Athens, Georgia - Clarke County, Ga. and the City of Athens (part 1 of 3)

Preface

First. To place on record the main facts of the history, development, and present status of the county and all its interests. Second. To direct the attention of visitors and settlers to the manifest advantages which the county affords for capital and residence. Third. To indicate to other counties, by example, the means of making known in complete and permanent form their several advantages. The statements of the book have been verified from the best sources of information, and are made without exaggeration. The maps are reliable, based upon actual surveys made by J. W. Barnett, C. E., the present city engineer of Athens, Capt. W. W. Thomas, C. E., and by the author in his capacity as county surveyor.

The publication is made under the sanction of the county and city authorities, and with the valuable aid of the ofifacial'-fec^t'ds. Th-eauthof- acknowledges his indebtedness to the county and city officers for the courteous assistance rendered, and to Dr. H. C. White, Prof. David C. :^aVrow, Jr.,' and Dr. ^. C. Benedict for special contributions published under their names. \

Charles Morton Strahan Condensed Outline

Clarke county lies in the northeastern section of the State, sixty miles east of Atlanta, the State capital. The county is situated in sight of the Blue Ridge mountains, along the ridges which lead downward to the sea, and at a general elevation of 800 feet above the sea level.

Climate. - The climate is as fine for health and for agriculture as can be found anywhere. The average temperature in summer is 74° F., in winter 47° F., and the annual rainfall 54 in-ches. The county has never been visited by serious epidemics, and the general healthfulness is proverbial.

Farming. - The farming lands of the county are of strong red clay soil, arising from the disintegration of granitic and schistose rocks. Their natural fertility, coupled with open seasons and abundant rainfall, afford generous returns to the intelligent cultivator of cotton, corn, oats, barley, hay and truck garden products.

Manufacturing. - The county is remarkably adapted to manufactures. The natural water system is very extensive, and the flow of its rivers and streams is abundant at all seasons. No less than seven large water powers on the two rivers, aggregating 6,000 H. P., are found, and a large number of smaller sites on the creeks furnish powers of from 5 to 50 H. P. each. The county map will show the positions of most of these powers and how utilized at present.

Ediicatioji. - The educational interests of this county are second to none in the State. In the city of Athens, the county seat, the State University, with a large faculty and extensive equipment, finds its home. The city public school system, recognized as the most thoroughly organized and best managed system in the State, is also here. The Lucy Cobb Institute, for young ladies, the foremost seminary in the State, and the Home School, so admirably conducted by Miss Sosnowski, give every educational facility to young ladies. Throughout the county public schools are held at convenient points during five months of the year, and several private schools of good grade supplement their work.

Religion. - prevailing religious denominations are the Baptist and Methodist, but the Presbyterian, Episcopal, Christian, and Roman Catholic Churches are represented. Eighteen church structures, nine of which are in the city, with periodic services, are an index of the religious work done.

Commercial. - The. business interests of the county largely hang upon the items of cotton, manufactures, and heavy groceries. The receipts of cotton im Athens have reached 90,000 bales, representing a money value of ^3,500,000'. The aggregate business of the community is close to 1^13,000,000 per year. Strong houses in cotton, manufactures, groceries, dry goods, crockery, hardware, jewelry and clothing, give variety and vigor to the business life. Athens has the reputation of being a good market in which both to buy and sell.

Rai/roads. - The concentration of four railroad lines at Athens affords ready transportation, both to and from all points in the country. These roads, by their connections, give through rates from the North and East by two competing lines, from the West by two also; from the South by one, and from the southeastern seaboard by three routes. Few points in the county are more than five miles from some railroad station.

Government. - The county and city throughout their history have been favored with conservative management - in the hands of the white people. The county has a bonded debt of $39,500, and the annual State and county taxes are .00775 cents on the dollar. City property is subject to an additional tax of .0110 cents on the dollar, The city bonded debt is $225,000. The property return for taxation amounts to $7,500,000, of which $6,500,000 is in the city of Athens. The county is governed by an ordinary and grand jury; the city, by mayor and council of eight members.

Population. - The population of the county, as given by the nth census, shows the following figures : White, 7,072; colored, 8,114; total, 15,186 These are believed to be too low by 10 per cent., particularly as to white population. The two races live in harmony and obey the law. The white population of the county is unusually intelligent, conservative, progressive, and generous of welcome to those who cast their lots in this county. The negroes are peaceable and well disposed, and form the larger portion of the labor to be had in this section.

The city has electric lights, electric street cars, gas, brick sidewalks, public schools, a paid fire department with electric fire alarm, free postal delivery, and is now building a splendid system of waterworks to furnish power as well as domestic and sanitary supply. In the last ten years the city valuation has increased from $3,400,000 to $6,400,000. Sewers have been built, and bonds are now on hand for paving the city streets with macadam and belgian blocks. An excellent telegraph and telephone service is supplied throughout the city. The city supports an excellent daily and weekly newspaper, TJie Athens Bannet, byname.

Historical. - That portion of the State of Georgia which now bears the name of Clarke county was originally a part of the county of Franklin until after the revolutionary war. In 1784, by act of the Legislature, the county of Jackson was cut off from Franklin, thereby including the territory which was afterwards allotted in 1801, by a similar legislative act, to the county of Clarke. There is a spot near the northern boun^ dary of the present county, marked by the remains of old chimnies, as the site of an Ind'an trading station, named Clarkesborough. This town was named in honor of General Elijah Clarke, of revolutionary fame, and suggested, no doubt, the name for the new county cut off in 1801. As laid down by the act of the Legislature at that time, the boundary of Clarke county began on the Appalachee river at the mouth of Marbury creek, thence ran in a straight line to Easeley's mill on Middle Oconee river ; thence in a direct line to where Brush creek, now Beaver Dam creek, crosses the Oglethorpe ci-unty line. These two lines were approximately east in direction and constituted the northern boundary. From the corner on Brush creek the line ran in a general southerly direction with the county of -Oglethorpe until the Oconee river was reached, thence westerly along the Greene county line to the Appalachee river, and thence up the said river in a general northwestern direction to the beginning corner. The area included -was about 25c square miles, and the population scarcely more than a few hundred white settlers The Indians still roamed over this area, and property and life were held at the owner's risk. In the same year, Governor John Milledge, by a gift of 633 acres of land near the center of the northern half of the county, secured the location upon it of the Sta'e University, known as Franklin College, and induced Josiah Meigs, LL. D., a professor in Yale College, to assume the presidency and open the college. No more heroic educator can be found in the annals of this country than Dr. Meigs. Leaving a safe abode and comfortable support, he came to Georgia, settled in a wilderness, and there in a log house, within hearing of the war whoop of the Cherokee Indians, taught and graduated the first class of the University in 1804.

At the time he settled here there was. but one other house, and the chief attraction was the beautiful hill country and a large spring of beautiful freestone water, which, for many years, was used as the town spring, but is now flowing in underground pipes beneath the sidetrack that runs back of the Reaves cotton warehouse. The college grounds covered the adjoining hill top on which the University Campus now stands. It was covered with magnificent oaks and hickories, many of which still beautify the grounds In the course of a few years a number of houses were built> and in 1806 a town charter was obtained and the name of Athens chosen as classical and appropriate to the college community. From this small beginning, the town has become a citv witl: 10,000 in-

When Athens became a town in 1806 it was the most northern settlement in the State, and nearest to the borders of the Indian reservation. The first store was opened by Stevens Thomas, and the second by Elizur Newton. The descendants of these men still occupy prominent positions in the county.

In 1802 the county government was duly established and a court house built at a point seven miles southwest of Athens in the town of Watkinsville, now the county seat of Oconee county.

But few events of interest mark the early history of Clarke county beyond the gradual displacement of the Indians, the inflow of white settlers from adjoining counties and states, and the continued growth of Franklin College. As steps in the county development may be noted, the acts for the better regulation of the town of Athens in 1815 and 1831; some attempt at general education under the academy system and poor school fund begun in 1821 ; the establishment of an asylum for the invalid poor by the Superior Court in 1834; the incorporation of the Presbyterian and Methodist Churches in 1828, of Mars Hill Baptist Church in 1834, of Emanuel Episcopal Church in 1843, under the pastorate of Rev. Wm. Stevens, afterwards the distinguished Episcopal !t5ishopof Pennsylvania; the extension of the limits of Athens in 1840, and the enlargement of its charter in 1847; the establishment of the first volunteer fire company in 1850 as the forerunner of a volunteer system, whose efficiency and bravery was for many years a noted page in the current history of Athens ; the organization of the Independent Blues as the first volunteer military company in 1843 ; and the disastrous fire an Watkinsville in 1864, by which the court house and many valuable records of the county were destroyed.

In the course of time the town of Athens out-stripped in growth and importance its rival of Watkinsville. The presence of the University was a powerful factor, which not only brought a student population, but proved sufficient to attract many of the most cultured and well-to-do people of the State.

The political organization of the University's governing board annually brought a large array of prominent people to witness the closing exercises of the college, and to hobnob over the political slates for coming campaigns.

Ultimately a strong sentiment was developed to move the county seat from Watkinsville to Athens. The strength of this sentiment and the equal strength of the opposition at Watkinsville made it necessary to divide the county m order that peace and amity might once more reign.

