Worcester County, Massachusetts - Chapter 36: Fitchburg, 1889

Descriptive

Fitchburg, the smaller of the two cities of Worcester County, and, after Worcester, the most important place in the county, is pleasantly situated among hills and valleys, and is about twenty-four miles north of its sister city. The township is of average size, being about six and a half miles from north to south, and about four and a half miles from east to west. A small stream, the north branch of the Nashua River, formed by the confluence of several brooks in the southwesterly part of the town, curves to the north and emerges near the southeast corner ; and along its course most of the population and all the business interests of the city are located.

The thickly populated and business centre - the city proper - lies a little southeast of the centre of the township. West and south of the city proper are the villages of West Fitcliburg, Rockville and Crockerville, and east and south are Traskville, East Fitchburg and South Fitchburg. The outlying portions of the township are but sparsely inhabited, being mainly utilized for farming purposes, though considerable areas are covered with woods or used simply for pasturage. The township is bounded on the north by Ashby, on the east by Lunenburg and Leominster, on the south by Leominster and Westminster, and on the west by Westminster and a small part of Ashburnhara.

Any detailed description of the city and its outlying villages would, of course, be beyond the scope of this sketch. As has been stated, the city lits in a valley along the stream. The territory on the south side of the stream, or, " across the river," as it is called, is occupied almost entirely by dwelling-houses, while the business portion is on the north side close to the river bank ; and the hills a little farther north and the more level land to the east are thickly covered dwellings, many of which are beautiful and costly. Main Street, the jirincipal business street in the city, follows for the most part the course of the stream, its general direction being east and west. On this street are a number of important manufacturing establishments, many substantial business blocks, several public buildings, hotels, handsome churches, and towards the upper end a few tine private residences. From its beginning it is paved with stone as far as the City Hall ; and a horse railroad track runs through almost its entire length. There are three parks on this street - the " Lower Common," or Railroad Park, Monument Park and the " Upper Common," - situated nearly equidistant from one another- The first of these is at the junction of Main and Water Streets, opposite the handsome and commodious Union Passenger Station, and is a small enclosure provided with a band-stand. Monument Park is directly in front of the County Court-House and nearly opposite the Wallace Library and Art Building, while flanking it on the east is Christ Church, a beautiful and picturesque stone building. Taken in connection with these three fine edifices, this jiark is a most inviting spot and much frequented. In its centre is an expensive and massive soldiers' monument of granite surmounted b)- three bronze statues. Four brass fieldpieces, secured from the government through the eSbrts of the late Hon. Alvah Crocker, and mounted in regulation style, are placed one at each corner, and the whole park is enclosed by a substantial iron fence upon a base of hammered granite. The " Upper Common " is located towards the upper or western end of Main Street, and is larger than either of the other parks. It has recently been laid out and beautified, and bids fair to rival Monument Park in the favor of the citizens. It is a parallelogram in shape and entirely surrounded by shade-trees. Near the lower end is a very ornamental band-stand, from which the Fitchburg Military Band often gives even- ing concerts during the summer. The band also gives concerts from the band-stand iu the Lower Common, and the musie furnished by this justlycelebrated organization always calls together a large concourse of citizens. Opposite the head of the Upper Common is the old First Parish (Unitarian) Church, astructureinterestingfrom an historical point of view; and flanking the Common on its northerly side are several handsome residences. At the easterly terminus of the horse railroad, near the Lunenburg line, are the fair-grounds and trotting park, formerly the property of the Worcester North Agricultural Society. In 1887 this property was purchased by a number of gentlemen, forming an organization known as the Fitchburg Park Company, for the purpose of improving and beautifying it for use as a park.

The upper portion of Main Street is considerably wider than the lower part, and is abundantly supplied with shade-trees. From Putnam Street to the American House, Main Street is altogether too narrow for the tide of business which daily passes through it, and without dnubt it will be alisolutely necessary for the city to construct a new street before long to relieve the pressure on Main Street. This portion of the street is entirely without shade-trees, or even room for them to grow, and it is becoming more and more evident every year that a great mistake was made iu not reserving a more generous width for the street.

Fitchburg is pre-eminently a busy and thriving city, and probably no other place of its size can boast of a greater diversity of industries. The little stream running through the town was a source of great annoyance to the early settlers. The spring floods carried away their bridges, and the river was considered a nuisance and probable bar to the growth of the town. But coming years showed the folly of these fears. Dams were constructed, the water controlled, and manufacturers on a small scale began to locate on the banks of the formerly detested stream. Thus was a seeming curse turned into an evident blessing, for from those few mills have sprung the present great manufacturing concerns located here. Now the stream, whether swollen by the floods of spring, or diminished to a mere rivulet by the drought of summer, is allowed to pursue its way for the most part unheeded by the busy manufacturer. Water-power is still used to some extent, but steam is now the chief motor tha' propels the machinery, looms and spindles that daily pour forth products which go to the markets, not of this country alone, but of the world. A description of these large manufacturing establishments, of which our citizens are justly proud, must be deferred to a subseqiient portion of this sketch.

