Tisbury Town (part 5 of 5)

At this time they were probably unsettled, either by whites or Indians. Three years before this (1638) Underhill, in his *'Newes from America," stated that the "Ehzabeth Hands all these places are yet uninhabited." It does not appear that Mayhew took any steps to attract settlers or to dispose of his rights to others for many years, nor is there any contemporary evidence of Englishmen living here for the next twenty-five years. The name of Quick's Hole is of contemporary usage (before 1670), and suggests an original form of an English surname of a person who may have lived at that place.* This, however, is but a conjecture.

Mayhew and his son began, in 1654, the purchase of the Indian "rights" to these islands, securing Cataymuck first (1654), while Nonamessit "with several other islands" had been conveyed by the Sachem Seayick in various deeds, before 1668, but unrecorded. Coincident with this, in the larger domain of government politics, the proprietorship of these islands was being transferred from Lord Stirling's heirs to the Duke of York, in 1663, although in the Duke's Patent of 1665 they are not mentioned by name. This, however, was of small moment to court politicians, and on Jan. 3, 1667-8,

'One William Quick, a mariner, was of Charlestown (1636), and removed to Newport two years later. He left Rhode Island in June, 1644, on account of religious troubles [4th Mass. Hist. Coll., V, 194; VH, 55, 323-4]. His avocation as a mariner would naturally lead him to and fro through the Vineyard Sound when going between Boston and Newport.

Colonel Richard NicoUs, the Duke's representative in New York, wrote to Mayhew that "all the Islands except Block Island from Cape Cod to Cape May are included in my Masters patent." This was sufficiently comprehensive to include the Elizabeth group, and Col. Francis Lovelace, in his notice of May 1 6, 1670, addressed it "to all Persons concerned who lay of the Elizabeth Isles," among the other places enumerated. By this process of benevolent assimilation these waifs and strays on the map came to be under the jurisdiction of New York. The individual ownership of such indefinite property was of little concern in those times, and transfers of title were seldom recorded. For this reason the early holders of the several islands composing this group have pretty successfully evaded detection. It is known that some of them were purchased before 1671 by William Brenton of Newport, but no record of it has been preserved other than an adjudication of his title in that year.^

The Nashanow Islands

This group of islands was known as Nashanow to the Indians of the seventeenth century, and the following statements relative to the aboriginal ownership of some of the group establishes the priority of this name. It is the only occurrence of it known to the author, and its similarity to Naushon will be noted. Probably it is the origin of the name of the largest island, Naushon.

The testimony of Old Hope, the Indian of Mannomett, as foUoweth: - Saith, that hee knew the Uttle island, lying next Saconessett, called Nanomeesett, and a necke of land or little Hand called Uckatimest, belonging to the great Hand called Katomucke, and another little iland lying between the said great iland and Nanomesett belonging to Job Antiko, his grandfather Comucke, and soe to Jobs father, Thomas Antiko; and said Hope further saith that the said great iland, called Katomucke, and another little iland called Peshchameesett, to belonge to Webacowett.

'In his will, proved Nov. 13, 1674, Brenton gave to his son-in-law, Peleg Sanford, "all interests in Elizabeth Islands and Gay Head lands." The inventory of his estate includes "my part in Elizabeth Island, ;£40."

Thomas Antiko to give the above said Hand Nanomeesett, and the said necke and httle iland unto his two sons James and the abovesaid Job Antiko, for many year agon, being near the time that Napoitan, sachem of Barnstable died of the smale pox/

Aborigines And The Missions

It is doubtful if there were many Indians who lived on these islands as a permanent abode. They were not fitted for their support on account of their size, with the exception of Naushon, and we may conclude that they were temporary habitations for them during the summer season and when the fishing was good. These Indians seemed to have no tribal connection with those of the Vineyard, but held allegiance to the Sachem of Buzzards Bay, who was a vassal of "a great Sachime upon the Mayne near Pacannakicke." In 1654 Seayick was the local Sachem and in 1666 it was Quaquaquijott.

Few myths and traditions of Algonquian origin relating to these islands have been preserved. Wait Winthrop, Jr., who used to spend some vacations here about 1700 at his father's island (Naushon), has recorded some that he heard. One was to the effect that before the English came to America there was a white whale kept in the great pond at the west end of Naushon. Another relates to the great Indian deity building a stone bridge from the mainland to Nonamessitt, during which he was bitten by a crab. Snatching his hand away suddenly with pain he flung the crab over to Nantucket whence grew all the crabs in that region.

There is a singular absence of Algonquian place names, exclusive of the names of the islands forming the group, and this is a further indication that it was not much more than a place of resort and rather less than an abode. In 167 1 Mayhew stated that there were "15 families [of Indians] at Elizabeth lies 7 whereof praying families."

