Goodhue County, Minnesota - Chapter 25, 1909

Anecdotes And Adventures

Address by Judge Wilder - Office Experiences - A New Setting to an Old Tale - Pleasures of the Early Days - On Thin Ice - C. J. F. Smith's Adventures - His Arrival - An Early Journey - Writing's of the Rev. J. W. Hancock - Indians and Whisky - Difficulties of Travel - A Canoe Trip on Land - The Mysterious Wild Girl - Oil Well in Red Wing - Coal and Gold Also Found.

The employments and diversions of the early settlers are well exemplified in an address delivered before the Old Settler's Association by Judge E. T. Wilder in .January, 1883: "In May. 1856, in company with Charles Hall, father of 0. M. Hall, I left Dubuque for Minnesota. Traveling with our team, we went west to Waterloo on Cedar river, then up that stream, visiting Cedar Falls, Waverly, St. Charles, Osage and other smaller places, thence through Austin. Owatonna, Faribault, Cannon Falls and smaller places, to Red Wing. Returning from this point south, Ave passed Poplar Grove, Oronoeo, Rochester and Decorah, to Dubuque, The incidents of this trip were not a little diversified. Hotel accommodations, even in towns, were by no means incapable of improvement, In this particular Red Wing was not an exception. The regulation diet was fresh pork, from shoats of the racer variety, dried apples in different forms, a decoction of the tea plant with little or no sugar, and now and then a dish of corn coffee. The only bright, sunny spot we found on the whole route was Owatonna. This trip was purely one of observation. No point pleased me as well as Reel Wing, and no section equaled in promise what we saw in Goodhue county. In a few days I returned to Red Wing to look over the ground again, and with more care. This was about June 20. At this time I formed numerous acquaintances, prominent among whom were Judge W. H. Welch, Messrs. Phelps and Graham, J. C. Weatherby, James Lawther and Messrs. Smith, Towne & Co. Of the latter firm I then saw more of Mr. Towne than of his partners. My interviews were mainly with him, and though long since gone to his rest, I am pleased to say that in all my intercourse with men, few as strangers have ever met me with more cordiality and gentlemanly courtesy than he. The result of these investigations was a determination to remain here. I rented an office in the second story of a wooden building, then nearly completed, standing on the north side of Main street. Red Wing at that time contained a population of perhaps 600.

"A few days after. 1 returned to Dubuque and sent A. \Y. Pratt forward with our office furniture, following him about July 10. I found the building before referred to completed and occupied. In the west compartment on the lower floor was the United States land office; in the east, the hardware store of Clark & Cooper; and in front, over them, was our office. In front. over the land office, were Messrs. Smith, Towne & Co., and back of them, the law office of Murdock & Bristol. From that office radiated many matters of practical importance to this land district. From well nigh all parts of the state came attorneys to be heard in eases of contest in the land office court. In this block were concocted the thousand and one practical jokes that contributed not a little in those days to save our people from ennui. Those who are familiar with that period in our history need not be told that our friend Pratt wras the presiding genius in this department, supported by Phelps Everett as his efficient and unfailing aid. While a volume could be filled with their efforts in this field, I will only give a specimen. Messrs. Clark & Cooper had ordered and received the bell for the new Presbyterian church. It stood upon the siclewTalk in front of their store ; its position was such that it could be easily rung. I had just returned from the East with memoranda for numerous business entries upon our books. I was seated at one side of the table in our office and Pratt at the other, making entries at my dictation. It was a hot day in summer and the office windows were wide open. We had progressed with our work but a little time, when clang, clang, in full tone, went the bell; not a single tap or two, but persistently. Of course it disturbed us. An exclamation of annoyance on my part was followed by Pratt's quick movement to the window to discover by whom the bell was rung, and to request its discontinuance. From him came the remark, 'The scamps have run; they must be the same cubs wdio have kept the bell going for the past two nights. They don't let a fellow sleep.' Our work was barely resumed when the boys gave notice of their return by interruption number two, and with increased power. Pratt moved rapidly to the window ; the boys were just disappearing around the eorner. This game was kept up two or three times more. At last Pratt left his seat, saying, 'Confound them, I will catch them anyway!' Going to the closet, he produced a pitcher of water - the best part of a gallon - and taking position behind the wall, near the window, watehed the movements below. Some time elapsed with no results. Meantime he stood and watched. At length came the sound of the bell with still increased volume, and simultaneously out went the contents of the pitcher, followed by the joyous outcry. 'I hit the biggest fellow squarely in the face! I guess they'll stop now.' And they did.

[Editors Xote - In a published account of this affair, appearing in the Rev. Hancock's "History of Goodhue County," Judge Wilder has made the following annotation: "Mr. Hancock omits the point of this story. Ten years later I learned I had been 'sold.* Air. Pratt, by the use of a cord, rang the bell himself. - E. T. AY."]

"The first religious service I attended in Red Wing was in July. 1856, in the seminary building of (lie Hemline University. A local preacher, not now in the city, officiated. I remember nothing of his sermon, further than thai by way of illustration he presented to his congregation by a word picture a pig which, trying to force itself through ;i rail fence, finds itself caught so that it can move neither forward nor backward. On his way from meeting, .Mr. Pratt, being in the company, suddenly stopped and with ;i lone and expression of anxiety said, 'Hold on. Judge, 1 have to go back.' 'Why, what's the matter?' Why, don't you hear thai poor pig squal? I must go back and get him out of the fence.'

