Vernon County, Wisconsin - Chapter 25: Previously Published Historical Sketches, 1884
From History of Vernon County, Wisconsin, Together with Sketches of Its Towns, Villages and Townships, Educational, Civil, Military and Political History; Portraits of Prominent Persons, and Biographies of Representative Citizens; History of Wisconsin.., published 1884. 8,016 words, reproduced complete and unedited. Source changes inside the text are labelled in place.
Contents
10 sectionsThe section headings the book prints inside this chapter. Each one jumps to where it begins.
The text
8,016 wordsMachine-read from scans of History of Vernon County, Wisconsin, Together with Sketches of Its Towns, Villages and Townships, Educational, Civil, Military and Political History; Portraits of Prominent Persons, and Biographies of Representative Citizens; History of Wisconsin.., published 1884. Nothing has been corrected: fixing what looks like a misspelled name is how an invented one gets published. Source changes are marked where they occur.
Chapter 25: Previously Published Historical Sketches
There have been printed at different periods historical sketches of a part or of the whole of the county. These are reproduced in this chapter because of their value for comparison, as showing the changes which have taken place in the county, and its increase.
I. From The Western Times, Sept. 6, 1856
Tlie fall emigration has commenced coming in, and new houses and other buildings are going up in all parts of the county. New villages are springing uj) and new roads are being laid and worked. Tiie crops, already harvested, are good. The corn crop, although much of it was put in late, will not be below an average crop. Potatoes are excellent and very abundant. In short. Bad Ax county is going forward in fine style with every descrijition of improvements. The Messrs. Gillelts' and Mr. Goode's steam mills will make lumber more plentiful for building.
Land in this county, generally, we think, is very cheap, comparing the quality and convenience to good markets, with other counties. And there is just as good land as ever a plow was used in, to be pre-empted yet, in the county, or entered as soon as the land office opens. And mechanics who wish to obtain good homes and plenty of business cannot do better than come to Bad Ax county. In Viroqua there are the very best kind of openings for a large carriage shop, a jeweller's shop, a tailor's shop, a harness shop, a bakery, a machine shop and foundry, and many others.
locations for water and steam power of every description, and plenty of timber. Numerous springs are scattered over the county, from which flows, bright and sparkling, through trout brooks, plentiful supplies of the "nectar that Jupiter sips." On the ridge, where wells have to be dug, the water is generally obtained at less than forty feet on an average, and unfailing water has been obtained near this place (Viroqua), on top of a ridge, at a depth of twelve feet only.
Had Ax county, notwithstanding its uncouth name, is an excellent county of land. The most part of the county along the Mississippi river is quite broken, being cut up by many large and small streams that flow west into the Mississippi, but the central part rises on to the high table prairie, and is now covered with fine farms under a good state of cultivation.. The eastern part of the county, including the Kickapoo valley, is covered with heavy hardwood timber. There is no poor soil in the county. The bluffs on the Mississippi and the heavy timber of the Kickapoo, are equally as rich in soil as the high prairie of the central portion, but it is not as thickly inhabited. The origin of the name of the county I will here give you as I obtained it from an Indian trader and sutler in the army, nine years ago.
'From the Gales ville TranscHpt. The errors in this account by Mr. Gale will be sTifficieotly apparent to the reader from what has been said inpreviouschapters. We have not, therefore, attempted to correct them.
The Winnebago Indians at an early time, attempted to manufacture axes and arrow lieads out of the rocks near the mouth of Bad Ax river, but the rock being too soft the articles manufactured proved to be worthless. From that time the Indians applied the name of Bad Ax to the bluff, and also the river or creek near the point. The Winnebagoes called the creek Mar-she-rah-she-shiek Ne-shun-ugh-arah, which literally signifies Ax bad little river. Notoriety was given to the name by the battle that was fought with the Sacs and Foxes by the United States army in 3 83'2, two miles below the mouth of the Bad Ax creek. To perpetuate the memory of the battle, the State Legislature, at the organization of the county in 1S51 applied to it the name of Bad Ax, with the Webster spelling. Ax, without a terminating letter - e of some authors.
The village sites of Bad Ax city. Victory, DeSoto, and some other points on the Mississi|)])i river, had, for many years before the organization of the county, been occupied by Canadian Indian traders, who for many years weie supplied witli goods by Col. Dousnian, agent of the American Fur Company, but as their residence was temporary, they are not generally recognized as the first permanent settlers of tlie county. The last of these traders who occupied these points at the ingress of the American population, was John Verdon, (called Battise), at Bad Ax city ; Mr. Palwell, at Victory, and John Roberts, at DeSoto ; none of which are now lesiding in the county.
