Vernon County, Wisconsin - Chapter 4: Early Explorations, 1884

Chapter 4: Early Explorations

The territory now included within the limits of Vernon county, was first visited along its western border over 200 years ago by Frenchmen, from the river St. Lawrence, in Canada. The first to approach this region of country was John Nicolet, in 1634, who came no nearer than to the village of the Mascoutins, on Fox river, supposed to have been located somewhere oil that stream within the present boundaries of (4reeii Lake Co., Wis. A Jesuit missionary, in 1070, also visited the Mascoutins. His name was Claude AUouez ; but he came no nearer what is now Vernon county, than did Nicolet, in 1634. In 1673, Louis Jol let, accompanied by a missionary, James Marquette and five other Frenchmen, ascended the Fox river to the portage, now Portage, Columbia Co., AVis.; crossed over to the Wisconsin river and dropped down that river to its mouth. Thence, Joliet journeyed down the Mississippi ; so, of course, no part of the present Vernon county was seen by him.

Expedition Of Michael Accait

In IdSO La Salle, who was then on the Illinois river, was desirous to have the Mississippi explored above the point where it was first seen by Joliet ; that is, above the mouth of the Wisconsin river ; so he dispatched one Michael Accau, on an expedition thither ; with him went Antoine Auguel and the Rev. Louis Hennepin, a recollet friar. The party proceeded d )wn the Illinois river in April and up the Mississippi river. They were the first white men who ever saw any portion of what is, at this time, Vernon county, or who set foot upon its territory. This was in May, 1680.

The description of the voyage along what is now the western boundary of Wisconsin (including, of course, Vernon county) is interesting, as given by Hennepin :

" On the eastern side ( of the Mississippi ) you meet first an inconsiderable river { Rock river) and then further on another, called by the Indians Ouisconsin (Wisconsin) which comes from the east and east-northeast. * * * It is almost as broad as the river Seignelay, or Lslinois ( Illinois river ), and empties into the river Colbert (Mississippi), 100 leagues above the river Seignelay.

"Twenty-four leagues above (the Wisconsin river ), you come to the Black river, called by the Nadouessious, or Issate (the modern Sioux) Chabadeba, or Chabaoudeba ; it seems inconsiderable. Thirty leagues higher up, you find the lake of Tears ( Lake Pepin ), which we so named, because the Indians who had taken us, wishing to kill us, some of them wept the whole night to induce the others to consent to our death. This lake which is formed by the river Colbert is seven leagues long and about four wide ; there is no considerabie current in the middle that we could perceive, but only at its entrance and exit. Half a league below the lake of Tears, on the south side, is Buffalo river (the Chippewa), full of turtles. It is so called by the Indians on account of the numbers of buffalo found there. We follow-ed it for ten or twelve leagues; it empties with rapidity into the river Colbert, but as you ascend it, it is always gentle and free from rapids. It is skirted by mountains, far enough off ill some places to form prairies. The mouth

"Forty leagues above is a river (St. Croi.x ) full of rapids, bv which, striking northwest, you can proceed to Lake Oonde (Lake Superior) as far as Minissakonat river ( the St. Louis), which empties into that lake. The first river (St. Croix) is called Tomb rivei', because the Issati left tliere the body of one of their warriors, killed bj' a rattle snake, on whom according to their custom, I put a blanket. This act of humanity gained me much importance by the gratitude displayed b)' the men of the deceased's tribe, in a great banquet which they gave me in their country, and to which nicire than 100 Lidians were invited."

The next expedition independent of that of Accau, and ilovx the Mississippi from the St. Croix to the Wisconsin, river, and, therefore, along the western border of what is now Vernon county, was tliat of Daniel Grcysolon Du Lhut, generally known as Duluth. He and some companions, in 1680, made the journey across from Lake Superior to the Mississippi, by way of Bois l>rule river and the St. Croix. LT])on reaching the Mississippi, he learned the fact that some Frenchmen had passed up and had been robbed and carried off by the Sioux. This was Accau and his party. These, however, he tinally induced the Indians to liberate, and tlie whole party floated down the river to the mouth of the Wisconsin, returning by that stream to Mackinaw.

Le Sueur, a Frenchman, passed up the Mississippi from the mouth of the Wisconsin in 108.3; but of this voyage we have no account, only that he was on his way to the Sioux country. perrot's voyage to the west.

Nicholas Perrot was the next to ascend the Mississippi ; and his was the fourth expedition that had floated along the western border of what is now Vernon county. This was in 1084. Perrot had been appointed by the governor of Canada to command in the west, leaving Montreal with twenty men. His object was the establishing of a post on the Mississippi. Me proceeded from the St. Lawrence to Green bay, and up the Fox river to the portage; tlience down the Wisconsin and up the Mississip])i to Lake Pepin, on the east side of which, near its mouth, he erected a stockade.