It is evident that ample transportation facilities are necessary in order to distribute all these varied products, and Fitchburg certainly possesses such facilities to a marked degree. When, about half a century ago, the Hon. Alvah Crocker proposed and advocated a railroad direct from Boston to Fitchburg, the idea met with great opposition and ridicule. Mr. Crocker persevered in .spite of all obstacles, the railroad became an accomplished fact, and the immense benefits arising from its construction are realized by the citizens of to-day. It has grown into the great Hoosac Tunnel Line and afl'ords direct communication, not with Boston alone, but with the great cities of the West. Other railroads have since been built which give direct communication with all important points. An elegant and commodious passenger-station, built about ten years ago, is shared by all these roads in common, and there are large freight depots, car-shops, enginehouses, etc., which will bo described further on.

Fitchburg is by no means behind the times as regards the adoption of all methods and means by which the wealth, prosperity and enlightenment of her citizens may be advanced, their business facilitated, and their lives and property protected from danger or destruction. The streets of the city are kept clean and in good condition, and are, for tlie most part, well lined with shade-trees ; a pure and very abundant water supply has been provided at large expense ; school-houses are numerous and, as a rule, commodious and well-ventilated; a thoroughly organized and wellequipped Fire Department, in connection with the tirealarm telegraph and numerous hydrants, aflbrds the best possible protection against serious loss by fire; the efficient police force keeps the city singularly free from theft and murder. All these departments are under the direct control of the city, and their eft'ective work reflects great credit on the authorities, both in past and present time. In addition to these advantages of a strictly municipal character, there are others no less important to the welfare of the city. There are numerous churches, substantial and inviting, both ^xternally and internally, whose pulpits are occupied by good pastors ; there is an efficient telephone service with many subscribers ; the streets are well lighted with electricity, furnished by the Wachusett Electric Light Company, and in some portions with gas, furnished by the Fitchburg Gas Company ; the Fitchburg Street Railway Company provides convenient means of transit from one end of the city to the other, and the government has established the letter-carrier system here.

Having seen, in a general way, what man has accomplished towards making Fitchburg an attractive and desirable place of residence, let us devote a little space to the investigation of what nature has done to beautify and make pleasant this city among the hills. The north branch of the Nashua, which has been previously mentioned as traversing the southerly portion of the township, is formed by the confluence of several brooks having their origin in ponds in Westminster and Ashburnham. These brooks, uniting in the southwesterly part of the township, form the only stream of any size in Fitchburg. There is nothing particularly beautiful or romantic about it at the present time, except in a few spots where the hand of man has not encroached too ruthlessly upon its original condition. Many bridges, both for railroad and public use, have been built across it, and numerous dams have been erected along its course, which form small ponds that lack the element of natural beauty. It is rather singular that, while almost every one of the towns in this vicinity possesses at least one large natural sheet of water, there is nothing of the sort in Fitchburg. So the citizens have to content themselves with brooks, of which there are several in town that are very picturesque and well worth visiting. One of these is Falulah Brook, in the northerly part of the town, towards Ashby. Its course is through wooded country, and in many places it has worn for itself a channel through the solid rock. In spots it has hollowed out deep basins in the rock, forming quiet, transparent pools; and again it dashes down some rocky incline, producing fascinating cascades. This brook crosses the township diagonally, and that part of it in the southeasterly corner has received the name of Baker's Brook. It receives several tributaries, prominent among which are Scott and Shattuck Brooks, whence is obtained the water supply of the city, and Pearl Plill Brook.

In the southerly part of Fitchburg is another brook, quite as interesting and picturesque as Falulah, and certainly better appreciated, from the fact of its being easy of access. The name of it is Wanoosnac Brook. During the past century the spelling of its name has undergone considerable change. Rev. Peter Whitney, in his "History of Worcester County," published in 1793, speaks of it as " Wauhnoosnok Brook." In Torrey's " History of Fitchburg," published in 1836, it is spelled Wanoosnock. By some, at the present time, it is called Monoosnoc. However much the nomenclature may have changed, it is certain that its natural beauty has not followed suit. For some distance it flows along beside the Old Turnpike Road, unmolested by the hand of man, at times hidden among the trees and again appearing in open spaces, tumbling and splashing along its rocky bed. It is especially well worth visiting in the early summer, when it is full of water. At one point, where it flows in a deep and precipitous gully, a massive stone dam was built many years ago. From some imperfection in its construction, the dam never could be made to hold water, and the brook, which, as well as the dam itself, is almost entirely concealed by trees that have grown up since man's futile attempt to obstruct it, flows noisily beneath the heavy stone-work as if filled with defiant joy at its retained fieedom. A little farther above is another dam, built with better skill, which has, for over half a century, been occupied as the site of a saw-mill.