The first permanent American settlers, were Hiram Rice, Samuel Rice and John McCullock, who settlcii on Round Prairie, at what is now Liberty Pole, in the town of Bad Ax, in the summer of 1S4-3. In the year 1846 their number was increased by the addition of John Graham, Thos. J. DeFrees, Jacob, Johnson, John Harrison, Dr. Tinker and William C. .Mc- Michael. In 184'? Moses Decker settled the present site of Viroqua, and in 1848 John Warner settled at Warner's Landing. In 1847 and and the following years new settlers came in rapidly and now Bad Ax county contains a more numerous population than any county north of the Wisconsin river, excepting only, the county of La Crosse. The county is well watered by the Bad Ax and Coon rivers, running west into the Mississippi and the Kickapoo, running south through the whole county having its source in the county of Monroe.
The new county was organized by an act of the Legislature approved March 1st, 1851, and the first election for county officers was held on the first Tuesday of April of that year. At that election, Thomas J. DeFrees was elected county judge, Lorenzo A. Pierce, district attorney, William C. McMichael register of deeds, and Orrin Wisel, clerk of the court.
The first term of the circuit court. Hon. Wiram Knowlton, presiding, was held in the old log school house at Viroqua, on the third Monday in May, 1851. The second term of the court was held on the fourth Monday of November of the same year, at the same place, and by the same judge, at which latter term the writer attended as an attorney from La Crosse. This term beat the West for its rich scenes, many of which were so supremely ridiculous, that by common consent they never got into the papers. I doubt if any one will ever have the temerity to reduce them to writing.
The present county officers are Hon. J. E. Newell, county judge; C. j\l. Butt, Esq., district attorney ; William S. Purdy, clerk of the court; William H. Goode, sheriff ; J. M. Bennett, clerk of the board of supervisors ; James Lowrie, treasurer ; D. P. Allison, regis'er, and Charles Pitcher, coroner. 'hey are all very efficient officers, and are creditable to the county. At the general election last fall, William C. McMichael was elected to the Assembly from the district composed of the counties of Crawford and Bad Ax, and made an influential member of that body. Mr. McMichael has held some of the county offices nearly all the time since the organization of th6 county, and con-
The old log court house has now given place to a large commodious two story frame biiildinc, being the largest court house in the si-xth judicial district.
The land on which this village was laid out, was first settled upon and improved by Moses Decker, in the fall of 1847. The name was derived from the name of a young squaw found in a novel, but had no reference to any of the aborigines of this region of country. It was first laid out into village lots the 3d of Sept. 1852. A county addition was laid out the 1 3th of May, 1863.
Under the act of the 1st of March, 1851, the board of supervisors established the county seat at Viroqua, and subsequently, the question having been submitted to a vote of tlie electors of the whole county, this village was retained as the permanent capital of the county.
The village is located on the southeast quarter of section 31, and the southwest quarter of section 32, in township number 13, of range 4 west of the 4th principal meridian. It is distant thirty-six miles southeast from La Crosse, fortyseven miles northeast of Prairie du Chien and twenty miles east of the Mississippi river. It is situated in a pleasant grove nearly surrounded by prairies and upon high rolling land. As a healthy location it cannot be easily exceeded in the western country.
The village now contains a court house, jail, one bank, one postoflice, four dry goods and grocery stores, two blacksmith shops, two wagon shops, one cabinet shop, one steam grist mill, one school house, two churches, one harness shop, one boot and shoe shop, two hotels, one tailor, and several carpenter shops, five practicing lawyers, and two physicians, and a population of about 700 inhabitants. No spirituouiliquors sold in town.
This village is named after the distinguished discoverer of the Mississippi river, and is located principally on section 15, township 11, range 1 west, on the east bank of the Father of Waters. The village is divided into the upper and lower town, the latter of which is in Crawford county. The original owners of the soil in the lower town were Joseph and Michael Godfrey, Canadian French, who sold out in 1855 to Gustarus Cheney, who purchased it for the Boston Company. That company have now a store, grist mill, boarding house, and the best and most extensive steam saw mill I have noticed on the Mississippi river. It is run with three engines, and besides many single saws, it has two gangs of twenty saws each.
E. B. Houghton, Dr. Osgood and Dr. Powers purchased the upper town in 1854 and moved there in 1855. Dr. Osgood put up the first frame building in the spring of 1855. Dr. Houghton put up the second house very soon after - the same spring. The village was laid out in the summer of 1855, by Dr. E. B. Houghton as its proprietor. The upper town of De- Soto proper, contains two stores, two warehouses, postofBce, one steam saw mill, one three-story public house, called the Bay State House, kept by Mr. C. H.Allen, and a few shops. The landing on the Mississippi is good.
This town has been the river deposit of a large amount of wheat for shipment during the past winter and does considerable business with the south part of Bad Ax and north part of Crawford. It was originally called Winneshiek, after the Indian Chief of that name who died at Lansing Iowa about 1848. The population of the whole village is about 500 inhabitants.
Victory
This village is situated five miles above De- Soto, on the Mississippi river, and received its name from the victory which was obtained over the Indians at the battle of B.id Ax, which was fought only a mile below the village. Ira Stevens originally pre-empted the land in 1849, and entered it in 1850. He sold out part of his interest to Hon. William F. Terhune, John Ca-
George Gale, then of La Crosse, in the spring of 1853 purchased 105 acres of government land on the north side of the present village plat but sold it in 1854. for $1,000 cash, to Hon. John A. Rockwell, of Connecticut, who is the present proprietor thereof. The plat is located on the southeast quarter of section 28 township 1 -i, range 1 west.
