Villa directory, 1835

31EDbt.D0SaSTSn

W^Wa'fe^

Duke Street, Lambeth.

PAt. Office Ll> .

Physiology of Bulbs 2

Fibrous roots 11

Of the Colour of Flowers 20

Of the Scent 29

Of Soils 31

Of Coverings 40

Of Insects 45

Of Diseases 50

Cultivation of the Tulip 51

Exotic Plants - Hot-house 189

Green-house 209

Forcing-pit .236

Of the Lapidium, on Rock-work 238

Of the Aquarium 240

Of the Physiology of Trees 241

A List of Border Flowers 279

Floriculture has become the study and amusement of all ranks. Is it because it em- bellishes the dwellings of the rich and great, or forms the gayest ornament of the villa ? Or is it because it receives the regard, and employs the pencils, of the most refined and fairest of Nature's works? Yes; for all these; but, most of all, because it decorates, while it endears, the poor man's cottage.

To the superior classes of society, who have " all appliances and means to boot,'' the know- ledge and possession of flowers form but a small part of their enjoyments ; but the humble and homely man, who, when relieved from the ema- ciating toil and noxious air of a factory, betakes himself to the refreshing exercise of raising his favourite flowers, feels new life ; his attention is

drawn to objects which are beautiful in them- selves, and to results the most innocent and ra- tional. Turbulent emotions can hardly disturb the mind which is intent on rearing tender seed- lings ; the very expectations of success alleviate, if they cannot remove, the cares and crosses of life ; and while such employment, as amusement only, refines the mind, it adds not a little to the real enjoyment of rational existence.

The knowledge of this fascinating art is mostly confined to professional men, or lies hidden in a thousand volumes, beyond the reach of the humble though ardent florist. He, and he only, needs the assistance which is practically offered in the following pages ; which, though written chiefly for those who are neither pro- fessional nor opulent, it is hoped will be not unworthy of a perusal by all who are interested in the subject.

As to the ability of the writer for such a task, he may be permitted to say, that the experience of fifty years, directly and indirectly, in the cultiva- tion of flowers, is at least something in his favour.

PREFACE. vii

But, independently of this, it is impossible that he should have been contemporary with a Maddock, a Hogg, a Sweet, and many other eminent modern florists, without knowing somewhat of the art. Where his own knowledge or practice may be defective or confined, his judgment at least will enable him to recommend with safety and direct with propriety.

How this will be done remains to be seen. His intention is to condense the whole system of professional floriculture into a concise compen- dium, which will embrace every thing essential to the subject: and, as it will also contain direc- tions for the propagation of all sorts of tender exotic flowering plants, it will be particularly ser- viceable to those who have rare and valuable

Before entering upon the methods of culture and manai^ement necessary for the different bed, border, and stage flowers intended to be briefly set forth in the pages of this work, it may be proper, perhaps, to advert to some circumstances which belong either to the knowledge of the plants themselves, or to particulars relative to their general treatment. By so doing, repe- titions will be avoided, and the directions will be less encumbered by collateral observations.

As the principal part of our bed flowers are bulbs, it may not be irrelevant to describe the constituent parts of these curious vegetable bodies. Every florist should be acquainted with the physiology of the plants he cultivates ; for though not so absolutely necessary, perhaps to successful management, it may neverthelessi

be useful in enabling the practitioner to account for many circumstances which will occur in the course of his practice.

Botanists have classed bulbs into the different distinctions of scaly, coated, solid, and caulinar. A scaly bulb is such as the common white lily. It consists of a vital membrane, called the radical plate or basis. This member appears to consist of an indefinite series of dividual germs, which are annually brought forth in succession. The first, or highest in order, is, in the autumn before it is developed, composed of a surrounding en- velope of thick fleshy bodies, like scales. These scales are abbreviated leaves ; the outer ones are

stationary, doing the office of hybernacla ; while

the inner are attached to the flower-stem, rise therewith, and are expanded into full form dur- ing the spring and summer. From the lower part of the radical plate, and particularly from its edges, the roots are produced ; which descend into the earth in search of the nutriment required for the expansion of the plant, and which mostly die off during the repose of the bulb.

While these processes of the senior part of the radical plate are developed in the air, and the radicles or fibres in the earth, the next vital prin- ciple of the incipient series becomes every day larger in size, swelling and protruding into form its imbricated envelopement of scales, resembhng a short cone, its apex containing the embryo fructification of the following year. Besides the second of this aggregation of principles, the third, fourth, or even more (according to the vigour of the plant) of the series, are sometimes produced, and which take the name of offsets, which may be separated without injury to the plant. This vital organ always appears as belonging to the largest individual of the train, continuing to produce and throw off progeny ad infinitum.

This curious organisation of the bulb is, when duly considered, truly astonishing! that a ve- getable body, no bigger than a grain of mustard, should contain a train of distinct germs without number, and, in favourable circumstances, with- out end; and which are always in a gradual train of progress; the first fully developed to

perfection, and perishing this year, to be suc- ceeded in following years by the junior successors in endless train !

A coated or tunicated bulb is exemplified in the hyacinth. This is a distinction without a difference ; it being only a pecuhar modification of the foregoing. The bulb being formed by the gouty bases of some of the last and this year's leaves, embracing those, together with the stem and flower, which are to be expanded in the

These bulbs have also a radical base or plate, which produces the proper roots belonging to the senior portion of the plant then in the course of developement ; but which are deciduous soon after the decay of the stem and leaves. Thus shewing, that each division of the bulb is fur- nished with its own radical base, roots, leaves, stem, flower, and fruit.

In the case of these or similar bulbs, if in any year they are permitted to perfect their seeds, the viviparous powers of the system are less active ; their formation, satisfying as it were the impulse

of reproduction possessed by that generative organ. , On the contrary, when no seeds (which are the oviparous produce) are perfected, the effort at reproduction by offsets is increased. This observation should be always kept in mind by the florist, in order that he may have re- course to it when necessary for the purpose of increasing either seeds or offsets, as he may wish. Solid bulbs have been described by botanical physiologists, and the tulip is given as an in- stance (Principia Botanicd). But this is a mis- take ; the bulb being evidently composed of ab- breviated leaves, enclosed within a thin integu- ment or covering, similar to the hyacinth, only fewer in number. These leaves are mostly elongated, and accompany the rising stem to which they peculiarly belong ; in which effort they become exhausted, and die along with the stem, or when the seeds are ripe. During the growth of the parts just mentioned, as well as of the roots which supported them, the next year's bulb is formed to carry on the succession. It has been advanced by some writers, that the

principal use of the expanded leaves is to elaborate nutritious materials for the formation of the suc- ceeding next year's bulb ; or, that the substance of the old is somehow transferred into the new one. This idea is at least questionable ; because the bulb of the tulip lying- in a drawer, where no developement or expansion of leaves can take place, will, notwithstanding, put forth its new offset bulbs, with no other assistance than what its feeble fibres, produced at the same time, can collect in this unnatural situation ; and if it be intended to produce a numerousprogeny of offsets, half the old bulb (the upper half) is cut off before it is planted, to produce this effect. Young tubers, as the potatoe, are produced without the assistance of leaves. True it is, that when a part, or the whole organisation of a plant is in motion, there is a reciprocity of assistance from any one to all the others ; but this does not appear to be the peculiar office of the leaves more than it is that of the roots, if indeed so much. Checking th€ oviparous principle will stimulate the viviparous, or vice versa. But, except re-

ducing the number of parts or ramifications of a plant for the benefit of the remainder, no kind of mutilation can be serviceable.

Bringing to perfection the roots, stem, leaves, flowers, and the new bulb or bulbs, is the effort of the radical plate every year; it being the radius from which they all diverge. There they previously exist, and, after complete develope- ment, all but their seeds, or succession-bulbs, vanish away.

Caulinar bulbs are so called, because, instead of being upon or under the surface of the ground, they are produced in the air and seated on dif- ferent parts of plants producing them. They are frequently seen on the flower-stems of the ge- nus Lilium, protruding from the axils of the leaves from which they are deciduous. They partake of the conformation of both seeds and bulbs, possess their essentials, and become perfect plants. Bulbs are said to be buds under ground ; so buds may be called bulbs out of the ground. There cannot be a more natural definition ; both may be transferred from one station to another

uninjured, and both contain the pre- requisites of perfect plants. The stem-bulbs of the lilly, as they take the usual place of buds, may very naturally be considered as such.

Bulbs and buds may therefore be considered as synonymous. The first only requires to be placed in the soil to produce a perfect plant ; the second to be inserted into the bark of another tree by the skill of the inoculator, whence it is developed in perfect form.

Other instances of aerial bulbs appear on the tree onion, and on several others of the same tribe. These, however, are no other than the seeds commencing growth before they are sepa- rated from the seed-vessel. Though this vivi- parous property is constantly seen among the onion tribe, and particularly in moist seasons, it is also casually observed in other kinds of plants ; even common wheat will sometimes f^prout before it is perfectly ripe.

But the most remarkable instance of the for- mation of bulbs is that mentioned in the Trans- actions of the Horticultural Society, stating,

that from a broken leaf of the Lachenalea discolor, perfect bulbs were formed from the oozing sap ! There are other instances of this generative power of plants, as exemplified in the Hcemanthus, the malaxis, and ornithogalum. Buds are always seated on or proceed from the woody or vascular tissue of the plant ; and those above-mentioned, though not woody, contain vascular membrane in their leaves, partaking of the nature of stems ; these, therefore, when under favourable circum- stances, or thrown out of their regular course of developement by accident, exhibit those un- common modes of reproduction.

The other descriptions of flower-roots are the tuberous and fibrous. Tubers, according to their form and divisions, are characterised by different appellations ; as irregular, truncated, digitated,

The irregular tuber is exemplified in the ane- mone. It increases itself by the protrusion of blunt processes from the first seed-tubercle, each containing buds which in time come into action. The vital principle is not always seated

at the point of these divisions, but on the sides ; from these the leaves and flower-stems arise in greater or lesser numbers and strength, according to the size and health of the principal tuber. The fibres for collecting food issvie from various parts of the tuber, and die off annually.

The ranunculus presents what is called a digitate, or finger-formed tuber. These finger- shaped appendages are produced in succession ; and seem to be depositories of the food of the plant. The crown divides itself by lateral branches from what may be called its shoulder ; the young offsets being almost always somewhat higher than the parent when this happens to be placed too deep, or lower, if not deep enough. When these offsets have formed one or two fingers, they may be separated from the original, and henceforth become distinct plants.

The truncated tuber is shewn in the poly- anthus and auricula. That of the former remains in a compact form, throwing out radicles below, and its leaves and flower-stems from the crown above, developing themselves in succession.

The tuber of the latter is more elongated, rising out of the ground and increasing itself by side- shoots crowned with leaves, which, being slipped off, become new plants.

^-. The bundled or pendulous tuber is that of the Dahlia^ &c. The lateral tubers are vivi- parous progeny, and are produced at the same time the principal is developed, each having one or more buds on or near the apex.

"" Fibrous roots, or those having neither bulb nor tuber, are well exemplified in the pink and carnation. From the under-side and edges of the crown, thread-like fibres descend and spread themselves around ; they are also divided and subdivided, in their progress, into very many slender filaments. The crown of such kinds of plants is a flattened conical body, composed of many smaller ones, the bases of partly advanced or incipient shoots, each surrounded by several pairs of radical leaves, which mostly remain sta- tionary on the body of the parent plant. The younger leaves are seated on, and rise in pairs with the flower-stems; these last being elongated

by the growth of the internodial parts. Accord- ing to the strength or age of the plant, a greater or lesser number of flower-stems rise, blow, and die. The rest remain till the next or following years ; and of these layers, cuttings, or pipings, are made for the purpose of propagation.

All roots, whether designated fibrous, bulbous, or tuberous, put forth thread-like fibres, which are the chief agents for collecting the nutritious qualities from the earth for the use of the plants. They are of very curious and delicate structure, impatient of dry air, or of any change of tem- perature or humidity. Their growth is always cotemporary with the other motions of the plant, and, indeed, the ascending and descending ex- pansion of vegetable life seem to receive counter impulses from each other. Fibres cannot be produced, it appears, without some internal force or excitement ; so neither can any material ex- pansion take place in the air but by their as- sistance. The tender shoots and some of the fibres of shrubs and trees become woody in time ; but, in most kinds of bed and border flowers,

the active fibres are renewed and shed annually. Some are thick and of considerable length, as narcissus and hyacinth ; others are extremely

It has been a question among florists, how far the flower and leaves of a plant are nourished by its bulb or tuber, that is, whether they yield nourishment as well as protection. The outer coverings of narcissus, hyacinths, bulbous iris, &c. appear to be only the remains of former or unexpanded leaves, which continue to act as a covering, as before observed, till the slough of the radical plate from which they sprung falls off. The interior of these bulbs is occupied by the flower, stem, and leaves, in the winter ; all of which are expanded in the spring and summer. As these go forth, their former space is gradually filled by the next year's bulb. Now, all these expanding parts being previously formed, their developement cannot be said to depend entirely on themselves, but on some other part of the system which can assist their expansion, namely, the roots, which imbibe elemental food. Can

the growing parts derive any benefit from the outer covering, except protection ? most probably none. With the new bulb the older one, which is in the act of expanding, has no other con- nexion than being seated on the same base.

From the fibrous roots chiefly, and from the qualities and influences of the air on the exposed parts, are derived all the nutriment required by the expanding parts, as well as the smaller por- tion required by the incipient bulb. When the stem and leaves are withered, their bases are compressed and pushed aside by the new-formed bulb, and their wasted remains are lost in the exterior envelope. The tulip is not, like the foregoing, constantly invested with the remains of former leaves ; they are completely exhausted in the summer growth, and the new bulb is only left covered by a thin integument.

The changes which take place in permanent tubers, such as the anemone, are not so easily detected as those in bulbs. That they are not diminished in volume by the production of their summer growth is manifest from the circum-

stance, that they are increased in magnitude during that period. It is true, that the places of the first developed buds are the first to decay ; but then the new buds become more numerous and dispersed over the enlarged body of the tuber

Fugitive or annual tubers are such as the orchis. They are perennial by succession, not by duration, like the anemone. A single tuber, before its developement, contains two distinct principles ; the first is expanded in the air, to produce seed ; the second is formed into a new tuber in the earth, to be perfected into leaves and stem, &c. the following year. When the first has ripened its seed, the whole dies ; leaving its successor completely formed, to undergo the like changes in due time ; so that, in fact, it is only a modification of perpetual reproduction to continue existence.

But all tubers, whether permanent or fugitive, are furnished with active fibres, which mainly, if not entirely, assist in furnishing the necessary supplies for expansion of the plant, whether in the air or in the earth.

The duration of flower and other roots is commonly designated by the terms annual, bien- nial, and perennial.

Annuals, properly so called, are such as per- petuate themselves by seeds only ; the whole plant dying when these are perfected. Some of this description, however, may be perpetuated by art, perhaps, for ever, were it a necessary ex- pedient ; for instance, the balsam among flowers, and the melon and cucumber among cultivated fruit. Annual bulbs are exemplified in the cro- cus ; and annual tubers are such as the orchis and potatoe. In these instances the identity vanishes ; that is, the tuber of this year perishes along with the leaves and stem, while a new tuber or tubers are formed. Certain parts of almost all plants are annual or temporary as to existence ; the fibres, perhaps, of all plants which are seasonal ; - bulbs and tubers as above noticed; - the flower-stems of all perennial herbs ; - and the leaves, flowers, and fruit of shrubs and trees. We remember no instance of biennial roots in the flower garden ; but, among culinary vege-

tables, the turnip and carrot, tubers differing only in form, are examples. If the seeds of these plants be sown when Nature intends they should, viz. when they are ripe, the plants are half formed in the autumn of the first, and perfected in the summer of the following year. It is said that the size of these bulbs or tubers are en- larged by the action of their system of foliage ; this generating and ^A/-oz67«g- down supplies which are destined to swell the bulbs and perfect the seeds in the ensuing season. For this purpose it is said the leaf-stalks are provided with de- scending sap-vessels in the first, though they must be unnecessary in the second, year of their growth. The knowledge of this remarkable change in the petiole of the leaves is a discovery of microscopic examination. To naked practical eyes this formation is never visible ; and when this doctrine is practically considered, we must conclude therefrom, that all individual plants, having the largest growth of leaves, must also

have the largest roots. But the reverse of this

is the case, especially with regard to the two roots above mentioned, as well as the radish and many others. The last-named tuber, and turnip also, are either annuals or biennials according to the time of the year they are sown.

Perennial flower-roots assume very many dif- ferent habits. By duration, as the anemone, which is propagated by enlargement of the tuber, in which there is an annual subdivision of the crown. The ranunculus is perennial, partly by duration and by offsets. The hyacinth, tuhp, &c. are perennial, from containing in their ra- dical plate an interminable series of individuals, which are developed in succession. Fibrous- rooted flowers are perennial by multiplication of their crowns, diverging from the first centre.

The modes of increase are also various. Dis- tinct tubers are in some instances produced on the lower part of the stem, and just above that of the former year, as crocus, gladiolus, &c. At the lower part, as in some sorts of arum ; - from the body in irregular processes, as anemone ; -

at the shoulders, as ranunculus ; - and at the edges of the radical plate, as in bulbs and many other herbaceous plants.

That the flower-stem rises from, and is closely connected with, the crown of the plate in nar- cissus, is manifest from the circumstance, that if the peduncle or flower-stem be forcibly pulled out of its socket before the flower expands, and immediately planted in the ground, it will not only produce fibres to enable it to perfect the bloom, but also be based by a new bulb, which will become a perfect plant.

Bulbous-rooted plants, which seldom produce offsets, may be excited so to do, as before ob- served, by slicing- off the upper half of the bulb. This mutilation, taking away the demands of the flower and leaves, gives an energy to the vivi- parous principle which sends forth little bulbs from the sides of the plate, as in hyacinth, or at the margin of the outer coat, as in hsemanthus.

Colours are said to be the gift of light, or of the form of tlie reflecting surfaces, or rather of the position of the atoms which compose the surfaces of bodies. The same substances reflect different rays of light according as they are changed in position, exterior form, or constitu- tional texture. Natural productions are variously composed, and accordingly reflect almost all the various rays which compose the stream of light. Hence the variety of the chromule, or colours of flowers, and of the different shades of colour in the same flower. And though the substance of a variegated petal appears to the eye as perfectly uniform in its texture, and though no microsco- pic assistance can detect the difference in the coloured matter, yet we may be certain that a difference exists, and also that it is a transferable quality. The least pressure or touch on a de- licate vegetable body instantly changes, in some cases, one tint to that of another.

We are almost ignorant of" the cause of these different conformations. Philosophers assert that not a particle of light can be lost, but only changed by entering into chemical combination with other bodies, and producing, by means of oxygen, a certain acidification of the colourable recipients. Florists have long wished for the power to change, as they could wish, the colours of their flowers. Some approach has been made towards the accomplishment of this desirable faculty in some few cases; and there is no doubt but that, in time, such discoveries will be made as will in some measure invest the florist with this necessary knowledge.

By art we can change the colours and forms of flowers, and give new qualities to fruit, by the well-known expedient of cross impregnation (which shall be fully described in the sequel) ; but in the case of full flowers, which rarely ad- mit of such manipulation, recourse must be had to other expedients, and which, it is presumed, will sooner or later be furnished by the excellent science of chemistry.

