Okanogan County, Washington - Chapter 5: Cities and Towns, 1904
From Illustrated History of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan Counties, State of Washington, published 1904. 8,806 words, reproduced complete and unedited. Source changes inside the text are labelled in place.
The text
8,806 wordsMachine-read from scans of Illustrated History of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan Counties, State of Washington, published 1904. Nothing has been corrected: fixing what looks like a misspelled name is how an invented one gets published. Source changes are marked where they occur.
Conconully, the county seat of Okanogan county, is situated on Conconully creek, a branch of the Salmon river, which it joins a short distance south of the town. Conconully is about one hundred miles north of Wenatchee, Chelan county. It is beautifully located in the midst of one of the most fertile agricultural and richest mining districts in the county. Millions of feet of timber grow throughout the surotinding hills, sufficient to supply the demands of many generations to come. The capital of Okanogan county lies at the foot of Conconully lake, a fine sheet of water concerning which there are many Indian traditions, mysterious and supernatural.
spring of 1888 the town was known as Salmon City. In Marcli, 1888, a mass meeting was lield for the purpose of rechristening the town, and at this convention it was decided to call it "Conconully," an euphonious name of Indian lineage. In the dialect of the natives the word "Conconully" means "evil spirit," and the natives had applied it to the lake near this town. It was asserted by them that lake was inhabited by a huge and ferocious monster which was the author of a host of ills and a variety of material and spiritual troubles. Certain white men have gone so far as to corroborate this story by the assertion that they have seen it rear its hideous head atove the placid waters of Conconully lake, and shake a long, heavy, seagreen mane in a threatening manner. Still, sea captains and others have witnessed antics of sea serpents, and far too many of them have seen a miscellaneous variety of varied hued snakes ashore.
Returning to the practical side of the Conc mullly lake question, it has been seriously considered by the United States government as a reservoir site in which to conserve the waters of the creeks and mountain streams during the early spring freshets for the purpose of irrigating the large adjacent territory which tthe government contemplates putting under the ditch at an early period. However, for agricultural purposes the precipitation is sufficient to meet all present requirements. The rainfall in 1900 was 15.68 inches; in 1901 12.61 inches, and during the fiscal year past it reached 19.60 inches. During these years the mean temperature was 46.66, 44.95 and 44.18 respectively. The altitude of Conconully is 2.240 feeet above sea level.
The tow'U of Conconully came into existence in 1886. The discovery of auriferous deposits in that part of Stevens, whicli a short time afterward became Okanogan county, in 1866, and the rush of prospectors to the new district contributed to the establisliment of many new towns and camps, and Conconully, or Salmon City, was the first one of them in the county. In its immediate vicinity the country was known far and wide as the " rich Salmon River district."' In the spring of 1886 came the first prospectors, and they pitched their tents on the site of the present Conconully. These were George Forester and a man named Pierce, who located the Homestake and Tough Nut claims; Billy McDaniels. who staked out the Salmon river properties; Jimmy R'lbertson, Dick Malone and George Gubser, who located the John Arthur, Washington and Daisy claims; Charles Holmes, who annexed the Columbia; "Tenas George" Runnels, who took up the Lady of the Lake, and Henry Lawrence who located the Lone Star and Golden Crown. Daniel Boone also prospected in this vicinity, but did not successfully locate any properties. Most of these claims were located in May, 1886. During the summer the prospectors lived in tents where now stands Conconully, passing a large portion of their time prospecting in the hills.
In October, when the nights grew colder, they erected cabins to replace the tents and went into winter quarters. The following spring more people came to the camp, and a store was opened by a man named Boardman. He built a cabin and freighted in a small stock of goods. The succeeding fall the second store was established by the Buckingham toys. In the spring of 1888 there was an immense rush to the new camp. The town quickly gained a population of 500 people. New business enterprises made their appearance and cabins dotted the valleys and hillsides. In July, 1888, the Okanogan Outlook was established, and the camp had a lively newspaper to chronicle its varied passing events. After repeated unsuccessful efforts, in August, 1888. the citizens succeeded in securing a postoffice. I. W. Spence, who at that period was proprietor of a store, became postmaster.
years. It continued to increase in population and in the number of its business enterprises. Charles Hermann, who came here in 1887, is one of the earliest settlers in the community. The excellent business facilities then offered by the place attracted his attention, as well as the picturesque and healthful location, protected from the cold winter winds by the surrounding hills with their rich grazing and agricultural lands. Mr. Hermann began in the mercantile business in a small way, and has amassed a fortune, including store, bank stock, cattle, and mining and milling interests.
The first religious services held in Conconully were on Sunday, March 16, 1890, at the school house. They were conducted by the Rev. Mr. Fate. At the close of the meeting a Sabbath school was organized, and the following officers elected : Superintendent, F. W. Moore; assistant superintendent, William Shufelt : treasurer, Miss Jessie Elliott ; secretary, Charles Hermann; librarian, Mrs. Wentworth ; chorist, Mrs. William Shufelt. Rev. A. W. Trine is at present pastor of the Methodist church.