The village has an excellent landing on the Mississippi, a postoffice, one store, one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one shoe shop, one school house and does considerable business as a shipping point of grain. It contains about 300 inhabitants. Judge Berry is now the principal projirietor.
l^ad A.K City, located on section 28, township 13, range 7 ; iiritl's Landing, onseclion 9, township 13, range 7 ; and Warner's Landing on section 4, township 13, range 7; all contain good landings on the Mississippi, and aie pointr of some business with the b.ack country.
The village was laid out in 1847, by John Graham, the proprietor. It derives it name from an enormous spring of water that comes out of the hill at that point. The water of the spring, alone, runs a grist mill a few rods below. This is a delightful little village of about 400 inhabitants, with the usual number of stores, shops, hotels, etc. Hon . James R. Savage is postmaster, and one of the principal proprietors, at this time, of the village.
The eastern part of Bad Ax county contains several villages of some importance, but your correspondent does not possess sufficient data to give them a proper notice at this time. The whole county is now rapidly recovering from the embarrassment of the bard times, and at no
Iii. From The Milwaukee Sentinel, Nov
[The writer names the county Minnesheik.] Minnesheik (Bad Ax) county lies on the Mississippi river, between the counties of La Crosse and Crawford, and also midway between the La Crosse and Milwaukee and Mississippi railroads. It comprises about twenty-seven townshijis of land, being over half a million of acres, a much larger area than either the counties of Rock or Walworth, and believe me, it contains just as good land as lies out of doors in the State of Wisconsin. I am well aware that, ill saying this, I am saying a good deal, and many will think it hard to believe.
I have seen something of the counties of Dane, Rock, Walworth, Dodge and others of the many " garden spots" in good old Wiscon- ; but, after all, there is not a county in the State that contains any better land than Minnesheik (Bad Ax). Probably one-third of this is prairie, fine, rolling prairie, the soil being a rich clayey vegelablt' mold. Another portion, say one-third, is oak-openings and ridges covered with oak under-growth or "grubs." In many places farms have been opened up, and the cultivation of the soil reveals tons a clayey loam, well adapted to wheat ; and on these broad ridges wheat does remarkably well.
The balance of the land in this county is timbered, and that pretty heavily. This is an advantage, as the timber is needed in other portions. The soil in the timber country is a rich clay loam, thoroughly impregnated with vegetable mold. When cleared of its timber, it produces as line wheat, corn, potatoes, etc., as can be raised. The roots of the trees run deep, allowing of the plow being run close to the stumps.
The recent ( Federal ) census developes a heavier population than had been anticipated, the number being about 11,000 (1 1,007). Five years ago the counties of Li Crosse and Bad Ax had each a little over 4,0(>0 people (Bad Ax,
4,823). Now, the former has 13,500 and the latter 11,500. Consiilerlug the absence of large towns, railroads, etc., coupled with its bad name, I think Bad Ax, or Minnesheik, has done well. Large portions of the inhabitants are from Ohio and the New England States, though in some parts there is a good sprinkling of Norwegians.
The great crop now is wheat, though the raising of stock is being taken hold of. There is not a finer region in the world for mixed husbandry ; grain, cattle, horses, hogs and sheep, cannot do otherwise than well here ; and I will venture the opinion that the hill sides and northern slopes of this county will yet become noted for their fruit, as well as for their sheep and cattle. The fine corn raised, of course, will tell you that before long pork will form a leading article of export.
For the year 1860 the surplus wheat of this county must amount to not less than 1,000,000 bushels. By some, it is estimated at a much higher figure. How to get rid of this is the main question now. Go in what direction you will, it takes from thirty-five to fifty miles of teaming to get to markets. The people, in thinking of this, are led to inquire if their condition cannot be bettered. Thev ask "why cannot we have railroad facilities?" Their homes are between what is to be the terminus of Minnesota's railroad system at La Crosse, and the roads at the southeast. The people begin to see that it will be of some advantage to them to have a railroad from La Crosse to a f.ivorable point of junction on the Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad. They see that such a road would not only give them an ouilet southcastwardly for their produce, but that it would carry through their county a large stream of travel, and that thus their many advantages would become known to the world about them ; their property would become enhanced in value and their position be one of importance in the State.
If Minnesheik county will be but true to herself, she can soon rank second to no county in point of wealth and population (I except, of course, Milwaukee), for she has elements within her limits to make her such, if she will but develope them ; and I believe if she will take the initiatory steps, capital will be induced to take hold and help her. She must, however, show others that she has confidence in herself.
There is, in Minnesheik county, an abundance of water power, which, taken in connection with its fine timber, will give it a front rank as a locality favorable to manufactures of wliatever nature, as well as for the purpose of flouiing her vast crop of wheat.
