Buchanan County, Missouri - Chapter 7: The Overland Period, 1904

Chapter 7: The Overland Period

The Emigration to California - St. Joseph as the Starting Point and Supply Depot - Waiting for Grass - Lining up for Dinner - A Landlord Who Knew His Business - Freighting by \\'agon - The Ov^erland Stage and the Pony Express.

St. Joseph was now on the eve of the next important period in its history. Early in the spring of 1849 began tlie rush to Cahfornia. As a starting point St. Joseph offered advantages which no other place possessed. There was at that time a population of i ,900 and there were 19 well equipped stores in operation, with an aggregate stock of $400,000. Among the merchants of that period was the late Milton Tootle. In addition there were two flouring mills, two steam sawmills, nine blacksmith shops, four wagon shops, two tinners, two extensive saddle and harness manufactories, etc. There were also two ferries.

Scarcely a day in February and March passed that did not bring a large ninnber of emigrants, and the Gazette of March 30, 1849, states at that time there were upwards of 500 people camped about the city, awaiting the appearance of grass. The next month saw this number doubled. Grass came early that year, and the emigrants got away promptly.

On May 7, 1849, the St. Joseph Mining Company, the first regularly organized company of men. left for California. Samuel Johnson, A. D. McDonald. Joel Ryan. John Lewis, James Andrews, John and James Somerfield,

B. D. Ellett, Edward Ban.all. J. W. Jones, Thomas Faucett, ^^lichael Cameron, Samuel Wilson, Francis Brubaker. John F. McDowell, T. Y. Warner, D. H. and AL F. Moss and James Kirkwood were among the number, and all did well.

From April i to June 15, 1849, 1,508 wagons crossed on the ferries from St. Joseph. Estimating four men to a wagon, this would make 6,032 emigrants. At Duncan's ferry, four miles above St. Joseph. 685 wagons crossed. At other ferries as far north as Council Bluffs, 2,000 crossed, and 10,000 crossed at Independence. It is estimated that 27,000 men and 38,000 mules and oxen left these points during that time.

In 1850 the overland emigration exceeded 100,000, and it is estimated that over one-half of the emigrants left from St. Joseph. As the spring was later by a month than was expected, 40,000 to 50,000 people were encamped in and for miles around the town, in tents and wagons.

In the fall of 1849 the Occidental Hoteh was built by William Fowler and rented to Maj. James Vaughn. In his reminiscences. Col. John Doniphan describes Major Vaughn as a jolly, rubicund landlord, who extended a

Virginia welcome to all his guests; who, apparently, never slept, and who never permitted a stranger to drink alone. He had an inexhaustible stock of stories and was a charming raconteur. The line from the dining room often extended across Jules street and curved up Second, and dinner often continued from 12 to 4 o'clock. Meals were $1 each, as this was the best hotel in town, and a man stood at the dining room door to collect in advance.

In 1849 the emigrants by steamboat brought cholera here, but, although a few isolated cases occurred, there were no deaths. The disease was, however, communicated to the Indians across the river, and claimed many victims among the Sacs and Foxes and other tribes. In 1851 cholera was epidemic at many of the towns on the Missouri, and there were several cases in St. Joseph in May of that year.

By 1 85 1 the California fever had considerably abated. The increase of steamer^ on the Missouri River caused a competition in prices to such an extent that emigrants and freight were carried to Council Bluffs and to Florence, a Mormon settlement six miles above Council Bluffs, on the west side of the river, at the same figures which had obtained to St. Joseph during the two previous years. Those going by Florence saved over 200 miles of land travel and avoided crossing both the Missouri and Big Platte rivers. The route was generally via Kearney, Laramie, Fcho Canyon and Webber River, through Salt Lake.

After 1850, oxen \yere largely used to draw heavy trains, as experience had taught that they were less liable to loss from stampede and alkali water, stood travel better and were more valuable at the end of the trip. The number of emigrants leaving St. Joseph in 185 1 and 1852 was comparatively small. The Indians, too, had proved more annoying, and great care and vigilance were required.

St. Joseph and Savannah sent out large ventures. Among those interested were the late James McCord, Richard E. Turner and the late Dudley M. Steele, all of whom figured prominently in the later commercial history of St. Joseph. Many cattle were driven from this State and sold for beef in the mining camps and at San Francisco. A few months' grazing in the Sacramento bottoms generally put them in fine condition for slaughter. In 1852 Charles A. and Elias H. Perry crossed over 1,000 head at Amazonia, and the latter accompanied them to California, realizing large profits.

Many wagon trains were loaded at St. Joseph with provisions and wares of various kinds and taken to Salt Lake and other Western points. The freighting business soon grew to immense proportions, St. Joseph being the supply depot for the outlying civilization. From this grew the wholesale business of St. Joseph, which is to-day among the greatest in the West.

The necessities of the case brought forth the overland stage. People who travel to California in cushioned cars in these days can have but little conception of this gigantic enterprise and its offspring, the Pony Express. The first contract to transfer the mails to Salt Lake from the Missouri River was let to Samuel Woodson of Independence, in 1850. The intervening country was a wilderness more than a thousand miles in breadth, occupied by Indians and l)uffalo, and it required a high quality of nerve to invest money in such an undertaking.

