Lafayette County, Missouri - Chapter 4: Early Settlement of the County, 1910

Chapter 4: Early Settlement of the County

Around the early settlement of any given community lingers many a hallowed memory. To have been a pioneer in Lafayette county was to be numbered among the early van-guard in this section of the "vast, illimitable and ever changing West." The settlement of Lafayette county dates back of the admission of Missouri into the Union as a state by half a decade and more. In the passing of almost a century the transformation has been great. The fertile, virgin soil of this county had not been touched by the plow-share of white men up to about 1815, when the first few settlers came to the domain now known as Lexington township. It seems quite well established that the first man to locate here was Gilead Rupe. He settled about two and a half miles to the southwest of where the city of Lexington now stands - the date being during the year 1815 (probably in the summer of that year), which makes it ninety-five years ago.

Gilead Rupe, the first settler of this county, just named above, was a Virginian by birth and his wife was a German lady. They had twelve children. He emigrated west and settled first in Howard county, Missouri, and operated a ferryboat at Boonville. Among his children was a son Richard, next to the youngest, and from the latter's son, W. A. Rupe, now of Rockport, Missouri, it is learned that the grandfather's family record was burned by the Indians, who drove the white settlers to the old fort in Howard county, and it was while there that their property was all destroyed. The grandson from whom these facts are obtained was born in 1851, his parents having been married near Napoleon, this county, and had three children, W. A. being the youngest, and now the only survivor of the Rupe line in this country.

The nearest neighbor of pioneer Rupe was Jesse Cox, who about the same date settled in Arrow Rock, sixty-five miles distant. Indians were then troublesome here and Doctor Smith, a good authority on early incidents, says that a party of them surrounded the house of Mr. Rupe and besieged his family about four days. Two of his sons succeeded in getting out and went to Boonville, where alarm was given and rescuers sent back and the savages were driven away. This was about 18 19.

In 1817 David James came into the township and effected the second settlement on section 16, township 50, range 27. He had two grown sons, Jesse and Harry James.

The first settlement in Clay township, as now defined, was effected by Col. Henry Renick, William Renick, Ruth, widow of Samuel Renwick, and Young Ewing. The latter was the first county clerk of this county. These all located near the present site of Wellington in 1819. About the same date came Thomas Hopper and Killion and John Young, who emigrated from Indiana.

The next settlement was made in Dover township, as now known, by John Lovelady and Solomon Cox in 181 7, at a point a half mile east of the site of the present village of Dover. W. R. Cole settled a mile and a half west of them and made improvements the same season. These families came from Virginia.

Following the settlements already named was that made in what is now called Washington and Sniabar townships. The townships were organized about 1822 and prior to that date the following lived in the part of this county now known as Sniabar township : Julius Emmons, David Ward, Thomas Swift and Jesse Hitchcock, all of whom were doubtless very early settlers in the township. Henry Renick and Abel Owen were among the earliest to locate there.

The territory known now as Davis township was originally settled by Joseph Collins, who located at "Bear's Grove," section 13, township 49, range 26, sometime between 1825 and 1829. (See township history for later pioneer settlement in this township.)

The next settlement of Lafayette county was made by Patrick Henry about 1825, and soon after came John Scott, both claiming lands in what is now Freedom township. James and Chris Mulkey located at what was termed Mulkey's Grove, two or three miles south of present Aullville village.

In the early thirties immigrants began to pour into Middleton township, which was the last in the county to be generally improved and is now one of the most prosperous and wealthy sections of the entire county. From good authority, the first actual settlement was made there in the early forties, not later than 1842, by Alexander Galbraith, from Kentucky, who purchased two

Washington Irving, the celebrated American author and traveler, immortalized the section of country near Dover and Waverly, this county. It was upon one of his extended western trips that he enjoyed the hospitality of Squire John J. Heard (whose name appears as among the first grand jurors of this county), at whose house Irving remained several days in 1819. He later wrote his book known as "Astoria," in which he paid a glowing tribute to the kindness of pioneer Heard.

