McLeod County, Minnesota - Chapter 5: Martin Mcleod and His Times, 1917

The county was named for Hon. Martin McLeod, who, was one of its earliest visitors and pioneers, and who had promoted its organization, as he had that of Hennepin county, and who was one of the most prominent and influential men of the Territory, at the time.

Martin McLeod was far more than a medivcre man. His large ability was recognized very readily by his fellow pioneers and he was placed in positions of trust and influence in which he rendered important service for the development and general welfare of Minnesota, He was the colleague of Joseph R. Brown, General H. H. Sibley, Alexander Ramsey, Norman W. Kettson, and others who laid the foundations of the commonwealth of timbers good and strong and securely placed. He was born at Montreal of Scotch parentage in 1813 and came to Minnesota in 1837, He was a trader under Sibley for many years. He established a homestead at Bloomington, on the north bank of the Minnesota, in the southern part of Hennepin county, in 1849, and here he died November 20, 1860, at the age of 47. His family, of course, was Scotch. The name Leod is Scotch Gaelic and according to the Gaelic dictionaries, means a mangling or cutting. Its application as a human name meant that the recipient mangled or cut in pieces the victims he slew. Mc is a contraction of the Gaelic word "mac," which means a son. Therefore McLeod means the son of a man that mangles the bodies of those he slays. Some of the common people among the Scotch say that Mac Leod means a wood eutter, Glencoe is also Gaelic for a little valley: Glen, a valley; coe, (a contraction of coeh) small or little.

Martin McLeod came to Minnesota from Manitoba in the early spring of 1837, so early that winter was still on. He had a most thrilling and perilous experience en route. Leaving Pembina February 26, in company with two lieutenants of the British army - an Irishman named Hayes and a Polander named Pars - and with the renowned Pierre Bottineau as a guide, he soon encountered snow storms and finally March 17, was struck by a terrific blizzard. In this storm the two officers perished and McLeod and Bottineau came near their deaths. They arrived at Joseph R. Brown's trading house at Lake Traverse March 21; reached Lac qui Parle April 7, and Fort Snelling April 16.

After his death some of his papers, especially his diaries, came into the possession of his firm, faithful, and intimate friend, Col. John H. Stevens, so frequently mentioned in this history. In his interesting and valuable little book, entitled "Recollections of Minnesota and Its People'' (1890) Gol. Stevens (pp. 345-53) copies the portions of McLeod's diary or Journal narrating his adventuresome journey into Minnesota. Although occupying considerable space, the part of the journal referred to is reprinted in this volume, for the reason that it narrates a remarkable incident in the life of the man for whom McLeod county was named and who was its most prominent founder, and for the additional reason that it describes one of the dreadful perils to which early visitors to the Minhesota country were liable.

"Sunday, February 26, 1837. Left LaFourche, Red River Colony, Territory of Hudson's Bay, in the evening, and came three miles up the settlement to prepare for an early start tomorrow on foot for St. Peter's, 750 miles from this.

"Monday, February 27, Started at daybreak; cold, with a Sharp head-wind. About 10:00 P, M, a severe snow-storm rommenced ; obliged to take shelter in the house of Mr. Micklejohn, Came about five miles; 5:00 P. M. cleared off; prospects of a fine day ; preparing snow shoes, etc., for journey.

. Wednesday, March 1, Lett encampment at sunrise; found it exceedingly cold sleeping out after having been in the house for two months. Came forty miles today. Arrived at * shanty where we found fourteen persons, men, women, and children, without food, They had been living for seven days With an occasional hare and pheasant. The hunter's life is evera Precarious one. We relieved them with pemmican from our stock for the journey, which will in all probability be the CaUsS of our fasting some days before we reach Lake Traverse, the first trading-post from this, distant more than 400 miles.