These islands were likewise in the missionary field of the Mayhews, the work beginning about this date with some native converts as assistants to the elder Thomas Mayhew.

How long the work was continued regularly is not known, but John Weeks was preaching to the Indians in 1700 at a salary of ;!^io per annum/ and later a native preacher, Jannohquosso, held services here. In 1727 another native, Daniel Shohkau, "still preached the Gospel to a few families at Winthrops Island" (Naushon). With the increase of the white settlers the conditions were not favorable nor congenial for the two races to live on these small islands together, and it is probable that the last Indian had left before the close of that century.^

Incorporated With Tisbury Manor, 1 67 1

When the Mayhews were in New York arranging their affairs with Governor Lovelace in 1671, the charter of Tisbury Manor was created on July 8th, as explained elsewhere, and this group of islands was made a part of that disjointed manor. Its connection with the town of Chilmark thus began and was to continue for nearly two centuries. Again, on Nov. i, 1683, it was included by name in the establishment of Dukes County as ''Elizabeth's Island," - and when the Lordship and Manor of Martha's Vineyard was created in 1685 the Elizabeth Islands were included in the new dignity.^ After the transfer of jurisdiction from New York to Massachusetts by the charter of 1 69 1, the Elizabeth Islands were again named in the act confirming the settlement of the County of Dukes County. From these various acts this group came to have a habitation and a name, and henceforth its status was fixed. A curious legal complication occurred in connection with them shortly after the change. A suit for trespass on the island of Naushon had been entered for the October term of the County Court at Edgartown in 1695, and the defendant, Anthony Blaney by his attorney, demurred to the competency of the court to try the case. He contended that the Justices and "the Marshall who a rested him" had no authority "for such action on Ilesabeth Hands" because their commissions were for "Marthas Vineyard" only. Upon an examination of this allegation the judges were forced to "allow the defendants plea Sufficient

^In the transfer of the Manor back to Governor Dongan, the Elizabeth Islands were not in the "excepted" list and inferentially they remained a part of the Lordship, though never after mentioned in its affairs.

to barre further proceedings." New commissions were accordingly issued the next year in which the words "Dukes County" was substituted for "Marthas Vineyard," and the defect was healed.^

Annals Of The Revolution

These islands were not the scene of any conflicts great or small between the British and American forces, but their proximity to the line of water communication made them a sort of frontier post for the rebels and a rendezvous for the ships of the King's navy in search of the enemies' boats. ^ Captain John Linzee of the Falcon was an early marauder in this section, both ashore and afloat. Mrs. Elizabeth Bowdoin, wife of the owner of Naushon, sent a communication to the Provincial Committee of Safety, dated Dorchester, June 4, 1775, in which she recites the depredations of landing parties from this sloop of war under his command. Elisha Nye, who was acting as her agent at the island, sent in an account to her amounting to £14:10:0 for sheep, beef, a gun and "riding my horse and use of my well," which represented her losses from this particular raid. Mrs. Bowdoin asked the Committee to send troops to protect her husband's property, as the stock of sheep has been a source of supply to the Province as subsistence and wool.^ Captain John Grannis and a company of thirty men were immediately sent from Falmouth as a coast guard. ^

The first military movement of the provincial authorities in connection with these islands was the inclusion of them early in 1776, in the Sea-Coast Defence establishment. Major Barachiah Bassett was the officer in command of this detachment as a part of the Vineyard quota. On March 21, 1776, the town officials of Martha's Vineyard petitioned for seventyfive men to be stationed at the Elizabeth Islands with two cannons mounted at Tarpolin cove. In answer to this. Major Bassett was directed to mount four nine-pounders wherever he thought advisable for the defence of these islands, and they were probably mounted at Naushon. He informed the General Court "that it will not be in my power to afford protection which is necessary for these Islands westward of Tarpolan Cove Island & the vessels that are constantly parsing without I have at least Ten Whale Boats." These were allowed. In November of that same year, however, the Sea Coast Defence establishment was disbanded by the Provincial authorities, but Major Bassett was directed to retain Lieut. Elisha Nye, two Sergeants and twenty-one men at the Elizabeth Islands as an exception to the general order. ^ Nye was commissioned by the Council as a Captain early in 1777, and rendered excellent service as a commanding officer.^ The roster of the company which served under him during this year and part of the next follows herewith:

Muster Roll of the Company Commanded by Elisha Nye in 1777' Elisha Nye, Captain Stephen Nye, ist Lieutenant William Tobey, 2nd Lieutenant Shubael Hatch \ Howes Hallet '\

'See Vol. I, 359-61, for complaint of the Vineyard authorities on the discrimination in favor of the smaller section of the county. ^See Vol. I, 364-5. 'Mass. Arch. (Rev.), XXXVI, 157.

