McDonald County, Missouri - Chapter 1: Location and Topography, 1897

Chapter 1: Location and Topography

McDonald County is situated in the extreme southwest corner of the state, having the Indian Territory for its western boundary and Arkansas for its southern. Newton county lies north, and Barry, east. In addition to the magnetic variation, the west line of the state bears west v hich makes the county three -fourths of a mile wider at the south side than at the north. The south line bears north of east, making the county narrower at the east side than at the west. The actual dimensions of the county within a few rods from north to south is, at the Avestend 181-2 miles; at. the east end 17 1-4 miles. From east to west, on the north line it is 30 3-4 miles, and 30 miles on the south. It, therefore contains about 550 square miles. The general altitude above the sea level is about 1100 feet. The surveys of the county show that from the water level in the streams to the summit of the highest hills is 365 feet. This elevation is reached either by gradual ascent from the mouth to the source of the water courses, or by an abrupt rise, in places being almost perpendicular.

It has been quite a difficult task to ascertain the origin of the name, but all the old settlers state that the county was named after an officer in the Revolutionary War. Dr. Duval and W. C. Price think he was one of Marion's men.

The surface of the county is quite diversified. In the northwest corner, or nearly so, a point of Swors Prairie projects into this county, there being perhaps 300 acres of prairie land this side of the Newton county line. There is, also, a small body of prairie land near the northeast corner of the county, called Mitchells prairie, from a family of that name who settled there in the early days. White Rock prairie is a small body of prairie land in White Rock township. It derives its name from the white, chalky appearance of the stone which is found there in large quantities. In the southwest part of the county, the Cowskin prairie extends some five miles square, and contains some very fine farms.

Between the various valleys and streams are uplands covered with all varieties of timber grown in this part of the state. These uplands are, usually, comparatively level, and are called Flat Woods . This name was applied by the southern people who settled here in the earlydays, and signifies ' 'barrens ". Until within the last few years they were supposed to be worthless but are now being rapidly put into cultivation, and have proved to be quite productive. Many of the best farms in the county are now on this "barren" land. Along the valleys pertaining to all the streams the bottom lands are generally fertile, and produce all kinds of crops in abundance. The soil in all parts of the county is much more productive than it appears to be to one who is not acquainted with it. Clover grows rankly on the hill sides and uplands that appear to be covered with nothing but gravel. Blue grass does quite well when it is once set, but it is difficult to get it started. Orchard and other grasses where tried, have generally proven a success, but up to the present writing the experiments have not been very extensive. Fruit trees grow rapidly and come early into bearing, while small fruits of almost every variety scarcely ever fail, and are of the finest quality and flavor.

Between the valleys and water courses and the uplands, are usually ranges of hills. They are generally steep, high, and often rise in perpendicular cliffs. These abrupt hills and hollows are called brakes, and are generally worthless except for the timber and for range, or pastures.

These brakes are not confined to any locality, but are contiguous to all the streams. The largest bluffs are found along the river where in places they rise perpendicularly several hundred feet, and form some of the grandest scenery in the Great Southwest. Along the southern border of the county the surface is generally broken, and in the southeast part the hills rise almost to the magnitude of mountains. The valleys and coves in this broken part of the county are, however, exceptionally rich, and contain many fine farms and prosperous inhabitants.

Water Courses

Beginning in the northwest part of the county, the first stream of note is Buffalo creek, which enters the county on the north line about five and one-half miles from the northwest corner and bears south and west, passing into the Indian Territory near Tiff City. It is a beautiful stream of water fed by springs, and along its bottoms are some of the richest farms in the county. It was named many years before a white man ever thought of settling on its banks. I have not been able to learn his name nor the date in which he made his journey, but have been reliably informed that the name Buffalo, was given this creek by the first Catholic Missionarythat ever visited the Indians of this part of America. During his journey considerable heavy rain fell and the creek, as well as the river rose until it was past fording, and the party was obliged to go into camp between the two streams until the water ran down. While thus delayed a buffalo cow was killed by one of the party and the robe, or skin, was preserved. From this event the missionary gave the name Buffalo to the creek and Cow Skin to the river. A very pretty origin for the names of two of the most noted streams in our county.

Next south of this is Patterson creek, named from John Patterson, an old bachelor who settled on the creek about the year 1833. The creek rises about two miles west of the town of Anderson and runs principally west, passing into the Territory about a mile south of Tiff City. South Indian creek takes its source at a large spring in the town of Rocky Comfort and runs south of west for some ten or twelve miles where it connects with the main creek which has its source in Newton county, and enters McDonald county about twelve miles from the northeast corner. The main creek flows south and west from where it enters this county, and empties into Elk river just above the old town site of Rutledge. This is one of the most beautiful of streams; throughout its entire length the rich bottom lands, line farms, herds of all kinds of stock and comfortable, home-like houses and barns, impress one with the belief that he is in one of the favored spots of the earth. Many years ago, in the earliest settlement of this part of Missouri there was an Indian camp on this creek just about where it now crosses the north line of this county. The name was given it from this Indian camp.