The building' season commencing in the spring of 1891 was unusually active in Conconully. Two steam saw mills began work with a large number of orders to fill for lumber. A number of residences and business houses were constructed and many others projected to be erected so soon as lumber could be secured from the mills. Among the Conconully improvements on foot in April, 1891, were the following : Tullock & McCaskle completed an 18x30 one-story building on the corner of Main and Galena streets, to be used as a drug store. This building was well arranged, substantial and complete. The occupants moved into their new quarters ]May i. L. S. Baldwin erected a residence building which for size and beauty of design surpassed, at that period, anything of the kind in Okanogan county. It was a two-story edifice, cottage style, containing six rooms, three closets and a pantry. The interior of the building was finished throughout with the best materials afforded by the country. An octagon-shaped dome and a dormer window added greatly to the attractiveness of the outside elevations of the building.
The same spring the Hotel Elliott was remodeled and rearranged in a most convenient manner. The main building was extended to comprise 40x70 feet. When completed it was the largest building in Conconully. The building formerly occupied by the county officers, owned by H. Biegle, was fitted up for a billiard room, being "extended back twenty feet and connected with the saloon by an archway. The lower portion was occupied by billiard tables; the upper story was fitted up for card roooms. S. S. Collins and C. H. Ballard erected a 34X 50 foot building on Maude avenue, between Silver and LaUna streets, which was rented for business purposes. There were many other smaller and less pretentious structures erected this spring in various portions of the town site. We have dwelt rather particularly upon the subject of building improvements in Conconully, and for this reason : The following summer, 1892, the most of them were swept away by a terrrible conflagration that practically '.viped out the town of Conconully. It is only by written description that an idea of the oldtime Conconully may be gained, for with the fire went up in its flames all photographic representations of the town as it was. And. although from its ruins sprang up a new village, a succeeding disastrous flood swept down the valley of Conconully creek, and again the town was laid in ruins. From these serious casualties the town has not yet recovered. The "hard times" of 1893 came upon the residents as upon the rest of the country, and the almost utter cessation of the mining industry which followed worked almost irreparable injury to the largest and prettiest town in Okanogon county.
nounced purpose of wliich was to organize a militia company. It was not largely attended and there were only fourteeen applicants for enlistment. A committee was appointed to solicit members. By reference to Chapter II of Okanogan county, it will be seen that the threatened Indian trouble growing out of the Cole murder and subsequent lynching of young Stephen, had imbued the community with military ardor. One hundred and eighty stand of arms and 3.000 rounds of ammunition had been supplied by the state, and were then in the hands of the county comm'issioners. Under date of August 6, 1891, the following General Order No. 7 was issued from general headquarters of the National Guard of Washington, at Olympia:
The military board having considered the application of F. M. Baiini and his associates at Conconully, Okanogan county, and that of Henry S. Haslett and his associates, at Tekoa, Whitman coimty, seeking admission into the National Guard of Washington as a volunteer company, and recommending that said petitions be granted; it is hereby ordered that the said F. M. Baum and his associates at Conconully and the said Henry S. Haslett and his associates at Tekoa. be and are hereby admiteed as volunteer companies into the National Guard of Washington, and shall be attached to the Second Infantry regiment and designated as follows :
Company at Conconully as I Company, and the company at Tekoa as K Company. General A. P. Curry will inspect and muster the company at Conconully; Lieutenant J. W. Stearns, A. D. C, is hereby ordered to inspect and muster the company at Tekoa ; reporting their proceedings thereunder at the earliest day practicable.
L. S. Baldwin was chosen captain, but it does not appear from any records obtainable that Company I was ever successful in continuing for long an organization. The company seems to have drifted along into the shadows of complete oblivion.
And what was Conconully before the fire? The place was visited in June, 1892, by the prominent mining man, J. M. Hagerty, who wrote as follows :
"Conconully is the home of Lieutenant Governor Laughton and is one of the pleasantest spots in the mountains. It is di^'erent from most mining camps, as here miners and prospectors have determined to make their homes and have brought the gentle and refining influence of women and home to the camp, which has had the effect of doing away with all lawlessness. No man can conceive a prettier place. Here the valley of Salmon creeek widens out nearly a mile in extent. To the west Mineral Hill rises gradually until the peaks are lost in the clouds; to the north and south the mountains rise abruptly, but are covered with timber which is of an evergreen verdure, while to the east lies Conconully lake, a beautiful sheet of water 1,500 feet wide and three miles long, with gently sloping banks on either side."
Between the hours of 12 and i o'clock on the morning of August 30, 1892, the fire started which all but wiped the town of Conconully from the map. The cause of this conflagration will never be definitely known. It originated in the new store building which had recently been erected by Wheeler Brothers, of Bridgeport, for Robert and James Hunter, at the north end of Main street. Hunter Brothers were engaged in the general merchandise business and the day previous to the fire had begun moving into their new home.
The cr}^ of fire quickly aroused the sleeping inhabitants and soon the whole town was out to assist in fighting the flames. Conconully was without fire protection of any description and very little could be done to stay the progress of the conflagration, although strong and willing hands worked to tear down buildings and check the course of the devastation. Nearly every night in the summer time a cool breeze springs up and sweeps down the canyon in which the town is located, from the north. This night there was a stiff wind blowing, and from the start it was seen that the town was doomed.
From Hunter Brothers' store the flames spread across the street to the large two-story store building of Moore. Ish & Co.. and this, the finest building in town, was soon in flames.
This was where Charles Hermann's store now stands. In 1892 the business part of Conconully consisted of two sohd blocks of business houses, extending to the south from where the fire started. When morning dawned these two blocks were in ashes, and not a single business house remained in the town. Only one buijding outside of these on the main street was burned. This was Harry Harris' blacksmith shop just across the creek.