Being on the liighway between important systems of railway, a liberal charter for a railroad was procured nearly two years ago. A company has been organized under this charter, which now proposes to survey the road and prosecute the work of its construction. It was proposed at first to build the southern half of the road from Viroqua to some point on the Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad at or near Muscoda. This road constructed will provea very important feeder to the Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad, giving it the business which now goes down the Mississippi or over the La Crosse road.
Will not the Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad interests see their interests in this matter and help in this work ? If some outside help were to be furnished it is believed the counties of Richland and Minnesheik (Bad Ax) will take hold manfully and help to push the road along. That this road will ultimately be constructed there is but little doubt. The country througli which it is to pass, needs it. Can Milwaukee help secure this trade to herself ? Will she do it ? Or, shall it be left to Chicago to furnish the necessary capital to develope this country, and thus, by affinity, secure this business to herself ? These are matters worthy of the earnest consideration of the business men of Milwaukee,
Viroqna, the county seat of Vernon Co., Wis., is pleasantly situated in the geographical center of the county, near the head waters of the Bad Ax and Kickapoo rivers. The nearest shipping points on the Mississippi river are De Soto and Victory, thirty miles west. The location is about equal distances from La Crosse, Sparta and Bo.scobel. Tlie town is beautifully located at a point where the timber handsomely opens into prairie on either side, as if designed by the creator for a thriving, healthy and populous city. The private dwellings are mostly very neat and tasty in design, and would not discredit the taste of places of much larger pretensions.
A fine public school building has been erected, large and commodious, possessing architectural beauty and attractions. Two very line church edifices, with lofty spires, convince the stranger that a high sense of moral feeling pervades the community. The only thing that mars the beauty of tiie place is the court house. Nothing inspires an attractive feeling or an appreciation of the public spirit of a t'twn more than the beauty and taste displayed in her public buildings. But we are sorry to say in this the Vii-oquians are somewhat deficient as can easily be tested by a look at the present court house and hall of justice.
The Vernon County Censor, a lively, first-class paper, edited by Priest & Nelson, is printed here, and we are pleased lo note its usefulness and general circulation. Judge Terhune and Judge Graham are among the first lawyers of the place, and are looked upon as possessing legal talent not inferior to any in the State. Among her mercantile establishments we find J. Henry Tate, who, for the past few years has been doing a fine business; but hops and other speculations compelled him to go into bankruptcy. By the assistance of friends he has again commenced business, and hopes in a few years to regain what he has lost.
Dr. Ely, surgeon dentist, is a man of science, and understands his profession, and withal possessing a fair amount of good nature, and has an extensive practice.
S. C. Lincoln is the worthy P. M., which according to Nasby, means postmaster; and as s ime have hinted has a faint resemblance of the original.
John R. Casson, the gentlemanly clerk of the l)oard of supervisors, and George W. Griffin, the county recorder, are among the leading men of the town.
Several years ago a terrible hurricane swept through the village and destroyed a great portion of it. Although many new buildings have since been erected, still traces are to be seen of the devastation and desolation occurring at that eventful period.
Many things we would like to mention in these few jottings, but time and space will not permit, and we shall pass on to Ijiberty Pole, five miles in a southwesterly direction from Viroqua. It is a small post village located on Round Prairie, one ol' the most feitile gardens of Vernon county.
The agricultural resources of the surrounding country are probably unsurpassed in the State. There is a broad belt of excellent timber skirting the prairie on the south and east. Good stone for building purposes is abundant. The general surface of the country is gently undulating, with no lands either too hilly or too level for farming. The soil is a sandy loam, and is well adapted to the different cereals, grapes, etc. What was but a few years ago an unbroken wilderness, now presents to the eye of the beholder pleasant thoroughfares, wellfenced and highly cultivated farms, nice, comfortable dwellings, and a busy and industrious class of people.
At the "Pole," stores, machine-shops and artisans of different kinds are open for business; and a lively trade is carried on at this point throughout the year.
Williams & Rogers, dealers in dry goods, groceries, crockery, boots, shoes, etc., are doinj; a good business, and have a fine stock and well selected for the present wants of the community. Courteous, attentive and wide-awake, they are bound to succeed.
H. A.Owens, dealer in dry goods, groceries, has also a fine stock, and is doing a good business. He also keeps a good hotel, is active and attentive, and makes everything pleasant and agreeable for his guests.
William Crume is the principal blacksmith and Peter Jacobson cabinet maker. Dr. De Lap, a young man of talent and ability, has recently located here. Andrew Henry, stage proprietor, runs a line of stages to De Soto once a week, arriving on Wednesdays and leaving the same day. Passengers are conveyed to all points in the country.