"In those days tin- range of amusements was limited, and sports of the field and streams had many votaries. Allow me to photograph one feature of a fishing trip and a single hunting trip. As soon as the ice in the river was known to be firm, parties eonld In' seen, each with his blanket, spear and decoy, at an early morning hour, moving with dignity toward the favorite runway for the day's sport. The language of the thermometer was ignored. Twenty or twenty-five below prevented no one from keeping a previous engagement. Reaching the designated point, the first step was to build upon the bank a big log fire, the next to cut the number of holes and then commenced the work of the day. Seated upon the ice under his blanked, with spear in one hand and the string of his decoy in the other, the sportsman woidd watch for his prey, until by reason of his cramped position his limbs uttered their protest, then join his comrades at the fire, swap yarns, roast and eat salt pork, and then again take up his spear and decoy for the second installment of what some of you would characterize as discomfort and folly. Again and again I have heard the question. 'What pleasure can there be in this?' If I could take one of the skeptics under my blanket and compel him to keep perfectly still, the answer would readily be given.

Like ;i flash, like a ray of Lighl through the clear, pellucid water, striking at the decoy as he goes under and beyond the hole, darts a twenty-pound muskalonge. The nerves respond as to a currenl i f electricity. Now, do1 a motion, qo1 a noise, aol even a long breath. In a momenl or two lie comes moving slowly, cautiously, suspiciously back. Yen see the very tip of his nose as ii projects above the ice. In the slowest, most cant ions manner possible, watching everything, he moves steadily on toward the decoy, and then, when he has passed so far under the hole as to present his head and shoulders inside the wall of Lee, a quick, sharp downward blow skillfully given with the suspended spear, and the fellow is yours. If in this there is not excitement, if there is not pleasure which a sportsman feels to his very finger's ends, then the recoiled ion is strangely at fault.

"Occasionally our trips were made to points some distance away, the journeys being undertaken by teams. One trip of this sort will not readily be forgotten. The party consisted of Dr. Sweney, Prof. Wilson, Teele, Downing, Brundage, Abe Thomas, Dr. Hoyt and myself. The shoes of the team had been recently sharpened: we drove up the river some distance and then across the island and struck the Vermilion slough at a point five or six miles above its mouth. We had in that neighborhood a good day's sport. .Mr. Downing using hook and line ami catching 'snakes,' the balance of the company using spear and decoy, taking fish. We returned by the Vermilion slough. Moving at a good round trot, without warning we entered upon a section of ice so thin that a jet of water of an inch or more in height followed, each cork of the shoes of the horses as they were raised from the ice in our progress, and so feeble as perceptibly to yield to the weight of the load. You may well imagine that at that moment our sleigh contained white faces, pallid lips and nervous men. It was madness to stop ; our only chance for safety consisted in going on and over the weak ice if possible, and this the driver instinctively appreciated. Applying the whip promptly and smartly, the team fairly flew until solid ice was reached and safety assured. For a brief period the strain was painfully intense. It was an experience no one, of that party was ever ambitious to repeat.

"In the summer of 1857 a company consisting of Mr. Going, Mr. Williston, Brown and others left Red Wing for an extended chicken hunt. In the vicinity of Hader the troop was ranging over quite an area, yet within sight and hearing. Two of the company fired at a covey of chickens, and in a direction not toward, but away from Mr. Going. The reports of their guns had barely reached us when all eyes were turned to Mr. Going some distance away, who, howling in agony, was at intervals hurling curses loud and deep at the heads of our companions for their supposed carelessness, while he was with both hands holding up one leg, and at the same time trying to preserve his equilibrium by hopping and jumping, not quite gravely, upon the other. All feared he was seriously wounded and were at his side with the least possible delay. . He was still grasping and rubbing the calf of his injured leg and obviously suffering intense pain. We placed him gently upon the ground, removed his boots and so much of his clothing as was necessary for a thorough examination, when, to our surprise as well as his, no blood, no wound, no mark, not even a scratch, could be found. Further examination disclosed the fact that a single shot had struck him on the upper lip, had passed through and lodged against the skin upon the inner surface of the lip, and that was the extent of the injury. Two questions were asked : First, wThere did that one shot come from? and second, what is the nervous connection between the lip and the calf of the leg .' ' '

C. -I. K. Smith, in speaking of practically the same years, once said: "In the month of June, 1854, I first set foot in Red Wing. I took dinner at the Red AVing House, then kept by Andrus Durand. The most striking feature of Red Wing was then, as it is now. to one approaching the place on a steamer, the bold, isolated Barn bluff. About the only thing I remember doing on my first visit here were : First, to climb to the summit of that bluff, right up to its precipitous nose, and take a view of the extended landscape, the winding river skirted with timber, the plateau^ ;md bluffs in the distance, all together making an enchanting picture. The next thing I did was to purchase about two, or it may have been twelve, acres of land. The said land was described as being on the side of Sorin bluff and was pointed out to me by a wave of the hand while standing on Bush street, said description being apparently satisfactory to the purchaser who was bound to make an investment in the land of promise. Suffice it. to say I have never heard where that land lay, or that the seller has so much as a shadowr of a title. Yet there is no doubt of land being there on the sides of the bluff.