The loss occasioned by this fire was in the neighborhood of $100,000. Some of the principal losers were Hunter Brothers, general store; Moore, Ish & Company, general store and bank; John Proebstel, feed store; Mrs. Shull, hotel ; Hiram Beigle, saloon ; John Mors, hotel; George Hardenberg, hotel building; Mrs. S. W. Elliott, hotel furniture; Samuel Collins & Company, saloon and hall ; W. B. Wakefield, store; Charles Hermann, store; C. F. Hane, hardware store; Harry Harris, blacksmith shop; H. W. Thompson, Outlook printing office; Thomas Dixon, livery stable. Several residences were also destroyed.
The following morning, every store having burned, the inhabitants were without food except such as remained in private houses. The neighboring towns, so soon as they learned of the great disaster, came to the aid of the stricken people. Within a few hours the town of Ruby had collected $600 and Loomis also raised a large purse. Food and supplies were also furnished, and in a short time every one was made as comfortable as possible.
At the time of this fire Conconully had 500 or 600 inhabitants. The town was well built and the stores and buildings were substantial ones. Following the fire the town was partially rebuilt, but the quality of the structures was not nearly so good as was that of those laid waste by the flames.
The disaster of August 30th was snon followed by a depreciation of silver and consequent inactivity in mining circles. Without entering upon a discussion of the currency question or the alleged "Crime of 1873," it is useless to deny that the depression of 1893 fell heavily upon the population of Okanogan county, so largely dependent on the mining industry. It is the province of history to record facts, and all the facts bear out our assertion. The camp of Conconully had sprung into existence on the strength of rich silver mines in its vicinity; its early history is that of a lively town and the center of great business activity. Says the Palmer Mountain Prospector: "With the depreciation of silver the camp sustained a backset; a fire destroyed much of the business part of the town and the flood cleaning up all the fire had left, the place never recovered from the three-fold shock."
Forty-two buildings were destroyed by the flood of May 27, 1894. This is a date that will never be forgotten by the old residents of the country in the vicinity of Conconully. On that day the town was almost completely laid waste. Every one who witnessed the catastrophe will vividly remember the terrible experience of a few minutes of rushing water that transformed a spot of beauty into a dreary waste. Floods perform their work of destruction much more rapidly than flames.
The small stream coursing through the town in a southerly direction has its source high up in the midst of a chain of mountains that divides the Methow from the Okanogan valley. It flows with rapid current down a rocky, narrow canyon, or succession of canyons most of the way, joining the Salmon river south of town. At times the canyon widens from a quarter to half a mile. In these spots are cozy homes and fruitful orchards and farms. At the point where is built the business portion of Conconully is a valley, probably a mile wide, a basin, but to the north this valley rapidly closes until the course of the creek is only a few yards in width, and it also .narrows to the south. To the east is a long, deep lake, the water almost level with the land to the west, while a hog-back to the west makes the
For several weeks the weather had been dry and pleasant. May 26 it began raining heavily. Between the rains and melting snow the creek swelled to a raging torrent. Below town the Hat was covered with a foot or two of water. With the exception of the Cheetham household the few residing in that locality had wisely sought safer and dryer quarters. Sunday, May 2^, William Shufeldt was on horseback in front of the Hotel Elliott. He had just returned from the Cheetham residence where he had endeavored to induce the family to remove to a place of safety, but unsuccessfully.
As Mr. Shufeldt cast his eyes up the creek he witnessed a sight calculated to appall the stoutest heart. A mountain of water nearly seventy-five feet high was rushing down on the devoted town of Conconully. It was an avalanche of water, trees, rocks and debris, an overwhelming, irresistible mass of moving matter.. The breast of this oncoming besom of destruction was a body of trees, rocks and underbrush. Fragments of rocks, weighing hundreds of pounds were borne along as feathers on the wind. Giant forest monarchs were wrenched up by the roots, or snapped off like pipe stems, and tossed about like reeds. End over end were these trees whirling, while the mad waters curled and dashed even over the very top of this huge moving dam.
It was the wild whirl of waters set free by the cloud-burst so dreaded in mountain countries. Along the source of this stream a surcharged cloud had encountered an obstacle and suddenly dropped down this deluge. Wherever it struck the mountain sides were swept clean of soil and trees. The horrible significance of this danger was immediately realized by Mr. Shufeldt. He gave the alarm, and the cry was taken up by the people, who immediately rushed to the high ground. The strong assisted the weak, and none had time to save more than was upon his or her back. The impediment of the load carried by the water held it back somewhat, but the blow was swift enough. As the canyon widens at the townsite the waters spread shallower. But even at the point where stood the business portion of the town the wall of water was over twelve feet in height. In a few brief moments - not minutes - uni\'ersal havoc was wrought. The spot was changed by this cataclysm as completely as though rocked into ruins by an earthquake. Residences went down with the sweep of water as though they were so many card houses. For several feet the bed of the creek was washed to bedrock as if swept with a broom. Rocks, trees, gravel and sand were spread upon the flat where the business part of the town had stood. And this flat was gashed and torn and gullied ; entire trees were strewn in fantastic disorder about the town, or where had once been a town. The course of the creek was changed. It now ran under the Hotel Elliott. This edifice withstood the blow but was sadly deformed. To the height of the second story logs and rubbish were piled against the building. The store of Moore, Ish & Company was nearly torn to pieces ; the stone cellar was carried away; the heavy iron safe has never been found. The side of Beigle's saloon was crushed in. The large mirror behind the bar was forced up against the ceiling. Strange to say, although the room was full of rocks and logs this glass was uninjured. Frank Baum's neat little residence was carried off bodily and deposited in the lake several hundred yards distant. Houses were carried a long ways without suft'ering material damage.
