead. During 1847 Bassett built a steam saw-mill, in which wooden shoe-boxes were made in large quantities. Other enterprising men were operating there along with Mr. Bassett, but he alone is cited as an illustration of what one good business factor may accomplish in a town when so minded and capable.

It should be remembered that the shoes produced in Marblehead during the period just mentioned were all made outside of regular factories. With the introduction of labor-saving machinery, however, the sewing-machine division especially, a new system was ushered in. The McKey sewing machine, for leather work, was introduced in 1859, and that was the beginning of a new era in boot and shoe industries thrcughout the countiy.

During the year 1874, the selectmen were fonnally notified that Mr. Benjamin Abbot, who died in Boston, September, 1872, had bequeathed the residue of his property, after the payment of several other bequests, to the town of Marblehead. The property consisted of United States bonds and other securities, amounting to $103,000. The will of the donor ended as follows : "I have made this provision for the tov/n of Marblehead, because it was my birthplace. And it is my desire that a building shall be erected for the benefit of the inhabitants of said town, but I do not intend to limit the use of the legacy to that purpose or to impose conditions which would prevent the use of it for such other genei'al objects as the citizens of said town may determine upon in their discretion. I desire that my name shall always be attached to said fund." The legacy was accepted by the town, and it was decided to erect a building to be known as "Abbot Hall." In 1877 this building, a biick stricture, stone-trimmed, was completed at a cost of $75,000. It is situated on the Common, or Training Field Hill, one of the most elevated points in town, and visible for miles at sea.

The citizens of Marblehead are of that true and patriotic type who always remember their country's fla^ and its defenders. In the matter of erectmg appropriate monuments and memorial markers, there is no more active town in the county. In this connection, only two monuments will be mentioned. One is that at the junction of Pleasant and Essex streets, unveiled May 17, 1876, a hundred years after the capture of the English ship "Hope," by Commander James Mugford of the American vessel "Franklin." This monument is eighteen feet tall, and about five feet square at its base, and is a Hollowell granite shaft. The other monument, standing at the confluence of Mugford and Elm streets was unveiled July 4, 1876, in memory of the fallen hemes from the town of Marblehead in the Revolution, War of 1812, and Civil War of 1861-65. This is also a fine Hollowell granite shaft, thirty-four feet high, and eight feet square at its base. It contains appropriate tablets.

President Chester A. Arthur paid Marblehead a visit and was received at Abbot Hall in 1882, by nearly two thousand people there assembled. Appropriate memorial services were held in the town over the death of President James A. Garfield, in the autumn of 1881, at which time Vice-President Arthur was sworn in as his successor.

Coming down to the 8th of August, 1885, memorial services were held m honor of Ex-President U. S. Grant, in Abbot Hall. Captain K. V. Martin presided, and an appropriate oration was delivered by Captain Benjamin Pitman. Civil War veterans in the vicinity were out to pay their last respects to the "Silent Soldier", who had suffered so many weary months.

Whatever else may be said of several memorial services over deceased Presidents, as carried out at Marblehead, perhaps none ever affected the people in general as did those for the loved and lamented Abraham Lincoln, who was assassinated in April, 1865. On the day of Mr. Lincoln's funeral in Springfield, Illinois, many of the shoe factories were closed and appropriately draped in emblems of mourning. The church bells were tolled, and services held at the Baptist church, where an address was delivered by Rev. George W. Patch.

The history of Marblehead, up to this point, has treated of its early settlement, its business enterprises, its people, its churches, customs of its people, the population and other features. As a fishing port this town flourished many decades, and finally went down. Factories' then came m, and had their turn at employing the laboring element. The greater portion of all these elements of business, however, have gone out of commission, and Marblehead has come to be more of a summer resort, or place for the well-to-do to retire and enjoy life by the great sea shore, whose eternal waves change not in their restless motion, however men may change in thought, action and deed, with the ebb and flow of the ocean's tide.

destructive fire, which destroyed scores of buildings, both business and residence property. Again in December, 1888, the fire fiend set out in all his fury to destroy the town, which had scarcely been rebuilt since its first great fire in 1877. Of the first fire a former county history has this to say :