"On my next visit I came to stay - on July 3 of the same year - having on board the steamboat from St. Louis a small stock of merchandise, which I persuaded the captain to leave on the upper side of the Jordan, the usual landing being a few rods below. A large number of inhabitants flocked down to the river as the boat drew to the shore. The goods were put into an unfinished store which stood at the foot of Broad street, near the ground now occupied by the Milwaukee depot. The doors not being yet hung. I stayed with the stuff that night, which was perhaps altogether unnecessary, as everybody was imbued with primitive honesty in those days. In fact everybody was bent on making money faster and easier than by stealing. The experience of that first night will never fade from my memory. I had no sooner composed myself for the enjoyment of sleep on a pile of mattresses than a whole battalion of mosquitoes presented their bills in battle array, accompanied by wierd strains of music, which awoke me to the necessity of immediate fortification. So I surrounded my couch with inverted chairs, barrels and boxes, spreading over the whole a web of mosquito netting. I then crawled into my barrack, but my hope of safety was soon dispelled. My attempts at self-defense seemed to increase the energy and fierceness of the assailants; and if only a few found their way in, the hungry cry of the ten thousand without and the possibility of all soon following suit forced me to rise, and grasping the netting, scatter their ranks for a few moments. But the same attack and counter attack were enacted over and over during that longest of long nights, and I wonder to this day whether or not all the mosquitoes in the neighborhood were not notified that a fresh subject had arrived in town that day.

-iOur communication with the rest of the world was by the Mississippi river in the summer, but in the winter this means was cut off most effectually by the ice. True, there was a post route by the river valley, but the mail was carried by a one-horse train. The great mail route from St. Paul to Galena passed through Oronoco, out back from the river some twenty or thirty miles. Hence the necessity arose for a better road, or rather that some definite roadway should be made passable for teams to various points in the interior, which then were tributary to Red "Wing for steamboat landing. To secure this desirable result, a party was formed consisting of William Colvill, Jr., who was later the hero of more dangerous expeditions, T. J. Smith, Spencer, Fellows and one or two .others, with myself and a Mr. Hunt, a teamster. The only way out of Red "Wing to the back country was then by the street now called Central avenue, and between the Twin bluffs. This was the starting point for Oronoco, Featherstone, Cannon Falls, Faribault, Owatonna and other places then known. Our object in this expedition was to find the shortest practicable route to Oronoco, including a place to ford the north branch of the river Zumbro. . We were to be met by another party from the other end of the route, supposed to be as much interested as ourselves. About six miles out we struck the bend in Hay creek, and some five miles beyond, on the prairie, we passed a large burr tree, and not far from it a kind of basin, which seemed to be a receptacle for the surface water. These landmarks have since been largely obliterated. The first night we camped on a little level spot of the prairie, near the banks of the Znmbro. On the opposite bank from our camp was an extensive piece of woods, which came down to the border of the river. This ford was somewhere between the two places since settled and named Zumbrota and Mazeppa. We drove the pins to our tent in a drenching rain and thunder storm. Our beds that night not being conducive to sleep, we had an early breakfast. While some were employed in grading the banks of the stream, others crossed and made an attack on such trees in the woods as would interfere with the passage of a team. We spent several days in clearing a way through these woods. Returning to Hay creek on Friday. Ave put up our tenl near the bend. This creek had not been fished dry of trout, and as Mr. Colvill took more to the department of commissary and cook than the handling of axe, shovel and crowbar, he supplied us with a nice mess of speckled trout for dinner, while the resl of the party worked with a will upon the ravines that led down to the. creek. We spent tin following nighl tenting on that spot. My ardent friends, the mosquitoes, were plentiful and hungry. Ghoosing the least of two evils, we provided a smudge in an iron kettle and tried sleeping in a smoke house, h was not long before a suspicious smell of burnt leather greeted us and aroused us to the fact that avc Avere in danger of a conflagration. One rushed out of the tent with the kettle, and on examination Ave found a hole burned in one of the buffalo robes the size of the bottom of the kettle. Saturday noon found us within fifteen minutes' reach of a a dinner at Red Wing's first class hotel. But the romance of the trip still lingered with us. till Ave had finished up the last delicacies of prairie chicken and trout under some shady oaks near the base of the TAvin bluffs.

"Some later settlers may Avish to know Avhat Ave found to do during the long Avinters and Avinter eA'enings, cut off as we were from the rest of the Avorld. We had lyceums, lectures and a literary society paper instead of the opera. We had regular church serAdces, singing schools and occasional merrymakings. The young folks enjoyed sleigh rides in primitive style. I will give a short account of one. Early in the spring of 1855, as the snow was fast melting away, one afternoon Ave thought it would be the last chance of the season for a sleigh ride, so a party was arranged for that evening and the girls invited. A sleighing party then meant a lot of girls and boys piled into a lumber box placed on runners. But in this case, before it was time to start it commenced to rain, and we spent some time in deciding whether to go on runners or Avheels, or Avhether not to go at all. Finally Ave decided to go on Avheels, and by the time Ave had got the box off the runners and back on Avheels and driven around and collected our load it was 9 o'clock and pitch dark. Dr. F. F. Iloyt and his brother Frank were holding a claim and occupying a shanty near where Mr. Danforth now lives, on the road to the. county poor farm. Dr. William Brown and AY. S. Grow were living with their families in shanties three-fourths of a mile beyond. The party was destined for Mr. Grow's. We had Rev. Mr. Sorin's team, and his hired man. for driver. Coming to Hay creek bottom, we found the road and bridges submerged with at least a foot of water. We crossed one bridge safely, but when we got to where the other one ought to have been we could not find it, and our driver refused to go a step further. To go forward, to be sure, was presumptuous; to attempt to turn around on that narrow pike was pretty certain to spill us all out into the overflowing stream: so we sat down there coaxing and threatening until at last the driver was induced to move on. We gol safely over, went on calling at the Hoyt shanty, routed the boys up and took them aboard. When we reached the iJmw and Brown places both families had retired, but after all our troubles we could not be cheated out of the expected social enjoyment. S<> they were all routed out, and seemed to enjoy the fun as well as we. until the wee small hours came on and the lieht of the moon sent us home."

