Chili directory, 1874

Nos. 17 to 24. The dangerous quadrant when a typhoon is travelling to the westward.

Nos. 9 to 16. The dangerous quadrant when a typhoon is recurving northwards.

Nos. 5 to 13. The dangerous quadrant when a typhoon is travelling north-eastward.

It will be observed that the most dangerous quarter in which a storm can be encountered is the leading quadrant of the right semicircle, for it 18 that in which a vessel cannot get farther away from the vortex by sailing on, so that she must either heave- to on the starboard tack^ or adopt the alter- native (in some cases the most judicious course to pursue) of crossing in front of the advancing storm ; in such a case it is obvious that no hard and fast rule can be laid down for guidance, but it could scarcely ever be advisable to attempt to cross the storm's path when more than two I)oints from its course, unless it were recurving rapidly.

When a storm is recurving the danger is further increased, together with the embarrassment of the navigator, if his ship be in the dangerous

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quadrant, and especially if she be in that part of it when it would appear equally hazardous either to run or to heave-to.*

When first entering the left semicircle the vessel is always in a position of safety, and may be run or hauled out of the storm on the port tack.

If the wind continues steady in one direction, with increasing violence and rapidly-falling barometer, it is evident that the ship is directly in the path of the storm's centre, which would pass over her ; in this case it is necessary to run before the wind.

It is essential to heave a ship to on the coming-up tack, so that as the wind veers she may head-up to the sea, whereas on the falling-off tack her broadside would be exposed to the seas breaking on board, and also to the danger of being taken aback. To prevent this she should be hove-to on the starboard tack in the right semicircle, and on the port tack in the left semicircle*

Under any circumstances, if a vessel encounter a typhoon, whether over- taken by it or sailing into it, it must be assumed that she is approaching the vortex, and the rate at which she is doing so will be approximately indicated by the fall of the barometer and the increasing strength of the wiird.

In the northern intertropical latitudes the recession of the south-eastern limb of the storm appears to be followed, not unfrequently, by strong squalls or gusts from S.E., which if mistaken for the regular action of the hurri- cane may occasion erroneous deductions as to the course of the storm.

It also occasionally happens that one storm is closely followed by a second ; it is sufficient to mention this to put the mariner on his

Preoautions. - ^If a vessel should happen to be sailing within the typhoon region during the typhoon season, and certain prognostics should appear which seemed to forbode a storm, prudence would require that she should be prepared for encountering a tempest of that nature, even though appearances, at first, might induce one to think that such would not eventually be the result ; for whether a mere ordinary gale or a hurricane should foUow, it must be admitted that during that season it is the wisest, as it is the safest, plan to be prepared to meet the worst. It must be recollected that Nature herself proclaims the warning, and her admonitions are not to be disregarded with impunity ; and the manner of acting in such a case of uncertainty will demand all the resources of mind of the

* For instance, with the h'ne of progression W.N.W. it would generally be wrong to scad with the wind N.E.^ but proper to do so if at N.N.E. This is one of those cases, the vessel being in the dangerous quadrant, in which the experienced seaman, after having given the theory his best attention, and made himself familiar with the law of storms, must follow the dictates of his own mature judgment, for the occasion ia one that will assuredly call forth the foil exercise of it.

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individnal commander^ especiaUj if placed for the first time in sach a

Without loss of time the ship should be made snug, hatches battened down, &c.y and when brought to the wind it should be under storm sails alone, unless she be on the verge of the typhoon and can sail out of it* It is considered exceedingly dangerous to remain under any kind of square canvas^ and even when obliged to scud it is preferable to do so under bare poles ; for although on the one hand it may seem advisable to carry top sail on account of the waves rising to so great a height that her way may become deadened in the trough of the sea and the ship pooped in consequence, on the other hand the probability of being taken aback by a Blufb of wind, when near the vortex, is so great that the danger of foundering would be imminent. The violence of the wind is often so great that boats and spars are literally blown away ; the length of the deck is not visible; the clouds descend and blend with the spoondrift; no sail can stand, and ships are frequently dismasted ; it becomes therefore the bounden duty of every ship-master to avoid if possible a typhoon at . sea, and it is in the highest degree unwise to risk, by hesitation or delay, being caught within the dominion of the storm.

Vessels running up the China sea will generally meet the left semicircle, with the wind between N.E. and N.W., a safe quarter of the stormy and are thus enabled to bear up and run to the southward till it has passed or ta sail round its eastern verge with a fair wind.

Vessels proceeding down the China sea are liable to encounter the northern verge of a typhoon, with the wind from S.E. to N.E., which is more or less in a position of danger.

A vessel from Hong Kong proceeding through the Bashee channel would in all probability be involved in the N.W. quadrant of a storm advancing westward, with the wind between East and North. This is a very dangerous position on account of the want of sea-room, the number of islands and shoals, and the absence of harbours within reach. A vessel entering the Bashee channel from the eastward would, if overtaken by a storm, be precisely in the same position, but if she first experienced the wind between S.W. and S.E. she would probably be herself overtaking a storm travelling westward, rather than meeting a typhoon recurving through the Bashee channel north-eastward, which is an uncommon occur- rence, but known to have happened once early in May and also in August.

In order to make use of a hurricane, the conditions under which it is encountered must be favourable. The vessel must be in one of those quadrants in which her distance from the vortex can be increased at

* Findlay's <* North Atlantic Memoir," chapter on hurricanes.

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pleasure, and with the wind either blowing fair for the prosecution of her voyage, or likely to veer so as to become fair. K therefore intending to make use]of the storm, it will be advisable to keep near its verge by running outwards from the centre with the wind quarterly, before wind and sea become too high, for if they attain any degree of violence it may be difficult to do so, or to regulate the vessel's speed exactly with that of the typhoon if both be travelling together on the same course; for in the latter case it might be necessary to carry some canvas, to prevent her being pooped, and this might drive her in advance of the vortex. It must be borne in. mind that the progress of typhoons is usually slow, about 8 miles an hour, consequently great caution is necessary, for if compelled to continue scudding a vessel would eventually be carried helplessly by the veering wind right across the path of the storm.

Prosnostloatloiui. - ^To be enabled to determine with certainty the approach of a typhoon would be exceedingly valuable, but it has been affirmed that they frequently commence without giving any precursory indications. When it is remembered that 24 hours before its arrival a typhoon is some 200 miles distant, it is obvious that the warning must be a short one under any circumstances, and if unheeded, it is not surprising if the mariner be overtaken unawares.* One can readily imagine that a typhoon travelling with great rapidity froin a remote locality, and travers- ing a region where settled weather was prevailing, might give little or no warning ; but if the storm itself be the result of atmospheric irregu- larity, extending over a considerable area, then it would reasonably be conjectured that signs of its occurrence would not be wanting. Experience rather seems to favour the latter supposition, as instanced by the fact that the untutored native boatmen of Hong Kong almost invariably anticipate the approach of a typhoon by 24 hours, and their prediction is seldom erroneous. Of the prognostications which have been observed, the following negative or affirmative indications may be found useful.

The clouds having a red aspect is not a certain warning of the approach of a typhoon ; for at the rising, but more particularly at the setting of the sun, the clouds, especially those opposite to it in settled weather, are sometimes tinged with a deep red colour by the reflected light. Neither is an irregular swell a good criterion to judge of their approach ; for near the coast of China a cross swell frequently prevails during

"We rode out two heavy typhoons during the month of July 1841. The first, which occurred on the 21st, in Macao outer roads, was preceded by calms, sultry weather, increased temperature, and by the barometer fedling gradually to 29*40 before the typhoon burst upon us ; its lowest was 28*80. The other, which occurred on the 26th, at Hong Kong, gave but little warning of its approach ; on this occasion the barometer

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ste&dj settled weather. A hazy atmosphere, preyenting land from being seen at great distances, is no un&voorable sign on the coast of China, for this is generally its state in medium or settled weather. A serene sky, with the horizon remarkably clear, should not be considered an indication of a continuance of favourable weather ; for a series of fine weather and calms, favouring an increase of heat above the mean temperature, is likely to be succeeded by a typhoon. When the horizon is very clear in some parts, and the summits of the hills or islands obscured by dense black clouds, there is some irregularity in the atmosphere, and stormy weather may be apprehended.

Other tokens by which these storms fu*e ushered in are an unusually high barometer accompanying a cloudless sky and sultry weather, with often a sensation of oppression. At other times the sky assumes the threatening aspect which generally precedes a great storm ; a greasy halo is observed round sun or moon ; the clouds are rolled or tufted in unusual forms and colours (a copper colour being a frequent precursor) with lurid streaks of light ; or a heavy bank is seen on the horizon attended with light- ning. The storm- wave which is frequently experienced at great distances beyond the limits of the storm is a certain indication ; and a conned and troubled agitation of the sea often precedes the storm, and always shows that it is at no great distance. In the northern part of the China sea, a low barometer for several days previous, an ugly threatening appearance, and heavy swell will give suflScient warning, and, provided it be taken, will either enable vessels to get sufficient sea room to avoid the centre of the storm, or give time to secure safe anchorage.

Barometrle Zndicatlons. - The barometer will be found an unerring indicator of the incidence of a typhoon, provided proper attention be paid to its monitions. As a general law, the following will be its movements during a storm : - Just previous to the commencement of the hurricane the mercury will generally rise above its ordinary level ; soon after it will begin to fall and the wind suddenly to rise, showing the storm has begun. The mercurial column then descends rapidly, gaining its lowest point as the vortex passes, and commencing to rise rapidly with the first shift of wind to the opposite quarter, again attaining the higher level, and then as suddenly falling to the mean height. These changes will only be thus experienced when a ship crosses the centre of the storm, but it will in- variably be found that according to the greater or less velocity with which she closes the vortex or increases her distance from it, in whatever quadrant, the barometer will fall or rise more or less rapidly, and the distance of the storm can be approximately estimated thex-eby. The barometer will sometimes sink two inches during a typhoon.

The aneroid barometer is of great value at such a time, especially at night, for it can be registered with great facility, and, being portable, may

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be watched constantly, when the marine barometer may not be accessible ; moreover its variations occur simultaneously with their causes, showing minute changes that ore concealed by the pumping of the quicksilver, in even the best constructed marine barometers, when the motion of the ship is very violent.

TTPBOOir BASBOUSS. - The following is a list of anchorages on the eastern coast of China where vessels will lie secure in a typhoon or veering gale*: - Tam-tu island ; Mirsbay; Ty-sami inlet (for 12 feet draught) ; Namoa island (abreast Stewart's house) ; Tongsang harbour ; Amoy harbour ; Quemoy island ; Makung harbour in the Pescadores islands ; Kelung and Tamsui harbours in Formosa ; Chinchew harbour (within the Boot sand) ; Hungwha sound ; Haetan strait, south entrance ; Pih-quan harbour ; Bullock harbour ; and in the Chusan archipelago, Ting-hai outer and inner harbours, Chinkeamun and Chin Keang harbours, Fisher or Chang-pih island, and Ta-outse on the north-west side of Kintang.

OAibBS sometimes blow steadily from E.N.E. or N.E. several days at a time, in September or October, near the south coast of China. In the same months they are liable to occur on the west coast of Luzon, where they mostly commence at north or N.W., and veer to West, S.W., or South, blowing strong from all these directions, with heavy rain, and a cross turbulent sea, but seldom continuing long.

Li the northern part of the China sea, fresh northerly gales of three or four days' duration sometimes occur in December or January, with high barometer and dirty weather.

Strong N.E. gales have beei> sometimes experienced on the coast of China during the S. W. monsoon ; in one of these a vessel, after making the Great Ladrone on July 16th, 1802, was driven by the 20th westward to the Mandarin's Cap, with strong gales, hard squalls, and the current setting from 1 to 2 knots per hour westward. The north-east wind con- tinued nine days, which obliged her to stand out to sea, and she did not arrive at Macao until the 26th.

In May, June, July, and August severe gales are at times experienced in the north-western part.of the China sea, particularly between lat. 14°N. and Hainan island, with the gulf of Tong King open. These gales generally begin at N.N.W. or N.W., and blow with violence out of the gulf, accompanied by dark weather and a deluge of rain ; from N.W. they veer to West and S.W., still blowing strong, and abate as they veer more southerly. When these N.W. gales are blowing in the vicinity of Hainan and the coast of Cochin China, strong S.W. or southerly gales generally prevail at the same time in the middle of the China sea.

* Also Canton river above Lintin (p. 89) ; Hong Kong harbour and anchorages in the vicinity, tee page 86,

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A violent S.W. squall or sharp gale of four hours' doration has been known to occur at Hong Kong in Januaiy^ causing great damage to the native craft, and foreign vessels to drive or lose their anchors. It was preceded bj incessant lightning for an hour or two.

From Hong Kong northward as far as the parallel of 30° N. moderate and fresh N.E. gales with rain are liable to occur up to June, but they are not generally so heavy as those which prevail during the monsoon.

Particulars of local gales are found in various parts of this work.

The principal currents of the region which this volume embr%c08 are the N.E. and S.W. monsoon drifts and the Japan stream. The two first alternate in the China sea with great regularity, and similarly, though in a lesser degree, on the northern coasts of China ; the last-named forma part of the system of the great oceanic currents.*

China sea during the N.E. monsoon runs generally south-westward, with a velocity depending on the strength of the wind. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate and light breezes, there is often little or no current.

In the western parts of the sea, along the coasts of Cochin China and the Malay peninsula, the current gen^^y begins to run to the south- ward about the middle of October (sometimes sooner on the former coast), and continues until April. During the month of March its. direction is constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with light easterly winds and calms at times. On the coast of Cochin China, and adjacent to Hainan island, a current varying from south to S.W. com- mences sometimes about the middle of September ; near the land, from decreases in proportion as it flows southward. During the prevalence of the N.E. monsoon, from about lat. 14^ N. to cape Padaran the current near the coast frequently runs 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles to the southward in 24 hours ; the rate, however, is variable, and it is only in the limits above mentioned that it is occasionally so strong, for its strength abates at cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the S.W., towards the entrance of the gulf of Siam.

On the southern coast of China the current during the N.E. monsoon runs almost constantly to the W.S.W., nearly parallel to the land, at a rate of 18 to 48 miles a day according to the strength of the wind, and sometimes, when a typhoon or a storm happens, its rapidity is greatly

* See Adminlty Atlas of Wind and Current Charts for the Pacific, Atlantic, and

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increased. At the distance of 60 or 90 miles from the coast it seldom nms so strong as near it ; and in 30 or 40 fathoms soundings there is much less current than in shoal water near the shore and amongst the islands. The westerly current sometimes slackens, and, contiguous to the land, the tidal streams prevail when 'not overcome by the force of the current, especially at springs.

Between Formosa and the China coast the current runs to the south- westwai'd at the rate of 1 to 2 knots an hour, according to the strength of the monsoon. On the west coast of Formosa, when light winds prevails the currei^t is often found setting to the northward. On the west coast of Luzon the current is changeable, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times northward. To the eastward of Formosa, about Botel Tobago island, it frequently runs strong to the northward and north- eastward, as early as the 1st of March ; and although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction during the S.W. monsoon, and in the opposite* direction during the N.E. monsoon.

cxntMBKTB in SOUTB-'WEST MOVSOOST. - ^In the China sea, at this season, they are changeable, their direction and velocity depending much upon local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they generally begin to set to the northward in the south and middle parts of the Sea, and continue to run in a north-easterly direction until September, while the S.W. monsoon is strong ; but they are not constant in this monsoon, for at times, when the wind is moderate or light, they are liable to change and set in various directions. After the strength of the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current running to the north-eastward in the open sea ; but sometimes its direction is to the

Along the coast of Cochin China, from Pulo Obi to cape Padaran, the current sets mostly to the E.N.E., paa-allel to the shore, from April to the middle of October ; and during the same period its direction is generally to the northward along the east coast of the Malay peninsula, from the entrance of Singapore strait to the gulf of Siam, To the northward of cape Padaran there is but little current in the S.W. monsoon near the Cochin China coast ; for, from thence to the gulf of Tong King, a small drain is sometimes found setting northward, at other times southward. When a gale happens to blow out of the latter gulf from the north-west and westward, the current at the same time sets generally to the south- west or southward in the vicinity of the Paracel islands and reefs, or where these gales are experienced; and this current running

* China Pilot, 4th edition, p. 10. The currents about Formosa and Luzon are more fully explained under the head of * Japan stream,' on page 20, and in other parts of the -work.

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obliqaely, ot contrary to the wind,- a turbulent and high sea ie thereby

On the soaihem coast of China the current ie mtioh goi^eraed by die "Wind : when strong S.W. winds prerail it runs along diore to the east- word^ but 'seldom strong. Near, and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there is generally a westerly current, oecasioned by the freshes &i}m Canton river, which set in that direction^ frequently sweeping along -the islands from Macao to St. John between W.S.W. and W.N.W., about 1 or 2 knots per hour. This westerly current is, howerer, not always constant in the S«W. monsoon, for it slacks at times ; then a weak tide may sometimes be experienced running eastward.

On the west coast of Luzon and Palawan the current generally sets northward in the S.W. monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and near these coasts it seldom runs strong. On the north coast of Luson there is also little or no current. The trade-drift of the Pacific is liable to set to the westward along its shores, and is probably accelerated at times hy strong N^, or easterly winds. Near the Bashee islands it sometimes sets eastward when strong westerly winds prevail; but generally strong to the northward, or between N.N.W. and N.E.

The strength of the current on the eastern coast of China increases with the freshness and duration of the monsoon, varying from one knot to as much as 3 and even 4 knots per hour ; and this requires to be especially guarded against when hove-to off a port or running for one in thick weather. Thus many vessels in the S.W. monsoon have run into Hu-i-tau bay instead of Amoy ; and again in the N.E. monsoon have picked themselves up off Red bay instead of Chapel island. The current will slack a little at particular times of tide, but during the survey of this coast in 1843 it was seldom found to inin to the southward in the southerly monsoon, or to this northward in the N.E. monsoon. At, and eastward of, the Pescadores islands, in the month of August, a current was sometimes experienced of 4 knots per hour, running to the north- ward, whilst with the ebb it slackened for two or three hours, but seldom ceased entirely. The same has been observed in May,

jJUPJkX STRaajo* - The great oceanic current which has its origin in the N.E. trade-drift of the North Pacific is now known to navigators as the Japan stream, as well as by its Japanese name, Kuro siwo.* The trade-drift, which flows to. the westward between the parallels of 9° and 20° N., on reaching the eastern shores of the Philipine islands, recurves to the northward, forming near the northern limit of that group the

* Literally black tide or stream, so called from its peculiar colour. It is also, but less generally, Imown as Kuro se gawa, -which signifies Black river.

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20 ^APAK STREAK. [chjlp.i.

oommenoement of the Japan atream. The maiu body of the current then flows along the east coast of Formosat and from that island pursues a north-easterly course through the chain of islands, lying between Formosi^ and Japan, sweeps along the sonth-eastem coasts of Japan, and continuing in the same general direction is known to reach the parallel of SOP N.

The limits and velocit j of the Japan stream are considerably influenced by the monsoons in the China sea, and by the prevailing winds of the corresponding seasons in the Yellow and Japan seas ; also by the Tarious drift currents which those periodic winds produce. These variations are exhibited on the Adminlty current chart,* which embodies, in a graphic form, all the most reliable information we possess.

In the N.E. monsoon the Paciflc trade-drift attains, at the commence- ment of the Japan stream, a breadth of 400 or 500 miles, between the northern extremity of Luzon and the meridian of 130^ E., and flows in a course between west and N.W. The western portion of this great body of water is pressed westward through the Bashee and Ballintang channeb, and joins the monsoon-drift or counter current of the coast of China, which is setting strong to the south-westward at this season into the China sea.

Near its origin the main body of the stream is contracted, and flows to the northward along the east coast of Formosa, being confined between that island and the Meiaco sima group with a width of nearly 200 miles, but northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, where its waters are constantly recurving to the east and south-eastf

On the south cape of Formosa the current splits, forming a branch which passes westward of that island, up through the Pescadores channel, and round the northern side of the island, north-eastward of which it again joins the Japan stream. This branch has not the same steady flow as the main stream east of Formosa, yet it is sufficient to nullify the opposing southern tidal stream of the coast, whilst it greatly accelerates the northern stream.:^

During the S.W. monsoon the Paciflc trade-drift off Luzon has a breatdh of only 150 miles, but is then augmented by a portion of the monsoon drift current from the China sea, which flows north-eastward through the Bashee and Ballintang channels at the rate of 40 miles a day ; the latter, however, has no permanency of character, for the current in this locality is often found setting to the north-westward. The remaining and larger portion of the monsoon drift from the China sea passes up through Formosa strait, and northward of Formosa is said to blend with the Japan

* See Admiralty Atlas : - Wind and Current Charts of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian

f For description of the Japan stream in more northern latitudes, see China Sea

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streamy for the limit of the latter lias been known to extend ai far west- ward as a line joining the island of Tsang^ming (off the CSUaa coast north-westward of Formosa) with Tsn sima in the Kcfnk elrait This western limit is yerj pereeptible^ both on aeeoont of the hif^ier tern* peratnre of the Japan stream, and from its waters being of a daA bine or black colonr, whilst that of ^e odder water is of apale green.

Another branch of the Ji^Mm stream flows throngh Korea strait into the Japan sea, passing the island of Tsn sima.

Along the borders of the stream, where it chafes against the coanter- cnrrents and torpid waters of the ocean, and along its margin near the shore where it meets with an opposing tide, races and tide-rips are whirls and eddies are produced bj islands and inequalities in its bed.

Weioeitjr, Temperatare. - The Japan stream increases in strength as it advances northward, but there are many fluctuations in its rate due to various local influences. The following is an approximation to the daily average rates in the different parts of its course :^

May to September. Oetober to April.

Bashee channel - East Coast of Formosa N.E. of Formosa - Coast of Japan

The current attains its maximum velocity south of Sikok and Kii no oo&ima, Japan, where it has been known to run 100 miles in 24 hours.

Northward of Formosa, in the summer season, the waters of the southern border of the current are constantly diverging to the eastward and south- eastward at a rate varying from 18 to 30 miles a day.

A mean temperature of this current from May to September is 82^, or 7^ higher than that of the ocean, due to latitude. The maximum is 86^, which differs 11^ or 12^ from that of the ocean. Its north-western edge is strongly marked by a sudden thermal change in the water of from 10** to 20^ ; but the south-eastern limit is less distinctly defined, there being a gradual thermal approximation of current and ocean as well as of the air.

In the months of April and October hot and cold belts are found alternating in the stream, the temperatures ef which vary from 7** to 10° ; whilst during the winter months, viz., from November to March, the mean temperature of the stream is 74°, which is about 4° higher than that of the

cavtioii. - -Although a general knowledge of the currents of these parts has been gained it is still imperfect in minor particulars. It should there- fore ever be borne in mind that these oceanic currents have to be regarded

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in a iwo^fold aspect, the soientific or theoretical, and .tbo practioal. .It is that it foUoira aa ahnoat nhderiating' track, -'VfUdiiiB not aUrajs ;oon«Ateiit with B0oordJ3d obaaryiatMms,. tha £aot being ibfii, from. whatev«e cauao^ the sur£aoe water, to the depth of aereral fieet ja cHen £i;»QidsflawiBg in. a different direetioa. Boft it is . these upper enrrents "wYusAk ohififly..a£Gdot a ship's oonrae, and therefore, great weight ou^ to be gix^en to.tho rematks of experienced navigators, even thongh they may be difficult to reoencil^ with theory. . The following instaacea m^jr suffice to iUocftmybe this : In August, .off the .coast of .China, in lat. 27 N., acocMrding. to liheory there should have been a strong northeriy curroit, but it waa. found .by obsenra- tion th^ there was an upper current IS feet in depth, astiiBg strongly to the southward. It is well known that a branch of the Kuro siwo passes up through Korea strait, but vessels crossing between Shanghai and Nagasaki frequently find no trace of it ; and in the vicinity of the islands southward of the gulf of Yedo, although the current may have been setting strongly dose up to them from the westward, and is found again directly eastward of them, even washing the coast, yet about the islands the current frequently disappears altogether, tidal streams only ^being

COAST Of OHIV^. - The tidal wave strikes upon, the eastern coast of China, from Hong Kong to the island of Chusan, nearly at the same period ; it being high water on full and change day? in the neighbourhood of the Lema islands at about 8h. 30m., and at the outer islands of the Chusan archipelago an hour later. The rise and fall,. however, increases considerably to the northward ; and in some instances the diurnal inequality is great. The establishment for Hong Kong and several other places along the coast are given in the text of this work, and also in the time table in the appendix.

Eastward of Hong Kong, as far as Breaker point, the tides are irregular and weak, and easily overcome by the drift current caused by the monsoon, but after passing Breaker point the coast trends more northerly^ and the floo^ stream is found useful to vessels bound to the northward. The rise and fall increases, passing from 7 feet at Namoa island to 12 feet at Tong- sang, and 20 feet at Amoy. Between Amoy and the river Min the rise of the tide varies from 16 to 18 feet at springs, and this causes the. flood to. enter on the north as well as on the south side of Hai-tan strait.

North of the Min the flood sets more determinately to the northward ; it seldom, however (unless off headlands or in naiTow channels), over- comes the current caused by the monsoon, although it has the effect of slackening it.

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bnt-ad^^parHevlftr IsBtructiDns' are giveni in the body of the wodk»itoiiIy X^ttoiiift hexe' to oftutioti tbe iumgator.that» as he approaches the ooaei to Hie wur^ynsid of Onisap, the tidai streama inenease greatly in rapditj, andi^QAt tihleas tiie preeautioa be taken of aeqniring a knowledge of their set and ydocitj, his vessel is liable to become entangled amongst the groups of this nigged archipelago. The tides attain an exoeptional and extreme veloeitf in Hang-chn bay, page 338.

> ^ko. - Tbe tidal wave stretches upon the outer islands of the ICorea at 8h. 30m., which is the same time it stiikes upon the outer inlands of the east coast of China. Thence it advances up the Yellow sea in the form of a tongue, reaching successively the Shantung peninsula at Ih., the JSdiau-tau ^oup at lOh., the Sha-lui-tien banks at 12h., and the heads of the gulfs of Pechili and Liautung at 4h. and 5h. ; but on all parts of the coasts which it passes, the time of high water is retarded from 1 to 3 hours, according to the breadth of the sea. The establishment for the entrance of the Yangtse kiang is noon, and it is only one hour later at Sang-tau bay at the south-eastern part of the Shantung peninsula, but in the great intervening bight of the coast to the westward it becomes fully 6h, later. The tidal streams are rotatory in the northern part of the Ci^usan archipelago, also off the Yangtse, where they are strong, and 130 miles northward of it, where they are weak. Around the Shantung promontory the tides are peculiar, and along its southern coast the flood stream sets to the westward* The rise and fall at springs off the Yangtse is 16 feet, atKyau-chan bay 12 feet, and at Shantung promontory 6 feet. The tides of the Yangtse estuary are fully described on page 350, those of the Chusan archipelago and Hangchu bay on pages 330 and 338, and those of the Shantung promontory on pages 459 and 460.

On the Korean coast there is a tidal phenomenon similar to that wl]^ch occurs in the English and Irish channels, viz., a point of maximum rise directly opposite where the rise is at a minimum. The place is Majori» banks harbour in lat. 36^° N., where the rise and fall is 30 feet, whilst at the Shantung promontory it is only 6 feet. The tidal streams on the west coast of Korea are very strong.

About VOBBKOSA. - The tidal wave fi:om tbe Pacific strikes upon the Philipines, the east coast of. Formosa, the Luchus, and the south coasts of Japan about the same time, viz., 6h., full and change ; on the west coast of Formosa from lOh. to lib., on the outer islands of the coast of China about 8h. 30m., and on the coast itself about noon. The flood stream enters the Bashee channel to the south-westward, and the ebb

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24k HAXING PASflULOSS* [oaAP.i.

flowf out to the norih-eastwardy and there is little doabt but thftt thqr both modify in some degree the set of the Japaii streexn and S.W. mcHiflooii drift current. This is espedalij the case daring springs, when the tidal streams both south and north of Fonnosa are very strong, and will probably account for the conflicting observations that have been made on various occasions, but which these opposing influences have rendered difficult <^

Along the west coast of Formosa the flood sets to the northward and the ebb to the southward, the former being accelerated and the latter retarded by the branch of the Japan stream.

On the northern coast of Formosa the flood sets westward and the ebb eastward, the eastern stream being almost constant from the same cause, but it always slackens on the flood, and occasionally changes, for between Kelung and Craig island the south-western stream has been found running 2 knots. There is no record of the tidal streams of the northern coast of Lu2on, but they are stated to be always weak ; this part is exposed to the influence of the Pacific drift-current, described on page 19, but even this current is said to be seldom strong near the land.

The tides of the west and north coasts of Formosa are more fully

There are three routes for sailing vessels making tbe passage from Singa- pore to Hong Kong against the N.E. monsoon, viz., tbe main route, the inner route by Cochin China, and the Palawan passage. Sailing vessels leaving Singapore for China in February, March, and part of April may expect a tedious, beating passage if they adopt the main route. In March, April, or May they can proceed by the inner passage along the coast of Cochin China, which is generally the most expeditious route in these

The passage to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luzon may be fol- lowed late in the S.W. monsoon ; also without much difficulty in October and November ; and it has been made even in December, January, and at every period of the N.E. monsoon.