The running of fine double flowers, that is, suddenly returning to their whole or original colour, has long been the plague and puzzle of florists. They have never been able to account for the circumstance satisfactorily. Some ima- gine that the change is caused by too much or too rich dress ; others assert that an over-lean or sandy soil produces the same effect ; and it appears clearly proved, that in very dry and warm summers such mutations of colour take place, even more extensively than in ordinary

As relating to this circumstance, may be men- tioned a very general opinion amongst the culti- vators of flowers, that the richer the soil the deeper will be the tints of the bloom. The co- lour of the hydrangea hortensis can be changed by the qualities of the mould in which it is placed ; and the natural colour of the common primrose is very soon changed to a pink or yel- lowish brown by being planted in cow-dung. On this account it is, that the pure droppings of animals have always been preferred as a priuci-

pal ingredient in flower composts ; because ob- servation and experience have proved, that the tints of flowers become more vivid from the qua- tell us that oxygen gas gives colour and scent to flowers and leaves, as well as to every other part of vegetables. An analysis of the compost in which they succeed best would greatly assist the florist ; indeed, it may be presumed that chemis- try applied to floriculture would be productive of the best results. I know not a better o})por- tunity afforded to a chemist, who may be fond of flowers, than the usual custom of growing bulbs in water. With them he might try many ex- periments, by impregnating the water with va- rious chemical bodies, and marking the results. I have never tried such experiments myself, but recommend them to the notice of the curious.

The mutability of the colours of flowers in cultivation has been long noticed by naturalists. M. DecandoUe, a French botanist of eminence, has written on this subject; and has particularly

marked the transitions of one colour to anothen

" The colours of flowers are variable, but only within certain limits. Lively yellow are the least variable ; dull yellow in general become white or red, but never blue ;" and adds, that it is not likely we shall ever see a blue Dahlia.

In proportion as plants are cultivated, and undergo the constant and various manipulations of the florist, so are they changed in habit and colour. Bulbs, as being- of all others most easily transported, and yielding- readily their fine con- spicuous flowers, have always had an extra share of the care and regard of mankind. Placed in closely planted order in the garden, they imparted and received all the chances and influence of cross impregnation by accident. As favourites, they had always the best and richest composts to invigorate and encourage them, and in which various qualities existed that would change their natural hues, or add to the brilliancy of their

ciently account for the vast variety of forms and colours among; our stage, bed, and border flowers now in cultivation ; and from these consequences it may safely be predicted, that all our new or lately introduced bulbs, still bearing their natural forms and colours, may be, by artificial manage- ment, changed and broken into all the variations of colour, of which, according to M. DecandoUe, they are susceptible.

In former times, when the botanical philoso- pher was called upon to account for the variega- tion of the leaves or flow^ers of plants, he answered that it was owing to a disease in the habit. Jf it be a disease, it is a mild one ; the growth or stature of the plant is not affected ; and it is not until it gets aged that the imputed malady generally disappears. Like a disease, it is trans- ferable from one plant to another ; and must be either a malformation of the structure, or a change of the qualities of the sap. If of the former, the change of tint, which depends on form, may be rationally accounted for ; but if of the latter, it

becomes a puzzling question, as connected with other physiological facts.

In breaking flowers by impregnation the fol- lowing means must be used. Any flower of a fine form and size, but destitute of high or deep colour, is fixed on to be improved ; and also the high-coloured flower whose tints are wished to be imparted. The two parents are such as it is likely will blow on the same day. If both are well watered (if needful) the day previous, it will assist the operation. Soon as the plant destined to be the female opens its blossom in the morning, let it be immediately deprived of its own stamens by a pair of fine pointed scissors.

Soon as its stigma or stisrmas are fullv de-

veloped, which may be known by their glisten- ing appearance, bring the ripe stamens of the intended male parent, and therewith dust and cover the stigmas of the female, and immediately shade from direct sunshine, and shelter from wind, if either be necessary. This should be repeated several times in the course of the same

and following' day. If the impregnation has taken place, the flower will soon fade ; but if not, it will remain longer in vigour ; in which case the stigmata may be again dusted with pollen to ensure success. The pod or pods so impreg- nated should have every care bestowed to bring the seeds to perfection, by being kept guarded from accidents and from exhaustion by other pods on the plant.

Should seeds come to perfection, be sowed, grow, and be reared to a flowering state, the major part of them will be found to have inherited the form and size of the mother, and blended with or wholly of the colour of the father plant. In most plants which have been subjected to this process, the result is very uniformly as above stated. It is a curious and interesting expe- dient, and particularly useful to the commercial florist. It gives scope for the most extensive improvements in floriculture : it presents a pros- pect of how much Nature may be varied and improved by art, and of the flower-gardens of futurity, which will be embellished by new de-

scriptions of floral beauty, never hitherto con- templated by the most enthusiastic of Flora's

All flowering- plants which perfect the two most essential parts of fructification, viz. the stamens and stigma, whether single or semi- double, are capable of being fecundified in a lesser or greater degree by each other. The families of lilies, pinks, &c. &c. are particularly susceptible of such manipulation; and though the Dutch, French, and several English florists have brought cross-impregnation to great perfection, the art may be said to be still in its infancy.

The aim and objects of the florist are very different from those of the mere botanist and such as are admirers of simple unassisted Nature only. By the latter, double flowers are considered monstrous - as aberrations from the simple elegance of Nature. But as admiration is be- stowed on every branch of imitative art, why should not the talent and ingenuity of the florist receive his share of commendation for the pro- duction of realities, which is so readily given to

and lavishly bestowed on pencilled representations of the same objects? Monstrosities in animate nature can yield no pure pleasurable ideas ; they are only valued, from motives of curiosity, for their singularity as a lusus naturae ; but such incidents in the flower-garden are surely admis- sible ; for there they are only an exuberance of elegance, in forms and colours ; in short, an excess of sweetness. Flowers, indeed, may be uninviting or uninteresting ; but they never can be positively ugly.

The fragrance is one of the most attractive and agreeable properties of flowers. Some plants emit an odoriferous effluvia from their leaves and stems at all times; but it is chiefly while they are most interesting to the sight that they are also most dehghtful to the smell. Many flowers are scentless, and several are disagreeable ; but the

great majority of them, if not extremely fragrant, are always in some degree refreshing to the sense.

As the atmosphere conveys this quality to a considerable distance, it must be a fugitive body sufficiently material, though invisible, to be in- corporated with common air in a gaseous or other highly refined state. It seems to be yielded most intensely from the centre of the flower ; hence it has been supposed to be a kind of vapour from the honey or nectar; but it is also contained in the other parts, as detached calyces, petals, stamens, style, and pericarp, as well as the seeds, which carry with them the aroma more or less intense.

Scent may be discharged and transferred by contact, detrition, maceration, dilution, &c., and combined with other substances, in which it may be preserved ; of course, it is intimately united to the essential oils, aqueous juices, or fibrous components of the plant.

The state of the air has considerable influence in regard to the intensity of floral scent. In a fine, still, dewy morning, the air is as it were

surcharged with it ; but soon as the suq's heat increases evaporation, or should sweeping- winds prevail, the scent is dispersed far and wide.

A curious circumstance, lately noticed, shows that the fragrance of flowers is capable of being exalted by qualities placed, or which happen to be, in the near neighbourhood. Onions growing near roses improve their scent. This seems to be a proof that there is an intro-susception of the extraneous quality ; and, moreover, confirms the old idea, that strong or pungent applications to the roots exalt, not only the colour, but the scent also.

It has been noticed, of the common ever- flowering Chinese rose, that, when first introduced, about 1793, it was, as the little darker- red one still is, almost scentless ; though now, 1829, with many of its varieties, highly fragrant.

The surface of our planet is composed of various descriptions of matter, all arranged and

disposed by the action of fire and water. These deposits declare the universality, force, and direc- tion of a general mighty current, and also the courses and effects of partial currents, generated while the waters were receding from the deluged earth. The eastern sides of all mountains, hills, or any considerable elevation of surface, are less precipitous than the western ; the latter being more abrupt and washed bare by the general current, which evidently flowed from the west. Hence we find the finest of the detritus of the antediluvian surface carried to, and deposited on, the eastern slopes, especially that description of soil called loam. It also appears that, during the time when the flood was passing off, partial cur- rents were in action, falling from the higher to the lower ground. The larger valleys were partly formed by, while they conveyed, the larger currents ; receiving the inferior streams along their sides ; these forming smaller valleys, ravines, and all those beautiful undulations of surface which exist at this day.

The depth and rapidity of a current gives cha-

racter to its channel. If deep and slow, whatever particles of earth it contains are deposited in the consistence of mud. If shallow and rapid, the lighter earthy matter is washed away, and the bottom is covered with stones, which become boldered by their action on each ether. So the snrface of the earth is now found to be sand, gravel, loam, clay, or bare rock, according- to the depth or rapidity of the currents which passed, and in passing deposited them.

Although the general surface was formed by the action of the deluge, there has been formed, since, other descriptions of soil, which are parti- cularly useftd in the cultivation of flowers, and which will be noticed in their place.

Sand. - This is composed of stones of the smallest dimensions, equal in size and figure, semi-transparent, and light enough to be carried along by action of water, which washes it clean from other earthy matter, and deposits it in beds below the shelves of the channel. It is a residuum from lighter earths, or the detritus of rock or gravel, separated by a lively current,

and precipitated when the current is in a certain degree moderated. It is found of many different colours ; contains but little vegetable food ; but is an indispensable component in all composts. The pure white, or lightest coloured, usually found on commons, is the best for the florists and all horticultural purposes : the deep-brown or black, often containing ferruginous qualities, is hurtful to most plants. Sea or river sand may sometimes be used with propriety and ad- vantage when pure pit sand cannot be had.

Clay - In its general character, is composed of very minute particles of earth reduced to their ultimate degree of fineness ; consequently closely compacted, adhesive, impervious to air or water; hardens in the sun, and burns to a red earth. Clay is changed into loam by cultivation, and the addition of sand, lime, and other friable sub-

Loam. - Soils, commonly so called, are supe- rior to all other for the purposes of the florist. It is a well-proportioned mixture of fine clay and sand, containing as much of the former as

gives mellow compactness, and no more of the latter than makes it sufficiently absorbent of water and receptive of every influence from the atmosphere. It is usually found of considerable depth, and reposing" on rock, or clay, and some- times, though more rarely, on gravel. Loam, in its natural state, is of various colours ; on some elevated situations it is red ; in valleys, it is almost black; but on gentle declivities, pale brown or hazel. That best suited to the culture of flowers is found in old pastures, on commons, and in natural woodlands ; either composing the surface, or in pits of considerable depth. When obtained pure from such wastes it is called maiden loam, because it has not been exhausted by crops, and because it contains a certain quality which has yet no name among cultivators ; a quality, which is, beyond all others, favourable to vegetation - this luxuriating when that is pre- sent, and faihng when it is fled. This maiden quality exists in different degrees in all kinds of loam, and indeed in all kinds of soil when first broken up.

Marl - Is a species of clay or loam mixed with lime, and often \ery suitable for forming heavy composts.

Bog, moss, or ijcat earth - Is not a diluvial deposit, but an accumulation of decayed vege- table matter, in hollows of stagnant water. This should be very cautiously employed by the florist, and never but as a medium for other qualities, after its own hurtful principles have been dissipated.

Moor earth - Is that thin turf of fine sand and decayed vegetable matter found on com- mons or waste land where heath usually and naturally grows. This is the favourite soil of a very numerous and beautiful division of plants, and is an indispensable auxihary of the florist. Where it cannot be conveniently obtained, it may be w^ell imitated by mixing equal parts of fine white sand and leaf mould.

Leaf mould. - This is composed entirely of rotten leaves, decayed wood, twigs, bark, and other wreck of vegetation. It may be found in old saw-pits, in woods, or procured by collecting

leaves in the autumn, keeping- them heaped to- gether in a pit or shady place, and, if occasionally moistened with manured water to hasten decom- position, a most valuable material would be ob- tained for every purpose of the florist.

These are the various soils and substances which Nature presents to the horticulturalist, and of which, and other substances, he compounds his composts, according to their nature and capa- bilities of receiving assistance from art. That different plants require different descriptions of soil is an universally acknowledged fact. When a plant is first taken into cultivation, the culti- vator generally takes a lesson from Nature, parti- cularly as to the kind and qualities of the soil of the native habitat ; rightly judging that his artificial compost shoald be similar, in order to expect and secure success in the management. And though an exact resemblance in constitu- tion and quality would be sufficient for the mere existence and ordinary growth of the plant so translocated, yet the florist is not merely content with its existence : he will study to pamper it

into extraordinary growth - to increase the mag- nitude of its flowers - heighten or vary its colours - and augment the number of its offspring. For these purposes, he supplies his favourite, not only with the simple materials of its native bed, but each constituent in increased proportion.

The proper apphcation of these succedaneums is the result of observation and experience. It is a specific portion of horticultural knowledge which has descended from former to the present race of florists ; and that it may be more widely known, and handed down to posterity, is one purpose of this little work.

The pre-requisites of flower-beds and com- posts, are depth, friability, and necessary rich-

The practice of trenching the sites of flower- beds to the depth of three feet is found to be of great service ; not that any of the fibrous roots can reach so low, but because the bed should be quickly drained after much rain, and that in dry weather the roots may be invited to run as deep as they have a tendency to go

There is another reason for deep trenching", which is no doubt as beneficial to flowers as it is to all other plants ; viz. they receive a greater share of that genial moist warmth which is at all times rising from the interior of the earth to its surface. This is a circumstance not enough attended to; and by many practitioners quite unheeded : it is, nevertheless, a great assistant to vegetation. According as we descend, the temperature increases. In the winter and spring months, it is by several degrees warmer at the depth of three feet than at or near the surface. The ground being opened to that depth, therefore, permits the ascent of this warm steam in cold weather, and allows it to rise like a refreshing vapour when the weather is hot and dry ; in both seasons of much advantage to the

Friability. - That flowers may have every en- couragement from the constitutional texture of the compost they are placed on, it is prepared by being compounded, aerated, and screened, till it is free from stones, clods, &c. and all of a uniform

consistence. It should not be liable to knead in working, nor run together under heavy rain. By the addition of" sand, rotten dung, or leaf mould, it must be sufficiently porous to receive, and as readily discharge, any excess of water, as well as allow the penetration of every quality from the air, which is beneficial to plants.

Enriching. - The high fertility of the soil in- tended for flowers is one of the principal pro- visions to be made for their prosperity. In the compost every ingredient should be present that experience has discovered to be useful, and every quality added which successfid practice sanctions, or even what rational ingenuity may suggest. The luxuriance of the plants depends on the suitableness and temperament of the compost ; and the richness of the tints depends on the qua- lities contained in it.

For the defence of fine bed-flowers from in- clement weather, and to preserve them in beauty

as long as possible, the florist who wishes to excel in the art, and derive the utmost satisfaction from the pursuit, should provide himself with every necessary appendage for the purpose. The means of temporary protection against rain, hail, or snow, and awnings for the preservation of the full-blown flowers, are both necessary.

Stages, as well as beds, require these apper- tinents. Few lovers of flowers, who take delight in their cultivation, can grudge the expense of proper means for both shade and shelter. Com- mercial florists have arrangements for these pur- poses on an extensive scale, embracing all the advantages of convenience and utility : the ama- teur, or flower-fancier, adopts as much of these contrivances as is sufficient for his more limited

For all bed-flowers, particularly hyacinths and tulips, the beds should be surrounded by boarding from twelve to thirty-six inches high, to give, for ease of examination, the necessary elevation to the flowers. Staples driven in at the corners and alone; the sides of this boardinc:

serve to admit wooden or iron hoops, which, connected along the centre and at the eaves with slight laths, form a sufficiently firm and effective frame to bear any covering of mats or canvass.

Carnation stages are either single or double ; that is, having one or both sides composed of graduated shelves. In the one case, a walk in front is sufficient ; in the other, the walk is carried all round. Those for auriculas are similar ; both being raised on feet, each of which stands in pans of water, to prevent the visits of creeping insects, which very frequently molest the florist.

When the fohage of the plants has advanced so far as to be in jeopardy from frost, &c. the hoops are placed, and the coverings got ready to be employed as the weather directs. Tulips are, much more than others, liable to be injured, es- pecially during the months of February, March, and April. They are then most easily damaged by hail, or by water resting near and afterwards frozen round the flower-bud ; and, though every care should be bestowed to protect the plants

from such casualties, yet they must not be de- prived of the full air too long at a time, as this would injure by enfeebling them. So much is over-covering to be guarded against, that some most inteUigent cultivators use only small -meshed nets as a defence, which they maintain is suffi- cient against every change of weather.

When the flowers begin to show colour, pre- parations must be made to erect the awning. This is intended to shade them from the sun, and shelter them from high winds. The frame should be as light in its construction as is consistent with its stability against blowing weather. It is either a permanent erection of slender columns, eaves-plate, rafters, and ridge-board, or a tem- porary framing of similar scantlings, screw-bolted together for the purpose. The former are pre- ferred by the commercial florist ; the latter by private growers.

No directions need be given for a permanent structure that any common carpenter can sup- ply and execute. But for those who only need a temporary thing of the kind, the following

description of a very suitable and convenient one may be useful.

The bed is surrounded by a fine g-ravel or sand walk, tv/o and a half feet wide : on the outside of the walk, oaken trunks, sixteen inches long, sunk and firmly rammed in the ground, their tops level therewith. These trunks have each a capped stopper, to be put in when the frame is taken away; they remaining- always in their places, and serve as sockets to receive light columns six feet high, turned out of three-inch- square stuff, having a two-inch-square tenon to fit into the trunk, and also a smaller tenon at top, to pass through the eaves-plate, and also receive the foot of the rafter which rests upon it. The rafters meet on a ridge-board to which they are fastened by a screw-bolt and nut. Besides the corner columns, intermediate ones are added according as the length of the bed requires.

The canvass for the roof is in one piece, fixed by its middle to the ridge-board ; the two sides being moveable on rollers or otherwise, and rolled

up or let down at pleasure. The ends and sides are closed by curtains, and hung on headed studs driven into the end rafters and eaves-plate, by eyelet-holes worked in the upper leech of the cur- tains ; at the bottom, they are fastened down by tenter-hooks or ties. Such a frame and avv'ning;, if care be taken to lay it up dry in a spare room, will last for many years; and, when in use, may be made, by ornaments fixed at the ends of the ridge and at the tops of the columns, not at all an unsightly object, even in the flower-garden.

The florist has continually to guard against the depredations of enemies that feast on and disfigure his choice flowers. Snails {Helix) and slugs {LimcLx agrestis) are the most common and destructive to both flowers and foliage. They are easiest got rid of by watering the ground or places where they harbour with lime or salted

water; care being taken that the last be not too strong, nor reach the roots of the plants in any great quantity. Another most effectual remedy s dusting the plants and ground among them with hot lime. The most convenient way of doing this is by putting recently slacked lime into a small bag, about eighteen inches long, made of thin canvass, and filled about half full. This, held by the mouth in one hand, and quickly jerked towards the plants, a cloud of the finest of the lime will be forced through the bag, and, reaching every cranny, will fall hghtly and equally on every surface. This will drive every slug, snail, and earth-worm from the place, or make them retire as low as they can into the earth, where they will remain motionless for several days ; nor will they again venture out while the lime retains any portion of its caus- ticity. This dressing repeated occasionally, and especially after rain, wall keep all such depre- dators at a proper distance. Dry oat or wheat chaff laid round favourite plants is also a great baulk to the snails or slugs in their motions.

Two species of wire-worms, as they are called, prey on the roots of flowers. One appears to be a minute species of Scolopendra ; the other is the larva of the springing beetle {Elater castajieus?); and a third I have lately noticed, as destructive to tulips, is a Styphalinus. I am not acquainted with any application which is either fatal or noxious to those hardy worms. Lime or salted water is the only thing- I would suggest to offend them : only, if applied sufficiently powerful for this purpose, it risks the well-being of the plants. But, as the former of these insects are mostly seen in half-decayed nodules of vegetable or animal matter, and the latter often in the fresh loam, complete aeration of, and rejecting recent animal substances from the compost, are the only precautions to be taken to banish these plagues, as well as many other species of ground insects.

Woodlice (Oniscus armadillo) burrow about the roots of flowers, and appear to gnaw the epi- dermis of plants. An old shoe, filled with hay sprinkled with sugared water, forms a good trap for them. This also acts well as a lure for ear-

wigs* (For/icula auricularici) , which are very de- structive to the blossoms of stage-flov/ers. Both these are, in some measure, guarded against by setting the stage feet in pans of water; but, as earwigs fly when young, they can easily alight on the plants. Yet it is only when they are old that they are so voracious ; and then, as they never fly, the pans of water so placed may be useful.