Near the village of Zumbrota a difficulty in regard to land claims occurred, an incident of which is thus related in the words of C. C. AVebster : "Several of the first settlers, members of the townsite company, had not only selected claims for themselves but, as they stated, for their friends also. These proxy claims were, for a time, respected. Outsiders, however, soon found out about them. One day a load of lumber came in sight from Mazeppa. It was watched with curiosity. Presently it was unloaded on a claim selected by Dr. Perry for a friend of his. and in a brief time a shanty was erected. This was considered a bold invasion upon the rights of the settlers. Next morning at daylight some twenty of us, armed with axes and clubs, resolved to expel the invaders. Upon reaching the shanty a call for surrender was made and in a few moments the shanty was leveled to the ground. There was no one inside. A shout rang through the valley and the valiant heroes retired. During the day the man whose shanty had been demolished appeared upon the scene. At a distance he looked somewhat disconsolate and we fancied he would disappear and not return. Not so, however. The next day he returned with some companions. They seemed to carry something which looked very much like shotguns. The shanty was not again disturbed. AYe thought it best to bottle up our wrath and not take any chances."

'The Red Wing Indians were generally peaceable, but oceasionally we had a row which set the whole village in commotion. Whisky could be obtained over on the Wisconsin side for money, blankets, or anything valuable which the Indians could spare. .Moderate drinking was not their custom. They must have enough to make 'drunk come.' or none at all. Several of them would put their -mites' together and go over and buy two or three gallons at a time, which, being brought home, was drunk up in a short time. This was followed by all the noise and quarreling imaginable, and usually resulted in somebody being either killed or badly wounded.

"Shortly after a row of this kind had taken place, and while there were a number of very sick children in the village, whom I was visiting at the time, I heard a woman cry out, 'Now they are coming with it.' With what.'" said I. She immediately pointed to the river and answered. 'Miimi-wakan' (spirit-water, or whisky). I saw a canoe approaching from the other shore, in which were five or six young braves, who soon landed. I placed myself where the path led up the bank, ready to meet them. The leader carried a tin pail with a cover, holding, I should think, about two gallons. I asked what he had in the pail, and he replied ' Minne-wakan. ' Snatching it from him, it was the work of a moment and the contents of the pail were soaking into the ground.

"Loud talk followed on both sides. I tried hard to convince them thai whisky was contraband on the Minnesota side of the river and advised them not to bring over any more. After leaving them I understood that one of the braves boasted that he would bring whisky here and drink it, and defying me to spill it. "But a few days elapsed before he made the trial. The first intimation I had of it was when an Indian called at my house and wished me to come to the door. I looked out and saw the young braves coming single file, singing as they marched along. The first one carried a two-gallon jug, which he was anxious that I should notice, affirming at the same time that it was whisky. I went for him, got hold of his jug, but could not wrest it from his grasp, for the reason that he had it tied to a strong cord which passed around his neck and over one shoulder, but I managed to pull out the cork and overturn the jug, when the liquor commenced to run out. He let go the jug and clenched me by the hair with both hands, and used me rather roughly until the whisky had all run out, as it took both my hands to keep the jug inverted while he was dragging me about. Well, I had but partially conquered. There were many witnesses and he did not like to give up as entirely beaten, so he stretched himself out full length t)ii the ground near the door of the mission house. 1 entreated him to leave and go i" his wigwam. He declared that he would not. After waiting for some time for him to go voluntarily, and fearing that he might stay there all night, I took a piece of rope, and slipping it around his ankles, tied his feet together, took the other end over my shoulder and dragged him toward his home. After being drawn five or six rods he begged me to let him get up, promising that he would not trouble me any more. He threatened some after he got out of my reach, but never did me any harm. The prohibitory law wras triumphant at that time."

The difficulties of going from one point to another in a country * where there are neither roads nor bridges, hotels nor farm houses, are among the most formidable that first settlers have to encounter. I started in September, 1849, alone on' horseback, to go from Red Wing village to another Indian village on the Minnesota river, to attend the annual meeting of the Dakota mission. I was to follow the Mississippi river up to the mouth of the Minnesota river, and then the latter stream some eighty miles to my place of destination, which was near the place now called St. Peter. The first day I expected to reach Kaposia, which was an Indian village a little below St. Paul. Dr. T. S. "Williamson was the missionary stationed there, and from that point I was to have his company the remainder of the journey. There were no human habitations between Red Wing and Kaposia at that time.

'The morning was wrarm and sultry on the day I set out. I was directed to follow 'the trail.' After fording Hay creek I was convinced that my horse had not been accustomed to follow an Indian trail. The marshy ground on the sides of the creek was rather soft for his wreight. The grass had growTn so tall that season as to hide the trail entirely in many places, and I found it the only safe way to lead my horse over the marshy ground. At the crossing of the Cannon river the same difficulty occurred. The tall grass there reached above my shoulders while I sat on my horse. Where I crossed that stream it was so deep for a short distance that the water took in the horse except his head and a part of his neck.