Below Conconully was one of the finest farms and orchards in the county. It was buried from sight. Today it is only a barren stretch of sand and gravel. Evidence of the force of the torrent was to be seen in mammoth trees, hundreds of which came down with the flood. Many narrow escapes were reported, and one death. Mrs. Amelia Keith, an old lady, followed the family to the gate, but disregarding protestations, returned to the house for her spectacles. While attempting to get back, and within a dozen feet of safety, the wild waters caught her. It was impossible to go to her rescue; the victim was dashed to death before the eyes of horrified spectators. The body was not discovered for several days, and only then through the instincts of a dog. Mr. Sincock awoke to find himself mixed up in a sea of logs and water. He was asleep in a cabin below town. Carried on the swirling tide a long distance he escaped with only -a sprained ankle. Mr. Spence lived far up the creek and had ample time in which to reach a place of safety. But he became dazed. Instead of running to a bank only a few yards away he went down the street in front of the oncoming flood. Caught in the rush of waters he was carried half a mile and left in Conconully lake. An hour afterward he was rescued while clinging to a log.
Fortunate it was that the calamity did not fall upon the community during the night time. Had this flood enveloped the place in the shadows of darkness, when the first knowledge of its coming would have been the blow itself, almost the entire population would have been drowned; the Hepner disaster in Oregon would have been anticipated. Nothing was saved where the flood had full sway; a majority of the residents escaped with their clothes only. Aid from the surrounding country was extended to the sufferers; the neighboring towns responded liberally. In this calamity there was one heroic act of self-sacrificing valor shared by two persons. On seeing the rapid approach of the flood Mr. Shufeldt put spurs to his horse and swiftly rode back toward the Cheetham family whom he had so recently urged to seek a place of safety. The animal he rode became mired and Mr. Shufeldt proceeded on foot. Gaining the house in a few words he explained the impending danger.
This time the family acted on his advice and waded through the mud to higher ground. In the house was a helpless old lady, Mrs. Davis. Cheetham carried her to the door, but found himself unable to proceed further with his burden. Mr. Shufeldt took the lady on his back and started for high ground. In this enterprise he was assisted by Dr. C. P. House, and the two men staggered on together. The mud and water were deep. The nearly exhausted men reached the goal, but none too soon. The flood was not ten feet away when they gained the spot.
The property loss by this flood was estimated at $95,690. Such a visitation may never occur again, yet so vi\-id is its memory that those who passed through it seldom see the clouds cap the mountains without a nervous sensation.
In May, 1899, the Commercial Bank, of Conconully, was organized by L. L. Work. The officers then chosen were Charles Hermann, president ; L. L. Work, cashier. Among the original stockholders were R. L. Rutter, and Dr. Thomas, of Spokane; Dr. Pogue, of Clover, and Wellington French, of Conconully. The capital stock was $25,000. Mr. Work is now president and William Baines cashier. It is the only state bank in Okanogan county, but its facilities are equal to those of the ordinary city bank. It makes a specialty of farm and stock loans; buys warrants and makes collections, and also procures desirable land script for those desiring it. It has also a branch bank at Twisp, the largest town in the ]\Iethow valley.
The morning of August 3, 1901, a violent thunder storm visited Conconully and vicinity. A number of trees were struck by lightning which resulted in disastrous forest fires throughout the hills. Thousands of cords of wood were burned. The county commissioners appointed watchers of the abandoned mining town of Ruby to sa\e the many fine build-
Sunday, June 7, 1903, was devoted to the dedication of the first church building in ConconuUy, that of the Methodists. Rev. T. C. Iliff delivered the dedication address, and the services were characterized by great zeal. The initial steps in the construction of this building were taken in October, 1902, when plans were received from the church extension board for an edifice to cost from $1,200 to $1,500. It was not expected that the contemplated structure could be built for that sum, but $2,500 was considered an approximate figure. It had been planned to complete the building before the holidays, but it was found impossible to procure the lumber, and work was laid over until spring. Eventually the church cost, with furnishings. $3,650. All of this sum was provided by the people of Conconully and vicinity. This was the first Protestant church erected in Okanogan county.
During the summer of 1903 Conconully enjoyed quite a building revival which would have been on a much larger scale had it not been for the fact that it was impossible to secure a sufficient quantity of lumber. Among the improvements of this summer was the new street grade across the creek from the Hotel Elliott, including the construction of a bridge, the building of a new livery stable; construction of a new edifice on the corner west of Charles Hermann's store by Luke and Isaac Morris for a saloon; the construction of an addition to the jail ; the erection of a saw mill ; remodeling of the Record office; an addition to the residences of William Baines and G. A. Blackwell, and Dr. Goggins' residence and office building.