The green-fly {Aphides) frequently seat them- selves on flowers, particularly the carnation. They are easily dislodged : but the means are not a pleasant application for objects whose high recommendation is their scent. An infusion, the

* Earwigs can only be got rid of by capture. Bean- stalks or reeds are too fragile and perishable for the purpose. I recommend, for the preservation of wall-fruit (and flowers also), a trap made of twenty tin tubes, one quarter of an inch diameter, each having a stop or division in the middle, and eight inches in length, all soldered together in a plane, side to side. This, fust dipped in honeyed or sugared water, and placed close to the wall, behind a branch, will at once attract the insects to feed, and induce them to remain in the lubes; out of which they may be shaken into a pail of hot water, as often as necessary. Such traps will cost about four shillings each, or according to size.

powder, or smoke, of tobacco, are all fatal to these honey- dew- making insects. In this case, the florist's duty is the same as the fruit-grower's : they both should endeavour to prevent the attack rather than wait to perform a cure. If the insects appear before the flowers, tobacco may be used without fear of injuring their sweetness: and, whether they have showed themselves or not, a good fumigation about a week before they blow will probably keep the in- sects off during the bloom. Anticipating thus the attack of the fly is an excellent expedient in the culture of fruit, as well as of flowers ; and, were it a rule in practice, constantly and timely observed, many beautiful flowers and much fine fruit would come to perfection which are every year spoiled and lost. The fumigation should be done with- bellows designed for the purpose ; and if the plants be first sprinkled with water, the smoke will adhere more readily.

Grubs of different kinds, the larva of moths and beetles, are sometimes found to prey on bulbs J but there is no remedy or defence better

than frequently turning and exposing the com- post before it is used, and now and then adding a sprinkling of hot lime, which will prevent its being chosen either as a retreat or nestling-place by the insects.

There is no disease peculiar to bed-flowers which is not common to almost all other vege- tables. Bulbs, particularly of tulips, are subject to a kind of canker, which is not easily accounted for. It appears in putrefying specks on the out- sides of the bulbs and leaves, and is soon covered with a blue mucor, and probably is the seizure of a fungus. It is soon fatal if it extend to the radical plate after the bulb is in the ground ; dy- ing off as onions are often seen to do. When ob- served on the bulb, the speck should be cut out, and the wound exposed to the sun to heal it. It should also be cut from the leaves to prevent its

Class, HEXANDRIA. Order, MONOGYNIA.

The tulip has long been a cultivated favourite. The simple elegance of its form, and the splen- dour and variety of its colours, have deservedly ranked it as " the queen of the flower-garden." Being one of the harbingers of summer, there are many pleasing ideas associated with its ap- pearance. As a child of returning spring, and v;hen all Nature revives, it is connected with the hopes of man. Hence the tulip has always had a distinguished place as a domestic ornament;

and no vegetable ornament repays the care of its protector with more various beauty than this.

To increase the magnitude and improve the form, to add to the number and brilHancy of the tints, the florist has recourse to various expedients to produce the desired results. He propagates by seeds and offsets ; and, when these have ar- rived at a proper age or size, treats them in the way now to be briefly detailed.

In propagating by seed, the rule is to procure the best-ripened seed from what are called, amongst florists, " breeders ;'' that is, strong- growing, robust plants, with well-formed cups, having clear bottoms, either white or yellow. The sorts from which valuable seedlings have been obtained are, according to the ingenious Mr. Hogg, Louis, Charbonniere, Davey's Tra- falgar, and some others in high repute in the

The seed should be sowed in the latter end of January, or the beginning of February, in twenty- four-sized pots. The pots should be well drained by lime-core or rubbish, to keep away earth-

worms, which are hurtful to the plants. The soil should be good, and carefully freed from wire-worms, grubs, or other insects that may ac- cidentally harbour in it. Cover the seeds about half an inch with sifted mould, and keep the whole body of earth in the pot rather moist than otherwise. The seed-pots must have the protec- tion of a frame and glazed sash, and be defended from severe frost. When the seedlings are up, they should be gradually inured to the open air and mild sunshine mornings and evenings. Watering must be moderately continued while the leaves continue to grow, or remain green; and, when dead and withered, the pots must be kept dry for a short time before the little bulbs are taken up, to be dried and stored in the usual

This is the common practice. But Mr. Sweet advises another plan, which will very much expedite the period of their flowering. He sows immediately as the seeds are ripe : and giving the seed-pots or pans a winter protection in a frame, the seedlings come up in the spring.

As soon as they are fit to handle, they are pricked out on abed of sandy soil. When the leaves die, the bulbs are taken up, and immediately planted in a fresh bed (no time bein^ lost by storing) ; and thus, by keeping them constantly in motion, Mr. Sweet has no doubt but that they may be brought to shew flower the third year.

A bed of suitable soil should be prepared for the seedling bulbs, in the open ground, before the middle of October, the usual time for re- planting. Tn this they should be neatly drilled, ordibbed in, about two inches deep ; and, during their progress in the following spring and sum- mer, be carefully guarded from insects, slugs, &c., and receive every encouragement from cleanli- ness, occasional watering, and the like.

Such attention and treatment are necessary every following year, in order to accelerate the period of their flowering. The florist must re- member, that the first flower is actually formed in the seed, enveloped in a certain number of leaves; which leaves must be all developed before the flower can possibly come forth ; so

that the stronger the seedling grows, or rather, the more leaves it has power to put forth in any one year or years, the sooner will it present its flower. All this time the anxious florist must wait, and remain in ignorance whether, as Mr. Hogg observes, he has got a prize, or only a progeny of blanks !

It may be just remarked here, in respect of seeds, that the choicest coloured flowers are bad breeders, and that when they do yield seeds, give offspring of less value in every respect than such as are nearer to their natural state. This circumstance seems to indicate, that the further they are from their natural character, the less powerful are they to perpetuate their respective semblances. This, however, is not a singular characterestic of the tulip; but is observable in mLiny other instances amongst cultivated

The propagation of tulips from seed is an attempt that nothing but the ardent enthusiasm of a thorough-bred florist could undertake. The suspense of four or tive years would be intolera-

ble to an ordinary mind, where there are so few chances of success. But the thing is done, and constantly, by commercial florists, to whom a new beauty is of considerable importance.

Propagating by offsets is the usual and most certain method of increasing the stock, and per- petuating the favourite varieties of the tulip. As has already been noticed in the introduction, they, when in vigorous, or even ordinary, health, produce, besides the principal successor-bulb, one, two, or more junior bulbs, which, .in the manage- ment of the principal, it is necessary to displace. Such viviparous progeny are planted in nursery- beds by themselves, and are reared and forwarded to a flowering state in the same way as directed for seedlings. They come into flower, sooner or later, according to their size or age ; they then become principals, and are ranked and cultivated therewith. It has also been before noticed, that if the principal be deprived of its flower-stem early in the season, the offset progeny will be increased; and this kind of mutilation is carried so far by the Dutch florists, as before observed,

that, when they wish a new variety to be ex- traordinarily prolific in offsets, they cut off the upper half or apex of the bulb, to produce this

But the management of perfect bulbs is the principal business in floriculture, and now falls to be noticed : - and, first, of the compost. This should consist of, -

Three barrowfuls of rich mellow loam ;

One barrowfnl of fine leaf-mould ;

One barrowful of old and perfectly rotten dung; and

Half a barrowful of sea, river, or white pit sand.

This compost should be collected and tho- roughly incorporated several months before it is wanted; turned from time to time, kept in a shady place, and from too much rain. It con- tains the most suitable substances for the incite- ment and support of the plant : the loam and dung yield the nutriment ; the leaf-mould and sand give that porosity and openness which all bulbs more or less require.

Some florists imagine that the soil, which, in

its constitutional temperament, is suitable for the bulb, may not be rich enough for the radicles which supply the flower and leaves ; and there- fore advise one kind of compost for the surface, and another and richer for the bottom. Mad- dock, for instance, directs that the natural soil of the bed be taken out to the depth of twenty inches, and filled with sound fresh loam to the heig-ht of ten inches ; upon this is laid a stratum of two years' old rotten cow-dung and loam mixed together, twelve inches thick ; and above all another layer of loam, three inches thick, to form the surface. There is reason in thus com- posing the bed ; because, as any kind of animal manure is foreign to the plant, it should only be offered to them ; that is, put within their reach, and if suitable, they will find and partake of it ; and if not, there w^ill be no risk of injury from it being forced upon, or placed in contact with, the bulbs, which, from its property of retaining wa- ter, and inviting insects, might be, perhaps, detrimental to them. And even if placed at a greater depth than their roots can ever be ex-

pected to reach, yet the gaseous qualities of the dung, ranging far round its actual place, may reach and assist the plants.

The Lord Mayor's day, 9th November, has been long on fixed by London florists as the proper time for planting the tulip. In doing this no other attention is required than placing the bulbs regularly about six or seven inches apart, and about three and a half inches deep. Placing each bulb in a cone of sand is a usual practice ; it may do good by keeping otF damp and insects from the bulb while it is inert; and it can do no harm by impoverishing the soil of the bed. In order that the business of regulating and plant- ing the bed may be done with accuracy and de- spatch, I shall endeavour to describe Mr. Groom's, of Walworth, (one of our most eminent florists) excellent method of doing it ; and though it be not necessary every where, it deserves imitation wherever it may be applied.

Mr. Groom's principal tulip-bed is four feet wide within, and one hundred and twenty or more feet in lens-th. It is raised fifteen inches above

the surface of the surrounding- walks, by neat boarding. For the purpose of levelHng the surface for planting-, marking the places of the bulbs, and regulating the surface afterwards, he has invented a gauge called a strike. This strike is made of a thin light board, one foot longer than the width of the bed, and about seven inches broad. Its under edge, which is used for levelling the bed to receive the roots, and marking their places, has notches, three and a half inches deep, near each end, which fit on the upper edge of the side boards ; and, on being moved backwards or forwards by a man at each end, lays the surface in the desired form ; the lower edge being curved for the purpose, so as to leave the surface of the mould about two inches higher in the middle than at the sides. Thus levelled, the bed is ready to receive the bulbs ; their places are marked by means of the strike. Seven rows are planted lengthways of the bed, at the dis- tance of seven inches between ; leaving three inches at each side betwixt the outside rows and the boards. The places of the rows are marked

on the strike, and at these points small staples, one above the other, are fixed on the face of the strike ; these receive seven small pegs, or dib- bers, which, when the strike is put dovvn at each mark regulating the distances between the cross rows (the same as that between the long rows), marks the exact places of the bulbs.

The roots, being placed, are now covered up with the proper compost, which is usually of a lighter description than that in the bottom, and the surface is smoothed off by the strike reversed; the upper edge of which, for this operation, is also cut with a curve, having shoulders at each end taking in the whole width of the bed and side- boards ; upon and against which the shoulders slide, while the strike is moved onward to take otf the redundant covering, leaving the surface about three inches higher along the middle than at the sides.

From this description, an idea may be had of how easily and expeditiously the planting is done.

Such a mechanical method of planting and arranging a flower-bed is certainly preferable to

mere random proceeding ; it should certainly be adopted where there is much to do ; though any thing on a small scale may be done accurately enough without either boarding or strike.

In preparing the bulbs for planting, it is re- commended by some writers to divest them not only of their offsets, but also of the brown in- tegument with which they are covered. I never heard, nor am I aware of any good reason for this ; and therefore think it a refinement amongst florists which may just as well be omitted. If the bulbs be sound, and free from any loose re- mains of the last year's bulb, it is enough *.

In general, it is the practice to have either seven, five, or only three rows on a tulip-bed. The largest bulbs, or rather the tallest growers, are placed in the middle row ; the intermediate next ; and the dwarf, or lowest growers, at the sides of the bed.

* There is one reason given for divesting the bulb of the brown covering, viz. that it sometimes prevents the protru- sion of the side roots.

The bed should be placed in an open part of the garden, usually in front of the conservatory or greenhouse, which is its proper place. There it will have full air, and all the natural shelter it

As soon as the planting is finished, or soon as the points of the leaves appear above ground, the hoops should be fixed and the covering ready to be used against hail-storms, snow, or long-con- tinued rain. This care and attention must be continued till all danger from wintry weather is

The bed should be allowed to have a thorough soaking in the spring. Tulips are never sup- posed to stand in need of hand-watering ; and, therefore, a provision should be made, in forming the bed, to meet any lack of moisture caused by a dry spring, or first months of summer. Deep trenching the bottom of the bed, and putting in a good layer of rotten dung at a proper deptli, are both judicious practices for retaining mois- ture in the bed ; because a body of dung holds moisture much longer than any of the other in-

gredients of a flower-compost. It becomes a reservoir of humidity, from which exhalation is ever rising, most refreshing to fibrils that des- cend in quest of it.

Having defended the plants from the rigours of the winter and early spring months, the next thing is preparing to give them the necessary protection while they are advancing to, and con- tinue in, bloom. The expedients for doing this have already been adverted to : and, now the collection being in full perfection, the different distinctions of the varieties composing it are to be noticed.

Tulips are regarded in two grand divisions, viz. early and late blowers. The former, though they are the first to regale the eye, are the least esteemed by the florist ; because they are more diminutive, more fugitive, and less richly varied in colour. It is the latter description on which so much care and admiration are bestowed, and to which our observations specially refer. It is divided into grades by the florist, and dis- tinguished by the names following, viz. - 1. Byb-

4. Incomfcirable verports. These have white bottoms or grounds. 5. Roses. And 6. Bizards. Which last variety have yellow bottoms, or grounds ; i. e. the general colour of the petals is yellow, with markings or streaks of other tints. The roses have white grounds, with rose-coloured

There are, besides, in the extensive family of the tulip, peculiar varieties of all the above ; which are valued for singularity of form or colour. Such are those called parrots, from the odd mixture of tints and irregular form and po- sition of their petals. Double-flowered, sweet- scented, &c., all which varieties, though not ad- mitted to the distinguished honour of a place in the principal tulip-bed, are, notwithstanding, highly ornamental gems of the border.

To preserve neatness and order among the flowers, it is necessary they be tied up, to pre- vent them falling from their place. Small green lines are extended from end to end of the bed, ranging with the rows ; these stretched tightly

and supported by intermediate slender props, if necessary, serve to tie the stems to, with green- coloured- worsted .

When the beauty of the flowers is over, and the greater number have lost their petals, the awning and frame, if it be a moveable one, should be taken away, the stoppers put on the trunks, and the hoops again fixed in their places to allow of occasional covering against excessive rain. All the seed-vessels should be cut off as soon as the petals drop ; because, as seeds are not wanted from the fine flowers, and as this part of the plant exacts a considerable portion of the vigour of the system, it is only a waste of it, if expended on an unnecesary production. It is perfectly consistent with physiological facts, that this dismemberment should have the effect al- leged. It has been already shewn, that there is an intimate connection between the oviparous and viviparous organization of bulbous-rooted plants - a reciprocity of action, balancing the crescive powers of either. From the moment the seed-vessel is broken off, the viviparous prin-

ciple receives a new impulse ; and that impulse is to enlarge the next bulb in succession, as well as the other ofFset-bulbs that may have been pre- viously formed. The peduncle or stalk, now no longer useful, begins, like the leaves, to lose its vitality ; and, shrinking, changes colour, and gradually withers away.

There is a critical point, during this decay of the leaves and stem, which experience has proved should be particularly observed by the tulip grower ; viz. - when the stem in withering be- comes of a purple colour, it is a sign that its connection with the radical plate and fibres (for with the new bulb it has none v/hatever) is cut off, and that the new bulb is an independent being, having " thrown off its mortal coil," and therefore may be taken out of the ground with safety. If taken up before this connection is dissevered by Nature, the new bulb " will be weak and spongy ;'' and if taken up later it, by being kept in the ground, continues in a state of excitement and premature growth, which is

injurious to the purity and distinctness of its colours in the succeeding year.

This sign on the stalk and leaves usually ap- pears in about three or four weeks after the time of full bloom ; during which time the bed only requires to be kept rather dry than otherwise.

When a tulip-bed is regarded as one of the principal ornaments of a garden, it is an exhibi- tion of which every friend or stranger has a view ; and, on the premises of a professional florist, his tulip-bed is a show to which every customer is invited. In such cases, next to the excellence and condition of the flowers is the precise order of their arrangement. Every individual having its right place, according to its height, colour, &c., and, above all, that there be no unsightly blanks. But with the utmost care a bulb now and then will die, or send up an imperfect flower. To remedy such defects, sub- stitutes from the open ground are brought to fill up the vacancies. For this purpose an instru- ment is used, called a transplanter. Two of them

are necessary in the operation. They are made of a piece of best tin plate, eighteen inches by twelve, bent into the form of a cylinder, or tube, twelve inches long-. The two edges that meet are not soldered together, but mounted with counter, or rather alternate placed, loops, which range with each other when the tube is closed to admit a wire to pass through them, thereby connecting the whole securely together. On the sides, at the upper end, two substantial wrought-iron handles are riveted, and which serve to press the tube into the soil containing the plant to be moved. It is then drawn up, plant and earth attached, without disturbing the roots. When this is discharged in its new place (and which is ready opened by the other instru- ment), the connecting wire is drawn out of the loops, which allows the tube to spring open a little, and easily to quit its charge.

There is another and easier plan, practised by florists, for filling up gaps in their show-bed. Phials of water are sunk below the surface in the vacant spaces, and flowers only Ironi the borders

are stuck in from time to time, to make up the

When the bulbs are taken up, " they should be gradually dried, and placed in a situation where they remain so." About the end of August they may be looked over, and divested of their loose skins, dead fibres, and the offsets, which come off easily. The last should not be torn off rashly froi^i the radical plate, as this would make large wounds, hurtful to the organi- zation, or allow its juice to escape.

As the best bulbs are all named, it is neces- saiy they should be kept unmixed. For this purpose, the plan of Van Osten is as convenient as any other. It is a press, or box of shallow drawers, having folding doors; the bottom of the drawers is divided into square compartments, each only large enough to hold a single root. Corresponding numbers on the compartments and in a book ruled in squares, and both similar to the arrangement and stations of the bulbs in the bed, and a numerical list, are sufficient for identifying the kinds at all times.

The usual way of placing the bulbs in the bed is by a regular mixture of the kinds, so that two of a kind or colour shall not stand together, and this for the purpose of giving variety. But regular mixture is not variety. Instead of a bybloemen, bizard, rose, &c. con- stantly repeated in the same row, and then crossly placed in the next, and again in the third, it would be better, perhaps, that the different kinds were grouped together ; not so much from such disposition being agreeable to Nature, because a flower-bed is too artificial an object to receive any such character, but because it would be more convenient for the purpose of comparison. In looking at tulips, we compare those of the same kind with each other - bybloemens with therefore, to see their identical or comparative excellencies, they should be placed in juxta- position. But as this is merely a matter of per- sonal taste, it may be done properly either way.

Description of a Jine Tulip. The florist's taste differs from that of the common observer:

it is an acquired portion of knowledge ; and founded on a standard fixed by a general con- currence amongst cultivators. A flower may be ample, splendid in colours and appearance, and yet have no merit in the estimation of a florist. He can only admire what approaches his stand- ard ; he must have a certain form, colour, and disposition oi colour. Whether the forms and tints so admired be also the most perfect com- binations of form and colour is, perhaps, ques- tionable ; but, as such objects have an extra value, the attainment of them is a pleasing pursuit to the amateur, and the possession a profitable one to the professional florist.

The properties of a first-rate tulip are thus described by Maddock ; viz. - " The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, and about thirty inches above the surface of the bed.

" The flower should be large, and composed of six petals : these should proceed a little horizontally at first, and then turn upwards, forming almost a perfect cup, with a round bot- tom, rather widest at the top.