This was done by act of Legislature in 1875, just three years after Athens had been granted a charter which transformed it from a town to city. The southern half of the county was given a separate government, under the name of Oconee county, and took away from Clarke county rather more than half of its previous area. The division leaves Clarke county one of the smallest coun ties in the State in point of size, with an area of seventy-four thousand and twelve acres, equivalent to one hundred and fifteen and six-tenths square miles.- The boundaries of this territory are giverL in subsequent pages. Titles to the land run directly back to State grants made at the time when this section was wild lands. It is a fact of some interest that

And The City Of Athens

The part which Clarke county played in the war between the States is one of which she may well be proud. The names of her sons were high in both cabinet and field, and their unflinching courage is embalmed in the blood which they so freely shed. It is the part of others to pay them the full tribute of their worth ; these pages must be content to record them as true, honorable, conscientious and devoted patriots. Clarke county was severely crushed by the war ; most of her best men dead, the negroes all made free, and Utile beside the bare lands left. Notwithstanding these conditions, the last twenty years have in creased the population of the present county from 7,641 to 16,000, and her taxable property from two to seven and onehalf millions.

In the past Clarke county has furnished the State and nation with a long list of distinguished citizens, and to-day she yields to none a superiority in the intelligence, the integrity, the energy, and the patriotism of her people.

Geographical. - The geography of Clarke county is shown in detail on the map published herewith. It is necessary simply to call attention to the main features of that map. The surrounding counties, taken in order to the right from the north, are Jackson, Madison, Oglethorpe and Oconee. The various acts of the Legislature, by virtue of which certain farms have been changed back and forth from Clarke to the adjacent counties, previous to the Constitution of 1877, will account for the irregularity of outline at several points of the northern boundary.

The county is located in that section of the State known as Northeast Georgia, and in the eastern borders of the first Indian reservation. One of the present corners is known as Cherokee corner, and was the southeastern corner of the Indian reserves.

The general water systems, as determined by the foot hills of the moun tains, has a southeasterly trend. The two principal rivers are the forks of the Oconee river, which meet in the Southern part of the county. The Aneroid barometer was used to obtain relative elevations above the sea levels, and these readings are recorded in clear type on the stream crossings and ridges. They show that the county is a succession of high ridges with broad backs, and whose sides descend rapidly as the streams are reached. The original forest is oak and hickory mixed with pine ; the soil is of strong red clay type, arising from the disentegration of metamorphic rocks, and the general appearance of the county has all the characteristics of that belt of country lying forty miles from the Blue Ridge range in Virginia and the Carolinas.

Under the heading of Water System, Militia Districts and Geology, the reader may gather a detailed picture of the topography and resources of this county.

Boundaries. - The boundaries of Clark(i county, as shown on the present map, are based upon the recognized limits in vogue amongst the residents along the county line. No official records are extant defining the county lines with greater exactitude than the following description :

The northwest corner of the county is in a field, about three hundred yards northeast of Thompson's mill, on Little Bear creek, being the point where the three counties of Clarke, Oconee and Jackson run together. This corner is not definitely marked by any monument. The line between Jackson and Clarke runs from this corner in a straight line to a point on the Middle Oconee river known in old descriptions as Easeley's mill, and by the present generation as the old Patman mill place. Thence up the west side of the Middle Oconee river about one mile and a quarter to the Tallasee bridge. The line crosses the river on this bridge, and follows the public road, leaving Fowler's mill and Prospect church to the' left, to a large black gum tree on the eastern side of the road. From thence the line runs to an oak tree on the west side of the Nowhere road, and about one-fourth of a mile north of the dwelling of B. J. Porterfield, being the corner between Clarke, Jackson and Madison counties. This line crosses the Jefferson road at a small bridge one-half mile from Gum Spring, crosses the Cub creek road at an old dead tree, about 200 yards south of George Walton's dwelling, crosses the Harmony Grove road dt a large white oak tree near Black's Station on the Northeastern Railroad, and when it strikes the lands of T. F. Hudson, follows around the land lines of said property as shown on the county map, and thence to the oak corner aforesaid. The line between Clarke and Madison runs in a straight line, as shown on the map, until it reaches the northeastern corner of the county, on the lands of Lemuel J. Edwards, where the county line is very irregular, bending first with the public road and afterwards with the land lines of Edwards' farm. The author was unable to locate a similar irregularity said to exist on the property of Richard Saulter, where the Danielsville road crosses into Madison county. The explanation of these irregularities is found in the former practice of the State Legislature, which permitted a farmer whose land lay on the countv lines to change, by special act, the county in which he lived, upon any caprice. The law now prevents such vacillation. A striking result of the old practice is seen at the northeast corner of the county, where the triangle, just outside of Clarke, belonging to Madison county, is entirely disconnected from Madison by territory of Clarke and Oglethorpe counties.

The line between Clarke and Oglethorpe leaves Edwards' land as shown, striking the Beaver dam road near the residence of Henry Atkisson, thence following along that road to a stone monu" ment where the fork to Winterville leads off to the left. From this point the present county surveyor of Clarke and Prof. T. B. Moss, on the part of Oglethorpe county, have under due authority surveyed and marked with granite corners, properly lettered, the dividmg line between Oglethorpe and Clarke to the chestnut corner at Big Creek Church. The maps of the survey are placed in the county court house in Athens, and show the following bearings and distances : S. 0° 50' E., 7,100 feet, passing through the town of Winterville to the west of Pittard's store to a stone corner on the public road, thence S. io^° E., 4,086 feet to a stone corner at the foot of the old black gum corner, thence S. 2)8° E. 17,300 feet to a stone corner in field 1,500 feet north of Lexington road and near the Thomas spring ; thence S- 25§^° W. 23,170 feet to the old chestnut corner now marked by granite post and being the corner between Clarke, Oglethorpe and Oconee counties. The line between Clarke and Oconee counties from this point lollows the public road to the middle of Barnett's bridge; thence up the Oconee river following the west- the grand jury, which meets twice each ern fork to the mouth of Paper Mill year, during the sessions of the Superior creek; thence up said creek to the Court in April and October, bridge on the public road; thence fol- The Ordinary has supervision and conlowing McNutt's creek to a large stone trol over all county property, over highon the east side of the Monroe public ways, bridges and ferries, over the counroad, a point formerly known as the site ty poor house and convicts, over county of Barnard's mill, and thence in a health regulations, police, peddling and straight line to the beginning corner the like, and a judicial capacity over the near Thompson's mill. The latter part legal procedure in winding up estates of the line crosses the Lawrenceville and in cases of insanity. The executive road about 300 feet east of Jackson's acts of the Ordinary are all subject to store. This description gives the ac- revision and endorsement by the grand cepted limits of the county. That many jury.

here given will serve as a good basis to call attention to the fact that presentupon which future surveys may be ments to the grand jury are in general these the County Ordinary is the most county, whose mental and moral qualifiimportant officer, having in charge the cation and material interests are such as an unwritten law that any large expenditures for the good of the county must first receive the sanction of the grand jury. The grand jury list in this county is passed upon by six jury commissioners, and numbers one hundred and five names.

Clarke county belongs to the Western Judicial Circuit, over which Judge N. L. Hutchms, of Lawrenceville, has presided during the past ten years with distinguished ability and unquestioned fairness.

The eight militia districts in the county have each a Justice of the Peace, before whom lawbreakers are brought in criminal cases, and in civil cases where

The Ordinary, Tax Receiver, Tax Co - lector and Treasurer, under ihe law, are constituted a board to fix the rate of county taxation. They meet early in September and determine the percentage which will raise a sum sufficient to defray the probable county expenditures.

Tiie city of Athens has instituted under its charter a City Court, with certain county jurisdiction, bci ore which a large class of offenders may he brought to trial.

Axd The City Of Athens

the county reach a large figure, and a comparison reaching back for the past decade shows rapid growth. The factors which have been at work to produce these results have been many. Notably, the advent of two new lines of railroads, the presence and success of several large cotton mills, the progressive energy of the merchants and farmers of the county and the splendid educational facilities which are offered through the University of Georgia, the Lucy Cobb Institute, and the Athens Public School system. The actual fiffures in the table below speak for themselves. A careful perusal of them will show the solid financial basis upon which the county stands, the profits which have accrued to investors, and the bright future in store for the present inhabitants and those who may locate here.

The variations in the district returns are largely due to the fact that the same property is often returned in different districts from year to year. Much of the land of the county is owned in the city and there returned.

Clarke Covnty, Georgia

Taxes. - The vital question of taxation in this county has always been managed with conservatism and equity. The state also has always been economical ; so that together the rate for state and county purposes is y% mills on the dollar, $775 on $1,003.00. Of this $4.10 on each $1,00000 goes to the state treasurer and $3.65 is used for county purposes.

100% None of the adjoining counties make so small a levy. Property is returned for taxation based on the holdings on April first of each year. Lands are given in at a figure which is about threefourths of the real value to the owner. Returns are made under oath to the tax receiver on or before the ist day of July, and are due to the county tax collector on or before December 20th.