Friday, March 3, Had a cold and stormy night; unable to eave camp before nine o'clock; wind ahead until 12:00 o'clock, When it changed to the north and brought with it a snowei which caught us on the prairie many miles from shelter; one of our party, Mr. Pars, not having come up, we eneamped. Mr. Pars has no snowshoes; he persisted in not bringing any with him, which may yet lead to unhappy consequences as he is unable to keep up with us on the plains, and should we be separated by a storm he will inevitably perish; indeed the poor fellow this day said he would perish in this journey. Felt miserably fatigued, and my feet are severely blistered with the strings of my snowshoes; at every step the blood from my toe oozes through my moccasins. We came through a beautiful prairie today, enclosed on three sides by woods which can be distinctly seen from the middle of the prairie; on the north by the wood on Pembina river; west by Pembina mountain, south by the trees bordering Tongue river - forming almost a complete circle of at least 100 miles.

"Monday, March 6. Bad walking; snow deep; encamped at 2:00 P. M, on Saline river, one of our party being too fatigued to proceed. Neay the mouth of the river is a salt factory which must prove profitable as salt is worth sixteen shillings per bushel at Red River Settlement, 250 miles hence. The water here is perfectly clear and palatable; it is from a small lake, about twenty miles from this downwards, that the Saline flows.

"March 7. Last night excessively cold; today unable to leave camp; so stormy that it is impossible to see the distance of ten yards on the plain, and the distance to the next wood or place of encampment is more than thirty miles, which would endanger our lives should we attempt to eross the plain in the storm. Such is one of the many disadvantages encountered by the traveler in this gloomy region at this inclement season.

March 9. Excessively cold and stormy until noon; came long distance today ; encamped long after sundown on a branch of Goose river; feel very fatigued; my feet cut and swollen from the continual use of the snowshoes, which, however, I begin to like, and prefer keeping them on where there is but little snow, and where they might be dispensed with; travel a greater distance in a day, with than without them; such is custom.

"March 11. Unable to make the "grandetraverse," (fifty miles) to Cheyenne river, the day being misty, and the landmarks which guide the traveler on the plains not visible. Came a short distance and encamped on the lower tributary of Goose river.

+s eS; se hills ; not a tree or shrub visible 7 Saw thirteen png na eck at by guide, (Pierre geet a hh with though severely wounded; Mr. Pars aeieg vs eens: te are aeroee aut to lose him, consequently we t. Obliged to take across the plain to a place of EDeAE pen ae among a few up our place of rest for the night ese Fi an the past months, rushes, the only shelter for miles AroUnG; seen and felt the in moments of extreme suffering, T Fane acaaly Pile aver. interposition of a ruling and merciful Prov rest torments for ing, while we were all suffering the sattt ins any for many want of water, and without hope of re 2 a ecanscs. ot two hours, the guide espied at a distance t mee led him to the buffaloes. Being a hunter himself, sige es he found = few Spot when, to his great delight, and our re 'i nter a few days small pieces of wood, brought there by a hu more comfortable night ie ech » Morning miserable, having to creep ee niatna alo skins, tie on our snowshoes, and ta ra t. I took a ourselves; no fire, no water, no afi handful of small piece of frozen pemmican, and ate it wi ssible to warm Snow, at the same time walking as fast ae DO mnie MSH: ante myself. Soon after we started a violent det him to take a Said we were lost and all would perish ; adi ved t purpose to direct course, as near as possible, and for he eon since Keep before the wind. At 3:00 P. M., hat through the daybreak more than thirty miles, we perceived, fter happy drift, a clump of trees, where we arrived soon a aie it is to escape Passing a second night on the pratt Savtinath. more than probable we should have all been froze ic Hegre The guide says we did not come much out of our alled the that we are on a branch of the Cheyenne river, ¢ 'River of Rushes,' t's "March 14, Last night so cold could not get a ae Sleep; today in camp; guide unable to go on, with sil edron "March 16, Came through two prairies and encamp eyenne river, 5 ft. the "Priday: March 17, 1887. This morning, wiih i hes Sand "amp, the weather was very mild and Pleasant; gui time Mr. ered tracks of a deer and went in pursuit of it; mean ross the Hayes, Mr. Pars, and myself, directed our scree ae pee plain towards a point of wood on Rice eee ey Sah Ga 11:00 o'¢loe » 2 storm from the north came up that no p describe. We made toward the wood as fast as possible; it was distant about three miles. I was foremost, the dogs following close to me. Mr. Hayes was not far distant, and Mr. Pars was two miles behind. In a few moments nothing was perceptible, and it was with difficulty 1 could keep myself from suffocating ; however, I hastened on and in a short time caught a glimpse of the wood through a drifting cloud of snow. I was then not more than 300 yards from it. as near as I can possibly judge.

