Worcester County, Massachusetts - Chapter 198, 1889

Manufacturing And Mechanical Industries

Boots and Shoes. - From Caleb A. Wall's Reminiscences we learn that Captain Palmer Goulding, a cordwainer, came to Worcester just previous to the first organization of the town, and built a house on the east of the Common, where his son Palmer, Jr., and grandson Daniel afterwards lived. They also carried on the business of tanning, shoe-making, making malt, curing hams, etc. Their place of business was in front of their dwelling, and occupied ground between, what are now Front, Mechanic, Church and (Spring Streets.

The embargoand War of 1812 greatly stimulated the cordvvainers, who began to make boots and shoes in quantities in anticipation of the wants of their customers, and when a few dozen pairs had accumulated, they were put in saddle-bags and taken to market, principally Bristol, R. I., the first wholesale boot and shoe market in the country, it being a sea-port town.

At this time the bottoms of all boots and shoes were sewed on ; putting them on with pegs was an invention of a later date, and very greatly reduced the cost ; this improvement aided materially in the development of the industry. Among the first to adopt it was Joseph Walker, of Hopkinton, Mass.

The next step in the development of the boot and shoe industry was for the makers of leather to sell it to merchants in the larger towns and cities, who, in turn, sold to the shoemakers, and they, in course of time, paid for it out of the product, in boots and shoes, which were sold by the leather dealers to the jobbers in Bristol, Providence, Boston and New York. These cities held the trade for many years.

The next step in the development was the separation of the leather business from boot and shoe manufacturing, the firms dealing in the leather requiring money payment for leather and the boot and shoe manufacturers selling their product to firms dealing in boots and shoes only, who, in turn, sold them, usually by the case of sixty pairs of shoes and twelve pair of boots, to country store-keepers, who from that time have kept them in stock as universally as drygoods or groceries.

Among the first towns in which this business was begun was Hopkinton ; then in the adjoining town of Milford ; and about the same time in several other eastern towns; shortly afterwards in Grafton, where Oliver Ward learned his trade of Clark Brown. Mr. Ward started in business in North Brookfieldin 1810, and from the history of North Brookfield we learn that " he made his own pegs; maple logs were sawed in sections of the proper length, which were then split with a long knife and the splint divided into pegs. The next improvement was to cut the points of the pegs in the blocks with a knife and mallet before splitting ; and the next was to cut the points with the tail gouge driven like a carpenter's plane; and the next to do the whole by machinery.''

Tyler Batcheller, of Brookfield, also learned the shoemaker's trade in Grafton, and, returning to Brookfield, commenced business in 1819, with his brother Ezra, who learned his trade of Oliver Ward. Worcester was more than a quarter of a century behind these towns in the boot and shoe business, but has to-day an important place in this industry.

Previous to 1813 the only man engaged in boot and shoemaking in Worcester was John Tyler Hubbard, whose shop was on Front Street, corner of Spring.

He would hardly be called a manufacturer at the present day, as he did business in a very small way, and, when he had accumulated a few dozen pairs, would take them to Bristol, R. I., for sale.

In February, 1818, Earle & Chase had a quantity ofgoai-skin leather dressed in the manner of black kid, which they were having manufactured into shoes and boots.

In 1821 Benjamin B. Otis commenced business near the harness shop of Enos Tucker, and continued until 1850, part of the time with John C. Otis, as B. B. Otis & Co. In 1850 C. H. Fitch became a partner, the firm-name being Otis, Fitch & Co. The same year B. B. Otis retired, and a new firm was organized of Fitch & Otis, which continued until I860. For three years from 1863 the firm was Dike & Fitcli, and from that time until 1886 the business was conducted under the name of C. H. Fitch & Co.

In 1828 Scott & Smith were manufacturing ladies' shoes of various kinds, nearly opposite the Central meeting-house, at the sign of "The Golden Slipper," where they made ladies' kid and double prunella walking shoes and pumps.