The bonded debt of the county is $39>500-00j largely incurred in building the county court house. The county owns the court house property, the pauper farm and buildings, six good wooden bridges over the Oconee river.

four bridges over the Middle Oconee and a sixth-sevenths interest in the Tallasee bridge, the Paper Mill bridge, Simonton bridge and Baraett's bridge. The total valuation of county property may be placed at $66,100.

Railroads. - Four railroads traverse the county, centering in Athens, and affording every advantage of local and distant transportation. Of these the Georgia R. R. was the first to reach the county in 1846, followed by the Northeastern R. R. in 1876, the Macon and Northern R. R. in 1887, and the Georgia, Carolina and Northern R. R. in 1891.

Roads. - The road system of the county is thoroughly developed. Main lines of road traverse the county in every direction from Athens, leading to important trade centers in adjoining counties, and placing the lands of the county in easy reach of the markets.

The county maps will show the exact position and distances along these roads. The roads are worked under the " personal service" system, and have a total length of 95 miles measured from the county courthouse.

population of the county is in great part congregated at a comparatively few points. The following table will sho\v these points and inhabitants at each - approximately :

These figures are in excess of the census returns for 1890, but are believed to be a fairer and more complete record of the county population.

By Samuel C. Benedict, M.D.

That Clarke county, Ga., is a very healthy county it is hardly necessary to argue, for its altitude, average temperature, humidity, rainfall, amount of cloudiness, and its drainage, coupled with the fact that it lies in the Piedmont escarpment and among the lesser foothills of the southern slope of the Blue Ridge mountains, is sufficient evidence to the scientific mquirer that it must be a healthy district. Its climate compares favorably in respect to the above conditions with well recognized health resorts, as tables herewith will show.

The county is traversed by numerous streams, all flowing in a southernly and southeasterly directions - streams sufficiently large to be called rivers. Its surface is rolling in almost its entire extent, and in most portions very hilly, furnishing thereby one of the chief causes of its healthfulness - natural drainage. These streams are not sluggish, slowly moving waters, such as would be found in level countries ; are not bordered by low, level banks which, in freshets, would allow of easy and farreaching overflows, but rapid, and with sufficiently elevated banks to carry off quickly the surplus of water from heavy rains. As a result of this condition the county is remarkably free from swamps, lagoons or long standing water, and, notwithstanding the statements of some of the laity and a few physicians, malarial diseases, especially chills and fever, are almost unknown.

The average temperature of Clarke county can best be determined by a division of the year into months or seasons, and taking this method of arriving at its statistics, the writer has availed himself in the following statements of the records kept at the Signal Service Station at the University of Georgia, at Athens, the county seat. We find that for the months of January, February and March the average daily temperature to be 42° F. For April, May and June 72°; for July, August and Septembe 74°, and for October, November and December 52° F. The mean of the highest temperatures for the first three months of the year is 66°, for the succeeding three months ending June 30, ^6°; for July, August and September, 91°; and for the three last months ending December 31, 71° F. The mean of the niiniminn temperatures for the same months is respectively 9, 36, 51 and 22 degrees Fahrenheit. The observations were recorded for the seven years past, 1885-1892.

The temperature of a place is proba bly the most important of all the factors in determining the value of a place as a health resort, or as a place for healthy habitation, and especially is this true in respect to the utmost limits of heat and cold, the sudden changes of temperature to which a place may be subject and the relative temperature between day and night. In Clarke county the maximum summer temperature is seldom above

94°, the average maximum being about 90°, while the average minimum temperature is about 50°, this latter representing the night temperature approximately. With the exception of possibly two weeks in July, the heat of the day passes into cool nights, so that some form of covering is necessary for comfortable sleeping.

Athens, the months of greatest humidity are January, August and September, and the lowest May, June and November, the difference, however, being very slight, with yy per cent, for maximum and 61 per cent, for minimum.

The direction and velocity of its winds influence favorably or unfavorably the healthfulness of a climate. The prevailing winds here for January, April and October are westerly, with an average important. The greater the humidity the less the evaporating power of the atmosphere and the more sultry and close its feeling to the individual.

The amount of sunshine, and frequency and velocity of winds determine the rapidity of evaporation. Taking, as is the custom, ioo as the standard for saturation of the amosphere by moisture, it is found that for the vicinity of for a certain class of invalids it is more velocity of 5 to lo miles per hour, and accompanied by clear, cool and crisp weather. For the months of February, March, June, July, September and November the prevailing winds are easternly, with a velocity of 5 to 15 miles, bringing in February and March cool rains, and in the other months refreshing short rains. The prevailing winds for August and December are southernly and the latter month, December, is often its entire length balmy and clear, perfect Indian summer weather, showing by accurate tracings, taken for tne past seven years, an average of but nine cloudy and four rainy days.

Rainfall. - The total amount of rainfall is of less importance, in point of health, than its distribution. As a general rule, it will be found that a place showing a very slight rainfall will possess a dry atmosphere, but for the invalid the distribution is of much greater moment than the amount.

In Clarke county, owing to the nature of its soil, its natural drainage, its steady, moderate and breezy winds and its average temperature, even a long rain is soon followed by dryness of both soil and atmosphere, making it a climate where the period of confinement indoors is very short.

The average rainfall for New York City is, in inches, for spring lo, summer 12, autumn lo, and winter 9. For the whole year 42 inches. This includes melted snow.

The distribution for the past seven years shows for January, March, May, June, July and August 5 mches, 4.8 inches for September, 3 inches each for November, December and October, and

2 inches for May. February and March are the only months in which, from rain, the weather is disagreeable, but usually in February the spring opens up, as shown by early flowers and peach blossoms and the beginning of early gardening.

This condition is of importance not only as effecting the rapidity of evaporation, but also directly having an influence upon the health of its inhabitants by determining the amount of sunshine and warmth and consequently the time which can be spent out of doors.

For New York City the average clear days for the same divisions per month, are 7, 8, 8.5 and 8 respectively, and for Charleston, S, C, 11, 11, 10 and 12 clear days respectively. The annexed tables will, by comparison, show the climatic conditions of Aiken, S. C, Asheville, N. C, Augusta and Thomasville, Ga., and Athens, Ga. Atlanta and Marietta, Ga., have about the same climate as Athens. The altitude of Athens is 750 feet.

Clarke county has no diseases peculiar to itself - there are no diseases endemic here. It has a climate peculiarly suited to be beneficial and curative to those suffering from diseases of the nose, throat and lungs, as well as for rheumatics. Diphtheria is practically unknown, never as an epidemic, a few isolated cases occasionally occurring, but in some of those reported there is probably an error in diagnosis. In the city of Athens a half dozen cases have not been known in twice as many years. Chills and fever cases are almost as rarely found, never as affecting a whole neighborhood and usually then confined to some spot subject to rising and falling daily water, as a mill-pond, an artificial rather than a natural cause. The disease is so rare ni Athens that the statement that all cases of malarial disturbance found here are from an infection outside the city and county limits would not be far from the truth. Pneumonias are very rarely seen. Consumption, as developed from climatic conditions is almost never known, acquired consumption especially, and so unfavorable is the climate for its development that persons with this disease find here not only relief from progressive changes but an entire arrest of the disease.

Rheumatisms, especially acute inflammatory, are seld m met with, this disease being almost as great a rarity as diphtheria or intermittent fever. Bright's disease, diabetes and other affections of the kidneys are so rare that in many years' experience many physicians of the county have never seen a case. Indeed such is the healthfulness of the inhabitants of Athens and its vicinity as to diseases the result of climate, that insurance companies find it a profitable field to work, a large proportion of its people carrying first-class policies, and the mortality of said policy holders is very low.

Statistics of its diseases are not generally kept by the physicians of the county, and therefore it is impossible to furnish any. A good way to judge of the healthfulness of a place is by the number of its resident practicing physicians. The proportion to population of physicians in the United States is i to 350. In Athens, with a population of 12,000, there are but 12 practicing physicians, a ratio of i to 1,000, and in the county the proportion is still less.

The writer has traveled or resided in most of the states and territories of the United States, and it is his opinion, formed after a residence of over ten years here, that for delightful climate and healthy inhabitants, and freedom from endemic or epidemic diseases, Clarke county especially, of all the counties of Northeast Georgia noted for its delightful climate, has no superior. It would be a most excellent place for the establishment of a summer and winter hotel for invalids and travelers, or for a. sanitarium.

Character Of The Soil And Its Agricultural Value

The geology of Clarke county is comparatively simple. The entire county lies within what is known as the "metamorphic" region, a formation which extends over a large part of the northern portion of Georgia. In fact, if a line be drawn approximately straight across the State in a southwesternly direction, from Augusta, on the Savannah river, to Columbus on the Chattahoochee, all of the State north of this line is within the "metamorphic," excepting the ten counties comprising the extremiC northwestern corner. Clarke county is, therefore, somewhat east of the center of this great formation. This metamorphic region is the mountainous or hilly portion of Georgia ; mountain-making and the metamorphism of rocks being due to the same general causes. Clarke county, however, lies rather upon the slopes and among the foot-hills of the true mountain range than within the range itself. The country is, therefore, broken and hilly but not truly mountainous. Ranges of mountains of considerable altitude lie 50 or 60 miles to the northward, and are distinctly visible from any of the higher hills of the county in clear weather. The climate of the county (see page 17) is, therefore, that of the great Piedmont ("foot of the mountain") region, being neither enervating, like that of many of the "lowland" counties to the south, jior rigorous like that of some of the true mountain counties to the north. For healthfulness and comfort, the climate is most excellent, and it is admirably adapted to a great variety of agricultural and horticultural products.