Attempted Annexation To Dartmouth

The political connection of these islands with Chilmark, seven miles across the Sound, would not be productive of the best administrative results, and as a natural consequence this disarticulated portion sought relief and improvement, but the means chosen was only a shift of the place but not the burden. In 1788 Holder Slocum and five others describing themselves as ' Proprietors of the four Ehzabeth Islands (so-called) known by the names of Peskanees, Nashwinnah, Cutterhunker and Pennakees," petitioned the General Court for a separation from Chilmark and annexation to Dartmouth. The reasons assigned by them for this change of jurisdiction were as follows: (i) ''There is great Disparity in the assessment of their Taxes, from which they cannot gain any Relief without passing twenty Miles over sea." (2.) - They have not been notified "when a valuation was about to be taken." (3.) - If

(to use an old Proverb) might be worse than the Disease." (4.) - That "agreeable to the Maxim Taxation and Representation ought ever to go hand in hand," they conceived themselves deprived of one of the "Essential Rights of Freeman as they have no Voice in the Election of Town Officers for said Chilmark." (5.) - They could offer "many other just and weighty Reasons" but concluded that these were sufficient.

The General Court directed that the town officers of Chilmark and Dartmouth be notified of the petition and given an opportunity to be heard thereon.^ Under date of Dec. 25, 1788, Robert Allen, town clerk of Chilmark, filed the remonstrance of that town in which the allegations of the petitioners are traversed. He stated (i.) that no petitions for relief from taxation had ever been received from the Elizabeth Islands; (2.) "that persons residing on sd Islands have at several times been persuaded by the Inhabitants of Chilmark to have an assessor chosen amongst them but they have ever Refused"; (3.) that the petitioners were " exceedingly mistaken mark authorities, though the ''many other just and weighty reasons" which remained unspoken by the petitioners might have disclosed unexcepted strength. The house of Slocum, however, was ''divided against itself," for under date of Jan. 8, 1789, Christopher and Giles Slocum of Cuttyhunk, calling themselves owners of that island, sent in a remonstrance against the proposed change of jurisdiction, and the petitioners, on Jan. 23, following, were given leave to withdraw. This ended the short campaign for separation.

Separation And Incorporation

For three-quarters of a century the idea of independent existence slumbered, and two generations of people passed out of existence. With a handful of voters and no political influence the prospects of severing relationship with Chilmark were chimerical. The growth of the summer tourist and seashore visitor revived the sentiment, and to this was added the wide personal and business relation of the late John M. Forbes, the "Master of Naushon." In 1863 this sentiment had crystallized, and the inhabitants of the several islands began anew the campaign for separation. Petitions signed by Edward Merrill, John Flanders, John W. Flanders, Benjamin

C. Church, Henry J. Allen, W. R. Veeder, Daniel Hamland, Jr., and Henry P. Macomber, were presented to the General Court, asking that the islands be incorporated by the name of "Monohansett,"* They alleged unequal taxation, appropriations, division of town offices, etc., and the usual accompaniments of loss of rights and privileges.

Notice was served on Tristram Mayhew, Samuel T. Hancock, and John Hammett, as Selectmen of Chilmark, and on Dec. 22, that year, they were directed by the town to present a remonstrance. This they did, and state in objection that the proposed town "is a portion of the small town of Chilmark owned principally by non residents and very sparsely populated ; and that all the legal voters are but sixteen in number, a part of whom are tenants and laborers, temporary residents, and they are not sensible of unequal taxation."

Notwithstanding the apparent absurdity of incorporating such a few persons into a body poHtic, yet the great influence of Mr. Forbes prevailed, and the prayer of the petitioners was granted. The name selected, however, was not that asked for, but instead Gosnold was chosen in honor of the first discoverer, and on March 17, 1864, the new town was added to the list of independent communities in the state.

Educational

With such a small, isolated and scattered population it will not be expected that either elaborate measures or complete facilities for instructing the youth have been undertaken here. The records of Chilmark give scanty and irregular information on this subject. The first entry relating to it is under date of 1754, when the town voted £,^ "toward procuring a school on the Islands belonging to sd town." The use of the plural indicates that this appropriation may have included Nomans Land as one of the "islands."^

In 1789 the sum of ;^5 was appropriated ''for the use of the inhabitants of the Islands for a school,"^ and in 1790 the sum of ;^8 was voted specifically "for the use of a school at Elizabeth Islands."^ The location of this school is not known, but it is probable that it was at Pasque or Cuttyhunk, where most of the inhabitants of the islands were centered.

In 1850 there was one school with fourteen scholars, for which $42 was expended, and in 1863 there were fifteen scholars, and an appropriation of $57.60 for their education.