One mile south, on the road leading to Prairie du Chien, is a natural curiosity known as "Monument Rock." This huge mass of grey limestone rising above the level of the prairie to a height of sixty or seventy feet, it is impossible to pass within sight of without being attracted by its singular appearance. From the base to the top its seems gradually crumbling away under the influence of various causes, and this unequal decomposing gives rise to a great variety of interesting forms, and presents a singularly picturesque character, having the appearance of some lofty watch-tower, or a castellated form like the half ruined wall of some ancient fortified city. This lofty pile has withstood the storms of centuries; and from its weather-beaten crest, one would imagine ages have rolled over it, and still it stands a silent monument of the past to guide travelers, and a land-mark to the inhabitants in all the region round about.
The people have all the comforts and business common to an older and more densely settled country. They are intelligent, enterprising and hospitable, just such communities as our western domain needs to be populated with.
July, 1870
This portion of the west is popularly supposed to be a prairie country, but the visitor from the east wlio should land here (La Crosse), and ride from this city to Viroqua by the way of Morman Cooley and Coon valley, expecting to find a prairie country, would think he had mistaken his location and by some legerdemain had been transported to the Adirondack region of New- York, or to the Green Mountains of Vermont. But he would be easily reconciled to the disappointment, for the beauty of the scenery excels that possible in any prairie country.
The road from this city (La Crosse) to Morman Cooley, four miles, is as uninteresting as a sandy prairie can be; but the moment you tui-n from the river bottoms and enter the broad bluff-bordered cooley, the scene changes to one of absorbing interest and enchanting beauty. The comfortable dwellings, the finely cultn-ated farms, lying in the valley and stretching far up the hillsides, the frequent groves of woodland, and the stream bordered with an abundant growth of vegetation, all combine to form a
Six or eight miles up the valley and you climb, on an excellent road, to the far summit of the bluff, and after a few miles of mingled woodland and clearing, descend into Coon valley, where a similar beautiful landscape meets the eye. The ascent and descent, slow but not difficult, abound in the most picturesque situations; and for beauty and sublimity combined, can fairly rank with many of the much admired mountain views in the east. This experience is repeated, until, at Springville, three miles this side of Viroqua, you strike the border of the rich, rolling prairies, which form a large portion of the surface of Vernon county.
Viroqua, the county seat of Vernon county, sits on the crest of one of the undulating swells of the prairie, and is pleasant with the abundant shade of natural trees. It suffers from the lack of running water, but, being the county seat of so large and productive a country, its prosperous future is assured, either witli or without railroad facilities.
Vi. By G. W. Nuzum And John E. Casson, 1875
(From TuthiU's History of Wisconsin.) Vernon county is situated in the western part of the State, between the forty-third and foi'tyfourth degrees of latitude ; its western border of twenty-two miles being watered by the Mississippi river. The soil is good and covered with a heavy growth of hard-wood timber, such as is usually found in timbered countries. The product of small grain is equal, per acre, to any part of the State ; and in vegetables it excels the prairie. The surface of the country is rolling, and in some places hilly, but all valuable for timber on such portions as cannot be cultivated. It is well watered by springs and brooks, and well adapted for grazing purposes, for which it will soon become noted. Like all timbered land, it is natural for grass ; and, having abundance of water, it will soon become the dairying ])ortion of the State. With an abundance of water-power furnished by the
Baraboo and Kickapoo rivers, and a superior quality of timber that could be used for the manufacture of furniture and agricultural implements, this part of Vernon county offers inducements equal to any part of the State.
The raising of stock has become a prominent feature with the husbandman, producing the best quality of grass-fed stock that finds its way to Milwaukee or Chicago markets. The first attempt to raise fruit was attenrled with Utile success. Many were disheartened and gave up, others persevered, and have met 'with success. We have a few " iron-clad " varieties of pears that do well. The first is the Haas ; next, Tetofsby and Duchess of Oldenburg. Some others have proved valuable. Of grapes, the Concord and Delaware have done nobly.
Among the principal settlements is Viroqua, a thriving village and the county seat. It has three churches, and one union school with three departments, which is well supported, botii as regards attendance and the interest manifested by the inhabitants. De Soto, Victory, and Geneva, on the Mississippi river, are the principal markets for the western portion of the county, and are also well supplied with schools and churches.
There are about 120 school houses in the county, mostly of wood, but some are built of stone or brick which are very fine structures. The one at Viroqua cost $14,000. Tiie average wages paid to male teachers, is $35, and female teachers $25 per month.
The population is about one-third Norwegian, one-half American and the balance German, The county is increasing fast in wealth and population. It is estimated that 2,000,000
VII. - BY W. F. TERHUNB, I8l8. ( From the Illustrated Historical Atlas of Wisconsin.) The territory of this county was set off from Crawford and christened Bad Ax county, comprising all that part of the present territory of Vernon, lying north of Crawford. On the same day, March 1, 1851, an amendatory act was passed assigning the county all that part of its present territory lying north of Richland county. Since that time there have been no territorial changes. In 1862 many of the inhabitants, imagining that its name was calculated to give a wrong impression outside, both as to its territory and people, tending to hinder immigration, petitioned the Legislature for a change of name. This was granted, and the county has since been known as Vernon. It lies on the east bank of the Mississippi, having the counties of La Crosse and Monroe on the north, parts of Richland, Sauk and Juneau on the east, and Crawford and a part of Richland on the south. Its area embraces about 820 square miles, or about twenty-three congressional townships, at present comprised in twenty-one civil towns. The population in 1860 numbered 11,007, which had increased to 21,- 5'i4 in the year 1875. The Baraboo and Kickapoo rivers, emptying into the Wisconsin, drain the eastern portion of. the county. The Mississippi and Bad Ax and Coon rivers, emptying into it, water and drain the western part. Abundant water-powers are numerous on all these streams, waiting for the arrival of enterprise and capital to be utilized and thus rendered available and profitable.