In 1834 Charles Wolcot and Nathaniel Stone had a shop three doors south of the Centre School-house, under the ^Egi/s printing-ofiice, where they manufactured boots and shoes, also ladies' kid, morocco and satin shoes. In the same year Thomas Howe & Co., at the head of Front Street, advertised for eight or ten journeymen to make bootees for the Military Academy at West Point.

In 1835 T. S. Stone began to manufacture in Washington Square, and in that year and the year following, he took a premium for his boots at the Cattle Sliow.

In 1839 he admitted as a partner, Ansel Lakin, who w.as with him but a short time. Mr. Stone continued with various partners until 1864, when Samuel Brown became associated with him. In 1868 A. G. Walker entered the firm, and the business was conducted under the name of Stone, Walker & Brown. In 1871 the firm was again changed, Messrs. Brown and Walker retiring and Mr. Stone's sons being admitted. The business was continued until Mr. Stone's death, in 1873.

George and Ebenezer H. Bowen came from Leicester, and commenced the currying of leather, as early as 1836, from which time for twenty years, they were in addition, directly and indirectly connected with the manufacture of boots and shoes.

In 1837 Ansel Lakin began in a small way in the village of Tatnuck, and was afterwards in partnership with Timothy S. Stone. In 1841 he was doing business with Bemis & Williams, and after this he continued with various partners for nearly twenty years.

In 1838 Wm. A. Draper came from Spencer and started in business in Pleasant Street. In 1842 Otis Corbet was admitted to the firm and they continued until 1847, when Mr. Draper went out and the business was conducted by Mr. Corbet alone. In 1850 Mr. Draper returned, and for two years the firm was Wm. A. Draper & Co.

In 1842 E. H. Bowen and William Barker began to manufacture as E. H. Bowen & Co. Barker retired in 1844, and Bowen formed a partnership with T. S. Stone, under the firm-name of Bowen & Stone, which was dissolved in 1848. After this, Bowen continued alone until 1857.

In 1843 Joseph Walker came to Worcester from Hopkinton, and began business in a wooden building in Front Street. In 1844 the firm of Barker & Walker was formed, occupying a building at the corner of Main Street and Lincoln Square. Mr. Barker retired from the firm in 1846. Joseph Walker continued alone until 1851, when his eldest son, J. H., being of age, was admitted, and the firm-name was Joseph Walker &. Co., their place of business being at Lincoln Square. G. M. and A. C. Walker, two other sons, were adraited to partnership on their becoming of age. In 1862 this firm dissolved, J. Walker and his son, A. C. Walker, continuing under the old name until 1871.

In 1845 Cyrus, William R. and George W. Bliss moved their business from Milford to Worcester, and continued until 1853. George W. Bliss then succeeded to the business and moved into the Merrifield Building in Union Street, retiring in 1857.

In 1846, on the dissolution of the partnership of Barker & Walker, Wm. Barker commenced business on his own account, and was alone until 1850, when Courtland Newton was admitted, remaining in the firm till 1853. In 1857 Newton Penniman was

In 1849 Rufus Wesson, Jr., came to Worcester from Shrewsbury, and was in business in Harding's Block, 45 Front Street, until 1873. His son, J. E. Wesson, began alone in 1868, and is now doing a large business in Mulberry Street.

In 1851 W. A. S. Smythe commenced the manufacture of shoes at the corner of Union and Market Streets. In 1860 his brother, Robert L. Smythe, joined him. They gave up manufacturing in 1872, being then situated in Foster Street.

In 1853 C. O. Houghton began the manufacture of boots at Lincoln Square. In 1857 he admitted his brother. Alba Houghton, into the partnership of C. C. Houghton & Co., and continued with him uatil

1864, when Alba Houghton retired. In 1864 the partnership of Houghton & Heywood was formed and was dissolved in 1867. H. B. Adams was then admitted, and the firm of Houghton & Adams continued for one year.