The most marked topographical features in Fitchburg are Rollstone Hill, southwest of the city, and Pearl Hill, to the northeast. The former is a rounded mass of solid gneiss, attaining an elevation of about four hundred feet above the river. Whitney thus alludes to it in his history : " A little southwest of the meeting-house is a high, rocky hill, covered principally with pine, called Bollstone Hill." At the present time the pines have disappeared. Until a few years ago two old and weather-beaten specimens, the sole survivors of former times, were standing like ancient sentinels upon the summit of the hill ; but age, combined with the poor quality and small amount of soil and the fierce winds of winter, caused them to succumb, and they fell some years ago, one soon after the other. The writer well remembers the feeling of sadness that arose within him when these aged landmarks were prostrated. The lower portion of their trunks bore a vast collection of autographs, for probably almost every boy who climbed to the top of the hill, for years previous to their fall, and was lucky enough to own a knife, carved his initials on one or the other of them. The top of the hill is now practically bare rock, though the thin soil in spots supports a scanty and stunted growth of bushes. The sides of the hill have a tolerably thick layer of soil, and are covered with a growth of small trees, mostly chestnut, oak and maple. Excellent building stone is obtained from this hill, and the supply seems to be practically inexhaustible. Extensive quarries have been worked for a great many years without any v^ry appreciable diminution in the size of the hill, unless it be on the southwesterly side.

The use of Rollstone granite is by no means confined to Fitchburg alone. It is shipped to various places, and there are several buildings in Boston constructed entirely of it. Some portions of the rock contain extraneous minerals, and fine specimens of beryl and tourmaline have been obtained here in times past. On the very summit of the hill is " the Boulder," a rounded mass of rock, fortyfive feet in circumference, and probably weighing one hundred tons. Its composition is totally unlike that of any rock formation within thirty miles, and it is certain that this boulder was conveyed toitspresent position by ice. Glacial strice are plainly visible beneath it where the surface of the bed-rock has not weathered. The fine view of the city and surrounding country that is obtainable from the summit of Rollstone is well worth the slight trouble necessary to climb the hill by some of the stone roads and paths. At the feet, so to speak, of the observer perched upon the top of the boulder, are the numerous tracks of the Hoosac Tunnel Line, with trains moving upon them almost constantly ; just beyond is the river, with the city stretching along lis course and forming almost a complete semi-circle; behind the city rise the hills, culminating in the beetling brow of Pearl Hill to the northeast. Big Watatic, in Ashburnham, overtops his brethren in the northwest. In clear weather the sharp summit of grand Monadnock can al.so Vje seen in that direction. The rounded outline of Wachusett, about twelve miles distant, fills the southern horizon, and to the east and southeast are the towns of Lunenburg and Leominster, a few miles away. Portions of other towns can also be seen, and the undulating character of the country in all directions presents a pleasing spectacle to the eye.

Pearl Hill is somewhat higher than Rollstone, and on one side rises abruptly in the form of a precipice. It is compo-ed of a micaceous rock of rather peculiar appearance, which, a century ago, encouraged the hope that there were " valuable mines, either of gold or silver, or both, imbosomed there." The Rev. Peter Whitney goes on to say that " attempts have heretofore been made to possess them ; but for want of wealth or perseverance in the undertakers, they have not obtained the desiderata." It is exceedingly improbable that capitalists will care to expend money in searching after gold or silver in the bowels of Pearl Hill. Rollstone is a much more profitable investment. A fine view can be obtained from the summit of Pearl Hill, and a drive on the Pearl Hill Road is much in vogue with citizens and visitors. West of Pearl Hill and north of Rollstone is the high land where the water supply of the city is stored. There are four reservoirs located at different levels, the highest being Overlook, about four hundred feet above the river, whose embankment and gate-house are quite conspicuous.

There are many pleasant drives in and about the city. The suburban roads are, for the most part, well made and kept in good condition, though the hilly character of the entire surface of the township renders very considerable washouts inevitable during the spring months, and causes more or less expense annually for repairs. The soil is generally quite fertile, and there are many valuable farms in the town. Woods are abundant in many parts of the town and consist of all the varieties of trees indigenous to this section. Fruit-trees flourish and there are many fine orchards in and around Fitchburg. Small fruits and garden produce are raised in great abundance with ordinary care.

Much more might be said descriptive of Fitchburg and its environs. In the foregoing the writer has intended simply to speak of facts that will not appear elsewhere, or to touch on matters that will be further elaborated in subsequent portions of thi.s sketch. We will conclude this section by giving a few statistics in regard to population and agricultural interests. According to the census of 1885, the population at that time was 15,375. Since then there has been a very considerable increase in the number of inhabitants, and probably 19,000 would not be far from the correct figures at the present time (1888). A few of the agricultural statistics gleaned from the census of 1885 are as follows : there were then 209 farms in town, 3676 acres of cultivated land, 5850 acres of pasturage and 5134 acres of woodland. The aggregate value of agricultural products was $294,558, the largest items

From these few statistics one can see that, though Filchburg is not given very much to agricultural pursuits, she makes a very respectable showing in that line.