General Features
The surface of the county is broken and bluffy along the water courses ; elsewhere, undulating and favorable for tillage. Three beautiful prairies, named, respectively. Coon, Round and West Prairie, early attracted the attention of the pioneer and emigrant, and invited occupancy and cultivation in the first general settlement of western Wisconsin. The eastern portion of the county, from and including the valley of the Kickapoo and its tributaries, is heavily timbered with red and white oak, pine, soft and sugar maple, and the elm ; also with other less numerous varieties. The western portions of the county have the same varieties of timber, but in much less abundance, except along the Mississippi river, and upon some of its islands, where timber is found in larger quantity. The prairies above named, and extensive oak openings, interspersed with grass and thickets, mostly occupy the surface of the western portion.
Tlie surface formation is a deep, rich vegetable mold, forming a soil especially valuable on the prairies and in tlie valleys, resting upon a clay sub-soil of varied thickness, frequently very deep ; a formation in itself rich in the elements of vegetable life, and favorably constituted for the production of all the cereals and grasses adapted to this climate. This subformation is frequently intermixed with sand. Ihe underlying rock is chiefly the strata of the lower magnesian limestone. Underneath this the bluff ranges display the Potsdam sandstone, especially along the Mississippi and the Kickapoo, where it forms the principal portion of the elevation, capped by the magnesian. The principal water courses have eroded their channels through tlie limestone, and in many places, deep into the sandstone, which readily yields to their action. The county is regarded as one of the best agricultural districts in the western part of the State. The acreage of its principal productions in 1876 was: wheat, 49,080 ; oats, 22,463 ; corn, 17,045 ; barley, 3,370.
The great hindrance to a more rapid development of tills county has been, and is, the want of railroad facilities ; but these will doubtless be afforded in time. The present mode of communication with the outer world is by stage lines, which center at Viroqua and, diverging thence, traverse almost every part of the county. There are two lines of stages to La
Crosse, which, running alternate days from Viroqua, make a daily connection with that city. Stages three times a week to Sparta, De Soto, Prairie du Chien and Richland Center. A narrow-guage railroad is contemplated from La Crosse to Viroqua, which will doubtless he pushed through within a few years. Another is talked of up the valley of the Kickapoo, which, when completed, will open a market for the valuable timber and the great surplus of agricultural products of the county. With its abundant water-power, its forests and rich and luxurious soil, Vernon county may justly anticipate a bright future.
Baelt History
Upon the approach of civilization this region was in possession of the Winnebago Indians. Their title was extinguished by treaty of November, 1837, by which they ceded all their lands east of the Mississippi, and most of them were removed to Iowa prior to 1840. Before its settlement, the county was frequently traversed along an inland route called the Black river road, from Prairie du Chien to the jjineries on Black river, along the dividing ridge upon which Viroqua is situated, by men upon lumbering expeditions. Traders' cabins had been erected at Winneshiek, where De Soto now is; also on the sites of Victory and Genoa villages at a very early date.
In 1844 John McCuUough and the brothers, Samuel and Hiram Rice, made the first claims and erected the first cabins, within what are now the limits of the county, near Liberty Polo, in the present town of Franklin. These were soon followed by Henry Sifert and Anson G. Tainter, who settled near them. West Prairie was first settled by the brothers, Levi and Lee Grant Sterling, in 1845, who were not long after followed by Alexander Latshaw, James H. Bailey, A. Vance, Widow Clark and family, George Nichols and W^illiam S. Purdy. These formed the nucleus for the settlement of the town of Wheatland.
In 1846, Moses Decker, T. J. DeFrees and John Graham from Mineral Point, located - Decker on the site of Viroqua, DeFrees at the head of the DeFrees branch, on the Black river road, and Mr. Graham, at Springvile, where he commenced the erection of the first grist-mill. James Foster also came at the same time and located on Round prairie. These were soon followed by other settlers, among whom were Thomas Gillett, with his sons, William, Rufus, Jerome, Ransom P. and Abram ; also, Nicholas Vought, James Cook, George Dawson and J. Shields, all of whom took up claims near the site of Viroqua ; and by the brothers, William C, Samuel and Robert S. McMichael, Charles and Henry Waters, who settled at or near Springville.