The most extensive conflagration ever known in the annals of the town took place on the morning of June 25, 1877. At about half past one o'clock, a bam in the rear of the three-story building known as the "Marblehead Hotel", situated on Pleasant street, in the midst of the largest and finest buildings of which the town could boast, was discovered to be on fire. Before assistance could be summoned, the fire had communicated to the hotel, and when the firemen arrived on the scene the building was in flames. Every effort was made to stop the progress of the destructive element, but without avail. The General Glover Engine House, situated directly over the Brick Pond reservoir, was soon in flames, cutting off the supply of water from that source. The fire was now beyond the control of the firemen, and, in spite of their almost superhuman efforts to stop it, spread from building to building with lightning-like rapidity. In a few moments a large shoe manufactory, known as Pope's Block, was on fire, the flames spreading to a barn owned by E. V. Bartlett & Co-, from thence to a shoe factory owned and occupied by that firm. The fire now defied all efforts at control. Leaping around the corner of School street, the conflagration extended all the way from Rechabite Building to a shoe factory owned by Nathaniel Glover, thence to a large block owned by Wormsted & Woodfin, and soon the shoe manufactory of William Stevens, a stable owned by Thomas T. Paine and fifteen other buildings, mostly dwelling houses, comprising every building of Sewall street, from the corner of School street to Spring street, were in flames. Extending along the north side of Pleasant street, the fire consumed a building belonging to T. T. Paine; a small dwelling owned by William Humphrey, the beautiful depot erected a few years previously, said at that time to the finest on the line of the Eastern Railroad; a barn and a dwelling house owned by Benjamin G. Hathaway; a boarding house by Henry F. Pitman; a large shoe manufactory owned by Jonathan Brown, the dwelling of William C. Lefavour, and a bam belonging to the estate of the late Doctor H. H. F. Whittemore. On the south side of Pleasant street, every building, save one, was consumed, from a house belonging to the estate of Mrs. Leonora Chapman, nearly opposite the place where the fire originated, to the Mugford Monument, at the junction of Essex and Spring streets. These included a large block owned by Joshua 0. Lefavour, a house owned by John H. Brown and occupied by G. W. Forsyth as a boarding house; a large four story building called "Allerton Block"; a shoe factory owned by M. J. Doak, and several dwelling houses. On the southern end of School street, every building was destroyed, including the large building owned by Henry O. Symonds; the frame and material for a new engine house being constructed; a stable of Enoch A. Perkins, the South Congregational Church; a dwelling owned by Edward Glover, and several smaller structures. On Essex street, every building was destroyed including a large shoe factory, belonging to the estate of John H. Wilkins; a small shop used by a marble worker and several dwellings. On Spring street two shoe factories owned by William C- Lefavour and four dwelling houses were destroyed; the only building left standing was the Sewall schoolhouse. On Bassett street, two dwellings together with a barn belonging to Henry F. Pitman, were destroyed, and several other buildings were seriously damaged.

At one time every church in town was on fire, except the Baptist and Roman Catholic. Then it was that strong men trembled, fearing that the town would be destroyed. But their desperation only nerved them to greater efforts, and at lengthy reinforced by assistance from Salem, Lynn, and other cities, the firemen were sue- cessful and conquered the fire. But what a scene of devastation met the eye when the morning sun broke forth. Where but a few hours before had been large factories and comfortable homes-monuments of the enterprise and industry of the peoplewere only stone walls and tottering chimneys. The entire business portion of the town had disappeared in a single night. Seventy-six buildings, with all their contents, representing over a half million dollars' wori:h of property, had been consumed, only four of the large shoe manufactories were left standing in the town while ninety families were made homeless, and fifteen hundred men and women were thrown out of employment.

This in brief is the story of the fire of 1877 in Marblehead. Then came the great fire of Christmastide, 1888. This was well written up in the local newspaper, to whose columns the writer of this chapter is indebted for material facts for the following account of it:

At the rear of the large furniture warerooms of D. B. H. Power & Company's plant on Pleasant street, a tongue of fire shot upwards. There was a sound of crackmg flames. A terrific explosion was heard as far as Salem; also was heard at Lynna deep-mouthed, hollow subterraneous sound. In an instant, neariy everyone in town was on foot, and starting for the street-another explosion was heard from the same quarter, rocking a building from end to end. The plate glass was smashed to small pieces, while flames leaped half way across the street. There was a shout and bystanders ran for their lives. The fire steamer had hardly left the engine house before it was apparent to half the town that another great fire had begun. People looked into one another's faces, panic-stricken, and asked themselves how it was to end.