It.was formerly the general custom for the clipper vessels employed in the opium trade between India and China to beat up the middle of the China sea in the strength of the N.E. monsoon, keeping as close to the western edges of the central reefs as possible, where the current was found to be generally in their favour. Many commanders who have been ac-

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customed to mrice their passages in that mj are strongly of opinion that it IB the best route for vesseb later in the season than the month of Norem* bfflr, whilst others who hare been accQstomed to proceed by the Palawan hare just as strong opinions in fayonr of that rente.* The following remarks of Mr. T. B. White, who was for many years in command of clipper Teasels engaged in ihe opium trade, appear to be exceedingly Taloabl^ '"mrningh as they furnish a balanced opinion on the respectiye advantages of the routes. He says : ** I am sorry I cannot say much from experience in beating up the Pakwan iu a sailing vessel, for during the entire period of my command of the Lanrick I never onclB went that way, but always ahmg the western edges of the shoals. I am, however, now quite certain that I should often have made much qni<^er passages and saved much wear and teu: by going up the Palawan. In the Fiery Crott^ although a powerful steamer, I found it ^:eferable to take the Palawan, and always did so during the strength of the N.E. monsoon (November to February), saving fuel and wear and tear ; and, though a longer route, made better passages by getting smooth water and often favourable currents. I believe nearly all heavily-laden ships now take the Palawan from October until the end of Febroary in preference to the main route, and a current to the north-east- ward is generally felt the nearer the Borneo coast is kept aboard, and usually the weather is moderate, with a rolling beam-sfrell on ; at least that has been my experience when going up in the steamer. Mr. Beynell, in the dipper Wdter-mtek^ usually took the Pedawan in ^e N.E. monsoon, and made some very good passt^s. Now that it is so thoroughly well surveyed, I consider it quite as safe as the main route."

The P. and O. Company's mail steamers, and other vessels of large steam power, steer direct for Hong Kong against the full strength of the monsoon. Vessels of smaller steam power may also at times, when the monsoon is not at its height, make the pas'sage in about 10 days, by passing west of the Anambas, where a smooth sea may be expected, and then using sail and steam, and taking the best advantage of the wind according to its changes. But if constant foul winds are met, it will be useless to attempt to steam against them.

Mr Main Soiite.^The following directions f from Singapore strait to the Natuna group apply with equal force to vessels bound either to

Staff-Commander J. W. Beed, B.N.

t Compiled by Staff-Commander J. W. King, B.K., chiefly from '* Sailing Directions between Singapore and the river Saigon,'' by Mr. A. J. Loftos, commanding the ship Kensinffttmf pnbliahed in the << Nautical Magazine," December 1862.

iSM ^Admiralty Charts : - China sea, southern portion, i^estem sheet, No. 2,660a ; also Flans of Tambelan islands. No. 361 ; Anamba islands, No. 1,371 ; Natuna islands,

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the gvlf of Siftin or Saigon, or tftUog the maia rout^ or Pakwan passegi;^

In December, Jaimaiy, iind Fehmary miling Ye8eel» ehoald. »Qt l^ye the entrance . of Singapore atmit in strong N.E. win48» but aAchor on the northern shore, under the Water ialandfl^.in QorlOfitboeiB* .In. those months gales often ocenr at new and fall moon ; the weathevis then thick, the rain lasting two or three days, and the current outside accelerated U> then, instead of fetching St. Barbe island, would fall bodily to lee:ward and have to work up the west coast of Borneo^ Fine weather follows, the wind backing round to North and.N.W., and the current in the oiSng decreasing in strength to about 1;^ knots.

Leave the Water islands with the first of the ebb and keep clean folL Stand to the north-eastward to go through the <diannel between Soubi island and the Great Natuna ; a passage that may without much difficulty be made, in these months especially, at full and change, when the wind, after a flaw hours' cahn, frequently hauls to the westward with squalls and rain, and then veers round to the S.W. and south, blewing modwately for about 24 hours.

continue easterly, take the starboard taok to the northward, paswng westward of Low island, keeping not less than 8 miles from its dout)^ western side, to avoid the shoal water extending 2 miles from its shoircu Give Haycock a berth of 3 or 4 miles, in passing, as the coral shoal «bout that island extends fully 3 miles from its south-west side. Lai^e ships should not pass eastward of Haycock at night, as the iocality.is said to have hidden danger.

After passing Haycock there will be no difficulty in working up to the soirt^-east point of the Great Natuna from the souttL-west, as that island obstructs the strong N.E. current of the monsoon. Off its eoulhem shore at night, in fine weather, the wind is off the land, but it should not be approached nearer than 2 or 3 mUes without a good breeze,, as the water is deep close inshore, and there is no good anchorage.

From this position the navigator, if intending to pursue his voyage by the main route, must be guided by circumstances, and the directions given in the second volume of the China Sea Directory ; but after arriving in the large space of open sea in the parallel of 12^ N., northward of the great mass of central reefs, it is advisable,. instead of beating to windward, to make to the eastward and work up the coast of Luzon as ^ as Fiedra point or cape Bojeador, so as to ensure fetching Hong Kong on th^ star* board tack. It should be borne in mind that there is always much danger in passing to windward of the Fratas, Faracelsy Scarborough| and other

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the reckoning is doubtful.

Sy »ax^wfttt :^assaffe. - If bound through the Palawan passage * the foregoing dSrectionff must he obs^rted a& far as the Natuna group.

the Koti passage, between Pulo Panjung and Sirhassen island. The Sir- bassen passage is also a good channel, and quite safe when the south side of Sirliasseii island is kept aboard. The currents among these islands are more regular ; but not so in the Api passage, where they set in various directions, and with great Telocity to the S.W. from 16 to 19 hours at a time ; for large ships any of the other passages are preferable to this, for great caution and perseverance are requisite in working through, as the Borneo coa^Jt^in from 10 to 11 fathoms water must be kept aboard to avoid the current, and profit by the land winds.t

In taking the Koti passage, give Pulo Panjung a good berth to avoid the dangexoua reef which surrounds it. The winds amongst these islands and as £kt eastward as the meridian of cape Sirik are generally from north

These passages cleared, proceed to the north-eastward, endeavouring, if not certain of the longitude, to make the Eoyal Charlotte or Louisa shoals, whichever is the weathermost, by running on its parallel of latitude ; and as the currents appear to be influenced by the prevailing winds, vessels should be prepared to anticipate a set in the direction in*

'*' iSSse Admiralty Chacts :*^ChiiiaSett, soathem portion, eastern sheet, No. d,660B. also Borneo, West coast, sheets 1 to 9. The directions for the Palawan pasnge are chiefly

f Navg. Lieutenant J. W. Reed, R.N., commanding H.M. surveying vessel B\fleman^ 1866, observes : - ^l^cst steam vessels (especially those of small power) proceediag to Ohma by the* Palawan passage agaonst the N JB. monsoon, the route by the Api passage and the coast of Borneo presents the followmg advantages :. first, light, variable winds andamooth water will often be found close to the Borneo coast, when a strong monsoon is blowing 100 miles off it; and next, the Api passage route affords convenient land- marks to lead a vessel safely and expeditiously to the entrance of the Palawan ; whereas by the ordbary roote mndi ^ffieulty and delay frequently occurs in making Low island and m pasmag between the Royal Charlotte and Louisa shoals.

"Steamers leaving Singapore should pass southward of Victory island, then steer to nght the small island of St. Pierre (carefully observing and allowing for the set of the current), and afterwards for the Api passage, keeping over towards Marundum island mAter ihtai Api point. Having passed Marundum and Data point, the coarse is dear lip to the entrance of the Palawan, pasE&ng between the soath Laeonia shoals and Barram pointy and keeping as close to the Borneo coast until abreast of that point as dream* stances may make convenient"

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28 MAEUXG PASSiaSS. CosAif. z.

whidi it is blowing, the Telocity of the carrent being prc^KMrtiimate to the force of the wind.

Haying made either the Bojal Charlotte or Louisa shoak,* or passing mid-channel between them, steer £. by N. 100 miles, and then about N.K. bearing about East^ southerly, and making like a rather flat-topped island with a small peak rising in the centre, and when about 40 miles distant from the island, the low hills may be seen on either side of the peak, haying at first the appearance of detached islands*

Haying brought Balabac peak to bear about E.S.E. at the aboye distance^ a N.N.E. } E. course should be steered, when the high land of Boolanhow will soon be discernible, bearing about N.E. by E. } E. This coarse should lead about 6 miles eastward of the reported Boger f breakers, 10 miles westward of the elbow of the bank, and midway between the Boyal Captain shoal and the edge of the bank of soundings skirting the island of PaUwan (the most dangerous part of the channel). When Boolanhow, the southern mountain of Palawan, bears S.E. by E. ^ E. the yessel will be in line with it and the Royal Captain shoal, and in the narrowest part of the channel, which is 27f miles wide, and the high land of Mantaleengahan will then bear E. ^ S.

If the wind be well to the southward, and the weather thick^ Balabac island may be approached nearer, in order to get well hold of the land, but extreme caution should be taken not to go within 12 miles of it, as soundings of 26 and 20 fathoms extend that distance oS, in a westerly direction firom the peak, haying shoal patches immediately inside them.

If the wind be to the westward, with thick cloudy weather, Balabac island should not be approached nearer than 36 miles, for these winds usually force a strong current through the straits to the eastward, and when off the south-west end of Palawan it is not unusual for them, par- ticularly in squalls, to yeer to W.N.W,, and sometimes N.W., blowing with great yiolence, and placing the yessel on a lee shore with respect to the shoals inside the edge of the bank. It generally so happens that about the time, September and October, when yessels adopt the Palawan route, this weather prey ails off the south-west end of Palawan, rendering it uncertain and difficult to hit the narrowest part of the channel, owing to the land being obscured, especially if neither the Royal Charlotte nor the Louisa shoal has been made, and the longitude corrected.

t See remarks concerning this doabtfUl shoal in yol. ii., page 271.

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-Under these circmnstanoes it iB adviaable to adnmce with cuitioo, T^paL* lAtfng the speed of the yeesel so as to be in the fairway, Yi&» lat. 8° N., long. 116° 15' E., for making the channel at daylight. Horsborgh reoom- close at nighty unless confident of the accnracy of the reckoning.

If not certain of the yessel's podtiony endeaTonr to get soiuidings on the edge of the bank to the north-west of Balabac island, and the safest part to approach for this purpose is that about the elbow, on the parsUel of 8^ dO" N:, or immediately to the southward of it, for it is believed the portion of the bank which is embraced by the bearings of Balabac peak, from danger. K the peak is obscured, the same bearings of the body of the island will, if taken with care, answer. Or should the north extreme of the island be discernible (showing like a hiUock, with a low double hill to the southward), the part of no danger wiU be included within the

During the period that H.M.S. RoyaHsi was engaged upon this surrey experience led to the belief that in the thickest weather the land is seldom totally obscured for any length of time, but generally shows a well-defined outline between the squaUs.

Having obtained soundings, which will be about 90 fathoms^ if close to the edge of the bank, and from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand, if inside, haul off to the north-westward, to give the edge a berth of about 10 miles, then steer the channel courso N.N.E. } E. When Boolanhow mountain bears eastward of E. by N. \ N., the elbow has .been passed, and the bank then trends N.E. by N. It is between the elbow and Half Moon, Boyal Captain, and Bombay shoals on the west, that the most dangerous part of the Palawan passage lies.

When Mantaleengahan mountain bears S.E. \ E., or the Pagoda cliff, which is generally seen when the more elevated land is obscured, S.E. \ S., the vessel will be on the line of the Bombay shoal, where the channel is 28 niiles broad.

Having passed the Bombay shoal, abreast of which the bank trends N.E. \ N., steer a courso parallel with its edge, preserving a distance of convenient, and the peaks on Palawan are sufficiently distinct to get good cross bearings. It is, however, not desirable to get too close, as the edge of the bank in about the parallels of 9^ SO' and l(f N. is not uniform in its outline, and several rocky patches lie within a mile, and in some places only 3 cables from the 100*fathoms line.

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This N.E. ^ N. course^ edging a little more to the northward y abreast of Ooloogan bay,* where the bank extends 28 miles from the si trill take a vessel through the passage clear of every known danger.

Vessels working through the Palawan passage, having conforms the directions given for making the 8ontb*west end of Palawan, slibul^ fine weather, endeavour to make their inahoice boards in the afternoon the son being then astern of the vessel, the patches lying aeai* edge of ihe bank will generally be distinguished from' the mast-heac ample time to tack of. In squally weather also, during heavy rains, ti patches have been observed, imparting a very distinct yellowish hu* the surface of the water.

It is almost nee^ess to remind the seaman (when the land is obscu: ot the desirableness of getting hold of the edge of the bank before d in order that he may have a good departure for the night ; and on mal his inshore board, it must also be borne in mind that the probabilit coming gtiddenly into soundings is great, as the approach on this tack generally be at ri^t angles to the edge of the bank. He should there be prepared to go round immediately on getting th^ first indicatioi soundings, whether by the lead or the appearance of the water.

Proceeding northwards from the Palawan passage, it is customary to 1 up the west coast of Luzon to cape Bolinao or Piedra point,']' and th< direct for Macao or Hong Kong, passing to leeward of the Pratas. Bu bound to any of the ports northward, much time may be saved by hugg the coast of Luzon and beating up through the Babuyan and Batan islai and along the eastern coast of Formosa, thereby avoiding the heavy lab wear, and loss of time experienced in the attempt to work against monsoon along the coast of China, which even the clippers sometimes fs in effecting.

In working along the Luzon % coast, particularly about dawn and siin less sea, and much lighter winds, will be experienced by hugging coast by short boards, and at times even land breezes may very m facilitate progress ; but in the attempt to render these available, g caution' should be observed, particularly between Piedra point and c

of refbge, to the northward of which are Jib-boom bay, port Barton, and Malam; sound. See also Adm'iralty Plans, Point Emergency to St. Paul bay. No. 2,912 ; s may be obtained.

Bolifiao of the old charts.

:|; See China Sea, northern portion, eastern sheet, No. 2,661 b; also, northern po of Luzon, with the Bashee and Ballintang channels^ No. 2,454 ; scale, (/s6*2 inc

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SojeadoTy as Beveral coast-line dangers do not find a place in tbe charts. £[.M.S. Samarang met with a dangerous patdi in the bay near Dile pointy being at the time 2\ milies off shore, with a church bearing E.SJB.

The first strong gust of the mdnsoon will be experienced on clearing cap^ Bojeador, but this should not induce the nayigfitor to stand farther -westward than will enable him to make his eastern stretch to weather it, i?rhen he will at once eicperience less wind. This generally is the case on aQ lee shores backed by mountains, either resulting from obstruction^ reaction, or the effect probably, after sunset, of counteracting land winds. Among the groups north of Luzon there are no dangers which are not easily aroided, and no continuous strong breezes will be experienced, at all comparable in force, or attended by high sea, similar to those which pre- vail between Piedra point and Hong Kong. On the contrary, good work- ing breezes and, at times, light winds prerail, enabling a sailing vessel of moderate speed to make about six degrees northing in eight days. When standing across for Hong Kong, should a northerly gale be encountered, which is not unusual about the close of the year, it is desirable to keep as far io the eastward as possible, so as to avoid falling to leeward of Hong Kong, for should a vessel be in that position when the gale abated she would be greatly embarrassed on the wind veering back to the north-east quarter, which is almost a certainty. It is also strongly recommended not to pass io windward of the Pratas shoal (jsee caution on page 208). lyphoons are likely to happen in both monsoons between the north coast of Luzon and Formosa from July to December inclusive, but sometimes as early as the beginning of May,*

S.W. monsoon the passage from Singapore to China by the Main route, eastward of Pulo Sapatu and over Macclesfield bank, is preferable, both on account of the sea being free from dangers and the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast. About full and change of the moon, and as early as April, a westerly breeze will sometimes be found blowing out of the gulf of Siam to carry a vessel to Macclesfield bank, and afterwards easterly winds to run her to Hong Kong.f

This route becomes precarious if a sailing vessel is not up with Pulo Sapatu early in October ; for near this island, about the middle of that month, strong southerly currents begin to prevail with light northerly winds, variable airs, and calms, by which many vessels have been delayed for several days, and have made no progress to the northward. Fresh

* One passed north-eastward through this channel in May 1S66. t See Admiralty Charts of China sea, southern portion, western sheet, No. 2,660 a ; and northern portion, western sheet, No. 2,661 a.

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windfl from the soutliward have been met with, even so late as Ut of 1^ ember, bat these instances are rare.

Some vessds proceeding by the Main route have carried strong S.' and soatherlj winds,* when others taking the Inner^ passage have at 1 same time experienced N.W. and westerly gales blowing out of the g of Tong Kingy with dark weather and rain, and have been in danger being driven among the Paracel reefs ; the Inner passage ought, howe^ to be chosen in the strength of the S.W. monsoon if the vessel is w( and making much water, for the sea will be smooth, and being near land she may reach an anchorage if required. The gales out of the | are not frequent, and the land may be kept in sight nearly all the time

Taking the Inner or Cochin China route, steer from Palo Aor al* the coast to the Redang islands, thence across the gulf of Siam, and al the coasts of Cambodia and Cochin China, keeping the latter aboard cape Touron. From thence steer for the 8outh*west part of Haii coasting along this island and passing between it and the Taya islai then cross over to make the coast of China about Tien-pak or Hai island. The islands from thence to Hong Kong may be coasted alon discretion, or shelter may be found amongst them on emergency. K route be taken before the middle of March or the 1st of April, the pas will be tedious unless the vessel is a good sailer.

Although Horsburg and others recommend the inner route, Comma Blake was of opinion it should be avoided, both on account of the chs being narrower and more dangerous, and from the risk of being carriei the current towards the north-west part of the Paracels, where se vessels have been lost on the shoals, owing to this and to the N.W. ^ blowing out of the Tongking gulf. Also, that in this monsoon, it w found very difficult, in the channel between the Paracels and Hainan, : weather be cloudy, and with the currents varying in force and dire< to keep the reckoning with sufficient precision to make a safe pa through it.

Bound to Hong Kong in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, witl wind steady between S.E. and S. W., endeavour to make the Great L«ad island bearing about north, then steer between it and the Kypong is] and between Lingting and the Lema islands, for the west Lamma chj After the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to p several days together, as they are more or less at all seasons, it w necessary to make the N.E. head of the Lema islands, and proceed the Lema channel, towards the west Lamma channel. The east X

t See Admiralty Chart, China, East coast, sheet 1, No. 3,213 ; also Birec

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chamiel is also safe in both monsoons, for if the wind falls light it is safe to anchor in, although the water is deep and there is little or no

BOVO KOVO to SZV0A90BB in the Worth-east Monsooii.* - Ships bound from China to Singapore, or to the Straits of Gaspar or Banka, should in March and April adopt the Main route by the Macclesfield bank, which is the most expeditious in these months, keeping to the eastward on leaving the China coast ; and also in passing Pulo Sapatu thej ought to borrow to the eastward towai'ds the shoals, where the winds are more favourable in these months than farther to the westward. In April the Vansitiart, hj keeping about 3 degrees more to the eastward than the Herefordshire^ made as much progress in one day as the latter did in ten. Hie distance from Hong Koug to Singapore by the main route is about

At all other times the Inner route by the coast of Cochin China seems preferable ; for it is the shorter, and the ease afforded to ships by steer* u^ from the Grand Ladrone immediately before the wind, when blowing strong at N.E., is a great advantage ; whereas by the Main route a S.S.E. course is shaped for the Macclesfield bank, often bringing the wind and sea before the beam, which strains a deeply-laden ship. Many have strained so much, that, in order to gain upon the pumps, they were forced to bear away for the Inner route ; others, by persevering in the Main route, have laboured excessively, and some of them at last foundered with their crews. Some of the ships which, after leaving China, have been missing, have probably suffered &om the same cause. Had those direct course for the Inner route, they probably would not have strained in the least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety. Besides a southerly current of 30 to 50 miles a day is found near Hainan, and between the parallels of 14° and 11° N. of 60 miles a day. After passing the Paracels, the Cochin China coast may be approached about the latitude of cape Yarela or the Pagoda, and thence a course steered for Pulo Sapatu or the Catwicks.

Vessels may, according to circumstances, pass either to the eastward or westward of the Catwick islands and Pulo Ceicer de Mer, or through any of the channels between them ; but since the Rawson shoal (vol. ii., page 80) is known to have no existence, it would seem advisable, in thick weather, to pass 20 or 30 miles eastward of Pulo Sapatu, especially at night. From thence, passing westward of the Charlotte bank and the Anamba islands, steer to make Pulo Aor.

Principally from Horsburgh.

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34 HAElNa PASSAGES. [chap.

Should the weather be thick, and a fi^sh breeze blowing, when nei Pulo Aor, round to under its lee, and wait a convenient time to bear i for the Btrait.* The current between this island and the east point Bintang sets about S.S.E., by which it often happens that yessels leavii Pulo Aor steer too much southerly, and are swept with the current andtl ebb tide coming out of the strait, so far to leeward of Bintang, that tb have been obliged to proceed round it, and come up through Bhio strait.

In March, during the latter part of this monsoon, the winds are Btea< from the eastward, the weather settled, and the current weak. In A{ the prevailing winds are also from the eastward, but are much ligh and accompanied with calms and squally weather ; from the latter end this month tp about the middle of May the monsoon gradually breaks u]

BOWO mama to SIWOAPOBB in the Soutli-west Monsoon

Captain Blake, of H.M.S. Larncj adding to his own experience tha< several commanders of the opium clippers, makes the following remarks " Although formerly considered impracticable, it is now a common pi tice for ships to work down the China sea at all periods of the S. monsoon. After leaving Hong Kong the usual course is to stand towa Hainan, which will be often fetched without tacking, as the wind : quently blows for days together fix)m the south-east or eastward in \ part of the China sea; and thence across the gulf of Tong King to Cochin China coast. Land and sea breezes and smooth water gener prevail close to that coast, for which reason it is usual to work dowi close to the shore as possible, taking advantage of every slant of w but being careful not to get too far off the land. It is sometimes posi to get as far to the southward as cape Padaran in this way, but gene: after passing cape Varela the monsoon is found blowing very fi with frequent hard squalls out of the gulf of Slam, rendering it impos for a ship to do much to windward. From cape Varela, or from Padaran if a vessel has been able to fetch it, stretch away to southward - maklng^a tack, if necessary, to weather the West Xioiid< other reefs - till the coast of Borneo is reached, along which, work pass out through any of the South Natuna channels. Stand aero Singapore, keeping well to the southward before closing Bintang, 1 sure of your landfall, as the currents run very strong, sometimes 2 an hour to the northward.

Captain Becher, R.N,, writes : - ** A ship leaving Macao bound t southward against the monsoon, should work down for the Ma<5cl< bank, keeping between the meridians of 116^ and 119^ E., and pre

* Since the establisliment of Horsbnrgh light, on Fedra Branca, there is real no difficulty in making Singapore strait at any time with proper attention.

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hj every change of wind in her tacks. Having passed the Paracels, she tronid continue to the southward, not making long boards to the westward on account of the strong northerly currents off the coast of Cochin China, which sometimes set 50 miles in 24 hours. This coast should not be sighted. After passing Pulo Sapatu she would make short tacks, avoiding the entrance of the gulf of Siam, whe«e light variable winds from the southward will be found. Sometimes, however, W.N.W. winds are to be had, and even N.W., but they are never of long duration. The Natunas may also be sighted to the southward, and then the channel taken between them and the Anambas.

'^ It is better in general to take this channel than to si^ht the Malacca coast and the island of Tioman, off which light southerly winds and calms are found, which oblige vessels to anchor, to prevent their being drifted to the northward by the current.

*' The passage may thus be made in ^about 33 days. At some periods, however, it is a passage not without great difficulties. In June, July, and August, for instance, a vessel of ordinary sailing qualities should not attempt it, unless she can start with fayoui*able winds on leaving the China coast, or unless compelled to do so from necessity. A vessel leaving China early may make a tolerable passage to Bengal by this route. But if bound to Bombay a vessel will have a long passage there in October and part of November. A vessel leaving China in May or June would probably reach Bombay as soon or even sooner by the eastern straits than by beating down the China sea to take those pf Malacca or Sunda.*'*

Bowo Kovo to MUkmXiA and back. - Vessels trading between Hong Kong or Macao and Manila continue to do so during both monsoons.f If bound to Manila in the N.E. monsoon, they pass through the Lema channel, and keep as far eastward as possible, making for the north-west coast of Luzon,' towards Fiedra point (cape Bolinao). At this season the current sets strongly to leeward, but is found to decrease as the vessel nears Xiuzon; Having reached the latitude of this cape, or the coast near it, the vessel should not be kept too close to the shore on account of the. outlying Bhohh, and having passed the Sisters, the course should lie about 6 to 12 miles from the land, till she is to the southward of the islands and dangers off cape Capones, whence she may continue along the coast for Manila bay.

If bound to Manila in the S.W. monsoon, take every possible advantage of the wind veering to S.E. or East to make southing. From the Maccles-

* " Nayigation of the Indian Ocean, China and Australian Seas," by A. B. Becher,,

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field bank a vessel is sure of reaching Manila ; indeed, if it were not f( the wind veering from S.W. to South and S.S.E. Manila might be fetche on one tack. If passing to windward of the Scai'borough shoal, caution necessary on account of the lee current. Making the land with the wii at South, Luban or Goat isli&nd should be sighted, and the land southwai of Manila bay. «

If returning from Manila in the N.E. monsoon, keep the land as far ; Piedra point, and if the wind permit, stand across for the Leraa chann south of Hong Kong. But with N.£. or northerly winds, especially if tl vessel is not a good 6ailer, the coast should be kept as far north as ca Bojeador, before standing across for China.*

If returning from Manila in the S.W. monsoon, the course is direct f the Lema channel or Great Ladrone, making due allowance for the 1 current. According as the wind, on approaching the coast, is S.W. indines east, so one of the more weatherly channels between these islan should be entered.

Bova Kowo to MAOAOd - ^It is usual to procccd by the Cap-sii mun pass, this route affording a smooth water passage, but it is not 1 shortest, and the tide is sometimes found too strong in the pass for vess of small steam power to stem. To take the shortest route, pass ing Green island, and steer for the north point of Chung island, and pass betw it and Lantao. In the middle of this channel there is a large rock, le with high water, and visible as it is approached. The vessel should i between this rock and Chung, the least water being 6 fathoms. Afterwf take the channel between High Green and Lantao, keeping in the mic of it in 7 fathoms. Beyond this the chart is sufficient guide. .

PASSAOB BAST of l"0&MOSA.t - When bound from Hong Kod^ Fu-chaji fu, Ning-po, Shanghai, or the ports of Japan, during the J monsoon, a vessel should be in good condition for contending with ro weather and for carrying sail. The best plan appears to be to ^ along the coast as far as Breaker point,t and then stretch across to

* See Caution on passing the Pratas shoal, on page 2208, also remarks on m: Hong Kong on page 31.

- f See Admiralty Chart :^China, from Hong Kong to gulf of Liautung, No. 1 J Towards the close of the N.E. monsoon, and still later, it -would seem pref to cross oyer towards Luzon rather than beat up to Breaker point against fresh breezes, as the following remarks of Captain David W. Stephens, of the Britisl: Harkaway, tend to show: - "Ships from Hong Kong, bound through the Bashee < of the other channels between Formosa and Luzon, from, March to June inclosn more particularly in March and April, during brisk north-east winds and a i

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south end of Formosa, and work up eastward of that island. By remain- ing in wii^ the coast of China she will have the advantage of the land wind at night, of smoother water, and the ebb tide out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her lee on the starboard tack, and in the event of its blowing too hard to make way, there are numerous convenient anchors^es. It will be prudent to keep within ten miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward by the monsoon drift whOst standing off the land ; but as this cannot be done at night without risk, a vessel should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the middle watch, when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will enable her to make a good board on the off-shore tack. By passing eastward of Formosa, the heavy short sea of Formosk strait will be avoided, as well as the constant set to the southward during this monsoon*

After rounding the south end of Formosa, off which there is generally a troublesome sea, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep within ihe influence of the Kuro siwo or Japan stream (page 20), which has sometimes _been found running northward at the rate of 30 or 40 miles per day.

This coast is not visited by the fall strength of the N.£. monsoon, which probably results from the mountainous character of the country preventing the breeze blowing home. - Sailing vessels^ however, expe- riencing strong gales at 20 miles to the eastward, might feel cautious in venturing inshore. Nor is there any necessity to run to leeward ; but if they should experience the breeze declining in strength, with less sea on Ihe western board, particularly between 9h. a.m. and 3h. p.m., or up to sunset, they will find it advantageous to hug the coast as far as may be deemed prudent ; but caution is requisite, for the coast is mountainous and flteep-to, and sudden loss of wind accompanied by inconvenient swell might be attended, if followed by calm, with imminent danger. Stronger breezes with much rain are met as a -vessel advances eastward during the

Others maintain that an off-shore course whilst passing Formosa is the better, but also admit that it causes much injury to sails and rigging, on account of the constant succession of bad weather, there being generally a double-reefed topsail breeze, and a heavy sea to encounter.

westerly current, frequently take a week beating along shore to reach Breaker point before standing off ; -whereas, if after clearing the Lema channel the vessels had stood off on a wind, clean full to the south-east, they would soon have got out of the westerly current, and on nearing Luzon would experience the wind more from the eastward and sometimes from south-east, enabling them to tack to the N«N.E. with a strong current in their favour, and thus would probably get to the eastward of Formosa in less time than it would have taken to reach Breaker point by keeping along the coast of

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88 MAKING PASSAGES. [chap.j

There are no harbours on the east coast of Formosa, except Sau-o ba towards the north end of the island, and deep water will be found clog to the land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea, thei sides in some places being cultivated. H.M. brig Plover anchored o an uneven bottom in Black Rock bay, the vessel swinging from 13 1 22 fathoms, and rode out a gale from the S.W. ; but it is by no means i be recommended.