"After reaching the high prairie between the Cannon and Vermilion rivers, and then crossing the latter without trouble, I could see a long stretch of prairie before me, and knowing there were no more rivers to cross that day, I began to feel that I should reach Kaposia in due time. Occasionally I could see plainly a mark where the Indians' ponies had traveled, and tried to keep the same direction. But the sun shaded with clouds and a storm came on at about 4 o 'clock. The thunder rolled and the lightning flashed. Soon the rain fell in torrents and I could no longer see the trail. The prairie grass covered it. There was a grove apparently at some distance on the left, and I made toward it. The distance was greater than I expected, but I finally reached, not a grove, but a few oak trees scattered widely apart, affording no shelter from the wind and rain. I rode on. Shower followed shower; night came on, and still it rained. Finally I reached a grove where the trees stood near together and were filled in by underbrush. Jt was now so dark that it was impossible to go further with safety. I stood there under the forest through several thunder showers, holding my horse by the bridle, waiting for morning. The ground was too wet to think of lying down, and I leaned my back against a tree and got some sleep. My horse was still near me, biting the herbage. Reconnoitering the ground. I found a path, and by a streak of light which showed where the sun was going to rise 1 knew the points of the compass. Following the path in a northwesterly direction about a mile, I should judge, I came to the village of Mendota, at that time a trading post of the American Pur Company. There I was shown a full trail thai Led to Kaposia, some five or six miles below on the Mississippi river. 1 took thai trail and soon after arrived at the Kaposia mission. Both horse and rider were weary, wet and hungry, and thanks to missionary hospitality, our wants were supplied. For the remainder of the trip I had the company of those who knew the way and had experience in the methods of traveling. Many strange incidents occurred to me during that journey, but the trials of that first day were the most severe. It was the occasion of the annual meeting of the Dakota mission. Once a year all the missionaries to that tribe were accustomed to meet for two or three days and consult together at one of the stations. At this meeting at Traverse des Sioux I first made acquaintance with the older missionaries and learned much of their methods of procedure.

"I learned afterward that oxen were more safe and reliable for traveling through the country than a horse. The Red river trade was then carried on between the United States and Canada chiefly by means of oxen. For transportation they used twowheeled carts, each drawn by an ox.

"In the spring of 1852 I started for Lac qui Parle, the mission station among the Dakotas farthest distant from Red Wing. A young man who was engaged to go there to assist the missionaries accompanied me. Having some baggage, consisting of a small cloth tent and a few blankets for night rests, some carpenter's tools, provisions for ten days, and the mail for the mission families ;ii Lac <|iii Parle, which had been accumulating at Fort Snelling all winter, we loaded all into an ox cart and traveled in Red river style. We were nine days going from Traverse des Sioux to our destination, and no sign of civilization 'lid we meet on the way. There were plenty of sloughs to cross, streams to ford and rainy days and nights to endure. Sometimes we were mired down in a marsh. But our ox was patient. He 'could rest a while and then use his strength again. Often did we lift at the wheels to help release them from the mud. The rains and melting snow had raised all the streams to full banks, and swimming was the last resort in order to cross some of them, which in ordinary times could easily have been forded. We came at last to what was them called the Chippeway river. This was skirted with timber and the wTater was flowing over the timbered bottom. We could not tell where the regular channel was. It seemed to be at least three-fourths of a mile across that valley covered by a swift, rushing stream. "We considered ways and means. Finding a tree in such a position as to be obtained, we cut it down and constructed a small raft, with sections of the trunk fastened side by side and branches spread on the top. But this raft would only carry one of us at a time. It was now near night' and after crossing this stream it would be five miles to the mission, and our provisions were exhausted, or nearly so. My companion agreed to stay there with the ox and cart until another day, while I should go over on the raft and walk to the station, where we could get help. I took the satchel which contained the mail with me and placed it upon some brush near the middle of the raft, and with a pole in my hands, standing close behind the satchel, I commenced my perilous voyage. Had some hard hits against standing trees for a time, and when I reached the real bed of the river my frail vessel was carried down the stream with a rush. I could only use my pole like an oar, and I went down much faster than across, till I came to a fallen tree, the top of which was partly out Of water. I tried to steer the raft around under the tree top. I caught hold of the satchel and followed the raft by clinging to the upper branches, and before it had become disentangled from the tree top I was on board again. I had evidently now crossed the main channel and by clinging to passing trees I made the opposite shore. "Walking along up the stream till I found the track, I pursued my way through a storm of sleet, five miles, to the mission, arriving some time after dark. The next day. by means of a boat belonging at the station, my companion in travel was relieved. I remained at Lac qui Parle more than a week, hoping the waters would assuage, which was the case to some extent.