" The three exterior petals should be rather larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their base ; all the petals should have per- fectly entire edges, free from notch or serra- ture ; the top of each should be broad and well rounded : the ground colour of the flower at the bottom of the cup should be clear white or yellow ; and the various rich coloured stripes, which are the principal ornament of a fine tulip, should be regular, bold, and distinct on the margin, and terminate in fine broken points, elegantly feathered or pencilled.

" The centre of each petal should contain one or more bold blotches or stripes, intermixed with small portions of the original or breeder colour, abruptly broken into many irregular obtuse points. Some florists are of the opinion, that the central stripes or blotches do not contribute to the beauty and elegance of the tulip, unless confined to a narrow stripe, exactly down the centre, and that they should be perfectly free from any remains of the original or breeder colour : it is certain that such appear very beau-

tiful and delicate, especially when they have a reg-ular narrow feathering- at the edge ; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower unanimously agree that it denotes superior merit when the tulip abounds with rich colouring, distributed in a distinct and regular manner throughout the flower, except in the bottom of the cup, which, it cannot be disputed, should be a clear bright white or yellow, free from stain or tinge, in order to constitute a perfect flower."

Class, HEXANDRIA. Ouder, MONOGYNIA, Natur.u. OiiDTAi, ASPHODKLE/E.

The eastern or garden hyacinth is one of our principal bed-flowers. So much and so long has its cultivation been prosecuted, that it forms a staple commodity of commerce from certain parts of Holland to all the other states of Ei^rope. The Dutch florists excel in the business of raising hyacinths and other bulbs, and on a scale more hke agriculture than horticulture. They have, in fact, engrossed almost the whole trade in bulbs. In this they have been no less fortunate in possessing a peculiarly suitable soil than they have been

from a very general belief, in surrounding; coun- tries, that bulbs can be no where else cultivated with success. This idea, so favourable to the Dutch trade, has, however, been doubted, and now is proved to be fallacious. For, though there is no where else in Europe such exten- sive tracts of comparatively rich sand as they have in Holland, which could be appropriated to the cultivation of flower-roots, yet, for all the purposes of the British florist, the soil can be imitated with but little expense or trouble. It is not the natural soil that the Haarlem florists trust to ; they form their compost for the propa- gation of, as we do for flowering, them ; and there is no question, but that hyacinths, as well as other bulbs, may be as well cultivated in England, especially near the coast, as they are in Holland.

One circumstance, however, must not be for- gotten : full-sized bulbs imported from Hol- land, or from any other country, will thrive bet- ter, only from change of air and other circum- stances, than home-bred bulbs, roots, or seeds of

any Idnd ; exactly as English bulbs, &c. would do if exported to Holland. But, independent of change of place, hyacinths may be cultivated any where in the same latitudes, provided they are properly treated. This has been confirmed by many men of the first ability and veracity.

The most suitable soil for this plant is a free rich sand, or sandy loam. This is evident from the character of that preferred for it in Holland, and the experience of those in this country who have made the cultivation of the hyacinth their study. Saline qualities, which impregn the air in Holland, and also the soil, which has been chiefly reclaimed from the ocean, are supposed to be peculiarly necessary and favourable to the growth; and, from a recent trial by the ingenious Mr. Hogg, as published in the Gardener's Maga- zine, No. X, it seems to be clear, that a mode- rate quantity of salt employed in the compost is a suitable ingredient.

That water contains much of the elemental food of the plant is evident from the perfection in which they are flowered in it. The practice is

therefore perfectly right, in storing- the compost with matters retentive or attractive of that ele- ment, which both rotten cow-dmig and salt de- cidedly are ; and placing a stratum of the former at ten inches below the bulbs is also most rational.

The soil prepared for the hyacinth in this country is an imitation of that used by the Dutch florists; it is comyjosed of four barrowfuls of fresh maiden sandy loam ; one ditto well rotten cow- dung ; two ditto leaf-mould, well reduced ; two ditto sea or river sand ; and to this is added one barrowful of old night-soil, all well incorporated together. This is said to retain its virtues for three years ; but an annual addition of the in- gredients near the surface will always be accept- able to the bulbs, more especially to those reared on the same spot.

Haddock's compost is made of one barrow- ful of coarse sea or river sand ; one ditto sandy loam ; half ditto rotten cow-dung two years old ; and a quarter ditto of leaf-mould.

Mr. Campbell, in Gardener's Mag., No. VIII., asserts, as a general axiom, that wherever the

onion will thrive, the hyacinth will succeed. A well-trenched free soil, with a liberal allowance of rotten dung turned in, as well as laid three inches thick over the surface, are the only means employed by this successful florist to insure fine bloom, unfailing' bulbs, and luxuriant true pro-

Hyacinths may be raised from seed ; but it is a tedious process, and the chance of obtaining superior sorts very precarious. Seeds are chosen from the handsomest single, or rather semi- double, flowering plants, when the capsule be- comes yellow and the seeds black. The stem with the seeds should be kept in a dry and airy place till the time of sowing-, which may be done either in the end of October or begining of March. A deep box, filled with the common compost, serves as a seed-bed ; the seeds, when sown, are covered about half an inch. The box must be kept in a warm place during winter, and defended from frost. After two years, and on the approach of winter, the little bulbs should have an additional covering of compost, and in

the third year may be taken up, and afterwards

Offsets are managed by being kept in nursery- beds till they become of full size, which they usually do in the third or fourth year.

Hyacinths, whether raised from seeds or off- sets, have an infancy, youth, and mature age. The first is that from the time they are inde- pendent beings till they flower ; the next stage is from their first flowering till they arrive at their utmost vigour and volume; and the last is that natural size which they continue to assume so long as they continue in health and free from accident, and which (barring accidents) may be, by the assistance of art, prolonged for ever. It is true, that a full-grown bulb shews at last a kind of decrepitude ; but this appears to be caused by mismanagement, or want of change of soil or situation, rather than to any natural exhaustion of the vital principle.

It is quite rational to conclude, however, that the hyacinth, like all other vegetables, may fall into a kind of old age, and at last become extinct.

Even the sturdy oak, the towering; produce of five hundred years, though its progeny may shade a thousand acres round, at hist crumbles into dust !

In Holland, a full-grown bulb is said to con- tinue in perfection for a dozen years : in this country it has been long erroneously believed that, they do not continue more than two or three. This mistake is much in favour of the Dutch commercial florists ; and it is a pity that British florists should be swayed by it. Surely a full- sized bulb will continue its vigour till its own ofl'sets can take its place ; unless, indeed, their culture costs more than new-imported ones.

This error, about the deterioration of bulbs, has chiefly arisen fron the belief that bulbs are permanent ; that the bulb of last year wall be planted in this, and again in the following. But the identity is only apparent, not real ; that part of the bulb which flowered last year is perished and gone, except a small portion of the bases of its leaves, which now form the outer coat of this year's bulb ; and this, which now looks so plump

and perfect, will be almost invisible when taken up in the next. The outer coats of the hyacinth are discharged gradually and imperceptibly, the increments of the bulbs are added from within, and, consequently, the transmutation is invisible. The suitableness of the soil and situation in which a hyacinth is placed not only assists the bulb of the present year to expand itself with the greatest vigour, but also indirectly invigorates and stimulates the incipient successor into greater volume and power to expand itself in its turn. The soil is therefore the principal auxiliary of the florist. By the constitution and components of this, all the changes produced in the amplitude and colours of the flowers, compared with their natural simplicity, is to be attributed. The dou- ble hyacinth is a child of art ; and when we con- sider the vast difference that exists between this and its diminutive original in the wilds of Per- sia or Greece, we cannot but admire the florist's skill or labour in accomplishing such results ; especially as the art is progressing, and probably still far from perfection.

The bed for hyacinths should be prepared for their reception during the month of September. The natural soil, whether suitable or not, should be trenched three feet deep, for reasons before given. Of whatever description it may be, eighteen inches of the surface should be removed to make way for a previously prepared compost. If the bed be raised by boarding, the natural bottom on which it stands should be suffi- ciently loosened, in order that the whole mass of compost and earth under the bulbs be of the same texture or consistence. The bed, whether boarded or not, should be made up to within three inches of the desired height, and smoothed into form to receive the roots.

St. Crispin's day (25th October) is a good time for planting. If the bulbs are put in much earlier, except in countries farther north than London, they may be hurt by being too much advanced in mid-winter; and if kept out of ground after this time, they begin to vegetate in the drawers, or on the shelves ; which, if they do, it has a tendency to weaken them.

Single-flowered hyacinths may be planted earlier, and will blow earlier than the double ones ; on which account they are usually planted by themselves.

The beds are commonly made four feet wide, which allows six rows to be planted lengthways, at the distance of eight inches asunder, leaving four inches between the outside rows and the sides of the bed : the distance between bulb and bulb in the rows is also eight inches.

The bulbs should be placed on and covered with white sand, as directed for tulips ; this being considered as a preservation from damp and insects. They are then covered with com- post three inches thick, if the surface is to re- ceive no other covering ; but if intended to be covered with two or three inches of well-rotten dung about the beginning of December, a covering of one inch thick of compost will be sufficient. Another mode of covering I have practised, which is to cover the bulbs, in the first place, with about two inches of compost; and, before the frost sets in, adding a top cover-

ino; of line sifted and perfectly decayed bark, about one inch thick. This assists to keep off the frost in winter and the bed cool during the flowering season. It also allows of a harm- less practice of showing the flowers to tlie greatest advantage ; viz. giving the surface a slight watering about an hour before the flowers are to be shown to company. A dark-coloured back-ground is thus given to the flowers, and a freshness to their colours which is truly pleasing and well worth the labour.

It is not the practice to water bulbs at any period of their growth ; and certainly, if the compost contains substances which are retentive of humidity, or if there be a layer of moist dung at the proper distance below, it is perhaps unne- cessary during the short period of their spring growth. Otherwise, I see no reason why the hyacinth should be denied the " vernal showers,"

Soon as the points of the leaves appear above ground, hoops should be fixed, and mats or can- vass coverings laid ready to be used against the

occurrence of very severe frost, heavy snow, or violent rain. Slight frost or rain does no injury; indeed there is more fear of over-covering and preventing a full share of air and light than of over-exposing the bed to the weather.

If a bulb be frozen through, it and the flovver will be killed, though the offsets may escape ; and, if the exterior coats only be frozen, a diminished stem and flower will afterwards be produced ; but few or no leaves. This, it may be observed, is a circumstance frequently witnessed in vegetation, and particularly bulbs. If the exterior of a bulb be chilled by cold, or over-dried by warm air, its central and more vital part, being free from in- jury, pushes forth before the leaves, and seems to engross the whole vigour of the system. So, we sometimes see, under the influence of the mid- day sun, the flowers of a plant remain erect and rigid, while its leaves are flaccid and drooping ; because the flowers depend on the central vessels, which are less exposed to desiccation than the ex- terior. Branches of evergreen trees, as the holly for instance, when denuded of every leaf, and

fast verging to decay, will put forth their flowers as the last effort of life : even the pine-apple plant shows the same phenomenon.

It is well, therefore, to defend from severe frost; though, during the months of January, February, and March, as much free air must be admitted as the state of the weather will permit.

In ordinary seasons, it will be towards the 1st of April that the flowers will begin to shew colour. The awning should now be erected, to guard against the effects of too much sun. It is needless to reiterate how much shading enhances the pleasure and continues the beauty of a hya- cinth-bed. It gives time to examine and admire their distinguishing characters, and inspect their respective excellencies. It is desirable the col- lection should come into flower together; and, to accomplish this, the accurate florist takes care to plant the early blowers a little deeper than the late ones.

The next attention which the flowers require is to be prepared with propping-sticks and ties. The former should be made of oak or deal, three-

eighths of an inch diameter, and pointed at bot- tom, tapering off towards the top, painted green, and sixteen or eighteen inches in length. These, stuck in with care behind thebulb, are necessary for the support of the flowers when their weight bends the stem. Green worsted ties are the least conspicuous : encompassing both prop and stem in loose collars, they rise with the growth of the latter without confining it in any part.

Thus prevented from falling by the props, and defended from sun and wind by the awning, the flowers will continue for nearly three weeks a pleasing and interesting spectacle. The healthy freshness of their forms, the splendour of their colours, and their grateful sweetness of scent, are a fascinating treat even to those the most dead to the charms of Nature : but to the lover of flowers, or genuine florist, it is a gratification of the highest order, enhancing all the other enjoyments of life.

Soon as the general beauty of the bloom is over the awning should be immediately removed, in order that the plants may enjoy the full air and

light ; for, if the weather has been such during the bloom that it has been much used, the health of the plants will be somewhat impaired. They will not have that constitutional vigour which a full share of air and light would have imparted ; and therefore should be exposed as soon as possible. The hoops may however he replaced, io allow of covering with mats, &c. in case of excessive rain.

When the stems and leaves become yellow and withered, which usually happens in about a month after the bloom, the bulbs should be taken up and laid on the surface of the bed, and lightly covered with sand or with part of the compost. If it be a named collection, each bulb is taken up and laid on the same spot sideways, and there covered over for the space of three weeks, to ripen, as it is called ; that is, lulled into perfect repose before they are consigned to their places in the store-boxes. When the time arrives to do this the bulbs are taken up one by one, the dead remains of the stem and leaves are cut off close, the loose skins and fibres cleaned away, and the

largest offsets separated, which, with the bulb and tally, are placed in their respective cells in the drawer. In the drawers they are exposed to the dry air of a room till all perceptible moisture is dried up, when they are again placed in the cabinet, to remain till planting- time. This or- derly way of disposing the bulbs prevents all confusion or chance of mixture, and saves much trouble in papering and numbering in the com- mon way. But, where the collection is not named, the bulbs, when first taken up, may be laid out of the way in any bye corner to ripen, leaving the bed clear for any other purpose of the flower-gardener.

Where no bulb-case or cabinet is used, they may be kept on dry shelves in moderate temper- ature, either in paper or without.

Collections of hyacinths are kept up by sup- plies of offsets from the nursery-beds, or by pur- chases from the seed-shops. Florists reckon that one in twelve is lost every year by accidents, in- sects, or disease.

The properties of a fine double hyacinth. - ^The

stem should be strong-, tall, erect, supporting nu- merous large bells, each supported by a short strong peduncle or foot-stalk in an horizontal position, so that the whole may have a compact pyramidal form, with the crown or uppermost bell perfectly erect.

The bells should be large and perfectly dou- ble ; i. e. well filled with broad, bold petals, ap- pearing to the eye rather convex than flat or con- cave : they should occupy about one half the length of the stem.

The colours should be bright, whether plain red, white, blue, or yellow, or variously diversi- fied in the eye : the latter give additional lustre and elegance to the flower.

Strong bright colours are in general preferred to such as are pale : there are, however, many rose-coloured, pure white, and light blue hya- cinths in high estimation.

Some sorts consist of petals of different co- lours; such as light reds, with deep or red eyes ; whites, with rosy, blue, purple, or yellow eyes ;

and yellow, with purple in the eye, &c. : others again have their petals stri])ed, or marked down the centre with a paler or deeper colour, which has a pleasing effect.

It sometimes happens, and with some sorts more than others, that two stems are produced from the same root : one is generally consider- ably taller and stronger than the other. " When this is the case, the weaker may be cut off near the ground, soon after it makes its appearance, or suifered to bloom, and its bells be intermixed with the lower ones of the taller stem, so dex- terously as to appear like one regular pyramid of bells."

This last-mentioned circumstance is a sign of the superior vigour of the plant : in fact, it is nothing less than the flower of the next as well as that of this year coming together; so that the third of the series will succeed to the place of the second. This exuberance of growth is very frequently seen in cottage-gardens, where the bulbs have been but recently introduced, in the

absence of all floricultural art ; showing most decidedly how much the hyacinth, like almost all other plants, delights in a change of situation and of soil.

Class, HEXANDRIA. Order, MONOGYNIA.

Natural Order, AMARYLLIDE^E.

The next bulbous-rooted flowering- plant in order and estimation is the polyanthus-narcissus. It is a more robust plant than either the tulip or hyacinth ; consequently requires less care in ma- nagement and preservation. In the structure, mode of growth, and manner of reproduction, it resembles the hyacinth in every respect ; and the directions for the cultivation of the one are equally applicable to the other. Hyacinth com- post suits them well : the richest portion below, and the bulbs themselves placed in a lighter- surface stratum.

There is a considerable importation of these bulbs, from both Holland and Italy, every year ;

chiefly for the purpose of being- flowered in pots and glasses for the decoration of drawing- rooms and conservatories. This trade affluence encourages, because it is convenient. The British ctdtivator, however, whether private or commercial, is not compelled to have recourse to an imported supply, so long as he can obtain from his own management as perfect bulbs as can be had from abroad; always excepting the effect of change of place, which has a very powerful influence on the energies of plants.

When polyanthus-narcissus are planted in beds or borders it is customary to let them re- main for two or three years without removal. But this is not the best management ; because the offsets become numerous, and, remaining attached to the system, withdraw a part of the vigour which it is desirable should be expended only in the production of the flower of the present year, or in increasing the size of the successor- bulb of the next. The Dutch florists take them up every year, as they do their other bulbs ; by

which means they concentrate the growth, and so bring* better (i. e. larger) samples to market.

There is a special difference in the management of private and commercial growers, as regards the polyanthus-narcissus. The former cultivates for the sake of the bloom ; the latter chiefly for propagation. To propagate with success, and ensure a return of large bulbs which will flower well, no flowers should be allowed to expand the previous season. Pinching off the flower-stalk stimulates the growth of the other parts, and furnishes, for the next year, bulbs in no degree inferior to newly imported ones. The private grower, in order to have always a respect- able succession, should therefore deny himself the gratification of a full bloom this year, for a partly fine bloom in the next. By dividing his stock into blowers and breeders, alternating in station and treatment with each other, and by carefully nursing the largest offsets, he may al- ways maintain a good collection.

Cutting off the leaves of this plant is particii-

larly interdicted by florists. This rale is more regarded in England than it appears to be on the continent. The Dutchmen are less tender of the foliage than we are ; nor do they seem to attribute to the leaves that peculiar function which is given them by the botanical physiolo- gists of this country. Perhaps certain ideas, like diseases, are endemical. But as to the question whether or not the cutting off the leaves while in vigorous growth be detrimental, there can be no doubt of the affirmative. In this case, Nature shows what is right. Every distinct member of a plant is certainly necessary to each and all the other parts. And although Art may direct or regulate the tendencies of parts of members, no distinct member contri- buting to the growth can be taken away without

The first of October is the proper season for planting the polyanthus-narcissus. The bulbs should be put four or five inches deep in the gTound ; and, during severe frost, should have a covering of old bark, dry fern, or mats ; as the

points of their leaves are liable to be killed if too much exposed.

When in flower, shading is necessary to pro- long their beauty ; and, when the leaves become yellow, the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and

There are several varieties of this narcissus, all of which require the same management, and which, indeed, is suitable for the whole of this extensive family, from the delicate jonquil up to the rustic daffodil.

All the lily and fritillary tribes that are suffi- may be cultivated by means similar to what have been recommended for the preceding. The white and orange are so hardy, that they are met with as old standards in every garden. It is a wonder that seedling varieties have not yet been had, by cross impregnation, from those two spe- cies. The smaller species should be planted in patches or beds by themselves.

There are many bulbs of minor importance and character, which have always a place in the flower-

garden ; but as they are easy of culture, and thrive in almost every situation, they need no particular notice, further than to observe, that, whatever has been advanced relative to the conformation, peculiar properties, or habits of bulbs in general, are applicable, more or less, to all kinds, whether superior or inferior. Of these, the snow-drop, various sorts of hyacinth, squills, bulbocodium, uvularia, crocus, corn-flag, &c. are among the number, and all well known. It is doubtful, however, whether the crocus and corn- flag can be ranked as bulbs, they partaking more of the character of tubers than of bulbs.