The fraternal orders of Conconully are represented by the Woodmen of the World and its auxiliary. Women of Woodcraft. There is a fine school house with an enrollment of
The townsite of Conconully was platted April 16, 1889, by James Lockwood, Joseph E. Taylor and R. R. Hargrove, who served as trustees selected by residents of the town. The first addition to the town, that of F. M. Baum, was made October 10, 1891. The Salmon Creek addition by Hiram Wellington and W. H. McDonald, was made June 5, 1892. The Hepner addition, by Andrew J. Decatur, was made July 3, 1893, and lot 38, Salmon River Mining District, was platted by the Conconully Mining Company, by D. W. Yeargii:,' president, March 12, 1889.
Being the county seat all the officials, with the exception of the commissioners, have their homes here. E. K. Pendergast, formerly of Waterville, Douglas county, is holding his first term as prosecuting attorney, and his ability and integrity are recognized throughout a large section of eastern Washington, where he is well and most favorably known. Sheriff D. W. Tindall and his efficient deputy, J. O. Burdette, are also serving their first terms, but they are doing this in a manner which meets with the approbation of all irrespective of party lines. J. !M. Pitman is treasurer and Henry Carr auditor of Okanogan county. One of the finest ranches in the state is owned by Mr. Pitman. It lies along the shores of Palmer Lake, near Loomis. The present county clerk is Eugene Wehe. Mr. Wehe also deals largely in real estate.
The pioneer merchant of the town which bears his name was J. A. Loomis. It was in 1886 that he came to the pretty valley of the Sinlahekin, at the base of Palmer Mountain, and purchased an interest in what is now known as Loomis ranch, west of the town. The authoratative and postal name is Loomis, although the name Loomiston has crept into certain maps, papers and pamphlets, and by some old residents in the neighborhood it is still recognized as Loomiston. Legally there is no townsite of Loomis. The land has never been patented, although there is a strong claimant, and the matter is in litigation in the courts. In the early 70's Loomis was the winter cattle station of the Phelps & Wadleigh Company. During the severe winter of 1879-80 they suffered the loss of their entire band of three thousand cattle, and shortly afterward they disposed of the ill-fated station to Henry Wellington, an old time prospector and stockman. In 1884 Mr. Wellington sold the Loomis ranch to Guy Waring. Two years later Waring and Loomis became partners in business. It was at that time that the original trading post was established, and the point derived a "local habitation and a name." Their stock in trade, consisting of almost every variety of general merchandise, was freighted in from Spokane, a long, expensive and inconvenient haul, crossing the Columbia at "Wild Goose Bill's" ferry. This ferry consisted of a small fleet of canoes for the transportation of goods and passengers ; horses and cattle were compelled to swim the stream.
Thus, in 1884 was established the first business enterprise in the northern part of Okanogan county. There were few white men in the country north of the Columbia river at this period. Yet notwithstanding the scarcity of population the store did a flourishing business, the few customers making large individual purchases, thus swelling the volume of trade to profitable proportions. Until the mining e.xcitement of the early 90's the business was conducted in a small building at the creek on the "Loomis ranch." Subsequently the stock of goods was removed to a larger and more substantial structure near the Northern Hotel, and there the business was continued until 1898, at which period the firm of J. A. Loomis & Company was dissolved. The unfortunate head of the concern and chief proprietor became insane, necessitating his confinement in the state asylum at Medical Lake, Spokane county, where he died in the autumn of 1899. Although Mr. Loomis had been eminently successful in business throughout the greater portion of his career, he became insolvent in 1894. Thereafter the business was in charge of J O. Calhoun, acting as agent for the creditors.
Previous to the disastrous winter of 1879- 80, the firm of Phelps & Wadleigh ranged their large herd of cattle in the Sinlahekin valley in the basin formed by Palmer, Aeneas, Chapacca and Gold mountains. During the early 70's Hiram F. Smith, well known throughout the west as "Okanogan" Smith, with his partner, John McDonald, James Palmer, after whom the famous Palmer Mountain was named, George Runnells, better known as "Tenas George," Henry Wellington and several other adventurous spirits came up this beautiful valley and made the original locations on the mountains named. Of these early pioneers some have joined the great majority; others yet remain to tell of the early days and the early struggles outside, as it were, the pale of civilization.
But long before this period of which we write, and soon after the opening of the civil war, Alvin R. Thorp came overland from Missouri and prospected for placer leads in many sections of the northwest. Mr. Thorp now oAvns one of the best cultivated agricultural and fruit farms in the valley adjacent to Loomis. With him at one time was Mike Byrnes, a characteristic prospector of the old school. Byrnes was somewhat of a literary turn of mind and compiled a voluminous diary reporting many of his adventures. In 1879 he made a trip from Victoria up the Stickeen and hundreds of miles east overland, only to be rewarded by sickness and disappointed hopes.
of the other "Dutch Jake," formerly of the Couer d'Alenes, now of Spokane. Tacol> Neiderauer discovered the O. S. (Oviantum Suflicit) mine and located his homestead at the base of Mt. Aeneas. On his ranch are two small lakes, one of which is plentifully s.ocked with carp. It appears that "Okanogan" Smith made the original location near Mr. Ellme-i ham. He named it the "Julia," but it has since been re-located as the "King Solomon," and is now owned by people residing in Spokane. The first stakes on Palmer Mountain were driven by Joseph Hunter. He discovered the Black Bear mine in 1887. One year subsequently he disposed of the property for $12,000. The five-stamp mill at Loomis is named the Black Bear.