returning we had a yoke of oxen attached to a lumber wagon for our means of conveyance as far as Traverse des Sioux. .Mission supplies were sent up to that point in boats, and to convey a load of such supplies to the mission it was necessary for this team to go down at that season, which was in the early part of May. I was entrusted with management of the team and, as I had only a light load, expected to enjoy the trip. The distance, as then traveled, between the two stations was a little over one hundred miles. No human habitation, not even an Indian hut. to be seen all that distance. The streams were forded on this oeeasion without difficulty. Although the water would sometimes reach the backs of the oxen and leak into the wagon box. there was a solid bed for our- team to walk on. Not so accommodating were many of the marshes or sloughs. When once you broke through the turf you went down, at least as far as legs would reach. There seemed to be no bottom. On coming to the edge of a slough it was necessary to halt and reeonnoiter. It was never safe to follow any former track. There the turf would already be broken. If there could be no way found to get around, we ventured in and tried to keep the team upon an untrod way. But just at that season, before the new grass had started, the old turf was very tender and very frequently our team went down, so as to be obliged to wallow. until the wagon fnarrow-rimmed wheels) would sink to the hulis. when the oxen would become discouraged and the whole concern would cease to move. The next thing to do was to "rope out." A strong rope sixty or seventy feet long was an indispensible article to carry coiled up in one corner of the wagon box. Thanks to the more experienced, we were provided with one. 'Unloose the team from the wagon and drive them ahead to a piece of firm ground, fasten, the rope to the end of the tongue and the other end to the ring of the oxyoke. Now you can, perhaps, draw your load out of the mud." This was called "roping out." a process which I had become pretty well accustomed to at the end of this journey. Once we were so completely fast that I had to unyoke the team and let each ox get out by himself. Then I yoked them, but before 1 could get them to draw the wagon out I was obliged to unload and carry the loading to a dry place on my shoulders. I took the wagon box off and the team drew it out first. Then I uncoupled the wheels, and by the strength of the oxen drew each pair out separately."

It took time and patience to travel in those days. If I remember rightly, we were eleven days performing that trip, sleeping under our wagon for ten nights in succession. I could never since consider camping-out much of a pleasure. Traveling by canoes and steamboats in those days was a more comfortable mode than

For two years and a half our nearest postoffice was Point Douglas, twenty-five miles by river from Ked Wing. After learning how to manage a log canoe, I could go that distance in one with pleasure.

The missionaries on the upper Minnespta, in conjunction with the Indian traders, used a large boat, carrying several tons, for transporting their goods and supplies from Fort Snelling to their several stations during the summer. In September, 1851, I had the pleasure of a trip on the boat - named Winona - on its return from Traverse des Sroux to the fort.

It had been raining for a week or more, and early in the morning of the day fixed upon for starting the rain was still pattering upon the roof of the mission house. By eight o'clock the storm ceased and the clouds began to disperse. Preparations were immediately made for embarkation. By nine o'clock our party were all snugly packed on board the Winona, a barge of eight tons burden. The party consisted of twenty-four persons ; nineteen were missionaries and their children. Some were returning to their several stations at Shakopee, Oak Grove, Kaposia and Red Wing, after having attended the annual meeting. To complete the number were two Frenchmen, employes of the traders, and three Dakotas. For freight, we had three horses, sixteen packs of furs and a considerable quantity of baggage belonging to one of the mission families, who were on their way to visit friends in Ohio. When all were ready, farewells were exchanged with those left behind, and our little vessel moved out upon the bosom of the charming river. It seemed to me that nothing on earth could have exceeded the variety and beauty of the scenery by which we were surrounded as we glided down the "sky-colored water." The dark rain clouds had disappeared, and the goldenedged tieeces, which appeared in their stead, were moving in majesty, adorning the great archway with their richest drapery, while sheltering the traveler from the too constant heat of the sun. In consequence of the great rain the banks of the river were full, and in many places overflowing. No ghastly forms of uprooted trees, no shelves of dropping mud, nor bars of yellow sand were visible. Every object that could be thought disagreeable was covered by the flowing waters. We sailed on, in our winding course, through banks of living green. The willows, which .skirted the stream in abundance, bending under the force of the current, seemed to be bowing their heads and kissing the water, like things of intelligence expressing their gratitude for favors received. Our course for that day was bounded for many miles by dense forests; occasionally, however, we were greeted by an opening meadow, covered by tall grass. We had a view of nature unalloyed by the hand of art. Night came on at last, and it was not considered safe to continue our journey in the dark. Our barge was directed to the shore and made fast to a stately elm.

After evening prayers, our cheerful company spread their blankets, some on the grassy bank, some on board the boat, and laid themselves down to rest. A little past midnight our rest was disturbed. The moon appeared above the horizon in all its brightness. Tlie land sleepers were aroused mid summoned on board, the line was hauled in, and the boat began again to move down the bold current. Before sunrise we were In sight of what was then called " Prairie ville Station," the village of the chief called Little Six. now Shakopee. On arriving near the mission house our boal was again tied to a tree, and all accompanied Rev. Mr. Pond to his house, where we partook of a warm breakfast, seated at a table once more. After tarrying at that place some two hours, having parted with some of our company, we reembarked and wended our way down the river. The day was fine and the views mosi enchanting. We had left the big woods, and the country was ;i rolling prairie, bu1 no human habitation nor cultivated fields wen- to be seen, until we came to "Oak Grove Station," or Black Dog's village. Here we halted, and left Rev. G. It. Pond. Hie missionary at that station. At about three o'clock in the afternoon we came to Mendota, the meeting of the waters of the .Minnesota and the Mississippi. When Fort Snelling was described in the distance, those missionary children began to dance for joy. Baving been born in an Indian village, they had only seen pictures of really civilized habitations before. Who can describe the feelings of those children on that occasion? Our bark was soon moored under Hie battlements of the fort, and we pursued our way homeward by other methods of conveyance.