The distinction between bulbs and tubers is not very well defined. If only those were called bulbs in the sense in which Evelyn uses the term, i. e. tunicated, or composed of abbreviated leaves, there would be no confusion. The introduction of the term bulbous solidus, by the early botanists, has led to much uncertainty in subsequent descriptions. The first of this character to be noticed is the

Class, POLYANDRIA. Order, POLYGYNIA. Natural Order, RANUNCULACE^.

The brilliance and variety of colours displayed in the flowers of this half-hardy exotic, have long attracted the notice of the florist, and raised it to the rank of a bed-flower. It is one of those whose extreme delicacy of structure shrinks from the full blaze and withering effects of a summer sun, and therefore is destined by Nature to come forth under the mild temperature and light of a vernal sky. The rigour of our winters, which is more extreme than that of their native habitat, imposes on the florist a particular care in the management, to give these strangers all the advantages of our temperate climate, while they are defended from the severity in the early, or occasional dryness during the latter, part of their seasonal life.

The natural history of the anemone is briefly this : - It rests in summer ; and, soon as the au- tumnal rains set in, it comes into action, expands its leaves and flowers (probably during our win- ter), and ripens its seed in the spring: when these decay, the vitality becomes stagnant, and remains secure in the bosom of the tuber.

Thus, while the generality of plants are prompted into action by the return of spring, to be perfected by the increased heat and light of summer, the anemone is one of those that shuns the warm season, remaining dormant till the parching heats are past. Many plants are simi- larly actuated. It has been already observed, that some flowers cannot bear the hght, if combined with a high degree of heat: but no conjecture has been offered why this must needs be so. I shall here, therefore, risk an opinion, and an opinion only, on the subject : -

" Nature does nothing in vain."' Every plant is fitted for the circumstances of the climate of which it is a native. Tropical trees are scarcely affected by a change of seasons, though they are

by changes of weather : the greater number, under their continual summer, are hardly suscep- tible of a change of temperature. But the plants of the temperate and frigid zones feel summer and winter, in which they are alternately in motion and at rest. Each plant presents its flowers in that part of the year for which the consti- tution and texture of their blossoms are best adapted. Many icosandrious and polyandrious plants, from the attenuated structure of their sta- mens and pistils, are unsuited to bear the direct and parching rays of the sun, and, therefore, are expanded early in the spring or summer. This, it appears, is necessary for the safety of the flowers from heat; and such plants from warmer latitudes, having this natural impulse, come forth with us so early, as to jeopardize their existence, and be wholly cut off by frost. To mention a few instances, by way of proof: - botanists have long ago noticed the peculiar precaution, if I may so call it, of the cactus grandiflora blowing only in the night. The fruit-grower laments this tendency or habit in his most delicate wall-fruit

trees ; and the florist must bestow considerable labour and skill to check or defend this forward propensity in his favourite anemones.

The anemone is propagated, and new varie- ties are obtained, by sowing- the seed. This should be chosen from the best old flowers im- pregnated with semi-double flowers, having the desirable properties of rich colour and fine form. The seed, being volatile, should be gathered as it ripens, and preserved in a dry place till the month of January, when it should be sown. It requires to be prepared for sovving by being mixed with and well rubbed in sand, to divest it of its downy covering. The seed-bed should be composed entirely of fresh garden ground or loam, from twelve to eighteen inches deep, which has been well aerated, to free it from earth-worms and insects. And, for the better security against these, a layer of quick-lime, three inches thick, should be laid in the bottom of the bed : and, to prevent the approach of slugs or worms to the surface, the outskirts of the bed should be fre- quently sprinkled with lime or salt water.

A shallow one-light frame is necessary for the defence and nurture of the seedlings. In this, when the soil is settled and levelled, sow the seeds thickly and equally, and press them into the earth with a board, or back of a spade. The bed should be, and kept, rather moist. While the seeds are vegetating-, the glass-light should be kept close; and as they swell and force themselves above ground, a slight covering of loam may be sifted on from time to time, till the seeds are hidden. Air must be given on all occasions, when the weather permits, soon as the plants begin to appear ; and, should the bed become too dry, it must be lightly watered. If the surface appear crusted when the seedlings are rising, it must be cautiously loosened with the point of a stick, to give freedom to the plants. This treatment must be continued till the leaves begin to die off; and when they are quite wi- thered, the tubers may be taken up.

As these small roots are irregular in form, and of a dingy colour, they are not readily found, un- less two or three inches of the surface be passed

through a fine brass wire sieve, to separate them from the mould. A more expeditious way is by washing it away in water. For this purpose a wide tub of water is used ; the sieve containing the mould and roots, partly emerged in this, is trundled ; the earth falls through, leaving the roots to be picked out, dried, and stowed away in a proper place, to be planted in due season.

These seedlings, planted in a nursing-bed, will for the most part flower the second year; all that are worthless may be discarded, and the best only kept to breed from, or take a place among the superiors. The finest double varieties are only procurable by a long course of succes- and which show a tendency to become double.

The anemone may be also propagated by di- viding the tuber. When this becomes old, it rots in the centre ; but as the vital crowns are dis- persed over the surface, any portion thereof, however small, containing a crown, if separated and planted, becomes a new plant.

The sleep of the anemone enables the florist

to commence its season at any period during the autumn or winter months. Were he to imitate Nature closely, he would invariably choose the month of October as the most proper in this country ; because they get into action before the hardest frost sets in, and which is considered as no small security ; and though they must brave all the severity of winter, still, if they receive that protection which it is the business of the florist to afford, they will succeed better than if they had an artificial season forced upon them by deferring the planting for two or three

But it is argued, that the frequent covering- required to repel the frost, is not only highly injurious, but even risks the existence of the plant ; and therefore some persons prefer spring planting, as the safest practice. But it should be remembered that the anemone is a winter, not a spring plant ; requiring, in its own climate, a season of at least five months' continuance ; whereas, with us, if planted in February, it has only a season of three months, which is too short

a period to allow the full development of the flowers, and necessary enlargement of the tuber ; the sudden arrival of our summer checks the growth and hastens on a premature torpidity.

I am, therefore, decidedly of opinion, as well from the nature of the anemone itself as from the concurring testimony of many successful growers, that the middle of October is the proper time for planting. The hazards of the winter must be guarded against with the requisite attention, by defending the bed from severe frost, without depriving it of a full portion of air. How this may be done requires only a few words.

Few persons, acquainted with the effects of frost on vegetation, but are aware that cold air descends perpendicularly, or, as it is explained by some meteorological writers, heat is radiated from the earth vertically. Heat, a positive, and cold, a negative quality, do not, from their effects, appear to be much diffused laterally. A coping on a wall defends the fruit-trees under it: a thin mat will repel frost that, without its

interposition, would have been fatal : a dense cloud, floating high above the earth, shelters the ground and plants below. Coverings for anemones, therefore, should be placed at some distance (say two feet) above the surface of the bed ; the sides being left open for the admission of air, except in frosty winds (called black frosts), a curtain should be added on the wind- ward side. Stakes, driven in the ground, and connected by a surrounding rail, will serve to bear straw mats of sufficient thickness to be rolled on and off as they are needed, which will be protection enough.

The habits of the anemone, as being a pro- duction of the moistest season of the year, seems to point out the soil most congenial to it; viz. a mellow rich loam. The success of many culti- vators who have published their experience yields ample proof, if proofs were wanting, of the suit- ableness of such soil. It is such as absorbs and retains an equable degree of moisture, without repletion or deficiency. And, though surface- water be neither naturally necessary nor suitable,

yet a substratum of rich and permanently humid

soil appears to be indispensable.

In forming the bed, therefore, the florist has only to loosen the bottom sufficiently deep : and, about eight inches from the surface, let strong loam and rotten dung be mixed, to form the sub- stratum, and on this a surface-layer of lighter loam to receive the tubers.

The bed being formed and levelled, drills are drawn across about five inches asunder, in which the roots are placed, crowns upwards, four inches or more apart, according to their size, and cover- ing them as near as possible about two inches deep. Sometimes sand is strewed under and over the tubers ; but this is not absolutely neces-

Having already adverted to the winter ma- nasrement, the next thing in course is what should be attended to before and at the time of flower- ing. If the winter has been mild and without much frost and snow, and all other circumstances favourable, the plants, in the course of the spring, will be looking well. If the month of March,

as sometimes happens, has been dry, the bed should be examined ; and if the surface has be- come loose, it should be stirred; a little fresh loam added, and pressed close to the plants. The subsoil should also be examined ; and if it appears not sufficiently damp, a good soaking- of manured water should be immediately given. It is wrong to wait for indications from the leaves of a want of water, because leaves attached to a bulb or tuber show a vigour which does not entirely arise from the state of the soil ; and therefore the soil should be examined and treated accordingly. If insects of any kind have taken possession, they should be dislodged.

When approaching to flower, unless sufficient rain has fallen, occasional watering may be necessary ; and, as they come forward in bloom, both shading and watering will be required.

If the weather at this time be fine and dry, the tubers, after flowering, will ripen regularly of themselves ; but, if cold and wet, it will be ne- cessary to protect the bed from rain : otherwise, the tubers will be kept in a state of excitement,

and be thereby enfeebled for future exertion. This is a material point in the culture of the anemone, and deserves particular attention. It seems that our summer should resemble their own ; that is, to commence so as to stop their growth instantaneously, and allow the tubers to ripen in perfect drought. Checking all growth by such means, the leaves will soon begin to change colour; and, about a month after the bloom, the roots may be taken up, carefully cleaned, dried, and stored up.

The properties of a fine double anemone. - " The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, not less than nine inches high.

" The blossom, or corolla, should be at least two and a half inches in diameter, consisting of an exterior row of large, substantial, well-rounded petals or guard-leaves, at first horizontally ex- tended, and then turning a little upwards, so as to form a broad, shallow cup, the interior part of which should contain a great number of long, small petals, imbricating with each other, and rather reverting from the centre of the flower :

there are a great number of slender stamens, intermixed with these petals; but they are short, and not easily discernible.

*' The colours should be clear and distinct when diversified in the same flower, or brilliant and striking if it consists only of one colour, as blue, crimson, or scarlet, &c.; in which case, the bottom of the exterior petals is generally white ; but the beauty and contrast are considerably increased when both the exterior and interior are regularly marked with alternate blue and white, pink and white, &c. stripes, which in the broad petals should not extend quite to the margin.'

Class, POLYANDRIA. Order, POLYGYNIA.

Natural Order, RANUNCULACE^..

The natural history of the ranunculus or frogwort is so much like that of the anemone, that what has been said of the one is quite applicable to the other. They are natives of the same latitude ; are perfected in the same season ; thrive in the same soil ; and succeed under the same management.

The ranunculus, however, ranks rather higher than the anemone, because of the very rich and varied colouring of its full turbinated flowers ; and though perhaps not quite so hardy, is flowered with equal facihty, and when in flower, is more permanent.

New varieties are obtained from seed in the

same way, and by similar management, as is advised for the anemone; indeed, no two distinct genera can be more alike in habitude and consti- tution. The whole family of the ranunculi, from the fluviatalis to the arvensis, affect humidity, both of soil and atmosphere.

Different cultivators have different opinions as to the best time for planting the ranunculus. It is, however, very generally admitted, that autumn planting is most seasonable, provided the rigours of winter can be sufficiently guarded against. That the autumn is also the most natural season, has been already shown (and it is trusted proved); and by the mode suggested of shelter- ing with elevated straw mats, all the objections to autumn planting are answered. It is proper to add, however, that spring-planted beds will succeed ; and with judicious management, do constantly succeed, when circumstances of soil, situation, and season, are favourable. If the first four months of the year be temperate and moist, with no bleak easterly winds to dry the earth and

air, the flowers will attain considerable perfection. But the tubers, it is more than probable, will not be so strong to flower the following year. The store of vigour in the tuber is exhausted by the excitement of the spring season in a degree greater than there is time for an equal replenish- ment : and it may be safely repeated, that success from spring-planting is only in a degree, and certainly less than would follow equally fortunate autumn-planting.

There are only a few particulars in which the management of the ranunculus differs from that of the anemone. The first is in preparing the seed for sowing, which instead of being separated by rubbing amongst sand, is scraped from the receptacle with a blunt knife ; dividing it so as not two or more remain together in the husks. The next particular is in the planting ; that care be taken not to bury the tubers deeper than an inch and a half The bed, too, besides the natural tendency of such a compost to settle closely to- gether, should be, in some degree, consolidated by

the action of the spade, to resist the entrance of air, which appears to be less necessary to the roots.

Before and when coming into bloom, the surface of the bed should be kept pretty solid and moist by mulching- and occasional watering- with manured water. Shading- will preserve and prolong the beauty of the flowers ; and all subsequent treatment to be observed as directed for the anemone.

Ranunculus tubers have been already de- scribed. They increase themselves by viviparous progeny ; but the connecting runner between the old and young plants is usually so short, that they appear as one and inseparable. This, how- ever, is not the case : if the runner be cut by the point of a knife, neither the old nor young one will be damaged ; and, by such means, the kind may be multiplied without end.

The properties of a fine double ranunculus. - "The stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to twelve inches high, supporting a large, well-formed blossom, at least two inches in dia-

meter, consisting of numerous petals, the largest at the outside, and gradually diminishing in size as they approach the centre of the flower, which should be well filled up with them.

" The blossom should be hemispherical ; its petals should be imbricated in such manner as neither to be too close and compact, nor too widely separated; but have rather more of a perpendicular than horizontal position, to display their colours with better effect.

*' The petals should be broad, and have per- fectly entire, well-rounded edges: their colours should be dark, richly clear, or brilliant, either consisting of one colour throughout, or be vari- ously diversified, on an ash, white, sulphur, or fire-coloured ground, or regularly striped, spotted, or mottled, in an elegant manner,"

There are more numerous varieties of double ranunculuses than of any other flower; and it is one that may be flowered at almost any time of the year, merely by changing the time of plant- ing. " For a bloom in September or October,

plant about the middle of July. For a bloom all the season, commence in February, and plant every fortnight or three weeks ; in September, plant in a frame, and you will have a bloom about January or February." - H. Groom, in Trans. Hort. Soc.

Class, PENTANDRIA. Order, IMONOGYNIA. Natural Order, PRIMULACE^.

The auricula (or bear's ear) is the beau of the flower-garden ; and, though a native of a poor alpine region, yet, when introduced into the more refined ranks of floral society, no other plant assumes a more gaudy dress, nor more capriciousness of taste and feeling. To gratify this artificial character and appetite, the florist ransacks every description of mineral, vegetable, and animal matter - from the mildest maiden loam to the most filthy and abominable sub- stances - to furnish a repast to satisfy the palate and vitiated taste of this fastidious fop of the flower-bed. Divested of its native hardihood

when brought into the sheltered parterre, it be- comes too dehcate and too much valued to be consigned to the bosom of its mother earth. The breath and beams of heaven must not " visit its face too roughly;" requiring defence as well from the summer heat as from the winter's cold.

It is a vernal flowering plant; but, unlike bulbs and some other tubers, it is not a sleeper. In the whole art of floriculture there is nothing more difficult than to grow the auricula plant to a great and vigorous size, and yet retard its showing flower till the proper season. This is a point requiring particular consideration ; and, luckily, the practical experience of eminent florists is on record, which, with some additional obser- vations, will show the most approved means to gain this desirable result.

The root of the auricula is a long, irregular, branching tuber, furnished by fibrous permanent radicles, very much in the style of the iris family. It is increased by gradual elongation upwards, and as gradually dying off at the bottom. Hence it is the nature of the plant to rise out of the

ground, and consequently to be the better for earthing up. When its " spurious stem,'' as it is called by some writers, rises to a certain height, it, from laxity, reclines on the ground and there takes root, and in this manner naturally propa- gates itself

The apex of the principal and each of the other branchlets bear the leaves and a cluster of flower buds, which are developed therefrom in irregular succession - the most central usually first, and then the next according to its strength or seniority. The base of each bud (and on which the leaves are seated before they decay) is permanent, and becomes a component of the stem, entering intimately into its organization. All the leaf buds are not developed while they are on the summit of the shoot, but remain dor- mant in the stem, from whence they occasionally issue as branchlets. Radicles proceed from all parts of the stem also, showing that any part of the stem may be nursed into a perfect plant.

It sometimes happens that the senior bud, containing the embryo flower, is accidentally

either wholly or partially damaged. In either case it will immediately be succeeded by the next in order. If the flower only of the first has sus- tained injury, it may come forth; but it will be defective in colour, though its successor will be perfect both in form and colour.

That the auricula is partial to dry air and situations, is perfectly obvious from its history - from experience in its cultivation - and particu- larly from that curious peculiarity of constitution by which it covers itself with dust. Whether this be an efflorescence of the exterior cuticle, or a concreted exudation of its juices, is, perhaps, not yet ascertained ; but it is quite rational to suppose, that it serves as a defence against rain. Water " conglobing on the dust," is a circum- stance noticed by every body, and often alluded to by poets; and no doubt this elegant formation is a necessary provision of Nature for the preser- vation of the plant. At any rate, it furnishes an excellent practical lesson to the cultivator ; as it is one of those silent yet significant hints which should always be regarded by the practitioner as

assisting in the right treatment of the plants under his care.

The auricula is propagated by seeds to pro- cure new varieties, and by slips, to multiply and continue the old favourite ones.

In raising them from seed, the most import- ant part of the business is procuring in the first place the offspring of estimable kinds. The usual precautions are removing the breeders away from amongst the common and mixed sorts; placing them in the company of such only as possess valuable properties (a transfer of which would be desirable), and encouraging them by every practicable expedient to perfect their seeds. This is the simplest and easiest plan ; but no doubt new and much improved varieties might be obtained with much more certainty, and very little more trouble, by the ordinary means of cross impregnation. The manner of doing this has already been described ; and nothing more need be added in this place, save the advice to choose varieties of the finest forms and deepest colours for the experiment : divest them of their

own anthers, and impregnate their stigmas with the anthers of the various coloured sorts whose tints, or position of tints, are wished to be con- veyed. Or, if it be, as it often is, desirable that the properties of two good ones should be in- terblended, crossing the anthers of each to the stigmas of the other may effect the object; always taking care that the organs are in the proper state for such manipulation, and that the plants, after impregnation, be safely defended from rain and ardent sunshine.

The breeders are assisted to ripen their seed by being placed in a situation and aspect not liable to the vicissitudes of the weather or of a summer day ; that is, where they may receive only the morning and evening sun, but not the noon-tide heat. Decayed, or supernumerary florets (or pips, as they are technically called) should be cut away, leaving only the most pro- mising to mature their seed. When the capsules become dry and brown, they should be gathered and kept in a cold and moderately damp, rather

than in an over-dry place, till the month of January, when the seeds should be sown.

Boxes, large-sized pots, or seedling pans, are indifferently used for seed-beds ; and various stations are assigned them, as opinion, or rather as convenience allows. Within striking, or hand- glasses - a cucumber- frame - the front of a green or dwelling-house near the glass - or in a shel- tered place in the open air (the pots being covered with plates of window-glass) - are all recom- mended. But, certainly, the most expeditious way is raising the seedlings in a mild hot-bed, especial care being taken to guard against the warm steam. Such a stimulus brings up every perfect seed, and particularly the weakest, which generally turn out the best flowers : and which there is a chance of losing, if no assistance be given by the apphcation of artificial heat.

Too much attention cannot be paid to the effectual drainage of the pots, &c. intended for auriculas. The plant is very soon damaged by water becomins: sta2:nant near its roots. Air

oyster-shell whelmed over the hole in the bottom of the pot, and this covered with a layer of small stones or cinders, will readily allow all excess of water to escape.

When the pots or boxes are thus drained and filled with the proper compost, it should be shaken and pressed smoothly down fiill half an inch below the rim, leaving* the middle rather higher than round the sides. On the surface the seeds are dropped as regularly as possible, and covered with finely sifted compost to the thickness of a crown piece. Water is given immediately, applying it as lightly as possible by a patent syringe or otherwise, so that the surface, or seeds, be not disturbed. The pots are next placed in their stations, and the glasses put on. Here they must be guarded against the approach of earth-worms and insects - ventilated by occasionally taking off or raising the glasses to prevent mouldiness - and gently watered or shaded when either appears to be necessary.