When the town was incorporated, in 1864, the appropriations for school purposes were doubled at once. In 1864 it was $100; in 1867 it was $260.57; '^^ 1885 it was $439.55; in 1895 it was $501.80; and the present year (1910) it is $571.19, and yet there has been no increase of scholars in all these years. The number this year is fifteen, but the amount expended per capita has increased from $3.80 to $38, a most creditable showing.

In addition to this the town has a public library of about three hundred volumes, which is to be reckoned as an adjunct to the educational privileges of its people.

The following named persons were licensed innholders in the town of Gosnold by the County Court for the years specified : Zaccheus Lambert, 1755-64; Robert Hatch, 1755-68; Roger Merrihew, 1756-7; John Shreve, 1760; Barnabas Hinckley, 1773; Elisha Nye, 1773; John Nye, 1 784-1806. Lambert kept his inn at Tarpaulin Cove and it is probable that all the public houses above licensed were there or on the island of Naushon.

Nunn Ames Sett

This island is the eastermost of the group, and is about two miles long and half a mile wide. It was purchased of the Sachem Seayick by Thomas Mayhew, Sr., prior to 1666, as in that year he sold it to his daughter Martha, wife of Thomas Tupper of Sandwich.^ It passed into the possession of Wait Winthrop and thence into the Bowdoin family with the transfer of Naushon.'

A house was built on the island about 1769 for Paul Robinson, and he was later succeeded in the occupancy by Oliver Grinnell. Governor James Bowdoin died in this house in 1790, and after his death it remained unoccupied for seven or eight years, everything being left untouched.''

The name of this island was written in 1682 as Monahhanesuh. It is a small island of about twelve acres. It was sold by the Elder Mayhew to John Haynes in 1681, and by the latter reconveyed to Matthew Mayhew the next year.'' Richard Sarson sold it to Wait Winthrop in 1688, and it then followed the line of possession of the successive owners of Naushon.^

The modern pronunciation and spelling of this islet is Uncatena. It lies between Nonamessett and Naushon. It was probably one of the "other small islands" conveyed by Seayick to Mayhew whence it passed into the possession of the Winthrop and Bowdoin estates. A house was built on it about 1800 and was occupied by Seth Robinson.^

This island, the largest in the group, which is about eight miles long and nearly two miles wide, has had several names attached to it since the coming of the English to this locality. Its Algonquian name was Cataymuck (1654) or Kataymuck, varied as Katamiwick (1666), the translation of which, like that of Cataama on the Vineyard, is "great fishing place." It was called Tarpolin Cove Island as early as 1682, and for many years after; Elizabeth's Island (1702), Naushaun (171 7), Winthrop's Island (1727); but the title of Naushon has sur- vived each of these, and for the past hundred years has been almost exclusively used. It is derived from Nash-chawan, meaning between the tide rips or currents at each end, rather than the sides.

It was purchased from the Sachem of Monument, Seayick, April 20, 1654, by the Rev. Thomas Mayhew, Jr., the only recorded instance of a land transaction made by the young missionary during his lifetime. The deed conveys "one Hand neare Woods his hole Called by the Indians Cataymuck."^ After his death the title does not appear to have been vested in his children, as on Aug. 7, 1668, the Sachem Seayick executed an instrument in which he validates certain prior grants in which he has "by severall deedes gyven & conveighed unto Thomas Mayhew of Martin's Vineyard the island called Kataymuck * * * * -vvith severall other islands named in the deedes." These earlier conveyances are not of record, but before this confirmation, on Sept. 27, 1666, the Governor had disposed of one -quarter of Cataymuck to Peter Oliver of Boston. This deed gives a few additional particulars and the description of the part conveyed is liere quoted:^

One full quarter part of the greater Island of Elizabeth Island, beginning at the Western end Called by the Indians Katamiwick, being about eight miles long, l}'ing Northward from Martynes Vineyard & Southv/ard from Monument Bay, being brought & purchased by us of Quajaccset Sachem of Monument & also of Quaquaquijott a great Sachime upon the Maine near Pacannakicke.'

In 1 67 1 Governor Lovelace recognized the equity of Matthew Mayhew in the fee of the island as first purchased by Thomas Mayhew, Jr., and "recommended to him (i. e.. Governor Mayhew) to give some compensation to the Grand Childe for his consent to his Fathers Right. "^ On Jan. 12, 1 68 1, the Governor, shortly before his death, sold the remaining three-quarters of the island, "being part of the manor of Tisbury," to John Haynes, merchant, late of Boston, and provided in the deed that the place was "to be hereafter called

'The original deed is in the collection of the Pilgrim Society at their hall in Plymouth, and one of the witnesses was young Thomas Paine. It is not recorded in our county records.

^This deed is also in Pilgrim Hall, but is recorded in our registry, Vol. I, folio 328. The consideration was a debt liquidated by Governor Mayhew to Thomas Daggett.