The rocks of the metamorphic formation vary som.ewhat in different localities, but they are generally hard, compact and silicious, the great bulk of the rock being granite, or nearly approaching granite in composition and character. The rock underlying Clarke county is quite uniformly agneissoid granite. At occasional points the rock is very like true granite, and is suitable for building and road-bed purposes. No quarries, however, have as yet been opened in the county, although immediately beyond the county line, in Oglethorpe county, workable granite of the very finest quality is somewhat extensively quarried.

In common with the greater part of the metamorphic formation of this region, the rock of the county is seamed with occasional veins of gold-bearing quartz. Gold in paying quantities has been washed from the bed of a small stream (Tanyard branch) flowing through a portion of the city of Athens, and probably in other parts of the county. No very rich veins or stream deposits have been found in the county, however, and it is most probable that none exist. The rich veins and deposits found in the counties to the north occur generally

And The City Of Atiiexs

Whilst the rock is comparatively uniform in general character, and is all, comparatively speaking, hard and compact, it is not uniform in hardness and compactness. As a consequence, erosion has carved the surface of the county into numberless water-worn hills and valleys, giving it a "rolling" character. As a further consequence, the streams, (of which there are a great number), have uneven and somewhat precipitous channels and move with rapidly changing velocities. These conditions give rise to valuable "water powers," many of which are already applied to industrial uses. (See page 31.) Another consequence of the lack of uniformity in the hardness and compactness of the rock is that it has been "weathered" to a great and unusual depth. (The same is true of many contiguous counties.) Excepting on the summits of the sleeper hills, from which the weathered rock has been washed away as rapidly as formed, the effects of the weathering are noticeable to depths of from 20 to 40 feet. Wells in the county are generally sunk to these depths before hard rock is encountered. "Weathering" is the "breaking down, pulverization and decomposition of rocks and minerals by natural processes ; that is, by the action of water, air, rain, wind, frost and such like natural agencies in operation constantly on the earth's surface." The "weathering" of rocks results in the formation of soil. The soil of the county is, therefore, naturally very deep. Where it is protected from washing the depth to which it may be cultivated for farming purposes is practically unlimited.

The principal minerals of which the granitic rock of the county is composed are quartz, feldspar and mica. True granite is a uniform, homogeneous mixture of these three minerals, each finely grained, compacted into a hard, uniform rock. Gneissoid granite contains the same three minerals, but it is not homogeneous in character, the minerals are coarsely grained and the rock is not so hard or compact as true granite. In true srranite it is sometimes difficult to diso tinguish the minerals from each other by the unaided eye, but in the gneisses the large, coarse masses of each are generally easily distinguishable. In addition to quartz, feldspar and mica, other minerals in smaller quantities are sometimes among the components of the rock, such as hornblende, tourmaline, small veins of iron pyrites, ("fool's gold"), etc., some of which are often prominently noticeable when the rock is freshly broken. Others, such as carbonate of lime, phosphate of lime, sulphate of lime, etc., occur in much smaller quantities, especially mixed through the soil formed of the rock when weathered. It is this heterogeneous character and coarse structure of the gneissoid rock that permits it to be weathered to such great depths.

The first effect of weathering is to crumble the rock. The minerals are then separated and sorted by the action of water. The Cjuartz crumbles into sand, and the mica into small, fine, glistening plates or scales. These are frequently noticeable in the dust by the roadside or in the beds and along the sides of small streams. Quartz simply forms sand ; it cannot be further decom- posed. The feldspar and mica (and other similar minerals) are, however, not only crumbled into fine particles but are acttually decomposed. Thus, feldspar, which is composed chiefly of silica (silicic acid), alumina and potash, with small quantities of lime, soda, iron and other ingredients, decomposes under the action of weathering and produces sand (silica), clay (silicate of alumina and

Clarke county is, therefore, essentially a clay soil. As the quantity of iron in the feldspar, etc., is considerable, the oxide of iron formed during weathering gives the soil generally a decided red color. The sorting action of rain water modifies to some extent the natural character of the soil in many places. Clay is lighter and finer than sand and is, therefore, more easily washed away.

water) and silicate of potash principally, with small quantities of oxide of iron, lime and soda compounds, etc. Mica, which has a somewhat similar composition, produces, on weathering, similar results. The principal ingredients of the soil formed by the weathering of a gneissoid granite are, therefore, sand and clay ; and as the quantity of clay is large, such soils are usually clay soils. What may be called the natural soil of

The larger streams of the county are therefore almost constantly more or less muddy from the quantity of fine clay which they carry, and the smaller streams are frequently so. This excessive washing away of the clay as compared with the sand results in the production of sandy soil. This is especially the case upon the tops and sides of the steeper hills and in "bottoms" where the velocity of a swiftly running stream is lands the proportion of sand mixed with calculated from this analysis is as folthe clay is so great that they are rarely lows : One cubic foot of the soil weighed

The chemical composition of the soil Amounts (in pounds) of different submay be illustrated by an analysis of a stances used and required by plants in sample of the red clay land of the Uni- producing certain crops, including the versify farm. This farm is situated on roots, stem, leaves, fruit, grain, seed, a ridge-top, and the soil is less fertile etc., and all parts of the plant, reprethan the average soil of the county of senting the total demand made by the similar character. The sample repre- crop upon the soil.

Comparing the requirements of the crops with the actual capabilities of the soil, as indicated by the analysis, it is evident that, taken only to the depth of 12 inches, the ordinary soil of the county is abundantly provided with the mineral food necessary to produce luxuriant crops for many years without artificial fertilization. When it is remembered that the sub-soil, down to the lowest depth that can possibly be reached by any plow, contains even larger quantities of plant food than are found in the surface soil, it is apparent that it is possible to maintain the natural fertility of the soil practically indefinitely. It is true that the fertility of a soil is mainly dependent upon the solubility or "availability" of the mineral plant food which it contains. In no soils may this availability be so readily or easily secured by judicious care of the land, green manuring, rotation of crops and other economic practices of good husbandry, as in soils of the character found in this county, the physical characteristics of which have been described, and which enable them to retain heat, air, moisture and the products of decay of organic matter, the natural agencies by which such availability is secured.

The general chemical character of the soil and its capacity to furnish mineral plant food may also be estimated from the composition of the minerals forming the rocks from which the soil was produced. All the minerals (excepting quartz) of the gneissoid granite underlying the soil of the county are rich in potash, lime and magnesia, and contain the other necessary ingredients of plant food in good proportions. The soil formed by the weathering of such minerals is, therefore, necessarily a strong soil ; that is, it contains plant food in abundance, its natural productive capacity is very great, and it responds readily to judicious tillage.

The timber of the county is mainly hard of the natural waters is absolute. The woods - oak, hickory, dogwood, etc. - -a extreme purity and the magnificent class of vegetation that demands from quality of the drinking waters of the the soil much the same kind and amounts region in which the county lies constiof mineral food as are required by ordi- tute one of its chief claims to healthnary cultivated crops. fulness.

It may be safely said, therefore, that It has been previously noted that the the general character of the soil of the oxide of iron which gives the red color county is such as to yield to the hus- to the soil is sometimes washed out of bandman full and rich returns for the the soil (leaving " grey " land) by the labor of intelligent cultivation. As percolating water when the quantity of " proof of the pudding " attention is organic (vegetable) matter upon or in called to the agricultural statistics of the the soil is large. This oxide of iron recounty given elsewhere, showing what mains in solution until the water issues the soil has actually been made to pro- freely into the air. Iron, or " chalybeduce by careful culture. ate" springs are, therefore, not infre-

Clarke county is situated about forty miles south of what is known as the Chattahoochee ridge, which separates, the cotton producing section of the State from those portions where the summer season is too short to permit of its successful cultivation.

We are very advantageously situated, agriculturally, being in a climate where cotton can be successfully grown, and yet being sufficiently far north to make the cultivation of wheat profitable.

The climate of the more southern portion of the State is as suitable for the cultivation of cotton, corn and oats as is our own, but in that section wheat cannot be successfull raised. We cannot grow sugar cane in Clarke, at least not as a profitable crop, but we have as a substitute sorghum from which much syrup is made every year.

in this county who raise hay to the exclusion of cotton. Bermuda grass, which was once regarded as the farmer's curse, is considered now as of great value on account of the quantity of hay it produces and the excellent pasturage it affords, This grass, is killed only by intense cold, so that, when once a field is set in berniuda grass, very little expense is incurred in making hay from it.

As to fruit, we have an abundance of figs, from which may be inferred that we have no very severe cold, and peaches, apples, pears and grapes thrive with us. There are many scuppernong vines in and around Athens which are of great size and which produce bushels of fruit.

