Essex County, Massachusetts - Chapter 28: Town of Nahant, 1922

Nahant is a peninsula extending out into Massachusetts Bay, to the south of Lynn. Originally, this tract of land (almost an island), together with Lynn, included a township adjoining the town of Salem, the first landing place of the Puritans. In this large territory the Puritans made their first homes, at long distances from one another, "in convenient spots, each family occupying large tracts of land. A few families gathered at Tower Hill, Breed's End, Sagamore Hill and Swampscott, as well as at Nahant."

Although Nahant is one of the smallest in population and area of any town within the limits of Essex county, it was without question one of the very earliest places to be settled by the white race. Its history reaches away back more than five hundred years before the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth Rock ; at least, it has been blended by both history and tradition that far back. Before taking up the actual recorded history of this most interesting locality, it may be well to mention some of the eai'ly traditions, including the stories of the Norsemen voyagers, which say that "Thorwold, in 1004, A.D., spent the winter in Narragansett Bay, and in the spring set sail to find his way back to the coast of Greenland. Working his way around Cape Cod, which he called Kilarames, he sailed northward to the m.ain land, and came to anchor near a bold promontory, which projected into the sea, covered with a forest to the water's edge. He was so delighted with the place that he

While at anchor near the promontory, and while preparing to go ashore, the Norsemen discovered three small canoes, each containing three natives, whom they pursued and killed, all but one, who escaped to his tribe. He, with a just indignation, soon returned with others of his tribe to destroy, if possible, the Norsemen, who had so cruelly betrayed their confidence. But the arrows and the frail birch canoe of the natives were as nothing compared to the battle-screens of the ships of the Norsemen, so that the natives soon retired, but not until they had killed or at least mortally wounded Thorwold, who only had time to say, "This is my deathblow; I desire you to depart as soon as possible, but first take my body to the shore and bury it upon the promontory before you where I had intended to make my abode. I shall now dwell there forever. Place a cross at my head and also one at my feet, and call the place Krossanes."

Abbot in his "Histoiy of Maine" gives place to this story, saying that it occurred at some point near Boston Harbor; doubtless "it was the first conflict between the Euroi)eans and the Indians of North America in which the White race was outrageously in the wrong." After Thorwold's death, his crew returned to NaiTagansett Bay, where they spent the winter, and in the spring set sail for Greenland with a cargo of wood and furs.

While this story is interesting, the objection has been raised that it lacks any authenticity as to the persons, their deeds and the exact location in New England where such a scene is supposed to have been staged. That it should have been Nahant is a theory supported by sundiy writers. Historian Abbot admits it to have been in Boston Harbor, and Lewis in his "History of Essex County" favors Nahant.

To connect up closer with established facts in recorded histoiy, it should be added that John Smith, in his voyages along the New England coast, noticed Nahant, which he called the Mattahunt Isles, and here he made a landing. He also refen-ed to the cliffs on the northeast coast as the iron mines, as they much resemble iron-ore. Other records call the same place Nahant, so named after an Indian chief Nahanton.

In 1622 Robert Gorges obtained a grant of lands (according to the public records) in Massachusetts Bay, in which grant Nahant was included. Before Blackstone and Johnson made their home in Boston, settlers had been cultivating the soil of Nahant, and chopping down its forests, with which to erect their humble cabins and increase their faims. It is believed that this settlement was not far from 1630, a belief based upon dates and facts included in the deposition of one William Dixey, who under oath, in 1657 wrote as follows :

Swome saith, that about twenty-eight years ago, Mr. Isaak Johnson, being my master, Writt to the Hon'rd Govem'r as now is Mr. Endicott for a place to sitt downe in upon which Mr. Endicott gave me and the rest leave to go where we wee would, upon which I went to Saugust, now Linne, and there we mett with Sagamore James and some other Indians, whoe did give me and the rest to dwell there or thereabouts.

whereup I and the rest of my masters company did cutt grass for our cattell and kept them upon Nahant for some space of time, for the Indian, James Sagamore and the rest, did give me and the rest, in behalf of my master, Johnson, wt land wee would, whereupon wee sett down in Saugust and had quiet possession of it by the above said Indians and kept our cattell in Nahant the summer following. Desposition given May 1, 1657.