Having weathered the north end. of Formosa, it will be still advisab to keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parall westward, she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able tide it through the southern part of the Chusan archipelago ; and disabled and in want of spars she can remain at the southern fide Duffield pass, and supply herself from the Fu-chow wood junks.

XOVO XOWO to BMAMOWLMkX in tbe «.a. Monsoon. - ^If bound frc Hong Kong to Amoy, or the ports between that place and the ri^ Min, a vessel will generally find a difficulty in getting round Breal point ;* for the tide here is of no use, and all there is to assist is t likelihood that the wind will draw off the land after midnight, when, being inshore, a good board can be made, and possibly the cape of Gc Hope reached. Hai-mun bay cannot be recommended, but still it woi be better to anchor there than to be carried round the point. In t case, sl^ould West hill be obscured, if drawing less than 13 feet, run under the point, lower a boat, and let her find the sanken rock (page \A and then come in witli good way to windward of Parkyns rock, and sh up round the boat into Fort bay.

Having reached the cape of Good Hope, the fiood will assist a vessa round it, and the ebb out of the Han river will be a weather tide. In latter case, and not intending to go inside Namoa island, endeavour to along the south side of the island, where there is an eddy tide, and anc in South bay, should the weather prove too bad to proceed on. the fa Both tides will be found strong off Three Chimney point, and the same i be gaid of Jokako point, round which vessels should take the first of :fiood on the port tack.

Farther northward, about Bees island, the flood tide in strong vr\ causes an uneasy sea, which will distress a vessel much. Red and Ting l)ays will be found good stopping places ; and the latter should be prefer though at the loss of 2 or 3 miles, to anchoring in an exposed pos:

* Hee also commencement of last article and note thereon. It must be borne in that when north of Formosa a good passage can only be made by keeping near the i

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in the entrance to Amoy harbour ; as when the N.E. winds freshen oflT Jiere on the flood, thej- generally bring a mist in with them, which makes it difficult to find the entrance, and at the same time a vessel will have trouble to get out of the harbour against the tide.

To the northward of Amoy are Leeo-lu and Hu-i-tan bays, both of ^vvhicli a£&>rd good shelter. Chimmo bay is not so good, but with plenty of good ground tackle vessels may ride in it. The current in the monsoon overcomes the tide here ; ^d advantage must be taken of every slant of wind, bearing in mind that it is likely to draw off the land in the middle watch, and in th^ event of anchoring for shelter this is the time to start, should the wind moderate ; by waiting for daylight vessels lose their offing, and will have to make an off-shore board at a loss. The fogs are at times thick, but the lead is not a bad guide, its the soundings generally change from sand to mud as the shore is approached. There is also fair anchorage under Pyramid point, but not 80 good as that under the South Yit ; and if the vessel is looking up north or anything east of it, the ebb out of Meichen sound will be of

From the Lam-yit islands or the south end of Hai-tan strait to the White Dog islands is beyond doubt the most difficult part of the passage. For steamers Hai-tan strait affords the best route ; but sailing vessels should decidedly keep outside, and stretch over to the north-west coast of Formosa (page 248), where they are likely to get a -slant of wind, and the advantage of -a weather tide ; and as this portion of the coast has been surveyed, with attention to the soundings no vessel can come to any

Xtver miB to Cbnsan Arobtpelaflro. - ^North of the river Min the obb i6 generally a weather tide (unless the wind is far to the north), and vessels will get a' good lift out of the rrver, and of Ting-hai and Sam-sah bays. With the flood, the indraught into the latter will be sensibly felt as far out as Larne islet, and increases to 2 and 3 knots as the main is closed. As a general rule, tack for the inshore tide, when the moon is on the

Tung-ying island will be found a snug anchorage, and here the coast should be forsaken (unless the vessel is under 12 feet draught), and the deep water to the eastward kept in. The tide will afford but little assistance until the vessel arrives at the Chusan archipelago ; the flood causes an uneasy sea in the shallow water, while the ebb has too much southing in it, unless the wind is eastward of E.N.E. Nam-ki and Pih-ki-shan islands wilt afford good shelter.

On reaching the Chusan archipelago, take the Beak Head channel unless the tide is nearly done, in which case there is Harbour Rouse and the

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40 MAKING PASSAGES. [chjlp. i

Bonth side of Lnhwang island as anchorages under the lee ; and as thi first of the ebb runs to the northward through the Foto channels, the tid* through may be savedi and anchorage gained on the Ketau shore. FroD hence^ if bound to Ting-hai harbour, contrive to arrive at the west en< of Tower Hill island about slack water ; otherwise in light winds the vessc is liable to be caiTied on to Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Black wall channel.

In working through the north par^ of the Chusan archipelago, as the 8€ of the ebb and flood trends nearly east and west, advantage can always l taken of the tide, and vessels may count on feeling the influence of the eb within an hour of the moon's meridian passage. When in the vicinity ( Gutzlafi* island, the first of the flood takes a direction to the. southward ( West, running into Hang-chu bay.

The eddy tide, generally speaking, will carry vessels clear of the lar£ islands ; but when they site approaching detached rocks great attentio is required to prevent being set in amongst them.

novo XOWO to pKAVfl«Al In tlie 8.1ir. Monsooii. - ^Whenthe S.Y monsoon is established on the coast of China, there is no difficulty i making this passage, but north of the Min it is often as late as May < June before it sets in, and north-east winds may be said to prevail nb months out of the twelve ; therefore as late as June and as early as Augi the passage is liable to be found tedious, as the following examples will sha five days (fresh and strong breezes with rain) ; East and S.E. two day and only 30 hours from S. W., veering to the west, with very fair weath< In the early part of June Commander J. Goodenough, R.N.,* on passa fix>m Hong Kong to Chusan, experienced a N.E. gale which lasted fl days. In August 1858, H.M.S. AcitBotiy occasionally towed by the Dt gunboat, took 14 days to make the passage, having north-easterly win for six days and south-westerly winds only five days. The S.W. bree: did not reach the parallel of 27° N., bat the N.E. winds blew fresh as south as 23° N. Inshore the winds were generally light and the smooth, but on standing far out from the coast strong N.E; winds w considerable sea were frequently met, the high swell appearing to indie a prevalence of those winds. In the offing also, contrary to gene experience, the current was found usually setting to the S. W., and on - occasion during a calm, 20 miles outside the Tae islands, its rate was i 3 knots. This current was found by observation to be a surface can 16 feet in depth. It is said that at this season the clippers and i

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steamers always make the passage along the knd ; the former can then find anchorage and take advantage of the tides.

In making this passive, therefore, it will be well to remember that between the parallels of 25° and 30° N., north-easterly winds prevail throughout the year, but alternate with cahnsy variables, and S.W. winds during the summer months.

SBAVOBJkZ to Howo xowo In tiie wjk Bioaaooiu - After passing the Saddles and Video it is recommended to steer a good off-shore course passing outside the outer islands, giving them a good berth by nighty and hauling in in the daytime to sight them if no astronomical observations can be obtained, for a continuance of thick, hazy, or rainy weather may always be expected, which renders it expedient to identify the land aa often as possible. The passage is reckoned to take from 3 to 5 days*

UKAVOHJkZ to HOWO XOWO In tbe S.'W. Blonaoon. - ^There wiU not be the same dif&culty in getting to the southward agunst the southerly monsoon as there is in going to the northward against the other, as it is not so peimanent in its direction, and land and sea breezes prevail ; the current has generally been found running strong to the northward in Formosa strait, but vessels are not liable to the same detention which they often experience in the northerly monsoon. Care, however, must be taken not to overshoot the port when fogs prevail, as they do in the early part of the season, rendering the navigation at times as harassing as in the N.E. monsoon ; they, however, generally lift in the vicinity of the land, and a ship's length from where the bowsprit can hardly be seen will carry her into sunshine.

serves : - " The chief difficulty to overcome in making the passage between the gulf of Pe-chUi and Hong Kong during the southerly monsoon is the strong easterly or north-easterly current. After passing the parallel of the Yang-tse kiang it will be advisable to keep near the China coast ; for although a vessel may lie up South or S. by E. on the starboard tack, it should be remembered that she is making little better than a »S.E. course in consequence of the easterly set. A stretch to the north-westward, though apparently a loss of ground, will ultimately prove useful.*^

H.M.S. Pique, in making this passage in July and August, was not favoured when close inshore by any land and sea breezes, nor had the least slant, but generally lost the wind. A weather tide was occasionally felt when near the shore in the Formosa channeL* See also directions, p. 129.

*Now called Pescadores channel. In the old charts and sailing directions, the channel next Formosa was called the Formosa channel, and that between China and the Pescadores, Pescadores channel, now changed to Formosa sttait.

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Although the conftant adverse current makes this a tedious passag against the monsoon, there is nothing to prevent a vessel of moderat sailing qualities making the passage at this season. The Pique ha seldom more than single-reefed topsails, and the sea was generall smooth ; she made the passage from the gulf of Pe-chili to Hong Eong i

VAsaMWS MMWi roxiiOSA STmAix. - If bound across Formoi strait from Amoy or Fuchau to the ports of Formosa, T^au, Tamsui, ai Eelung, or making the return voyage, sailing vessels will find considerab difficulty in making the passage at all times of the year; and the greate care will be requisite even in steam vessels, for the course is direct across strong variable and sometimes opposite currents. The greatc difficulty will be experienced at the change of the monsoon, when it is ] uncommon thing for a vessel to be set 30 or 40 miles northward or sout ward * during the night, and sometimes, though a less distance, to win ward against a strong breeze ; and should calms or alternating wii occur, as is frequent at the same season in the neighbourhood of i Pescadores, a vessel will be in sotne danger of being drifted amongst the When, however, the monsoon has fairly set in, an allowance of two kn an hour to leeward may be made, which will enable the navigator to k< a pretty accurate reckoning. But this rule would rather apply to southern and western parts of the strait ; for on the west coast of- Form the tidal streams are generally regular, at least at springs, and north-ei ward of the Pescadores the influence of the Japan stream is aln constant {see pages 20 and 248). It must also be borne in mind that nc of Formosa strait N.E. winds prevail during the greater part of the y and the accompanying drift current is liable to be met with even duj the summer months.

Xn the W.B. Monaoon. - If boundf from Amoy to Takau a coi should be steered for the Rover channel, making an allowance of knots an hour for current and leeway. In the Rover channel conoiparati smooth water will be found. If the same current be experienced on eastern side of the Pescadores, a good luff must be kept until Zealandia be made, or Ape hill, which is visible upwards of 30 mile clear weather, when the coafit may be run down in smooth water, thick weather the lead will give good warning.

If bound from Takau to Amoy, work up the Formosa coast so as able to stand through the Rover channel, hugging the shore on its i

* The directions for making these passages are chiefly from the Remark Bo

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side, from wliich a moderatelj good sailing vessel will be able to fetch Amoy easily.

zn tue 8^'W. Monsoon. - If bound from Amoy to Takau, it is strongly recommended to make ail the southing on the China coast by beating down 30 nules as far as Knob rock, or farther if the wind be light, which may easily be accomplished by a vessel of not very heavy draught tiding it close inshore. Then, standing off with a good luff will insure fetching Takau, and as the sea in the strait will be tolerably smooth, no damage need be apprehended from the heavy swell on the Formosa banks.

Vessels which on clearing the harbour have headed up S. by E. and S.S.E.^ and stood across at once, have only succeeded in fetching the Rover channel, after passing which it has taken from 10 to 14 days to beat down to Takau against the strong current which sweeps up the Formosa coast, at a short distance from the shore. Under such circumstances it will be better to keep as close in as possible, so as to take advantage of the tides.

If bound from Takau to Amoy, and the wind be light, a course about W, by N. should be steered until clear of the Pescadores, as calms are very prevalent about that group, and a ship is liable to be drifted amongst the islands and endangered, or otherwise compelled to anchor in deep water, for eastward of the group the northern stream, accelerated hy the Japan stream, runs sometimes at the rate of 4 knots an hour.

. ITAVOTSS XZJLVO to WJLaABAXX. - Steam vessels, or sailing vessels having a fair wind, should steer, from the entrance of the Yangtse, a <iourse to pass between the Meac sima (or Ass's Ears) and Pallas rock. The direct course from the Amherst rocks to Nagasaki is E. by N. easterly 390 miles, which leads midway between Pallas rocks and the Goto islands, but it is not considered a prudent course to steer, on account of the vessel having to pass across the branch of the Japan stream which sets through Korea strait, from which cause vessels have been carried over to, and even to the northward of, the south end of the Goto islands. During the season of the S.W. monsoon this current has generally been observed between the but its velocity has never been recorded as exceeding one knot per hour and sometimes, especially in the winter season, it has not been observed at all.*

There is no difficulty in making this passage, except when baffling winds and thick, rwny, and squally weather are met in the vicinity of the Meac

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ftim^ the Pallas rock, or the Goto islands, or when the two former hare to be passed on dark nights. When, therefore, the vessel's position is nnoertain, and the nights are not tolerably fine, it will be better to pass these islands or endeayour to make them in the daytime. '

Should the wind be to the eastward of North, when leaving the Tangtse, as is frequently the case in the season of the N.E. monsoon, it is advisable to make northing at once, for which purpose advantage may be taken of the tides (page 352). As the ship advances northward, the wind will usually draw round in that direction towai*ds N.W., which is the prevailing quarter of the wind in the Yellow sea ; allowance must also be made for the south-easterly set from the Yellow sea and Korea strait.

During the periodic easterly and south-easterly winds which prevail from March to June, every opportunity must be made to make easting or southing, even when a fair wind occurs, for it is sure to be of short duration, and the tendency of the prevailing wind being to keep a vessel on the starboard tack, there is always a probability, especially in May and June, when the current will be running north-eastward, of being saddled over towards the Korean archipelago.

During the N.E. or adverse moasoon, sailing vessels bound to China, instead of proceeding by the Palawan passage, sometimes take one of the eastern routes through the Moluccas, the Philipines, or the Pacific ocean, thus saving much wear and tear. There are two main routes. The fir%t ecLstern route is through Macassar strait and the Celebes and Sulu seas into the China sea, with an alternative route into the Pacific, south of Mindanao, instead of the Sulu sea. The second eastern route is east of Celebes, and by Pitt's passage and either Dampier or Gillolo strait into the

These routes are generally therefore adopted by vessels which reach the meridian of St. Paul island, in the Indian ocean, between the middle of September and the beginning of December.

It may be here mentioned that the N.E. monsoon of the China sea, which prevails from October to March, corresponds with the N.W. or Westerly monsoon eastward and north-eastward of Java, and with a Northerly monsoon in the Molucca passages. Also, that the S.W. mon- soon of the China sea corresponds with a S.E. or East monsoon in the former regions, and with a Southerly monsoon in the latter.f Further

* From Becher's Sailing Directions, pages 187 to 199. There is another passage to China, called the great eastern routes which, though rarely used, is described at the close of this section, page 50.

t See Wind charts of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceanf. 1872.

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particniars of the winds of the eastern passages are given in the Appendix^

OCTOBBS, WOVBBIBBB^ - ^nnt BMteni Bonte« - ^These are the two most feiYonrable months in which to pass the strait of Macassar quickly* In the other months it is more adyantageous to take Pitt's passage, especially from December to February.

On arriving at the eastern straits in the hitter part of January or February that of Lombok * is generally taken, crossing the chaxmel east of Pandita island, and. afterwards keeping the eastern side of the strait. The channel west of the island may be taken, but it is very narrow. From this ships pass to the eastward of Hastings island and little Pulo Laut, and the coast of Borneo, into Macassar strait.

From Alias strait a course should be steered to pass eastward of Hastings island, as if coming from Lombok. From Sapie strait, if in September and October, a ship would, according to the prevailing winds, pass east or west of the Postillions, and proceed to the north between Tana Keke and the Tonyn islands ; then pass at a good distance the isles and banks o£ Spermonde, which are north-west of Macassar bay ; and enter the strait, keeping on the Celebes coast whilst passing through.

Should Baly strait be chosen, ships after leaving it must steer to the northward and pass through Sapoedie strait east of Madura; then stand to the north-eastward at a good distance from the islands and banks of KaZkoon, and pass the little island of Pulo Laut on whichever side seems

Having passed Macassar f strait, a vessel making for the channel between Basilan and the west point of Mindanao must take care to keep well to the eastward, if the winds will permit, so that she may not be drifted among the Sulu islands by the westerly currents. If she does get to lee- ward of them, good channels will be found between the isles situated to the west of Sulu ; and then crossing the Sulo or Mindoro sea^ the west coasts of Mindanao, Negros, Panay, Mindoro, and Luzon must be kept. At the opening of the channel between Mindanao and Negros, and also, that between Panay and Mindoro, strong winds from N.E.,J and westerly

inches. Also, harbotirs and anchorages on Java coasts, No. 982 ; and Soerabaja, Baly»

-f See Admiralty Charts : - Macassar strait, north and south parts. No. 2,636 and

Also, Sola Archipelago, No. 2,576 ; and Basilan channel, No. 961 ; Sulo or Mindoro sea, eastern part. No. 2,578 ; St. Bernardino strait and adjacent islands, No. 2,577 ; and China Sea, northern portion, eastern sheet, No. 2,661 b. - X The N.E. trade-wind and drift eurrent of the Pacific.

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46 METEOEOLOaY - ^NAViaATION, [chap.i,

carrents are generally encountered ; it is necessary, therefore, to guard against these currents in passing from one island to another, so as not to be set to leeward.

If a ship leaves Basilan strait with steady Vinds from S.W. and South, she may either steer directly for the south point of Panay, or keep rather eastward of its meridian ; but if the winds are variable and uncertain she should keep close to Mindanao till point Galera is reached, and then cross over, taking care to keep near Negros island.

From thence steer northward along the west coast of Panay, taking every precaution against the dangers which lie to the westward. She may then -pass either east or west of the islands * lying southward of Mindoro, and enter Mindoro strait. If intending to take the channel east of the Apo shoal with easterly winds keep 2 or 3 leagues from the coast of Mindoro ; but with a westerly wind take care not to go more than 9 or 10 miles from the coast until north of the Apo banks, thus clearing Mindoro strait ; and after having doubled the promontory of Calavite, and passed Luban and Goat islands, the coast of Luzon must be followed up to cape Bolinao (Piedra point). Having reached this cape you may be pretty sure of passing westward of the Pratas, and fetching Macao, if not Hong !piong. But it is more prudent to make cape Bojeador before crossing for the coast of China. See also passage from Manila to Hong Kong on

AltematlTe Bonte flrom Celebes Sea.f - ^But after passing Macassar strdt, if not intending to pursue the route through the Sulu sea, a vessel may enter the Pacific between Celebes and Mindanao. To do so, if the wind permit, she will steer direct for the Sarangani islands off the' south extremity of the latter, pass on either side of them, and then with the wind atN.E. endeavour to fetch between the Meangis and Tulur islands, in order to double the north cape of Morty. But if unable to take so northerly a route, she ought to pass through Siao passage, a channel reputed safe and lying between Siao and Tagulanda, high islands to the north-east of Celebes, or through other of the neighbouring Sangir channels, and then continue eastward so as to double the North cape of Morty. Having entered the Pacific, pass westward of the Pellew islands, and afterwards, sail to the northward, so as to enter tibe China sea between Luzon and

t See Admiralty Chart, eastern part of the Celebes Sea, No. 2,575 ; Fhilipine islands, and Moluccas, No. 943 ; and Luzon, northern portion, with the Bashee and Ballintang;

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latter Lalf of December, January, and February it is better to proceed by Pitf s passage, and thence by Pitt, Gilloloy or Dampier strait into the Pacific ocean, than to take the route by Macassar strait.*

If, as often happens, a ship pass through Sunda strait instead of by the south coast of Java, she would make for the strait of Stdayer south of Celebes, and thence for Boeton strait ; or, if the wind be Westerly, pasa sooth of Boeton island, and between it and Wangi Wangi, and thence, if the wind be fresh and towards the north-west, towards XuUa Bessy (Soela Besi) island north of Bouro. This is an indispensable precaution for slow sailing yessels in December and the early pai*t of January, because about this period the wind becomes variable, and veers to N.N.W. with strong southern currents. The winds and currents in Pitt's passage are Ycry rariable, and it may be crossed anywhere ; it is prudent, however, when northerly winds prevail^ to keep the weather shore.

In case of falling to leeward of the north-west point of Bouro (Boero)^ every exertion should be made to pass it quickly. Instead of working to windward ix) do this, it is better to run southward of the island, and pass into Pitt strait to the eastward of it. During the N.W. monsoon vessels which leave Amboina make to the northward along the east coast of Bouro, where the winds are variable and squalls come off the landi and currents are rarely strong and sometimes favourable for the run north- wards ; while beyond Manipa and the channel which separates it from Geram, southerly currents prevail in this season. Having reached Pitt* s passive the navigator will be guided by the directions given below.

B J tbe straits Bast of Java. - If proceeding by either the strait of Baly, Lombok, Alias, or Sapie, make for that of Salayer, crossing the eastern part of the Java sea and then proceed as above. Coming from the Cape of Good Hope, Ombay strait is preferable, it being the most direct, and more open than those farther west, and the winds being generally less variable there^ Enter it from the southward of Sumba, and aftei-wards steer to pass westward of Bouro into Pitt's passage, steering East; but if this be impracticable, pasa eastward between it and Manipa as before directed. If no current be found westward of Bouro, then steer direct through Pitt strait ; but if it be found setting to the northward, keep off the islands which border the northern side of the strait.f

t See Admiralty Plans -. - Anchorages in Celebes, No, 981 j Anchorages in the

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My Bampler stnat. - - Dampier strait separates the northern groups of the Moluccas from New Guinea. The passage into the Pacific bj it seems favourable for good sailing vessels, especiallj in January and February, when northerly winds are getting more easterly ; but in March, when those winds become weaker, the Gillolo strait is to be preferred, for it is wider, and a ship can work to windward both night and day in it, and the currents are seldom very strong.

On leaving Pitt strait, and also that of Dampier, you must take great care not to be drifted on the north coast of New Guinea, and should therefore endeavour to round point Pigot closely, looking out i^harply for Buccleugh bank, which lies eastward of the east coast of Waygiou.

Pitt strait should only be taken when it cannot be avoided. In this case a ship should keep the middle of the channel to avoid being set to either side by the tides, and should therefore make short boards, not approaching either shore, and should try to make Jackson isle^ and pass 5 miles to the northward of it. When she has passed the reef which lies E. by N. from the eastern extremity of Batanta island she must steer northward for point Pigot.

To enter Dampier strait, on passing the meridian of the east point of Obie Major, steer east to pass between the Canary islands and Pulo Popa. Sometimes vessels pass between the Boe islands and Pulo Popa (this last channel being advantageous with north-westerly winds), and then run for Fisher island off cape Mabo, and from thence pass between^ Pigeon island and Foul island, and steer to sight Pigot point, so as not to be horsed on to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly swell which prevails in^the offing. The Buccleugh bank must be carefully avoided.

Tides In Bampier Strait. - The tides are very strong in Dampier strait, and the currents very irregular, their rates varying from 1 to 5 miles an hour. In the height of the N.W. monsoon, in the narrow pai-t of the strait between Pigeon isle and Foul isle, the ebb at springs runs 4 to 5 The flood sets S.W. for 3 or 4 hours, but is weak. During the height of the S.E. monsoon in this part the flood runs West for 8 or 10 hours at a time, and turns successively W.S.W., S.W., and S.W. by S. ; it then attains its greatest velocity, which at springs sometimes exceeds 5 miles an hour, and is reduced to 4 knots at neaps. The ebb at this season runs E.N.E. or N.E. ; it is not strong, nor of long duration.

Bampler Strait to cshlna. - On leaving Dampier strait, when a ship is in the Pacific, she should run down her easting quickly, keeping in a low latitude or between the parallels of 1° 30' and 3° N., which she can easily do, sometimes even in December and January. She will thus be

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enabled conveDientlj to pass either east or west of the Pelew islands, but this depends on the sailing powers of the ship and the strength of the NJS. monsoon. A vessel must not go far to the eastward for fear of falling in with the islands of Ngoli or Groulou and Yap or Ouap, near which, in November and December, heavy squalls from the westward are encountered. From the Pelew islands steer for the Bashee islands, allowing for the westerlj trade driil-current, which runs at the rate of 12 to 15* miles a day. From December to the middle of February it is more prudent to pass east of the Pelew islands.

Should a vessel leave Dampier strait towards the end of the N.E. mon- fioon, she should not run far east into the Pacific. At the end of February and in March ships can p&ss westward of the Pelew islands, as the winds at this time often vary and shift to E.N.E. When the north part of Luzon is reached the China sea can be entered by either the Bashee or Balling- tang channels. But at the commencement of the monsoon it is necessary to paa& north of the Bashee islands, approaching the coast of Formosa, and it is best with daylight and fine weather to pass between the South cape and Vele Bete rocks. During the night or in bad weather, if prevented from taking this route, a vessel should pass cbse north of the Bashee islands. Whichever may be the channel by which the China sea is entered, a course should be adopted to sight if possible Pedro Blanco, so as to be sufficiently to windward to take either the Tathong or Lema

ny cuuoio strait. - The wide strait west of Gillolo and north of Pitt passage is divided into two by the island of Geby, and the part between Geby and Gillolo is called Gillolo passage. The other part, between Geby snd Waygiou is Bougainville strait. AU the channels leading from Pitt's passage to Gilolo strait are free of danger ; but in the N.W. monsoon that between Pulo Gasses and Kekik island is preferable as being the widest, for the other broad channel between Pulo Pisangand the Boe islands is too much to leeward at this season. To enter Gillolo passage between Gasses andEle^k, sail closely round the southern point of Gasses, so as not to miss^ the channel by the drift of the easterly current which often prevails there. After passing either east or west of Pulo Gasses, continue on between cape Tabo and Geby island, and, if at night, give a good berth to Weda island. However, it ^is prudent, when the wind is light, to ^keep as dose as possible to the islands on the west side of the strait on account oftheN.E.and easterly currents. Should the winds be contrary, every endeavour should be made to get to the north of Geby as quickly as possible, afterwards passing southward between it and Gagy, and entering the Pacific by one of the channels near Syang. However, when it can

* According to the Adnuralty^current chart, it runs 18 to 30 miles a day, increasing to 24 to 42 near Luzon and Formosa.

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be done, the west channd between Gillolo and the Shanpee isles, or one of those comprised between these and Syang, is preferable, as with a northerly wind a ship would be able to pass to windward of Aiou and Asia islands. Should there be any difficulty in passmg west of Asia isles, the channel whidi is formed by them and Aiou can be adopted, or even between this latter and the north coast of Waygiou; Having gained the Pacific, en- deavour to make easting as quickly as possible between the parallels of V S(y and 3° N., taking care not to get north of the latter paraM ; and so attain the latter part of the route, above described, on to China.

OMMAT BASTSSW BOVTS to CHZBTA. - This route has been adopted with great success when the cape of Good Hope has been left in September.

From south of the Cape, a vessel should steer East, keeping between the parallels of 33*^ and 40° S., or thereabouts, as fer as the meridian of cape Leeuwin, Australia. From thence one of two routes may be taken; that south of Tasmania, or that by Bass strait.

The first was adopted by Captain Butter of the ship Walpole. He left the cape at the end of September ; on the 31st of October he sighted the south-west point of Tasmania ; on November 18th he sighted the island of Aneiteum, one of the new Hebrides ; he left these islands a little to the west, crossed the equator in long. 161^ 40' E. and crossed the archi- pelago of the Carolines. On December 21st he passed the Marianne islands ; on the 30th he entered the Bashee channel, and anchored at Macao on January 1st.

Thus the voyage lasted three months ; that is, it occupied only little more than the time that, without steam, is generally taken in making a passage by the direct route to China against the N.E. monsoon.

The passage by Bass strait was taken hj the Athenian in 1804. On the 1 1th of October she passed Amsterdam island ; entered Bass strait on the 28th of October ; passed west of New Caledonia and the Hebrides, and then between these latter and the Solomon isles. She crossed the line in 160° E. long., and sighted the cost of China on the 28th of December.

Although the latter route is somewhat shorter, it was the opinion of Krusenstem that the passage south of Tasmania is preferable. His opinion was founded on meeting westerly winds in high latitudes, and that by passing south of Tasmania, northerly winds and southerly currents, often met with at the entrance of Bass strait, are avoided.

In the S.W. Monsoon. The adverse voyage against the S.W. monsoon is best followed by adopting one of the ensuing routes, according to the time of departure from the ports of China.

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, iLPRXX. - ^By Palawan 9Mwave. - ^Yessels leaving the ooaat of Cbina or Manila, and bound towards Sunda strait, in March, April, or in the early part of Maj may expect a tedious passage down the China sea if proceeding bj the old route which passes Polo Sapatu, particnlarly if they do not sail before the 5th or 10th of April.

Whereas if the track be taken along the coast of Luzon, down the Pahi- wan passage, along the coast of Borneo, past Direction island, round Sorneton, and through the Carimata strait, passing close round the North Watcher, and on for St. Nicholas point in Java, they are likely to cany easterly winds, with fine weather, and a smooth sea the whole distance, thus making a direct course, and will avoid calms. The current will also be more &vourable than otherwise until May is well advanced.

In approaching Sunda strait the Java side should be steered for, and kept aboard in May, as then the winds are light, those from south-east prevailing at night, and from north-east during the day. This precantioa will prevent the vessel being carried by the current to the westward of the Button islet. This current runs constantly to the south-west in the middle of the strait ; it is checked by the short flood, but runs strong with a long ebb.