While the Dakotas were in possession we had no lack of wild fresh meat, hut the advent of white hunters soon diminished the amount of game in all the region. The Indians were skillful in taking their game by stealth, instead of chasing it with hounds. They were careful not to kill more than necessary at one time. 1 have seen a Dakota go through the prairie grass on all fours, or rather on threes, for he held a shotgun near the ground in one hand. At a few rods distance I should easily have taken him to be a quadruped, lie was on the track of a deer. I have the impression that a fresh sirloin steak of elk or bear, killed by an Indian, in those days was much finer than any meat I have ever eaten which came from a butcher.

time previous to their coming to Red Wing. The story we now relate is told by .Mr. Day, the circumstances occurring while they lived a1 Trenton.

While seated a1 breakfasl one morning, .Mrs. Day called the attention of her husband to a large black object, which at first they thoughl to be a black hog, bu1 which, on closer inspection, proved tit be ;i hear. Day seized a gun, loaded with slugs, and tired at the bear, bu1 the slugs fell short of the mark. The hear look to the river and made for the Minnesota shore, leaving Mr. Day standing disappointedly watching his movements. While thus engaged, a splashing of the water near attracted his notice, and looking in the direction he saw his wife coming towards him with a small skiff. As soon as she discovered that her husband had missed his aim, and thai the hear had taken to the -water. with a -woman's forethought, sin- caught up an axe. and. hurrying to die skiff, unmoored it. and stalled to the aid of her husband, determined that the hear should not escape. As soon as the skiff touched the shore Mr. Day jumped in. and. following Bruin 's wake, succeeded in heading him off and turning him towards the Wisconsin shore. When nearly opposite his home. Mr. Day managed to get near enough to his game to use the axe. A short and desperate struggle ensued, resulting in victory for Day. The bear was towed to the shore, and found to weigh 400 pounds. 'Sir. Day was much praised hy the Indians for his daring and prowess. They forgot that the credit for the success of the adventure belonged to Mrs. Day. Had it not been for her forethought, in taking the axe and came when she did. her husband would have stood there looking until the hear had crossed the river, and made his escape. Mrs. Day was an example of the kind of stuff many of .Minnesota's pioneer women were made of.

The Dakotas of Red AVing used log canoes for navigating the rivers. It required some skill to manage such a craft in the water. My first experience in canoe traveling was rather ludicrous. Being at the landing one day, when a man and hoy were about to launch one of these vessels for a hunting excursion, I asked the privilege of. a ride with them, which was readily granted. As I attempted to board the thing, it slipped from me so quickly that I came near falling into the stream, but the man and boy held the canoe, so that I succeeded in the next attempt. AYe had not gone far up the stream, keeping along near the shore, when 1 noticed the water was not very deep, and having a long stick in my hand, which T had been using for a staff, T thought I might increase the speed and help the rowers. I put my stick- over the side, touched the bottom, and gave a good push. The stick stuck in the muddy bottom, and when T pulled to get it out. quick, almost as lightning, the boat rolled over, and all three were ducked head foremost into the water. AVhen I regained a standing position the two Indians were fishing for their guns and powder horns from the river bottom. We soon secured all the lost baggage, as the water was not more than three feet deep where the catastrophe occurred. It was fortunate for me that I had but little acquaintance with the language at that time. So the scathing rebuke which was given did not arouse my indignation. Acknowledging my ignorance, I promised to keep still in the future, and after wringing some of the water from our garments, we embarked again, and finished the trip without further accident. After this I learned very soon how to paddle the canoe, and frequently took short journeys in one. The same vehicle could be, and was sometimes, used for traveling on land.

On the Fourth of July, 1852, we celebreated the day by an excursion down to the head of the lake, visiting with the trader, Mr. Bullard. and family, at that place. The party consisted of John Bush, Indian farmer, his wife, myself, wife, and one child. Mr. Bush considered that it would be easier to take a team and go by land than to go on the river. A large canoe was brought into requisition. The oxen were hitched to one end by a log chain. We took four seats on quilts in the canoe. Mr. Bush, driving the oxen, walked by their side. The wild grass being quite tall and thick, the canoe glided along where the ground was level like a sleigh over the snow. But in many places the land was uneven. The oxen seemed in good spirits, and walked rather lively. Frequently the canoe struck a stone or a sideling place, and we were immediately turned out. These turnovers were often, and gave ns great merriment. We were thrown out at different times, and found ourselves in all sorts of positions imaginable. Mr. Bush protested that he tried to find the smoothest places, but I rather suspect his honesty. We accomplished the 1 rip, however, had a good time, and returned in the evening with the same consequences of turning over - and fun. That twelve miles of riding in a canoe by land was the most laughable experience of my life.

The Uakotas were a kind people to those who were friendly and kind to them. During several year's' residence among them we had no difficulty with them.

Early in the spring of 1851 a new scholar came to our school with the other children. Her appearance being somewhat strange, we called her the wild girl. It was nothing uncommon for boys and girls to go from one village to another, to stay a month or so, and return again to their parents. The severity of parental discipline, I think, was often the occasion of such wandering. To have a new scholar, some fourteen or fifteen years of age, make appearance at the school was therefore no matter for wonder.

Cut this one was somewhat peculiar in her manner, and attracted attention. There was a wild look in her eyes, and though in girl's dress, her hair had been cut off in front like an Indian boy's hair. She appeared very anxious to learn to read, applying herself with an unusual ardor, but would not say anything about her true residence -and former history. The other children could tell us nothing about whence she came I think she was here about two months or more. Her departure was as unexpected as her coming.