Isaac Johnson left Lynn for Boston in 1630, becoming one of the first to settle there. The first settlement made in Nahant was with the full consent of the Indians, both races living in peace together up to that time. Thus it is established that the original settlers first obtained a title to their land from Governor Endicott to go where they would, and afterwards from the Indian Sagamore James.

Notwithstanding there was far more land than could be used by the first settlers, disputes yet arose over boundary lines of the several tracts - human nature then being identically the same as today. Finally an allotment was made by vote in the town meeting. The minority, however, were displeased, and picked out the choicest tracts and purchased them from the Indians, as they believed the latter were the only true owners. Among these purchases was one by Thomas Dexter, who bought Sagamore Hill and Nahant, claiming them as his own to till and pasture upon within enclosures which he built. The Lynn people would not agree, and trouble arose, resulting in a law-suit. "Nahant was especially valuable as a pasture for cattle, as a fence had been put across the northwest end of Long Beach, protecting all the peninsula, keeping the cattle safely enclosed, besides serving as a barrier to keep out the wolves and bears." These great advantages were not overlooked by the settlers at Nahant, who believed them worth fighting for.

Thus it will be seen that there sprung up several classes of claimants for this most valuable plot of ground, almost surrounded by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Thomas Dexter claimed it by right of purchase from the Indians. There seems good evidence to prove that he purchased Nahant, fenced it in, and that a suit of clothes was a part of the consideration paid. Another claimant was the town of Lynn, whose settlers claimed it by their right of being "first settlers," and who had given it to others, to be used in common.

Still a third class laid claim thereto, on account of having taken their lands there, and refused to be held for rental by two parties - the town of Lynn and the Dexter family interests. On account of these differences, many moved to other parts, rather than longer be annoyed; still others, of a more stubborn make-up, refused either to leave or to pay rent. One writer says: "The contest for Nahant seems to have been both severe and stubborn, so much so that after the town of Lynn had voted to allot the land at Nahant equally to the several proprietors, it was voted at a subsequent town meeting, 'that the soil should be sown down to English grass, and that no house should be left standing.' Such an act it is hardly possible to find elsewhere; but in spite of it, the ad- ministrators of Thomas Dexter appealed to the decision of the court. In 1676, the case was decided against them in favor of the town of Lynn."

The next heard of Nahant in 1687 was when the notorious Edward Randolph, English commissioner of Charles U, petitioned *'His Excellency, Sir Edward Andros, Knight, Governor, etc.," for a grant of Nahant. In 1706, Lynn voted to divide its lands among the town's people, and received from the court legal right to hold and divide all common lands. Before this act of the town, a deed of Nahant had been procured by Lynn from the Indians, bearing date of September 4, 1686, thus making the title of Nahant satisfactory after a seventy-year contest at law.

A town committee met and divided Nahant into two hundred and eight lots, the largest containing four acres and six rods; the smallest was thirty-eight rods. This division was easily made by making eleven strips, or ranges running across the peninsula from northeast to southwest, each strip being forty rods wide.

Nahant possesses advantages as a watering-place superior to any in New England. It is a peninsula stretching two miles into the sea. You approach it by land, over a most excellent turnpike road, surpassed by none in the United States; and across a beach of unsurpassing smoothness, on whose hard level the wheel leaves no mark, and which may be justly considered as one of the curiosities of the country.

From its bleak bluffs the ocean spreads itself before you in all its grandeur, now bearing on its broad and beautiful bosom the white sails of commerce, and no./ roaring in rage and breaking its wild wave on the shore. You have here the sublimity of a sea voyage, with the security of a residence on the land. The rocky shore of the peninsula presents another appearance of sublimity and grandeur; the rude magnificence and gigantic outline of one part is relieved by the beauty and regularity of others; and in the cells and caverns which diversify the scenery, an admirer of nature may find abundant amusement in exploring the innumerable traces of her workmanship.

On the high grounds of Nahant the air is most pure, refreshing and salubrious. The heat of the summer's sun is moderated by luxuriant sea-breezes which never fail, from some quarter, to alleviate its intensity.

Its waters afford abundant sport for fishermen; small fish are caught in surprising quantities from the rocks; and a short distance in the bay cod, haddock, mackerel and halibut reward the labor which pursues them."