East of this, and still in the northern part of the county are the North and South Elk Horn. These two streams each rise from springs and are fed by the same means. The Valleys are narrow but very productive, and many nice farms are found along these two streams.

Many of the older inhabitants do not remember the origin of the name, but I have been able to glean the information that it was formerly the grazing and stamping ground for heards of elk, and the name was given on account of finding horns of these animals along the two streams. Mr. John Roseberry, now deceased, more than sixty years ago found an immense set of elk horns in that vicinity. He was a large, tall man, but the horns were so large that when the tips were placed on the ground he could stand straight under the crown. This may seem somewhat incredible, but it is vouched for by so many reputable citizens that it is given as an absolute fact.

In connection with this part of the county we have gleaned the following little romance which we give as a beautiful illustration of the dusky heroes and lovers of long ago. Perhaps it will be of sufficient interest to pardon the digression.

The Story

Long before there were any white settlers in any of the south western counties of Missouri a band of Indians used to make their annual hunting expeditions through this country. One of their regular camps was on Indian creek near the north line of this county. From this camp they would scour the country for miles around in search of game. Among this tribe was a young warrior who had long, in vain, sought to gain the love of a dusky maid who proved adverse to all his entreaties. One evening after his proffered love had again been rejected, in his lonliness and despair, he went out in the stillness of the night and, gazing on the stars that twinkled so brightly, as if in mcckery of his anguish, he breathed a prayer to the Great Spirit to make him worthy of the maiden and to enable him to gain her love. At length, worn out by his melancholy vigils, he wrapped himself in his robes an 1 laid down to pursue in his troubled dreams the thoughts that would not leave his mind either awake or asleep.

hunting trip, and during the day visited the locality where a herd of elk were known to use. Being unsuccessful in his search for game, he wandered around until late in the afternoon, tired and thirsty, he concluded to go to the big spring at the head of North Elk Horn, and spend the night there alone. As he came near the place he heard the scream of a woman and the. angry snort of an elk. Rushing down the hill at lightning speed, he saw a large male elk just as it struck the maid, and heard a stifled groan as she rolled on the ground and was trampled beneath the feet of the enraged animal. One twang of his bow sent an arrow on its death-dealing mission; an instant his hunting knife gleamed in the sun, then sank deep in the side of the animal, which rolled -over and died. The warrior -gathered the insensible form of the girl in his arms, and as he looked in her face beheld the object of his affections. He carried her to the spring, bathed her in the cool water and in a few moments she revived. Her injuries were not serious, and for many long and happy years that elk's horns stood over the door of their wigwam, the grandest of all his trophies. Ever after that spring was called the Elk's Horn, and the name was eventually extended to the two beautiful streams.

empties into Big Sugar creek in center township 2 miles below Powell. It was named from John B. King the first settler. He was a lawyer, saw mill man and figured quite prominently in the Pine War which occurred in the early settlement of the county.

Mike creek rises in Richwood township near the Barry county line, and runs south and west, emptying into Big Sugar creek about one mile above the mouth of Kings creek. The name was given from the first settler on that stream, Philip Michael, who located on the farm now owned by Henry Green Fox, in the year 1857.

Big Sugar creek has its source in Benton Co., Ark. , and , enters this county in Mountain township near the southeast corner, runs north and principally west to the town of Pineville where it unites with Little Sugar and forms Elk, or Cowskin river. Little Sugar rises in Benton county, Ark., enters this county at Caverna in White Rock township, and runs west and north until it makes the connection above mentioned.

The two streams derive their names from the quantities of sugar maples that f orinely grew in great numbers along their bottoms. There used to be a number of sugar tree orchards on these two creeks, and the early settlers were abundantly supplied with maple syrup and sugar.

Mill creek lies in the southern part of Pineville township and connects with the river just above the town of Noel. It derives its name from a saw mill erected near its mouth by Moses Martin about 1835. It was operated by horse power, and afterward a pair of corn burrs were added. South and southwest of this is Butler creek which empties into the river just below the town of Noel. The upper part of this stream is called Deer creek; so called from the numerous herds of deer found there in early days. Butler creek was named from Chas. Butler who settled at the place now owned by Chas. Heath about the year 1840.

Elk River, also called Cowskin, is formed, as stated, by the junction of the two Sugar creeks at the town of Pineville, and flows principally west, meandering north and south at various parts. From Rutledge it flows nearly south about three miles, then bears north until it crosses the state line and enters the Territory about two miles north of the parallel on which it starts; thence westwardly until it empties into Grand river in the Indian Territory. This stream was declared navigable by act of Congress many years ago, but it has never been practical for that purpose, there being too many narrow and shallow places. The valley or bottom is from one-half to two miles wide and the soil is very rich. Many large and productive farms are along its banks and the owners are counted way up in the thousands in wealth.

There are various other small streams and valleys along which are found many productive farms, but the above are the principal water courses worthy of note.

These streams are all fed by springs, and the water is usually cold. One peculiarity of the smaller water courses is that they become ' 'lost ' ' or run under ground much of the way. At one point the water will be running like a mill race, perhaps fifty yards below the bed will be perfectly dry, then again the water comes to the surface going with a rush until it again rises and so on until it reaches a larger body.