Streams of water were hardly in action before the Rechabite building was afire; the flames crossed the street, and were already running up the front of the .arge shoe factory of F. W. and I. M. Munroe. At the same time, the fire reached the vacant buildmg of W. J. Goldthwaite by the Philip Trasher candy factory. Steamer -William Henry Lee" took the position on School street and worked well for twenty minutes, then broke down. Meantime, word was telephoned to Salem, Lynn and Peabody, and just then the shrill whistle rang out a warning cry The flames spread in all their fury. The fire went down through School street 'like a heated whiriwmd, taking the big brick engine house, Symonds building, Thomas Knowlands residence, etc. The row of buildings beyond the depot went down in rapid succession. Consternation was visible in every countenance, as the work of destruction sped on; no words can describe the scene. People were running about with loads of packages of household goods, laden wagons were racing to and from the fire some drawn by men. Furniture, wearing apparel, etc., were to be seen scattered all about the streets. People were anxiously enquiring about missing fnends, or asking what they should do to keep the wolf from their door in the oncoming winter days (this was Christmas). Women and children in tears were clinging to one another, sorrowfully and frantically. The whole town was lighted up with a strange, unearthly glare, while volumes of smoke and myriads of sparks shot upward toward the heavens. This fire lighted up the whole country around and was plainly seen from Boston. Horse cars, hacks and private rigs came into LT HJ^-T^^tt''' .^^^^'''' Swampscott. Peabody and Lynn all offered and Sm n u ^^'^ ^^^ P^^^ moonlight died away into the rosy hues of the

2 nf M^^^fl"'^""'''^' ^ ^"""^^^^ 'P'"^^'^" ^"^ ^^^ ^y^« °f the unfortunate people of Marblehead; where but yesterday had been comfortable homes and busy factories was nothing but blackened embers, broken walls and melancholy ruins."

changed to sorrow. This fire was even more disastrous than that of 1877. Not so many buildings, possibly, were destroyed, but a larger financial loss was sustained in the 1888 fire. The "Messenger" remarked on that occasion: "Thank God, things are no worse. We have the Harris factory left, as well as Boynton's, Hooper's, Withum's, Osborne's and Lyon's." These two gi-eat fires were just eleven and one half years apart, to a day.

The amounts here noted were the fire losses, and no account has been taken or amount deducted on account of insurance that may have been later collected on such gross losses. The William J. Goldthwait building, near the Brick Pond reservoir, $2,000; gi'oups of buildings belonging to D. B. H. Power Co., $9,000 ; Rechabite Hall, owned by the Samaritan Tent of Rechabites, $10,000; this was occupied by a boot and shoe store belonging to Benjamin H. Blaney, the loss was $2,500; Miss Kate Collins, millinery, $1,000; Walter R. Arrington, painter, $3,500, and the American Express company; Richard W. Reed's house, $2,500; residence of Mrs. Daniel Braughton, $4,000; dwelling of the Foss estate, $2,500; Stephen C. Church residence, $3,000; factory and residence owned by S. C. Church, $1,000; the building owned by T. W. Paine, the Pame's Express, Laster's Protective Union building and the John Q. J. Frost dining room, $2,900; also the box factory of Cressman & Metcalf, $7,500; two shoe factories by F. W. and I. M. Munroe, $100,000. The Lefavour's block full of tenants all met with heavy losses. The Rialto, owned by N. A. Lindsey, $5,000 ; Peach Bros.' shoe factory, $16,000 ; William Stevens, Jr., shoe factory, $10,000 ; H. O. Symonds' building, $3,500 ; W. C. Gregary building, and contents, $14,000 ; the brick engine house, $7,000; Thomas G. Stacey's residence, $2,500; shoe factory of Thomas Appleton, $3,500 ; another shoe factory by William J. Goldthwait, $15,000 ; the B. E. Cole shoe factory, $75,000 ; dwelling houses of William C. Lefavour, together with contents, $40,000. There were many smaller buildings not here listed. It may be said that to this day the effects of that gi'eat fire are felt in the town of Marblehead.

Today the commercial interests of Marblehead are almost entirely confined to the summer resort incomes. The shoe business was gi'eatly crippled many years ago by the great fire, and within a few years the shoe factories that were left have been generally closed on account of labor disputes, and are in that condition today, outside of a few small concerns. There are three excellent banking houses (see Banking). The usual number of secret and semi-secret orders are here found.

The United States Custom House for the district of Massachusetts, is located at No. 61 Pleasant street. There are a number of places where antiques of almost every conceivable kind can be purchased - not less than seven such places are open in the summer months. Boating, apartment houses and boarding places, are very numerous in the town.

The Directory of 1920 for Marblehead, gave the shoe factories as follows: Chadwick Shoe Company, Finch Brothers, H. Humphrey & Sons, Edward P. Martin, Paine Shoe Company, Parker Shoe Company, Rice & Hutchins, Schribman Shoe Company, John G. Stevens and Wright Brothers. A glue manufactory is conducted by James Sullivan & Son. The only newspaper in the town is the "Messenger" (see Press Chapter) . Boat builders in 1920 were William H. Chamberlain, James E. Graves arid George C. Pinkham.