Mr. Houghton was alone until 1871, when Wm. Warren became a partner, the firm-name being C. C. Houghton & Co. Mr. Warren retired in 1884. At present the firm consists of C. C. Houghton, F. N. Houghton and E. W. Warren, and is known as C. C. Houghton & Co., which is situated in Houghton's Block, corner of Front St. and Salem Square.

In 1853 E. N. Childs came to Worcester from Millbury, and engaged in business with Albert Gould for one year. In 1854 Albert S. Brown became a partner. They did business as Childs & Brown until 1857, when Mr. Brown retired, and A. G. Walker was admitted into the firm of E. N. Childs & Co. In 1862 Mr. Walker retired, and Mr. Childs continued under the same firm-name until 1881. During the last few years his sons were interested with him in the business.

In 1855 Luther Stowe came to Worcester from Grafton and commenced business in Mechanic Street, soon after which he formed a partnership with E. A. Muzzy, as E. A. Muzzy & Co. The firm dissolved in

1865. Mr. Stowe and Mr. J. F. Davenport, under the title of L. Stowe & Co., commenced business in Washington Square. In 1875 Mr. Davenport retired, and the business was continued under the firm-name of Luther Stowe & Co. In 1880 they moved to a factory in Grafton Street, and still continue there under the old firm-name, Mr. Stowe's son now being a partner.

Hudson retired in 1862, and Mr. Cummings continued alone until 1866, when he left Worcester. He returned in 1880, and with his partners, E. H. Hurlbert and D. E. Spencer, built aud occupied the factory in King Street, now occupied by them.

E. A. Muzzy and Luther Stowe commenced manufacturing, in 1857, as E. A. Muzzy & Co., continuing | until 1865, when Mr. Stowe went out and Mr. Muzzy retired from manufacturing, the business being continued by G. L. Battelle and F. A. Muzzy, under the old name of E. A. Mnzzy & Co., until 1875.

Also, in 1860, H. B. Fay came to Worcester from Shrewsbury. He continued to manufacture until 1887, most of the time under the firm-name of H. B. Fay & Co.

In 1862 J. H. Walker commenced business in Eaton Place. In 1864 George M. Walker was admitted, the firm-name being changed to J. H. & G. M. Walker. They afterwards built a factory in Front Street and one in Eaton Place. In 1870 they built and moved to a factory in Water Street, the capacity of which was doubled in 1879. G. M. Walker retired in 1870. Samuel Davenport took his place, and in 1880 H. Y. Simpson was also admitted, the firm-name always remaining J. H. & G. M. Walker. The specialty of this firm was the widely-known " Walker boot." They retired from business January, 1888.

In 1863 J. W. Brigbam & Co., who had been manufacturing for three or four years in a small building near the junction of Main and Southbridge Streets, built and moved intc^ the factory in Southbridge Street, where they now are.

In 1864 Bigelow & Trask commenced the manufacture of shoes in Austin Street. In 1866 they were incorporated under the name of the Bay State Shoe and Leather Company, and have been doing business under that name ever since at the same place. The headquarters of this corporation is in New York, J. Munyan, before referred to as manufiicturing in 1847, is vice-president and Worcester agent.

In 1865 E. H. and O. N. Stark formed a partnership under the name of E. H. Stark & Co , and have continued without change, and are at the present time located in Main Street, above Myrtle.

In 1866 Simon J. Woodbury, of Sutton, moved a building from that place to the site of the shop now occupied by Goddard, Fay & Stone, and he, with others, manufactured for a short time. In 1866 Rawson & Linnell moved their business from West Boy Iston to Worcester, bringing with them twenty-two families and commenced manufacturing in Pleasant Street, near Main, under the name of E, C. Linnell & Co. In 1868 they built a factory on the site of the Woodbury building in Austin Street. Mr. Linnell withdrew in 1869, and a new firm was organized under the name of D. G. Rawson & Co., consisting of D. G.