The next contract was let to John M. Hockaday, also of Missouri, who ran stages out of St. Joseph, striking the government road at Kennekuk. Kansas, near the site of Horton. Hockaday received $190,000 annually for carrying a weekly mail. He sold out to Russell. Majors & Waddell. The Pony Express was in- augurated and operated by this firm. The following facts concerning this celebrated venture are taken from a sketch by W. T. Bailey, which apeared in the Century Magazine of November, 1898, and from an article prepared by Col. John Doniphan for AlcClurc's Magazine.

In the -fall of 1854, United States Senator W. M. Gwin of California made the trip from San Francisco East e)i route to Washington, D. C.,. on horseback, by the way of Salt Lake and South Pass, then known as the Central Route. For a part of the way he had for; company B. F. Ficklin, general superintendent of the freighting firm of Russell, Majors & Waddell.

Out of this traveling companionship grew the Pony Express. Mr. Ficklin's enthusiasm for closer communication with the East was contagious, and Senator Gwin became an untiring advocate of an express service via this route and on the lines suggested by Mr. Ficklin.

While at this time there w-ere three transcontinental mail routes to California, the great bulk of the mail was sent by w^ay of Panama on a 22-day schedule from New York to San Francisco. The Butterfield Route carried some through mail, while the Central Route and Chorpenning lines carried only local mail.

California by this time held a large and enterprising population. While the Union men were in the majority, the Southern sympathizers were numerous and aggressive, and were making every effort to carry the State out of the Union. To the Union men the existing arrangements were far from satisfactory ; for it was evident that both the Southern Stage Route and the Panama Route would be liable to interruption upon the opening of hostilities, and, besides it was of the utmost importance that quicker communication he had with the Washington authorities.

their government contracts, Mr. Russell, the head of the firm of Russell, Majors & Waddell, met Senator Gwin, and was approached by him on the subject of increased mail facilities via the Central Route.

Mr. Russell hurriedly returned West. Meeting his partners, Mr. Majors and Mr. Waddell, at Fort Leavenworth, he laid the project before them. These gentlemen, while appreciating the force of the arguments advanced, could not see even expenses in the undertaking, and consequently objected to it. But Mr. Russell still insisted that the project would eventually lead up to a paying proposition, and, further, said that he was committed to Senator Gwin and his friends.

This latter settled the matter, for the word of this firm, once given, was to them as binding as their written obligation, and they unitedly threw their whole energy and resources into the carrying out of the pledge made by one of their members. Committed to the enterprise, the firm proceeded to organize the Central Overland California & , Pike's Peak Express Company, obtaining a charter under the State laws of Kansas. The stage line fnmi Atchison to Salt Lake City was turned over by the firm to the new company, who purchased Chorpenning's mail contract and stage outfit, then operating a monthly line between Salt Lake City and Sacramento, and the franchise and equipment of the Leavenworth & Pike's Peak Express, organized in 1859. then operating a daily stage line between Leavenw^orth and Denver, via the Smoky Hill Route, now covered by the Kansas division of the Union Pacific.

The company had an established route with the necessary stations between St. Joseph and Salt Lake City. Chorpenning's line west of Salt Lake City had few or no stations, and these had to be built; also some changes in the route were considered advisable. The service comprised 60 agile young men as riders, 100 additional station-keepers, and 420 strong, wiry horses. So well did those in charge understand their business that only 60 days were required to make all necessary arrangements for the start. April 3, i860, was the date agreed upon, and on that day the first Pony Express left St. Joseph and San Francisco. In March, i860, the following advertisement had appeared in the Missouri Republican of St. Louis and other papers : run regularly weekly hereafter, carrying a letter mail only. The point on the Mo. River will be in telegraphic connection with the East and will be announced in due time.

"Telegraphic messages from all parts of the United States and Canada in connection with the point of departure will be received up to 5 p. m. of the day of leaving and transmitted over the Placerville & St. Jo to San Francisco and intermediate points by the connecting express in eight days. The letter mail will be delivered in San Francisco in ten days from the departure of the express. The express passes through Forts Kearney, Laramie, Bridger, Great Salt Lake City, Camp Floyd, Carson City, the Washoe Silver Mines. Placerville and Sacramento, and letters for Oregon, Washington Territory, British Columbia, the Pacific Mexican ports, Russian possession. Sandwich Islands, China, Japan and India will be mailed in San Francisco.