The first school of which there seems to be any record in Lafayette county was in Middleton township, in the settlement made there prior to 1820, by Littleberry Estes and John Evans, a Mr. Hyde and a Mr. Russell, all of whom emigrated from Kentucky. It is claimed a school there existed as early as 1820, started by Mr. Estes' son. This school was taught in 1822-23 by Edward Ryland. brother of Judge Ryland, the elder. This was evidently a private school.

The Settlement In 1837

"Five saw-mills and five grist-mills are driven by water power, in the county of Lafayette. [It should have been added that at Dover - Tare Bean grove - was a grist-mill driven by the water flowing from a large spring, and that at Lexington there was a United States land office.]

"Lexington is one of the towns from which outfits are made in merchandise, mules, oxen and wagons for the Santa Fe or New Mexico trade. The fur traders who pass to the mountains by land make this town a rendezvous, and frequently are going out and coming in with their wagons and packed mules, at the same period of coming and going that is chosen by the Mexican traders. Lexington is, therefore, occasionally a thoroughfare of traders of great enterprise and caravans of infinite value. The dress and arms of the traders, trappers and hunters of these caravans, and caparisons of the horses and mules they ride, present as great a diversity as the general resurrection itself of all nations and ages can promise for the speculations of the curious." £i

The same book states that Lafayette county then had a population of four thousand six hundred and eighty-three persons, while it also says that in 182 1 it numbered but one thousand three hundred and forty; in 1830, it was placed at two thousand nine hundred and twelve.

Lexington was given as three hundred and nineteen miles from St. Louis by river, and Fine's Landing placed as fifteen miles below Lexington. At that date the county had but three postoffices - Lexington, with James Aull as postmaster; Dover, with Benjamin F. Yates as postmaster; Pleasant Grove, with W. H. Ewing as postmaster.

A newspaper clipping of November 7, 1843, states: "Boats are arriving at our landing from the Ohio river crowded with emigrants from the older states, all seeking a better home in Missouri. Let them come. There is room and abundance of everything, and we know that they will greatly add to the Whig vote in November !"

Early Morals

Uncle George Houx related to a correspondent of the Lexington Intelligencer, in 1880, many interesting things concerning pioneer life, and especially touching on the common honesty of the first people who came in to build for themselves homes. The correspondent says :

"In comparing early times with now, in regard to honesty, Uncle George Houx says that money was sewed up in leather bags with whangs and carried on horseback, like meal sacks, from Santa Fe, and when they arrived at Lexington, at the tavern, in the Old Town, were thrown down like common luggage. These bags would get so hard and dry that they would feel like logs when thrown down. A man by the name of Green kept the inn, as it was called, and Ed. Ryland, who was then receiver, would take the money and store it away in the rear of Stramake's store and when he got a wagon load it was hauled away in farm wagons to St. Louis, with no other guards than the two teamsters and a man or two. And once when he was in the circuit court, while John F. Ryland was on the bench, he heard the charge given to the grand jury and they repaired out of doors (there being no jury room) and after a few minutes returned into court from a hazel brush patch, and said that no one had been doing anything wrong and the judge replied that this was the fifth term and no one had been indicted, and then complimented the county for its morality and honesty."

The same writer from the same good authority says: "There was no blacksmith shop nearer this county than Old Franklin, and his brother Nick, as he called him, fixed up the fore wheels of a wagon, and the neighbors all brought their axes and broad axes, and he, with his load, went to Old Franklin, to get a box of gold and silver belonging to Mr. Hicklin, father of James Hicklin. The neighbors in both counties knew of it. He says that they had no use for any officers, but a clerk to keep the records and a sheriff to collect and pay over the revenue. He says that Mr. Stramcke and Robert Hale well recollected these times. He tells how Judge Hicks got to be a lawyer. John Aiill's father furnished the money to buy the books, and he was to help his sons keep store in return, and read law at the same time in leisure moments."