It was but a short time after the wild girl left that the following account appeared in the St. Paul "Pioneer": "In the spring of 1850, at one of the villages on the Minnesota river, a young girl, fourteen years of age, shot another girl, with whom she was quarreling. The deceased was the daughter of a sullen man named Black Whistle. The affrighted girl, after she had fired the gun, fled to the trader's house, and was by him aided to make her escape down to Wabasha's village. While stopping at Red Wing's village, some hundred miles from where the deed was committed, the incensed father overtook her. His first plan was to carry her home and sacrifice her at his daughter's burial scaffold; but, through the influence of some advisors, he changed his plan, and resolved to make her his slave, or his wife. For some time she endured what to her was a living death, and one night she suddenly disappeared.

"Not many days after there appeared at Good Road's village a young Indian boy, stating that he was a Sissetonwan just arrived from the plains. He was well received, no one dreaming that he was the fugitive Indian maiden.

"While in this disguise she went out one day to spear fish, when her enemy, the revengeful father of the girl she had shot, met her and recognized her. He avowed his intention to kill her. She very coolly assented to the justice of what he said, and left. She next appeared at Kaposia, Little Crow's village. Here she passed herself off as a Winnebago orphan, in which disguise she succeeded for a time. Her sex being suspected, she was again obliged to seek for safety by flight, and took up her abode at Red Wing's village, where she dressed like other maidens, and attended the mission school."

On the Wisconsin side, in the early days, there lived a man named Hawley, who had no family with him. He lived in a shanty, alone. He was a cripple, one leg bent almost double at the knee, and yet could walk about tolerably well. He seemed to be holding a claim and trading with woodchoppers, but deriving most of his income from the sale of whiskey to the Indians. Some of the latter, having returned and encamped near the month of

Spring creek in the summer of 1854. were accustomed to visil I [awley's shanty. One day they had a quarrel with him, in regard to some bargains, in which he had deceived them. He ordered them to leave his premises, but they refused, and continued to annoy him, till, in anger, In- shot at them, and wounded one of them so thai be soon after died. There was now a great outcry in thr Indian camp. Every white person who came near was threatrued and ordered away. People were under the impression that revenge was meditated upon somebody. Hawley had fortified his shanty with loaded rifles. It was reported thai lie threatened to shoot the first man who came to lake him. The few settlers in Red Wing, Burnside and Vasa were very much alarmed. The alarm almost created a stampede. A deputation, consisting of Dr. \V. AY. Sweney, Lawyer I'. Sandford, and the writer, all beinsi' well known by the Indians, visited their camp to make peace, if possible. We were kindly received, and a Tier a short talk, were convinced that they did not intend to injure any one excepl Hawley. Whatever became of him we do not know. It was reported that his shanty was descried very soon after. The Indians watched him day and night, and he was probably hilled in his last attempl to make his escape.

Early in March, 1866, the regular weekly papers contained notices headed "Oil Well in Red Wing!" "Steady Flow of Petroleum!"' "A -Joint Stock Company Organized," etc. The facts of the case were thai a party of men had keen engaged in digging for water For household purposes in the eastern part of the village, between Barn and Sorin bluffs. They found water twenty feet below the surface, hut not sufficienl in quantity for the purposes required. Consequently, they continued to dig deeper. The nexl morning, after having found water, they commenced dipping oiii that which had run in during the uight. Immediately tin1 strong odor of petroleum was realized, hut they kept on digging. And the next morning the same thing happened. There was clear evidence of oil on the water before it was stirred. A portion was saved for visitors to smell of during the day. Every morning, for several days in succession, some si^ns of oil were apparent in the water drawn out of that well.

A joint stock company was actually organized. The stock was all taken, officers chosen, and the operations commenced. There were some doubting Thomases, however, who would wait for a dearer view.

Soon after the news had gone abroad in the papers under the headline "Steady Plow of Petroleum in East Red Wing," and almost everybody seemed to have oil on the brain, the doubters set a watch over the famous well during the dark and black night. And when the stillness of midnight had settled down upon all around, behold! the sofi light of ;i" old-fashioned lantern drew gently near the mouth of the well. The watchers soon seized hold of ilif midnighl light-bearer, and found in his possession a tin can of kerosene oil! !t is hardly necessary to add thai the Red Wing Oil Company's office was closed very soon. The expenses of the company had amounted to only about twenty-five dollars when the business wound up. There was a shorl paragraph in the papers the following week headed, "The Oil Well a Sell!" which gave the report of the nighl watchmen.

So soon after the discovery of gold in California, and the oil wells of Pennsylvania were beginning to yield so abundantly of the means for artificial light, ii would not be considered at all strange if the first-comers into a new region should be constantly looking for something beneath the soil to encourage their hope of a future fortune. And such was acutally the case among the early settlers in this county.

Many times it was announced in the Red Wing papers that some farmer had found strong indications of coal on his place. Digging for the precious fuel was often resorted to, but it invariably ended in disappointment. Some men discovered gold dust among the sand which had been thrown out of an excavation made for a fence post in Red Wing at one time, which raised excitement enough to help up the price of real estate. At another time gold was discovered in the south part of the county on the Zumbro river. The bed of that stream was considered, for a few days, a rich find. About a bushel of the yellow sand was brought in to Red Wing, to be washed and tested as to its value and purity. The test proved that gold was actually found, but not in paying quantities.