The next year he prevented with a good deal of difficulty the capture of his post by the Fox Indians and their allies. He passed the winter of 168.5-6 in his stockade, and then returned to Green bay 1)V the same route traveled by him when going out. In 1688 he again ascended the Mississippi from the mouth of the Wisconsin to the mouth of the St. Peters, and returned by the same route to Green bay. This ended the explorations of Perrot in the valley of the Mississippi.

Le Sueur Again On The Mississippi

In the year 1700 the fifth explorer ascended the Mississippi. His name was Le Sueur, the same who had seventeen years before I'een among the Sioux. From the 1st of September until the 5th he advanced but fourteen leagues. It is probable he landed several times in what is now Vernon county. Le Sueur was the last to ascend the Mississippi until 17-27, when Sienr LaPerriere attempted a renewal of the fur trade which the governor of Canada had resolved to abandon west of Mackinaw, some time previous.

I,A Perriere Builds A Fort On Lake Pepik

"Fort Beauharnais," on Lake Pepin, was erected by LaPerriere, but it was not long occupied as a military post. The same year, a Jesuit missionary, Louis Ignatius Guignas, attempted to found a mission among the Sioux on the U])per Mississippi, passing up the river for that purpose to Fort Beauharnais, but it proved a failure. He was on the Mississip])i again in 17-S6, and at Lake Pepin, with M. de St. Pierre, but of his latter voyage little ikno\vii. From this time until the war nf 175.')- 0(1, between France and Great Britain, Frencli

The Journey Of Jonathan Carver

'i'he first to ascend the river after Great Britain had assumed control of the country, was Jonathan Carver. In 1766 he reached the month of the Wisconsin, just above which he found an Indian village called La Prairies les Chiens by the French, the site of the present village of Prairie du Chien, in Crawford Co., Wis. It was inhabited by the Fox Indians. He says the name meant Dog Plains.

"It ('Prairies les Chiens') is a large town and contains about 300 familie.'^; the houses are well built after the Indian manner, and pleasantly situated on a very rich soil, from which they raise every necessary of life in great abundance. I saw here many horses of a good size and shape. This town is the great mart where all the adjacent tribes, and even those who inhabit the most remote branches of the Mississippi, annually assemble about the latter end of May, bringing with them their furs to dispose of to the traders. But it is not always that they conclude their sale here; this is determined by a general council of the chiefs, who consult whether it would be more conducive to their interest to sell their goods at this place, or carry them on to Louisiana or Mitchillimackinac. According to the decision of this council they either proceed further, or return to their different homes.

"The Mississippi, at the entrance of the Wisconsin, near which stands a mountain of considerable height, is about half a mile over; but opposite to the last mentioned town it appears to be more than a mile wide, and full of islands, the soil of which is extraordinarily rich, and but thinly wooded.

"A little further to the west, on the contrary side, a small river flows into the Mississippi, which the French call Le Jaun riviere, or the Yellow river. I then bought a canoe, and with two servants, one a French Canadian and the

About sixty miles below this lake is a mour - tain remarkably situated; for it stands by it self exactly in the middle of the river, and looks as if it had slidden from the adjacent shore into the stream. It cannot be termed an island, as it rises immediately from the brink of the water to a considerable height. Both the Indians and the French call it the mountain in the river."

"One day, having landed on the shore of the Mississippi, some miles below Lake Pepin, whilst my attendants were preparing my dinner, I walked out to take a view of the adjacent country. I liad not proceeded far before I came to a tine, level, open plain, on which I perceived at a little distance a partial elevation tliat had the appearance of an intrenchment. On a nearer inspection I had greater reason to suppose that it had really been intended for this many centuries ago. Notwithstanding it was now covered with grass, I could plainly discern that it had once been a breast work of about four feet in height, extending the best part of a mile, and sufficiently ca))acious to cover 5,000 men. Its foim was somewhat circular, and its flanks reached to the river. Though much defaced by time, every angle was distinguishable, and appeared as regular, and fashioned with as much military skill, as if planned by Vauban himself. T he ditch was not visible, but I thought on examining more curiously, that I could perceive there certainly had been one. From this situation also, I am convinced that it must have been for this purpose. It fronted the country, and the rear was covered by the river; nor was there any rising ground for a considerable way that commanded it; a few straggling oaks were alone to be seen near it. In many places small tracks were across it by the feet of the elk and deer, and from the depth of the bed of earth by which it was covered, I was able to draw cei tain conclusions of its great antiquity. I examined all the angles and every part with great attention, and have often blamed myself since for not encamping on the spot, and drawing an exact plan of it. To show that this description is not the offspring of a heated imagination, or the cl)imerical tale of a mistaken traveler, I find on inquiry since my return, that Mons St. Pierre, and several traders, have, at different times, taken notice of similar appearances, on which they have formed the same conjectures, but without examining them so minutely as I did. How a work of this kind could exist in a country that has hitherto (according to the general received opinion) been the seat of war to untutored Indians alone, whose whole stock of military knowledge has only, till within two centuries, amounted to drawing tlie bow, and whose only breast work even at present is the thicket, I know not. I have given as exact an account as possible of this singular appearanc^p, and leave to future explorers of these distant regions to discover whether it is a production of nature or art. Perhaps the hints I have here given might lead to a more perfect investigation of it, and give us very different ideas of the ancient state of realms that we at present believe to have been from the earliest periods only in the habitations of savages.