All such attention must be continued up to the time the plants are fit to handle ; they are

then pricked out, two inches apart, in middle sized pots, in which they are nursed till the month of August, when they are again trans- planted singly into the smallest sized pots, viz. sixties, or three together at equal distances, round the outside of forty-eights. Here they remain to flower ; and then comes the most in- teresting period of their culture. The hopes and curiosity of the florist are wound up to the highest pitch. If he happens to have raised a fair portion of third and fourth rates, he regrets neither his toil nor trouble, though he may have many pin-eyed flowers to reject : if a few second rates, he is highly gratified ; but if he has suc- ceeded in raising a prime superior flower, he

Emmerton, who has written with much ability and minuteness on the culture of the auricula, gives his advice as to the best kinds to breed from, viz. " To breed fine light-green, green, or grey-edged seedlings, plant two of Barlow's king-, and four of Grimes's privateer, in a pot. To breed fine green-edged seedlings, take three

of Barlow's kino^, and three of PoUit's Highland boy. To breed choice-tinted violet ground- coloured seedlings, with green edges, plant three of Bunless's superb, and three of Fadin's victory, in a pot. To breed fine white-eyed seedlings, put together three of Schooley's Mrs. Clarke, and three of Taylor's incomparable, in one pot."

Placing such kinds, or any others having like properties together, and further aiding the im- pregnation by manual assistance, would go far to ensure success.

Successful management of the auricula de- pends very much on the suitableness of the com- post prepared for it. It has been found by ex- perience, that the plant submits to a high degree of cultivation ; and, like many others, it becomes in the garden entirely the child of art, and almost a new being. Mr. Hogg has very justly said, however, that though a plant may be greatly changed by cultivation, it still retains some of its aboriginal predilections ; and though the auricula seems voluptuously willing to partake of what- ever store of good things are provided for its

roots, it persists on its natural propensity for pure air and dry situations ; insomuch, that no care or attention, it is said, can make it prosper in contrary circumstances.

The different substances which have been em- ployed in composing a soil for the auricula, are maiden or fresh loam ; the droppings of sheep, horses, or oxen; desiccated or very old night- soil ; dimg of pigeons, poultry, and particularly that of geese ; blood from slaughter-houses ; sugar-baker's scum ; leaf mould ; moor earth ; ashes of burnt vegetables ; and sea or river sand.

Some curious cultivators have used certain portions of all these substances together ; but, as Mr. Hogg observes, not to the advantage of their plants, but the reverse. One famous grower used only one-third loam, two-thirds sheep-dung and well rotted hay litter from sheep-houses, and one- tenth coarse sand. This answered the purpose well. Mr. Hogg's own compost is made of one- third fresh yellow loam, one-third well rotten cow-dung, one-third night-soil two years old, one-third leaf mould, and one-tenth sea or river

sand, all well prepared and incorporated toge- ther. And though he, as opportunity offers, adds indiscriminately the dung of sheep, horses, cows, poultry, pigeons, night-soil, and blood, to his compost heap, he yet seems to approve of the opinion of the Lancashire florists, who maintain that the Londoners are too particular in their choice of substances, and that a much simpler composition would answer the same end. At the same time he approves Emmerson's compost of goose-dung, blood, and night-soil; loam, and sugar-baker's scum, of each one-third, for top- dressing in February ; and recommends some- thing similar for strong blooming plants.

Such are the composts which florists have found most suitable for the auricula. Their basis is fresh maiden loam, made light and porous by vegetable matter, as decayed straw, hay, leaves, or rotten wood, and enriched by animal qualities contained in the ordure, blood, or other parts after decomposition. To prevent composts becoming an abode or nestling place for worms and the larva of insects, they should be sprinkled

moderately with hot lime and salt, and fre- quently turned and exposed to frost. Some im- portance is attached to the time they have been mixed ; some authors advise them not to be used in less than two years. It certainly seems neces- sary that the crudities of the different ingredients should be somewhat neutralized, or at least qua- lified by frequent turning and exposure. Every flower-grower should have at command an abun- dant store of such matters, either separate or mixed up, to which he can have recourse on all

Shifting. - There is a difference of opinion relative to the time of shifting the auricula. Maddock thought, and many other florists think, that the best season is that immediately after the flowering ; because this, following the great effort of perfecting their bloom, finds the plants in a state of exhaustion or rest, and consequently better fitted to undergo such an operation. This, however, is an argument founded on their arti- ficial, rather than on their natural character ; be- cause it is obvious that the ripening their seeds

is the grand object and effort of the auricula, as well as that of all other plants. If, therefore, they have a season of rest, it must be after the latter event, not the former. For this, among other reasons, I am decidedly of opinion that the end of July, or the beginning of the month of August, is the most natural as well as the most proper for shifting the auricula, in order to afford them full time to be re-established in their flower- ing pots. It is at the same time necessary to add, that as the auricula is almost an ever-grow- ing plant, and less affected by the change of sea- sons than most other plants are, the individual state of each should be at all times attended to. Some individual plants, from inherent vigour or from peculiarly favourable circumstances, ad- vance before the others, and may require shifting from a smaller to a larger, or from a shallow to a deeper pot, at other than the regular season. A luxuriant-growing plant may require to be di- vested of its slips and repotted two months be- fore or immediately after flowering; so that in

respect of the auricula, general rules, however good, are not always applicable.

At the general shifting, the state and condition of each plant should be regarded and treated ac- cordingly. Such as have been previously shifted, and have improved in growth during the sum- mer, will only require to be transferred to larger- sized pots, reducing the ball a little by removing part of the old soil from the top and bottom, and repotting wath fresh compost. Such as have im- proved but little, or remained stationary, should receive a more severe examination, by having the whole of the ball shaken off, to see the state of the tuber and roots. Whenever there are signs of decay, the knife must be applied to remove every vestige, whether dead or dying leaves, fibres, or cankerous spots on the tuber; all which defects should be cut or pared away. The balls of all should be reduced more or less according to their state and the appearance of the roots. Such as appear sugged, compacted, and clingy should be entirely shaken off; but, if

porous, sweet, and well occupied by healthy fibres, the upper surface and part of the bottom only need be taken away. The plants should be pot- ted so that their lov/er leaves be half an inch above the surface of the mould, and this nearly an inch below the edge of the pot. This depth is necessary, in order to admit as large a top- dressing as possible in the month of February.

After being thus shifted and watered, the col- lection must be placed where there are full air and light, but defended from ardent or long-con- tinued sunshine, and also from heavy and immo- derate rain, the drip of trees, and the approach of worms or creeping insects ; there to recover and take fresh root, uninfluenced by extreme changes of weather.

It has already been observed, that the stage auricula is wholly a child of art; so much so, that it cannot bear the vicissitudes of the atmo- sphere with impunity. A certain degree of moisture for the roots, as well as leaves, is necessary at all times ; and this can only be applied by the attention of the cultivator. For

this purpose, each plant, when it arrives at a proper age, must not only have its own pot, but the collection must have a suitable platform or stage, fitted for its reception, raised high enough from the damp of the ground, and with coverings to exclude the sun and heavy rain, whenever necessary.

To combine with convenience all the advan- tages of shade and shelter required by auriculas, a double stage, protected by a double roof, is cer- tainly best. One side of the roof may be glazed lights or panels, and the other boarded shutters of the same dimensions, so that they may take each other's places as the season or state of the plants require. Tt would be superfluous to give direc- tions for such an erection ; so as the principle of its use, connected with convenience, is adhered to, local circumstances and views of the proprie- tor will direct all the particulars of dimension, place, and form. We may notice, however, a very common contrivance, constructed for keep- ing auriculas both in winter and summer. It is bailt in the form of an alcove, placed against a north or south wall accord ins: to the season.

Four substantial corner posts are fixed in the ground; the two behind are united by a plate five feet from the ground ; the two in front have also a plate six and a half or seven feet high ; the two ends and back below the plate are weather- boarded up. The roof is composed of moveable panels, sloping from front to back, of convenient length, fixed by hinges to the back plate, to admit of being thrown back at pleasure. These panels should be water-tight ; each having a ledge nailed to its edge, and which over-cills the next pan 1 to cover the joint between ; the last, of course, keeping all the others in place. The width of this alcove need not be more than about four feet from the back to the front posts. This will give room for a stage having four shelves dropping in position one below another, on which to set the pots, every one of which will be suffi- ciently within reach of both hand and eye. Such a frame and stage as this form a very suitable re- pository for auriculas during the winter months. By throwing back the roof, a warm shower or additional light and air may be occasionally ad-

mitted. The front being open to the southward allows the entrance of the mildest air at all times ; and, in severe weather, a curtain of mats, suspended from the front plate, and properly se- cured at the ends and bottom, will be, with a dou- ble mat or two thrown on the roof, a sufficient defence. If such a frame as this, intended for a small collection, were formed on truck wheels so that it might be turned to any aspect, it would serve as well for a summer as a winter repository, and answer all the purposes of a double-roofed

To such a receptacle as this, or to one having all its advantages of shade and free air, should the plants be removed after shifting ; and exposed to the east or north aspect, to remain till inclement weather from these quarters renders it necessary to take advantage of the subdued sunshine of a southern sky. Here, throughout the winter, they must be tended as has been already hinted.

Toj) dressing. - About the beginning of Febru- ary is the usual and best season for supplying every plant intended to flower with a top dressing

of rich, well-prepared compost. The surface- mould in each pot is first carefully loosened with a small stick and taken out ; dead or dying leaves are removed by pressing them off downwards: the pots are then filled up with fresh compost, watered, and returned to their places on the stage. While doing this, it is necessary to see that every pot is efficiently drained. If any ap- pear heavy, and have their surfaces covered with conferva or green moss, they should be looked to, lest imperfect drainage be the cause ; as nothing is so hurtful to the auricula as an excess of water at the root. At the same time, too, should any slips be fit to remove, they may be taken off and potted ; and, though at this season some of the strong growers may require larger pots, this had better be deferred till after they have done

While advancing into flower, regular watering and effectual protection against frost are chiefly to be attended to. Water should be given mode- rately and frequently to the root only, and not always over the leaves. If, however, an oppor-

tunity presents itself of exposing the plants to a warm spring shower, they should have the ad- vantage of it. Rain is peculiarly refreshing to all growing plants ; special care being taken that a night frost does not reach the plants before they are dry. Protection against frost is essentially necessary at this time, as a very slight attack destroys the fine colours of the flowers. Mr. Hogg advises covering even up to the time of full bloom.

The flowers of the auricula are not terminal ; the buds being seated on the sides of the rising stem among the leaves. They are irregularly developed : sometimes a leading one will rise from near the summit, and sometimes from the side lower down. If more than one truss come forth from the same stem, the strongest only should be allowed to stand, if it be wished to have flowers in the greatest perfection : the inferior trusses are in this case pinched off. And when the preferred truss begins to open its florets, these, if too numerous, require to be thinned, so as to leave no more than will compose a well-

balanced bunch of flowers. This regulation of the truss requires some dexterity. It is per- formed at different times during its expansion: the smallest central florets are cautiously cut nut with small-pointed scissors, leaving only from seven to thirteen of the strongest and most regu- larly placed florets, to rise and form a circular

When the flowering season has arrived, if they have not already, they must have a suitable place for this interesting period of their existence; and as they are portable, may be, if desirable, put on a stage or bed, and under an awning erected for other flowers. An exhibition of hyacinths and auriculas may be conveniently shewn together : but, wherever the station, the necessary supplies of water, fresh air, and mild light, must be punc- tually and amply given, and above all, constantly protected from the withering effects of the noon- tide sun. Trusses having weak stems, which bend or droop, should be supported by means of wires stuck in the soil, having an horizontally bent hook to hold the stem upright. Watering

with manured water (that is, such as has had dung of cows, pouhry, or pigeons, soaked in it) is recommended to be used at this time, as well as previously, for the purpose of imparting high colour to the flowers.

It is always desirable that the auricula should blow fairly; i. e. that the petals of each floret should expand in a plane, and be in no degree cupped. This is considered among professional florists so essential a property of a good flower, that pains are taken to produce this characteristic by exposing cupped flowers to the action of the sun's heat, under glass, slightly shaded. And besides this perfectly rational expedient to give the desired form, they have also small ivory tools with which they lock the petals under each other and turn the outer edges downwards, to alter the cup-like position. This is a refinement of taste and management only felt and exercised by those who exhibit their flowers at shows.

Auriculas sometimes present their flowers in autumn. This the florist regrets, because it pre- vents a fine bloom in the proper season. It is

said to be a consequence of shifting immediately after the flowering season ; but it happens only partially. To ensure a bloom from such forwar d plants at the proper season, it is only necessary to destroy the autumn flowers the instant they make their appearance : the next flower-bud in succession will soon be pushed forward as a sub-

Soon as the general bloom is over, the collec- tion must be removed to its summer repository. The plants should be examined as they pass through the hand on this occasion. Some, which have grown and flowered strongly, and whose roots appear above ground, may require to be shifted : dead leaves should be taken off, and the surface of each pot stirred and freshened up.

Respecting the summer station, it is only ne- cessary to repeat, that the florist's daily attention does not cease with the flowering season. Many fine auriculas are lost from want of proper care during the summer. To obtain sufficient shade, the plants are often placed in some dark, out-of- the-way corner, where there is too much humi-

dity. The rich qualities of the compost in which they grow are peculiarly acted on by the summer heat ; and this, not having due ventilation, be- comes corrupted, producing sickness among the plants often fatal. The fact is, they cannot have too much dry air during the summer, provided they are duly supplied with water. The consti- tution of the auricula requires pure air ; and therefore the summer stage or platform should receive all the advantage of free air, guarded only from the mid-day sun and from excessive rain.

That this plant is subject to disease, and that it frequently appears in the summer, are circum- stances well known. Mr. Hogg attributes this malady to there being too much cow-dung used in the compost, and especially if the plants be kept in a low, moist situation : yet, though Mad- dock admits that improper soil may be the cause of the misfortune, he is rather of opinion that it is a consequence of the neglect of shifting after the flowering season ; adding, most unaccount- ably, that this malady seldom or never occurs in a wet or cool climate !

This disease is also said to be infectious; but, from its sweeping effects when and where it does happen, it is manifest that either the soil or situ- ation is unfavourable. It is therefore good ma- nagement, so soon as one appears to be affected, to shift the whole into fresh loamy compost, and give them a drier situation.

Descriptio?i of a Jine auricula. - " The stem should be strong, erect, and elastic, of a proper height, that the bunch or truss may be above the foliage of the plant. The footstalks of the florets should also be strong and elastic, and of a propor- tional length to the size and quantity of the pips, which should not be less than seven in number, that the bunch may be rather round, close, and

" The parts of the floret are the tube, the eye, and the exterior circle, containing the ground colour, with its edge or margin : these three should be all well proportioned, which will be the case if the diameter of the floret be supposed to be divided into six parts ; of which the dia-

meter of the eye will occupy three, the tube being one, and the ground colour the other parts.

*' Florists agree that the florets should be round : but this seldom happens ; and we must be content if they are so nearly round as not to be what is termed starry.

" The anthers ought to be large, bold, and fill the tube well ; and the tube should terminate rather above the surface of the eye, like a little cup or margin ; the eye should be very white, smooth, and round, without any cracks, and dis- tinct from the ground or self colour.

" The ground colour should be intense and rich, and equal on every side of the eye, whether it be in one uniform circular belt, or in bright patches ; it should be distinct at the eye, and only broken at the outer part into the edging ; a fine black, purple, or bright coffee colour contrasts best with the eye ; a rich blue or bright pink is pleasing ; but a glowing scarlet, or deep crimson, would be most desirable, if well edged with a bright green ; but this must seldom be expected."

Class, PEXTANDRIA. Order, MONOGYNIA. Natural Order, PRIMULACE.E.

The polyanthus, in the structure of its roots, tuber, stem, leaves, and mode of flowering, re- sembles its sister the auricula ; and it is as much a production of art. Being naturally a native of moist woods and meadows, is much hardier, and better suited to the soil and climate of British gardens, than the auricula. It differs, moreover, in being a variety only, and not, like the other, a distinct species.

Its propagation, whether from seeds or offsets, and its cultivation, either as a bed or stage flower, is, in almost all respects, similar to the auricula.

The difference in the treatment only requires to be noticed.

The compost for the polyanthus does not re- quire to be so rich as that for the auricula. The principal part should be fresh and rather sandy loam, mixed with moderate portions of leaf mould and well-rotted old hot-bed or cow-dung.

They may be flowered in pots for the purpose of being shewn, placed on a stage, in a conser- vatory or boudoir ; but, soon as they have done flowering, they should be immediately turned out into a north or east open border. Their fibres being very attenuated are liable to be hurt by drought, and consequently require a more equable degree of both heat and moisture than they can receive in pots. But, if in pots, they should be kept plunged in the ground in a similar place ; i. e. on a border having an east or north aspect.

They are commonly cultivated on such bor- ders, because they succeed best. An east aspect seems most congenial to them : they delight in the early sun, whether of the year or of the day. If the natural soil of the border be unsuitable,

the top spit, to the depth of twelve inches, should be taken out, and in the bottom of the excavation should be laid a stratum of rotten cow-dung-, two inches thick. This is not intended to be reached except by the extreme points of the fibres, should they descend so far, but to serve as a reservoir of moisture, and a source of gaseous vapour to give high colour to the flowers. This rich layer is to be covered with a compost (described above) to receive the plants ; these being put in at equal distances of about eight inches apart.

In dry weather, they will require frequent watering, and especially if attacked by a species of acarus, commonly called red spider, which is very prejudicial to them. These little insects are not so easily driven from the polyanthus as they are from some other trees and plants, because they can secrete themselves in the under cavities of the leaves, to which water cannot be easily in- troduced. Two or three applications of tobacco water, thrown forcibly on with a garden syringe while the lower leaves are held up, is one means of ridding the plants of them ; but this will

require to be repeated very often in dry wea- ther. Slugs, snails, and earth-worms, should be banished with lime water.

The very choice sorts, when in flower, should have the shelter of a hand-glass, to preserve their beauty as long as possible. Except those intended to ripen their seed, all should have their flower stems cut away soon as the flowers have faded. Being prolific bearers of seed, its produc- tion receives a great portion of the strength of the plant ; consequently, the shoots and flowers for the next year are diminutive ; which would not be the case, if prevented from perfecting

Description of a fine 'polyanthus. - " Its proper- ties are in most respects similar to those of a fine auricula, viz. the stem, pedicles, and formation of the truss ; therefore a definition of its florets and petals are only necessary to be considered in this place.

*' The tube of the corolla should be short, well filled with anthers, and terminate fluted, rather above the eye.

" The eye should be round, of a bright clear yellow, and distinct from the ground colour : the proportion, as in the auricula, throughout the

" The ground colour is most admired when shaded with a light and dark rich crimson, resem- bling velvet, with one mark or stripe in the centre of each division of the corolla, bold and distinct from the edging down to the eye, where it should terminate in a fine point.

" The florets should be large, quite flat, and as round as is consistent with their peculiar, beautiful figure, which is circular, excepting those small indentures between each division of the corolla.

" The edging should resemble a bright gold lace, bold, clear, and well defined, and so nearly of the same colour as the eye and stripes, as scarcely to be distinguished.'' - Madd.

There are many curious, improved varieties of the primrose ; such as the different-coloured double ones, which are well worth cultivation. Of species, a few have been lately added to

British collections, particularly a very shewy one, Primula sinensis^ from China, which is at present a great favourite. As this is a pretty hardy, free-growing plant, there is no doubt that, by high cultivation in highly compounded soils, it may assume all the diversity of form and co- lour so remarkable in its congener of European

Class, DECANDRIA. Order, DYGYNIA.

Natural Order, CARYOPHYLLE^.