With reference to the above directions for making the passage from China, and to prove the advantages of this easterly route, it may be stated that, in April 1861, two American ships sailed from Fu-chau-fu ; one pro- ceeded by Fulo Sapatu on the west side of the China sea, the other by the Palawan passage and Carimata strait ; the latter ship passed Anjer twenty days before the other.

The Harkaway^* on her passage in April and May 1862, carried an easterly wind the whole way down, and had no occasion to anchor.

APSZK, MAT. - By tbe Suln and Celebes Seas.! - Quitting Hong Kong or the Canton river at the end of April or beginning of May for Mindoro strait, a ship should run as far south as the Macclesfield bank, if the wind allow, Bo as to fetch the north-west extreme of Mindoro without tacking in case of the wind shifting to S.W. From near the Macclesfield she should stand S.E., holding her wind if it is at all to the S.W. ; and should it not admit of her weathering Calavite point she should work along the coast of Luzon, where with variable winds she will come up to the N.W. extremity of Mindoro.

Captain David W. Stephens, who is the author of the foregoing directions, re- ceived through the Meteorological Department of the Board of Trade. See Admiralty ** China Sea Directory," VoL ii., Chapter I.

t From Becher's Sailing Directions. This is therein named the " First Eastern Route.'* The Admiralty Charts required are enumerated in the preceding section.

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The channel eastward of Apo bank should be chosen for passing Mindoro strait, giving the Mindoro coast a berth of some miles if the winds be variable, but if the S.W. wind be steady a berth of 9 or 10 nules is necessary ; she wiU then pass the islands of Ambolon and Ylin at a distance of about 15 miles.

Should the wind allow, the strait of Mmdoro may be crossed, passing west of the Apo bank in the Northumberland channel formed by this bank and the Calamianes. Then keep along the coast of Panay, working, if necessary, at some distance from this island, according to circumstances ; and the island of Quiniluban may be neared when passing the dry sand- bank between it and Panay.

Having reached the south cape of Panay, stand for Basilan strait, making it well to the southward and eastward should the wind be to the westward, but steering direct for it if the wind be easterly. The S.W. extreme of Mindanao being gained, it will be better to take Basilan strait than any of those formed by the Sulu islands to the south-west, it being the shortest route ; the Celebes sea will then be entered, and the ship will make for the strait of Macassar.

Instead of persevering in working against S.E. winds at the entrance of Basilan strait, it may be better to steer to the south-westward in order to pass west of the Sulu archipelago, between Unsang the east point of Borneo and Tawi-Tawi island. There are two small islands bearing S.S.E. of the south-west point of the latter, between which and Sibutu island, is a good channel leading du^ect into the Celebes sea. This channel is safe, and easy of navigation both by night and day, four hours sufficing to pass by it from sea to sea, while under similar circumstances it has sometimes occupied four days in going from one sea to the other by the strait of Basilan. The Sibutu passage however is not so easy of access as Basilan strait, for it has to be approached through a dangerous archipelago.

To leave the Celebes sea, take either the Macassar strait or the Molucca channel. Some navigators prefer the latter when the S.E. monsoon prevails north of the equator. In fact, it is difficult, without a tedious passage to windward, to reach Alias strait from the strait of Macassar ; while by taking the Molucca channel the S.E. monsoon is found in a latitude sufficiently to the eastward to enable you to take whichever eastern channel is preferred. But vessels bound to Batavia or Sunda strait will find Macassai' strait the better.

On leaving Basilan strait, if the easterly wind is well established, steer so as to make cape Dondo to the S.S.E. or South ; but most generally, from the winds veering westward near the north entrance of the strait, and the current setting eastw^ard, it is more prudent to keep as mucli to the westward as possible in order to sight point Kaniongan on the

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coast of Borneo. Off cape Rivers, the north-west point of Celebes, a ship is somedmes set to the eastward bj the current* along the north coast, and, after fruitless contest with it, is sometimes obliged to stand away eastward for the Molucca channel.

Having entered Macassar strait, keep along the west coast of Celebes, passing eastward of the Little Paternosters, and taking care of the Laurel reef north of ^he Noesa Siri islands when passing Pulo Laut on the Borneo side. Thence steer for Alias strait or one of the other straits leading into the Indian ocean. But if bound to Batavia or Sunda strait irom Macassar strait, if the wind "permit, steer so as to pass north of the littie Paternosters, and keep along the coast of Borneo, guarding against the dangers off it, as well inshore as to seaward. Then entering the Java sea, Batavia or Sunda strait can be reached without difficulty.

A ship taking this route, and meeting with contrary winds from Basilan strait, so as to be unable to reach Macassar strait, may take the Molucca passage, and should then steer for the islands near the N.E. end of Celebes; and passing between the islands of Banka and Bejaren, will clear the N.JS. point of Celebes, and then steer to the southward through the channel formed by Lisamatula, the eastern point of the Soela or XuUa islands, -and Obie Major, which is the most frequented ; or if the wind should not permit her reaching it, should take the Greyhound channel between the islands Albion and Hammond, west of Xulla Taliabo.

When it is found difficult to get to the southward in the Molucca channel, dull sailing vessels might try to do so by keeping near the west coast of Gillolo ; thence they might enter the strait of Patientie between Gillolo and Batchian, or the strait of Batchian formed by the island of same name and Tawally and Marigorang.

However, a ship having reached the northern extremity of Gillolo or Mortie in the height of the S.W. monsoon, should rather pass through Gillolo channel than that of the Moluccas, because it leads more directly to Pittf s passage, by which she can gain the eastern straits.

On leaving the] Molucca channel, the Timor strait or Ombay passage

may be adopted. The shortest route from Pitt's passage to the Indian

ocean during this season is then as follows. A ship should pass close by Obie

Major, in order easily to round the east coast of Bourou, and so pass

between Bourou and Manipa. She would then run to the southward into

*^e Banda sea, where the wind is generally E.S.E,; endeavour to pass east-

ard of Ombay, and having crossed the channel between Ombay and

Vctta, would follow the west coast of Timor, and enter the Indian ocean

etween Semao and Savu.

Captain Spratly.

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MAT* Jir&T. - By tlie Vaolflc Ocean. - ^This route, which is adopted from the middle of May to the end of July, lies by the Pacific Ocean east of the Philipines, and through Pitt's passage.

August is too late to take this route, and a ship obliged to leave the south of China then, should follow the coasts of Cochin China and Cam- bodia as before directed, unless she be a bad sailer, when it will be better to defer her departure till September.

With south-westerly winds, a ship, to pass east of the Philipines, should steer as southerly a course as possible, in order to enter the Pacific without tacking, and if the wind admit, the Ballintang channel should be adopted. In the Pacific at this season S. W. winds will generally be found with north- westerly currents ; she should therefore steer S.E. to avoid cape Engano, tacking if necessary, so as to pass neither too far out nor too close ; and be careful not to round the Pellew islands farther to the eastward than is necessary.

For making southing, the best route is then east of the isles of St. Andrew and Pulo Mariere. If the equatorial counter-current be met, it may not be strong as far as the Pellew islands ; but between the parallels of must therefore be crossed as quickly as possible if the wind be West, as it frequently is ; for if light winds prevail a ship may be set far to the east- ward by this current. But from the lat. of 2° N. to the equator a westerly current will be found, while near Dampier strait it is again found running to the eastward.

Having rounded to the eastward of St. Andrew, a ship should endeavour if Dampier strait is to be taken, she should make for point Pigot.

Gillolo passage being broader than Dampier strait is often preferred for that reason, and there are few difficulties in it to be overcome in reach- ing Pitt passage. When it is adopted, on leaving the parallel of 2® N., the Asia isles should be steered for, and rounded on the north if the wind permit, unless passing between them and Aiou.

Having passed the island of Syang, and north or south of Geby island, if the weather be not favourable Gillolo strait may be taken instead of Bougainville, which is south of it. In crossing Gillolo strait keep near the eastern coast, and enter Pitt channel between Pulo Pisang and the Boe isles, or else, according to circumstances, between Kekik and Pulo

A vessel entering Dampier strait should round point Pigot at a distance of 6 to 12 miles, and then steer for King William island, keeping it west of her ; when about 9 miles from it she should steer for Pigeon island, and pass 2 or 3 miles south of it ; she may then cross the strait, taking care to avoid any dangers in her way

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On leaving Dampier strait she Tvould -go dose round eape Mabo, so as if possible to pass south of Fulo Popa; or 'she may pass north of this island and enter Pitt channel between the Boe islands and Fulo Fopa. In Fitt channel she should keep mid-channel, bearing rather on the southern than on the northern side. Passing between Coram and Bouro, the Indian ocean may be entered by the strait of Ombay, or one of those westward of it.

Ombay strait is the nfbst direct route to the tndism ocean in the S.E. monsoon, and may be gained as above directed. But if intending to take the strait of Salaiyer, or either Alias or Sapie strait, the north-west part of Bouro should be made, and thence the most northerly of the Toekan Besi group should be rounded at 2 to 3 miles, and after rounding Celebes the course should be directed for the strait of Salayer.

The foregoing is a general account of the tracks most usually followed in traversing the China and adjacent seas. The more particular instruc- tions for each locality (excepting the eastern passages) will be found in their respective places in the following pages.

In such a variety of routes, it has been well remarked,* there is neces- sarily some diversity of opinion as to which is best, and this has not been lessened of late years by the improved build and trim of the vessels employed in Oriental commerce, and the more frequent use of steam power. The route practicable and advantageous to the swift sailing clipper or the steamer, cannot be followed by the heavy-laden and slow-sailing ship of former years. In what is here given, these different routes are each described, some from older authorities, some from recent experience. Some few of the best tracks may have been avoided from ignorance of their nature, or their supposed dangerous character. This is fast disappearing before increased knowledge, and it may be predicted that some settled system for the navigation of these seas will be established in the course of a few years.

The following ports in China and Japan have been opened by treaty to the subjects of Great Britain and other foreign nations. Regulations which every foreigner is required to obey, are suspended in the pubUc office of every consulate.

sovTB and SA8T CBHTA. - ^Canton, with the port of Whampoa; Swatow for Chau-chu-fu; Amoy ; Fuchau fu (Foo-chow), with Pagoda island ; and Ning-po.f

t Kien-chn-fii, on the north side of the island of Hainan, is also incladed in the treaties, but has not yet been opened ; and Nanking may be opened whenever deemed desirable by H.M. Government, under the most-favoured-nation clause. Simonoseki is Iso about to be opened by the Japanese Government.

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Ob tbe TAVCITSa xnrck - Shanghai ; Ching-kiang ; Nanking (not yet opened) ; Kiukiang ; and Hankow.

vomraaur osnrA. - Chifii (or Yentai) ; Tientsin, with the port of Taku ; and Newchwang with the port of Yenkoa or Yingtze.

yoBiKOflA. - -Taiwan fa, with the port of Takau ; and Tamsui, with the additional port of Kelung.

jJkVAV zs&Airas, - ^Yedo, with the port of Yokohama ; Osaka, with the port of K6be ; Nagasaki; Ntgata; and Hakodate.

The descriptions of the above ports (excepting those of Japan which are contained in the fourth yolome of the CMna Sea Directory) will be found in various parts of the body of this work, and, besides the directions for navigation, embrace their climates, trade, supplies, docking accommodation, port regulations, and other useful information.

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Vabiation in 1874.

As vessels bound to Canton river from the southward in the S.W. monsoon endeavour to make Great Ladrone island* bearing about Norths and then proceed towards the river by the Great West channel^ a description will £rst be given of the islands and anchorages on the west side of this channel, from San-chau island to Cum-sing-mun harbour, including Macao and its approaches^ also the estuary of the Si kiang or West river, called the Broadway, and then returning to the Ladrone islands the mariner will be taken through the different passages eastward of these islands to the entrance of the river and to Hong Kong, as follows : -

The Ladrones and contiguous groups which form an outer belt of islands fronting the entrance of the Canton river are described on p. 64 ; Tylo and other islands forming an inner belt, on p. 68 . Next the Lema islands and the great chain extending south-westward from them, through which the western entrance to Hong Kong is approached from the south- ward, are described at p. 71 ; the islands bounding that approach, called

Next are described the great island of Lantao and the adjacent coast forming the inner channel between Hong Kong and the Canton river at p. 81 ; followed by directions to Hong Kong or the Canton river by various other channels, viz.: through Lema channel, p. 86; through Tai- tami channel, p. 88 ; to Canton river through Lantao channel, p. 87 ; through Great West channel, p. 88 ; Lintin to Boca Tigris, p. 91 ; and through Fansiak channel, p. 93.

The chapter concludes with descriptions of the Canton river, p. 94 ; the

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SAV-OKAV, which forms the west side of entrance to the Broadway, is the next large island north-eastward of Tjlou island, and its south-east point bears W.bjN. 15^ miles from the Little Ladrone. The space between San-chau and T7I0U is shoal^ with some islets and rocks adjoining the north-east end of the latter. The depths decrease gradually off San- chauy but it is not so bold to approach as the islands to the south*-westward, for soondings of 8 to 4 fathoms extend a considerable distance from it ; nearly touching its east point is a conical islet and some rocks, with 3 fathoms close to.

xowTAnA, or Wung-cum island, forming the east side of entrance to the Broadway, is a large high island N.E. of San-chau, and dose to its north-east side is Ko-ho island. These two islands form the south side of the Typa anchorage ; and the Great West channel is bounded by them on the west, and by Potoe and the other islands adjacent on the east.

TiM SROABWAT is the chief and eastern entrance (and the only one yet surveyed) of the Si kiang, described in page 116. It has sufficient depth to admit a vessel of moderate draught a considerable way up, and may be found useful to such as intend to nuike a long stay near Macao, or to those who have parted from their anchors, and draw too much water to attempt the lypa anchorage off Macoa. Its entrance is 9 miJes south- westward of Macao, between the islands of San-chau and Montanha. The channel, a mile wide, takes a N.N.W. course for 15 miles, with average is a 12-feet shoal patch in mid-channel, between two rocks awash at low water, 4 miles within the entrance.

WATB iB&Aims are two small islets lying close off the south end of Montanha ; and N.W. f N. a mile from them lies Inside islet, having a small inlet, called Lark bay, between it and Morgan point (608 feet above the sea), the west extreme of Montanha. These islands are on the east side of the Broadway entrance; and Coffin island, bearing S.W. by W.^W. distant 4 miles fivrn the Water islands, is on the western side. At 5 miles In a S. I E. direction from Montanha peak and 2^ miles from the Water islands is a shoal patch of 12 feet.

TZBBS. - ^It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Broadway at llh.,and springs rise 7^ feet. The neaps are very irregular, there being then only one flood and one ebb of any considerable strength during the 24 hours. The direction of the flood outside is governed principally by the winds; with strong easterly winds it comes from E.S.E., and when south-westerly winds prevail from South. The ebb

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nms generallj to the S.W. Inside the riyor the tides take the direction of the channeL

3. - The best time to enter the Broadway is with the first of the flood, and if at anchor in Macao road and obliged to run for it with a N.E. or East wind, about three-quarters ebb will be the best time to leave the road, that the first of the flood maj be met at the entrance, where it flows sooner than in the road. Having rounded the east point of Elo-lio island, about I^ miles distant in 4^ fathoms, steer at any convenient distance round Apomi point, the high south-east 'extreme of Montanha, which has 3 fathoms near it, deepening gradually to the eastward towards ^otoe island.

When abreast the point, Water islands will be seen in one with each other, near the western extreme of a bay with a sandy beach. As there are not more than 2 fathoms in this bay at low tide, it should be avoided by steering to pass about half or three-quarters of a mile southward of these islands, in 2| or 3 fathoms, then haul round the western island, preserving the same depth and distance. Do not exceed the distance of one mile westward from this island, for beyond that the water shoals fast to 2^ &thoms towards the San-chau shore. From abreast the islands about a N.N.W. J W. course, giving a berth of three-quarters of a mile to Inside islet, will lead up to abreast Morgan point, the west point of Mon- tanha, in 3 and 3J fathoms at low water, off which a vessel may anchor in a gale and be sheltered till its termination.

Prom the above point the water shoals gradually towards Ross island on the west side of the channel ; there is generally a line of fishing stakes extending westward from the point, with passages among them for

xovo-CBAVy or Ballast island, bears N.N. W., 2| miles, from Morgan poin^ and between them are two passages leading to Macao, but both so ' shoal at low water as only to aflbrd a passage for boats.

K.W. JN. about IJ miles from Morgan point, and fronting the first of the- above passages, is a rock winch shows at low water about the size of a smali boat The ehannel is about a cable westward of this rock, for W. ^ S. about a mile from it is another rock, which also shows at low water, and shoal banks bound the channel on both sides. Fi'om Morgan point to Ballast island the water is shoal ; a narrow passage eastward of the eastern rock has 1^ fathoms at low water. Pak-tang, a small island with a sharp hammock on its north-east end, lies on the western bank, W. JN. distant 3 miles from Ballast island : the bank, composed of mud, has only 6 feet on it, and extends 1^ miles from Pak-tang towards Ballast island, and commencing at the western rock, trends to the N.N.W. the whole length

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of the cbannel, contracting it to about the breadth of half a mile to a miloi

If intending to proceed farther np than Morgan point steer N.N.W. towards the rock fronting the first passage to Macao ; the soundings will be about 3 fathoms at low water, and the rock should be passed within a cable on the west side, to avoid the 12 feet shoal patch in mid-chanheL When abreast the rock, steer N.N.W. J W. IJ miles, and the vessel will then be abreast Ballast island, in 2| fathoms. This is a safe and con- venient anchorage, about 6 miles S.W. by W. of Macao, and the boats are kept in sight when passing to or from that place. Fresh water may be obtained in a small bay to the northward, under Beacon hill, which is 690 feet high, and has a remarkable stone on its summit.

The channel for vessels, between Ballast island and the bluff point to the northward, becomes narrow. If intending to proceed higher up a N.N.W.^ W. course will lead about a mile above the bluff point, in 3 and 3^ fathoms, and this point ought to be passed at about three-quarters of a mile. If drawing more than 14 feet, wait here for the last of the flood, to pass the Tang rocks, lying a little to the northward, and off which are only 3^ or 4 fathoms at high water.

From the bluff point, steer N.N.W. |W. to pass a long half mile westward of the Tang, and when abreast them, steer about N. W. J N., or directly for the entrance of the river, keeping about half a mile off Nam-ye-kok point, which forms the east side of entrance ; it has a pagoda on it, and is well covered with trees. Here the depths begin to increase, and, passing Moto fort^ keep within a quarter of a mile of it, to avoid a rock lying in mid-channel; the soundings will be 4 and 5 fathoms. (For the navigation of the Si kiang see page 1 16.)

If the wind does not admit sailing directly into the entrance of the Broadway, there is room for short tacks between the Water islands and the rocky islets off San-chau, taking care of the latter shore, which is shoal. Farther in, the channel contracts a little, but the tides are of sufficient strength to back and fill past the rocks that lie at the entrance of the passage to the Typa, or where the channel may seem rather narrow for working. The wide opening eastward of Nam-ye-kok point, called the Flats, has a boat passage through it leading to Macao.

TTFA AVCBO&AOB. - ^The eastern entrance to this anchorage is between two high islands, that on the south side named Ko-ho or Apomi, and that on the north side named Typa or Kaikong. Ko-ho is separated from the north-east point of Montanha by a narrow gut with 24 feet water in it, decreasing to 9 or 10 feet farther in towards the Typa. The Anchorage is between the west end of Typa island and the east end of Macarira island, and affords secure shelter in 3^ to 4 fathoms. H.M. Shipsi

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Herald and Modeste refitted here dunng the operations in China in

i. - ^In this anchorage, and in Macao harbour, it is high water, full and change, at lOh. Cm. The springs rise about 7 feet ; in the Typa they run 1^ and 2 knots per hour, when not influenced bj the winds. The ebb runs out of the Typa entrance, but it sets across it when outside the points.

BZSBCTZoirs. - Vessels entering or leaving the Tjpa should weigh at half-fiood. In entering steer for the north extreme of Ko-ho, and pass it prettj close, the deepest water being on this side the entrance. Thence continue in mid-channel for Juan point, and when Village and East points of Typa island are in one^ haul to the northward, and anchor near the west point of Typa, with south point of Tylock open of south extreme of Typa.

Here the depth is 3^ to 4 fathoms at low tide, and vessels are sheltered from all winds by the high lands around ; the deepest water is near the west ^^int of Typa (on which is a fort), the bay abreast, at the east end of Macarira, being shoal. The watering cove is at the head of this latter bay, and from the north point a reef of rocks, with the sunken rock Fedra Mea, projects nearly a quarter of a mile eastward. In the fair channel leading to the anchorage the depths are only 8 to 10 feet at low tide ; but no injury can be received by grounding, the bottom being remarkably

acACAO BAitBOUS. - ^Macao,t a Portuguese settlement in China, stands on a small peninsula projecting from the south-east end of Hiang-shan island. The peninsula is nearly 2 miles long, less than a mile wide at its broadest part, and is connected with the island by a low, narrow, sandy isthmus, across which extends a barrier wall to exclude foreigners from the interior of the island. The town is built on the declivities round the harbour 200 to 300 feet in height, the shore beneath being embanked, so as to form a marine parade, backed by a terrace of white houses.

This settlement, known to the Chinese as Ng^o-mun, was established by ihe Portuguese in 1557, and long remained the centre of foreign trade with China, continuing to be the only outlet of commercial importance previous to the first China war and the establishment of the colony of Hong Kong in 1842. Macao has never been recognized as a possession of Portugal by the Chinese government, which, as late as 1862, reftised to ratify a treaty in which an article to that effect had been embodied j the British govern- ment, however, has recognized the- jurisdiction of its law courts as

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tanw Sarbour is formed between the peninsula and Patera island *to the westward. Its entrance is narrow, but the depths are 20 feet at low water close to fort San lago or Barra, which is built on the south-west point; and from thence the soundings are 19 and 16 feet along the western shore to the town,* Daily steam communication is maintaiued with Hong Koagy and there is an excellent landing pier in the inner harbour. Steamers also ply between Macao and Canton, making the YOjage on alternate days.

VOBV avxA &ICNBT.^-A revolving white light has been established at fort Guia, at an elevation of about 380 feet, and in clear weather should be seen 20 mUes. Its revolution is complete in 64 seconds.

9»dm Ar^oa* a rock lying S J]. 4 cables from the south point of Macao, is marked by a beacon, having depths of 9 to 12 feet all round.

San vranoUioo aank^ - ^About a mile E.S.E. from the point of that name is a mud patch with two heaps of ballast, with 4 and 5 feet on them, and 10 feet close to.

FZ&OT8, Fo#t Hesmiatioiis. - ^The port regulations now in force were issued in 1855. They require a report of the arrival of all vessels within 24 hours under a penalty of 100 dollars. Ships' papers must be lodged at the office of the captain of the port. A government school of pilotage is established for the instruction and examination of pilots, who are not allowed to serve unless duly qualified. The charge for bringing a vessel into the inner harbour is 7^ dollars. Canton river pilots are procured at Macao, and each receives a chop from the residing mandarin, to deliver to the officer stationed at the Boca Tigris, describing the f<»*ce of tiie ship and to what nation she belongs.

o&ZMATB. - ^The situation of Macao with ftdl exposure to the S.W. monsoon, renders it a more agreeable and salubrious residence during the hot season than Hong Kong, for although the place is by no means exempt from the diseases prevalent in the adjacent colony, yet sanitary improve- ments have much iacreafled the healthiness of the town.

Heat sets in about the middle of May, when the N.E. monsoon gives placb to winds prevailing from S.E. and S.W. June, July, and August are distinguished by heavy rain-fall, the two latter being the hottest months of the year. With the latter half of September northerly winds again set in.

The mean -temperatures derived from two sources, the observations

* It is stated in the Treaty Ports of China, page 224, that the inner harbonr in 1867, had become so shallow as only to accommodate vessels of light draught. The Admiralty plan bears the date of 1804, with some later corrections.

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minimum, 43^ The total rain-fall for the year ending April 30th 1864 was 90 inches.

MACAO SOAB is shoaly the depth being generally from 3 fathoms at low water springs on the west side> to 4^ or 5 fathoms close over to Samcock and the other islands that bound the east aide. There is, how* ever, said to be much less water in it of late years, bat as the bottom ia soft loam or loose mud there is no danger of a vessel striking on her anchors, for ihey immediately bury in it.

Vessels of large draught usually anchor in deep water near the ^fttan^^gj, with Macao bearing between W. by N. and W.N.W., distant 6 or 7 nule% which renders the communication with that place difficult and dangerous distant 4 or 5 miles, a large vessel may anchor in about 4 fathoms at low water, and be more conveniently situated for procuring a pilot. If drawing under 18 feet she can anchor with Macao on the same bearing about 1^ miles off the Typa entrance.

Small vessels may anchor in the S.W* monsoon in the entrance of the Typa, off the Ko-ho shore, a little outside Ka-o islet, in about 3 fathoms at low water. In the N.E. monsoon they can anchor abreast a sandy beach, between the Cau-chau or I^ine islands and Macao, in 3 or 3^ fathoms; here they will generdly have smooth water and an easy communication with the shore.

mMMCTXOwra^ - The route to Macao harbour for small vessels, through the Typa anchorage, has 7 feet at low tide in the fair track between the Typa and the harbour, and 8 to 12 feet between Typa island and Macao. A vessel should steer a direct course from the Typa to the harbour, and to avoid the sunken rock, Fedra-mea, lying about a quarter of a mile eastward of the north-east point of Macarira, keep the north-east point of Montanha open eastward of Macarira; or, in passing it keep rather towards the Typa island side of mid-channel.

From thence, steer direct for the entrance of the harbour, avoiding Fedra Ar^ca rock, from which the south point of the outermost of the two high Ma-lo-chau islets, to the south-west of the entrance, bears W. byS. ^S. IJ miles, and the point of fort Barra N.W. about 4 cables. The north-east point of Montanha in line with east point of Macarira leads westward of the Fedra Ar^ca, and a vessel wiU not be too near it if she does not go eastward of a line drawn from the west point of Typa* island to fort Barra point. This point should be rounded pretty dose in entering and the eastern shore kept aboard to the anchorage abreast the town, where a disabled ship may be hove down and repaired.

Entering from the outer roads, fort Barra point in line with the south, extreme of Anang village, W. by N., will lead between San Francisco

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bank and Pedra Ar^ca in 9 feet least water, deepening as the harbour is

OAV-OBAV, or Nine islands, are a group of islets about 4 miles north- east of Macao. They lie close together, and the depth is 3 fathoms at about half a mile eastward of the outermost islet, which bears N.E.byE. from Senhora de Penhos church at Macao ; S.W. about three-quarters of a mile from this islet, is a rock always above water.

cirM<4U]ro-iiinr HAXBomt.* - From Macao the eastern shore of Macao island trends N.N.E. about 11 miles to Bluff head, where it turns abruptly westward and forms a deep bight called Cum-sing-mun harbour. This harbour is safe for small vessels, and would be a desirable haven for vessels of large draught to run for from the anchorage off Lintin, at the approach of a typhoon, were it not for the extensive shoal flat they would have to cross, the depths being only 2 to 3 fathoms- 2 miles outside the entrance ; but they increase quickly to 7 and 8 fathoms when within half a mile of Bluff head, which is the proper side to steer for in coming from the south-east, and also to keep nearest to when running into the harbour.

The entrance, about half a mile wide, is between the south part of Kee-ow island and Bluff head. Between this head and the small islet and sunken rocks, near the island shore, the depths are irregular, from 14 to 6 fathoms ; but inside, about half a mile West, or W. by S. from the small islet, the bottom is soft, affording safe anchorage in 6, 5, or 4 &thoms, taking care to avoid the shoal patches shown on the chart.

CMUULT XhAAROiTB, (Mau-sau of the Chinese,) being the outermost island directly fronting the estuary of Canton river, is generally used as a landfall by vessels bound there from the southward during the S.W. monsoon ; and with the Little Ladrone adjoining to the westward, and Potoe to the north-westward, bounds the east side of the Great West channel, leading to the river.

This steep bold island may be easily known by its north-west part forming a round mount or dome, 1,465 feet high, which, being more elevated than the other parts, can be seen, in clear weather, about 27 miles from a vessel's deck, and 40 miles from the masthead ; none of the other islands have a similar appearance, although most of them are high. The island, about 2 miles in diameter, has a rocky aspect close to tho sea, but is safe to approach, the depths near it being 14 or 15 fathoms ; at its south-west end is Pumice Stone bay, a small inlet, where fishing boats take shelter in the N.E. monsoon.

* See Admiralty Flan of Cum-siDg-mon harbour, No. 1,253 ; scale, fn=3 inches.

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fton, (Focking-han of the Chinese,) lying to the west- ward of, and not so mnch elevated as the Great Ladrone, is of a convex sloping form, and separated bj a narrow channel of 9 to 18 fathoms watefi but too confined for a vessel except in a case of necessity. Near the west . dde of the island the depth is about 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 7 fathoms, about half a mile southward of Potoe; there are 12 fathoms near its south point, and 14 and 15 fathoms near the touth and south-east sides of the Great Ladrone.

A small rocky islet lies close to the north-east point of the Little Ladrone ; and North nearly three-quarters of a mile from this islet ii Black rock covered at high tide, with 10 fathoms close around : it will be prudent, therefore, in passing this locality at high water when the rock is covered, to keep about mid-channel between the Little Ladrone and Tong-ho island, which lies 2| miles to the northward. This is the only danger near the Little Ladrone, excepting a high rock close to its north- west side, having a depth near it of 9 and 10 fathoms.