Pioneer Customs

The reader will be interested in knowing something about the early marriage customs in this section of Missouri, as given by the following, which was written many years ago by Joseph H. Page :

"The first marriage ceremony in 'Long Grove Settlement' was William Johnson and Peggy Ennis, in 1828. The knot was tied by Duke Young. The usual custom of 'running for the bottle' at weddings was indulged in, and the prize was won by Granville Page. A bottle of whisky, with a red ribbon tied around its neck and called 'Black Betty,' was the prize. The contestants would start on horseback from the house where the 'infair' was to be held and run to meet the bride and groom. The one who first met them was declared the winner, and had the pleasure of presenting 'Black Betty' to the parson, who took the first drink, then to the bride, then to the groom, etc. All drank from the same bottle. Whole settlements came without invitation and all were made welcome and had a merry time, usually terminating the proceedings with a dance."

The old-fashioned flint-lock rifle was the weapon used in those days. On Fourth of July occasions it was customary to organize a grand hunting expedition. The proceeds of the game sold went to furnish the barbecue which was invariably had afterwards. Candidates and others would furnish funds to pay necessary expenses.

"Speaking of Indians in the northern part of Lafayette county, reminds me that the Indians were at an early time very bothersome and numerous, and, while not savage, were given to petty thieving. The following is told on a party of early immigrants who were in pursuit of an Indian who had stolen a horse from one of them : They had succeeded in approaching him and were bringing him back to the settlement. The red man professed to be very penitent, and so won upon the sympathy of his captors that they allowed him considerable liberty. One night while encamped on the Blackwater, as he was assisting them to gather firewood, he gave them the slip and secreted himself, as they later ascertained, in some driftwood in the creek, just allowing his head to project from the water, where he remained until they had crossed and ceased hunting for him and the camp had become quiet. He then emerged from his hiding place, secured another and better horse from the camp, with which he succeeded in making his way to his tribe."

Game was plenty. Chris. Mulkey, in 1826, killed five deer before sunrise, where Mr. Page now lives. Bears, panthers, catamounts and elk were plenty, and wolves "by the acre," as old Uncle Jo Page would say. A panther killed a hog weighing one hundred and fifty pounds and covered it with grass, near Mr. Page's residence. Hunters watched for his return, but he never showed up again.

First Important Events

Around the first events of a county's settlement there hangs much of interest, even away down the years. The following events show the beginnings of affairs in Lafayette county :

The first saloon license was granted to Amos Riley, dated May, 1823, and was for six months ; the fee was five dollars. The limit of saloons in the county was then six.

The first case tried by a jury was that of the State vs. Jacob Catron, trespass. He was acquitted. The jury was as follows : John Wallace, Amos Rylah, Jesse Gray, William Cox, Joseph Irvin, John Hillion, Benjaor Majors, Christopher Cox, David Blevins, William Bowers, William Dobson and James Fletcher.

The first lawful execution was that of Leland Tromly, April 4, 1834, for the killing with an ax of Joseph Stephens. The judge was John F. Ryland, the prosecuting attorney, Amos Rees, and the sherifif, James Fletcher.

The first woman to be hung in Missouri (it is believed) was the second execution in Lafayette county, Mary Andreas, alias Tromberg, who was hanged April 30, 1834, for the killing of her infant child.

The first newspaper published in this county was the Lexington Express, its first issue being dated April 4, 1840, Charles Patterson being its editor.

When the publishers of this work requested me to write a sketch on the Germans of Lafayette county I entered upon this task with pleasure, hoping to be able to give justice to an element of our population which, in a large, if not the largest measure, has contributed and is still contributing to the development of the resources of this county and helped to make it one of the best, one of the richest sections of the great commonwealth of Missouri. As the space in this book allotted to my use has been limited I must be brief and spare the reader a lengthy preamble.