The first hotel v/as opened here in June, 1823, known as the Nahant Hotel. This house was sold and rebuilt in 1853-54. The new hotel had a dining room service for six hundred persons at one time. Telegraph wires connected with Boston, and a special steamer plied the waters between Nahant and Boston. In September, 1861, this hotel, costing over $100,000, was burned to the ground.

say: "The new and beautiful steamboat 'Massachusetts' has by perseverance so far overcome the prejudices of the pubhc, and on Thursday afternoon, in her excursions around the harbor, she was filled to overflowing with ladies and gentlemen. This boat is one hundred feet long on the deck, and measures one hundred and twenty tons." Doubtless this boat made frequent excursions to Nahant in 1817. In 1820 she made her regular runs there from Boston; the steamboat route was really established from Boston to Nahant in the season of 1818, the steamboat "Eagle" being the popular steamer at that date.

The citizens of Nahant tried in 1846 to have the town incorporated, and petitioned the legislature to grant such corporation, but owing to opposition from the people of Lynn, this was denied them. Then Nahant asked Lynn to appropriate certain funds with which to protect the beach and repair the wagon roads ; this, too, was refused. Under leadership of Frederick Tudor, the citizens of Nahant then sought by public subscription to make the needed improvements, and in this way nearly all of Willow Road was constructed. The road then from Lynn to Nahant was simply a long beach and at high tide nothing more than a ridge of soft sand, through which it was very hard to travel. At low tide, or even half tide, however, the hard, firm sand made a much easier road. Hence, nearly all journeys across were made at low tide. The timetable of the first stage coaches to Nahant was changed weekly to correspond with the tides. On account of this feature it was not long before Boston provided boat service to Nahant.

In 1847 Lynn voted an appropriation of one thousand dollars to aid the required improvement in Nahant. By this and other funds, there was constructed between Lynn and Nahant a graveled road, though very narrow. In 1851 a great sea storm ruined this roadway, submerging the beach and destroying the breakwater. In 1848 the legislature prohibited the taking away of any stones or dirt from Long Beach and Nahant.

In 1853 the inhabitants of Nahant again asked to be incorporated as a town, to be called Nahant. This time the prayer was heard and later approved by the governor, March 29, of that year. The new town had within its limits all of Long Beach, the city of Lynn being only "too glad to get Nahant off of her hands." In the settlement between the two places, Nahant had to pay Lynn $2,000. The newly-made town had a population of three hundred souls, sixty-nine dwellings, and thirty voters, mostly all Whigs.

There was a long road or "lane" from Lynn to Nahant ; a cutaway to North Spring ; a street one rod wide to the schoolhouse and Gary's gate, called Schoolhouse Lane. Below Whitney's Hotel the streets had been laid out by Coolidge. At the time of its incorporation, Nahant had two churches, one schoolhouse with forty-eight pupils, four public houses, ten boarding-houses, two firms of carpenters and builders, a paint shop.

a grocery and the little postoffice. There were then no signs of warning "Private Grounds," "No Trespassing Here," for the cattle roamed at will over the beautiful fields. After a long contest in the courts over the title of Long Beach - whether it belonged to Lynn or to Nahant - it was finally decided that Nahant was the legal owner of such lands.

Longfellow said in his Journal: "Life at Nahant partakes of the monotony of the sea. The walk along the shore, the surf, the rocks, and friendly chat - these make up the agreeable rounds." Here it was that Longfellow wrote much of that which made his name immortal, the "Song of Hiawatha." It was penned in the old Johnson house. Here, too, Professor Agassiz and N. P. Willis spent their summers mostly.

The present officers of the incorporation of Nahant are inclusive of these: Moderator, F. A. Wilson; Selectmen: H. C. Wilson (chairman), Daniel G. Flinnery, secretary ; Charles A. Phillips ; Town Clerk, William F. Waters; Treasurer and Collector, Charles Cabot Johnson; School Committee: Fred A. Pirie, John S. Tombeno, Frank E. Bruce; Public Library Trustee : Henry Cabot Lodge, A. G. Wilson, F. A. Wilson ; Surveyor of Highways, P. J. O'Connor ; Constables, Fred J. Timmins ; Tre« Warden, Herbert Coles.

Fishing interests at Nahant have ever been looked upon as of great value to the people living there. Fishing vessels were owned by Nahant residents from the first. The history of the industry in olden times has perished with the faithful, brave fishermen. In 1824 a well known schooner built at Essex for this fishing enterprise was named "Lafayette." Among the better-known fishermen and boat-pilots were Caleb and Joseph Johnson, who followed the business for a half century, and supplied the Boston fish market with thousands of tons of fish. But the fish industry has gone from Nahant and summer resorts have taken their place.