A typical western mining town is Loonvs. Its main street of three blocks in length was laid out in perhaps the worst place in the valley. It rises abruptly north and south 'from a deep ravine which intersects the theoretical townsite. This ravine has been partially filled in and "Main" street graded. In 1888 George H. Noyes arrived from Springfield, Massachusetts and purchased Guy Waring"s interest in the trading post. Through the efforts of Mr. Noyes a postofilice was established at Loon-,is and he became the first postmaster, holding the office until the incoming of President Cleveland's administration in 1893. Guy Waring returned to Boston where, after a residence of a few years, he drifted back to Okanogan county, subsequently locating near Winthrop, in the Methow country. At present Mr. Noyes is located at Loomis and holds the office of United States Commissioner.
A large number of prospectors and mining operators were attracted to this district in the early 90's by the rich mineral discoveries, especially those on Palmer mountain. Samuel I. Silverman was among the first to arrive, coming from Spokane, where he was recognized as a prominent mining promoter. Mr. Silverman organized the Oro Fino Placer Mining
Company, and also platted what he termed the townsite of "Loomistown." J. A. Loomis and a Spokane real estate firm. Tilton, Stocker & Frye, were associated with Silverman. They undertook to secure a title to the projected townsite, but owing to internal dissensions the enterprise, so far as a proper title was concerned, failed.
Loomis improved rapidly during 189 1-2, affording an embarrassment of riches in the way of business; there being three general stores, eight saloons, two dance halls, and other business concerns. Mining development, though in many instances woefully mismanaged, employed hundreds of men and proved the immense value of the ledges. At enormous expense mining machinery was rushed into the district. Some of it yet lies on the hillsides, never having been erected; silent yet eloquent testimony to the disastrous results of the financial depression of 1893. Mills and concentrators were erected before the over-sanguine owners knew what treatment was required for the most economical extraction and conservation of ore values. Then came 1893 - after that the deluge. Mines employing many men were closed down peremptorily. The district remained dromant up to the fall of 1898.
During the summer and fall of 1899 a wonderful change for the better passed over Loomis. From a sleepy, unprogressive settlement there sprang into life a bustling, hustling mining camp where the sound of the hammer was heard from morning until nightfall ; only the scarcity of lumber retarded the erection of many buildings badly needed, and which would otherwise have been added to the town. Every hotel and lodging house was crowded to the point of discomfort. It was a daily occurrence to meet men going from one hotel to another in search of a bed. The underlying cause of this new-born prosperity may be signified in two words, "mining development." Conservative mining men reinforced by ample capital, injected new life into the district by opening up long neglected properties in a manner calculated to insure the prosperity of Loomis for a long time to come. Many of the old prospectors who had staked their claims in the \-icinity of Loomis did not abandon their holdings when the "boom" collapsed in 1893. They had remained and the better days of 1899 found them able to dispose of their claims at fair prices and reap the reward which they had felt sure was to come .
In May, 1897. Rev. J. T. ?vlc Arthur, of Waterville, Douglas county, and Rev. C. H. Phipps, of Spokane, visited Loomis and organized the First Presbyterian church. The foundation for this event had been laid by Rev. J. E. Stewart, now resident pastor, and a number of other communicants of that denomination. Services are held in the school house. The trustees elected were William McDonald, O. S. Stocker and Dr. S. M. Willard. Occasional services are held by the Methodists in the school house. The Catholic is the only church society in Loomis having a house of worship. Services are held once a month.
"There are between fifty and sixty scholars in the school and that is too many for one teacher to handle and do justice to herself or to the children. It has been necessary to send for additional seats to accommodate those now in the room. There are a number who yet expect to attend. There is no place to put them under present conditions. It is deplorable that the finances of the district are at so low an ebb that another department cannot be opened for a portion at least of the younger scholars. We have a progressive school board, alive to the best interests of our educational establishment, anxious to do all in their power to supply school facilities to all who apply, and they may yet be able to remedy the present congestion."' A recondescence of animated prosperity was in evidence in Loomis durinsf the autumn of 1897. In November of that year immense volumes of freight were pouring into the town. These large invoices of merchandise were indicative of growing consumption and a better demand for goods than had been experienced in several years. At the steamer landing, Riverside, a large quantity of general merchandise was awaiting transportation to Loomis, which was at this period an active distributing point. Confidence in the increasing prosperit)' was thus voiced by the Palmer Mountain Prospector :
Somehow or other there is a marked improvement in the camp. The vivifying ozone coupled with encouraging prospects of renewed activity in mining circles has touched the spot like a bumper of champagne and there is more spring to the footstep, a brighter sparkle in the eye, a clearer ring to the voice than for a long time. People seem in a better humor, there is a pleased smile hovering about every countenance and a touch of good fellowship prevails. There are open discussions of prospective and pending deals, and vague rumors and hints of extensive development under consideration, a restoration of confidence among the weak-kneed, its solidification among the always hopeful, and a general feeling that the clouds are rolling by. Added to this on every hand come in the most encouraging reports of improvement in the character of quartz encountered on every property under development. It is the first ray of the coming up of the refulgent sun of prosperity, and it is light that gladdens the heart and injects new life into the veins of every resident of the county. It is the first real rejuvenating health throb of the pulsations that are to pump quickening blood into Loomis, and the adjacent mining districts, and will eventually make of this the center of the greatest mining enterprises and more of them than were ever set on foot in the northwest. The going out of the old and coming in of the new year will be a great epoch in the history of the upper Okanogan, or no faith can be placed in the signs of the times which just now point that way very distinctly.