"Special messengers, bearers of letters to connect with the express of the 3d of April. will receive communications for the courier of that day at 481 loth St., Washington City, up to 2 :45 p. m. of Friday, March 30th, and

The start from St. Joseph was made at 5 130 o'clock p. m., directly after the arrival of the Hannibal & St. Joseph train from the East. There is some dispute as to who was the first rider. Mr. Bailey states that it was Henry Wallace, and Charles Cliff of this city, who was one of the regular riders of the Pony Express, states that it was Johnny Fry. The popular belief in St. Joseph is that Fry is entitled to the credit. The start proper was made from the original Pike's Peak Stables, which stood south of Patee Park, and which have since been replaced by a structure bearing the same name. A large crowd was collected alx)ut the stables and the Patee House (now McDonald's factory). The rider started for the local olhce of the express company on north Second street, at the firing of a cannon. Here he received his dispatches and, without delay, rode to the ferry-boat "Denver," in waiting. At Elwood he met with another popular ovation, and galloped westward, followed by the cheers of the multitude. From San Francisco the start was made at tlie same hour, a steamer being used to Sacramento, where the pony service really began. From there the first rider. Harry Roff, left at 12 midnight.

The distance between St. Joseph and Sacramento was covered in 232 hours. Riders out of St. Joseph weat as far as Seneca, making the 60 miles in eight hours, and stopping for meals at Kennekuk. There were four stations between St. Joseph and Seneca. John Fry, John Burnett, Jack Keetly, Charles Cliff and Gus Cliff rode out of St. Joseph. Of these but two survive. Keetly lives in Montana and Charles

The Oldest House In St. Joseph And Representative Citizens

All the riders were young men selected for their nerve, light weight, and general fitness. No effort was made to uniform them, and they dressed as their individual fancy dictated, the usual costume being of buckskin hunting shirt, cloth trousers tucked into a pair of high boots, and a jockey cap or slough hat. All rode armed. At first a Spencer rifle was carried strapped across the back, in addition to a pair of army (Colt's) revolvers in their holsters. The rifle, however, was found useless, and was abandoned. The equipment of the horses was a light riding saddle and bridle, with the saddlebags, or "mochila," of heavy leather. These had holes cut in them so that they would fit over the horn and tree of the saddle. The mochilas had four pockets, called ''cantinas," one in each corner, so as to have one in front and one behind each leg of the rider; in these the mail was placed. Three of these pockets were locked and opened en route at military posts and at Salt Lake City, and under no circumstances at any other place. The fourth was for way-stations, for which each stationkeeper had a key, and also contained a way-bill, or time-card, on which a record of arrival and departure was kept. The same mochila was transferred from pony to pony and from rider, to rider until it was carried from one terminus to the other. The letters, before being placed in the pockets, were wrapped in oiled silk to preserve them from moisture. The maximum weight of any one mail was 20 pounds ; but this was rarely reached. The charges were originally $5 for each letter of one half-ounce or less ; but afterward this was reduced to $2.50 for each letter not exceeding one-half ounce, this being in addition to the regular United States postage. Specially made light-weight paper was greatly used to reduce the expense. Special editions of the Eastern newspapers were printed on tissue-paper to enable them to reach subscribers on the Pacific Coast. This, however, was more as an advertisement, there being little demand for them at their necessarily large price.

At first, stations averaged 25 miles apart, and each rider covered three stations, or 75 miles, daily. Later, stations were established at intermediate points, reducing the distance between them, in some cases, to 10 miles, the distance between stations being regulated by the character of the country. This change was made in the interest of quicker time, it having been demonstrated that horses could not be kept at the top of their speed for so great a distance as 25 miles. At the stations, relays of horses were kept, and the station-keeper's duties included having a pony ready bridled and saddled half an hour l^efore the express was due. Upon approaching a station, the rider would loosen the mochila from his saddle, so that he could leap from his pony as soon as he reached the station, throw the mochila over the saddle of the fresh horse, jump on and ride off. Two minutes was the maximum time allowed at stations, whether it was to change riders or horses. At relay-stations where riders were changed, the incoming man would unbuckle his mochila before arriving, and hand it to his successor, who would start off on a gallop as soon as his hand grasped it. Time was seldotn lost at stations. Station-keepers and relayriders were always on the lookout. In the daytime the pony could be seen for a considerable distance, and at night a few well known yells would bring everything into readiness in a very short time. As a rule, the riders would do 75 iniles over the route west-lx)und one day. returning over the same distance with the first east-bound express.

The great feat of the Pony Express service was the dehvery of President Lincohi's inaugural address in 1861. Great interest was felt in this all over the land, foreshadowing as it did the policy of the administration in the matter of the Rebellion. In order to establish a record, as well as for an advertisement, the company determined to break all previous records, and to this end horses were led out from the stations so as to reduce the distance each would have to run, and get the highest possible speed out of every animal. Each horses averaged only 10 miles, and that at its very best speed. Every precaution was taken to prevent delay, and the result stands without a parallel in history : seven days and 17 rours - 185 hours - for 1,950 miles, an average of 10.7 miles per hour. From St. Joseph to Denver, 665 miles

After running for 17 months, the Pony Express closed in 1861, Edward Creighton having completed a telegraph line from Omaha to Sacramento. At the time of its death, the express was owned by Ben Holladay, who had acquired the stage line of Russell, Majors & Waddell, and was operating the same out of St. Joseph.

The freighting business and stage lines continued until driven out by the railroads. In 1 861 Holladay ran the line from St. Joseph direct to California. The first coach left on July ist, and arrived at Placerville, July i8th, and the first through passenger was Major Simmington, one of the editors of the Sail Francisco Bulletin.