The First Settlers

A historical sketch of our first German settlers would certainly be of great interest. But since the first German settlements of this county were not prompted or aided by immigration societies, statistics are meagre and not easily obtainable. We. therefore, must content ourselves with a general sketch. The reader will find a narration of the historical events which especially concern the German settlers, principally during the Civil war, in the general history of Lafayette county and in the sketch of Professor A. Baepler on the German Lutheran church.

This region became settled by Germans through the "consciousness of kinship." The first Germans who ventured into the wilds of west Missouri came about 1838. Those who entered land in Lafayette county in the years of 1838 to 1850, according to the original entry book in the recorder's office, were: Friedrich Dierking, 1838; Friedrich Frerking, 1838; Friedrich Thremann, 1838; Christian Oetting, 1839; Christian Dierking, 1840; Conrad Stuenkel, 1840 and 1847; Heinrich Franke, 1840 and 1847; Heinrich Bruns, 1840 and 1842; Dietrich Oetting, 1841 ; Georg Brackmann, 1841 ; Heinrich F. Pauling, 1841 ; Heinrich Meyer, 1842; Wilhelm Frerking, 1843; Georg Knecker, 1845; Johann C. Holtkamp, 1845; Heinrich Ehlers, 1845; Friedrich Rabe, 1845; Heinrich Brockmann, 1845; Heinrich Dierking, 1846; F. H. Walkenhorst, 1846; Casper H. Wahrenbrock, 1848; Heinrich Thiemann, 1848; Casper H. Klingenberg, 1848; Georg C. Dreiver, 1849; Heinrich Rabe, 1849; Casper Holtkamp, 1849; Louis Evert, 1849; Heinrich Oelschlaeger, 1849; Louis Stuenkel, 1850; Heinrich Heidorn, 1850; Heinrich Meinecke, 1850.

Documents in the probate court show that the first German estate was that of August Steiger, in 1840, and in 1844 Conrad Stuenkel was appointed administrator of the estate of Heinrich Bruns, Sr., deceased.

The first Germans who were naturalized in Lafayette county were : Christian Harra, in 1839; Friedrich Duerking and Casper Weiker in 1840; Heinrich Evert, Johann H. L. Brackmann, Friedrich Pauling, Heinrich Bruns, Friedrich Thiemann, Georg H. Brackmann and Johann H. Frerking, in 1841.

The fertile prairies of Lafayette county and the rich, well-wooded creek bottoms pleased these pioneers exceedingly. Their letters to friends and kin in Hanover and Westphalia soon brought numbers of immigrants to this neighborhood. Thus this region became settled by a people bound together by like tradition, like speech, and in many instances by blood-relationship. These pioneers came not to found a new German state in this country ; they simply came as farmers who found the tillage of their small acres in Germany too meager a source of income. Once having gotten a foothold in that rich agricultural country of west Missouri, they, by the peaceful methods of purchase, drove their English-speaking neighbors farther and farther out, until now one may journey for many miles without meeting any but German settlers or their descendants in this section. This applies especially to the eastern part of Lafayette county, Concordia and vicinity. This prosperous German community, year by year, stretched farther out in all directions. Emma, Sweet Springs, Ernstville, Corder, Alma and Blackburn are, in a measure, daughter settlements of Concordia.

Settlers After The War

After the Civil war the advantages offered by the fertility of Lafayette county soil and the prosperity of its inhabitants became known in the counties in the eastern part of the state where older German settlements exist. Many farmers of these counties, and some from Illinois, Indiana and other states were attracted by the agricultural richness of this section, and new German settlements in different parts of Lafayette were formed. Especially Warren county, Missouri, sent many of its farmers to the Higginsville neighborhood. These settlers again induced their relatives in the fatherland, mostly in Lippe-Detmold, to come to this land of plenty. In this way Higginsville, Mayview, Wellington, Napoleon and Lexington became the centers of German communities. It may be stated that the Germans who settled in Lexington were in a large proportion mechanics, and only within the last two decades the German fanners have invaded the Lexington vicinity in greater numbers.