And The City Of Athexs

During my boyhood it was the custom on my father's plantation, in the vicinity of Athens, to feed the negroes with provisions grown on the place, and to clothe them with cloth woven at home from cotton and wool raised there

The farmer who buys only sugar and coffee of his food, and wears clothes of cloth manufactured in his own county, if not on his farm, is still to be found with us.

" The lands may be classed as red clays, gray sandy, mulatto, and alluvial bottom soils. The red clay lands cover about 65 per cent, of the county area, and extend in two belts across the county, each about 6 miles wide. The dark red soil has a depth of about 18 inches, with a tough red clay sub -soil.

The soil is fine grained and compact, retaining moisture for a long time, hav. ing little sand in its composition. It is very durable, resisting both weathering influence and the taking up of its riches by the plants, and produces crops for a number of years with very little decrease in yield.

Its tree growth consists of red, black, Spanish, and white oaks, chestnut, pine hickory, dogwood and some walnut. The soil is cold and naturally well drained, and is easy to till in wet seasons.

Fresh lands produce from 900 to 1,000 pounds of seed cotton, and this yield continues for a number of years without any apparent diminution. The lands are not troubled so much by weeds or by crab-grass. They have a tendency to wash, and on steep hillsides are much injured. The valleys are also injured by the washings. Hillside ditching and terracing are practiced with good success in checking the damage.

Gray sandy lands, which form a belt three miles wide in the middle of the county, comprise nearly 30 per cent, of its lands. The soil is gray and more or less sandy, 16 inches deep, and underlaid by a yellowish or reddish clay much less tough than the red lands and much less retentive of moisture. It is not as durable as the red lands, is generous in giving up its plant food, and is more readily washed off by rains. It also decreases in productiveness more readily. The growth is wl?ite, red, Spanish and post oak, hickory, pine and chestnut, this last being more abundant than on red lands. Whenever it is possible farmers use chestnut rails for fencing purposes, and gray lands are often marked by chestnut fences. These lands are best adapted to cotton and oats, 75 per cent, of the former being planted. The red land is better for corn, clover and wheat, though cotton forms 60 per cent, of the crops. The yield on " fresh gray land " is rom 1,000 to 1,200 pounds of seed cotton per acre. While the soil is not so durable as the red land, it recuperates more readily and produces very well for a few years after a rest.

The bottom lands, comprising 5 per cent, of the land of the county, are variable in width, and are never very wide. The growth is birch, hickory, pine, oak, walnut, and frequently considerable white oak. The soil is a dark alluvial loam, sometimes underlaid by a tough pipe clay, white or bluish in color. The land is best adapted to corn, 10 per cent, only of cotton being planted. Cocklebur and rag-weed are the most troublesome."

Since the census report was prepared one notable change has taken place in the farming in Clarke county, which" is the cultivation of Bermuda grass on many of the bottoms, which were then planted in corn, a change which has been of the greatest benefit to the farmer.

of the successful farmers of Clarke county, has given me a statement of the crops raised by himself and tenants during 1892. His tenants are negroes, who with their families and some help hired, cultivated their farms. Mr. Comer is a very careful and skillful farmer, but the results show what can be accomplished.

The conclusion which naturally follows from this brief statement seems to be that our county can hardly be equalled for diversity of products and profitable farming under proper management.

Note. - Several years ago aa agricultural club existed in Athens, which offered a premium for the best acre of wheat. Several of the contestants raised over 50 bushels, and the prize was awarded to Dr. James S. Hamilton, who grew, I think, 54 bushels on an acre. This is given as indicating what can be raised by proper cultivation.

The table on page 30 illustrates one of the most common methods of farming in this county and the surrounding country, so common, indeed, that it may be called the method in which our lands are farmed.

The land is owned in large bodies, either by those who inherited plantations, or by the accumulations of successful businessmen, and is rented out in small farms to tenants.

Sometimes a portion of the crop grown, usually one-fourth, is paid for the use of land, but ordinarily the contract is for "standing rent." By "standing rent " is meant that a fixed amount of lint cotton, or occasionally of money, is to be paid for the use of land. The amount varies from 800 to 1,200 pounds of lint cotton for each one-horse farm. Sometimes the landlord furnishes the mule and includes his hire in the rent. Mr. Comer does this, but the tenant feeds the mule.

Another very common contract is what is called the " half and half contract." The laborer furnishes the human labor, usually himself and family; and the landlord furnishes the mule and land and feeds the mule. The laborer furnishes his hoes, etc., and the landlord the plows. Fertilizers, blacksmith bills and other expenses are paid for half and half. The crop is equally divided between the landlord and his tenant.

Water System

The extent, distribution and commercial value of the water system of Clarke county justify its discussion under a special article. The article should be read with the county map before the eye, and with a clear remembrance of the large and evenly distributed rainfall with which this section is favored.

The two forks of the Oconee river which run together on the county line are the most important members of the water system, but along the several creeks which run into the rivers a number of valuable powers exist, some utilized and some not. It will be noted that secondary streams of the county are supplied by a great number of branches which take their rise in a still larger number of bold springs. The general trend of the streams is toward the south-east, and with scarcely an exception the river and creek valleys are very narrow and bordered on each side by high hills. The underlying rocks in which these channels have been cut belong to the earliest geological eras, technically called metamorphic rock, which abounds in fissures into which a large per centage of the rainfall is gathered. This underground supply not only sustains the springs and branches, but makes it possible to secure good water at shallow depths. The surface wells of the county range from 25 to 50 feet in depth. The nature of the underlying rock, of course, renders impossible the boring of artesian wells, but, fortunately, the surface water is so pure that deep wells aie not necessary. The insoluble nature of the rock leaves the supply entirely free from any large amounts of mineral ingredients, and the sparsely settled character of the country secures immunity from hurtful organic contamination. Analyses are given below of the water of several typical streams, springs and wells in this county, which show the marked purity and bealthfulness of the waters of this section. To interpret their analyses it should be said that the presence of chlorides and ammonia indicate animal, or organic contamination, while the amount of solid matter shows the dissolved mineral ingredients. The recognized limits of safety for a drinking water are concerned chiefly with the presence of chlorides and albumenoid ammonia. When chlorides exceed two grains pei- U. S. gallon, and when albumenoid ammonia exceeds 10 parts in 100,000,000 a water should be regarded with suspicion from a health standpoint. With these facts in mind the tables speak for themselves.

I. The occurrence of rocky shoals over which the stream will descend a number of feet in elevation within a comparatively short distance, the power being proportional to the fall.

1. Throughout this county the beds of streams are marked at frequent intervals by the presence of transverse rocky ledges of greater or less fall over which the waters pass from one comparatively level stretch to another.

2. The general slope of these quiet stretches determines the velocity which is effected in bringing the water to the dam at a given speed. The streams of this county are swiftly flowing at all points. The rivers between the shoals maintain without much variation an average flow of one foot per second. This estimate is a safe average based on actual observations on Middle Oconee river at Tallasee Shoals where the velocity is 1.6 feet per second, and on the same river above the Princeton Shoals, where the velocity is .852 feet per second.

3. The volume of water passing the top of a shoal will be the product of the area of a vertical cross section of the stream by the velocity. Cross sections, of course, will vary with different stages of the water, but estimates on the Middle Oconee river taken in the early fall season when the water is lowest, show at Tallasee Shoals an area of 152 square feet, and at Princeton an area of 400 square feet, the respective velocities being 1.6 feet and 832 feet per second. The product of these factors give at Tallasee 25 horse power for every foot of fall, and at Princeton 35 horse power for every foot of fall, the increase at the latter point being due to the waters of several large creeks which empty into this river between the two shoals. These are minimum figures.

The drainage area of the two rivers is very hilly, a fact which tends to make a large per centage of the water from rainstorms run off rapidly. On the other hand, these water sheds are well wooded and the underlying rock system is fissured so that much of the rainfall is rapidly absorbed and given forth gradually to the streams and branches Actual observations on the waters of Trail creek, whose water shed is 12 square miles give the following table for a point near the creek's mouth.

The first observation was in the spring when the general flow was full ; the latter at a time when the water was lowest. Taking the average between these two we have 17.8 cubic feet per second as the average flow of the stream, which is equivalent to 1,537,920 cubic feet per day. The annual rainfall for this section being 54 inches, the mean daily rainfall is .14 in., which, on an area of 12 square miles, gives a total volume of water amounting to 4,183,010 cubic feet. Of this, the observations show that 2,645,090 cubic feet are lost to the stream by evaporation, by running off in storm water, and by absorption and evaporation from vegetable growth and in deep fissures. Calculated to per centage this shows that an average of 37% of the rain fall is available for supplying the stream. This calculation has been given in detail in order to use the available % on other streams in the county. Fanning in his excellent work on water supply shows that 40% of the total rainfall may be taken as available to maintain the flow of a stream. The close agreement between his data and the observations on Trail creek lend further strength to the figure as given. We, therefore, may use 40% for the creeks of this county as a basis upon which to estimate their average volume and the horsepower which they will give, as shown in the table below.

In the foregoing table the lengths and drainage areas of the streams have been taken as far as possible from the county map. Streams along the borders, and particularly in the county, have been estimated from general maps of the adjoining counties. [In the case of Middle Oconee river the estimated average flow from drainage area is 41,000,000 cubit feet per day, and from observations at the Bobbin mill, in October, 1892, 40,700,000 cubic feet per day.]

