Wayne County, Ohio - Chapter 4: Topography and General Features, 1910

Chapter 4: Topography and General Features

[For the facts herein stated, the author of this work is indebted to a like article written prior to 1877 by Hon. John P. Jeffries, of AVooster, hence it comes with almost undisputed authority.]

Wayne county, located on the southern declivity of the dividing ridge intervening iDetween the northern lakes and the Ohio river, has been in all ages past the theatre of marked changes prior, as well as subsec[uent, to the time of the eler^ation of the Alleghanies and the formation of the northern lakes. The whole face of the country shows the action of the flowing water, and that the entire surface many centuries ago was covered by a deep sea, and wrought upon by its turbulent action, is plainly manifested upon the elevations in the valleys and the alluvial plains.

The territory of AA^ayne county is a part of that great topographical district reaching from the lakes to the gulf of Mexico, and from the Alleghany to the Rocky mountains. The northern limits of this county, extending within a few miles of the southern rim of the Lake Erie basin, is the watershed, or divide l^etween the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi. The spill, or summit level, is at Summit Lake, near the city of Akron, in Summit county, and is three hundred and ninety-five feet above Lake Erie, while the. summit dividing the waters of the Black river and the Killbuck, north of Bridgeport, near Lodi, Medina county, is at an altitude of three hundred and eighty-two feet above the lake level. The highest land in AAfayne county is in the vicinity of Doylestown, Chippewa township, which is four hundred and thirty feet above I.ake Erie and one thousand forty-two feet above the Atlantic ocean.

The main portion of AA'ayne county - indeed, nearly every part of it - is covered with drift, and the value and nature of the soil is regulated by the character of the drift spread over the surface, varying in depth from ten to seventy or eighty feet in vertical thickness, the average drift deposit being about twenty-five feet.

The mass of soil is generally composed of sand, gravel, clay and loam, though in some portions the clay predominates, as in the beech district in the northern part of the county; but mixed with these leading constituents in proper proportions are those essentials which make the soil productive and produce the abundant crops for which this county is so noted, such as silica, lime, magnesia, alumnia, iron, phosphorus and soda. The soil is not, as some suppose, limited to a few inches of surface, but is as deep as the drift itself, though, properly speaking, the soil, so called by the farmers, is confined to a few inches in depth from the surface.

The whole surface of Wayne county contains 342,805 acres, the area of which, by the territory of the several townships, is as follows : Paint,

The early settlers of this county found it densely wooded, except the marshy districts and the plain of lands of Wooster, Chester, Plain and Clinton townships. The Plains (then termed the Glades upon the presumption, from appearance, that they were of the character of glade lands in Pennsylvania, poor and worthless) turned out to be the most productive lands of the county. When first visited by white men they were barrens, thickly wooded with low, bushy oak, from three to four feet high, which gave evidence of being the product of an impoverished soil, and the early settlers, being of this opinion, shunned these glades, preferring rather to clear away the heavy forests and open up their farms, instead of attempting the cultivation of this land.

Thirty years prior to settlement, as this undergrowth would indicate, these plains were entirely destitute of wood except a few scattering oaks, preserved, as if by desig'ii, for shade. These plains were doubtless cultivated fields of a pre-historic race, whose works of art are still manifest in and around them, such as the mounds, fortifications and tumuli of ^^Moster, Plain and other townships.

Today the leading forest trees are the oaks, with some hickory, chestnut. sugar maple, ash, walnut, butternut, cherry, gum, r|uaking asp, cucumber, mulberry, buckeye, plum, crab, thorn, willow, prickh" ash, locust, hawthorn, dogwood, alder, etc. The dogwood during Mav, even at this date, ornaments every highland wood with its beautiful flowers, and the lower woodlands still teem with fragrance from the blossoms of the thorn and crab.