During the month of December, 1897, there was considerable indignant protest against apparently needless delay in inlx)un(l freight transportation. It was asserted, and with excellent proof, that from six to eight weeks were required in which to ship goods from Spokane and Seattle to Loomis. One humorouslv inclined individual claimed that he was "afraid to order iron castings from the outside as there is danger of their being spoiled by decomposition before arrival." This became a new classification of "perishable freight."
The same month a Ladies' Aid Society was organized. Mrs. F. M. Dallam was chosen president, Mrs. James O'Herrin, secretary, and Mrs. S. M. Willard, treasurer. Meetings were held at the residences of members. The Christmas of 1897 was celebrated by elaborate exercises at the school house under the auspices of the local Sabbath school. They included a Christmas tree from which presents were generously distributed, music and literary exercises.
The summer of 1899 was accentuated by a marked improvement in property values. Buildings sold at high prices which only a short time previous had been considered nearly worthless. James Henderson refused an offer of $2,000 for a building on Main street which he had recently purchased at a remarkably low figure from John Boyd. The same day an ofifer of $2,500 was refused for a building on Main street. The reader should take into consideration that these prices included the buildings alone, as the real estate was unsalable, not having been patented.
March i, 1899, one of the warehouses of the Loomis & Company's store building was removed to Spectacle Lake by S. J. Hall and E. W. Pember. The edifice having been loaded upon two wagons was transported intact, the motive power being twelve horses. This building was a portion of the property recently purchased by Rev. J. E. Stewart for his farm near the lake. The novel transportation of this structure through Main street attracted no little attention and comment.
Saturday. March 25. 1899, there was enacted in the streets of Loomis a tragdev resulting in the death of James O'Connell, otherwise known as "Pinnacle Jim." He was shot to death by John O'Herrin on the sidewalk in front of Woodard's saloon. The bodv of the dead man was removed to an empty store building and left for the night. 0" the following morning the body was examined by Dr. Willard and three bullet wounds discovered. One had entered the right breast below the collar bone, passing through the body and coming out near the spinal column. Another had entered the left shoulder, ranged downward and was removed from near the surface by Dr. Willard. The third bullet passed through the fleshy part of the left forearm. Near the scene of the killing a knife w-as found.
At the examination of O'Herrin which took place Monday evening following, the circumstances of the shooting were detailed and the facts appeared to fully justify O'Herrin. He pleaded self-defense and the plea was apparently well substantiated by witnesses. The defendant, testifying in his own behalf, said that he had known O'Connell about eight years and had frequently loaned him money. On Saturday, the day of the shooting, O'Herrin claimed that O'Connell had abused him and had continued the abuse in Woodard's saloon, and invited him to go outside. Defendant had done so and observing O'Connell reach behind his back as though in search of a weapon, he had shot in self-defense. This version of the affair was corroborated by a number of witnesses, and the court, taking the matter under advisement until Tuesday morning, discharged O'Herrin from custody.
"Pinnacle Jim" was one of the best known old-time prospectors in the Palmer Mountain mining district. His funeral occurred Monday afternoon, March 2^, and the body was followed to the grave by a long procession of friends. During the week following O'Connell's death Mr. D. G. Chilson received a letter from a Mrs. O'Neal, of San Francisco. in()uiring the whereabouts of James O'Connell who, the letter stated, was Mrs. O'Neal's uncle. The letter was dated and postmarked two cla\s before O'Conijell's death. From the contents it appeared that nothing had been heard from
Sunda}-, October 6, 1899, Oscar McClure, a young man about sixteen years of age, was drowned in the slough near Golden Zone, in the vicinity of Loomis. The unfortunate youth was attempting to ride a log when it rolled suddenly, precipitating him into the water. Although his companion, George \V. Loudon, made strenous efforts to rescue him. they proved unavailing there being no boat at the point where the disaster occurred. The body was buried Ttiesday near the scene of the accident. The lad's parents resided at Clover, Washington.
In October a petition was circulated by Deputy Sheriff Murphy among the business men for the purpose of securing means to erect a city jail. Sufficient money was subscribed to erect a structure 14 x 14 feet in size.
In December, 1899, a gratifying increase was noticeable in the business of the Loomis postoffice. During the months of September, October and November $16,000 worth of postal orders were issued and the cancellation of stamps had increased $200 per month over the report for the preceding quarter. So heavy was the incoming mail that the contractor barely arrived on schedule time.
A romantic legend is connected with the death of "Humpy," an aged Indian squaw, who was drowned in the Sinlahekin in December, not for from Loomis. The name "Humpy" was bestowed on her after her back had been seriously injured from cruel blows at the hands of a jealous Indian lover many years before her death. It is claimed on substantial authority that her white admirer of whom the red lover was jealous, was none other than a distinguished "remittance man," from England, who could, if so disposed, trace his genealogy high in the British aristocracy. The unfortunate woman was well and favorably known throughout the northern Okanogan country. She was invariably kind to her people who mL-)urned
Joseph H. McDonald, one of the pioneer prospectors of Okanogan county, who came to Loomis soon after the county was organized, died at midnight, January 28, 1899. Mr. Mc- Donald had been closely identified with all the prominent mining camps in this section of the country during the "boom" days, first at Ruby and ConconuUy and, toward the close of his life he had divided his time between Loomis and Republic. He had been for a number of years well acc[uainted with "Okanogan" Smith, "Tenas George," Henry Well.ngton, James Palmer and other well-known frontiersmen and prospectors. The funeral took place Monday, December 4, and a large concourse of friends and fellow citizens followed the remains to the cemetery where the last sad rites were performed by J. O. Calhoun.