As there is no plant more valued for its beauty and fine scent than the carnation, so no one has received more attention from the flower-gardener. In regard of this plant, cultivation has done wonders ! When we consider the diminutive appearance of the wild clove, as it grows on the walls of Rochester castle in Kent, and on other its native places on the Continent, and compare it with its splendid offspring, such as Fulhrook^s Grenadier^ rising four or five feet high, we know not which to admire most ; the triumphant per-

severance of the florist, or the astonishing versa- tihty of vegetable power.

Much has been written on the culture of this universal favourite : and, so universally has it been cultivated in Europe, that the management has long ago been reduced into a code of practical rules. The rich spicy fragrance of the flower was, no doubt, originally an easy passport for it to a distinguished place in the parterre. There, it would naturally become, under ordinary treat- ment, more robust in habit; its seedlings would soon partake of this luxuriance ; the flowers would next become exuberant; hence would ap_ pear the rich-coloured and odorous clove. Con- tinued cultivation, by change of soil and situa- tion, would break its self-colour into lighter tints, and, by progressive grades of variation, become, what we now find it, the admirable carnation. It is said that the variegated clove first appeared in Italy ; but, though much cultivated there, as well as along the whole northern coast of the Mediter- ranean, it is certain the more indefatigable florists of France, Holland, and England, have chiefly

contributed to bring the flower, as well as its culture, to its present perfection.

The carnation is raised from seed, and propa- gated by cuttings and layers.

Raising from the seed affords the only chance of obtaining new varieties; and, though the chance of obtaining really good kinds is ex- tremely precarious, yet it is the most interesting part of a florist's amusement. Much depends on choosing proper breeders, and procuring well- ripened seed. To secure this, some management is necessary in the treatment of the seed-bearing plants. These must receive every attention as to due watering, protection, &c. Such of the cap- sules as appear to be fecundified should be as- sisted by being divested of the decaying petals, by pulling them away with the tweezers*, taking care not to injure the stigmas or pericarpium; by cutting off the reflexed extremities of the calyx with scissors, and also by slitting down the latter

* A piece of brass or copper wire, ten inches long, ham- mered flat at each end, and afterwards bent into the form of

sugar-tongs.

to the bottom with a penknife. This trimming is to prevent moisture settling round the swelling capsule. The seed ripens about the end of Sep- tember, and should not be gathered till it is of a dark brown or black colour. It should be kept in a dry place, and in the capsules, till after Christmas, when it may be rubbed out and put up in paper, or, in what Hr. Hogg thinks better, small well-corked phials.

The seed should be sown about the middle of April, in deep seedling pans or large pots, and covered lightly with finely sifted compost. If placed in a glazed frame or under a hand-glass, they will, if properly attended to, rise quickly and in more safety. Wlien up and furnished with two or three pairs of leaves, inure them to the full air as soon as possible, to check them running up too spindling ; and soon after this, they may be planted out in beds about ten inches apart, where they may remain to flower. The bed or beds should be prepared by deep digging, and enriched by a pretty liberal dressing of rotten dung and leaf mould ; and no wider than can be

easily covered by hoops and mats when necessary either against extreme heat or severe frost.

Mr. Hogg estimates the chance of raising a first-rate flower from seed as only one in a hun- dred : of course, he means such only as might be entitled to a prize in a show. But this view aside, many new and truly beautiful varieties may be raised from seed, which, though not exactly formed and coloured according to the beau ideal of pro- fessional taste, may nevertheless be highly orna- mental in the border, if not on the stage.

Propagation by cuttings, or, as they are called, pipings, is performed about the end of June or during the first fortnight of July. They should be chosen from plants having a redundance of shoots, or such shoots as are situated too high on the stem for layering. It has already been observed, that the shoots proper for this purpose are the secondary shoots of the plant, and which, if left attached, are destined to rise into flower the next or following years. But as these shoots would grow into irregular position, and likewise blow feebly and imperfectly, it is found much

better to remove the tops containing the embryo flower, and, by striking them, establish a new individual, convenient as to size, which being supported by a new set of active fibres, becomes vigorous in constitution. This is a concentration of the energies of the system, by which it is de- veloped in greater amplitude in all its parts ; and is also the sole and chief advantage of propaga-

Pipings are easiest struck on a little artificial heat under bell or small hand-glasses. The size of the glasses determines the size of the pans or pots intended for the pipings. These are filled with proper compost, set in the bed, and the glasses fitted on to mark the boundary line with- in which the pipings are to be set : the next thing is to get and prepare the latter.

At the second joint from the top of the shoot, the cutting is to be separated horizontally, and just below the joint. The leaves embracing this joint must be carefully stripped off; and when the points of the leaves are also cut square off, the cutting is prepared. The mould in the pots

prepared for their reception should be previously watered ; and, when somewhat settled, the pipings may be inserted, or gently stuck in, rather better than half an inch deep, and not too much crowded together. When the space within the glass is filled up, give water with a fine rose on the watering-pot, to settle the earth closely to the cuttings ; and when this water is absorbed and evaporated off, cover them with the glasses ; observing that, wherever they may be placed, whether in a hot or cold frame, or in a quiet corner in the open air, no full sun should have access to them, nor any unnecessary mois- ture be allowed to remain within the glass.

The reasons for thus preparing and planting the cuttings require some explanation. The tops of the shoots are chosen, because we find that, wherever the growth is most active (so as the parts are sufficiently organized and substantial to resist the decomposing effects of moisture), there the fibrous rootlets are soonest produced, and much more vigorously than from the lovi'er parts of the shoot. They are cut just below the node

or joint, because these nodes contain several vital buds, which, like seeds, protrude fibres more promptly than the internodal parts. The tops of the leaves are cut off, because it is supposed that they draw a part of their nou- rishment from the stem, and therefore should be reduced while the cutting is forming its roots. Although this mutilation is directly opposed to the modern doctrine of botanical tions of the leaves, yet in this case the practice seems to be right ; because the points, if allowed to remain, very soon die. But whether their juices be abstracted by the exertion of the cut- ting, or fail from the supply of sap from the root being cut off, I shall leave to the practitioner to judge. Before the fibres are protruded from the bottom of the piping, a callosity is first formed, as if exuded fi:om within the inner bark ; from this the fibres are produced ; and while this cal- losity continues to increase, the cutting lives, but, sometimes, will put forth no fibres till shifted into fresh compost.

Propa<^ation by layers is more certain than that by cuttings, and is the most common method pursued, especially with the choicer sorts. The usual time is when the plants are in full flower, or immediately afterwards. Choose the shoots which are most conveniently placed for layering-. Trim off all the leaves, except those at the extre- mity, which only require their ends shortened as is advised to be done with pipings. Then, clearing the surface of the pot or border, and stirring it up a little, lay on round the plant an addition of fine fresh compost of sufficient thick- ness to receive the layers. A bundle of little hooked sticks, about five inches long, should be previously got ready : those made from the stalks of fern will very well answer the purpose. A thin, keen penknife is most convenient for mak- ing the incisions. Lifting up the shoot with one hand, and bending it towards the stem of the plant, enter the knife about a quarter of an inch below the second joint from the top, sloping the edge inwards and upwards so as to divide the joint and shoot up the middle, nearly as far as the

joint above. The knife is withdrawn, and the small portion of the stem attached to and below the severed joint of the tongue is next cut off horizontally, close below, not into the joint. Tile bottom part of the layer is then to be fixed down close upon the surface by a hook placed just behind the incision ; and the extremity raised rather upright, so that the tongue may be separated some little distance from that part of the stem whence it has been cut ; propping the extremity secure by pressing the earth closely about it. It is almost needless to add, that the shoots, being brittle, and especially after the incision is made, they are easily broken ; so that they require very gentle handling while fixing them in due position.

Many layers are lost, or prevented striking kindly, by being covered too deep. The end of the tongue, from whence the new roots chiefly proceed, should not be more than about half an inch beneath the surface. This circumstance should be particularly attended to in the treat- ment of carnation layers and cuttings, as well as

almost all other plants propagated by such means. A large portion of air, if it can be applied with- out light, seems necessary to excite the production of roots : thus cuttings, in immediate contact with the sides or bottom of striking pots, as well as near the surface, strike root more readily than if placed out of the reach or immediate action of the air. Precaution, however, is neces- sary, lest drought assail the delicate fibres so near its influence ; to guard against which, moderate waterings and shading must be had recourse to. In piping and layering carnations, there are several minor circumstances which should be mentioned in this place. Professional florists raise their pipings on a hot-bed, which, when of proper heat, is covered with suitable compost, on which the striking-glasses are set, and filled with pipings not too close together. Here they are nursed, and from hence they are potted off as soon as they advance in growth. This is a great advantage, because the growth of pipings is unequal; and according to their advancement should they be treated in respect of the supply

of air and water. The use of small striking- glasses is, that they contain a small portion only of air, entirely excluded from the frequent changes of the atmosphere ; but this should be always kept as free as possible from damp, which can be done only by frequent and seasonable airing's, on mornings or in mild weather.

Pipings should be labelled; because, if the plant from which they have been taken prove a run fiower*, its progeny will not be worth culti- vation. If a considerable number remain sta- tionary in the first bed, a second is made, to which they are transferred, and which seldom fails to start them. When all are in motion, the glasses may be laid aside.

The pots containing carnations intended to be layered should be well watered the day be- fore ; and, if exposed to the morning sun for an hour or two before layering, it will give the

* A run flower is one which runs from or loses that fine variety of colours for which it has been before admired, and by which it has been distinguished.

shoots a degree of toughness favourable to the

While layers are in progress, the only atten- tion they require is to see that they keep steady in their places ; that they do not get too dry ; nor the excised part become too much exposed to the air.

Should the weather, and all other circum- will be sufficiently rooted to be potted in six or seven weeks. Pots, forty-eight to the cast, will be large enough to receive three cuttings or layers in each. These pots being drained and nearly filled with compost, the cuttings are carefully raised with a pointed stick or small iron spud, and placed at equal distances round the outside, covered in with compost, and well shaken or lightly pressed down securely in the pot, leaving the surface half an inch below the rim to receive waterings. The layers are cut from their stools just above where the incision was made, raised, and planted in pots in a similar manner. The young plants, after being duly watered, are

removed to a shady situation, where, however, they can receive all the advantages of free air, morning' sun, regular watering, and defence from may remain to estabHsh themselves in the pots, till the season renders their removal to their winter quarters necessary.

The winter repository proper for the carna- tion, is, in every respect, like that advised for the auricula. It should be designed so as to admit fully all the temperate influences of the weather, and yet be capable of being formed into a com- plete defence against extremes. Small collec- tions are usually kept in common glazed hot- bed frames, set on a raised platform of coal-dust and ashes ; the frame being raised on bricks to allow a current of air to pass freely among the pots in fine weather ; and let down close to the ground when it is inclement or stormy. Some- times the frame is filled nearly up to the glass with coal-dust, and the pots plunged therein. In either way, when coverings of mats may be added at pleasure, the carnation can never suffer

from the rigour of winter. During this dead season, they will require water occasionally, ap- plied from the spout of a small pot, so as not to wet the leaves ; because it may happen that if shut up when the leaves are wet, they may suffer by damp or mould. For the same reason the plants should be kept free from dead leaves, and have the surface of the pots now and then stirred up, and, if need be, covered with a sprinkling of

About the middle of March, and especially if the weather be inviting, preparations should be made for shifting the plants into their flowering pots. Any tim.e between this and before the tenth of April, is a good season. The ordinary sized pots for this purpose, are those called six- teens ; and if the plants are strong, even twelves are not too large. These sizes are chosen in order that full room may be had for layering. The potting-board and compost (which will be described presently) being ready, first put the draining shells or shards over the hole in the bottom of the pot; cover these with a handful

or two of the rough nodules that do not pass the sieve or screen ; then fill up with the fine com- post as far as is necessary to allow the reception of the plants. These, whether in pairs, threes, or fours, are turned out of the small pots, leaving the ball entire; only taking away a little of the top and bottom ; place this in the middle of the large pot, very little deeper than it was before ; fill up round with the sifted compost, striking the pot several times on the ground or potting-board, to settle the contents equally and compactly; giving water immediately.

At this time the number and kinds are selected for the stage (if so intended), together with a certain number of supernumeraries to supply blanks, should any occur. The remainder, if any, should be planted on a prepared border, to flower there. It is said that, if the stage plants were selected when first potted, and the surplus planted at once into a bed, they would stand the winter, with ordinary care, and flower better than if kept in pots till the spring. This, however, is always determined by the opinion or

convenience of the possessor. After being- thus potted, they should be set in some convenient airy place, till they are sufficiently advanced to be set on the flowering- stage. Some cultivators place them on this stage at once, and erect the awning over them when necessary.

During the ensuing period, the plants send forth their flower-stem ; and, soon as they have risen so as to be in jeopardy of falling, or being broken by the wind, suitable propping-sticks are thrust perpendicularly into the centre of the pot, to which the stems, as they advance in height, must be neatly and securely tied. These sticks are four feet long, made of good deal, and formed like an arrow : the part which enters the earth is tapered off^ square, and the whole is painted of a lively green.

By and by the flower-buds appear. One, two, or three, only, of these are suffered to blow : all others, together with any side-shoots issuing from the stem, should be displaced soon as they come forth. If the aphides shew themselves, banish them as soon as possible by the means

herein-before mentioned; and be guarded against the attack of earwugs. Give plenty of water ; and, if the foliage is not of a deep, luxuriant green, revive it with manured water.

Next follows the peculiar practice of the pro- fessional florist. Soon as the calyx, or pod, as it is technically called, begins to open at the top, fix a band of bass or waxed thread round its middle : this is to prevent the calyx bursting irregularly : and, as it naturally opens by its clefts parting from the top downwards, should one side incline to burst faster than the other, the cleft or clefts on the opposite side should be opened by the point of a penknife, to give free- dom to the petals to expand themselves equally all round.

As some sorts and flowers expand before the generality of the collection, it is necessary to pre- serve these flowers till they are overtaken by the rest. For this purpose, funnel or rather umbrella shaped pasteboard shades are used, which, by a hole in the centre, are slipped on the flower-stick, and fixed just above the flowers.

Soon after this, all the best flowers will require additional assistance for the purpose of keeping the flowers in due form. This is called carding;. Circular pieces of card-board, of any colour which will best answer the purpose of a back- ground to the flower, are cut so as to surround the pod immediately behind the spreading; petals of the corolla. They are about two inches and a half in diameter. The usual form of making them, is with a hole in the centre of the card, large enough to fit the pod, with a slit from that to the circumference, held open when put on. But an improved card is made by first dividing the circumference into six equal parts, and marked : between the opposite points or marks cuts are made through the centre, but not carried out to the circumference ; a margin, nearly an inch wide, being left entire all round, except at one place, to admit the stem. When this card is pnt on, the stem below the pod is first taken in, and, by raising the card to its place, the angular points, meeting at the centre, give way outwards.

and, being elastic, firmly embrace the lower part

of the pod, which keeps it in place.

Besides this carding the flowers, which keeps the petals in due lateral position, another mani- pulation is bestowed in dressing a show-flower ; i. e. by arranging the petals themselves, pulling out bad-coloured or redundant ones, and placing all the rest in regular order. This branch of the knowledge of a real and thorough-bred florist, Mr. Hogg says, is a rare accomplishment, and exercised adroitly but by few.

The flowers, when full blown, are too heavy to be trusted to the sole support of their own slen- der peduncles. They should also be gracefully disposed to meet the eye of the spectator. For this purpose, small pieces of brass or copper wire, about three or four inches long, having a spiral crook at one end, to hold the stem, and sharp at the other, to be inserted into the stick, serve to secure the flowers in the desired position.

When the plants and flowers are all thus disposed, and in progress towards perfection (the

awning in the mean time being erected, and the paste-board caps or shades all removed), the owner has little to do but enjoy the fine spectacle ; mark the excellencies of some, and note down the defects of others ; observe the effects of any change made in the management ; try cross- impregnation between those whose properties of growth, form, or colour, he may wish to blend ; remembering, however, to keep such plants but as short a time as possible within the awning-, as they should have full air and light as soon as it is likely they are fecundified.

Old plants, having several healthy shoots not wanted for either pipings or layers, may be kept through the winter, and either repotted with the rest or turned out into the flower borders in the

Carnations continue in bloom about three weeks ; and, as they become rather enfeebled under the confinement of the awning, they should be restored to full air and light soon as their beauty is over, and the business of layering

begun, to go over again the course of culture which has been ah'eady traced.

The distinguishing characters of carnations in regard to each other, as applied by florists, are :

Bizarres* ; scarlet, crimson, purple, and pink and purple.

Flakes ; scarlet, purple, rose, and pink.

" Bizarres, or such as contain two colours upon a white ground, are esteemed rather preferable to flakes, which have but one, especially when their colours are remarkably rich and very regularly distributed. Scarlet, purple, and pink, are the three colours most predominant in the carnation : the two first are seldom to be met with in the same flower ; but the two last are very frequently. When the scarlet predominates, and is united with a paler colour, or, as it sometimes happens, with a very deep purple upon a white ground, it con- stitutes a scarlet bizarre, of which there are many shades and varieties, some richer and others paler

* Or Bizards.

in their colours, as is the case with all the rest. Pink bizarres, are so called when the pink colour abounds: Purple bizarres, when the purple abounds. Crimson bizarres consist of a deep purple and rich pink. When the pink flake is very high in colour, it is distinguished by the appellation of rose flake ; but some there are so nearly in the medium betwixt a pink and scarlet, that it can scarcely be defined to which class they belong." - Madd.

Compost. - All our experience proves that the carnation requires a simpler combination of sub- stances to flourish in than most other stage flowers. Fresh maiden loam, not too adhesive, rotten or old hot-bed dung, and sand, are the ingredients. The proportions are : three barrowfuls of loam ; two ditto of rotten dung ; and one ditto of drift, sea, or river sand.

These, put together in September, turned several times during the winter, and sifted or screened previous to the potting season, is all the preparation necessary.

This is nearly what Mr. Hogg recommends.

But, in November, he adds about half a barrow- ful of newly slacked lime, and early in the spring-, two or three pounds of common salt. Both these substances are particularly useful to kill or drive worms and slugs from the compost; which is of most material consequence in the cul- ture of a plant that is at all seasons the prey of snails and slugs. Whether these substances also add to the qualities of the soil necessary for the carnation, is not so certain; further than as they both are, in all other cases, absorbents, tending to keep the soil more moist, both in summer and winter, than itw^ould otherwise be. To assist the vigorous expansion of the leaves and flowers of this plant, it has been recommended to water them occasionally with a weak solution of nitre.

For top-dressing in June, finely sifted rotten dung is most proper, as well in yielding- nutriment conveyed down by each watering, as acting as a mulch in repelling drought.

For pipings and layers, the best mixture is: one barrowful of loam ; one ditto of leaf-mould; one of rotten hot-bed dung; and one of fine sand.

. " High-coloured bizarres flower well in soil composed of two-thirds fresh sandy loam and one-third well-rotted stable- dung. Scarlet, rose, or purple flakes require equal parts of maiden loam and rotten dung-." - Cornfield, in Gard.

There are some varieties of carnations which are, more than others, liable " to run'' from their distinguishing colours, and thereby lose their value. All the varieties are subject to this dete- rioration at certain times, and under circum- stances not easily accounted for. They occa- sionally lose their variegation, whether they are placed in rich or in poor soil. But, as the car- nation has been brought from deep to lighter colours by cultivation, and as it is evident that deeper colours are imparted by the application of strong or rich animal substances, Mr. Hogg is perfectly right in advising to lower the quality of the compost to prevent this casualty. For this purpose he recommends " three barrows of sound loam; one ditto rotten cow-dung; two ditto ditto horse-dung ; half a ditto sand ; and half a

ditto of lime rubbish or old plaster broken small, to be prepared and well mixed together."

; Of this compost I have only to observe, that the cow-dung had better be left out ; for, though it may improve the high colours of scarlet and crimson bizarres, it will be likely to cause some of them to go back to their original hue.