C. C. Houghton & Co. and commenced business on his own account under the name of Alba Houghton & Co. and continued until 1882. In 1867, on the dissolution of the firm of Houghton & Heywood, S. R. Heywood went into business for himself and was alone until 1873, when Oscar Phillips was admitted as a jjarlner, and business was done under the firmname of S. R. Heywood & Co. In 1880 they moved to their new factory in Winter Street, and in 1884 were incorporated under the name of the Heywood Boot and Shoe Company. The specialty of this corpcr.ation is the widely-known " Wachusett Boot," and fine sewed shoes. ,

In 1871, A.G. Walker and Samuel Brown withdrew from the firm of Stone, Walker & Brown, and, commencing under the name of Walker & Brown, continued until 1879, when Mr. Walker retired. Mr. Brown went on alone under the same firm-name, and is at present doing business as Walker & Brown, in Barton Place, his son being a partner.

In 1871, Whitcomb, Dadmun & Stowe commenced in Southbridge Street, and continued for four years, when the firm dissolved, and C. C. & C. H. Whitcomb formed a new partnership, under the name of Whitcomb Brothers, and were manufacturing for nine years, when the firm was again dissolved. They were succeeded by C. C. Whitcomb and E. B. Miles, under the name of Whitcomb & Miles, who are now manufacturing in Shrewsbury Street.

In 1872, H. B. Adams, H. W. Hastings and A. C. Walker, began business in the block corner of Allen Court, second story, and then moved to Cherry Street, and, under the name of Adams & Hastings, continued until 1878.

In 1875, J. F. Davenport left the firm of L. Stowe & Co., and he, with Alfred W. Long, started in Eaton Place as Davenport & Long, continuing until 1885.

In 1875, G. L. Battelle, under the name of G. L. Battelle & Co., succeeded E. A. Muzzy & Co., and engaged in the manufacture of a cloth-boot, called " Alaskas," and custom boots and shoes. He is situated in Mechanic Street.

In 1878, J. U. Green, coming from Spencer, began business in Cherry Street, under the name of J. U. Green & Co., afterwards moving to Front Street, where he continued in business until 1883.

D. G. Rawson & Co., C. S. Goddard, W. B. Fay and A. M. Stone, formed a new company, under the name of Goddard, Fay & Stone, and continued in business until January 1, 1889, when they were succeeded by Goddard, Stone & Co. They have always occupied the factory where they are now located in Austin Street, the capacity of which was doubled by them in 188C.

In 1883, Bemis & Fletcher began business in Mechanic Street, under the name of the Waverly Shoe Company, and are at present located in Front Street. Their specialty is the " Waverly School Shoe."

In 1888, F. W. Blacker, who was with the firm of J. H. & G. M. Walker from 1865 until their retirement, succeeded to the business, leasing the old Walker factory, in Eaton Place, with its machinery, tools and patterns, and continues to make the widelycelebrated Walker Boot."

Until the year 1868 nearly all the boots and shoes manufactured in Worcester were hand-made, machinery, excepting the sewing-machine, being little used.

Worcester manufacturers were always slow in adopting boot and shoe machinery, and they did not use it until long after it had been adopted in other places. From 1850 lo 1868 a large proportion of the boots and shoes were taken to the adjoining towns of West Boylston, Oakdale, Holden, Grafton, Millbury and Auburn to have the bottom stock put on ; and then they were brought back and finished in the factories in Worcester.

Since 1868 the quantity thus bottomed has steadily decreased. There was at one time a great prejudice among consumers against goods made by machinery hand-made work being considered far superior, and for the first few years after the introduction of the pegging-machine, it was absolutely necessary that the manufacturer "sand oft'" from the bottom of every boot the impressions made by the machine, for fear the boots might be rejected by the customer. To such an extent was this feeling carried, that, as late as 1870 large quantities of goods were sold stamped " Warranted Hand-made," on which nearly the whole work was done by machinery.