From the beginning of its history, Nahant has had its full share of destructive sea storms and shipwrecks. An old history of Lynn and Nahant gives detailed accounts of many such storms. Commencing with 1631, Captain Wiggins' boat was wrecked on Long Beach, followed on down by the great storms of 1757, 1769, 1772, 1778, 1795, 1827, 1829, 1836, 1840, 1843, 1851, 1856, 1857, one and all making a sea story worth reading, did space permit in this work. Here ships from almost every country have gone down to sail no more. Lives in scores and property in millions have been destroyed along Long Beach, so popular a resort in our times.

In July, 1847, a postoffice was established at Nahant, the same being kept in the Nahant Hotel. Phineas Drew was the first postmaster; he was proprietor of the hotel. During the same year the office was taken to a grocery store, when W. W. Johnson was appointed postmaster, serving until his death, when his son, Edwin W. Johnson, succeeded to the office. In summer months, mail was carried to this office every day, but in the winter months only once a week. In 1887 T. Dexter Johnson was appointed postmaster. Before the postoffice was established at Nahant ^'Johnson's Nahant and Boston Express route" was opened between the two points. By many authorities this is set down as the first "Express" business formed in the country.

In 1866 a town hall was dedicated in Nahant, and later a fire company was organized. In 1872 a public library was established; edgestones and cement sidewalks were placed in position, street lamps were installed, and matters generally seemed to take on "city airs."

Mention may be made of the old iron mine from which a small amount of ore had been taken at an early day, and cooked at the various forges, including the one at Braintree ; also the curiosities of the Spouting Horn, Bass Beach, Spouting Rock, Pulpit Rock, Natural Bridge and Swallow's Cave. Each and all have their own peculiar setting, and must needs be seen to be understood and fully appreciated.

From the close of the Civil War period, for many years, this town was noted as a summer resort, and to some extent still maintains this distinction, but with the many improvements at various headlands, here and there all along the New England rockbound and wavewashed coast, the popularity of Nahant is not so great as in former years. Former industries have long since disappeared. Many of the inhabitants removed to other places, where they might work at their trades or callings. Once there was a small shoe business here, especially before the improved shoemaking machinery came into use, when thousand of pairs of shoes were made and many were "bound" by women and girls. It may well be stated that to catch fish and make shoes in Nahant is now a "lost art."

The Nahant Library is open the year round, and is constantly growing in interest and number of books and papers. During the last year there was an increase of 1,417 volumes. The total circulation of books in the children's department for the year ending December, 1920, was 7,378. The total number of books in the library is 27,263; number of volumes circulated for home use, 23,540 ; number of patrons during the year 1,147 ; fines paid during the year, $56. These facts have been gleaned from the report made by May W. Perkins, librarian. It should also be stated that the reading room is now furnished with thirty-four magazines and papers, of America's choicest publications. These various publications, for old and young, with the numerous stacks of valuable books, are kept in a $50,000 building owned by the town. This of itself speaks loudly in praise of the intelligence and culture of the inhabitants.

Among the charming estates found at Nahant should not be overlooked that of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge. It is situated at the extreme end of East Point. On these prominent acres, overlooking the majes- tic ocean, up to 1861 stood for a number of years what was known as the Nahant House, a hotel presided over by Paran Stevens, who intended to convert Nahant into a summer watering resort of a most fashionable type. September 11, 1861, it "took fire," says Senator Lodge in his recent autobiography, ("Early Memories") and was burned to the ground. As a hotel, it was a failure financially after the first few years. One account says that this hotel had hundreds of rooms, with dining room space for six hundred diners to be seated at once. There were literally acres of piazzas connected with the structure. Here were entertained the numerous "bonanza kings" of those early days before the Civil War. In this manner the owner of the hotel made much money.