POTOS, or Passage island, bearing N.N.W.^W. 5^ miles from the south-west end of the Little Ladrone, is a sloping rock, visible about 9 miles. There are 5 to 6 fathoms near it on all sides, but it ought not to be approached too dose in light winds, as the eddies occasioned by the freshes out of the river may render a vessel unmanageable, and pro- bably drift her towards it, or Wong-mou, the adjacent island. The channel between it and the south-east point of Montanha is about 5 miles wide, and safe.

wovG-MOV and xxuiTOirzB xszjLVBS. - ^Wong-mou^ lying 1^ miles E.N.E. of Potoe, is 1^ miles long, north and south, and has a peaked hill on its northern part ; nearly half a mile from its west side are some rocks above water. Liungnib, lying a mile eastward of Wong-mou, has a round islet off its south end.

About three-quarters of a mile N. W. from the north end of Liungnib lie two rocks, which cover at springs, and break in blowing weather ; therefore, in passing the north end of this island, keep at least a mile

Tovo-ao is&Ain>9 about 2| miles N. by E. ^^S.from the Little Ladrone, is If miles long, east and west, and of moderate and unequal height. On its north-east side is a small cove into which the ship Boddam, drawing 21^ feet water, was taken by her pilot and remained in safety during a typhoon. The cove is IJ cable wide, with 24 feet water at entrance^ 17 and 18 feet well inside, at low water springs, and the bottom all soft mud. Here a vessel may lie at anchor, or if she has none, be run into the mud without risk. On either side the land is steep from the water's edge, terminating in a valley at the head of the cove, where there is a

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66 APFBOACHES TO HOVCh KOKCh AND CAinX>N. [chap. n.

saadj beaoh and plantain trees : it is the chief rendezrons of the fishing boats in bad weather. The rocks along the north-west side of ihe core, oneHhird to half a cable off shore, have 12 feet, mad, within 8 or 4 yards of thenu

BowMer mo«ka are two rocks close together, lying N.E.byN., two« thirds of a cable flrom the sonth-east entrance point of the core ; the outer nek is awash at low water.*

-wpues. - Grood water may be obtained at Boddam cove, also beef, fish, poultry, and some fruit

PAX-&aAJt is&AirD, called also Putoy, lies N.£.by N. nearly 1^ miles firom the Great Ladrone, and on its north-east part is a remarkable cone hill, 855 feet high, visible from Macao. The island is of irregular shape, and the hills on its southern side are much covered by black rocks. On its eastern side and fronting Hoa-ock islet is a cove where fishing boats find shelter ; on its northern side are some small bays in which fresh water may be procured; and near its north-east point is House islet, formed of rock, on which the fishermen have a hut and fishing stage. A rock, awash, lies dose ofi* its south extreme.

Olio Book* on which H.M.S. Clio struck, 12th December 1841, lies about 2 cables from the west side of Pak-leak, with the north-west extreme of the island bearing N. by W. distant 4 cables.

BaaaoTZom. - This cove will not be readily distinguished until the vessel is within about 2 miles of the north-east part of Tong-ho. Steering for the entrance, take care to give a berth to North rock lying 2 cables off the north-east point of the island, and to a rock, awash at low water^ lying about 1^ cable north-eastward of Fort point ; when the head of the cove bears S.W.by W., the vessel will be south-east of the rock.

Having brought the cove fairly open on the above bearing, steer for the point on the south-east side of entrance, being careful to keep the apex of Round hill at the head of the cove just open of two high-water points on the south-east shore, to avoid Bouncer rocks, and pass it the distance of half a cable ; for the north-west point, where stands a ruined fort, and the point next westward, are bordered by rocks. Three cables south-east of entrance there is also a reef of rocks, extending three- quarters of a cable from the south-east part of the island ; these are mostly all in sight at high water, and easily avoided in rounding by giving a wide berth. The fiood sets N.W. outside the entrance, and the ebb S.E. They both run pretty strong, but there is scarcely a dram in the cove.

osvx-WAV is&Airas^ - These two islands lie about E.by N. 1^ miles from Pak-leak, and the larger island, the eastern one, has Sharp islet, a

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high rocky islet, lying oi£ its south-^eaat point, and a flouiU bay on itsnorth eide» There are 14 fathoms between Hoa-ock and the western iaha4, and 11 and 12 fivthoms northward of the group.

BAtoigb Bock, on which H.M.S. Baleigh stnxck^ 14th April 1857t ^ ft small pinnacle^ which breaks, when there is a moderate sea, at low water, long. 113^ 47' E., nearly in mid-channel between Pak-leak and Soath White rock, distant 2^ miles fipom ^e latter. When on the rock the gap in the centre of South White Bock is in line with the right extreme of a small wedge-shaped island off the eastern side of TAfaAyn^ ialand .bearing N.E.byN.; the highest part of Ai-chau island £*^N.; and the peak of the great Ladrone^ seen over the western slope of Pak-leak,

as.w.iw.

vosTB and sovTB WMiTA mocKS are two high white rocks half a mile apart, lying North 3 J miles from the western or small Chuk-wan island. From the southern rock the north-east point of the eastern Chuk-wan bears S.S. W. J W., distant 4J miles ; the peak or highest part and the western Ai-chau island S.E. by E. ^ E., distant 6 miles. About a mile south-east of the southern rock, is a small black rock, visible only at low springs, having 9 fathoms water close around. Between the' White rocks, but a little more westerly, is a smaller rock above

CAVTZOV. - The White rocks may be seen in fine weather in time to avoid them, and the depth is about 9 fathoms near their eastern side, 8 fathoms on the western and northern sides, and 9 fathoms in the channel, between them and Chuk-wan ; bui since the loss of the Raleigh by striking on the Baleigh rock, it will be pirudent not to use this channel until it has been more accurately examined.

AXp-GSJLir xs&Ain>8 lie N.E. byE.^E., 4^ miles from the eastern Chuk-wan, and the eastern or larger island is separated from the smaller one^ on its west side, by a very narrow channel with 4 and 5 fathoms in it at low water. The depth on their southern side is 14 fathoms, on the north and east sides 12 and 13 fathoms, and on the west side 8 or 9

moA zsxAT, lying N.E. 1^ miles from the northern part of the eastern Ai-chau, has 11 and 12 fathoms water at a short distance from the rocks around it.

TIM aaMComr, or Three- gates, form a group of three small islands, 2^ miles eastward of Ai-chau, extending about 3^ miles in a N.W. and S.E.

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direction, with narrow passages between them. Near the north-west part of Hak-chau, the north-west island, are two peaked islets ; and on the northern side of the group, between the eastern and middle islands, is Gauze, another high rocky islet, with a bed of rocks Ijing southward of it ; the south end of the eastern island is the highest part of the group and forms a round mount. A small harbour on the south-west side of the largest or middle island affords shelter to two or three vessels during a N.E. gale, with anchorage in 6 to 10 fathoms, muddj bottom.

uoroTnra xs&Aira, bearing W.|N. distant 15 miles from the N.E. head of the Lema islands, is of rugged appearance, about If miles long, east and west, and rises to a peak near its centre. Two rocks, one awash and the other above water, bearing N.byE. and S.by "V^. of each other, lie eastward of the north point of the island ; the outer one, ^wash, is distant nearly a mile E.N.E. from the north point, and the other S. by W. about half a mile from the outer one, with depths near them of 13 fathoms, but foul ground between.

areeOle Books, on which H.M.S. Doris struck in 1813, are two heads lying within a few yards of each other, about 1^ <^bles south-west of the low rocky north-east extreme of Lingting^ and they are so sharp that it is difficult to keep the lead fixed on their points ; at low springs * they have about 6 feet water on them, at which time, with a swell, they may probably show either breakers or a rippling. From the outer rock the south-west extreme of the Lema islands is just set in with the south- west point of Lingting, and the highest part of Lamma island is a little way over the low north-west point. A vessel will avoid them when passing round the north-west end of Lingting by not approaching it within half a mile, or by keeping the south-west extreme of the Lema islands a little open south-west of Lingting.

The depths close to the north point of Lingting are 18 or 19 fathoms, decreasing to 14 and 15 about a mile distant ; to the southward aad westward of the island, there are 10, 11, and 12 fathoms over soft

CAVTZOV. - When passing northward of Lingting at night, give its north side a berth of 1 J miles to avoid the two rocks off its north-east

TT-&0 zsiaAsrB is the southern of the range of small islands bound- ing the east side of Macao road. It is high near the western part, sloping a little to the eastward, and lies N. ^ E. from the north end of Liung- nib, from which it is separated by a good channel 2^ miles wide, but in using it take care to avoid the rocks off the northern point of the laiteor..

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Ty-lock, about half a mile northward of Ty-lo, is a small rocky islet, with a large rock on its summit.

SABK-cocx xs&AJTD, the largest of the above range, and lying H miles N.N.E. from Ty-lock, is of moderate height, rugged in appearance, and in the form of a pyramid. Between it and Ty-lock is the small islet Sy-lock, and two rocks above water ; but the channels between these are so narrow, that they should not be attempted on account of the strong eddies, which frequently render vessels unman- ageable. In passing between Sam-cock and Chnng-chau-si, the next island to the northward, keep in mid-channel or nearest to the latter, in 6 or 7 fathoms, as there are only 3^ fathoms at a quarter of a mile from the north point of Sam-cock, 3^ fathoms about a quarter of a mile off the west point, and 3 fathoms the same distance off its eastern

muter^ - On the northern part of Sam-cock there is a small bay or cove for boats, and the island affords fresh water.

CBinro-CKAir-ax, or West Water island, the northernmost of this range, L'es N.N.E. about 1^ miles from Sam-cock, with 7 fathoms near it to the eastward, and 5 and 6 fathoms to the northward and westwards The depths are 5 or 5^ fathoms about half a mile off the western side of this range, from Ty-lo to Chung-chau-si, and 7 fathoms off the eastern side ; the ebb stream runs strong from the northward along the western side, and the flood in eddies from the south-eastward.

V01TS.-PBBT ROCK. - ^This small dangerous needle rock, with only 4 feet on it and 10 fathoms close around, lies E.S.E. 3 miles from Chung-chau-si, and from it the summit of Ty-lo bears S.W. byW., the centre of S^-m-cock W. ^ S., and the small islet lying off the north- west end of Chung-chau N.N.E. J.E. When Chuck-tu-aan island (3 mile* S.E. by S. from Chung-chau-si) and the small islet off the north-west end of Chung-chau are on the same bearing, about N.N.E. ^ E. and S.S.W.^W., the rock will be between the two, but nearest the former ; therefore if a Tessel has occasion to enter Macao road by this channel, and keeps about three-quarters o£ a mile off Lafsami and the south side of Chung-chau, she will pass in mid-channel, and have 10 or 12 fathoms water decreasing to 7 fathoms as she nears Chung-chau-si.

CBmrG^CKikir, or Water island, which with the islands southward of it bound the south-west side of Lantao channel, lies about S.W. by W. 2^ miles from the south-west point of Lantao, is high, with a peaked hill near its north point. It is 1^ miles long, N.W. and S.E., and there tiro no hidden dangers near its northern side. The soundings in the channel between it and the south point of Lantao are irregular and strong eddies generally prevail, the depths being 7 fathoms near the point of Lantao,

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18 or 20 iktiioinB in mid-cbaiuiely and 28 or 30 fathoms close to Chuag- ebaa. There is a core for boats on the north side of the island, and a short distance westward of its northern point is a round and high islet with a large rock on its summit ; near the north and west sides of this islet the depth is 15 fathoms.

VAV-TAV^mnr, or Bullock-head Gate, the next island to the south- east, is small but high, and separated from Chung-chau bj a narrow channel, through which H.M.S. Doris ran, and found shoal water near Chung-chau. The depths near the north side of Nau-tau-mun are 15, 16, and 17 fathoms, rather irregular ; but to the southward, in the bay which it forms with Lafsami, there are only 3 to 5 fathoms.

luunukxx aB&AVB, separated from Nau-tau-mun by a narrow chan- nel, is larger than either Chung-chau or Nau-tau-mun. It is inhabited on the south-western side, where fresh water is to be had in a small l>ay. The depths on its north side in Lantao channel are very irregular, from 17 to 25 fathoms in overfalls, about a quarter of a mile off, and on its south side 10 and 11 fathoms. This island from some views forms a peak ; and a short distance eastward of its south point is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen have huts, and a winch for heaving up their nets.

CBX-CBAV ZB&AVBS. - Chi-chau, the largest of two islands lying 2^ miles E.S.E. of Lafsami, forms the south side of the east entrance of Lantao channel. The island is high, of round appearance, inhabited on the west side, and separated by a narrow channel from the smaller and lower island, on its western side ; a sunken rock lies off its north- east point, and a patch of 4 fathoms about a quarter of a mile off its north point. Between the west point of the smaller island and the rocky islet lying off the eastern side of Lafsami is a safe channel, 1 J miles wide, of 9 and 10 fathoms, which may be taken by a vessel bound up the river when she enters the islands from the south-east between Chuk-wan and Ai-chau.

SOKO isiLikirBS. - A-chaa, the southern of the two Soke islands, ia distant nearly 4 miles S.E. | E. from the south point of Lantao, aud forms the north side of the eastern entrance of Lantao chauneL The Bouth point of A-chau is high, and rises very steep, having a depth of 7 fathoms close to; the soundings between it and Chi-chau are 11 or £2 fathoms in mid-channel, 13 fathoms nearly over to Chi-chau^ deepening suddenly to 25 or 30 fathoms in a hole or swatch close to Chi-chau.

The other island, lying a short distance northward of A-chau, is abbut a mile long, east and west, and very narrow in the middle. A saiid spit extends nearly West upwards of 1^ miles from its west side, and

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.ofi the west extreme of the apit are 2f fittfioms at low water, decreasing qnicklj to 2 and 1^ £Ekthoms towards the island.

A rocky islet and two rocks above water lie between the two Soke 43lanidSy nearest to the soath-west point of the northern one ; there is also three-quarters of a mile south-eastward of A-chau^ a high rockj islet which maj be passed at half a mile to the southward in 7 fathoms, but the ground is foul between it and A-chau.

ivuter. - ^Fresh water maj be procured at a little sandj beach on the northern side of A-chau.

The south coast of Lantao island is described on page 82, and the neighbouring islands, Ai-chau, Lingting, and the Samoon group at page 67.

KTVOvo iBikAms are the southernmost group of the archipelago fronting the estuary of Canton river, extending N.£. and S.W. about

sm»'» aars.- - Pak-tsim, the largest and north-eastern island, £.byS. 16 miles from the Great Ladrone, has near its western extreme, the Asa's Ears, two high remarkable peaks, which make it easily known, as they rise from the same base almost perpendicularly from the sea to the height of 980 feet, and sloping suddenly down on the north-east side, are united to moderately elevated land, which terminates that part of the island.

Ttf-miHwan, the next island to the south-west, is of considerable size, and separated from the south-west point of Pak-tsim by a channel about half a mile ?dde.

Ckip, »eakedt and Runred Bocks. - ^A range of islets extends 4^ miles in a south-westerly direction from Tsi-mi-wan; the south-westernmost islet, 90 feet high, called Gap rock, but Man-mi-chau by the Chinese, has a small gap in it. Between the south end of Tsi-mi-wan and Peaked rock, 180 feet high, the easternmost islet of the range, is a passage H miles wide, with 18 fathoms least water in it. Rugged rock, 60 feet high, lies about 1^ miles N.W.^W. from the south end of Tsi-mi-wan. The passage^ about half a mile wide, between Nut island and the islet nearest to it to the southward, has 10 to 26 fathoms water. There is also^ between Gap rock and the other islets to the eastward, an opening a mile wide^ with 16 to 18 &thoms water, and safe to pass through with a stea^

xwel«tan, or Tortoise head, a white rocky ickt, lies about three-quarters of a mUe from the east point of Pak-tsim, having other, rocks between it and the point, neither of which ought to be approached. . Qay-nne is another islet^ rather more than a mile northward of the north end of Fak*tsim: the passage between it and the laUer, however^

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ought not to be attempted unless from necessity ; for there is said to exist some straggling rocks on which the sea breaks at times.

OAMBmrpaa bocx, on which a vessel of this name struck, August 30, 1820, requires the greatest care to avoid when passing through the Tai-ta-mi channel between the westernmost of the Lema islands and the above rocks. The rock is of a spiral form with only 17 feet water on it, and sometimes breaks. It lies N.by W.JW. 2 J miles from Kwei-tau, N.N.E.^E. 1} miles from the north point of Pak-tsim, and from it the highest part of Chi-chau island is in line with Hill islet N.W., and the south-east side of Gay-une islet is on with north-west extreme of Bugged rocky S.W. ^ W. There are 4 and 5 fathoms on the rocks which surround the spiral rock ; and thence the depths increase to 23 fathoms in Tai-ta-mi channel, which is 2J miles wide, and safe by borrowing towards the Lema islands when passing through.

lAMA aB&AVBS consist of three large and one small island, extending

TMnkAB, the easternmost and largest island, is 6 miles long and a mile . broad, of moderate height and undulating, and separated from Ye-chau, the middle island, by the naiTow Yat-moun channel.

The Yat-moun channel by Capt. Bate's survey of 1850, is free of danger and carries a depth of 12 to 19 fathoms, but by the following extract* from the log of the ship Cordeliay it would appear there is a sunken rock in mid-channel and that this passage should not be attempted unless from

** November 14th, 1834: the current and swell setting the Cordelia bodily on the land, and having the Yat-moUn channel open, steered for it, keeping near the south-west end of Tam-kan to prevent the vessel from being carried by the current on a small rocky islet lying off the north-east point of Ye-chau; afterwards endeavoured to steer in mid-channel, but the eddy current swept the vessel into the surf that rebounded from the point of Tam-kan, when at the same time a sunken rock appeared about mid- channel, upon which the vessel must have been lost by following the track intended. Although blowing strong outside, the sails flapped to the mast as the vessel entered the channel, which ought not to be adopted unless in a case of extreme necessity, and then the shore of Tam-kan should be kept dose aboard to avoid the rock."

Te-eban is the middle and highest of the Lema islands, and, when viewed from most positions, appears flat on the top. Close to its north- east part is Round island, a small rocky islet, visible when the Yat-moun channel is open.

Howburgh's Directory, Vol U., seventh edition, page 398.

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ghap.il] LEMA and LAMHA ISLANDS. 78

-till, the third or fsonthem of the large islancb, is separated from Ye-chau hj the narrow Ye-chan channe], with 19 to 30 fathoms water in it. This island, 1,210 feet high, forms more in a peak than either of the other two, and has a point projecting westward with a hummock oa it, named £-chaa head.

Tai-^tarmi* a small but high island, lies to the southward of this head, with a narrow channel between it and Poon-tin, and forms the north-east boundary of the Tai-ta-mi channel, which has Cambridge rock, PakHsim island, and the Kwei-taa rocks bounding its south-west side.

i^iMMcnoMa* - The Lema islands on their southern side are all steep and rockj, not affording even a single baj for a boat to shelter in, and the soundings are 22 or 23 fathoms about 1^ miles from their coasts; on their northern sides the depths are generally 15 or 16 fathoms close to the shore. Vessels in the N.E. monsoon should endeavour to pass between the north end of Tam-kan and Putoy, which lies 6 miles northward^ and its north end, when viewed fix>m the E Jl'.E., forms a small peaked

Notwithstabding the Lema islands appear barren, there are a few men residing on tbem, preparing charcoal from small quantities of brushwood found between the rocks, which they send to Macao for sale. Fresh water may be obtained along the north shore of Tam-kan at several places ; and close to the westward of its north-east point, in a little cove, called Joss House bay, is a Chinese place of worship, and about this part the Compradores' boats await vessels after the end of August, when] the easterly winds set in. The Yat-moun and Ye-chau channels should not be used unless in a case of emergency, or when the wind blows directly through, as they are narrow, with deep water, and have generally a strong current sweeping through them. Yat-moun is the widest, and of moderate depth, but if the Cordelia rock be in existence, it is very

T-imgiMA isikAm lies off the south-west side of Hong Kong, and its south-west point bears N.W.by W. J W. 13 miles from the NJE. head of the Lema islands, and N.E. 5^ miles from the north point of Lingting. The island, of rocky appearance, is about 4 miles long, north and south, and 2 miles wide, but narrowed near the middle by a deep cove on its east side, and a long bay on its west side, so that between them the island is not more than a quarter of a mile across. The north end of the island is about a mile distant from the south-west part of Hong

. * iSMAdmiialty Chart of HoDg Kong, No. 1,4S6; scale, Mas '4 inchef.

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Frcm the north poini of tbe long baj, on the west ftldo of the kland, the shore trends N.^E. a mile to another point, off which^ at half amflle from the shore^ are some sunken rocks.* The sonth-east point of the idand is remarkable from its being a small round hummock, of bright green appearance on the top, and rocky near the water's edge ; this part of the island, as far as the eastern point, is rocky dose to the shore, with

The cove on the east side of the island, to the northward of its eastern point is about 1^ miles deep and two-thirds of a mile wide. It carries a depth of 8 to 3^ fathoms, tmd a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms over rocky bottom, about half a mile within the entrance, and ride in security, being land-locked. George island, 234 feet high, lies close to the north- ward of the north point of the cove.

XAUfMA OKunrauSr^East Lamma channel, between Lamma island and Hong Kong, is about a mile wide, and has general depths in it of from 17 to 23 fathoms ; but a yei^sel will find a good and edieltered anchorage between George island and the north point of Lamma in 7 or 8 fathoms. There appear to be no dangers in this channel, but a rockf is said to lie off the south-east point of Mas-kong or Round island, on the Hong Kong

West Lamma channel, between the western side of Lamma and the islands lying off the east side of Lantao, has general depths of 5 and 6 fathoms on a mud bottom. Entering it from the East Lamma channel, the soundings*will decrease rapidly to 7 and 6 fathoms after rounding the north point of Lamma, off which, at a third of a mile to the N.N.E., is a rocky patch of 8 fathoms, surrounded by depths of 14 to 21 fathoms.

Water. - ^About a mile north-east of the north point of Lamma island, and near the western point of a deep cove, named Aberdeen or Shekpywan harbour, on the Hong Kong shore, there is a cascade where good water can be conveniently obtained.

OBmro iBiakM9 is near the south-east side of Lantao, K«^W. 5 imiles fix>m Lingting. Its north and south parts are high, but it is naxxowed near the middle, which is low, by two bays, one on the east, the othi^r on the west side of the island. A vessel of moderate drau^t will $fid good shelter, during an easterly gale, in the western bay in 3^ fathoms. There is no dangei** in passing the south end of the island, the .4eptb9 being 7 and 8 fathoms close to^ imd 5 and 6 fathoms near the (iK>uth-westem part ; but East, about 3 cables from the eastern p<Hnt of

* Horsbuig's Directory, Vol. IL, eighth edition, page 272.

t This roek is doubtful $ it is not shown in Capt.Belcher's siirrey of 1841.

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the idaady is a Bmall rock, which dries at low water, and has 6 and 7 iBkibomB close to»

To the northward of Chnngy and at a short distance from Lantao, are several small islands and rocks aboye water, bat the channels between ihem and the Lantao shore are narrow, shoal, and unfit for large yessels.

iVMerir - Fresh water can be procured in the baj on the western ade of Chang.

THe m-T0T c»oirp, lying sonth-east of Hong Kong, boands the noriihem side of the Lema channel'*

Pit-toy, the southern island of the group, bears N.N.W. ^ W. 6 mfles from the N.E. head of the Lema islands. It is of moderate height, the appearance in general barren, there being onlj a small quantity of brush* wood iniihe valleys. On its western side is a core for boats and a small rocky islet.

&o-«iia« or Boavftort istoad, lying northward of Pa-toy, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is 895 feet high, flattened at the top, and steep all around ; its north-western brow has a small peak, with a few lai^ and remarkable rocks on it. Half a mile off its south-west point is Castle rock above water, having no hidden dangers near it.

sva^-koiic, about 1^ miles East of Lo-chau, is a small island rising in a peak 466 feet high towards the centre. Near its north-western part are some rocks considerably above water.

wiar-ian, about three-quarters of a mile East of 8un-kong, is a small barren rocky islet, the easternmost of this group, having 16 and 17 fathoms water at a short distance to the eastward.

2 to 5^ miles broad, and with an area of about [29 square miles, lies between Lamma island and the main, and separated from the latter by a narrow channel a quarter of a mile wide, named Lyemun pass. The appearance of the island is somewhat picturesque, but on the whole gene- ra31y barren and unprepossessing. It consists for the most part of rocky ranges, on the highest summit of which, Victoria peak, 1,825 feet above the sea level, at the north-west part of the island, is a signal station which commTinicates with the city of Victoria and vessels seaward. A good military road about 22 statute miles in length encircles the island. The city, 3 miles in extent, is on its north side, nearly abreast Kowloon point, the extreme of the peninsula of the mainland which forms the west side of

* Com. C. M. BucUe, B^.* who oruized for some dajs about the uBlandssoathward of Hong Kong in H.M.S. Cormorant^ 1865, remarks that there are a number of small rocks amongst them, some above and some below low-water mark, which, owing to the smaQness of the scale of the chart, do not appear.

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Eowloon bay. Water abonnds everywhere, and is sappUed to shipping hy tanks; each vallej of the least pretension sends its stream to the cnltiyated grounds near the shore, where a portion is retained for irrigation, and the remainder is permitted to find its way to the sea.

The shores of Hong Kong are indented by numerous bays, of which the most considerable are on its south side. There is good anchorage throughout the entire channel between the island and the main, except in the Lyemun Pass, where the water is deep ; but the best anchorage is in Hong Kong road, in front of the settlement, where the depth is from 5 to 9 fathoms over good holding ground. During the typhoon months the anchorage in the northern part of the road is considered preferable in consequence of the shelter afforded by Kowloon peninsula to the north- east, the point from which the wind blows hardest. The inner anchorage in Victoria bay is in 6 and 7 fathoms, about half a mile off shore, abreast the Ordnance jetty, where a yessel will be sheltered from the eastward by Kellett island and East point, and be out of the strength of the Ude.

The population of Hong Kong in 1841 was only 7,540 ; but according European and American, and the remainder Chinese. In 1864 the total which about one-sixth were in ballast.

Hong Kong being a free port, it is impossible to give any statistics of its trade. It may be looked upon chiefly as a dep6t, only a small quantity of the goods imported being consumed upon the island, the greater portion being re-exported to other ports. Amongst the articles principally dealt in, may be enumerated,^-opium, sugar, flour, cotton, rice, tea, cotton and woollen goods, silks, oil, salt, provisions, &c., besides which there is an export of granite, almost the only article produced in the colony.

Hong Kong was first occupied by the British in January 1841, having been ceded by the Chinese Commissioner. On the 6th February 1842 it was declared a free port by Sir H. Pottinger, and on the 26th January. 1843 a formal ratification of the treaty between Great Britain and China took place, followed by a proclamation announcing the fact, and directing that the city be called Victoria, in obedience to Her Majesty^s commands* It was constituted a British crown colony by Order in Council of the 5th April 1873. The peninsula of Kowloon, opposite the city, was sub- sequently ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of Tientsin in 1860.

Climate, 4bo. - ^Hong Kong lies just within the tropic, and is subject to an excessively hot and a somewhat cool season, coinciding with the S.W. and N.E. monsoons; it has als« a dry and a rainy season. The annual range of temperature is from 45° to 99°, and the average annual range from 74? to 93°. July and August are the hottest months, the temperature ranging

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from 8(f to 94^ with a difference of 10° between day and night. The> city bezD^ situate on the nort)i side of the island under the peak, is com- pletely sheltered from the influence of the S.W. monsoon, which, on the Bouihem side of the island agreeably tempers the violent heat. NoTember to January is the coolest period, and the air is often bracing; the tem- perature occasionally falls below 40°, and ice has been known on the peak* but this is rare ; sudden changes frequently take place^ a day of ahnost tropical heat being followed by a cutting northerly wind, for when calms aad Yoriables prevail, it is hot even in winter, and it requires the north-east wind and overcast sky to reduce the temperature, and gales from the latter quarter are common in the autumn and spring months, blowing for two or three days. March and April are rainy and foggy, and the damp is so penetrating that the greatest core is required to prevent dothes, books, instruments, stores, &c., from' being destroyed or injured by mildew. Typhoons seldom occur before June or July, for they advance north- ward as the season progresses, and may be expected most severe at Hong Kong about the autunmal equinox.

The wet season commences in May and continues until the beginning of August, and during this period the rain ialls almost without inter* mission, frequently causing floods which do great damage.

Although visited by sickness caused by malaria, it has been shewn by statistics that for salubrity Hong Kong may compare favourably with most of the ports of the East, and its healthiness has been greatly in- creased of late years by its sanitary arrangements and excellent water supply. The annual rate of mortality amongst the foreign residents between 1858 and 1865, was about 5^ per cent., ranging in various years between 2 and 8 per cent. The most unhealthy years have been those most deflcient in rainfall. Dysentery and intermittent fever are not un- common, and the bilious remittent fever, sometimes so nearly allied to yellow fever, occurs in the summer season, small-pox prevailing in January, February, and March. Neglect of the usual conditions of health, such as exercise, diet, proper clothing, and the like, conduce to, and exposure to the rays of the sun, even in winter, almost invariably results in, sickness.

Tbe Barbour consists of the space enclosed between the northern shore of the island and the mainland immediately opposite. It is only exposed to the force of strong westerly gales, and their effect is mitigated by the large number of outlying islands, so that altogether it may be deemed one of the safest in the world. Eastward of the harbour, the peninsula of Kowloon forms an inner harbour which is nearly landlocked, and which affords protection to vessels in all weathers, but the situation is not a convenient one. On the approach of a typhoon the native craft almost invariably seek shelter over towards the northern side of the harbour..