"At that instant I also saw Mr. Hayes, who had come up within 30 yards of me and called out that I was going in the wrong course, exclaiming, 'keep more to the right.' I replied, 'No, no; follow me quick.' I perceived him to stoop, probably to arrange the strings of his snowshoes. In an instant afterwards an immense cloud of drifting snow hid him from my view and I saw him no more. I cannot describe what my feelings then were; what must they have been a few seconds afterward when I found myself at the bottom of a ravine, twenty feet deep, from which I had to use the greatest exertion to save myself from being suffocated by the snow which was drifting down upon me,

"Upon gaining the edge of the ravine, which I effected with the greatest difficulty, having my snowshoes still on, (as my hands were too cold to untie the strings, which were frozen) I found the poor faithful dogs with their traineau (Traineau is French for sled or sledge) buried in a snow bank. Having dug them out, my next effort was to gain the wood, which I knew was on the opposite side of the ravine, about 20 yards over, yet 1 could not distinguish a tree, so close and thick was the snow drifting. An hour's exertion with the dogs and traineau through the deep snow in the ravine brought me into the edge of the wood, which I found was composed of only a few seattered trees, which would afford but a miserable shelter. I tried to make a fire. My matches were all wet; my hands were too cola to strike a spark with the flint and steel; what could be done? 'I must not perish,' said I to myself. I then thought of my companions, Alas, poor fellows, there could be no hope for them, as I had all the blankets, buffalo robes, provisions, etc., the dogs having followed me in the storm.

"Having dug a hole in the snow bank, I made a sort of a shelter with my cloak and a blanket, and rolled myself in a blanket and a large buffalo robe. I was then completely wet through, for a shower of sleet had accompanied the storm. In a few moments it began to freeze; I was then so cold that I feared much that I would perish during the night, The night came; the storm continued unabated; my situation was truly miserable; companions and guide in all probability perished; myself in great danger of freezing also; and in a strange country some hundred miles from any trading post or settlement.

"I cannot say what I felt, although my usual feelings would arise to my relief frequently, and I would say to myself, 'What is passed cannot be helped; better luck next time; take it cooly' - which I was evidently doing with a vengeance! The greater part of the night was passed listening to the roaring of the storm and the dismal howling of the wolves, together with the pleasant occupation of rubbing my feet to keep them from freezing.

"Saturday, March 18. Never was light more welcome to a mortal. At dawn I erept from my hole, and soon after heard cries. Fired two shots; soon after guide came up; he had *scaped by making a fire, and being a native, and a half-blood, his knowledge of the country and its dangers saved him. Mr. Pars was found with both his legs and feet frozen. All search for Mr, Hayes proved ineffectual. Remained all day near the Scene of our disaster in the hope that some trace of Mr. Hayes might be found.

"Sunday, March 19. Started early with poor Pars on the Yog traineau; at 2:00 P, M., found dogs unable to proceed with Pars, and he suffering too much to bear the pain occa- + cd by moving about. With the help of the guide made a hut to leave Mr. Pars in, where he will remain for five or six days, until T can send horses for him from Lake Traverse, 60 miles from this, Left with Mr. Pars all our blankets and Tobes, except a blanket each for guide and myself; also plenty of wood cut, and ice near his lodge to make water of. Out of Provisions; obliged to kill one of our dogs, dog meat excellent eating,

Tuesday, March 21. Left the Bois des Sioux at sunrise pad arrived at dark at the trading house at Lake Traverse, ieee traveled 45 miles with a severe pain in my side and horses and a cart for Mr. Pars and my trunk, ete.; with instructions to the men to search for the body of Mr. Hayes in order that it might be decently interred at the trading house.

"April 1. For the past nine days have remained at the trading house where I am well treated by Mr. (J. R.) Brown, the gentleman in charge for the American Fur Co. Saw the game of la crosse played very frequently, by both the squaws and the Indians. It is a very interesting game when well contested, and the female players are most astonishingly expert.