The main stream of Wayne county is the Killbuck; then come the Chippewa, Mohican, Salt creek, Apple creek and Sugar creek. Killbuck takes its rise in Canaan and Wayne townships and is in three small branches, that form junction beyond the center of Canaan township, its waters flowing toward the north into Medina county, then turning almost west into Congress township, this county, wherein for about one mile it flows in a southerly course, meanders through various townships and finally runs about a mile west of Wooster, leaving Wayne county from Franklin township, entering Holmes county.

The Chippewa, the next largest water course, has its origin in Chippewa lake, Medina county. It enters Wayne county near the northwest corner of Milton township and flows in a southerly direction, thence into Chippewa township to the east line of Wayne into Stark county. This stream, also Sugar creek and Newman's creek, are tributaries of the Tuscarawas, while the others above named, with their branches, find their way into the Killbuck.

Sugar creek's source is in East Union and Baughman townships, with tributaries in Sugarcreek and Paint townships, the chief of which is Grable's Fork.

Apple creek has its rise in Wayne and Saltcreek townships, the main branch flowing through East Union, into Wooster township, and unites with the Killbuck about one-fourth of a mile southwest of the city of Wooster. The northern branch rises near the south line of Canaan township and flows south into Wooster township, uniting with the main stream near Stibb's old factory, about a mile east of the city.

Salt creek takes its rise in East Union township and some of its forked heads come from Saltcreek township. The main stream passes out into Holmes county.

Newman's creek consists of two main branches, one rising in Sugarcreek township and the other in Baughman township. The main stream rises near Dalton village, flows north to near Fairview, where it turns east, and after uniting with the north branch, runs into Stark count3^ forming junction with the Tuscarawas north of Massillon.

fork of the Mohican makes a circuit through the southwest corner of Chester into Plain township, through which it extends in a southeasterly course to near the center of the township, where it turns to the west and flows out of the county two miles northwest of the corner of Plain township.

Little Kilibuck creek rises mainly in Chester township, extends into Wooster township, and unites with the main stream three miles northwest of the city of Wooster.

Clear creek and Christmas run rise in Wayne township and flow south, forming junction with the Kilibuck in Wooster township, two miles west of Wooster, on the old Eicher farm; the Christmas run joins the Kilibuck a mile southwest of the city of Wooster. Reddick's Springs, one of the branches of Christmas run, at one date furnished an abundant supply of pure water for the city of Wooster.

The Spring Mills run issues from springs in Plain township, flows south through the village of Millbrook and about a mile farther south unites with the Kilibuck.

Crawford run, also known as Bahl's Mill run, has its source in springs in Wooster and Plain townships, flows southeast and enters the Kilibuck about three miles southwest of Wooster city. It furnishes power for saw-mills and two grist-mills, yet is only a few miles in length.

Cedar run, a small, pure stream, flowing into Cedar valley, issues from springs in the highlands of Congress township and from parts of Chester, uniting with the Kilibuck a short distance from where it debouches from the Cedar valley.

Little Sugar creek is a small stream of some importance, as is also the north branch of Apple creek. It rises in Canaan and Wayne townships, flowing down through Wayne and Greene, across the corner of East Union into Sugar creek. This stream runs through the village of Smithville and a short distance south of Orrville.

The north branch of Apple creek has its source in Wayne township, near the south line, and flows southwest of Madisonville into Wooster township, uniting with the east branch near the Stibb's factory site, one mile east of Wooster city.

Little Chippewa creek rises in Canaan township, being formed from a series of pure, cold springs. The main branch runs north into section 13 to the southwest quarter, where it turns northeast and flows into Milton township and there unites with the Chippewa, west of the village of Amwell.

Resides the streams enumerated, there are smaller ones, which, with numerous springs, provide an ahundance of good water throughout the county.

The general surface of Wayne county is more rolling than otherwise, yet it is sufficiently low and level to he well adapted to farming, grazing and general agriculture. The whole face of the county shows the action of water, from the lowest valleys to the summit of the highest elevation; but when it was acted upon, is mere conjecture. It is supposed by some that this section was once a part of one great sea. It should be stated, in this connection, that the greater portion of the land within Wayne county is susceptible of cultivation.