Of the picotee. - The picotee is another variety of the clove. It is hardier, and more easy of cultivation generally, than the carnation ; and holds the middle station betvveen this and the pink. It partakes of the nature of both ; and it may not be a very irrational supposition, that it was originally a joint production between them ; though, probably, the picotee was in existence before the carnation; and, if so, is more likely to have been " a sport" between the clove and the pink. Be this as it may, it is a very interesting variety of the genus, and though not allowed a place among carnations, lest it should deterio- rate their forms and colours, it is still every way worthy to receive a share of their treatment, with which it will do well.

picoTEE. 1 ro-

of picotees there are many sorts, chiefly dif- fering in their colour and various markings ; viz. besides the common ones in every English garden, there are yellow and purple ; yellow and dark red; yellow and scarlet, &c. They are much cultivated on the Continent, particularly those having a yellow ground colour : and such of them as have been introduced here appear to be more delicate in constitution than our com- mon sorts, and require a drier atmosphere than our climate usually affords. Therefore they should have the driest place in the frame in winter, and never be too much watered. When they are more generally known and propagated in this country, their habits may become robust, and their cultivation better understood. Mr. Hogg advises them to be grown in compost like that made up for piping and layering carnations. The common picotee being a flower of the greatest diversity of colours and variety of mark- ings by accident, gives reason to imagine, that it would be particularly susceptible of impressions from the hand of the curious florist. It is worth a

trial : a new form of petals maybe communicated from the carnation, and it may receive a yellow tinge from the yellow picotee ; and, however such crossing- might interfere with the ready- made taste and fixed rules of the fancy, still a new description and variety of dianthus may be obtained, as worthy of admiration as the others.

Their cultivaiion is exactly like that of the carnation. They may be raised from seed, and propagated by layers and pipings ; succeeding by the latter mode rather better than the carnation.

It is desirable to procure seed from Italy and the southern parts of France and Spain. The dianthus tribe is universally cultivated in the latter Idngdom, where they have innumerable

Class, DECANDRIA. Oudeu, DIGYNIA. NATuitAL Ok»er, CARYOPHYLLE^.

The pink is cultivated every where, often being the principal ornament of the cottage garden. Its manner of growth, flowering, cul- tivation, and propagation, are all similar to the

For the purpose of forcing, for sale, or for placing in conservatories, green or dwelling houses, they are kept in pots ; but for flowering in perfection they are planted on prepared beds in the open ground.

Although pinks may be propagated by layers, it is seldom such care is bestowed ; they striking so readily by pipings.

The beds should be prepared in September, much in the same way as is directed for the car- nation. The surface should be raised two or three inches above the natural level of the ground, and laid rounding, or highest along the middle, to throw off immoderate wT,t. The plants should be put in about nine inches apart; and, in order to have them strong, they should be piped as early in the season as possible, and soon as sufficiently rooted should be transferred to a nursery bed, to gain strength before they are put out for good.

They may require occasional defence in rigid weather, by hoops and mats ; and after being hoed among in the spring, and the soil made firm round their stems if necessary, receive a covering of sifted rotten dung, about an inch thick. This will be a source of nutriment to the plants, and prevent the bed becoming too dry. When they throw up the flower stems, these should be reduced in number according to the size of the plant. The fewer there are allowed to stand, the stronger will be those that are left.

They have received their generic name from the circumstance of their fine scent, and magni- ficence of their numerous flowers. These should he reduced : one, or at most two, besides the central flower, is enough. The flower-pods should be assisted to open regularly, by girding, &c. as practised with carnations; as well as carding, tying up, shading, and always well supplied with water.

The pink is easily susceptible of cross im- pregnation, and many new varieties are obtained by such means. M. Fries-Morel, a French florist, advises it to be done in the following manner:-^ '' Just before sunrise, open carefully the flower to be operated on, and abstract the anthers with small pincers. About eight or nine o'clock place the ripe pollen upon the stigma of the flower, and repeat this two or three times in the course of the same day. If the act of impregnation has taken place, the flower will fade in twenty-four or thirty-six hours ; but if not, the flower will remain in full beauty ; in which case the attempt

must be repeated. This should always be done in fine serene weather, and care should be taken to defend the impregnated flower from rain and mists." - Annates de la Soc. Hort. Paris.

The cultivation and improvement of this highly and universally esteemed flower has been greatly extended within these last few years, and the new varieties are wonderfully fine ; some of them even vying with the carnation : still there is room for further improvement.

Description of a fine clouhle pink. - "The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, and not less than twelve inches high. The calyx rather smaller and shorter, but nearly similar in form and proportion to that of a carnation ; the flower should be also similar in form, and not less than two and a half inches diameter.

" The petals should be large, broad, and sub- stantial, and have very fine fringed or serrated edges, free from large, coarse, deep notches or indentures ; in short, they approach nearest to perfection when the fringe or the edge is so fine

as scarcely to be discernible : but it would be considered a very desirable object to obtain them perfectly rose-leaved, i. e. without any fringe at

" The broadest part of the petals should be perfectly white and distinct from the eye, unless it be ornamented by a continuation of the colour of the eye round it, when it would be called a laced pink ; and this lacing should be well de- fined, leaving a considerable proportion of white in the centre, perfectly free from any tinge or

" The eye should consist of a bright or dark rich crimson or purple, resembling velvet ; but the nearer it approaches to black, the more it is esteemed; its proportion should be about equal to that of the white, that it may neither appear too large or too small." - Madd.

Although specific directions have been given for the cultivation and treatment of the several kinds of flowering plants herein-before men- tioned ; each being described as coming into

bloom at the natural season ; yet it must be ob- served, that the business of a florist is, not only to have flowers in season, but out of season also. By choosing the time of planting, many kinds may be made to flower at other seasons than they would do if left to nature. The florist should therefore avail himself of every such practical expedient, in order that his beds and borders may always present something pleasing to the eye. Many flowering plants which would be destroyed by the first frost, may, if placed in pots, be removed to a place of safety; or, if not in pots, preserved by a slight covering. Early flowers may be forwarded by having a winter's pro- ection ; and especially by a Httle spring forcing. All biennial flowers, as stocks and wallflowers; and perennials, as cyclamens, &c., may be ad- vanced into bloom at an acceptable season, as well as many other annuals and perennials that are ornamental. The florist should never be bound by the naked rules laid down in this or any

may best accommodate the public - his employer - or his own fancy. Nature, though she cannot be violently thwarted, may be led to answer many purposes of skilful art.

The foregoing are the bed and stage flowers commonly cultivated in Britain. It is surprising with what ardour this art is followed, not only among professional men, whose interest is a suf- ficiently powerful incentive, but by those of very different avocations who have nothing but the pure love of flowers to induce, and intense en- thusiasm to excite them to cultivate those gems of vegetation for their own gratification. This species of amusement may be undervalued by the utilitarian, as a vain employment; but nothing can be called useless which so mainly administers to innocent, mental, and social enjoyment.

As these pages are written entirely with a view to assist and encourage this rational pursuit, and as the foregoing are not the only flowers which deserve a place in the villager's or cottager's garden, it will not be superfluous to add a list of

hardy herbaceous flowers which are as admirable in themselves, as they are easy of cultivation. See list No. 1, of the Appendix.

In order to make this little work of more general utility, it is deemed expedient to add somewhat on the subject of tender exotic flowers. Many who are engaged in the cultivation of bed and stage flowers have, or may have collections of exotics also, in hot-houses, green-houses, or conservatories ; to whom the following observa- tions may not be wholly useless or unacceptable. Of the hot- house midits plants . Hot-houses are glazed structures for the preservation of tropical exotics. They are designed for the cultivation of fruit, particularly the pine-apple ; and like- wise for plants that are either curious in form or remarkable for the beauty of their foliage, or splendour of their flowers. To imitate the na- tive climate of tropical plants, a high degree of heat from fire, steam, or hot-water flues, must be

maintained at all seasons, when required. Not only the air of the house must be kept at the temperature of not less than 60°, and with power to increase it, but the pit containing the pots must be filled with tanner's bark, or some other fomenting substance, to produce a strongly ex- citing bottom heat. By this artificial climate many plants are preserved, flowered, and fruited in great perfection.

It has been questioned how far the custom of pical plants is right or necessary. Comparing the heat of their native soil with that which we give them here, is one way of ascertaining the requisite degree; but in this point we do not imitate nature exactly; because, in no situation within the tropics, except perhaps the barren African sands, is the soil (where there is any moisture at all) ever so warm as the bark bed of a hot-house ; and, therefore, it may appear that we are at unnecessary pains and expense in giving such bottom heat. That we are so with plants which we only wish to keep in existence,

or only to flower once in the year, there can be no doubt; because the heat in the air of the house will be sufficiently imparted to the soil in it. And though this custom may have been only accidentally adopted from what was found ne- cessary for pines, yet it need not be persisted in, except for those or other fruits. Even its necessity for fruits has been doubted ; but such doubts are injudicious, because, in the case of fruit, we must not only provide the necessary temperature for their existence, but must also force them to yield their fruit in the shortest time possible, to save expense and trouble. This, therefore, should be the rule, that with pines, the roots require to be excited by heat as much as, and perhaps even more than, the flowers and foliage ; but for the other common inmates of a hot-house, they do very well without, especially if the heat of steam or hot water be provided.

Collections of hot-house plants are first formed by purchases from commercial houses, or from seeds or plants imported from their native places

abroad, and are afterwards kept up by methods of propagation, about to be adverted to.

When seeds are received from abroad, it is of considerable importance to know, not only what latitude they come from, but also the elevation of their natural habitat above the level of the sea. The higher the elevation, the hardier is the plant. Many plants which may be supposed to require a hot-house, from the latitude whence they come, may be found hardy enough for the green-house, or even the open air, if they be seasonal* plants. Bat for the natives of low lands of the torrid zone, the usual process of raising them is as

If possible, they should be sowed so as to meet our summer, not our winter. The spring months are most propitious for raising exotics. For this purpose, Hght sandy loam, convenient sized perfectly clean pots (open thirty-twos), and a one-light hot-bed, should be prepared.

* Seasonal plants are such as grow in one season and rest in another.

The pots are filled in the ordinary way, the finest of the loam at top; the seeds are sown thin, or thickly, according to their size, and in depth ac- cording to the nature of the plant. Some vegetate sooner, by being soaked two or three hours in water; others having very hard shells, as Nelum- bium and other aquatics, should have the points of their shells filed off before they are put into their pans of mud and water ; but the generality need no such preparation. They require a smart bottom heat to start them ; some will be up in the course of a week, others will remain for twelve months before they vegetate ; and such should not be rashly thrown away, till it is ascertained by examination that they are really dead. This precaution is particularly necessary in regard of

When any are advanced so far as to be fit to handle, they should be put singly into the smallest sized pots, and again plunged in heat. Atten- tion should be given not to over-pot them, i. e. by placing them in over-large pots. It has been already observed, in speaking of layers and cut-

tings of hardy plants, that the point most favour- able to the formation and production of roots is but at a little distance below the surface ; and that humid darkness within the influence of air excites the protrusion of roots more readily than at depths beyond the influence of that element. Small pots, therefore, to which air has free access on all sides, are found to forward the plants they contain much better than large pots, which, containing amass impervious to air, the centre of which is occupied by the infant plant, are found to retard rather than advance their growth. That plants so placed require frequent shifting, is true; but this is all in their favour, if quick growth be

After this period of their nursing, they then take their places in the hot-house, either plunged in the bark-bed, or set on the shelves over the flues, or on the kirb of the pit.

Hot-house plants are also propagated by cut- tings. Much judgment is necessary in selecting such shoots as are proper. They should be shoots or parts of shoots of the present year; either of

the leading shoots, which make the handsomest plants (if not too rampant and succulent for the purpose), or from the lateral shoots, which are often best fitted by moderate growth for striking. These last, too, make more bushy heads, and flower sooner than free-growing cuttings taken from more vigorous parts of a plant. The tops of the shoots should be chosen, if sufficiently ripened; but a well chosen part of the middle may succeed equally well. Prepare them by cutting the lower end transversely, close below a joint, if it be a jointed stemmed plant, or just below the insertion of a leaf, if otherwise ; trim- ming off the lower leaves close, but leaving those at the top. The cutting should not be long; two inches is enough of any hard-wooded plant. The same kind should be put in the same pot; open forties are a convenient size. When filled, the soil should be pressed in pretty tight, and the cuttings inserted nearly an inch deep with a small pointed dibber, by which the earth is pressed close to the bottom of the cutting. When the pot is filled, level and press the surface smooth,

give water immediately, plung-e the pots in the bed, and, when the moisture is exhaled from their surfaces, cover them closely with the strik- ing-glasses, to prevent the entrance of air. These glasses are necessary, because neither the cuttings nor the soil they are in should be exposed to the ordinary changes of the atmosphere. They re- quire perfect repose while they are only dependent on their own inherent energies to furnish new organs to supply the place of those from which they have been separated. The sun's heat may be serviceable, but not his direct rays ; brown paper shades should therefore be used for each glass in the middle of the day. Moisture will collect from time to time within the glasses ; in which cases they should be taken oft* for a few minutes, wiped dry, and put on again.

When cuttings thus managed have taken root, and shew by their growth that this has suffi- ciently taken place (for some will occasionally produce shoots before they have roots), they may be separated, potted, and treated as already directed for seedlings.

A late writer in the periodical publications of the Societe d' Agronomic of France reports, that he strikes cuttings of stove plants, which have very small or no visible buds, much more easily in phials of water sunk in the bark-bed than in mould. In this way he readily succeeds with Oleander, Portlandia, and Blakea.

These are the ordinary methods of propagat- ing both hot-house and green-house plants by seeds and cuttings that are of a woody nature, as well as suffruticose ; i. e. half shrubby sorts. Many are increased by suckers which rise from their roots, or by offsets which proceed from the collet of their stems. All the succulent tribe, as Aloes, Messembryanthemums, Cactus, &c. are propagated by offsets or portions of their stems. Some few grow from leaves, as Bryophyllum, Xylophylla; others by a leaf and bud only, as Hoya, &c. Tuberous or fibrous-rooted plants which are herbaceous, are increased by parting the roots ; and bulbs which do not readily pro- duce offsets may be made to do so by cutting off

the upper part of the bulb transversely, as has been already mentioned.

Such sorts as do not readily strike from cut- tings are increased by layering, grafting, or bud- ding. Layers are the points of the shoots, in- serted into pots filled with loam, and placed conveniently to receive them ; and, when layered in the usual way (that is, by tonguing or twisting a little the part placed in the soil, and there fixed), are covered with a striking-glass till they make roots, when they may be separated from the parent plants.

Grafting stove plants is commonly done by " approach." The stocks are raised in pots, for the convenience of placing them near to the shoots with which they are to be enarched. The stock and scion should be nearly of a size : and, at the most convenient point of contact, similar slices of bark and wood are cut from the opposing sides ; these, placed neatly together, are bound and clayed. The clay should be kept moist, which is easily done by bending a wrap of moss round it, and now and then watered.

A new method of grafting by approach has been lately practised, and which deserves notice. The inconvenience of placing or supporting the stocks round the tree intended to be propagated, and the fact, that this mode of grafting is success- ful only because the scion continues to receive from its parent a part of its support while uniting itself with the stock, suggested the idea that, if the scion received a supply by other means, the junction would as readily take place. Accord- ingly, a scion is separated entirely, and united by its middle to the stock in the manner of grafting by approach, and its end below the junction is inserted into a small phial of water suspended from the stock. Thus the scion receives from the water what, in the old way, it received from its parent. So readily does the union take place, that it sometimes happens (in the case of Camel- lias particularly) that the lower part of the scion appears to partake so far of the vigour" of the stock, that it also forms roots in the phial, and when separated and potted, becomes a plant itself. There is no doubt, but that many hard-wooded

plants, both in the hot-house and elsewhere, may be propagated in this manner.

Working exotic plants, whether by graft or bud, has not been practised in this country so much perhaps as it should be ; not, however, for the object of increasing the kinds, but for another purpose, viz. predisposing the plants to yield their flowers, or fruit, earlier than they otherwise do. The effect of working plants is well known. A grafted or budded tree is ren- dered less vigorous in habit, and consequently sooner arrives at that stage of its existence in which it shews flowers and fruit. A graft, at- tached to a suitable and congenial stock, has no period of youth to go through. The scion is or may be taken from the already matured branches* It is doing in the vegetable world what is seldom practicable in the moral ; viz. " putting an old head on young shoulders." This we invariably do with our fruits ; and why may it not be done with our flowering plants? A seedling Camellia, for instance, will not flower in less than three or four, whereas a graft will flower in one or two

years. If our hot-house trees were dwarfed by the same means, that is, by transferring the top- most shoots to the bottom of the stem, it would not only keep the plant in a more convenient size, but bring them sooner into flower and fruit. The splendid Bombax ceiba, Allemanda cathartica, &c, &c. are plants well worthy such trial. With hot-house fruits, such as the Mango, this treat- ment would certainly be a great improvement ; and of this fine fruit it should be known, that there are many varieties of it ditfering mate- rially in their quality ; some are inferior because of the stringiness of their pulp, whilst others are as free from that defect as are our best melting peaches ; such only should be imported for cul- tivation. The Garcinia mangostana, one of the most delicious tropical fruits, has been fruited in France. I mention this as a proof that our present expensive old-fashioned stoves may be productive of something else besides mere showy plants. The ordinary attention to a hot-house, is, as

siduity in keepin£r up the stock by propagation; a careful nicety in potting- and shifting in the proper season ; a regularity in watering when requisite ; a knowledge of the necessay tempe- rature to be kept in the house, and a steady attention to cleanliness, and habits of the plants in general.

The collection should undergo a thorough examination about the middle of April. At this time the plants are shifted into new and some- what larger pots, if necessary ; at least, they are turned out of their old pots, part of the ex- hausted soil taken away, decayed roots cut off, and then are replaced in fresh pots and compost. The heads are also pruned into form, and neatly tied up to stakes. While the plants are under this treatment, they should be guarded against cold winds while the old bark is sifted, new added, and all well mixed. The bark, when finished, should be about six inches above the kirb, and levelled to allow the plants to be set upon it till the fresh fermentation raised in the

bed has subsided, when the plants may be, at first, half plunged ; and, when the heat is still further decreased, let in as deep as their rims. Some very successful cultivators never plunge the pots, but merely set them on the bed.

When a plant is turned out of a pot, the roots are found in a matted state round the outside; the usual practice is to cut these away with a knife ; but it is only very free growing sorts that can bear such treatment; a better way is, to loosen this tissue of fibres gently, so that the new soil may get among and preserve them for immediate service.

After the plants are shifted, and again set in their places in the pit, the house should be kept rather close, moist, and at a temperature of not less than 60° Fahrenheit. The management, afterwards, consists only in duly watering, giving air, &c. till Midsummer, when fire heat is dis- continued ; the pots (if plunged) are lifted out of the bark and set on the surface for a few days pre- vious to removing them (if the summer weather be confirmed) into the green-house for a few

weeks. The tenderest, most valuable, or sickly amono^ them, however, must not be so exposed, but re-plunged in some other bed suitable for them. Those placed in the green-house should have full air in the middle of the day, but shut up on nights. In September the bark-pit in the stove must be again got ready for the plants, by add- ing fresh bark, white-washing and cleaning the walls and flues of the house, &c., and soon as this is all done, the plants may be brought back to their place, but not immediately plunged till the state of the bed is fit for them. About the middle of October fire heat is again applied; the state of the weather regulates this, as well as giving air, watering, &c., and, as the winter sets in, neither much air nor water will be required ; at least, considerable caution must be bestowed in applying these elements. About Christmas the bark-bed will require another addition of fresh bark, turning, &c. In doing this, the ut- most expedition must be used to get the plants replaced, especially if the season be severe. Should the fresh heat, thus obtained, fail before

the general potting time, the bark must be again turned, to keep up the necessary temperature.

Hot-house plants are very liable to be preyed on and disfigured by insects, especially the red acarus (not spider, as it is erroneously called), the different species of coccus, as well as the universal plague, the aphis. The dry heat of a