Today we find German settlers in every part of the county, and the German-speaking people of Lafayette number about twelve thousand, or onethird the entire population. Churches and church schools have contributed their share to keep things German very much alive, and so it happens that in this, a foreign land, the best of the German characteristics survived in our people for three-quarters of a century.

The German Farmer

The German farmer was the most potent factor in the development of our county. His love for the soil makes him an industrious, never-relaxing tiller. His painstaking endurance and his thorough methods of farming greatly increased the productiveness of the land, and thereby its value. Thus every land owner, even the one who did not cultivate his land, profited by the prosperity of the thrifty German farmer. Within the last four decades the prices of land in Lafayette county increased from twenty-five dollars to fifty dollars to seventy-five dollars to one hundred and fifty dollars and more per acre. No price seems too high for the German farmer, provided the land is good, and conveniently located.

The Business Man

While the German farmers have been, and are, very prosperous, the German business men, in great number recruiting from the families of old settlers, are not less successful. In every town of the county we find German firms. In several towns the mercantile business is exclusively in the hands of Germans, in others these are predominant, and even where they are in the minority their conservative business methods make them a substantial factor, All the creameries, most of the flour mills and grain elevators, one of the canneries, etc., have been established and are run by Germans. Half of the banking houses of the county are entirely or partly controlled by Germans, and their officers transact business with their German customers in the mother tongue. We may safely say that the German business man has established an enviable reputation for integrity and good service.

The Mechanic

In other fields of industry the Germans of Lafayette county have excelled in like manner. Magnificent churches, substantial school buildings, stately business houses, innumerable residences in town and in the country, large barns all over the county, tell us of the skill and diligence of German housebuilders (carpenters, masons, plasterers, etc.). The saddlers, the shoemakers, the blacksmiths, the wagonmakers in every town and village are, with a few exceptions, Germans, and in all other branches of pursuit the sons of our pioneers are well represented. German physicians, and dentists, and teachers enjoy the best reputation, and the ministers of the numerous German congregations in Lafayette have the highest esteem of their fellow-citizens. Last, but not least, we think of the German laborer in town and on the farm, whose services are sought in preference to those of all others.

The German Churches And Schools

We stated above that churches and church schools above all have done their share in maintaining the good characteristics of the Germans of Lafayette county. The list of the German churches and schools given below certainly speaks well of the high standard and the value of the German element as a moral factor in the upbuilding of the American nation. Several of the congregations, especially the Lutheran and the Evangelical, maintain separate school buildings and employ from one to five teachers, while in others the ministers teach school in the churches. The ministers of the Baptist and Methodist churches teach German in short summer courses. In the regular church schools, both English and German are being taught and great pains is taken to maintain the standard of the public schools in all branches of study. Here is a list of the German churches and schools in Lafayette county :

Concordia - Baptist; Catholic, served by Higginsville priest; Evangelical, school; Methodist; Lutheran, four schools and college (see Prof. A. Buepler's article).

The German Catholics worship at the churches at Concordia, Higginsville, Corder, Dover and Lexington. Two German-speaking priests, residing at Higginsville, serve the first named three congregations.

A compilation of the church statistics of Lafayette county for the year 1909 shows that in the German congregations there were two hundred and sixty-one births, fifty-four marriages and one hundred and four burials (several persons who had died in other parts of the country were brought here for burial). A comparison of these figures with the average rates of the nation will convincingly show that the German element is one of the main factors in upholding the vitality of the people of the United States and in maintaining a natural increase of its population.

The German Societies

It is a well known fact that the Germans are very fond of organizing and joining societies, and in our larger cities these social organizations are exceedingly numerous. It is different, however, in Lafayette county, where only a few German societies exist. They are the German Pioneer Society, counting over one hundred members in all sections ; the "Turnverein" at Lexington; the "Kriegerverein," for honorably discharged soldiers of the German army; the Mechanics and Laborers' Aid Society of Concordia, with a branch at Alma; Guttenberg Lodge, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, at Lexington. Besides these the different congregations have a number of societies for the promotion of church work.