A Congregational church was organized in 1684, Rev. Cheever being ordained its regular pastor. He had, however, been preaching here sixteen years. Communicants had increased to fifty-four, and they were in the habit of worshiping in Salem for baptisms and sacraments. July 16, 1684, was kept as a sacred fete, observing the blessing of God on the undertaking, the exercises being conducted by Rev. Mr. Hall, of Beverly. The ordination of Mr. Cheever took place August 13 in the presence of the deputy Governor, five of the assistants, twenty elders and a large concourse of people.

In 1714, Rev. Cheever having become very old and quite infirm, his church voted to settle a younger minister with him as an assistant. The one chosen was John Barnard of Boston, although Edward Holyoke was also an applicant for the position, and lost by only a small majority in the town's vote. This caused trouble, and the church was split assunder, following which the town granted permission to form another church of the disaffected members. A charter was finally obtained of the General Court. The contest was a bitter one between the two factions. April, 1716, the new meeting-house having been erected, the "Second Congregational Church of Marblehead" was organized, and Mr. Holyoke was ordained as its pastor. To show the conditions that obtained in the town when Rev. Barnard came, the writer takes the liberty of extracting from that minister's autobiography as follows:

When I first came (1714) there were two companies of poor, smoke-dried, rude, ill-clothed men, trained to no military discipline but that of "Whipping the Snake" as it was called. There was not so much as one proper carpenter, nor mason, nor tailor, nor butcher in the town, nor any market worth naming; but they had their houses built by country-workmen, and their clothes made out of town, and supplied themselves with beef and pork from Boston, which drained the town of its money. And what above all, I would remark, there was not so much as one foreign trading vessel belonging to the town, nor for several years after I came into it. Though no town had greater advantages in their hands. The people contented themselves to be slaves that digged in the mines, and left the merchants of Boston, Salem and Europe, to carry away the gains, by which means the town was always dismally poor in circumstances, involved in debt to the merchants more than they were worth; nor could I find twenty families in it that upon the best examination could stand upon their own legs; and they were generally as rude swearing, drunken and fighting a crew as they were poor.

to thus engage in the enterprise. He fitted out a small schooner, which he sent to the Barbadoes with a cargo of fish to European markets. Thus it will be observed that the early ministry had more on hand in the line of duty than to prepare sermons and deliver the same. They had the good of their membership, in a material way at heart, and gave most excellent advice to them.

Time went on and changes came to the town and its several churches. In May, 1737, Rev. Edward Holyoke, pastor of the Second Congregational church, was chosen by the board of overseers of Harvard College to fill the vacancy caused by the death of President Wadsworth.

In 1858 a number of the communicants in the First Congregational Church withdrew from that body, and organized the "Third Congregational Church." The new society erected a church building in 1860, known as the "South Church." It stood at the comer of Essex and School streets. In the sweeping conflagration of 1877, this church was destroyed, after which the church membership concluded to unite with the First Church agam.

During 1714 an Episcopal church was organized and a house of worship erected. The funds were raised by thirty-three gentlemen, who pledged themselves in sums ranging from a few shillings to more, making in all one hundred and seventy-five pounds. The remainder was to be made up by several captains of vessels in sums varying from two to twelve pounds each. The frame and all articles for construction were brought from England. The first rector was Rev. William Shaw, who arrived and took charge of the parish July 20, 1715. Thus was established Marblehead's first Episcopal church.

The organization of this church was occasioned by a controversy in the First Congregational Church concerning the settlement of a colleague to the Rev. Samuel Cheever. In December, 1714, the First Church voted to call the Rev. John Barnard, and on the 5th of February, 1715, one hundred and twenty-four persons, who favored the settlement of the Rev. Edward Holyoke, withdrew from the society, and pledged themselves in an agreement to contribute the necessary funds for the erection of a "New Meeting House." The edifice was completed during the latter part of the year, and on the 25th of April, 1716, the Second Congregational Church was organized, with twenty-seven members.