Water Power Sites

(a) Tallasee Shoals. \M miles long; total fall 43'; H. P. per i' fall 25 Total H. P. 1007.5 ; owned by a company of Athens merchants; for sale on easy terms; not now utilized; formerly used for grist mill ; good topography on either bank for race way and mill buildings ; 8 miles from Athens, 4 miles from McLeroy's Station on G. C. & N. R. R.

(a) Athens SJioals. Total fall, 13 feet. H. P. per foot 1 ft fall. 26. Total H. P., 338. Located in the city of Athens, and owned by the Athens Manufacturing Co , R. L. Bloomfield, Agent., a fine masonry dam, and turbine of 300 H. P. The factory makes cotton yarns and dyes them ; 10,000 spindles. It is a good paying investment ; is lighted by electric lights run by the water power

(b) Georgia Factoiy. The shoals are >2 mile in length. Total fall, about 30 feet. 30 H. P. per i foot fall. Total H.P., 900. Located in the centre of the town of Whitehall, and owned by J. R. White and others ; five and one-half miles from Athens, and ^ mile from depot of

Whitehall. Now utilized by a cotton factory, with turbines yielding 300 H. P. Fine dam and race ^ mile long ; also a grist mill run by power from same race. (c) Barnetf s Shoals. Located on Oconee river, below the junction point of the two forks, and lying just across the county line. The shoals are i>^ miles in length, with a total fall of 54.7 feet. The volume of water is 724.8 cubic feet per second ; velocity, i' per second ; H. P. per I ft. fall, 70 ; total H. P., 3,780. Located 12 miles from Athens and 43^ miles from railroad at Watkinsville. Owned by the Athens Manufacturing Co , R. L. Bloomfield, Agent, and at present used to operate a large cotton mill, 7,500 spindles; wing dam and race, controlling the flow of the river ; turbines now take up 400 H. P. One of the best powers in this whole section. Power leased to manufacturers.

(a) Sykes' Mill. Seven miles from Athens on the county line ; total fall, 36'; ii. P. per foot fall estimated at .9 H. P. ; total H. P., 32. Owned by Sykes Bros., Athens, and utilized by a good saw and grist mill plant.

(c) Paper M ill. Located at the junction of McNutt's and Barber's creeks ; total fall, 18 feet ; estimated H. P. per i foot fall, 5.00 H. P. ; total, 90 H. P. ; located on Princeton road, 4 miles from Athens, and 35^ miles from depot at Watkinsville ; hitherto utilized by a large paper mill plant ; recently bought by prominent men of Athens, and now in process of change to a fine cotton mill for the manufacture of cotton yarns,rope, etc., under name of Alpha Mills, W. D. Griffith, agent, Athens ; value of plant, with new improvements, $50,000 ; has a good dam, race, and power pit, and good brick building, two stories, with out houses.

Tottys Mill. On Nowhere road, 5 miles from Athens ; total fall, 15 ; H. P. per I foot fall, 04 ; total H. P., 6 ; owned by Mr. Totty and used for grist and ginning purposes.

Barretis Mill. On Nowhere road 4 miles from Athens. Total fall, 16 feet; total H. P. 6. Dam needing repair, and race way, for sale with 25 acres of land,

Coifs Mill. Just across Jackson county line, 7 miles from Athens ; total fall, 13' ; H. P. per i foot fall, .75 H. P. ; total H. P., 9.9 ; good dam and grist mill and saw mill, utilizing all the power.

William s Saw Mill. On old Jackson road 8 miles from Athens, just across the Madison county line. Total fall, 20 feet; total H. P., 2. Used for sawing lumber, owned by Benj. Williams.

A Wd The City Of Athens

Mill Site. On land of Wesley Puryear, on Barnett's Shoal road 61- miles from Athens, used for sawing and ginning. 20 foot fall ; total, 1 1 H. P. ; good dam and saw mill plant.

Bobbin Mill. 2;< miles from Athens. Total fall, 40 feet ; total H. P., 8. Good dam, breast wheel, mill house in bad repair; owned by the heirs of J. H.

{a) Check Factory. Shoals within the city limits. i8 foot fall ; formerly used to run the machinery of the check factory, which now uses steam. Dam was cut in December, 1890. Owned by Athens Mfg. Co. H. P., 21.6.

ib) On west fork of Trail creek 2>^ miles from Athens a shoal with fall of 9 feet occurs ; has never been used. It would furnish horsepower of 5.4 with small expense for dam.

County Statistics

Average monthly cost of tuition per pupil ;^i.09, of which the State pays ^i 0794 The average attendance in all schools was 774.25 each day.

Georgia Factory District

Branch district on the north. The sur- council is the flourishing town of Whitevey by C. B. Daniell, C. S., in 1887, de- hall. The town is essentially a factory river. The district then follows down The tuwn has two good church buildthe river to the mouth of Cedar creek, ings and supports two excellent schoo s.

and turns up said creek, following same It contain likewise a fine grist mill, sevto the mouth of Ransom's spring branch, eral stores selling general merchandise.

under the name of the Georgia Manufacturing Company. This mill is one of the oldest cotton mills in the South and has been in operation since 1829. It was originally built by James Johnson, Augustus Clayton and others, passing into the hands of John White in 1836, and has since been largely expanded and strengthened by him and his heirs, who still own and control the property. In 1854 the first brick building was put up, which was gradually enlarged until October, 1892, when it was destroyed by fire. At the time of the fire the factory was running seventy-five hundred spindles and one hundred and twenty looms for the manufacture of sheetings, shirtings, drills and yarns. The company are rebuilding the mill on the old site to cover a space fifty by three hundred and twenty-five feet, and to be two stories high. The new mill will have ten thousand spindles for fine yarn, and later will probably put in looms for the manufacture of print cloths. The valuation of the company's property is one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. One hundred and fifty operatives are employed. In addition to the buildings, they own a large amount of land and the magnificent water power on the Oconee river, which is used to run the factory. The available horse power from the river at this point is 900, of which the factory now uses 300 by means of two 32^-inch turbines. The company is one of the strongest and most reliable cotton mills in this state, and the business has always proven a good investment under a wise and conservative management. Capttain John R. White, who is now the president of the company, is recognized as an exceedingly able mill man, who not only knows how to run the finances but is thoroughly posted on the practical details. The financial success of the undertaking and the good feeling which exist between the management and operatives are largely due to the good j udgment and tact which the officials of the company display.

As will be seen from an inspection of the map, this district is divided into equal parts by the east fork of the Oconee river, and has the western fork of the same river for much of its western boundary. The river valley is deep and narrow, and lies 200 feet below the table lands adjoining. That portion of the land lying along the river is very precipitous and rough. It is well timbered and has several large bodies of original forest. While the district is essentially a rough district, it contains large areas of uplands which are easily cultivated and of marked agricultural value. Of the total 5,932 acres, probably as much as 4,500 acres are readily tillable. The district abounds in freestone springs along the hillsides, and wells are reached at easy depths. The soil is essentially of red clay, and is rich in potash and phosphoric acid.

The public roads from Athens, leading southward on both sides of the river, traverse this district. A bridge over the river provides for a cross road east and west, which leads on one side into Puryear's district and Oglethorpe county,, and in the other direction to Watkinsville, the county seat of Oconee county. Following the general line of the public road, the Macon and Northern railroad runs through the district and has stations at Whitehall and Watkinsville.

hall, Athens and Watkinsville, all of which points are readily reached from the district. People living in the southeast section sometimes attend Big Creek and Corinth churches in Oconee county. The two schools at Whitehall are the district schools.

covering the farming lands and improvements. This divided by the total acreage gives an average valuation of ^11 per acre for improved land. The presence of a considerable town, and the railroad, combined with nearness to Athens, are factors in this high valuation. White people own $258,645 ; colored, $5,900. The price of land will vary from $6 to $30 per acre.

The property returned for taxation in this district, including the factory plant, reaches a figure of $264,545. Of this at least $200,000 may be included in the town of Whitehall, leaving $64,545 as

Outside of the large cotton mills with a capacity of 10,000 spindles, and the grist mill at the same point, there is one located on Cedar creek, owned by Wesley Puryear,drawing its power from the creek and used for ginning and sawing lumber. Many of the farmers of this district use the large steam gin of John Tuck, located at the intersection of the Win-

A total of 17 farms are returned in this district, 12 owned by the whites and 5 by negroes. The latter holdings are small. The principal lands belong to John R. White, Willis Kettle, the Wm. Kittle estate, and the Wm. Brittain estate. The farms are, as a rule, worked

The small area of the district and its proximity to Whitehall and Athens offers little support to storekeepers outside of those towns. Accordingly there is no store in the knowledge of the author located in the district at other points.

