Polk County, Minnesota - Chapter 7: Early Historical Data After 1850, 1916 (part 2 of 2)

In the matter of railroad transportation and traffic Polk County is again most fortunate. Two trunk lines, the Great Northern and the Northern Pacific, including branch lines radiating from Crookston, numbering eight lines of rail trackage in the city in all, furnish Crookston with an admirable service. A large number of traveling salesmen have made their homes in Crookston, finding it a most satisfactory point from which to reach the trade in their territory. The service given by this system reaches more advantageously to all sections of the county than the service found in any other county in the eastern half of the Valley.

Nature has endowed Polk County not only with agricultural and commercial possibilities, but also with attraction in her physical beauty. In driving through the country, one enjoys both the free sweep of the rolling prairies, and the frequent groves and many beauty-spots discovered in the woods along the picturesque river banks. Down in the southeastern part of the county is situated an attractive group of lakes. Most of them are a little remote from the com-

The largest of tlie group, however. Maple Lake, so named from the many maple trees growing about its shores, is only two miles from the town of Jleutor, and has become a noted summer resort for this section of the country. Maple Lake is about seven miles long and varies in width from one and one-half miles at the "big end" to one-third of a mile at the other end, Maple Bay. It is a picturesque, homelike lake, with its wooded banks and grace^dlj' curving shores. It has good fishing and bathing, and being the only lake of its attraction and location near to that section of Minnesota to the west and north of it, has become a favorite spot in summer for that part of the country, even for many in Grand Forks and other town.s in northern North Dakota. The great majority of the cottages, numbering from 75 to 100, are found along the northwestern shore, and some of them have been built as long ago as twenty-five or thirty years. There are two principal hotels -. Bulin 's Hotel, familiar to the countryside for many years; and the Lakeside Hotel, which was put up a few years ago, and which is also a popular .spot with cottagers and transients in the summer time.

This attempt of the writer to give Polk County its true "setting" in the history of the Red River Valley of the North is made in the hope that it will meet with the approval of the old settlers who have, with the true pioneer spirit, aided in redeeming the Valley from its wild nature and the tramp of the not-tooniuch-civilized American Indian.

By Rev. E. Theillon

Gentilly is an inland town, situated seven miles east of Crookston, and was settled by French Canadians about 1878. Prominent among the first settlers were Joseph Beaudette, Edouard Lanctot, Chas. Rejimbal,

Arel, Ces Cervais, Basilic Dufault, J. B. Dufault, Joseph Martel, Frs. Pinsonnault and Labonte, and others. A majority of these are now dead.

Rev. Father Champagne, during the years 1S7S- 1879, and 1880, occasionally attended Gentilly from Red Lake Falls, offering up the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass in the little frame district school house of the village. The first resident priest was Rev. A. Bouchard, who was appointed pastor of the parish in June, 1881, by the Right Reverend Rupert Seidembusch, D. D., then Vicar Apostolic of Northern Minnesota. The first presbytery and the first church were erected by Father Bouchard at a cost of $1,200; they were simple frame structures of modest dimensions, suitable, however, for the condition of the settlement, which comprised some 63 families.

The faithful services of Father Bouchard terminated in 1884, when he was succeeded by Rev. C'. V. Gamaehe, who, during four years of pastorate, built an addition to the church for the accommodation of the increasing population and purchased the present cemetery in close proximity to the church. Father Gamaehe worked successfully in promoting the best interests of the parish, both spiritually and materially.

In November, 1888, Rev. E. Theillon, the present pastor, assumed charge of the parish, having been promoted by Bishop Seidembusch from Terrebonne, Minn. At his advent into the parish. Father Theillon found the population, chiefly farmers, somewhat discouraged because of the partial failure of crops caused by their farming methods ; but knowing that the material progress would i)romote, iii no small measure, the spiritual advancement of the members of the congregation, who were already leaving in large numbers, he advised and exhorted them to adopt diversified farming and was mainly instrumental in la.ying the foundation of the now famous cheese factory of Gentilly, which has been and is today the main source of the present remarkable prosperity of Gentilly. The Gentilly cheese has frequently taken the first premium in inter-State and intra-State contests and is known, on the market, as the "First Premium" cheese throughout the country. Amid this new prosperity the Gentilly parish has, under the able supervision of Father Theillon, built the present large presbytery, known as "the White House of Gentilly," and erected during the past year (1915) the beautiful brick church of gothic architecture, with artistic stained glass windows and furnishings, to the value of $35,000, practically free from all indebtedness. This indicates the good financial condition of the Gentilly people, due mainly to their loyalty to their old pastor and church. It is well known that the spiritual condition of the parish has far exceeded its material progress.

from St. Cloud. Soon the Hudson's Bay Company established a post at the present city of Grand Forks, and thus eliminated many hardships. As a consequence of this, settlers streamed into the Northwest, and the real development of the countrj' began.