About this time (1846) Ira Stevens located at Victory. Willard Spaulding built the first dwelling where the village of Genoa now stands, and Daniel Reed erected the first sawmill at Readstown, in the present town of Kickapoo, about the year 1849. Albert Field was one of the first settlers in the town of Hillsborough, in the year 1850 or 1851. A Mr. Gill first located on Coon Prairie. He was soon followed by a few enterprising Norwegians, among whom were Even Olson, 'J'orsten Olson, Gabriel Nelson, P. Peterson and Peter Oleson Brye, who were the pioneers of a class of citizens whose industry and perseverance have done much to Jevelope the resources of the county.
The early settlers were subject to all the Inconveniences and privations attending the establishment of new communities in remote sections of the country. They had at first to go to Prairie du Chien for provisions and supplies, and were obliged to perform a journey of 100 miles for that purpose.
The state of society then, though not cultured or fashionable, was far from being rude or unpleasant. A cordial feeling pervaded the little settlements. The settlers were always ready to assist each other, and always extended the hand of "welcome" to new arrivals. The "latch-string" was always outside the cabin door, and hos pitalily was a characteristic of all. These early settlers were not without their amusements, and social intercourse was not restrained by fashion or organization divided by distinctions.
The act which created Bad Ax county provided also for its organization, to take effect on the third Monday in May, 1851. An election was authorized to be held on the first Tuesday in April of that year, for town and county officers. The entire county was erected into one town, to remain such until the board of supervisors should see tit to divide it into three or more towns, and the persons who should be elected supei'visors, clerk, and treasurer for the town thus established were directed to act as county officers in a corresponding capacity. The first county officers chosen in accordance with these provisions were : Thomas J. DeFrees, county judge Orrin Wisel, clerk of the court and county board of supervisors ; John Lougly, county treasurer ; Jacob Higgins, register of deeds; Samuel McMichael, surveyor.
The first term of circuit court was held in a log school house at Viroqua, by Judge Wiram Knowlton, commencing on the third Monday of May, 1851, before whom the county officers elect were duly qualified, thus perfecting the organization.
County Seat
The act of 1851 provided that the county seat should be at such place as the board of supervisors should designate, until permanently located by vote of the people. Viroqua was thus designated, and became the permanent county seat, by vote of the people at an election held May 25, 1852, in pursuance of the laws of that year. A voting precinct was established at Round Prairie in 1847, by the commissioners of Crawford county, which was the only civil organization within its limits previous to 1851.
came to Viroqua in August, 1851, where he received the appointment of Orrin Wisel's deputy, and kept the records of the clerk of the circuit court and county clerk's offices. Soon after liim came Dr. H. G. Weeden, the first physician who located within its limits. Drs. Houghton and Osgood, from Boston, Mass., settled in De Soto in 1854, where they found three French traders, by the name of Godfrey. James Lawrence came about the same time, from England, and settled at Liberty Pole. Dr. Osgood built, in the fall of 1855, the first frame house in De Soto. Dr. Houghton opened a store there, and in the fall of 1855 Whiting & Valentine built and opened another. The fir!«t school in this section of the county was kept by Dr. Osgood's daughter, Eutli, now Mrs. Wait, of Viroqua. The largest immigration into the county took place in 1854 and 1855, the majority of the settlers being from Ohio. In 1845 a delegation of Mormons, looking for a future home, passed through the county, and cut out what is known as the Black river road, extending into La Crosse county, to what is known as Mormon coulee (ravine), where they settled for a short time. In 1849 Judge Purdy blazed a road to Port Andrew, on the Wisconsin river, having started with a companion from the Kickapoo river. The land was occupied in those early days under the "squatter sovereignty law."
The closing engagement of the Black Hawk war of 1831, known as the battle of Bad Ax, took place within the limits of Vernon county, a short distance below the mouth of Bad Ax river, on the banks of the Mississippi, where there empties into it a small stream, since known as Battle creek.
Schools And Churches
The district schools of this county, under the charge of O. B. Wyman, county superintendent, are in a very flourishing condition. There are 145 school houses, valued at ^45,000, and nearly all good, substantial buildings - each of the 145 districts of the county having one.
There are two high schools iu the county, one at Hillsborough, at present under the management of Mr. Setzenfand ; the other at Viroqua, Rev. William Houghton, principal. These schools have been only recently opened ; but they are already doing a good educational work in the county.
There are Congregational churches at De- Soto, Mt. Sterling, Bishop's corners and Viroqua ; Methodist, at De Soto, Red Mound, West Prairie, Liberty Pole, Mt. Sterling, Viroqua and Hillsborough ; Baptist, at De Soto, Harmony and Hillsborough ; Catholic, at Rising Sun ; Advent, at Liberty Pole ; Disciples, at Viroqua ; United Brethren, at Harmony ; and two Lutheran - (1.) the Norwegian Evangelical Lutiieran Church, on Coon Prairie, town of Viroqua, and (2.) the Northern Norwegian Evangelical Lutheran Church, on Coon Prairie, town of Christiana. The first has about 250 families, and church property valued at $25,000. The second has about 10 families, and church property valued $3,000.