Not until October, 1900, was Loomis connected with the outside world by long-distance telephone. At present the service is all that could be desired.
There are in Loomis four secret societies. A camp of Woodmen of the World was organized July 21, 1900, beginning its existence with a membership of twenty-seven. In 1902 the first Odd Fellows lodge in Okanogan county was instituted here. Puritan Circle Women of Woodcraft has a strong membership and is in a flourishing condition financially and socially. During the autumn of 1903 Aerie No. 522, Fraternal Order of Eagles, was organized and at present has a good working membership.
In the northeastern corner of Okanogan county, in the Meyers Creek Mining District, is a group of four little villages, all within a few miles of each other, and chief among them is Chesaw. The town is located on ^Meyers
Creek, only a short distance south (if tlie International Boundary line between the United States and British Columbia. The surrounding country is rich in mining prospects, and with promised transportation facilities, Chesaw, as the center of the Meyers Creek Mining District, is destined to become one of the principal towns in Okanogan county. It is connected by daily stage with Republic, in Ferry county, and with Oroville and points west by stage three times a week. The town is also connected with the outside world by the Pacific States telephone lines.
For many years prior to the opening of the "North Half" of the Colville Indian reservation to mineral entry in 1896, there lived on the site of the present town of Chesaw a Chinaman named Chesaw, with an Indian wife. Chesaw devoted his time to agricultural pursuits and living in a cabin on Meyers Creek. His humble "bungaloo" was on the trail through the north country used by the Indians and the few early settlers. This trail passed through Oroville, on the Okanogan river, to Chesaw's cabin, and to the east through Rock Creek and Midway, on the Kettle River in British Columbia, thence to Marcus in Stevens county. The spot where now stands the thriving town of Chesaw was known in those early days as "Chesaw's ford," of Meyers Creek, and when the town first sprung into life it was named Chesaw in honor of the old Chinese settler. This is believed to have been the first instance of an American town named in honor of a Chinaman.
\\'hen the reser\-ation was thrown open, in February, 1896, many prospectors flocked to the Chesaw crossing of ]\Ieyers Creek, which was known to he rich in mineral, .\mong the prospectors who came in 1S96 were Dennis McCarthy, Louis Larson, Robert Allison, John Mulhollen. Philip Pingston. J. W. Shrowdy, J. H. Mur])hy, Jerome Ilenkins, D. W. Ferrel, jnhn .McEachcn, Frank Currv, Tohn McXeil,
James Long, D. L. Webb, Daniel McLung, William Fahsbender, James Lynch, James Grant, John Grant and Frank Eiholtz. The best strike made during 1896 was the Reno, located by Robert Allison and J(jhn Mulhollen, which proved to be very rich in gold. When the town was platted the townsite was located on this mining claim. These prospectors spent the winter of 1896-7 at this point, a few erecting log cabins, and the majority living in tents. The following spring more prospectors came into " the land of gold." and in June the first store in Chesaw made its appearance. It was opened by U. L. McCurdy, who brought in a stock of goods and started up for business in a tent 10 .x 20 feet in size. A thriving business resulted and Mr. McCurdy decided to make the business permanent. .\ccordingly in the fall of 1897 he erected an 18x36 log cabin for a store building and increased his stock of goods. A few years later the business increased and a fine frame building took the place of the log structure.
In the spring of 1898 more people came to the new town and other business enterprises were put on foot. The citizens succeeded in securing a post ofiice and U. L. McCurdy. the pioneer merchant, became the postmaster. .\n assay office, which is always one of the first business enterprises in a new camp, was started in a tent. Joshua Clary opened a saloon in the new town the same spring. These were the only business houses established in 1S98, but many cabins were erected during the year and a lively camp sprung into e.xistence. In 1899 E. E. Stowell established the second general merchandise store. Price's blacksmith shop was also put into commission. A Sundayschool was commenced thfs year and has ever since been continued. There is no church building in the town.
Barker's hotel was built in 1900, and the year following Monson Brothers erected another hotel. Other business enterprises followed later and Chesaw is now the metropolis of eastern Okanogan county with a population of about 250.
The only fire that ever visited Chesaw was in October, 1902, when the Hotel Barker was destroyed. The loss was partly covered by insurance. Chesaw has a good public school, about fifty scholars being enrolled. There are Odd Fellows, Eagles and Woodmen of the
World lodges, and a miners' union. In the vicinity of the town there is quite a good acreage of agricultural land from which fine crops are being gathered. Most of this land has been taken under the homestead law. Its quality is much better than that found in some other parts of the state. At present the principal crops are grasses, wheat and oats. They are mostly used for home consumption as it has been found that transporting them to the outside market has been unprofitable. Stockraising is another industry which is carried on to some extent. In the neighboring hills bunch grass grows in abundance.
Provenance
Text from Illustrated History of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan Counties, State of Washington, published 1904, in the public domain in the United States and digitised by the Internet Archive.