"The Mississippi below this lake flows with a gentle current, but the breadth of it very uncertain, in some places being upward of a mile, in others not more than a quarter. This river has a range of mountains on each side throughout the whole of the way, which in particular parts approach near to it, in others lie at a greater distance. The land betwixt the mountains, and on their sides, is generally covered with grasSj with a few groves of trees interspersed, near which large droves of deer and elk are frequently seen feeding. In many places pyramids of rocks appeared, resembling old ruinous towers; at others amazing precipices, and what is very remarkable, whilst this scene presented itself on one side, the opposite side of the same mountain was covered with the finest herbage, which gradually ascended to its summit. From thence the most beautiful and extensive prospect that imagination can form opens to your view. Verdant plains, fruitful meadows, numerous islands, and all these abounding with a variety of trees that yield amazing quantities of fruit, without care or cultivation, such as the nut-tree, the maple which produces sugar, vines loaded with rich grapes, and plum trees bending under their blooming burdens; but above all, the fine river flowing gently beneath, and reaching as far as the eye can extend, by turns attract your attention and excite your wonder."

It was nearly forty years subsequent to Carver's visit before the Mississippi was ascended by any one who left a record of his journey. In 1805 Major Z. M. Pike made a reconnoisance up the river. We give his description of what he saw as he passed from a point just below the mouth of the Wisconsin up to "a prairie called La Cross:"

"September 4th, 1805, Wednesday. - Breakfasted just below the mouth of the Wisconsin. Arrived at the Prairie Les Chiens about 1 1 o'clock; took quarters at Capt. Fisher's, and were politely received by him and Mr. Frazer.

"September 5th, Thursday. - Embarked about half past 10 o'clock in a Schenectady boat, to go to the mouth of the Wisconsin, in order to take the latitude, and look at the situation of the adjacent hills for a post. Was accompanied by Judge Fisher, Mr. Frazer and Mr. Woods. We ascended the hill on the west side of the Mississijjpi, and made a choice of a spot which I thought most eligible, being level on the top, having a spring in the rear, and commanding a view of the country around. A shower of rain came on which wet us, and we returned to the village without having ascended the Wisconsin as we intended. Marked four trees with A, \i, C, D, and squared the sides of one in the center. Wrote to the General.

of the lower band of the Sioux. Visited and laid out a position for a post, on a hill called Petit Gri's, ou the Wisconsin, three miles above its mouth. Mr. Fisher accompanied me; was taken very sick, in consequence of drinking some water out of the Wisconsin. The Puaiits never have any white interpreters, nor have the Fols Avoin (Menomonee) Nation. In my council I spoke to a Frenchman, he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants.

"September 8th., Sunday. - Embarked at half past 11 o'clock in two batteaux. The wind fair and fresb. I found myself very much embarrassed and cramped, in my new boat-,with pi-ovision and baggage. I embarked two interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name was Pierre Rosseau, and the other named Joseph ReinuUe, paid by Mr. Frazer to accompany me as high as the Falls of St. Anthony. Mr. Frazer is a young gentleman, cleik to Mr. 131akely, of Montreal; he was born in Vermont, but has latterly resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman I am much indebted; he procured for me everything in his power that I stood in need of; dispatched his l)ark canoes and remained himself to go on with me. His design was to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We sailed well, came eighteen miles and encamped on the west bank. I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the principal inhabitants of the village. There is, howevt-r, a material distinction to be made in the nature of those attentions. The kindness of Messrs. Fisher, Frazer and Woods (all Americans), seemed to be the spontaneous effusions of good will, and partiality to their countrymen; it extended to the accomodation, convenience, exercises and pastimes of my men; and whenever they proved stxperior to the French openly showed their pleasure. But the French Canadians appeared attentive, rather from their

"September 9th, Monday. - Embarked early. Dined at Cape Garlic, or at Garlic river, after which we came on to an island on the east side about five miles below the river Iowa, and encamped. Rained before sunset. Distance twenty-eight miles.