There are several large bodies of prairie lands in this county, located near Wooster, in Wooster, Plain, Canaan, Milton, Clinton, Franklin, Baughman and Sugarcreek townships, the chief, however, being situated in Plain and Clinton. The origin is not well established, but there is evidence of such lands having once been under water - probably lakes and marshes - and in time's course were encroached upon and overgrown by vegetation. In some places it appears as if islands had once here existed, sometime covered with timber and often large and aged trees. Some of them, such as Newman's creek swamp, were covered with a thick underbrush, while others, such as may be seen near Wooster, contained thrifty trees, with wide, far-reaching roots. This was tested in Canaan township, near Pike township, during the construction of the Atlantic & Great Western railway. The surface of the land there being covered with underbrush and thick sod, Avas appropriated by the company for the bed of the road, but suddenly and unexpectedly, without previous indications, a large portion of the track disappeared, passing beneath into a hidden lake.

The botany of the prairies presents a wonderful array of rare flora. Such lands, during the summer blooming period, are literally covered with the most beautiful and fragrant flowers.

There are still several lakes in this county, while there remain signs of man}^ extinct ones - beds where once stood lake water - and the scene a thousand or more years ago was a romantic one of river, lake and hillside. Fox lake, in Baughman township, is the largest of the existing true lakes. Its location is in a marshy district, known as Tamarack Swamp, in the southeast corner of sections i, 2, ii and 12. Its waters are cold, pure and wonderfully clear, indicating a series of springs from which it is fed. This lake was measured or sounded in the seventies, when a man rvas drowned in its waters, and it is said that in the center it was upwards of one hundred feet deep. Before the advent of white men here, it was a popular fishing resort for the Indian tribes. It has been a favorite fishing resort for our people for many decades, and still the fishes are numerous and excellent in quality, Wayne, Stark and Medina county fishermen frequenting its waters annually.

Patton's lake is a body of clear, cold water, of an oblong shape, about one-fourth as large as Fox lake, which is about a third of a mile distant from it, near the center of section 12 of Baughman township, in the Tamarack Swamp district. Three small streams flow into this pretty water sheet, its outlet being on the northwest side. It is not nearly so deep as Fox lake, but abounds in many fine fishes. The crystal character of water justifies the belief that it contains an interior fountain. The swampy lands near these two lakes retain a wild condition, and are literally covered (or were in 1878) with tamarack trees, whortleberries, some growing eight feet high, underbrush, flags and tall prairie grass. In the marshes once grew great quantities of cranberries, and as for whortleberries, nowhere in the country can there be found such a large abundance. In an early day this lake region of Wayne county was noted for its being a resort for bears, wolves, panthers and wild cats, which often made night terrible to the hardy pioneers. Deer also took shelter hereabouts as a refuge from the hunter. Smaller animals, such as beaver, otter, raccoons, opossums and minks, also resorted here in search for food and shelter. Once - hundreds of years ago - this entire swamp district must have been a real lake. Year after year the farmer has encroached on this territory and reclaimed much of the once worthless swamp, and now may be seen many luxuriant crops growing on this "rich-as-Nile" soil.

Another lake, called Doner's lake, is located in Chippewa township. It is of a circular form ; no stream flows into it and hence it must be fed by internal springs.

Brown's lake is situated in Clinton township, and it is not unlike Doner's lake, appearing to have an internal supply of water and a constantly flowing outlet.

Manley's lake is a small body of clear, cold water in section 16 of Clinton township. It is situated on highly elevated land and from its eastern side issues forth a small, never-failing, stream of pure water, sparkling with life and beauty. From it runs a stream, a branch of the one that flows through the low lands in the neighborhood of Shreve.