The Language

It may be of interest to state that the major portion of the Germans of Lafayette county hail from Hanover, Westphalia and Lippe-Detmold, or are descendants of immigrants from these sections of Germany. The dialect of these, therefore, naturally prevails. The High Germans and Swiss who have strayed among these Low Germans are very few in number. So strong is the influence of the Low German dialect that the descendants of the High Germans soon acquire the prevailing Low German dialect.

The German Paper

The intellectual tie which binds the inhabitants of the German settlements together as one great family, is the Missouri Thalbote, a German paper published at Higginsville, a history of which is to be found under the heading "Newspapers of Lafayette County." The editor of this publication has, and had for many years, a highly esteemed co-worker in the person of N. Haerle, of Lexington, whose writings in prose and rhyme are eagerly read. Mr. Haerle, who has done very much for the enhancement of the German interests in this section, is the honorary member of nearly all the German societies in the county and the founder of the "Pioneer-Verein," and in spite of his advanced years he is ever ready to work in the front rank for the successful arrangement and celebration of the annual "German Day." (We have come into possession of a reminiscence by Mr. Haerle's pen, which, being of historic value, is annexed to this article in English translation.)

The German Characteristics

The Germans of Lafayette county are a pleasure-loving people, and their social gatherings always are well attended and a source of wholesome and refreshing amusement. They are a law-abiding people, and the criminal annals of our courts count but very few German names on their pages ; this small percentage speaks volumes for the high moral standard of the German. They are a patriotic people who, although upholding the traditions, the customs and the language of their forefathers, are excellent citizens of this glorious country, ever ready to perform the duties of such in times of war and in times of peace. History tells us that.

May the Germans of Lafayette county continue to maintain and augment their good reputation, acquired through a history of three-quarters of a century, for painstaking industry and wise economy, conservative progressiveness, immaculate honesty, true love of home and country, devout adherence to their fathers' faith, high esteem of morality and liberal hospitality.

We conclude our treatise with sincere thanks to Prof. W. G. Bek, of the Missouri State University, and N. G. Phetzing, of Legington, Missouri, for kindly furnishing useful information.

A Reminiscence Of War Time

It was in 1 86 1. I was the manager of the German Turner Hall at Lexington, Missouri. The sentiments for and against the Union clashed bitterly in the border states. Lexington was at fever-heat. On the 3d of May, 1 861, a pro-Union meeting at the court house had been called. With others, I went to attend the same, and soon the hall was crowded. Several speakers had made their appearance to address those present. As soon as the first orator began to speak, he was interrupted by noise and hisses, and suddenly all the lights were extinguished. Pandemonium reigned. A mob thronged to the rostrum and seized the Union flag which had been placed there. Quickly I rushed between the men and took the flag from them. I tore it from the staff and hid it under my vestcoat. During the melee I was shot in the leg and beaten over the head. While I was being taken to my home two old citizens knocked me again over the head with their canes. The next morning six men, heavily armed, came to my residence and ordered me, in the name of Jefferson Davis and the Southern Confederacy, to leave town at once. My faithful wife told them that my condition did not allow my leaving home. The men answered that I would be hung on the nearest tree, if I should be found in town the next morning. What could be done? Early the next day friends brought me across the Missouri river, and, accompanied by Captain Fred Nest, I took a train of the Hannibal & St. Joe for St. Louis. Here I found a good position in the war relief office. In 1865 I returned to Lexington where I have lived ever since, for the last twenty-five years retired from business.

By-gones are by-gones. I always was a peaceable citizen, and I bear no hatred or grudge against my enemies of those days. They now count among my best friends. I have forgiven.

The little flag - we do not see the like today, the stripes sewn together and the stars fastened upon the cloth - is still in my possession. A battered and torn little flag, of no value to others, but priceless to me. I have saved its honor ; it shall be with me as long as I live, and it shall lie with me after I am dead.