Puryear'S District

The district occupies the southeast section of the county, adjoining Buck Branch district on the north, Oglethorpe county on the east, Oconee county on the south and Georgia Factory district on the west. The official survey made by C. B. Daniel, county surveyor, in 1887, calls for the following limits :

The district is divided by the waters of Cedar, Shoal and Big creeks into three main ridges, with narrow valleys between them. Numerous branches, supplied by bold springs, course down the sides of the ridges with rapid fall. Between the heads of branches on either side of the ridges a broad expanse of rolling upland is spread. The larger portion of the land has been cleared of its original forest of oaks, hickories and pines. Scarcely more than 10% of the area is now covered with primitive tree growth. It is estimated that 35% of the district will closely represent the total amount of woodland, three-fourths of which is second growth pine and oak. The remainder is cleared and utilized for cultivation and pasturage.

The road system is composed of five main roads, two of which run along the ridges, and the other three directly across the same in a general westerly course. These roads are connected with main thoroughfares in the adjoining counties.

The Baptist and Methodist denominations have three church structures in reach of the people. Two of these are just at the Oconee line on the Oconee side, and are known as Big Creek and Corinth churches, the latter Methodist, and the former Baptist. A chapel known as Bethel chapel is located near the centre of the district.

The public school for whites is located on the plantation of Hon. W. H. Morton. Under the state law this school is open during five months of the year and is in charge at present of an excellent teacher.

Another is located at Bethel church. There are also three schools for colored children - one near Shiloh church, one on W. H. Morton's farm, and one near Jones' store.

The main crops of the district are cotton, corn and oats. Of these the district raises from 1,500 to 2,000 bales of cotton, from 5,000 to 10,OiO bushels of corn and 5,000 bushels of oats. Hay from native grasses and peavines are raised for market on a limited scale.

The total property returns of the district, including farm improvements and equipment, aggregates $118,745; of which the negroes own $7,730, a little less than 1 per cent. Calculated from the area, it is seen that average value of improved land per acre is $7. The extremes of value run from ^5 to $20, based on quality of soil, amount of improvements and distance from the city of Athens.

Gins are located on the farms of Wni. Dean, W H. Morton, W. R. Tuck, and others. Also, wheelwright and blacksmith shops, grist and saw mills are found in the district.

There are 25 farms owaed by white men and 3 o Amed by negroes. The land is chiefly owned in large bodies, and is worked under the tenant system, elsewhere described. Where laborers are employed the wages paid are on a basis of $95 to $108 per year, with board, for able bodied men. The principal land owners are W. H. Morton, Wm. Dean, W. R. Tuck, T. F. Tribble, Scott Martin, the Puryear estate, W. B, Davis, James Smith, Joel Dean and James Spinks.

This portion of the county offers excellent opportunity for settlers. Small holdings from 25 to 200 acres can be readily bought from the large land owners. A large number of two-room houses, built for the occupation of tenants, are distributed throughout the district, and usually a purchaser can secure a small farm with such a structure ready for use. The noithern portion of the district is 4 miles from the court house, and the southern extremity is 11|- miles. The land is strong and fertile, and much of it lies exceptionally well for the plow.

Sandy Creek District

Lies in the northern ha'f of the county, wedged in between Buck Branch district on the east and Kinney's district on the west, and extends northward from the city limits of Athens to the Madison and Jackson county lines The Hull road is its eastern boundary and the Oconee river its western limit.

The proximity to the river, and the presence of Sandy creek and its branch es, gives to the district a far more broken and hilly character than Puryear's or Buck Branch. Sandy creek is a considerable stream, and has two important tributaries in Noketchee and Little Sandy creeks. The minor streamlets running into the creeks are very plentiful, and separate hills of great height and steep ascent The streams will average from 100' to 150' in elevation below the hilltops. Notwithstanding the uneven surface, the land in this district is rich^ and fertile, and the backs of the ridges are broad and reasonable in slope. The land has been under cultivation for a number of years, and in places where terracing has been done is not only tillable but easily so. As nearly as can be estimated, about 50 per cent, of this district is now covered with woods, including a fair proportion of original forest of

The district is traversed north and south by three important public roads - leading into the counties of Madison and Jackson - and a movement has been started to open a new thoroughfare leading to Athens more directly and with easier grades than at present. A reference to the map will clearly show the positions of the present district roads.

At present there is no church in the district other than that at Barberville, in the Athens suburbs. The people attend services across the line in Madison county, or at Nicholson, in Jackson county.

There is a county school located in Barberville for the whites, and two for colored children - one at Johnstown, on the Nowhere road, and the other at St. Mary's church.

The cotton crop of this district yearly amounts to 800 bales. Corn is rarely sold from this section, but 5,000 bushels are raised for home use. About 3,000 bushels of oats are also produced.

The tax books show a total $125,670 of property in this district. Of this the negroes own $19,165, being alittle more than one-seventh of the total. The calculation per acre average price gives $W. This is for improved property. But lands at actual sales have averaged $7 per acre.

Two excellent water powers are found along the creeks in this district, and a third is located just above the county line in Jackson county. The first is known as Barrett's mill on Noketchee creek. The stream at this place drops 15 feet, and the volume of water makes the fall represent 6 H. P. The second is further north on Little Sandy creek, and now utilized as Totty's mill. This water power may be relied on for 6 H. P. The third is on the main stream of Sandy creek at Colt's mill, and represents nearly 10 H. P. Several excellent steam gins are also used by this district.

Of 61 farms in the district, 34 are held by white men, and 27 by negroes The average farm of the district on this basis is 150 acres. Most of the holdings by negroes are small farms from 18 to 60 acres, with a house on each. Placing the average negro farm at 30 acres, it

Most of the trading of the district is done at Barberville or Athens, and this fact, combined with the small population, leaves little room for country stores. Two excellent stores at Barberville are well sustained.

The opening of a new road from Totty's mill to the Sandy creek bridge is a strong need of the district, and will greatly facilitate the traffic throughout the region along the east side of Sandy creek, both by shortening the distance to Athens and by giving much lighter grades. The principal land owners of the district are J. R. Crawford, J. G. Gray, H. F. Comer, H. B. Mitchell, T. F Hudson, the Wilson estate, the Yerby estate, T. F. Mitchell, A. A. Saye, B. J. Porterfield and W. J. Woods.

Buck Branch District

The district lies in the northeast corner the county, adjoining Madison county on the north, Oglethorpe county on the east, Puryear's and Georgia Factory districts on the south, the city limits and Sandy Creek district on the west. Official surveys made by C. B. Daniell, C. S., -calls for the following: limits :

The great body of this district lies on the broad back of the plateau which forms the dividing area at the point between the watershed of the Oconee and South Broad rivers. The head waters of Shoal creek, one branch of Big creek, and the whole watershed of Trail creek drains this district into the Oconee river. The headwaters of Beaver Dam creek likewise take their rise in the extreme northeastern part of the district and flow into the South Broad river. Rolling upland is present in great abundance, and the creek valleys are not so deep, nor with sides so hilly as farther south. Springs and branches are quite numerous, running like rays from the curving sides of the plateau into the main water courses. This district, too, has felt the axe to a marked degree on its original forest, and claims but a small percentage now standing. Secondary growth has been vigorous, and the shaded land may be fairly placed at 40

A public road runs from Athens to the town of Winterville, just on the Oglethorpe line. From this road a branch to the left leads off northward into Madison county, and at Winterville several other roads radiate into Oglethorpe, Madison and Clarke counties. A number of cross roads run between the main lines and open up the district in excellent manaer.

On the county line of Ogethorpe and Clarke, the thriving little town of Winterville is situated, lying half in one county and half in the other. A total population of about 500 people is centered there. Substantial merchants, good store houses, several churches and schools, and the presence of the Georgia railroad, make Winterville a very thriving community. The town is very young, and has had its growth since the Georgia road went through. It derived its name from Diedrich Winter, a sturdy German, who settled in Clarke county in 185(1, and gained large property. The town draws its patronage from three counties, whose soils are fertile and whose people are thrifty. No small town in this section is more solidly built or more steadily prosperous.

Outside of Winterville, where two thriving churches are in operation, the Moore's Grove Baptist church near the Madison county line is the most important. The negro churches are several in number and the services regular.

of Winterville, and the real estate valuation of so much of that town as lies in the county. Deducting $60,000, there remains $153,000 as the valuation on the agricultural lands. This sum, divided by the acreage of the district, gives an average of $10 per acre for the district. The presence of the Georgia railroad, which traverses the entire district, and of the Georgia, Carolina and Northern railroad, which runs along the north- western side, have much to do with the increased average. Land remote from these railroads sells as low as $5 per acre, and near them, at $20 to $30.

William's saw mill, on Beavei- Dam creek, a number of cotton gins at various points, several blacksmith shops and a grist mill supply conveniences of their kind to the district.

Fifty-six farms owned by white men, and thirteen held by colored men, are returned for taxes. The farms in this district vary greatly in size, none of them being more than 800 acres. The tenant system is practiced by the larger farmers, but not on so large a scale as in Puryears district. None of the farmers work the land in person. More of the farmers work the land in person, and with hired labor under yearly contracts for ^108 a year for able bodied men.

The principal land owners of the district are J. F. Anderson, J. A. Pitner, G. T. Murrell, the Coile estate, L. J. Edwards, the Mathews estate, G. T. Brightwell, and the Pittard estate.