Major-General Wait Winthrop First Master Of Naushon

Sileby."^ The significance of this is not apparent from such investigations as the author has been able to make. Sileby is a parish in Leicestershire, England, but it has no known connection with our Mayhew family, a connection which readily suggests itself because of the predilection of the Governor in bestowing here the names of places with which he was earlier associated in England. The Vicar of Sileby informs the author that the name of Mayhew has not been found in his parish registers, and it can only be surmised that it may be the home of some one connected with the Governor by marriage, possibly his first or second wife's. The new name, however, did not have any "hereafter" and does not appear in subsequent records after the Governor's death.

Haynes did not retain his interest long as the next year he reconveyed it to Matthew Mayhew.- The latter sold this for ;^46o in 1682 to Wait Winthrop of Boston.^

The Winthrop Estate

When this beautiful island passed into the possession of Major General Wait Still Winthrop it became the suburban estate of a man of wealth and culture who made it his playground and proceeded to develop it as such. "It may be worth something in time," wrote Winthrop to his brother, Governor Fitz John, when he announced the acquisition of the property. He began the improvement of it at once, procured tenants to develop and cultivate the land, while he gathered here and there game and edible birds and wild animals to stock the place. As early as 1698 his correspondence shows the installation of a buck and doe moose and wild turkeys. Here the younger Wait Winthrop spent his vacations and amused himself with studies of the aboriginal lore of the islands. Being on the great highway of coastwise commerce it was a frequent port of call for ships to replenish their water barrels at Tarpaulin cove. "Here arrived an English ship from Nevis," wrote young Wait, in 1702, "the master whereof sent my Father a dozen and half of oranges." It is probable that this cove or the "French Wate.-^^g Place" was the location of the first house on the island. Captain Kidd, the pirate, made harbor here on his last voyage before his arrest. Winthrop writes, under date of July 12, 1699: "Captain Kidd and his crew

Tarpolin with the man there." In 1702 the house "on the east End of Elizabeths Island was raised," as we read in the pages of young Wait's diary, and from these brief glimpses of happenings there we may obtain some knowledge of the life at Naushon under its first gentleman owner.

The western quarter of Naushon, sold to Peter Oliver, became the subject of considerable litigation, though the absence of records obscures the exact conditions. Nathaniel Oliver, son of Peter, in 1695, began suit against Anthony Blaney, ''of Elizabeth Hand for entering into and withholding the possession of one full quarter part" of this island, "beginning at the westcrmost end."^ Oliver was non-suited on a technicality, as related elsewhere, and nothing further is heard of the case. In October, 1702, in association with James and Daniel Oliver and Sarah Noyes, he again entered suit for the possession of this quarter section, this time against Caleb Ray and Joseph Fuller, "in that they refuse to deliver to him" this tract of land. As there are no records to show what claims Ray or Fuller had to this particular property it can only be surmised that it came into their possession by some purchase or purchases which gave them good title. ^ Through the laxity of jurisdiction over these islands before 1700 the documents covering these transactions may have been recorded at Barnstable, Newport or Plymouth.

The Bowdoin Family

From this time on the tenure and occupation of the island is clear. After the death of Wait Winthrop, Nov. 7, 171 7, his son John and daughter Ann Lechmere, on Jan. 11, 171 7, sold it to James Bowdoin of Boston for ;^i,5oo, although it had been inventoried at ;^2,ooo, including the stock. ^ By will, dated September, 1713, not executed, he bequeathed to his only daughter Ann, wife of Thomas Lechmere of London, "all my island called by the Indians Katamick otherwise called and known by the name of Elizabeth Island alias Tarpolin

'Dukes Court Records. Anthony Blaney was a tenant of Wait Winthrop as early as 1684, and Winthrop's correspondence indicates that he had much difficulty in collecting the rental (5 Mass. Hist. Coll., VHI, passim).

contingent upon the failure of his son John to pay ;£2,ooo to his sister Ann Lechmere within twenty years, and if done it was to become his. There were legal complications between the heirs and Bowdoin extending over many years, and it was not until 1744 that the new family acquired an undisputed title to their property.^ Since its acquisition by the Bowdoins, to the present day practically, it has been a country gentleman's demesne, and there is attached to it all the accompaniments of the life of the squire and his tenants from generation to generation. The Bowdoin family were the "Masters of Naushon" for one hundred and twenty-five years, continuing and maintaining the traditional standard of generous living first set by Major General Winthrop. The sons of the first Bowdoin, James and William, stocked it with deer that they might have a park after the manner of the nobility of England, and in 1766 they procured the passage of a law protecting these animals from destruction by the poachers. Descendants of these deer still roam the island, and its subsequent owners have stocked it with English and Scotch game birds and varieties of our native prairie fowl.