After the fire had consumed the hotel building, the property was thrown upon the market, but no one seemed to care to invest in Nahant property. Senator LfOdge's father, Mr. John E. Lodge, made an effort to have some one rebuild the hotel. Failing in this, he purchased the property himself; but before he developed his plans, fully, he died, and the estate fell to the childi'en. Senator Lodge and his sister here erected houses of their own, including the present mansion, still so much beloved and appreciated in the summer-time by the Senator and his family. The sale of this pix>perty, so finely situated, was made to the elder Lodge in 1868. The grounds contain many acres, and the residence is a veranda-inclosed mansion of attractive architecture, set upon the commanding heights of East Point. To what nature had done for this place has been added the skill of expert landscape gardeners. The grounds extend to the sea on the northeast and south, including the cliffs, upon which the suif of the ocean breaks with force of the whole Atlantic Ocean. It is truly an attractive estate. Trees, shrubs and flowers are to be seen on every hand. Here the Senator delights to spend the heated season of each year, when freedom from official cares permits.

What is to be known as Fort Augustus Gardner, Nahant, is now in course of construction. About the time of the Spanish-American War, the United States government purchased a tract of land, to which has more recently been added much more territory. Here an extensive fortification is being built, beneath Bailey's Hill. Seventy-six different land holdings were bought. On these grounds were standing, at one time, forty-seven dwellings. The fort is located midway along the southern shore of Nahant, and commands an extended view of Broad Sound, as well as of the South Shore. Its natural qualifications for a defensive station are plain to the observer. Here the first earth-works were throv^m up in 1898. Among other objects to be attained by this fortification, the government intends making a proving station for ordnance tests.

The old Tri-Mountain House, known far and wide, originally stood on a part of these grounds. Work is steadily being carried on in the construction of the fortress. The recent abandonment of numerous forts in Boston harbor is doubtless due to the fact that Fort Gardner is here being constructed. The site is practically a solid ledge. The bestowal of the name is in recognition of the fame and patriotic labors of Hon. Augustus Peabody Gardner, who represented the sixth district in Congress. He resigned his congressional office, during the World War, to accept a commission as major in the army. Scarcely had he thus entered the service of the United States than he suddenly fell ill, death resulting shortly afterwards. Deceased was a son-in-law of Senator Lodge.

The sale of property for unpaid taxes is almost a universal thing in all towns and cities throughout the country, but the town of Nahant is an exception to the rule. Like all towns or cities, it has its delinquent taxpayers, of course, but never in the history of the town has the tax collector been forced to issue a notice of sale of private property within the town, and there are few towns in the country that can make a like boast. The "Item" of Lynn says of this subject:

The assessed value of the town last year was something like $4,149,697. Since January 1st, 1921, the delinquent tax has been reduced from $17,000 to about $12,000 without any extra effort on the part of the tax collector.

Diplomacy is the method used by tax-collector Charles Cabot Johnson, who has served in this capacity for more than eighteen years. When the unpaid taxes reach nearly the three-year mark. Collector Johnson personally visits the delinquent and in his well known gi-acious manner points out the law on unpaid taxes and how trouble, red tape and considerable inconvenience to both property holder and the town can be avoided. His advise is always heeded.

Before the erection of the old stone schoolhouse, the church goers usually attended church at Lynn. The Hoods and Breeds were Quakers in their religious faith, and were all members of the Society of Friends. The Johnson families belonged to the Baptist denomination in part, while another branch of the family were devout Methodists. The Rice family were of the regular Orthodox Church. The children of these families attended Sabbath School in the various churches already mentioned. After the exercises were ended, the children had the long walk of over three miles over the beach. If the tide was out, the trip was easily made ; but at high tide it became tedious, and it was as much as a horse could do to drag a buggy through the sand, empty, while the parents and children in such times usually had to walk, wading through the sands, ankle deep.

After the completion of the stone schoolhouse, the three churches held their services, pastors from Lynn being their preachers. The oldest church building was the Independent Methodist denomination. At evening, lights were obtained from lanterns and candles. The lantern was "a lamp unto their feet and a light unto their pathway." Before this church was built, there was erected in 1831 a frame chapel, provided by the summer residents, and suitable only for summer use. The builders of this chapel were also the builders of the village church. All denominations were welcome, as all had contributed. The land upon which the church was built was generously donated by Caleb Johnson and J. W. Page ; Dr. William R. Lawrence presented the bell, and Charles Amory gave a communion set. It was written in the eighties of these churches: "The Nahant church and the Village church have been enlarged and improved, so that but little of the original structures can now be seen." A Young Men's Christian Association was organized here in 1876.

Preaching and Mass were observed by the Catholic people in the old chapel until 1872, when, under Rev. Patrick Strain, of Lynn, a church was built and owned by the congregation.