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The ftnchorage ismoet oommodionSy and 10^ entered from the sea by toe de^water channeb both from the eastward and westward. The depth of water varies from 8 to B fathoms, deepeniDg to 11 &thomfi off Kowlobn

There are port regolations for the berthing of vessels under the snperifii' tendence of the harbour master. The anchOTBge fi» the merchant shipping is abreast the centre and lower parts of the city, on either side a Mirmt.^ ofaamel, marlEed bj bnoys; that for the men-of«war lies eastward, betwdctti the dividing limit

itaypUM. - Stores and provisions of every kind can be obtained in abundance, and there is a well-regulated market. Excellent water from the well-constmoted water-works, is efficiently supplied to the dty and shipping. Every appliance necessary for refit and for the repairs of ships and steam machinery will be found at the dock establishments, stores, &c. ; and there is a good hospital for seamen, and a well«condncted sailors' home.

Bocxs, BepairSf 4U). - ^There are two large granite docks at Aberdeen or Shekpywan harbour, a narrow inlet formed between the south-west shore of Hong Kong, and small island off it named Aberdeen or Taplichau. They lie on the Hong Kong shore of the harbour, and one of them is capable of receiving the largest class of vessels drawing 24 feet. There is also a dock at Kowloon, and a patent slip at East point. The dock charges are very high, owing to want of competition, and therefore many prefer to have their vessels docked at Whampoa in the Canton river, see p. 101, where the charges are more moderate.*

Aberdeen ]>oe]ui.^The dimensions of these docka^ belonging to the Hong Kong and Whampoa Dock (Company, are as follows : -

Length over all

Breadth over all

Width of caisson gate -

Depth over sill at spring

The above are the extreme depths for which credit is claimed, but the level is much influenced by the wind at all times, and from October to January inclusive, the average height is about 1 J feet greater at springs than during the remainder of the year.f

* A rock breaks at low water about 50 yards to the westward of the north point of Aberdeen bay. There is also another rock a little more than half that distance off a point to the south of it, on which a vessel was lost.

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A steam tug of 100 horse power nominal, is abrByB in readinesfl to tow sailing vessels round from Hong Song firee of chargpy and will take tbem back or to sea at reduced rates.

The workshops on the premises possess erery appliance necessary for the Tepairs of ships and steam machinery $ the engineers and blacksmith^ shops are provided with steam lathes, planing, cutting, and pancfaing machines, and other plant, capable of execnting work on the largest scale; and the work is entirely carried on under the sapervision of experienced Europeans. There are also poweribl Hfting shears on the jetty, akmgnde which vessels can lie in 24 feet water, and take in or out IxHlers, masts, ftc New boilers oan he made^ iron and brass casting executed, and stores, such as paint, copper, canvas, and the like, supplied.

oiber 9ocks^ - ^The tJnion Dock Company has also a dock at Kowloon, which, being within the harbour is of immense advantage to vessels which may reach port in such a state as to require instant docking. Its dinien« sions are : - ^Length over all, 300 feet ; breadth of entrance 80 feet; and depth over sill at ordinary spring tides, 21 feet.

The patent slip at East point, on the northern shore of Hong Kong, is said to be capable of taking vessels of 1,000 tons.

TiBWi. - It is high water, full and change, in A>ng Ebng road at lOh. 15nK, and springs rise about 4| feet. Around the island the tides are irregular, flowing and ebbing without any apparent change of direc- tion at the surface, and at neaps there sometimes appears to be only one tide in 24 hours. In the harbour the tidal streams are regular.

At Hong Kong,* during the summer months, the highest tide is three days after, in winter three days before the full and change. In September, October and November, and the three corresponding spring months, March, April and May, the highest water is at the latter end of the quarter. In March the tide is very low. At all seasons of the year the tides are most irregular off the mouth of the Canton river. It so occurs that the night tides are the higher, and consequently stronger, during the N.E. monsoon, and similarly the day tides in the S.W. monso<»u The rise from low water at Hong Kong is 7^ feet, except in strong east and south-east winds. A tide of 10 feet rise at Canton or Whampoa is generally owing to a fireshet or a strong southerly wind.

mmaorxows. - ^Hoog Kong road is generally approached by sailing vessels from the westward, which side is protected by Qreen island and KeDett bank, the latter extending nearly 1^ miles northward from the island, with an even depth of 3^ fathoms. It may also be approached from the eastward through the Lyemun Pass during the N.E. monsoon,

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but the winds are generally baffling under the high land, for which reason it is not generallj used hy sailing vessels.

When abreast Green island, if the ressel be of hearj draught Jkeep the peak of Lanuna island (Mount Senhouse, 1,140 feet high) open west- ward of Green island S. | E. until Derils peak (on the mainland near Ljemun Pass) is in line with the White rock on the south point of Won- chu-chau or Stone-cutters island, when a S.£.byE. course will lead northward of Kellett bank, and direct for the anchorage.

Vessels of proper draught can proceed oyer Kellett bank, on which the least water is 20 feet^ or through the 4-fathoms channel between Green island and the south part of the bank, by passing about 1| cables' north- ward of the island, and then steering for the toad.

The narrow channel between Green island and Hong Eong is sometimes used by steamers, also by sailing yessels when a fresh fair wind blows riff hi through. It has depths of 10 to 12 fathoms in the middle, shoaling to 8, 6, and 4^ fathoms after passing the small islet eastward of Green island.

Xiffbthoiues are in course of construction on Green island, and on cape

TTTAM BikT and BABBomt. - There are several bays on the southern shore of Hong Kong, all of which are safe for small yessels ; but at the south-east part of the island is Tytam bay, an inlet 2^ miles deep, 1^ miles wide at entrance, free from danger, and carrying a depth of 10 to 6 fathoms. Tytam head, the western point of entrance, is a high bluff, with 13 and 14 fathoms near it ; from thence the western shore of the bay trends about N. by W. three-quarters of a mile to a small sandy bay, with a rocky islet fronting the beach. About half a mile northward of the islet the land forms a round projecting pointy and northward of this point is a larger bay, with a sandy beach, in which is T^tam village.

Tylong head, or cape D'Aguilar, off which are two green islets, forms the eastern point of entrance to Tytam bay, and from thence the eastern shore of the baj bends round to the northward for 2 miles, and terminates in Tytam harbour, carrying 4 to 6 fathoms ; but its head, to the north- west, is shoal and rocky. This bay would be useful to a vessel, in the event of her being near Wag-Ian at the close of the day, with the pro- bability of a dark and tempestuous night, for by running in she will at any rate be snug, even if there should be a typhoon during the night. If wishing to anchor in the upper part of the bay, be careful to avoid the fishing stakes, of which there are a great many in the middle of the bay.

"Water. - ^At the head of Tytam harbour is a rivulet of fresh water, which, however, cannot be procured without inconvenience when the tide is low. Water may be obtained at Tytam village on the western shore of the bay.

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-There is yerj Utile tide in Tjiam bay, and, like all the places hereabouts^ is difficalt to fix the time of high water^ owing to the variety of channels, and the wind greatlj influencing the tidal streams ; but the rise and iall is about 7 or 8 feet at springs, and about 8 or 4 feet at neaps. The ebb sets to the eastward between Lo-chau and Hong Kong.

Bntaonovs. - 1£ bound to Tjtam baj from the eastward the route maj either be taken to the northward of Wag-Ian, Sun-kong, and Lo-chau, through the Shingshimdn pass ; or to the southward of this group through the Lema channel, and round Castle rock to the westvrard of Lo-chau. But the northern passage is preferable, for af^r opening the baj a ressel maj haul to the northward into any conrenient berth ; whereas, bj taking the southern route, if the wind be northerly, she will haye to work in.

If Shingshimun pass be taken, give Wag-Ian and Sun-kong a berth of half to three-quarters of a mile, and steer for the pass, which is formed by the high island of Lo-chau to the southward, and the two green islets off Tylong head to the northward : in this track a vessel will carry 17 and 16 fathoms water from Wag-Ian, and, by keeping in mid-channel, will have 27 and 30 fathoms deepening as Lo-chau is neared, and shoaling to 14 or 16 fathoms near the islets. The depths will shoal fast to 10 or 11 fathoms when about one or 1^ miles westward of the two islets. From thence steer for the anchorage off Ty tarn village, on the western shore, in 6^ fathoms. In this position a vessel will be weU sheltered from all winds, except those £rom South, which cannot affect her much, as the islands and rocks contiguous to the entrance prevent much swell from rolling in.

To enter Hong Kong harbour from the westward, directions are given

), or Ty-ho, the large high island lying westward of Hong Kong, is 14 miles long, N.E.byE. and S.W.byW., and its greatest breadth 6^ miles. About the centre of the island the land is very high, making in peaks, the highest and westernmost of which rises 3,050 feet above the sea level.

West Coast. - Close to the western shore of Lantao, 1^ miles from the south point, is a peaked hill, which at high water is insulated. From this hiU to the point a mud flat extends about a third of a mile off shore, with only 2 fathoms water on it ; therefore, in passing this part of the island do not decrease the depth under 7 fathoms, as the soundings will shoal fast from 17 to 7 fathoms near the edge of the flat.

About li miles N.N.W. of the peaked hill, and half a mile from the nearest shore, is a rock above water, having near it a depth of 15 fathoms,

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and between it and the shore 7 fathoms, decreasing quickly towards the latter, N.E. bj N. 1^ miles firom this rock is a bluff point, aud eastward of the latter a bay, in which is the Tillage of Ty-ho, wlrere thrare is a creek, or rivulet into whieh A boat may go at high tide. To the southward of the Tillage are two bays, both of which are shoal, but fresh water .may be procured in them.*

vortb coMt« - On the northern side of Lantao are two projecting points three-quarters of a mile apart^ between which is the bay and village Sah*lo-wang ; and directly fronting the eastern point of the bay and about a quartep of a mile distant, is a small islet, having a rock awash off its north-west side. Between* this islet and Saw-chau, 2^ miles to the northward, the depth is too small for a vessel of large draught at low water ; towards Saw-chau is the deepest water, 3| and 4^ fathoms, shoal- ing near the Lantao shore to 3 and 2| fathoms, on a soft mud bottom.

Inm&ediately eastward of the above small islet, between it and Chu-lu- cock island, is another bay in which is Tung-chung village. Ked point, the north-east extreme of Chu-lu-cock, has a remarkable rocky appearance, and is frequented by a company of stone-cutters, who cut the granite, rocks into slabs for building. The south point of this island is so near to the Lantao shore, that in passing it is difficult to distinguish it to be an island. In Tung-chung bay the water is shoal, only 2 and 2^ fathoms ; and there is but little water on the eastern side of Chu-lu-cock ; firom thence the northern shore of Lantao is not inhabited.

About one mile E.N.E. of Bed point lies a small green island 230 feet high, and three-quarters of a mile farther in the same direction another . small island 200 feet high, which are the Brothers of Dalrymple, or Motoe of the Chinese. A rock, 30 feet above water, lies about half a mile south- . ward of the East Brother, and about 1^ miles off the Lantao shore.

The depths near the Brothers are 7 and 8 fathoms, shoaling from the eastern islet towards the northern shore into 4 or 5 fathom^, and. making the channel narrow ; a small reef borders the western and northern ends of the West Brother. According to Captain H. Smith, of H.M.S. Druid, there is a good channel with 8 or 10 fathoms between the East Brother and the large rock southward of it ; the rock appears bold on all sides. From the East Brother the north-east ' point of Lantao bears E«byN.

84m0i Coast. - The southern coast of Lantao forms two large but shoal bays. The larger and eastern bay, to the north-eastward of the(|^Soko idands, has in it a small islet and some rocks above water, and a populous

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village at its head. The depth is 2 fathoms within the rocks, and 4 and 5 iatiioms in the entrance of the baj, where there appears to be good anchorage.* The western bay is lesS capacious than the other, and carries

- vatsBiTy a high green island, lying off the east entrance point of the eastern of the abore bays, and separated from it by a naifrow channel, has close to its west side some rocks above water. A small vessel will find good anchorage westward of these rocks, anchoring with them bear- ing abont S. by E., three-quarters of a mile distant, in 5 fiftthoms. Fresh water may be procured at the sandy beaches on the south shore of Lantao. In the channel formed between Lantao and Patung are depths of 7 &thoms ; the ebb here runs to the eastward.

CAP-szirci-imnr »ASSii.aB, or Throat Gates, formed between the north point of Lantao and the main, is separated into two channels by Mah-wan island. The channel on the west side of Mah-wan is generally used by steam vessels, but it is narrow, and the eddies caused by the strong tides are dangerous. The channel northward of that island should be used by sailing vessels, for it is wider, has good anchorage, a regular tide, and in the N.E. monsoon the advantage of being to windward.

Vassase Boek. - ^This sunken rock is described in Appendix, page 574.

l>z&BCTZOirs. - ^A sailing vessel proceeding through the Cap-sing-mun passage from the westward, should keep close over to the mainland to avoid a reef, extending a third of a mile from the north-east point of Mah-wan ; then steer in mid-channel between that island and Chung-hue island, which lies a mile to the eastward; and after rounding the south end of the latter, if bound for Hong Kong road, steer for the west end of Won-chu-chau or Stone-cutters island.

SAiir-CTBAir, lying 3 miles northward of Lantae, and S.E. 4^ miles from Lintin, is a small narrow island nearly a mile long, with a sharp hummock on its north end.

^ong-ku, about one mile northward of Saw-chau, is higher and more rocky in appearance ; and S. W. by S. from the south point of Tong-ku, and W.bjN, from the north point of Saw-chau, are two rocks above water, abont a mile distant from each island : the western is named White rock from its white appearance. The depths near the eastern sides of Saw-chau and Tong-ku are 5 to 9 fathoms; westward of Tong-ku, 4^ fathoms ; and near the rocks 5 fathoms, at low water .f

* Here H.M.8. Cormorant rode out an easterly gale, in September, 1865, which lasted 48 hours. The anchorage was much exposed, but the holding ground was good, hard, stiff mud mixed with sand and shells.

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IAT» or Tong-ku harbour, bounded by the islands Tong-ka and Saw-chau on the west^ and Castle Peak land on the east side^ is a safe anchorage, and tolerably sheltered from all winds. The best berth ia in about 8 or 9 fathoms, with Tong-ku peak just open of the south end of Lintin, and nearer the mainland than Tong-ku. This safe bay or harbour was named Urmston by the captains of the fleet who anchored there in August and September 1823, at the recommendation of Sir James Brabason Urmston, President of the Company's factory at Canton during the discussion with the Chinese, relatiye to the affiiir of the Topaze frigate in 1821-2, at Lintin; the anchorage was found secure, with smooth water when it blew a gale from eastward. Fresh water was procured in

BlBiMmows. - The approach to Urmston bay for yessels of large draught, is between the east side of the spit extending from the south side of Lintin, and the islands Saw-chau and Tong-ku ; and then north- ward of Tong-ku, the depth there being 7 and 8 fathoms. The passage southward of Saw-chau has only 3^ fitthoms, and that between Saw-chau and Tong-ku 2^ fathoms.

The channel between White rock and the east side of Lintin spit is about 2 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing towards the spit to 5 fitthoms. Working northward, do not stand so £bx west as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to bring the east side of Lintin northward of N.by W. With the south end of Saw-chau bearing E.N.E. and Lintin peak North, a Tessd will be on the southern edge of the spit in 4| or 5 fathoms, sand and mud.

Ktwrnr xbxjutb, lying W.N.W. of Urmston oay, is about 7 miles in circumference, and its summit terminates in a high conical peak. A spit of sand extends about 4^ miles to the southward of the island, having a .depth of 3^ fathoms on its outer part, but only 9 feet within 2^ miles of the island, and rather less in some places. The spit is steep-to on tbe west side, with 10 fathoms near it, and 7 fathoms touching its edge. When within 5 miles of the island, if the yessel is of large draught, do not when . standing eastward towards the spit, bring the west end of Lintin, west- .ward of N. | W., or tack immediately after deepening to 9 or 10 fathoms ; .but in the night do not deepen to above 7 or at most 8 fathoms.

Untlii Bar. - ^A sandbank also extends 13^ miles in a N.N.W direction from the north side of Lintin, and on its northern part is a narrow ridge called Lintin bar, the southern end of which, in 2^ fathoms, beaxs Lintin peak. The least water on the bar is 12 feet, and its northern exid. in 2 J fathoms lies N.W.byN. 10^ miles from Fan-si-ak, with Sam-paxx- chau just open westward of the west extreme of Anung-hoy island.

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The anchorage off Lintin is about 1^ miles from the sandy beach on its sonth-west side, in 10 or 12 fathoms ; under 10 fathoms the water shoals qnicklj towards the island.

Water. - Fresh water may be obtained at the eastern extremity of the beach on the south side of Lintin ; and occasionally a few bullocks and vegetables may be procured from the inhabitants of the Tillage.

**»« - I* is l"g^ water, full and change, at the anchorage off Lintin at noon, and springs rise 7 or 8 feet. The streams run neariy North and South, and the ebb in the freshes sometimes 5^ or 6 knots per hour. In the N.E. monsoon the neaps are very irregular, sometimes only one flood perceptible during 24 hours, with a small rise when the other flood should

rAOT-BX-AX xszAT. - Two rocky islets, the easternmost and largest of which is Fan-si-ak, and the other White rock, lie North 4} miles from the peak of Lintin. When these islets are in one, E. by S. J S., the southern extremity of Lintin bar is on the same bearing. The east side of the channel between the southern extremity of the bar and Lintin is hounded by mud-banks, with irregular soundings of 2J and 3 J fathoms on them at low water.

r&AT, extendmg from the north end of Lintin bar, across the channel to the shoal mud-bank on the west side, and N.W. towards Lankeet island, consists of sand and mud, with hard bottom in some places. The depths on it are 3^^ and 3^ fathoms at low water, and 4^ to 4| fathoms at high water springs ; a vessel therefore drawing more than 20 feet should not pass over it until about, half flood. Close to the northward of this flat, are usually some flshing stakes, with boats made fast to them, and others also between Lintin and Lankeet; care should be taken not to run over the boats, which generally show lights in the night.

XJiXWOBT XB&Ami, N.N.W.^W. 19 miles from Lintin peak, is formed of two hills, sloping into a low point at the west end, where there is a well of fresh water by a small temple close to some trees ; the island at this part is covered with earthen vessels containing human bones. A spit or flat extends S.E. by S. 2^ miles from its south side, with only 2 and 2^ fathoms over it at low water. Between this spit and a long narrow sand to the westward is the Lankeet entrance of the western channels of the Canton river, described on page 112.

ABoboracre In Kankeet road. - To proceed up this entrance to an anchorage in Lankeet road, keep the highest peak of ly-cock-tau just open of the outermost of the rocks projecting from the west end of

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fatbomfl at high water, about 4 miles from Lankeet; aod will cany rather lesa water till nearlj abreast the west end of the island, where she will have about 6 fathoms in Lankeet road. This is a convenient place for a Teasel to moor when circumstances require her stores or sick to be landed. All the space between Lankeet and Ty-cock-tau is shoaL

UMMU»MM^WLM,Vt or Boat isdet, N. bjfi.^ E. 1^ miles &om the east end of Lankeet, ^is small, of middling height, resembling a boat turned bottom upwards, and the best guide for crossing Lankeet flat. An extensive rocky bank, partly above water, projects N.W. from il;, aad joins the shoal bank extending from Lankeet to Ty-cock-tau. There are regular depths of 7, 8, and 9 fathoms to the eastward of Sam-pan-chau.

BXmaCTIOVS to HOVa XOVO or CAVTOV SZVBR tbroaffb X.BIIKA, &AWTAO, mad TJLX-TA-MZ onAMMMJM.* - ^Lema cbaimel formed by the Lema islands on the south, and the Fu-toy group on the north, is about 6 miles wide, and safe to navigate, with depths of 19 to 14 fathoms, soft bottom. This channel should, if possible, be always adopted by sailing vessels bound to Hong Kong or Canton river in the N.E. monsoon, to effect which they ought to make the N.E. head of the Lema islands, bearing to the west- ward. If the weather be thick, and the wind blow strong at East or S.E. it may be prudent to heave to, when land cannot be discerned above about 18 fathoms at the entrance of the channel. If the weather will not permit the vessel to enter the channel, do not shoal under 25 or 26 fathoms, as in these depths she will drift clear outside all the islands.

If, however, the vessel should happen to be near the entrance of the Lema channel in the evening, and a typhoon is expected, she should run immediately for Tytam bay on the south side of Hong Kong, or'lfor the Tathong channel, or the east Lamma channel, as may be most con- venient ; in either of which she will be secured from the tempest, if. an anchorage ia gained before night.

During S*W. or westerly winds, it will sometimes be found diffici|lt ta turn through the Leqia channel from the eastward, as there is generaUy a set from West to East, occasioned by the ebb coming from the west- ward out of the numerous channels, and the flood from the S.W. ; ydth

t The NatOUus of Galcutta, September, 1S02, made Pedro Blanco, and after inxadng to the westward, hove to for the night, keeping in from 18 to 14 fathoms. A strong easterly gale had prevailed in the night, which increased, with thick weather at day- light, when they found themselves close to the east side of one of the rocky islands northward of the Lema channel, on which the vessel struck, and soon went to pieces.

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a Btrong S.W. wind the stream rims about 1^ knots per hour to the eashnu*d, only slacking a little when it ought to change its direction. Pa-toj island maj be approached with safety to a quarter of a mile, and the 'wbole north side of the Lema islands to half a mile.

Tbroayii KAarrAO OHAmmxi. - From about a mile southward of

Pu-toy, a West course for 19 miles will lead to the entrance of Lantao

channel, passing southward of Lamma and northward of Lingting, the

depths decreasing from 17 fathoms off Pu-toy, to 12 and 13 fathoms

soxithwardof Lamma, and to 7 and 8 fathoms as the channel is approached ;

there are 12 fathoms in the middle of the entrance, decreasing to 7 or 8

&thom8 towards A-chau. Lingting, which is of considerable height, and

terminates at the summit in a conical peak, may be passed on either side

as the wind requires. If passing southward, give a wide berth to the

Needle rocks off its north-west point ; and to those off its north point, if

passing northward ; but the channel northward of this island is preferable,

for in dayligbt it has no hidden danger, and a vessel may work from side

to side. In the night do not approach the north side of the island within

I| miles to avoid the two small rocks (page 68), off its north point.

Chi-chau, when seen from the eastward, has a remarkable appearance, and is a good guide ; it makes like a high, round, detached island, with distant rugged land westward of it, which are the islands of Lafsami and Chung-chau. Having entered the Lantao channel, the course through is N.W. by W., and the depths will be variable, not under 8 or 9 fathoms, nor above 25 fathoms. The ebb runs through in strong eddies, particu- larly in July or August, when its rate is sometimes 4^ knots per hour at springs. With a light wind, at times, it is difficult to manage a vessel here ; on some occasions two or three boats, assisted by the sails, have been baffled in their attempts to tow the vessel's head round. After passing between Chi-chau and A-chau, the water will deepen in mid- channel towards Chung-chau and Lafsami, and close to the south-west point of Lantao, are 7 fathoms. Having rounded the point at a moderate distance, steer to the northward for Lintin, or to the westward for Macao road, as circumstances require ; in the latter case the depths will gradually decrease io 6^or 5 fathoms.

In turning through the Lantao channel, when standing northward do not shoal under 7 fathoms in a vessel of large draught, nor pass the line of bearing between the south points of Lantao and A-chau. Between the northern Soke island and the Lantao shore, a good channel one mile wide, may be taken by a vessel when blowing fresh from the northward. In this case, after passing the south point of Fatung, a small rocky islet will be seen in the bay on the southern shore of Lantao ; steer to the nortb- westward until this islet is shut in behind the western point of the bay,

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when keep towards the sooth point of Lantao, and the depth will be 4^ fathoms, mud, between the point of the sandj spit and the Lantao shore.

From the small islet off the north side of Chung-chau, Lintin peak bears N.^E. 14 miles; the sand spit extending off the south side of Lintin is on the latter bearing, therefore a vessel will clear it if this islet is kept S. by E. until Lintin peak bears N. by E., then steer for the west point of Lintin. In a dark night, a N.N.W. or N.W. byN. course (according to the tide) should be steered from the middle of the Lantao channel until the water shoals to six fathoms, then steer North, keeping a good look out for the fishing stakes ; on this latter course, if the water deepens above 7 fathoms, keep a little westerly until the vessel is near or above Lintin, where she can anchor. By not deepening above 7 fathoms, she will not be too near Lintin sand spit, there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to. The ebb tide, from the west end of Lintin to the eastward, sets South ; but on the western shore its direction is S.E.

Tbroofia TAX-TA-MX OHAvmBlta - Proceeding towards the river through Tai-ta-mi channel, between the Lema and Kypong islands, after clearing Cfimbridge rock (page 72), steer northward for Lingting, passing between it and the Samoun group, and then through the Lantao channel ; or pass between the Samoun group and Ai-chau, and proceed either for the Lantao channel or to the N.W. direct for Lafsami. Having approached Lafsami, keep within a mile of its western side, and of the south part of Chung-chau, to avoid the 4-feet needle rock ; after passing Chung-chau, steer for Lintin, or for Macao road.

If the channel be taken between the great Ladrone and Gap rock, or the narrow passage between the latter and the Kypong islands, steer northward, and proceed along the west sides of Ai-chau and Lafsami. Or if bound for Macao road, there is a more direct passage about a mile wide, with 13 fathoms water, between Fak-leak and Chuk-wan, then on the north sides of Tong-ho and Liungnib, and to the southward of Ty-lo, which track lies nearly in a direct line towards the road. Although this channel is safe in the day-time great care must be . taken to avoid the Raleigh rock (page 67). There is a safe passage between the Great Ladrone and Pak-leak, with 14 to 9 fathoms water, but recollect the sunken rock lying half a mile from the north side of the Little Ladrone, and also the Clio rock (page 66) ; a vessel taking this route should pass southward of Potoe.

To OAMTOm Wnm tbroatrb CWBAT 'WBST C«AinNrBXi. - ^This channel, on the west side of the Ladrone islands, is generally used by vessels bound to Canton during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, and to do this they endeavour to fall in with the Great Ladrone bearing about North or N. by E. ; but late in the season when the winds

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indine to the eastward, or at any other time when tbej are expected to come fiiom the northward or eastward, it will be prudent for a sailing veasel to make the N.E. head of the Lema iahmde, and proceed, towards the river by the Lema and Lantao channels, page 86. Here the risk of being horsed to the westward by the freshes setting out of the Great West channel is avoided, and a northerly wind will lead to an andiorage in the river. When typhoons happen on the coast, they generally commence in a moderate gale from the northward, which is a leading wind for these channels, and as the wind commonly veers to the eastward before it blows hard, a vessel with the first of the gale may get well up the river above Lintin, where these storms are less violent than ontside among the islands.

As the approach to the Canton estuary is probably more safe |han that of any other large river in the world, there being no sandbanks at its entrance, and the channels amongst the islands outside being mostly all free from hidden danger, a stranger should not hesitate to push through the nearest convenient channel without a pilot, if the weather is tolerably clear. But the streams must be attended to, as they set in varying directions amongst the islands to the south-eastward according to the prevailing winds ; a strong easterly wind generally producing a westerly current or tide, which abates in strength when the ebb should be setting to the south-east. If an outside pilot can be obtained at a moderate rate he may be useful, to run the vessel into some cove or place of shelter, if a storm should be approaching, or if she be in a disabled state. Macao road should not be used if there is an appearance of bad weather, but she should be run up the river well above Lintin.

About South 30 miles from the Great Ladrone, the depths increase soundings extend on the same meridian to about lat. 20^ N. ; ftom hence they continue westward towards Hainan head ; but converge towards the land, with deeper water eastward of the meridian of the Ladrone islands. A vessel falling in with the land in thick weather may easily distinguish whether it be that of the islands eastward of the Great Ladrone ; for the Kypong aud Lema islands have soundiogs of 23 and 24 fathoms close to ; whereas the islands between the Great Ladrone and St. John to the west- ward haye only 10 and 11 fathoms at a considerable distance outside. These are also large and of regular appearance, resembling a coast more than islands ; but those to the eastward, are detached, high, and uneven, excepting Tam-kam, the largest of the Lema islands, which is long and of an undulating form.

The freshes out of Canton river set almost constantly from the south end of Montanha, along the shores of the islands to the westward, at tha

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rate of one to two knots an hour^. particularly with strong easterly winds ; and although at times there seems to be on the surface a flood tide setting . eastward, or into the entrance of the river, the fireshes underneath continue to run westward, by which sailing vessels are rendered un- govanable^ even in fresh winds. Many vessels from this cause, after getting near Montanha, or between it and Potoe island, have been drifted nearly to St. John island whilst making every endeavour, with moderate winds, to keep their heads to the eastward. Steering, therefore, for the Great West channel, never borrow near San-chau, or the other islands to the westward, unless it is blowing strong from the S.W., to avoid being drifted to the westward. The freshes abate at times, and then weak tides set to the eastward ; but as these are not of long duration, a vessel should keep on 1|^e eastern side of the channel in deep water towards theLadrone islands and Potoe, and anchor instantly if she finds the current drifting her westward.