Viroqua, the county seat, i& situated on the "divide" between the waters of the Kickapoo and the Mississippi, on sections 31 and 32, township 12 range 4 west. It is distantfrom Sparta, thirty miles ; from LaCrosse, thirty-five miles, and from Prairie du Chien forty-eight miles, and has about 600 inhabitants. It was incorporated by act of the Legislature approved March 31, 1866. The village was laid out in 1850, by Moses Decker, proprietor, and Samuel Mc- Michael, surveyor. Here was built the first frame dwelling in the county, by Messrs. Terhune and Ballard and here was opened the first school taught in the county, by Mrs. Margaret Terhune.* The school was started by subscription at a certain price per pupil, there being th«n no school-district organization. The village was visited in 1865 by a terrible tornado, which entirely wwept away the lower portion of the town, and in which a large number of lives were lost. It has now two hotels, three churches, a high school and graded district school, six stores, three wagon and blacksmith shops and one furniture manufactory. Its growth has been slow, but substantial, and its progress has scarcely equalled tbat of the surrounding country. The other villages in the county are Chaseburg, Hillsborough, DeSoto, Springville and Victory, all of which have made moderate but substantial progress.
The village of De Soto has the honor of being situated in portions of two counties, namely : the southwest corner of Vernon and the northwest corner of Crawford counties. Whether or not the boundaries were thus extended with the expectation that at some future day the village would expand to such immense magnitude that one county alone could not contain it, we are not informed.
At a remote period, when steamboats were looked upon by the dirty-faced ignoramuses of the forest as an evil spirit from the dark regions of the other world, which came forth to walk upon the water, and with its thundering voice awake the echoes of the valley, and disturb the slumbers of the little ignoramuses, commonly caled papooses, the place was called "Winneshiek Landing." This name, we presume, was bestowed in order to the better perpetuation of the memory of an antiquated Indian chief, who had undoubtedly, displayed much of the bravery so characteristic of his race, by murdering hundreds of white men and women,and knocking tiie bark off the trees with the heads of little innocent children as an after-dinner amusement. Tlie bones of this proud and haughty coppercolored individual .are, we are happy to announce, mouldering to dust on the summit of an adjacent bluff, and the name of the village was long since changed to De Soto, in honor of the the renowned voyager who first discovered the mighty Mississippi river.
The village of De Soto is beautifully located in a wide valley, with majestic bluffs towering toward the sky on the north and south sides. A spring branch of pure and sparkling water courses its way down through the valley. There are good roads leading into the country, and they are extensively traveled by those who do their marketing at this point. The village was laid out in the spring of 1854, by Dr. E. 13. Houghton, a former resident of Lansing, Iowa, who purchased the land from John Mobley. The first settlers were Dr. Houghton, J. Osgood, S. D. Powers, and C. B. Worth, the latter being theonly one of the first families now (1870) residing here.
At that time, the only building here was an old log cabin previously built by a French trader. This was called a hotel, and named the Winneshiek House. Here the pioneers boarded and spent their leisure time in playing euchre and other games for the hickory nuts. Capt. J. B. Wilcox built what could really be called the first house, in the fall of 1854. Mr. S. G. Wait now (1870) resides in the house Dr. Houghton opened the first store ; Capt. Worth the second ; and if the tales which are told ot those primitive days are to be believed, we are led to the conclusion that a more roystering, jolly lot of hardy pioneers never got together.
In 1855, other eastern people began to arrive, and new buildings were put up, and the place began to assume the appearance of a lively settlement. The principal steamboat landing was at Victory, where old Uncle Berry used to charge twenty cents a pound for mou'dy crackers, and fifty cents for storing a trunk a few hours ' in a building without siding, roof or floor.
The large steam saw mill built by S. N. Cate & Co., of Maine, was put up in 1858, and run until the fall of 1861, when the company failed. This mill furnished settlers building materials. Stores, dwellings, and warehouses were erected, and De Soto,in her prosperity became noted as an active business point. Like all new towns, there came a day when prosperity for a time ceased, and little or no advancement was made. But that time has passed and " progression" is now the watchword.
DeSoto is about equi-distant between Prairie du Cbien and LaCrosse. The principal business part of the town is in Vernon county, the county seat of which is Viroqua, twentyfive miles distant in the interior. A drive of about three miles over a tine valley road, brings you to a nice upland farming country, which contains many highly cultivated farms. Wood and water is abundant; and better facilities for making a good, comfortable home, cannot be found anywhere. Lansing, Iowa, is situated on the opposite side of the river, about four ' miles down stream, connections with which place are made during navigation, by a steam ferry-boat, and in the winter, nature supplies a bridge of ice for crossing.
Provenance
Text from History of Vernon County, Wisconsin, Together with Sketches of Its Towns, Villages and Townships, Educational, Civil, Military and Political History; Portraits of Prominent Persons, and Biographies of Representative Citizens; History of Wisconsin.., published 1884, in the public domain in the United States and digitised by the Internet Archive.