This district has the advantage of excellent farming soil and ready markets at Winterville or Athens. The extreme farms are not more than nine miles from Athens and five miles from the railroad at Winterville. Much of the cotton of the district is handled at the latter place, and shipped to Athens to be compressed and exported. The establishment of stations on the new Ga., C. and N. R. R. further opens up a fine part of this district. Land is still cheap at ;^8 per acre, and is yearly increasing in value.

Is a thriving village community at the junction of Buck Branch, Puryear and Georgia Factory districts. It lies four miles from Athens on the main Lexington road, and at a pomt where the public road from Whitehall to Winterville crosses that road. It takes its name in honor of John R. Tuck, who owns a store and steam gin at this point, and who is a man of influence and public spirit in the community. The presence of two churches, two schools, two stores, a beef market, a gin and saw mill, a shoe and blacksmith shop, are evidences of its present prosperity. More than one hundred people are gathered near this poini. Through the community runs Greer's lane, once a noted race track, and Ransom's spring marks the spot near which lies buried, Reuben Ransom, said to be a great uncle of Senator Ransom, of North Carolina, and a brave soldier of the Revolution His home was the resort of many of the most prominent families of the early days of the county. Ransom's spring is supposed to have been excavated in the rock by the Indians ; and it is stated that beneath the shade of the surrounding grove, much of the "Georgia Scenes" was written by its distinguished author. Judge Longstreet.

Bradberrys District

This district occupies the extreme western part of the county beyond the Middle Oconee river, and north of the Princeton district line. This line begins on McNutt's Creek at the mouth of Malcolm's branch, runs up said branch to the head waters of Chauncey's branch, thence down said branch to the Middle Oconee river. The district line then follows up the river to the Patman mill place, and thence runs with the countylines of Jackson and Oconee counties back to the beginning corner.

The district lies on the broad ridge dividing the waters of McNutt's and Bear creeks. Most of its surface is elevated plateaus from which the branches flow in quick descent to the river and streams. The upland is about 230 feet above the river and about 125 feet above the valley of McNutt's creek. The northern section, adjoining Little Bear and Bear Creeks is very rough and broken, the water ways cut out narrow fissures through the hills, whose sides are steep and even precipitous. At places the hills broaden out and surround small patches of bottom lands. The ridge tops are largely cleared of timber, but bodies of forests along the river and creeks still supply saw mills in the district. The wooded area is about 58% of which 20% maybe estimated as original forests. Roads.

To reach the district from Athens it is necessary to cross Mitchell's bridge, and the extension of this road from the bridge along the top of the main ridge in a westerly direction, constitutes the main traffic way of the district. All other roads are branches from this. The main road is known as the Lawrenceville road. At the five-mile post a branch leads diagonally to the northwestern section of the county and stops at the Jackson county line. Another branch at the Jennings place leads southerly to Sykes' mill and into Oconee county. At the eight-mile post an important branch leads off to the left into Oconee county and on to the town of Monroe. At the

Near the 6-mile post on the Lawrenceville road the Baptists have a strong church, known as Mt. Zion. Just across the Oconee county line there is another flourishing church by the name of New Hope. The main white school is located near Dr. Burson, on the same public road. The negroes have a good church and two schools in this district. The church is about nine miles from Athens, and the building is also used for one of the schools. The other school is near the Jennings place.

Fowler's grist and saw mill, on Little Bear creek ; Sykes' mill and gin, on McNutts creek ; an excellent mill site at the old Patman mill place at the lower end of Tallasee shoals ; Thompson saw mill, on Little Bear creek just at the northwest corner of the county, and a site for a mill on McNutts creek where the public road crosses, once known as the Barnard mill place, represent the milling facilities of this section.

The tax returns for the district during 1892 amount to ^70,875, owned by whites, and $8,480, owned by colored, making a total of $79,355. The average price of improved lands, based on these data, may be taken at $9 per acre, and the extremes at from $h to $20 per acre.

The principal landowners of the district are S. T. Benton, W. N Burson, Jesse Daniell estate, J. W. Fulcher, J. L. McLeroy, John Sykes, J. N. Weir, the Jennings estate, Tolbert Lester, C. Hale, H. Fowler and B. J. Oldham.

The land is owned in large bodies and worked on the tenant system. The lands of the district are fertile and well watered, and have been under cultivation ruany years.

The principal cash bringing crop is cotton, of which the district raised about 700 bales. Of corn probably 3,000 bushels, and of oats 1,000 bushels belong annually to this district.

The opening of the Georgia, Carolina and Northern R. R. through this district has imparted new life and growth. It has caused land values to take an upward movement, and, in fact, opens up much property which was hitherto undesirable.

Kinney'S District

Kinney's district takes its name from Jos. A. Kinney and lies in the northern half of the county between the two branches of the Oconee river. By recent surveys, a portion of this district has been thrown into the Athens district, and the line of division runs from a stone on the Mitchell's bridge road in a straight line to include the house of J. S. Williford on the Newton's bridge road. This survey cut off 1,497 acres. The two rivers are the eastern and western boundaries, and the Jackson county line marks its northern limit.

The district is traversed in a northeasterly course by the main ridge which separates the two rivers, and from which numerous spurs run each way to the rivers. The top of this ridge is at a general elevation of 225 feet above the stream levels, and is undulating and varied in outline. Along the rivers and branches steep hills are formed, while in the center large tracts of sloping upland are spread. The waters of Cub creek, Poss creek, and Turkey creek, and Phinizy's branch, are the principal tributary streams. Upon them several small water powers, varying from 2 to 7 H. P., are located. The district has long been under cultivation, and much of the land is cleared. The woodland will probably reach 50 per cent, of the total area of which 18 per cent is in original forest. Outcroppings of the underlying gniess occur at various points along the streams. The valleys of both rivers are very narrow, especially that of the western fork, and but little bottom land is found along the banks. Roads.

The Jefferson road is the main northern tho -oughfare leading along the central ridge with easy grades for the most part. The road to Newton's bridge follows the eastern side of the district paralleling the N. E. R. R., and crosses the river by Newton's bridge into Sandy- Creek district, and thence into Jackson county. The Tallasee bridge road traverses the district on a diagonal to the extreme northwest corner, crossing the Middle Oconee river at Tallasee shoals into Jackson county. A branch of the Jefferson road leads to the right, crossing Cub creek and the county line near the home of Marion Williams. The county map clearly defines the public road system.

Bogg's chapel, near the Jefferson road, and Prospect church, in the northwest corner of the district, near Tallasee bridge, are the two church buildings for white worshippers of this district. Several negro churches are in the district. A Public school on the Jackson line near the residence of J. R. Nichols, and several others at convenient points in the district, are kept open during five months of the year.

Cotton, corn, hay, oats and so.ghum are raised. Of these cotton is the principal marketable staple. The district raises about 800 bales per annum.

According to the tax digest for 1892, the total property is placed at $253,860, which includes the 1,497 acres recently cut off from the district. Of this amount the more valuable portion is located near the city of Athens, where a number of fine suburban residences are located, and where the value of land is high under the hope that it will soon be needed for building lots. That portion is in reality a part of Athens, and though not subject to city taxes, is within th'^ influence of the electric car line and other city improvements. Valuable brick yards along the Northeastern Railroad also swell the property returns for this district. Taking away these artificial factors, the land values of the district will range at $10 per acre. Within the city-affected area property is held all the way from $20 to $1,000 per acre.

The excellent grist mill, known as McLeroy's mill, is in this district, and near the railroad station of the same name. On the Jackson county line another excellent grist and saw mill is operated by the Fowlers. Several steam gins are to be found at convenient points in the district. The magnificent water power of Tallasee Shoal, with a total fall of 43 feet and a gross H. P. of i,ooo, is at present not utilized.

Forty three farms over i8 acres each are returned for taxes; 39 owned by white men, 4 by colored. Some of them are of large extent, and the principal land owners are Patman Lester, G. F. Hunnicutt, J. R. Nichols, Marion Williams, Jackson & Vincent, Harvey Archer, W. A. Gilleland, estate, Phinzy estate and J. A. Hunnicutt.

The G. C. & N. R. R. touches this district and has a station at McLeroys. The extreme point of the district is at a distance of 91-2 miles from Athens. The Tallassee Shoals are five miles from McLeroys Station. The land produces well and is abundantly watered.

Princeton District

The district was laid out in February, 1891, and touches the city limits on the southwest and follows the Georgia Factory district on the east, the Oconee county line on the south and southwest, adjoins Bradberry's district on the west and Athens district on the north. Official surveys place the boundary as follows : Beginning at a point on the Oconee river at the mouth of Barber's creek, and running up said creek to the mouth of McNutt's creek, thence up McNutt's creek to the mouth of Malcolm's branch on the north side of McNutt's creek, thence up said branch to the head waters of Chauncey's branch, thence down said branch to the Middle Oconee river, thence down said river to Yerkin's island, near the mouth of Bobbin Mill creek, and thence 1139-2 e 84.65 chains to the city limits of Athens; thence with the city limits to the Macon and Northern railroad, thence with said railroad to a sewer near residence of Dock Giles, thence to said Giles' spring, thence down the spring branch n78^ w 14.50 chains, thence west to the corner of John R. White's property, thence &6\% W30 chains with White's line to the Oconee river, and thence down said river to the besrinning: corner.