Lieutenant Governor James Bowdoin, by his will dated March 23, 1789, proven Nov. 16, 1790, bequeathed this property "to my dear son James Bowdoin, the whole of my share, viz: one half of the Islands Catamock or Naushon, Nanemasset and Ankatarmy (Uncatena)," and this third James Bowdoin, by marriage with his cousin Sarah, an only daughter of his uncle, William Bowdoin, acquired the other half. The new owner enjoyed his inheritance for about twenty years, and by will dated June 4, 181 1, bequeathed it to his nephew James, the son of Sir John and Lady Tempe (nee Bowdoin), upon condition of his assuming the name of- Bowdoin, his mother's family.^ In default of heirs the property was devised to James Bowdoin Winthrop, and under like default to Bowdoin College as residuary legatee. James Temple Bowdoin died Oct. 31, 1842, and the Trustees of Bowdoin College entered suit for the property, claiming possession to the exclusion of young James Temple Bowdoin, in whom the property was entailed.

of the uncle, and sundry nice points of law. Eminent counsel was employed on both sides, including Daniel Webster and Rufus Choate, but before a trial was had a compromise was agreed upon by the parties, who agreed to the sale of Naushon with all the stock and other personal property thereon to William W. Swain of New Bedford and John M. Forbes of Milton for the sum of $20,000, of which Temple received seven and the college three-tenths/

The Forbes Family

The joint ownership of Swain and Forbes lasted thirteen years, during which time the islands were used for sheep raising and general agricultural purposes in addition to its development as a country estate. Swain sold his interest to Forbes Nov. 7, 1856, and ever since that date it has been in the possession of the family, being inherited by J. Malcolm Forbes, son of John M., and in turn by his heirs, a period of sixty-seven years. ^ In the history of the island it has been the property of but three families; Winthrop, 48 years; Bowdoin, 115 years; and Forbes, 67 years, covering a total of 228 years as a gentleman's suburban estate.

The Forbes family, as the last "Masters of Naushon," has emulated successfully its predecessors in the high ideals of the establishment created by the Winthrops and the Bowdoins, and it bids fair to pass on under their tenure with this unique reputation untainted by commercial exploitation.

This small island, lying on the north side of Naushon, contains about four acres. It was acquired by the Elder Mayhew of the Sachem of Monument, and sold in 1682 to Matthew Mayhew.^ The latter left it to his son Matthew and of him it was purchased, in 1714, by Benjamin Weeks of Falmouth.^

Pesketennees (1670), Passhikhanneset (1696) Pashketaneset (1713), Pesketineasset (1775), and Pesk (1790). It is on the west end of Naushon separated by Robinson's Hole, being in dimension about two miles long by one wide, and containing about eight hundred acres. This island has a tidal inlet about half a mile long and its name in Algonquian denotes this: Pash-kehtan-es-et, ''where the sea breaks through or divides."

The first owner was Thomas Mayhew, who sold it in 1670 to Daniel Wilcox of Dartmouth.^ The latter sold it, in 1696, in two equal parts, to Abraham and John Tucker,^ and it was generally called Tucker's island while in their possession.

Here we found a club house with appointments calculated to render not only the members of the club and their famihes comfortable, but all the guests invited by them. The island includes more than a thousand acres which the club has divided into two farms, erected commodious buildings, including club house, ice house, stabhng &c. The club has also vegetable and flower gardens, sail boats and row boats, and the river which sets a mile into the island is stocked with a hundred thousand menhaden as bait for the use of the club.^

The Algonquian name for the historic isle, as given above, is a compound of Pohqu-etahun-kunnoh, which means an open, cleared (broken up) field, which had been cultivated, a planting field. It may have been bestowed in consequence of the brief cultivation undertaken by Gosnold as related by his journalist, or to similar work done by the natives. It is now abbreviated by the elision of the first syllable and the slurring of the last two, leaving Cutohhunk or Cuttyhunk as now written. Earlier forms of spelling are Catehank (1690) and Cuddahunka (1791).

This island is irregular in shape, enclosing a large fresh water pond with an islet therein, a peculiar conformation not found in any other like situation hereabouts. The land comprises about five hundred acres, some of it very fertile.

'Dukes Deeds, I, 253; Comp. N. Y. Council Minutes, III, 68. ^Ibid., I, 127, 129. They were sons of Henry Tucker of Dartmouth ^From "Fishing in American Waters."

Gosnold's island. The lofty promontory running out from the north end was called Cappiquat. The passage between Cuttyhunk and Nashawena bears the name of Canapitset.

Hither, in 1602, came Bartholomew Gosnold, as already described in detail, seeking a suitable place to begin the foundation of a colony under the patronage of the Virgin Queen.