In the strength of the S.W. monsoon, (as before stated in page 88,) endeavour, if the wind be steady between S.E. and S.W., to make the Great Ladrone, bearing about North, and avoid the islands to the west- ward ; this is the more necessary after the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail, several days together, as they are, more or less, at all seasons. If a vessel falls to leeward about St. John, in September or October, she will generally make a tedious passage to Macao ' if she keeps close along the islands, where the currents or freshes setting » westward will oblige her frequently to anchor; as these freshes prevail only in shoal water, near the islands, the best plan to adopt is, to stand well off the land, and take every advantage of. the favourable shifts of wind, to get to the. eastward. ^

Having passed through the Great West channel, or if the vessel has anchored in Macao road, with a leading wind she may weigh with the ebb, .if she. can haul over north-eastward for Lintin ; fo^ the tide will then act upon her port bow, and keep her off the western shore : whereas, with an easterly wind, the flood is likely to drift the vessel into shoal water near that shore. With a fair wind, steer about N.N.E. ^ E. from Macao road for Lintin ; if it be night from 4^ to 5 fathoms are good soundings ; for at low water springs, greater depth ought not to be expected, until several miles north-eastward of the road.

Turning up against a n(»therly wind on the Jood, tack from the west side of the channel in about 4 fathoms, according to the vessel's draught, - the lead being a safe guide along the western shore, where the bottom generally consists of mud. The islands eastward of Macao road may be safely approached, having 5 fathoms near them, and when past Chung* chau-si, the depth will increase to 9 and 10 fathoms towards Lantao.

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Working hence to Lintin in the night, stand in to 4^ &thoin0 in the west part of the channel, and do not deepen above 7 or 7^ fathoms to the eastward. Here, the tides become stronger as the vessel proceeds

In Macao road, ajid between it and Lintin, the tides are frequently irr^ular, setting in a different direction at the surface to what they do underneath, by which vessels are rendered unmanageable in light winds. The ebb is stronger, and continues longer than the flood ; the freshes often running out b^ow, when a flood tide at the surfiaoe is setting into the river.

xmzv to tiie 80GA YKHII8. - When within 7 miles of Lintin steer for its west point bearing about N.^E., and when abreast the point, run northward in soundings from o to 6^ fathoms : withfi westerly wind, borrow on the west side of the channel ; if it is easterly, keep in 5 to 6^ fathoms with the flood tide. It will be safe to proceed 9 or 12 miles above Lintin, even in the night, with a working wind, the lead being a. certain guide, by tacking from the west side of the channel in miles northward of Lintin, tack in 5^ i^thoms from the east side of the channel, for the deepest water is near the edge of Lintin sand, and if a large vessel begins to shoal on Its edge to 5 fathoms, she will not have room to tack.*

Lantao is frequently obscured by clouds or haze, but when its summit is visible the^est peak of that island affords a good mark for running up this channel in the day. Steering N.byW. or N.byW.-^W. from the west end of Lintin, draw gradually the high west peak of Lantao on .with the west end of Lintin, 'and continue to bring it more^ easterly until it is on with Lintin peak, or a little open eastward of that peak, and keep it so, until the vessel is. more than half way from Lintin towards Lankeet. Then, if the wind is contrary, Lantao west peak may be brought nearly to tlie east end of Lintin, in tacking from the east side of the channel, and well westward of Lintin peak when tacking from the west side ; but on a nearer approach to Lankeet, the west peak of Lantao must not be bn>ught. westward of Lintin peak.

When within 5 miles of Lankeet, the west peak of Lantao must not be brought more westerly than touching the east end of Lintin, when on the west side of the channel ; and to a considerable way open of the same when on the eastern side. Here the depths decrease, with only about a fathom more water on the east than on the west side of the channeL

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A yessel will pass eastward, in 14 feet water, of all the mud banks at the entrance of the Western channels (page 111) between Cum-slng-mun and Lankeet, by keeping the northern and highest peak of Kee-ow island The pilots sometimes get vessels on these banks in the night ; but with those of large draught they are more inclined to borrow close to the east- ward, whereby they have frequently grounded upon Lintin bar ; it will therefore be prudent, when the pilot appears confused or uncertain of his position, to uichor before the vessel shoals her water.

From a position about half a mile off the west end of Lintin, a N. by W. } W. course would lead fair through the channel to the east side of Sam-pan-chau, were the tides to run in that direction ; but from Lintin they set N^.W. and S.S.E. nearly as far as the north end of Lintin bar» and thence to Sam-pan-chau about N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.

Steering northward, with the west peak of Lantao open a little east- ward of Lintin peak, or keeping in 4]^ to 5^ fathoms, Lankeet island will be seen making like a saddle, and shortly afterwards two small islets or rocks will appear close to its eastern end. These rocks will be nearly on with the middle of the opening of the Boca Tigris when first seen, and should not be brought more easterly; nor in working ought they to be brought to touch the point of Tiger island, which forms the west side of the opening, until within 4^ miles of Lankeet ; being then northward of Lintin bar, a vessel may edge over to the eastward. There is no good cross mark to know when clear of the bar ; but a pagoda on the western shore bearing S.W.§ W,, will lead northward of its extremity. From the northern end of the bar, Sam-pan-chau is a little open of Anung-hoy point N.N.W.^W., and the little hill on the east end of Lankeet is

Shortly _ after the rocks off the east end of Lankeet are on with the middle of the opening of Boca Tigris, or rather more westerly, if the vessel is within 6 or 7 miles of Lankeet, Sam-pan-chau will be recognized and will then appear under the land, a little eastward of the high round summit of Anung-hoy, a high, round hill, sloping to a point on the west side, and forming the eastern boundary of the Boca Tigris. Anung-hoy peak in line with Sam-pan-chau humlnock, N. by W. | W., leads westward of Lintin bar, and eastward of Lankeet spit. Witll a working wind, keep Sam-pan-chau between the eastern shoulder of Anung-hoy hiU and the west point of the same ; but that islet must not be opened westward of Anung-hoy point until clear of the north end of Lintin bar.

With an easterly wind, to prevent being set by the tide towards Lankeet, keep on the east side of the channel, with Sam-pan-chau shut in a little eastward of Annug-hoy point, or nearly on with it. When within 4

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miles of Lankeet, a vessel may stand well to the eastward in working, opening Sam-pan-chau considerably westward ,of the point, being then to the northward of the extremity of Lintin bar ; do not, however, stand so far over as to bring Anung-hoy point to touch Chuen-pee, but tack before they come on, for farther eastward the water is shoal. After opening Sam-pan-chau of Anung-hoy point, which with a westerly wind need not be done until abreast Lankeet, steer direct for the land of Anung-hoy, giving Sam-pan-chau a berth to the westward of half a mile ox more at discretion, in 9 or 8 fathoms ; then the depths will be 9, 6, and 7 fathoms to the entrance of the Boca Tigris, increasing to 13 and 15 fathoms abreast south Wantong.

If in a vessel of moderate draught, a cast of 3^ or 4 fathoms hard ground be got before Lankeet is seen, in a clear night, she may be certain of its being on Lintin sand, and will deepen fast on hauling westward into ilie channel.

Tbronffii rAV-sz-AX OHAVirasb. - If a vessel is drawing 23 feet water, it would be imprudent to attempt the channel on the east side of Lintin, it being very narrow just above and about Tree island, with a considerable swell in it when blowing strong from the north- ward. The southern part of the channel between White rock and east side of Lintin south spit, is about 2 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathom8f decreasing towards the spit to 5 fathoms. In working north- ward, do not stand so far west as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to bring the east side of Lintin to bear north of N. by W. When northward of Ton-ku, if the vessel is of 20 or 21 feet draught, keep the eastern shore aboard, avoiding the spits of shoal water at the points of the islands, until off the north end of Mah-chau, the shoal extending from the south end of which will be avoided by not shutting Tree island in with Mah-chau, or by not bringing the highest peak of Mah-chau westward of N. ^ W. ; White rock in one with the north end of Fan-si-ak, is the mark for the south end of Mah-chau spit.

Thence to Tree island, when standing towards Lintin bar or Fan- si-ak bank, keep the lead going, and tack in 4 fathoms or less, accord- ing to the vessel's draught ; but the lead will be the best guide, as the bank is much curved In shape. Standing eastward, do not bring the north or highest peak of Mah-chau westward of South, and when the south point of Sui-chan bears N.E. do not bring the west point of Tree fathoms which extends S.S.E. from that island nearly a mile. Tree island is safe to approach close to the rocks ; but on the Channel banks

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94 THE CANTON BIVEB. [chap. ii.

to the irestward, the water shoab suddenly to 2^ fathoms, irregular soimd- ingsy sand and mud.

When near the west end of Tree island, d6 not brbg it to bear more southerly than S.E. JE,, to clear the edge of the sWe bank. Standing westward, White rock should not be brought eastward of the saddle on the east end of Lintin, or the east end of the fishing stakes No. 8 (in the chart) to the northward [of N.W.byN. the lead not being a Bofflcient guide for the channel banks. If the fishing stakes be not removed, they appear to be a preferable guide to the land mark, being always discernible, but either may be used in clear weather. When within half a mile of the stakes No. 3, the passage becomes wider, extend- ing, from the shore bank to Lintin bar, with 4, 4^, and 4^ fikthoms at low water, shoaling gradually on either side, so as to render the lead a guide in tacking, the bottom being very soft mud«

If close to Tree island with a leading wind, steer direct for the centre of the fishing stakes No. 3, and pass them on either side, as circum- stances require.

There is another range of ^shing stakes (numbered 4), S.W. J W. of No. 8, which will, when near them and bearing South, warn a yessel of her proximity to Lintin bar.

TZDB8. - In the Fan-si-ak channel it is high water, full and change, at Ih. 10m., but the rise is irregular, especially at neaps, the rise and fall being then only 2^ to 3 feet, and 6 to 8^ feet at springs ; velocity from

In February it is high water full and chimge in Cum-sing-man harbour

A vessel proceeding up with a working wind should weigh instantly the tide slackens sufficiently for her to make any progress, in whatever part of the channel she may have anchored. The passage between liintia and Fan-si-ak should not be attempted in vessels of large draught, having

The OHV xzAva or Pearl river, commonly called Canton river, rises about 30 miles north of Canton (or 100 miles from the sea) in two streanois, which unite^at 10 miles above that city; at this junction a long narrowr stream connects it with the North river by two branches, one at Sam-shni, the 'Other 10 miles from that place. The Tung kiung or East river, which falls into it above the Second Bar, drains a large central portion of

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the Ewang-tung proTince^ a sugar [district. The entrance of Canton river, formed between the islands of Chuen-pee and ly-cock-tauy or perhaps more strictly between Ty-cock-tau and the island of Anung-hoj, is divided bj the Wan-tong islands into two channels, the eastern of which Boca Tigris, is generally used by vessels of large draught ; the western is called Bremer channel.*

OBUsir-psB ponrT, the south extreme of Chuen-pee island, is close to a small peak called Chuen-pee hill, and N.N.E. JE. 1| miles from Sam-pan-chau. On the north-west point of the island is a small watch- turret, with a fort under it ; and midway between this point and Chuen- pee point is Pratt rock, lying a quarter of a mile ofi shore, with 6 to 9 fathoms close outside.

Anelioragre. - There is a small bay with sandy beach on either side of Chuen-pee point, and fresh water may be obtained in that on the eastern side ; but vessels of large draught cannot anchor near it, the soundings being shoal on a sandy flat, extending eastward and south-eastward from the point. The anchorage is in 6 to 7 fathoms, about a third of a mile £:om the beach on the western side of the point.

TZBBS. - ^At this anchorage it is high w^ter, full and change, at about

AXBOw BAr, between Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy islands, is very shoal ; from the depth of 5 or 6 fathoms the soundings suddenly decrease to 2 fathoms within a line joining the noHh-west point of Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy point, affording only a harbour fbr boats in Junk creek.

BOTirBK ponrr, the south-east extreme of Ty-cock-tau, forms the western point of entrance to Canton river. From this point to Sam- pan-chau, the west side of Chuen-pee channel is bordered by a shoal flat, over which boats only can pass to East and West Ow-chau, the two small islets lying southward of the point.

ABTTOO-BOT POZVT, the south-wcst point of Anung-hoy island, forms with "Keshen point, half a mile to the north-west, the eastern side of the Boca Tigris. The principal fortifications for defending the strait are built on this face of Anung-hoy, and immediately behind them Anung-hoy peak rises to the height of 1,500 feet. These are the first to attract attention, and consist of a long range of white granite masonry pierced with em- brasures at the water level, with a wall running up the steep in a semi- circle, as a protection from attack in rear.

iVABTTOira zsxiAjnMi. - North and South Wantong are two small islands lying nearly in mid-channel abreast Anung-hoy point, and form

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96 THE CANTOK EIYEE. [ohap.h.

the western side of the Boca Tigris. They bear N.N.W. and S.S.E. from each other, a third of a mile apart, and are surrounded by a bank which extends Ij^ miles in a S.E. by S. direction from the southernmost island, at which distance the depth is only 4 fathoms. These islands are completely encircled with white granite batteries.

i, - ^From mid-channel abreast Sam-pan-chau with a lead- ing wind a N.W. by N. course for 4J miles will lead to the entrance of the Boca Tigris; but with a turning wind be careful ^hen standing towards Chuen-pee not to borrow too close to Pratt rock. When standing westward towards the shoal flat extending south-eastward of South Wantong, tack before the eastern extreme of Tiger island touches the eastern part of the fort in North Wantong.

Tbe 80GA Tzaais has deep water and uneven bottom, and is much contracted by Chain rock, above water, lying E.S.E. a quarter of a mile from the east point of North Wantong; and although the passage between it and Anung-hoy point is too narrow for working a large vessel, she can always back and fill through with the tide. The tide runs strong in eddies, and vessels generally keep nearest the eastern shore in passing. If detained here by the Chinese authorities, the best position to anchor is in 7 to 8 fathoms, about a quarter of a mile northward of North Wantong^ taking care to avoid the Wantong rock, lying North nearly a cable from its eastern point.

. OHAMnL westward of the Wantong islands carries a depth

of 10 to 5^ fathoms, and was frequently taken by Her Majesty's ships during the operations in Canton river in 1841. If intending to use this channel, the first village seen to the northward of Bower point open south of the first bluff point above Ty-cock-tau fort (this latter point has the appearance of an island), will lead southward of the south extreme of the shoal fiat ofi^ South Wantong; and the east extreme of Tiger island just open westward of the west end of South Wantong, will lead along its western edge in 5 fathoms. When abreast North Wan- tong, about 1^ cables from its west point, steer about North to avoid the shoal flat on the western shore.

miTT socx. - This dangerous pointed rock, with only 18 feet over it, mile from the eastern end of North Wantong, with the small round hummock on the western part of South Wantong seen over the western slope of North Wantong (between the small redoubt with a tree on it and the point), and tbe high land of Geefu island touching the western brow of Tiger island. A vessel will pass eastward of the rock by not bringing Sam-pan-chau to touch the east end of North Wantong, until

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she lias approached Tiger island so near.as not to see the high land of Geefu to the westward of it.

L - N.W.JN. If miles from the east end of North Wantong is the Tigers Claw, the south-east extreme of Tiger island, a remarkable high island, called by the Chinese Ty-fu, the summit of which appears deft A shoal extends south-east from the Claw, and at the distance of a quarter of a mile, the depth is only 3^ fathoms. There is a fort on the north-east side of the island. This isUudd, the upper end of which is a remarkable mass of rounded granite with precipitous sides, rises to the height of about 400 feet On its eastern face stands a batteiy similar to that of Apunghoy, which completes the defence of the river

Above Tiger island the river banks become more clearly defined, and assume the character of alluvial flats for many miles.

Bate socik, discovered by the late Captain W. T. Bate, EJ^., in 1857, lies 2 cables northward of the north side of Tiger island, with the fort on that island bearing S.E. ^ S. ; the highest part of the island (eastern summit) S. | E. ; and the north-west extreme of the island nearly in line with a small granite boulder on the summit of the hill on the western shore of the river S.W. | W. It has only 14 feet on it, is steep- to, there being 10 fathoms mud close to the eastward, and 7 fathoms between it and the island. To pass outside or north-east of the rock, keep the east extreme of North Wantong open of Tiger island fort.

To'wxxwci r&AT. - ^About a third of a mile eastward of Tiger island fort, is a projecting elbow of Tolling flat, which together with Towling sand are much increased, and have extended considerably to the westward since the survey of this river in 1840. The sand had become in 1860 an island covered with vegetation, and never wholly under water even at the highest tides. The old mark for the western edge of the flat in 3 fathoms, was Tomb point (the next point north-west of Chuen-pee point) in line with Keshen point S.E. § S. ; but there is now a 1 J-fathom patch outside this line, and Tomb point therefore must be kept well open in passing.

Vessels turning to windward from Boca Tigris towards Tiger island may stand to the eastvirard and shut in the high land of Chuen-pee with Anung-hoy until abreast the south-east point of Tiger island. If of large draught they had better back and All, between the island and Towling flat, as the tides are strong.

The swulSbMb mam is the name given, in the chart of this river by Lieutenant D. Ross, LN., 1815, to a small 2^-fathom bank of hard ground lying nearly in mid-channel, about 4| miles northward of Tiger island.

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08 THE CAinXXK BIVBB. [coap.u.

Since that period Hhe bank appears to have grown np and extended at least half a mile farther south. When soryejed hj Captain Bate, B.N.y in 1857, it was a mile in extent^ north and south, and near its centre, west two-thirds of a mile from Blake point, a patch, Calcutta shoal, was found with only 10 feet on it ; the depths on the other parts of the bank

H.M.S. Calcutta when proceeding up Canton river, 8th November 1856, grounded and remained 13^ hours on this bank. Geefu rock off the east end of Geefu island, bore from it South 4 miles; Saw-shee hill

noovB BAB. - The channel for vessels of large draught becomes very narrow abreast Second Bar creek, on the eastern shore of the river, and the services of a pilot are requisite {see page 102). The Second Bar is a large collection of shoals, 3 miles in length in a N. by W. \ W. direction, lying between Second Bar creek and Second Bar pagoda. There are two channels over it, on either side of the central banks or middle grounds, which have varying depths of 13 to 17 feet on them and several shoal patches of 9 to 11 feet.

nie Western Cluuuiel is about 2 cables broad, and carries 18 to 26 feet at low water ; but two patches in it of 14 feet water lie respectively W. J N. and W. by S. of the opening of Second Bar creek. The west point of Tiger island in line with Grassy Tongue, S.byE. easterly, leads through in not less than 14 feet at low water, touching on the banks.

The Baatem <maiiiiel is always taken by the pilots, as it is easier, more direct, and along the shore. Its southern part is entered at 7 cables above Amherst point ; but a shelf, steep-to, extending 2 cables off the intervening shore must be avoided. Having passed this, steer North a little easterly towards Second Bar creek to get the leading mark on, which is Wantong tower on with the grassy edge of Amherst point, S. by E. ^ E., when abreast Second Bar creek. Hence the channel is only about a cable wide for a^ mile, and this mark will lead through in not less than 17 to 20 feet at low water, provided the vessel be sheered to the eastward about half a cable, to avoid a 14-feet patch, on passing the first little creek, about half a mile above Second Bar creek ; after which the leading mark may be regained, or, the tower kept a little shut in with the point. The banks are cleared when Second Bar pagoda bears W. by S.

BASTBaw CBBBB8 to Tuvo-BVAV. - The town of Tuug-kuan, which lies about 10 miles eastward of Second bar, may be reached by two principal creeks, each of which has several outlets. Sawshee channel is the main entrance of the southern of the two, but it may also be gained from the southward by Chimmo creek east of Towling flat, by Anunghoy creek just above the Bogue forts, and by Junk creek which Ms into

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Anson hay above Chuenpee point. The n(»rthem channel to Tung-knan jnaj he reached ^om Second bar creek, from Tszekee ftnd Escf^^ creeks 2io2\ miles above Second bar, and from the junk passage north of First bar island.

B&nsBni aad ivvABDOJL »AssAcns.r^At 3 miles above Escape creek, and 5^ above Second bar, the river divides into two main branches, the Whampoa and Blenheim passages, which meet again at Honam point, juBt above the city of Canton, and opposite the foreign settlement. By the Blenheim or sonthem passage the distance to Honam point from the junction is 16^ miles, and by the Whampoa or n(»rthem passage 14 miles. Canton lies on the latter below Honam point, and 8 miles beiow the dty is Whampoa, the anchorage for foreign vessels. Above Whampoa the river in some parts is not navigable, even at springs, by vessels drawing more than 13 feet, so that those of heavy draught have to proceed to Canton by Blenheim passage.

rxuav liAM isXiAJTB. - ^At 2 miles above Escape creek, and near the east bank of the river, is First Bar island, low and ^at, westward of which are the four flat islands, smaller but similar, and then the larger Danes Island, the western part of which is covered with hilly ground which marks the position of Whampoa. The four channels between Danes island and the four low islands are shallow and not used by foreign vessels^ the navigable passage into the northern or Whampoa passage being that which is next westward of First bar island, carrying from 20 to 30 feet water.

Vlat xsiand Beacon, to mark the extremity of a mud bank, is on the south-east end of No. 1 Flat island, the one which is next westward of First bar isl^id. It is an open pile construction, with lantern on top, but no light is exhibited.

Vint Bar is formed at nearly half a mile above First Bar island, between a shoal bank of sand bordering the west side of First Bar island, and a sboal spit projecting from the eastern point of the low Flat islands. The

Bmnswlok ^atcbes, on one of which the Brunswick struck in 1798, and the Wyndham was totally lost in 1815, Ue about two-thirds of a mile above the west end of the First Bar island, on the northern shore of the river. The rock on which the Brunswick struck is described to be about half a cable long, N.E. by E. and. S.W. by W., with irregular depths

The gangs of pirates which infest the neighhonrhood of Whampoa, especially about the period of the Chinese new year (Fehmary), are supposed mostly to belong to the villagefi on Escape creek.

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of 8 to 18 feet on it at low water. The Secimd Bar pagoda bore from it

There are channels l>etween the patches, and to the southward of them ; but the narrow 4-fathoms channel x^orthward of the patches, close along the north shore, is most generally used. North Shore pagoda in line with the bluff point inside the Rocky head on Louisa island, N.W. by W. \ W., leads south of the patches, but oyer 15 feet at low water on the edge of the bank off No. 1 Flat island.

ivvABDOA. - ^Above Brunswick patches, Cambridge reach which leads up to Whampoa is clear and deep, excepting that for yessels of deep draught, a shelf that extends northward from the Flat islands, has only 18 feet on its edge in mid-channeL Then is reached the Chinese town on the northern side of Danes island, known to foreigners as Bamboo town. Above this lie the premises of the Union Dock Company, next the hill with a chapel embosomed in foliage at its foot forming the Farsee burial ground, and then the British Vice-consulate perched on the brow of a hill, behind which lie the basins and workshops of the Hong Kong and Whampoa Dock Company. Fronting these is English reach, and above it, south-westward, American reach. Opposite is Sulphur point, formed by the confluence of Elliot passage (of which American reach is a part), and the direct channel to Hongkong. Whampoa new town extends from Sulphur point along the left bank of American reach.

The Aaoiiorare is in English and American reaches, the best position being between the north sides of Danes and French islands, and Whampoa new town opposite. It is a safe anchorage with a moderate tide, in from ^ to 6 fathoms, soft mud bottom ; there is, however, scarcely room for two large ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping, when there are many arrivals, to lie moored in English reach, abreast the - entrance of Junk creek.

TIBB8. - At Whampoa, it is high water, full and change, in the month night tides rise to the same level. From April to October the day tides are the higher ; and from November to February the lower. In May ^nd June, the level of spring tides is 4 feet higher, and that of neaps. 2 feet higher than in March.

IRTBAMVOJL 3>OCX8. - The docking accommodation is considerable, there being eight docks of various classes. The Hong Kong and Whampoa Dock Company have four, of which two are of granite, one of wood, and two mud docks available for small vessels at low charges. The UnicMa.

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Dock Company possess four other docks. The dimennons of the firat are as follows >-*

Do«kC.

Length over an -

Depth oyer sill at spring tides

Dock A, the principal dock at Whampoa^ is on the north-west side of Danes island, nnder the cemetery hill, and was formerly called Couper's dock. It can be nsed as either one or two docks, being fitted with two caissons, and can be pumped out in abont 4 hours. There is a pair of shears, capable of lifting 50 tons, on the jetty alongside which vessels can lie at all times of tide.

Both A and B are, as regards capacity but not depth oyer sill, the largest docks in Chin% and are fitted with every appliance in the way of caissons, powerful steam pumps, &c. to ensure safety and despatch in the work.

Dock C is also fitted with caisson and steam pumps. Docks D and E are mud docks, available for small vessels at tery low rates.

The workshops on the above premises, as regards repairs of ships and steam machinery, boiler, and blacksmith's work, and supervision of ex- perienced Europeans, are equal to those of Hong Kong, as described on

The four docks of the Union Company are pumped out in 5 hours, and capable of taking in vessels drawing 15^ feet at spring tides. They also have workshops comprising the difierent departments of the shipwright, blacksmith, boiler maker, and foundry, and all other necessary appliances for repairs of ships, steamers, and steam machinery under experienced Europeans; also ships' stores. They have a jetty with powerful lifting shears, alongade of which vessels can lie to take out masts, boilers, &c. and a steam tag to tow them to the docks free of charge, and back or to sea at reduced rates.

BIBBCTZOV8 for prooeediBflT to WVAMVOA-^Having entered Canton river by the Boca Tigris, be careful when approaching Duff rock not to bring Sam-pan-chau to touch the east end of North Wantong, until the high land of Geefu island is shut in with the western part of Tiger island. , In passing through the channel between the latter island and Towling flat, observe that Tomb point, on Chuen-pee island, kept well open of Anung- hoy north fort, will lead westward of the western edge of the flat ; and the

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102 THE OANTOK BIVEB. [obcip.ii.^

eastern end of North Wantong kept open of Tiger island fort will lead north-east of Bate rock. With a working wind, a vessel of lafgfe dranghlr had better back and fill through this channel, as the tides in it are strong. After passing Tiger island keep the watch tower on Chuen-pee fort open of Anvng-hoy north fort, until Bower point., th^ efkst .^^eme of Ty-cock-tau, is in line with the eastern side ot Tiger .i^lafid; then steer up the river with this latter mark on, and it will lead in the deepest part of the channel, but nearest to Towling island, in.7,.or B.fiaihoms: water. When the remarkable high part of Greefu is on with thd highest, land to the westward, or bearing S.W., keep more eastward, and open Bower point again. Thence steer to the northward, pasii' on eilher side of the Smdl bar, esnd attend to the soundings on the chart.

The two Fairway marks for crossing the Second bar are given in page 98 ; but the services of a pilot are here indispensable to a vessel of 20 feet draught, unless the channel be previously buoyed ; for the knolls or shoal patches being formed of sand and gravel mixed with mud, are subject to alter in position by the fireshes of the river and the spring tides, which also render the navigable channel changeable. A pilot can be obtained from amongst the fishermen on the spot, who then buoy the channel with their sampans, but sufficient time should be given them to sound with their bamboos and to take their stations properly, or else a vessel is likely to take the ground. Vessels often ground and Ue in a dangerous state for a tide ; and this often proceeds from two or three pushing over together,* as there is no time to be lost after the water has risen sufficiently for a vessel drawing 23 or 24 feet to pass over.

Vessels of large draught proceeding up the river from An anchorage below the Second Bar in the N.E. monsoon, or with a weather tide, ^ should be under weigh by the last quarter flood, to save the tide across the bar ; for the channel between the knolls being very narrow^ they must back and fill through ; if of moderate draught they may weigh much earlier. The difficulty in crossing the bar is in ascertaining correctly the shoal patches on either side the channel, and it will be best to place the boats on them at the first of the flood. When the Second Bar pagoda bears W. by S. the bai- is crossed, and the bottom will be soft and loose, unlike that on the bar^ whidi is in parts hard and stony.

After passing the Second Bar^ keep between a third and half a mile from the eastern shore until First Bar island is approached, when the river begins to be contracted and its navigation requires great caution. When Whampoa pagoda is observed just on with ilie northernmost clump or hill on Danes island, haul out more into the middle of the river to avoid the shoal ground off the south side of First Bar island.

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A9 no Bt& iiitffk»ean be gi^en ibr leading between Fini Bar island andito^astehimosti of the Flat islands, toward^ tbe First Bar, it will be |»tid0nt£bra stranger, if withont a pilots to.bnoy tbe sonth-^ast eadtrems of the spit -extending off the eastern Flat iidand, and also the Broaswick pstolEies; The best.ronfe appears to be, when the south Ghop-hOuse on the southern shore of the riyer bears S^S.W., to haul over to First Bar island to aroid the spit, and ihen steer in about N.W.^N.; pabnng along the western face of the island at about a cable. The open pile beacon on the S.E..^id of No. 1 Flat island marks the extremity of a mud bsmk. When Whampoa pagoda is seen clear to the northward of the Flat isdands, steer to the no(rthem shore, which must be skirted at about half a eabfey pasai^ through tbe narrow 4*&thoms channel noi^ward of the Brunswick patches.

As the niH-thern patch is approached, or when the large house inland, mentioned on page 100, bears about N. by W., be careful in pr^senring the distance of half a cable from the shore, and when the house bears eastward of N. bjE. the danger will be passed. Thence steer towards Whampoa throagh Cambridge reach, borrowing towards the northern shore. Entering English reach the southern or Danes island shore is generally preferred to avoid the shoal flat off Junk and Watson islands, taking care to give a berth to the cluster of rocks, covered at half-flood, near Jardine point, the east point of entrance to French river. The anchorage off Whampoa is in 5 to 6 fathoms, over soft mud boittom; but there is scarcely room for two large ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping, when there are many arrival to be moored in English reach.