There is probably no industry where the improvement in manufacturing has been so radical and complete as in this. The only department where there has not been a great improvement is in that of the upper leather cutting and treeing. The cutting of upper leather is done by hand, and probably always will be. Treeing is done substantially as it was when boots were first made, and, although machines have been invented for doing this work, they have never been considered satisfactory.

By the use of machinery in its present perfected state, goods can be produced that are more uniform than any that can be made by hand. A striking feature in the manufacture of boots and shoes is the division ot labor. As far back as 1840 all who called themselves shoemakers were able to take leather in the side and complete a perfect boot or shoe. In these days, in the large factories an ordinary boot will go through the. hands of fifty or sixty difi'erent persons, the work in each room being minutely divided, and few of the men being skilled in any but their particular part. This is one reason why boots and shoes are produced and sold so cheaply at the present time. Each man takes up that branch to which he is best adapted, and continual practice 'makes him an adept. The cost of labor on a case of twelve pairs of ordinary heavy boots, at the present time, is about five dollars. To produce the same number of boots by hand, by old methods, would take the wages of two weeks.

The making of lasts, patterns and dies now used, has been so far reduced to a science that one can go into a first-class boot and shoe store and procure boots or shoes that will fit him perfectly.

Worcester is practically what is called a boot town, comparatively few shoes being made, and the only factories to-day that devote themselves exclusively to the manufacture of women's, misses' and children's shoes are those of J. E. Wesson and the Waverly Shoe Company, which are now making what is called " Medium Grade " and " Weight Shoes."

Heavy shoes, called "brogans," and plow-shoes are made, but these are considered about the same as boots, and are usually made in the same factories by the same workmen. Efforts have been made by various manufacturers to introduce men's fine shoes, which have partially succeeded, though not sufficiently to allow of Worcester being classed as a shoe town.

In treating of the boot and shoe industry, it is not generally understood that the manufacture of boots and shoes is distinct. A workman is seldom found who can do equally well on each kind of work. The manufacture of ladies' fine shoes, such as are made in Haverhill and Lynn, has never been attempted here. In order to do this it would be necessary to obtain the help from those towns, and this has always been found unsatisfactory. Many attempts to make boots in shoe towns have failed, and the fact is fully recognized.

The manufacture of boots and shoes is now, and has been for years, one of the leading industries of Worcester, and has been uniformly successful. This is not due to the manufacturers alone. In most of the large boot and shoe towns the workmen are the unsettled population. In Worcester it is not so. Nearly all are permanent residents, a large number owning their homes, and, even in times of great business depression, few leave the city. To this fact must be largely attributed the absence of strikes. While other places have been visited with labor troubles, but two strikes of any consequence have been known here, one in 1867 and one in 1887.

It is to the credit of employer and employes that they have considered their interests mutual, thus enabling the differences between them to be readily and satisfactorily adjusted.

It is worthy of notice that, with scarcely an exception, none of the present or past manufacturers of Worcester have had aoy educational advantages superior to those of the common school. They nearly all learned their trade at the bench, and to this, in a great measure, must be attributed their success.

Being able to do any part of the work themselves, they are competent to judge if the work is properly done by others. They have proved themselves to be enterprising and worthy citizens, and have held a full share of the honorable positions in the gift of their fellow-townsmen. They have been represented in the directories of the various banks, in the Common Council, Board of Aldermen, State Legislature, and will be represented in the Fifty-first United States Congress. '

The Bigelow Heeling-Machine. - This machine is an improvement upon the McKay machine, with which its interests are now identified. Mr. H. H. Bigelow patented the heel in 1869, and the machine in 1870.

The advantages conferred by .this machine are manifold. By means of it all the odd or " V "-shaped pieces of sole leather, which were formerly considered worthless, are utilized. These are joined or fitted closely together, under a solid upper lift, and fed to the machine, which consists of a revolving cylinder, making one revolution in four motions. First, the heel is pressed ; then, a quarter revolution and the heel is pricked for the nails; then, another quarter revolution and the nails are driven ; with the final quarter revolution the completed heel is ibrced from the cylinder.