The lowlands in the valley of Newman's creek, extending from the vicinity of Orrville eastward to beyond the east line of Baughman township, known as Newman's Creek Swamp when the first settlers came to this county, was the wildest, most inaccessible and dismal district within its boundaries. At first it was styled the Dismal Swamp and later the Shades of Death, and for many years none but the brave and daring hunters from the pioneer band dared enter its confines. It was then literally covered with tall trees and underbrush, and along the streams were low marshy spots, where the choicest of cranberries grew in immense quantities. The stream itself was alive with fishes. Wild potatoes grew there in great abundance, sufficient to supply the settlers with food for miles around.

Before the advent of the white settlers Baughman township was, about this swamp, a safe retreat for game and wild animals and was frequented by the Indians, who made it a lurking place, as well as a fishing and hunting ground. Even after the settlement had grown to considerable importance there might have been seen here bears, panthers and wild cats, as well as elk, deer, etc. Beavers made this their home, as did raccoons and foxes. Such was the condition of this swamp in 1825 and up to 1830. The upper end of this swamp extended over into Green township and from there covered the country pretty much all of the way over east to the Stark county line, thousands of acres being embraced in the swampy wilderness. Since 1838 the woodman's ax has felled and cleared away the trees and the ditcher's spade has drained and reclaimed these once worthless lands. The once "dismal swamp" has come to be a veritable garden spot and the wilderness has in truth been made to "blossom as the rose." Today the scene is one of royal beauty, a landscape that is a feast to the eye of the beholder. For six miles the plain is unbroken and covered with good farm improvements, with here and there a clump of native timber. This swamp has long since been described as the bed of a great lake of pre-glacial times. At one remote time a much larger stream flowed here than is now known as Newman's creek.

Killbuck Swamp

To the low marshy lands between Wooster and Shreve the name of Killbuck Swamp has long been applied. When the pioneer band first came into this county a continuous swamp existed lietween these two points. It was no doubt a pre-glacial lake bed. The first visible remains of this ancientday lake are at the north edge of Wooster city. Seventy-five and eighty years ago all the low lands south and west of Wooster were covered by water the entire year round, until boatmen saw fit to remove some of the flood wood and drift lodged in the main channel of the Killbuck. These lands were then valueless. The river gradually receded into its banks and soon the flooded meadows became covered with herbage ; but it was long before they became of much value, even for grazing purposes. This territory is also within the limits of an immense pre-glacial lake, elsewhere mentioned in this work by other writers.

The early settlers of Plain and Clinton townships erected their dwellings and opened up their farms on the margin of an ancient lake, which was then a beautiful plain, covered with tall grass, flags and prairie flowers, except that it was studded with ancient islands, then thickly wooded, which resembled oases. Blachleyville stands upon table lands, overlooking the "Big Meadows," now styled the Big Prairie, that extends north, west and south of the village. The scene in the district known as the pre-historic lake country and the Killbuck Swamp has in the last half century been completely transformed, and one who saw it then would not know it today were he to come back and visit this location.

Perhaps no better description of the coal measure of W ayne county can here be furnished than that given by Hon. John P. Jeffries, who, in the Douglas history of the county, published in 1878, gave the facts as they then existed, and from which this chapter is largely made up. Before passing to the record made by Mr. Jeffries, a thorough geological student, it may be stated that the United States census reports for 1902 give the total number of tons O'f coal mined in Wayne county for that year to have been seventyfour thousand eight hundred and twenty-four. Its estimated mine r-alue was fixed at one dollar and seventy-nine cents per ton, or a total of one hundred forty thousand one hundred and fifty-three dollars. At the present date Wayne is one of the twenty-nine coal producing counties in Ohio.

Of the various mines being worked in 1878, Mr. Jeffries is the authority for these statements : The coal mines in Chippewa township number ten, including those known as the Jacob AVegandt mine, the Peter Prase mine, the Holm mines, the Boak mine, the California mine, the Franks mine, the Woods mine, the Simmons shaft, Muter's coal bank. The coal from the mines within this township is of an excellent quality, equal to the celebrated Mahoning coal.