This little island they chose for their abode, and on this spot Gosnold began the foundation of the first settlement of Englishmen in this region. The description of the place is unmistakable in its accuracy:

On the Northwest side of this island, neere to the sea side, is a standing Lake of fresh water, almost three Enghsh miles in Compasse, in the middest whereof stands a plot of woodie ground, an acre in quantitie or not above: this lake is full of small Tortoises and exceedingly frequented with all plot of ground in the midst of the Lake above mentioned where we built an house and covered it with sedge, which grew about this lake in great abundance; in building whereof we spent three weeks and more.'

Gosnold'S Island Cuttyhunk

and tall, beech, elm, holly, walnut trees in abundance, hazlenut trees, cherry trees, sassafras trees, great plenty all over the island, a tree of high price and profit; also divers other fruit

^On it was erected, in 1903, through the efforts of a number of patriotic men living in this section, a stone tower as a memorial of the first discovery and settlement of Englishmen on our soil.

trees." This seems almost a fairy tale in the light of present day condition. The "stately trees" either existed mostly in his imagination for colonizing purposes, or else they have melted before the devastating axes of former generations. Fifty years ago not a tree was growing on the island and not even a decayed or decaying stump could be seen above the surface. Even now but a few small shade trees are to be seen, the survivors of many planted, struggling for existence through the cold blasts of winter, and the constant wear and tear of the winds from the ocean.

The voyagers worked on their fort and storehouse, as if they intended to remain, and presumably finished both. While here they visited the mainland in the direction of Dartmouth, and went possibly as far as New Bedford. In all this time their intercourse with the natives was satisfactory, agreeable and profitable, and nothing is recorded to explain their brief stay. In less than a month the company had decided to abandon the settlement and return to England. The journalist thus states the alleged reasons for this sudden change :

But after our barke had taken in much Sassafras, Cedar, Furres, Skins and other commodities as were thought convenient, some of our company that had promised Captain Gosnold to stay, having nothing but a saving [i. e., money making] voyage in their minds, made our company of inhabitants (which was small enough before) much smaller, so as Captain Gosnold, seeing his whole strength to consist of but twelve men, and they but meanly provided, determined to return for England, leaving this island (which he called Elizabeth's Island) with as many true sorrowful eies as w^ere before desirous to see it.

Purchase And Settlement

Cuttyhunk remained an uninhabited island after its abandonment by Gosnold for an indefinite period. It came into the possession of Thomas Mayhew, probably by purchase from the Indian Sachem of this region, and in 1668 he sold it to Philip Smith, Peleg Sanford and Thomas Ward, all of Newport, R. I.^ Sanford acquired the rights of the others and in 1688 disposed of one-half of it to Ralph Earle of Dartmouth.^ Earle sold this the same year to his son Ralph

Earle, Jr., who became as far as can be determined the first permanent settler.^ In 1693 Ralph, Junior, sold a quarter of the island to his brother, William,^ and by successive purchases of the holdings of these two brothers and Peleg Sanford's remaining half, all in 1693, Peleg Slocum of Dartmouth became the sole owner. ^ The Slocum family continued to reside here for the next century.

Visitations By Historians, 1 797, 1817 And 1903

The fame of this island because of its first discovery and occupancy by Gosnold has been the occasion for a number of pilgrimages hither by persons interested in the history and antiquities of New England. The first of record is that made by the Rev. Jeremy Belknap, one of our earliest historians, whew in 1797 came to Cuttyhunk for the particular purpose of identifying the locality where Gosnold built his fort and storehouse. He published his findings of which the following is an abstract:

To this spot I went on the 20th day of June, 1797 in company with several gentlemen (foot-note, Capt. Tallman of New York, John Spooner, Mr. Allen, pilot, of New Bedford) whose curiosity and obliging kindness induced them to accompany me. The protecting hand of Nature has reserved this favorite spot to herself. Its fertility and its productions are exactly the same as in Gosnold's time, except the wood of which there is none. Every species of what he calls 'rubbish' with strawberries, peas, tansy, and other fruits and herbs appear in rich abundance unmolested by any animal but aquatic birds. We had the supreme satisfaction to find the cellar of Gosnold's store-house: the stones of which were evidently taken from the neighboring beach: the rocks of the islet being less moveable and lying in ledges. The whole island of Cuttyhunk has been for years stripped of its wood, but I was informed by Mr. Greenhill, an old resident farmer, that the trees which formerly grew on it were such as are described in Gosnold's Journal. The soil is very fine garden mould from the bottom of the vallies to the top of the hills and aflfords rich pasture.*