The machine not only utilizes pieces of leather of every kind and shape, but takes all heels, whether whole, half or quarter lifts, and saves one good lift on each boot or shoe heel, since the leather which would otherwise be trimmed off is, by reason of the equal pressure upon the heel from all sides, evenly and smoothly forced into the heel, elevating it, and making a difference of one entire lift in height. A good lift is worth about two cents.

The machine not only makes pieced heels, but all styles, heights, shapes and sizes, and is undoubtedly the most valuable contribution that has been made to this industry, since while it effects the greatest saving it accomplishes the most laborious part of the work. With it, a man and boy can heel five thousand pairs of boots or shoes in a day, effecting a saving of the wages of forty-eight additional operatives per day.

The amount of royalty upon a pair of boots or shoes is one-half of one cent, but by the saving of leather, and the saving of wages, the seller is not only able to dispose of his goods at a less price, but the durability of the boot or shoe is increased tenfold by means of this improvement in the method of manufacture.

No boot or shoe manufacturer could carry on a large business successfully without the Bigelow Heeling-Machine, and the fact that he could not otherwise compete, proves conclusively that the purchaser is the person most largely benefited.

A. H. Dean, in 1866, established tlie business of manufacturing shoe-heels from upper leather remnants bought at the boot and shoe factories. He was among the first in tlie country to engage in this occupation as a distinct business. Heels had been made for the most part of sole leather in shoe factories. Most of this work is done by hand. The heel pieces are cut by dies. The business has so grown that there are now two hundred concerns in the country in this a|ieiial line of work. From twelve hands Mr. Dean's business has grown into the employment of one hundred and fifty.

In March, 1861, T. K. Earle & t!o. sold their belt manufacturing tools to Gratou & Knight, a firm formed March 11, 1861, and composed of H. C. (iraton and Joseph A. Knight, located in Harding's Block, oil Front Street. They started their tannery on the Bloomingdale Road in 1867, and now put in about six hundred hides per week. They use oak bark, which is ground in Virginia. The belting is taken in strips from the tannery to the Front Street sliop, each hide aftbrding three strips suitable for this ]iurpose. This is at present the only tannery in the city. In the ujjper story of the Bloomingdale Building they manufacture inner-soles and slip-taps, and heels of all kinds, made from sole leather. In this way the shoulders and bellies are used. They also make sole-leather counters for boots and shoes, mouldeil and flat couulers of all kinds, straps for looms and pickers and for harvesting-machines. They started in Foster Street with three hands, and at that tioie had a sho|i in Lynn ; that branch of the business was later removed to Worcester. They now employ ninety hands, and ship part of their product to England. There are but four larger concerns in the belt business in the country.

Samuel Mawhinney, in company with Mr. A. P. Richardson, commenced the manufacture of lasts January 1, 1857, in Merrifield's Building. At that time the lasts were turned out in the rough in Canada and finished in Worcester. In 1868 Mr. Richardson retired, and in 1869 Mr. Mawhinney bought land ou Church Street and built his present shop. About that time Mr. R. L. Uolbcrt became a partner. The business has constantly increased, and now employs from twenty-five to thirty hands. One hundred thousand pairs of lasts are made annually. The material used is rock maple. In addition to the last business, this company makes boot and shoe trees.

Die MANUFAcrufiERS. - Mr. A. M. Howe began the die business in Westboro' in the year 1857, and moved to Worcester in ]S6i(. In 1861 he had a contract from the Government to make primers for guns. Mr. Howe makes boot and shoe, envelope and harness dies; in fact, cutting dies of almost every descriptioa. He formerly bought his die stock from the Goes', but now prepares it under a patented process of his own.

Davis, Savells & Co. is the <mly other concern in the city which makes dies. They commenced business in 1870. Mr. Davis was fornjerly in the employ of A. M. Howe.