In Milton township the coal measure is confined to eight sections of the civil township in the northern part. Much coal has been mined here at different periods since the coal of the county was first discovered.

In Baughman township as early as 1877 there were mines doing a flourishing business, as follows : The Burton bank. Jacob E. Wenger's shaft, on section 28, where the coal is four and a half feet thick. It is reached at a depth of thirty-eight feet from the surface. Then there was the John Spindler mine, opened by him about 1850. Across the swamp, one-half mile northwest from Fairview, is the Todd coal mine, the Becker mines, the Neiswanger mine, the Carroll mine. It is belieYed that coal of fine grade exists under almost the entire surface of the land within Baughman township.

East Union township is another good coal-bearing section of the county, covering as it does the entire underlaying territory, except possibly a few sections. At first the coal was not found in thickness sufficient to be profitable, but in later years lower veins have been discovered that measure in many places seven feet in thickness and not over seventy feet from the surface. Still later developments have disclosed a still greater wealth of coal in this township.

In Paint township the mines in operation before the eighties were : The Charles Brown mine, one mile west of Mt. Eaton ; the Hunsinger mine, three and one-half feet in thickness; George Mathoit's mine; Dr. Roth's coal bank ; Peter Graber's mines ; the Flory mines ; the Mt. Eaton mines, located in the village. Later developments in this township proved that paying c[uantities of good coal were to be found at almost any portion of the territory, at a depth that would pay rich returns for mining and hoisting. In fact the coal here mined now is among the finest grades in Wayne county and has been a source of great revenue to the owners.

The Sugarcreek township coal mines were first opened by drift on the west side of the hill on the farm of Mr. Gochenour, one mile tO' the west of Dalton, about 1830, but the mine having a defective roof, it was soon abandoned. Another mine was opened a mile west of Dalton on the Peter Buchanan farm ; another on the Bashford land, where the vein was over three feet thick. On the David Rudy place still another paying mine property was located many years ago. The coal of this entire township is accompanied by a fine grade of fire clay of great value commercially ; also limestone and some iron ore and mineral paint, red and yellow ochre. In short the entire township is one vast coal and general mineral field.

The coal mines of Saltcreek township have long since come to be well known and very productive and valuable to operate. The Finley mine in 1878, on the farm of Mrs. Delano Jeffries, on section 4, was being operated by Frank Becker. Ehider this coal strata was found a sand rock seven feet in thickness. The Daniel Ream farm, on the southwest quarter of section

4, has been fully described by Prof. M. C. Reed in his "Geological Survey of Ohio." The Stutz mine was opened on section 23, where a four-foot vein was disclosed and has long been worked. The Henning mine, on the Adam Henning place, is five feet in thickness. There is considerable iron ore in this section of the county.

The coal mines of Franklin township in 1877 were those of William Harrison, a mile and a half southwest of Fredericksburg. The roof of this mine was yellow sand stone. The coal was reached at the depth of eighty feet. The James Finley mines, in this township, are located on section 22, about two and a half miles from Fredericksburg, and were operated in 1878 by Asaph Rumbaugh. The coal was struck at the depth of seventy-five feet from the surface. Another Franklin township' mine was Charles Story's, which vein was three feet in thickness. Coal was also found at an early date on the Miller land in section 34, but it was too thin a vein to be profitably mined. On the Jacob and Israel Franks farm, in section 35, another mine was developed, in connection with a stratum of fire clay that was used for many years in the Wooster pottery works, and fire brick were also made of this clay which was thought superior to any in the county at that day.

The coal measure in Clinton, Canaan and Wooster townships is somewhat limited, says Jeffries in his article written in 1878. The absence of paying cjuantities of coal at and near the city of Wooster is easily accounted for when one considers the formation of the sub-strata of the earth at this point.

Since the writings on the coal measure of Wayne county in 1878, there have been many developments and great has been the tonnage of good bituminous coal from the scores of mines in the vicinity, but more especially in the townships named and carefully described by bim, and also confirmed by the state geologists.