In 181 7 another party composed of members of the Massachusetts Historical Society made a pilgrimage to examine the site of the Gosnold settlement. Their report states: cedar stood near the shore, and we brought home a piece of it as a remembrance of our expedition. On the Northern bank of the islet, about ten yards from the water, we found a small excavation overgrown with bushes and grass, on one side of which were three large stones in a row at the distance of three feet from each other, having under them other stones of the same size l}ing in the same direction. Between these were smaller stones, which appeared by their form and smoothness to have been taken from the beach. In another excavation tv^enty yards south of the former, near the centre and highest part of the islet were similar stones, but very few in number and not disposed in any apparent order. On digging in other parts of the islet we found more of the same kind. We conjectured that the first excavation was all that remained of Gosnold's cellar and the latter a part of the trench dug for the purpose of forming the fort.*

In the early part of this century these remains, as described, were to be seen, but unfortunately since then the ground of the httle island has been ploughed up and cultivated, so that scarcely a vestige remains of Gosnold's work of three centuries ago. Careful excavation might restore it.

The tercentenary of Gosnold's settlement and occupation of this island, occurring in 1902, a number of gentlemen interested in historical research, formed an association to erect a memorial of the event. This took definite form in the shape of a design for a stone tower to be placed on Gosnold's island in the pond, and it was completed and dedicated with appropriate ceremonies in August, 1903. It is a round tower built of rough stone, with circular steps inside to the look-out deck at the top, and it makes a commanding landmark for mariners approaching the Vineyard sound from the west.

This island is three miles long and a mile wide. It was originally bought, in 1674, by Peleg Sanford, Philip Smith and Thomas Ward, the latter two owning the eastern half.^ By various purchases of the heirs of these first proprietors, about 1743, it came into the possession of Holder Slocum and remained in the tenure and occupation of his descendants for the next hundred years. ^

The earliest form of this name is Puanakesset (1670), and it is also written Penemakeeset (1696), varied with Penekesset, Penuasset (1731), and a modern form is Pune (1870).

The island contains about forty acres, and was bought of the Mayhews, in 1670 by Daniel Wilcox, who sold it to Peleg Slocum and Abraham Tucker.* It gradually became the possession of Holder Slocum and his heirs. In 1873 the late Prof. Louis Agassiz appealed to the public and the General Court for the funds to establish a summer school of comparative zoology, and the then owner of this island, Mr. John Anderson of New York, a wealthy tobacco merchant, offered him the use of Penekese and a fund of $50,000, as an endowment for the school. The offer was accepted, work on the buildings was begun, and when complete it was called the Anderson School of Natural History. It was in operation for two summers when a fire destroyed it, and the school was never rebuilt.^ In 1907 the state acquired the island, and has erected thereon an establishment for the isolation and treatment of patients afflicted with leprosy.

Egg Or Gull Island

This very small island, just east of Penekese, was first in the possession of Ralph Earle, Sr., of Dartmouth, and in 1693 he transferred it to William Ingraham, a shipwright of Swansea w^ho sold it in 1734 to Holder Slocum, and it became an inheritance in this family during the following century.^

Lighthouse Establishment : - One of the earliest lighthouses on this coast was erected on Naushon at Tarpaulin cove. It was built in 1759 by Zaccheus Lambert, a tavern keeper resident there, "at his own Cost & Charges .... save that the People of Nantucket have found him Oyle out of their meer Courtesy." It was established to the satisfaction of the General Court in 1762 that it had "been a means of Saving many Vessels from being lost & found to be of great advantage to Navigation," and this enterprising citizen was granted a sum out of the Province treasury for his expenses.* Ever since that time a light has been maintained there, but it was not till 181 6 that the general government assumed control and erected the present building.

^" Origin and Progress of the Anderson School of Natural History at Penekese Island," 1874, with illustrations. The trustees were Louis Agassiz, Thomas G. Carey, Alexander Agassiz, Martin Brimmer and Theodore Lyman.

Six years later the lighthouse on Cuttyhunk was built by the government (1822), and with its mate at Gay Head forms the beacons to the mariners entering Vineyard Sound from the west.

Life Saving Service. - The reefs that make off from the western extremity of the Elizabeth Islands, with the "Sow and Pigs" as a first danger, have made this a disastrous point for ships in bad weather. Many a vessel has gone to destruction hereabouts. This caused the demand for the establishment of a station of the Life Saving Service of the United States, and on Feb. 14, 1890, it was placed in commission, bearing the name Cuttyhunk, on which island it is located.

Present Condition Of Town

The town of Gosnold is nearly fifty years old, and in that time has made gratifying material progress. Its first appropriation of $400 for town expenses, in 1864, looks small in comparison with the money raised this year (1909). In 1869 the taxes had more than doubled, $872.92, while in 1883 they had risen to $1,445.81. In 1890 they raised $1,678.30, and ten years later $1,850.06, with a little larger balance to their credit each year. The present year (1909) the totals are: receipts, $2,994.35; expenditures, $2,201.15; ^ seven-fold increase which is an indication of the thrift and prosperity of this little island settlement.