Present Condition

One of the very best districts in northwestern ]\Iinnesota is what is known as the Marais Community. It is one of the oldest settled districts in Polk County and its local history is most interesting. It has been well described in an address by Peter Allan Gumming, a son of one of the first settlers of the Community, before the Civics Club of the University of North Dakota and printed in the Grand Forks Herald of February 27, 1916. In part Mr. Gumming says :

"In the year 1871 two middle aged Scotchmen, "William Fleming and Robert Coulter, accompanied by T. L. McVeety, migrated to Northern Minnesota in search of government land. "While camping one night upon the banks of the Red Lake river, seven miles from the present city of Grand Forks, they discussed the possibilities of the district in which they were stopping. After examining the soil in the morning and taking into consideration the possibilities of a nearby town and the prospects of good transportation, they decided to settle there. These gentlemen formed the nucleus of the present Marais Community. For a few years they were the only settlers. During this time they underwent many hardships, for they were forced to draw all their provisions with oxen

First Permanent Settlers

Perhaps there were temporary settlers on the Marais a hundred years ago, for the trappers and fur hunters were here at that time, but we are not certain that this is true ; we are only certain that if white men lived here in "the long ago," they did not remain long and their occupation was unimportant. Just across the river on the North Dakota side is the English Coulee, called by the early Frenchmen in this quarter "La Coulee Anglais." Reliable accounts of the olden time say that this coulee was so named because, more than a hundred years ago, an English family, that of a trader or an employee of the Hudson's Bay Company, were murdered at this point, where the family were living. The names of these martyrs of civilization have not been preserved.

The first permanent latter day settlers of the district, who have reclaimed it from wilderness and made it to "bloom and blossom as the rose," may be, in part at least, named here, according to so high an authority as Mr. James Gumming, who has long lived here. The very first were "W^m. Fleming and Robert Coulter, who settled in what is now the Marais Community in 1871. These are the "two middle-aged Scotchmen" previously referred to. Fleming was born in Glasgow ; Coulter was a Scotch-Canadian, but his father was a native of Glasgow. Later in 1871 came T. L. i\IcVeety and David Nisbet, two other Caledonians. In 1872 came James McRae and Archie McRae ; in 1875, James Nisbet ; in 1876, Robert Nisbet and Joseph Robertson ; in 1877, James Robertson, David Morrow, James McDonald, Donald ile- Donald, and Duncan Bain ; in 1878, J. A. Hannah ; in 1879, James Shanks. All these men were either Scotchmen themselves or the descendants of Scotchmen.

One of the first districts to become quickly settled was the present Marais community. It was not long until it eoinmcnced to organize. For many years this organization was crude, but since that time until the present day, development has been going on. This paper will not attempt to trace the developments, but rather will deal with this community in its present developed condition, although in a few instances a comparison will be made with conditions as they existed ten years ago.

This community, consisting of twenty-eight square miles, is situated in the west central part of Polk County, in the State of Minnesota. Its western boundary may be irregularly drawn about one mile east of East Grand Forks ; the southern boundary is formed by the Red Lake River; while the northern and eastern boundaries are but imaginary lines a few miles north and east from the banks of the Marais. Meandering through this community and dividing it nearly in two is the IMarais. This is an intermittent stream which is believed to have been once a river bed. This, together with the Red Lake River, provided ample opportunities for proper drainage. The natural lay of the land, however, because of its general levelness did not give sufficient drainage, but the building of county ditches a few years ago along each highway running east and west and leading into either the Marais or the Red Lake River, completed a sufficient drainage. This situation, which gives the inhabitants easy access to the marketing towns of Crookston and Grand Forks, and which permitted the easy completion of an efficient drainage system, has been a great asset to the communitj'.

In 1915 the approximate value of improved land in this community was $26 an acre ; to-day the average value is about $85 per acre. This great increase in land is partly due to the complete drainage system ; partly to the improved conditions established by better building, and partly to the adoption of more scientific methods of farming, whereby the 3'ield per acre has been greatly increased. The increase in the valuation of buildings is in part due to the increase in cost of lumber, but nevertheless, many new buildings have been erected, which bears testimony to the prosperity of the community. The increase in the value of live stock is in part due to the rise of the market price, but it is also due to an increase in the number of stock as a consequence of a realization of the value of live stock. In the case of live stock, when considering cattle, the increase was from six to twelve head for each farm.