"April 2. This morning the two men returned, Poor Pars is no more. They found him in the hut, dead. He had taken off the greater part of his clothes, no doubt in the delirium of a fever caused by the excruciating pain of his frozen feet. In the hut was found nearly all the wood we left him, the tood, and a kettle of water partially frozen. Everything indicated that he had died the second or third day of our departure from him. No trace of the body of Mr. Hayes was found. The poor fellow has long ere this become food for the savage animals that prowl around the boundless wilds. Thus has miserably perished a young and amiable young man at the age of twenty, in the full vigor of youth, full of high hopes and expectations.

"April 3. This day the body of poor Pars was consigned to his last abode, the silent and solitary tomb. It is a source of consolation to me, amid my troubles, that I have been enabled to perform this last duty to a friend with all due respect. Would that I could say the same of Mr. Hayes. I have, however, left directions with all the Indians near the post to search for his bones and inter them. They ave about to depart on their spring hunts and will in all probability find his remains. I can do no more.

Friday, April 7. Cold and stormy; had some difficulty in getting across Pommede de Terre river ; made horses swim; got. the baggage and cart across on some pieces of jammed ice; arrived at Lac-qui Parle at 2:00 P. M.; well received by Mr. Renville, who has a trading post for the Indians here,

"Sunday, April 9. Went to hear Mr, Williamson preach. also read a chapter from the New Testament in Dakota, and a young man present read another chapter in French, A number of the Psalms of David were sung in Dakota by halfreeds and Indians. The audience consisted of half-breeds, Indians, Canadians, and a few whites. onday, April 10. Came 30 miles; encamped at River L, April 11; came thirty-five miles; en- "amped at 6:00 Pp, M, near the St. Peter's river. Crossed to- : ", (Beaver), and Petite (little) rivers. Saw a i of wild geese and swans, 3. Came 30 miles; eneamped at 5:00 P. M. at the Monte de Sioux, at the trading house of Mr. Provencalle, ; Embarked at sunrise in a canoe with 4ws who were going down to where the St. company Mississippi ; at Fort Snelling. Have for People a en Indians and squaws, in three canoes. These deceased ret mm One of their canoes the bodies of two of their " tesla Which they intend carrying to a lake near many j, ee ore than one hundred miles from this. In Nstancag these beople bring the bodies of their friends eposited ied When it is the wish of the dying person to be "Saf ae a Particular place, then *y es April 15. Morning rainy ; did not leave encampwey 11:00 O'clock; 3:09 P. M. passed Petite (Little) * and arrived at the trading house of Mr. Faribault, ire Stopped a few moments, M. At last have arrived at ng escaped a variety of dancountry ndured great fatigue and privations in the Sioux mene ng Sete epeated on preceding pages, and comof this distingw Seneral characte; years of age, and during his life as a fur trader, he met with other thrilling adventures. He was stationed for some time out on the frontier, and his duties required him to make frequent journeys among the Indians in all kinds of weather and under varied circumstances. On one occasion, in 1844, he went to the Bald Butte, up on the Cheyenne, in what is now North Dakota. On his return, he encountered some Yankton Sioux, who had been up to the Red river country and had been fired on by the half-breeds, losing some of their number. A few hours before McLeod ran into them they had come upon a tramp trader, from whom they had procured some whiskey and they were now wild, wolfish and reckless. They fired some shots at McLeod, who squared himself before them, and finally charged them, telling them if they harmed him at all they had better kill him at the first shot, or he would kill some of them; that unless he was killed he would take the matter of revenge into his own hands, but if he perished the traders and retainers would avenge his death a hundred fold. He escaped without injury, but the next day came near being trampled to death by an immense herd of buffaloes."

The memory of Martin McLeod, one of the best specimens of these gallant and adventurous spirits is one that Minnesotans must ever delight to honor. This sturdy Schotch- Canadian had all the qualities of a leading pioneer. He was intelligent, quick-witted, and sagacious; he was well educated, well informed, and even accomplished. In his little trading-house far up in the wilderness near Lac qui Parle, his hours of recreation were spent in reading Plutarch, Ben Jonson, Shakespeare, Montesquien and the best literature of the day, and he was continually sending down to Sibley at St, Peter, his superior in the fur trade, for more books.