Mr. Holyoke resigned inl737 to become president of Harvard College. Between 1737 and 1811 the following were pastors: Rev. Simon Bradstreet, Rev. Isaac Story, Rev. Hezekiah May. The succeeding pastor was the Rev. John Bartlett, who was ordained May 22, 1811. The pastorate of Mr. Bartlett was probably the most eventful of any in the entire history of this church. During the great religious excitement caused by the Channing movement in the Congregational churches of New England, Mr. Bartlett announced his belief in the doctrines of Unitarianism as preached by Mr. Channing and his followers. A majority of the communicants supported Mr. Bartlett in his teachings, and the church has ever since been Unitarian. During the year 1832, the old house of worship was torn down and a new church edifice was erected.

Mr, Bartlett died in 1849, and the same year the Rev. Benjamin Huntoon became pastor. He was followed by Rev. Samuel R. Calthrop, Rev. James Henry Wiggin, Rev. William B- Buxton, Rev. Benjamin H. Bailey, Rev. James K. Applebee, Rev. John B. Barnhill, Rev Henry C. McDougall, Rev. Albert Walkley, Rev. Alfred D. K. ShurtlefF.

In October, 1910, the church building burned to the ground, and the next year the present church edifice was built. Services are being held every Sunday, with the pulpit occupied by a regular supply, and the Sunday school and parish activities are in charge of a paid parish worker. There are now ninety-six members in this church, and a Sunday school attendance of sixty-five; Mrs. Merrill E. Shaw is superintendent.

The first church building was erected in 1715, was torn down and in 1832, another was built and that burned in 1910; the third church was erected in 1911, is of wooden material and is valued at $32,000, and the land connected therewith is valued at $2,600.

Though there had been Roman Catholics in Marblehead for many years, there was no attempt to have a celebration of the mass in town until the year 1851. During that year the Reverend Thomas Shehan, pastor of St. James Church, Salem, visited the town and celebrated mass in the house of Mr. Dennis Donovan, on the comer of Prospect and Commercial streets, now owned by John E. Martin. Father Shehan afterwards came to Marblehead twice a year to administer Holy Communion, services being held alternately at the houses of Mr. Donovan and that of Mr. John Mahoney on Glover Square.

With the exceptions of these visits of Father Shehan there were no services of the Roman Catholic Church in Marblehead until the year 1854, when Anderson's Hall on Pleasant street, on the site of the present Evans Park, was engaged and mass was celebrated there on the second and third Sundays of every month. In 1857 services were held at the town hall, and during that year about $1,000 was raised by subscription for the erection of a church edifice. A lot of land on Prospect street, at the junction of Prospect and Rowland streets, was bought as a site for the building. In 1859 a small church was built and services were regularly maintained under the superintendence of Father Shehan, who officiated himself or procured the services of other priests.

In November, 1865, Father Shehan gave notice that he was appointed to the church of another parish in Boston and requested the people to make an effort before he left them to pay any indebtedness which they owed on the Church building, which they did. From that time the parish was in charge of the Rev. Charles Rainoni, who was living at that time in Danvers and who celebrated a mass in Danvers and one at Marblehead on each Sunday thereafter, and in 1872 he took up his permanent residence at Marblehead and became the first regular resident parish priest in charge of the church. In 1872 a new church edifice was erected on Gregory street, where now stands the present rectory, and on the 8th day of July of the same year it was burned to the ground before there had been any religious ceremonies performed therein. The old church continued to be used and the services were held there as usual. A short time after the destruction of the new church, the present house and rectory was erected on the same site for the use of the pastor.

Father Rainoni died in January, 1875, and was succeeded by the Rev. Daniel S. Healey. During the pastorate of Father Healey the old church was entirely remodelled and built to its present lines. In Jancalf, who remained as pastor until the spring of 1886, when he was succeeded by the Rev. William Shinnick. Father Shinnick remained pastor up to the time of his death in 1912. During his pastorate he had as curates Rev. John J. Griffin, now pastor at Winthrop, Rev. uary, 1882, Father Healey was succeeded by the Rev. Theodore A. Met- Thomas McManus, Rev. John I. Lane, and Rev. Henry K Lyons, now at St. Augustine's, South Boston.

Father Shinnick was succeeded by the Rev. James Gilday, who took charge of the parish in the early summer of 1912, and remained in charge up to his death on May 29, 1920. During his pastorate. Rev. John F. Monaghan and Rev. Ambrose D. Walter, the present curate, served as curates. The present pastor, the Rev. Michael J. Sullivan, was appointed in 1921.

The old part of the present cemetery was acquired in 1868, and consisted of about three acres. The adjoining land, consisting of about seven and one-half acres, was acquired for additional cemetery purposes during the pastorate of Father Gilday. The present total membership, men, women and children, of this Catholic church is one thousand. The Parochial school has a membership of about two hundred and fifty. The value of the church edifice and property is $50,000.