Perhaps a part of this thrift may be accounted for when we learn of the people who compose this community. Of the two hundred and eighty-nine inhabitants, six are Norwegians, twelve Germans, twentytwo Irish and two hundred and forty-nine Scotch. The village of Mallory boasts of eleven inhabitants. It also boasts of the only bachelors in the community - two carpenters.

In this village also is situated the most important school. There are four schools in the community having a combined enrollment of sixty-eight pupils. The Mallory School, established in 1870, derives its importance chiefly by being the instigator in leading the schools of the community with the East Grand Forks school system.

The Churches

But the greatest institutions within this community are the churches. Of these there are two, one a Methodist church situated at jMallory, the other a Presbyterian church, situated on the banks of the Marais. The Methodist church was organized in 1885. It has but few members in the church, but they have managed to always help support a minister. Their stronghold is in the Sunday school, in which they have fifty-one enrolled. Almost all this church's activities come through the young people's organization known as the Epworth League. - - - The chief church, however, is the Presbyterian. The activities of this church are felt far and wide. At the last meeting of the Presbytery it was shown that the Marais Church bested all of the other churches of Adams Presbytery in contributing to the various boards of both foreign

The church was organized in 1885, and the original members were Mrs. "Wm. Fleming, Mrs. Tena Lee, Christopher Coulter, Mrs. Elizabeth Coulter, S. S. Davidson, Mrs. S. S. Davidson, John Bryson, Mrs. Isabelle Bryson, Mrs. R. Bryson, John Hannah, Mrs. Janet Hannah, ilrs. Barbara McDonald, Margaret Lee Coulter, Mrs. Margaret Durtell, Mrs. Elizabeth Cumming, Mrs. Annie Robertson, Mrs. Agnes Stewart, James McVeety, Mrs. Janet McVeety, Donald McDonald and wife, Charles McDonald, Robert Nisbet, and Stephen Sprague. The elder was Donald McDonald. The deacons were J. A. Hannah and S. S. Davidson. The trustees were Robert Nisbet, John Bryson, Christopher Coulter, also treasurer; Charles McDonald and Stephen Sprague. The present membership is 75. At iirst services were held in private houses, and after 1878 in the school house.

Social Oeganizations

Besides the schools and churches there are several organizations. The first which we might mention is the Mallory Burns Club. This club was organized in 1900, and James Nisbet was the first President. On the 25th of January of each year, this club gives a banquet, entertainment and dance in commemoration of Robert Burns. Because it is one of the strongest of its kind in the northwest, Scotchmen come from far and near. Gifted players on the bagpipe, oldtime Scotch dancers and singers, coupled with the talents of the younger generation, never fail in giving a splendid entertainment. The 25th of January is always remembered for months afterwards.

A recently organized club is the Boys' Corn Club. With the East Grand Forks High School Agricultural Department at the head, all the boys imder eighteen years of age throughout the community are leagued together to foster the growth of corn. Prizes are offered by various concerns, such as the First National Bank of East Grand Forks for the largest

For purely economic benefits are the Equity League and Farmers' Insurance Company. When this organization was first organized, it was an attempt to co-operate the farmers. Although the farmers have failed in co-operating for selling, nevertheless, they have co-operated for buying, and thus have derived many benefits from the organization. The insurance company likewise has aided the farmers in saving. * * *

But the most valuable organization socially, educationally and financially, is the Farmers' Club. This club was organized about two years ago, and has proven a great success. Here the farmers and their families meet once a month, and enjoy a real sociable time. A part of each program is always given over to entertainment

This district, like the rest of the Red River Valley, M'as blessed by nature at the close of the glacial period by the deposition of a rich deep alluvial loam upon a yellow clay subsoil. At one time, this district was covered with trees, which have been chopped down. These trees left the soil rich in organic matter. No better soil for agricultural purposes can be found anywhere. Besides this gift of a wonderful soil, the district was blessed by having two railroads cross its territory. These railroads establish spurs at almost every mile, thus giving great advantages for transportation. Three lines of farmers' telephones intersect the country, connecting them with the cities of Grand Forks and Crookston. Two rural free deliveries leave the mail daily at almost every door. With the establishment of these facilities this district was brought into closer contact with the rest of the world. The consequence was a great upheaval in the methods of farming; a change of attitude toward higher learning, and a great change in crops.

Well settled in a valuable, thickly populated community, surrounded by the best environment which schools, churches, and other organizations can offer, and allowed ample opportunities for industrial ex-