POA to CAjrroir.* - ^The lower part of the city of Canton is 8 miles, and the Shamien or foreign concession 10 miles above Whampoa. If proceeding by the Whampoa channel, as this passage is called, it is better to take a pilot for the first time, although for gun-boats the Ad- mindty charts are a sufficient gtdde if no radical changes in the channels of recent occurrence have been reported. Some caution may be required in passing the Whampoa barrier if the tide be strong, in which case it is preibrable to hug the south bank at the mouth of Fiddler's reach. Another part where care is required is just below Canton, where the city is first fully opened out clear of Napier and Euper islands, for a reef extends nearly a cable into the river from the south bank. When, therefore, the small Suburbs pagoda on the south-east or nearest angle of the city wall comes in line with Gough's hill, which is a little to the right of the taUi square, conspicuous red pagoda of five stories, N.N.W. ^ W., sheer out fronft

m a 3 inches. If proceeding to Canton by Blenheim passage, see IXirections on page lOS.

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104 THE OAITTOK BIVXB. [csaf. ii.

tli6 sooth bank into mid-stream. The rod^grofond^abo^tlie Dutch Folty, as the small idand abreast the centre of the city is called, has been recentiij baoyed and lighted, and now therefore presents no difficolly to navigation.

9«Mi voiljr » - fSd CTose to the Dutch Follj are two wooden Imoys to marie the fiur way between some rocks. One is in 8 feet water, painted in red and black vertical stripes, to mark the starboard side of the channel; the other is in 4 feet, with green and black yerlical stripes, to mark the port side entering.

lamMTB aad Baa - as. On the sunken rocks above the Dntdi Folly are three square stone beacons from which, at mghtf Jixed lights are exhibited. Two red lights are on Nos. 1 and 2 red beacons <m the starboard hand entering, and one ^e^n light is on the port hand on No. 3,a green beacon.

OAWTOVtf^The city of Canton, the capital of the province of Ewang- tung, stands on the north bank of the river, about 31 miles above Boca Tigris, 70 miles from Macao, and 74 miles from Hong Kong. It is sur- rounded by a strong wall 5 miles in circumference, the foundation of which is of red feldspar rock, and the upper part brick. The wall varies fixnn 25 to 40 feet in height, and is 20 feet thick, having an esplanade on the inside, and is accessible on three sides of the city.

The city is divided into two unequal parts by a partition'wall6 to 8 feet thick, running east and west, having four gates, and two water gates at its extremities, through which boats pass east and west into and across the new city. The north and larger division is called the old city, the western part of which is occapied by the Tartar population ; the south division is the new city. The suburbs are to the south and west, equal in extent to the walled city, the bouses being built close up to the walls on these sides. The country outside the walls is clear on the north and east. There are 12 outer gates, each defended by a two-storied guard-house which commands the wall on either side, the principal ones having an outwork in addition.

A ditch encompasses the wall, dry round the north sides, which are rather elevated ; nearer the river the ditch and the canals within the new city and western suburb fill with the tide and empty at low water. In the northern comer of the city stands the Magazine or City hill, commanding its interior and the outside surrounding hills on the north ; immediately below it is a large square building of red brick, called the five-storied, pagoda, on the northern and most elevated angle of the wall. Gough fort is outside the city, on the other side of a ravine about 500 yards north.* east of this building, and there is a rather lower ridge outside the north- western part of the wall which it commands. The population of the city fbnd suburbs is estimated at about one million.

TIBB8. - ^It is high water, full and change, in the nver off Canton in

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the N.£. monsoon the tides rise 2 to 3 feet higher in the jiight than in the d^y; bat in the S.W. monsoon the day tides are the higher.*

ne VoMlsB o»aeeesien is on Shamien point, above the city at the south angle of the western suburbs and facing the Macao passage. All the foreign consuls reside in the British concession, which lies to the west. The French concession occupies the eastern comer. It takes the name of Shamien from the mud fiats which existed there previous to 1859, but which were snbsequentlj filled in and an artificial island formed, surrounded by a massive embankment of granite on piles. Its frontage is of irregular oval form, 2^850 feet in length, and its extreme breadth is 960 feet, and of the enclosed area four-fifths has been appropriated to the British Government, and one-fifth to that of France. A canal, 100 feet in breadth, separates the concession from the suburbs. Besides the consular offices f and the residence of the Vice-Consul, there is a church, library, reading-rooms, &C., and there are two cemeteries within a moderate distance of the con- cessions. The Consul, for political piurposes, resides within the city at an official yamun.

Sbamlen Anoborasre. - Off Shamien the river is broad, forming a commodious anchorage for large steamers, the deepest water, 18 to 22 feet and good holding ground, being within 160 yards of the river wall of Shamien, but sailing vessels are restricted to the anchorage of Whampoa.

BuppUeBf Trade* die. - The markets of Canton are well supplied with provisions at moderate prices ; beef, poultry, and fish, fruit, and vegetables at all times, to which are added in winter, mutton and game in plenty.

War and rebellion, the opening of Hankow as a shipping port for tea,' and the facility with which smuggling can be carried on, have robbed Canton of the preeminence it so long enjoyed in commercial prosperity ; of late years foreign trade has declined about one-half, and the native traders are rapidly absorbing in their own hands the dealings which before were the means of enriching foreign houses of business. Tea and silk are the principal exports, the imports are cotton goods, rice, opium, &c.

Climate. - Canton enjoys a much more temperate and salubrious climate than most places situated within the tropics, and neither epidemics nor malaria prevail there. Ip ordinary years the temperature ranges from but these are rarely reached. The seasons correspond with the period of the monsoons, the hot season being from May to October, and the cool

* For explanation of this phenomenon, see " Admiralty Manual," Chapter on Tides.

t British snt^ects arriying at Canton are required by the Order in Council of March 1865 to register themselTes atH.M. Consulate within one month, under penalty of a fine of 10 dollars.

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106 THE CiirrOK B^VBIB. [OHjLP;ui.

season from ml&Octobcir to the ktter part of ApriL The S.W. winds Mt> in earlj in April, bat do not gain hrob until May, when vain becxttnes abundant, and the thermometer rises to 86^, and even higher. June is a dry and sultry month| whilst in July and August freqtt^it jAioW^ri ate of almost daily occurence, which, with the strong monsoon, temper the extreme heat, which averages 80^ to 88^. Septemb^ is again sultry, but the nights begin to grow cool, and October, though warm, is usually not an unpleasant month. The first steady blast of the N.E. mcMisoon, in the early part of November, sending down the temperature to 55°,^ brings it sensation of bitter cold to the constitutions of Europeans, relaxed by the preceding heats ; but the weather of the ensuing months, in which constant sunshine, a moderately cold, but agreeable temperature, and dear skJes- prevail almost uninterruptedly, is not to be surpassed in any quarter of the globe. Ice sometimes forms in Januaiy, and ikhe thermometer has been re^stered at 29°. A fall of snow, 2 inches deep, occurred in February, 1835. Fogs are common in February and March. Great precaution must as a necessity be observed, even by long residents, to avoid exposure to the sun and chills, and this with temperance in diet, will ordinarily ensure immunity from sudden disease. Fever and ague, and sunstroke, are brought on by very slight exposures, and bowel complaints are the natural consequences of imprudent indulgence in fruits, cold beveri^es, &C., and much attention should be paid to suitable clothing. CMorodyne, Lam- plough's saline mixture, and quinine will always be found useful in this and similar climates.

To CAVTOV tiiroi&srii BSJorBBZH ^ASBJLOa. - The Blenheim pas- sage* leading to Canton, which vessels of large draught must necessarily use, was so named from the fact of H.M.S. Blenheim of 74 guns, and drawing 23 feet, proceeding up to Brown reach in 1840, and anchoring there. On subsequent occasions vessels of 21 feet draught, have reached the anchorage below Hamilton creek, 3^ miles higher, and vessels drawing 17 feet have proceeded to Canton. The only two parts where difficulty is experienced are the passage of the Barrier and Parker point bar.

From Escape creek above Second bar, a mid-channel course is pursued until nearing the southern shores of the Flat islands. Close these, keeping very near to island No. 3, and also the south-eastern face of Danes island, but sheer well off as soon as French creek westward of Danes island opens out, and steer well over towards Terrace head in Kellett reach, a hill 147 feet high, on which the ground is cultivated in terraces from base to sum- mit. At the head of Kellett reach is Larkins point, an earth cliff 40 feet

* First discovered to be a ship channel by Richard Browne, Master of H.M.S. CaUiope

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lugb,4aid If ealdee below it is Jtmk . lOdc, Haider #Mer, 120 jntda from the eastern Aiofte.'' Aborre LarkiBft point fishing etakes extend half- waj aaros& the itrer from lite south bank, but they present no obetraction as the ekaainidMis abw akmg the ncMrthem shore for some! distance.

Bremer point, having a group of hills with clift at their base, is next closely ronnded to avoid a shallow middle ground tailing from High island half a mile down stream. High island, of 88 feet elevation^ lies in the centre of the river, narrowing the northern or navigable channel to one cable. The Comus sunken rockj 60 yards from the north bank ftiriher narrows this channel ; it lies S.W. of the highest of the hills of Bremer point, and 1| cables east of the north point of High island which is very steep to. Above High island, is Brown reach which has a depth of 24 to 26 feet, and where H.M.S. Blenheim anchored. Above Galbraith hill point on the south bank of Brown reach the river splits round the low flat island of Changie^an. Senhouse reach, the channel south of Changshan, is seldom used, the deepest water at its western part being only 1 1 feet. The northern channel is Maitland passage which carries deep water as &r«9 the eibort cut which connects it with Elliot passage on the north ; then the depth decreases to 13 feet (20 to 21 feet at high water springs), on either side a narrow middle ground of 10 feet. Keep along the north shore past Changshan, above which more fishing stakes are seen southward of the fiiirway. Above the next hilly ground on the south bank, and between it and Hamilton creek, the river is broad and deep, and without obstruction, and therefore affords excellent anchorage. Above this vessels drawing 18 feet cannot go.

Tbe Barrier. - ^But if proceeding to Canton the deep water must be quitted for a narrow gnlley along the north bank, carrying 10 to 12 fee<^ which leads up to the Barrier passage. Caution is required here for the channel* is irregular both in its conformation and depth, and the middle ground of 7 to 9 feet which bounds it on the south is of the same character ; this shoal, which extends from the Barrier to fully half a mile below it, being entirely northward of the centre of the river.

^e Barrier is an artificial obstruction of stones and piling oonstmcted to prevent the approach of large ships to Canton, during the First China war. Becently, however, the passage through it by the northern bank has been widened to 100 feet, and deepened to 11 feet, besides being- rend^ed more practicable by the establishment of improved beacons and

* The deepening and videning of the Bairier passage will probably have the effect of improring this channeL

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Bonnonnted by a black disc 2 feet in diameter have been recently erected on the n<»th side of the Barrier. A scale to show the depth of water is affixed to each beacon, and lights will be shown at night to indicate tlie passage. Before the improyements there existed two wooden beacons on bases of masoniy on the north side of the passage, a few yards from the

The course for the first half mile aboye the Barriev lies along the north bank, and there are shoals of 7 to 9 feet in the centre of the riyer, caused by this obstruction to the current, which are probably of a shifting

v«rk«r »«iat Bar is situate at a crossmg from this branch of the riyer into that from Canton of which EUiot passage leading to Whampoa is a continuation. It is shoal in consequence of being out of the scour of the tides of either branch. Its shoalest part, 8 to 9 feet, is between Parker and 49th points. Vessels of 17 feet draught haye passed oyer after examination and buoying of the best channel.

Maoao Vort VMsava is a reach of 8^ miles, leading straight up from Parker point bar to the foreign concession at Canton. Macao fort, a picturesque object on an islet in the reach, may be passed closely on the east side, but N.N.E. of the northern extremity of the fort lies a sunken rock exactly in mid-channel, between the fort and the shore. After passing this keep in the centre of the river for there are rocks below water on either side, close to the bank ; and abreast Birds' Nest fort, just below the Honam suburb on the east bank, two other sunken rocks lie close together, 130 yards from the shore.

The ebb stream in Macao fort passage, at springs runs frx>m 3 to 4 knots an hour.

The anchorage off Shamien'has been already described on page lOo.

Corvettes and gunboats have ascended the various arms of the river several miles above Canton.

EOT ^ASBAOa is an intermediate branch of the river leading to Whampoa from Canton, and is indeed the direct continuation of the Macao fort passage. It was originally a fine, deep water channel, but the large barrier 6 miles above Whampoa, of similar construction to those in the other passages, has caused the bed of the river, for one mile on either side the barrier, to silt up, and not more than 8 feet can with certainty be carried through the barrier channel, which is close along the south bank. At Whampoa, Elliot passage is entered from American reach. Both this and other intersecting creeks in the vicinity may be navigated with the aid of the- Admiralty chart, having been surveyed in 1857.

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rji of tbe CAWTOv and wssv mivBM.* - Between Macao, Sam- shtdy and Canton, on the western side of the estnary of Canton river, is a large tract of allnvial land, the delta of these rivers. A network of streams and canals intersect this space, which, from the greater elevation of the land on the Si kiang, discharge themselves into Canton river, and thus, together with the Tung kiang or East river, which drains a largo central portion of the Kwang-tung province, flowing into Canton river at its eastern dde, cause the great volume of water in its estuary so dis- proportionate to its size. The greater portion of the delta has been reclaimed in times long past, bj embankments, and the process is being continued at the present daj.

The principal channels traversing this delta fall into the Canton estuarj, between Cum-sing^mun and the Second bar ; besides which some small upper branches about Fat-shan, fall into the Canton river between Canton and the upper part of Blenheim passage. The principal of these streams, ti!ie Tam-chao channel, traverses the entire length from Sam-shui (at the junction of the Si kiang with North river) in a south-east direction, with branches to all the principal towns and districts in the delta. In the central district of Shun-tuk nearly all the channels are connected, and one, which passies south of the town of Tai-lung, joins them to the Si kiang 2 miles south of Kum-chuk# Besides these there is the narrow channel used by the Nemesis (page 110), which, entering from the Broadway 5 miles above Moto fort, runs through Liau-si-wan, and joins the Wang- mun or first channel north of Cum-sing-mun.

Between Cum-sing-mun and Lankeet are the Wang-mun, Tam-chau, and ly-cock-tau channels. They enter the west side of the estuary through extensive mud banks, their course running through level lands dotted with many island-like hills. The waters are kept in their channels by artificial embankments, without which almost the whole of the rice fields would be flooded at high water. The rice lands are principaUy east of Tai-lung ; west of that town the land, although having the same features (level with island-like hills) is more elevated, being above high water level, and cultivated with mulberry plants.

The embankments are wide, but being planted with fruit trees, with here and there the houses of labourers, leave' but a paved path, about 6 feet wide, for foot passengers. The rivers and numerous canals are the ordinary mode of transport, as every field is approachable by a canal.

* See Admiralty Chart of Canton river and its Western branches, No. 2,562, scale, nis0*46 of an inch. These Directions were for the year 1859.

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The towns are abo entered by water, the ehannels being staked across ; in some cases an entrance is left wide enough to admit a laige junk, the opening being closed by rude gates, as at Tam-chau ; in others these barriers consist of rows of stakes, with their heads above high water, closely driven across the whole breadth of the river, leaving but a narrow and circuitous channel near one bank, through which the current runs with great strength, and often the stakes are level with low water.

The general course of the Tam-chau channel is from the north-west, as is also that of the Ty-cock-tau channel, which falls out of the Saiwan channel below the town of Saiwan. The Saiwan channel is entered from Canton river, north of Whitcomb ishuid ; the course up it is more westerly, and it joins the Tam-chau channel north*east of Tai-lung. Moneypenny creek leads from the latter into the Fat-shan branch above Haycock

The Tai-lung, which is south of the town* of that name, runs west from the Tam-chau channel, and by a winding course joins the Si kiang by the Junction channeL The Wang-mun receives three branches, the Nemesis from the south-west, and the Sailam and Eerr channels from the north-west; the latter also joins the Si kiang through the Junction channel. Besides these main channels are smaller channels at right angles to them, forming connexions at different points of their course. The principal of these have been explored, and all found to have more than 6 feet in them at low water springs. ,

VXDBS. - In the month of February it is high water, full and change, in Cum-sing-mun harbour at 12h. 6m«, and atLankeet island at llh. 20m. In March it is high water in the Tai-lung channel (Kerr point) at Ih. 30m., in the Wang-mun at llh. 50m., and in the Junction channel at about 2h. At all these places springs rise 6^ feet, neaps 5^ feet, and

In the Saiwan, Tam-chau, Tai-lung and Junction channels the flood sets to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward towards Canton river. In the summer, when the day tides are the higher, it appears to be high water nearly all day at springs in some of these channels, owing to the day tide only falling about 2 feet.

VB1IEB8Z8 CKAinraK. - The following extracts are selected from Sir. J. J. Grordon Bremer's dispatch, dated March 1841, to point out the track of the H.C. steam vessel Nemesis, when forcing a passage from Macao to Whampoa via the Broadway : -

" On the 13th the Nemesis, with boats of Samarang in tow, weighed from Macao road, and proceeded over the flats between Patera and

* The name of Tai-limg in the local dialect is Shontuk. /

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Macsrira islande into the Broadway. On reaehing Hok-tan point, at the entrance of Nemesis channel, Tei-y6t-kok» a field battery reeently con- stmcted of 14 guns, was seen strongly posted on a rising ground on the left bank of the river (surrounded by overflowed paddy fields), which enfiladed the whole line of the reach leading to it. On entering the reach ihey observed on the right bank a new battery, scarcely finished, with ten embrasures, but without guns, and Hok-kang fort dose to it, well built of granite, surrounded by a wet ditch, and mounting 14 guns and 6 gingalls. Abreast of these (which they flanked) the river wtfs strongly staked

The Nemesis having got through the centre passage of the stakes, which was just wide enough to admit of her passing, arrived at 4 p.m. off the large provincial town of Heang-shan. The dense population thickly crowded the banks, boats, junks, housetops, the large pagoda, and surrounding hills ; both sides of the river were packed with trading craft of the country, the centre of the river, which is very narrow, having merely suflicient space to allow the steamer's paddle-boxes to pass clear of the junks moored to its banks. At 6 p.m. the steamer passed on into a narrow shallow channel, scarcely more than the breadth of a canal, where she anchored head and stern for the night. At daylight on the 14th, weighed and proceeded up the river in the steamer's draught of water, and not broader than her own length, grounding occasionally on both sides ; at 7h. 50m. arrived at the large village of Hong-hau, with a fort of the same name at the upper part, which flanked a strong and broad line of stakes 20 feet wide, completely across the river, filled up in the centre by large sunken junks laden with stones. After making good her passage through the stakes, which was effected after 4 hours' incessant labour, she arrived at 4 p.m. off a military station, where she anchored for the nighU

At daylight on the 15th, the steamer continued her course upwards, and at 7h. 30m. arrived off the large village of Tam-chau. On moving up to TegneU, a large town on the left bank of the river, three forts were passed, all dismantled and abandoned, and on proceeding up to Whampoa three more dismantled forts were observed. At 4 p.m. the Nemesis came to in that anchorage, having in conjunction with the boats destroyed five forts, one battery, two military stations, and nine war junks.'*

juirx F&BBT nrTmiurcB. - All the banks at the entrance of the channels, between Cum-sing-mun and Lankeet island, are cleared to the eastward in 14 feet by keeping the northern and highest peak of Kee-ow island west of S. by W. ^ W., and the summit of Lankeet west of

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The Jank Fleet entrance has 15 feet in it Steer in witib Crag island bearing N.W. by W., until the highest peak of Kee-ow is S.^W. ; then steer N.W. by N. until Cone island summit 'is just coming on with south end of Off isUnd, W. | N., and Flat island with east side of Mud island, when steer N.W. ^ W. to pass about 3 cables off Crag island. From this the course into the Wang-mun is W.|S. 3 miles, and then W.^S. 3| miles to the branching off of the various channels ; the mud banks on both sides are steep-to, but the south was the most to be avoided some years ago as it was then being reclaimed; beyond this the chart is a sufficient guide.

TAM-OMAV amJkMMwau* - ^Entering this channel, from off Crag island steer N.W. 2| milcfs, until the summit of Off island is on with the south- west point of Crag island^ which mark clears the spit formed between this and the Wang-mun in 9 feet, - 10 feet being the greatest depth across the channel at this point ; steer up with the above mark until the chart is the best guide. The mud bank on the north-east side of this channel is steep-to, and should be avoided, as it is being reclaimed. If wishing to proceed by the channel to the northward of the mud bank, from 3 cables off Crag island steer If miles, with the eastern ends of Crag and Cone islands in line, then N.W. 6 miles will place the vessel well in the Tam-chau channel ; or if wishing to proceed to the eastward through the Swatchway, which has 6 feet in it, having run If miles on the above line, steer E.fN., feeling the way with the lead, altering course to the northward until Cone island summit bears S.W., when steer N.E. into the Lankeet entrance.

The mud flats that are being reclaimed have stone groynes thrown across them, the outer extremes of which are at the edge of the deep water, and being covered except at low water, are dangerous to naviga- tion ; they are generally marked with bamboos, with the leaves left on the upper ends, which when withering, look like yellow flags.

Tbe Tam-Cban Cliaanel is the largest stream in the delta, and die-- charges itself into the estuary of the Canton river about mid-way between Lankeet and Cum-sing-mun. The rocky hummock, 50 feet high, opposite Saiwan is an excellent guide into it from the Saiwan channel, the second turning to the southward being taken ; the flrst turning being into McCleverty channel, which is very narrow in sontie parts, but a good gunboat passage, carrying 6 to 26 feet water.

JUksnLBMT nTRAVca, with 17 feet in it at low water, is entered with highest peak of Ty-cock-tau just open of the south-west extreme of Lankeet N.W. % N. This mark leads westward of Lankeet spit ; but on nearing Lankeet give it a berth of 3 cables to avoid the rocks extending

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-S.S.W. 1^ cables from its south-west point. Having passed Lankeet, steer N.W.byN., until its peak bears S.E.^E«; then steer up for Black point, which may be passed at any convenient distance, llie lead will be a guide to avoid the bank which extends from Lankeet to Ty-cock-tau ; but the bank in the middle of the channel has but 6 feet on it, and is steep-to. There is a deep water channel on the south-west Bide of this middle bank, but as there are no leading marks it had better not be used. Having passed Black point, the vessel will be fairly in the liver, and the chart will be a sufficient guide.

CAVTOir to SABK-8BUZ.* - The Haughty, Forester, Staunch, Starling, Watchful^ Clown, Kestrel, Woodcock, and Janus gun vessels under the eommand of Capt. J. J. M*Cleverty, C.B., left the anchorage off Canton, 16th February, and proceeding down the river entered the Saiwan <;hannel by Hills passage, which passes directly east of the Second Bar and Si-chi-tau hills. These passages meet at Forbes point, whence the Saiwan channel falls into the Canton river by three outlets, the one passing north of Whitcomb island (which is flat) being the best channel. A spit firtretches half a mile off Forbes point to the south-east, on the tail of which are only 6 feet.

SiLUBT'Ajr CBAinrBK is easily navigated for 10 miles until nearing the town of Saiwan, which may be known by its pagodas, where the stream -divides, into two channels roimd Saiwan bank, a large middle ground of hard sand and rock, on which several of the vessels grounded both going tind returning. There is a rock awash on its eastern extremity, which is in mid-stream.

Saiwan bank extends about \^ miles from the east point of an island -which divides the stream above Saiwan. It will be avoided by keeping the south shore of the river aboard in approaching Saiwan, and hauling -close round the first point westward of the Ty-cock-tau channel. From the north side, off Saiwan, the bank itself may be crossed in 6 or 7 feet at low water with the hummock 50 feet high on the opposite shore l>earing S. \ W. Eastward of Saiwan, the Mount and Ty-cock-tau channels lead out io the westward of Ty-cock-tau and Lankeet.

Vi&x-Ziinro CBAmrsK. - At 5 miles down the Tam-chau passage, the squadron turned abruptly to the westward round a sharp point (Bullock point, off which a spit extends 3 cables) into the Tai-lung channel.

Tal-lunff RoeiM. - ^After proceeding 3 miles by a broad channel an obstruction was found in a bed of rocks which bar the river at the western point of Brine island, which is flat, with Tai-lung pagoda bearing

* Xiieatenant C. J. Bullock, H.M. surveying vessel Dove^ Fobvai:/ 1359.

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the bank nortli of these rocks which hare about 4 feet water on them, and lie abreast the entrance of a small creek with numerous trees growing on its bank, the only ones in eight for some distance, and form a first-rate mark for the yicinitj of these dangers.* This passage, which is about 50 yards wide, the junks use.

Between these rocks and Brine island is a 12-feet passage, very narrow and difficult, and made more so by the chow-chow water. There is deeper water in the narrow channel south of Brine island, but the banks of the island must be kept aboard to avcnd the Tonze rock off the spur of Single- tree hill on the south shore, and another on the same shore abreast the entrance of a cutting through the island* In this cutting are 3 to 4 fEUhoms, but it is very narrow at its nortib end, where the Woodcock rock (dry at low water) lies nearly mid-K^hannel ; pass west of this rock.

cnowB mooka. - About 2 miles above the Tai-lung rocks^ on passing the mouth of the large branch towards Shuntuk, keep over to the north shore to ayoid a bed of rocks on which are only 3 feet at low water, lying rather soath of mid-channel ; they are connected with the south shore about d cables above the point. To the south is the large town of Yunki^ and in front of it on the bank is a small fort commanding, the Shuntuk branch. A mile up the latter branch on the east bank near a amall fort* is a landing place, from which a road, 6 feet wide^ paved with flag stones, leads to the walled town of Tai-Iung or Shuntuk. The inhabitants of this town and district have always been ill disposed to foreigners, on which account a military demonstration was made on the return voyage bj marching troops through the town.

At 3 miles west of Yunki, the river trends to the south, the channel being very narrow, and after a sharp turn to the east suddenly emerges into Yellow channel, a broad reach, the connecting link of five channels.

xa&H CKAinraXi flows from the .north end of the Yellow channel tu the south-east, leading directly to the sea by the Wang-mun. There are two dangers in this channel about 3 miles below Yellow channel and 1^ miles below the entrance of the Yunki junction, where the channel will be perceived to split round a low island, 4 cables north of which, and stretching half way across the river from the east bank, is the Hand rock of only 5 feet water. After passing this, the north point of tbe island must be steered for, passing close to the westward of it, to avoid the Mohr rock, of only 4 feet water^ lying W. by N. a cable from the point and rather nearer the west bank. Thence a run of 4| miles brin^ to the entrance of the Wan-tung junction with the Tam-chau passage. This junction, which is clear and has not less than 7 or 8 feet water.

^ Cruise of the Whanq)oa steamer, November 1862.

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nms up towards a range 370 feet high, under which stands the town of Whampoa. The Ynnki junction has only 6 feet at two places, but saves a distance of 3^ miles in proceeding to the south-east ; near the Tam- cfaau passage it divides into two streams, the northern of which must be

8AZ&AMC CBAVSTBA, flowing from the south end of Yellow chann^ also gains the Wang-mun by a course of 19 miles (equal in length to the Kerr channel). It has two bars of 6 feet water at one and 4 miles respectively from Yellow channel, and which are above and below the town of Sailam, to the north of which this channel passes.

jujicriov CBAjnrxxi joins all these passages with the Si kiang. It is the northern of two, divided by a flat island, the sonihem, Jtinetion bend, being longer and shoaler.

Vorester mockd - Proceeding to the westward by this channel, as soon as tbe western end of Junction bend opens, hug the north bank to avoid the Forester rock, awash at low water, with 5 to 7 fath^)ms on either side. The best guide for its position is the commencement of some rocky hills which abut on the north bank of the river, and abreast which it lies ; it can be passed on either side, but it will be better to take the north side, as the channel is wider. -

BCaiininsr Bar. - Opposite the lime-burnings village of Mahning, under the western part of these hills, is a low island with long spits from either end. The channel lies north of it, and continues close along the northern bank for a mile, where th^e is a bar 6 or 7 feet at low water, the river being very shallow right across. This also lies 2 miles east of the Fist cliffs, which mark the entrance of the Junction channel from the Si kiang.

8.ai»-SBVZ to FAV-sBAsr and CABTOST. - The Fat-shan branch, which is the direct channel between these places, is said not to be navigable by vessels drawing more than 4 feet water ; there has been, however, no means of verifying this report. About 2 miles below or eastward of Sam- shui, on this branch, stands the flourishing commercial town of Sai-nam (Hsi-nam^, which probably might easily be reached by small river steamers. The rise and fall of tide here appears to be 5 or 6 feet.

CAVTZOB', - The above directions have regard to the state of the river in the years 1857-59, and it is more than probable that many alterations have taken place since that date, especially at the mouths of those branches and creeks which fall into the estuary or lower parts of the Canton river.

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The Si kiang or West river, also called the Blue river, is 500 miles in length from itssom-ce to its moath which is 9 miles S.S.W. of Macao, and it receives in its coarse some large tributaries, and with them drains the entire province of Kwang-si. At Sam-shui^ 75 miles from the sea, where its course turns from east to south, it receives the waters of the Peh-kiang or North river which rises in the northern part of the province of Kwang- tung. From the North river, and from the West river below Sam shui, are several communications with Fat-shan, Canton, and other parts of the Canton river, which are described in page 113.

BBOASWAT to flAM-SHVZ.* - From the Broadwaj (page 58) the Si kiang is entered by the Moto Mun (or Moto mouth) which is bounded