"September 10th, Tuesday. - Rain still continuing, we remained at onr camp. Having shot at some pigeons, the report was heard at the Sioux lodges; when La Yieulle sent down six of his young men to inform me that he had waited three days with meat, etc., but last night they had began to drink, and, that on the next day he would receive me with his people sober. I returned him for answer, that the season was advanced, that time was pressing, and that if the rain ceased, I must go on. Mr. Frazer and the interpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked about 1 o'clock. Frazer returning, informed me that the chief acquiewed in my reasons for pressing forward, but that he had prepared a i)ipe (by way of letter) to present me, to show to all the Sioux above, with a message to inform them tliat I was a chief of their new fathers, and that he wished me to be treated with friendship and past 3 o'clock, cime three miles and encamped on the west side. Mr. Frazer we left behind, but he came up with his two peroques about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In the night a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. During our stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed to keep the crowd from my boats. At my departure their soldiers said: As I had shaken hands with their chief, they must shake hands with my soldiers. In which request I willingly indulged them.

eanoes also came on until 9 o'clock. Stopped for breakfast, and made a fire. Mr. Frazer staid with me, and finding liis peroques not quite able to keep up, he dispatched them. We embarked; came on until near 6 o'clock, and encamped on the west side. Saw nothing of his peroques, after they left us. Sujiposed to have come sixteen miles this day. Rain and cold winds, all day ahead. The river lias never been clear of islands since I left Prairie Les Chicn. I absolutely believe it, here, to be two miles wide. Hills, or rather prairie knobs, on both sides.

"September l-2th, Thursday. It raining very hard in the morning, we did not embark until 10 o'clock. Mr. Frazer's peroques then coming up. It was still raining, and was very cold. Passed the Racine river, also a prairie called La Cross, from a game of ball played frequently on it by the Sioux Indians. This prairie is very handsome, it has a small square hill, similar to some mentioned by Carver. It is bounded in the rear, by hills similar to the Prairie Les Chicn. Oil this prairie Mr. Frazer showed me some holes, dug by the Sioux, when in expectation of an attack into which they first put their women and children, and then crawl themselves. They were generally round, and about ten feet in diameter; but some were half moons and quite a breastwork. This I understood was the chief work, which was the pi'inciple redoubt. Their modes of constructing are, the moment they apprehend, or discover, an enemy on a prairie, they commence digging with their knives, tomahawks and a wooden ladle; and in an incredibly short space of lime, they have a hole sutficiently deep to cover them.selves and their family, from the balls or arrows of the enemy. '1 hey have no idea of taking those subterraneous redoubts by storm; as they would probably lose a great number of men in the attack; and although they might be successful ill the event, it would be considered a very imprudent action. Mr. Frazer finding his canoes not able to keep up, staid at this prairie to organize one of them, intending then, to overtake us."

[observations by maj. pikk.J "The village of the Prairie Les Chiens is situated about one league above the mouth of the Wisconsin river. * * * * qjjg prairie fin which the village is situated is bounded in the rear by high bald hills. It is from one mile to three-quarters of a mile from the river, and extends about eight miles from the Mississippi, to where it strikes the Wisconsin at the Petit Grey, which bears from the village southeast by east.

* * * From the village to Lake Pepin, we have, on the west shore, first Yellow river, of about twenty yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi nearly due west. Second the Iowa river, about 100 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi about northwest. Third, the Racine river, about twenty yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi nearly west, and navigable for canoes sixty miles. Fourth, the rivers Enibai ra and L'Eau Claire, which joins their waters just as they form a confluence with the Mississijipi, and are about sixty yards wide, and bear nearly southwest.

"On the east shore, in the same distance, is the river de la Prairie la Cross, which empties into the Mississippi, at the head of the prairie of that name. It is about twenty yards wide, and bears north north-west.

* * In this division of the Mississippi the shores are more than three-fourths prairie on both sides, or, more properly speaking, bald hills, which, instead of running parallel with the river, form a continual succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low valleys; they appear to head on the river, and to transverse the country in an angular direction. Those hills and valleys give rise to some of the most suT»- lime and romantic views I ever saw. But this irregular scenery is sometimes interrupted by a wide extended plain, which brings to mind the verdant lawn of civilized life, and would almost induce the traveler to imagine himself in the center of a highly cultivated plantation. The timber of this division is generally birch, elm and Cottonwood, all the cliffs being bordered by cedar."

After the expedition of Maj. Pike, voyages up the river soon became common and the published naratives of them are numerous; but nothing is elicited in such as have been examined that is of particular importance not elsewhere given in this history.