Benton County, Oregon - Chapter 49: Soap Creek, King's Valley and Summit Precincts, 1885

Soap Creek Precinct is situated in the northeastern portion of Benton county, and extends from its northern boundary southward to Corvallis precinct, a distance of about four miles, and from the Willamette river on the east, to King's Valley on the west. Along the course of the Willamette is a strip of timber consisting, chiefly, of cottonwood, fir, ash, and maple, with a thick undergrowth of hazle and vine maple. The soil in this section is of a rich alluvial nature, and whenever brought into cultivation, is most prolific in its yield. In the country, not in the vicinity of the river, the precinct is made up principally of rolling hills interspersed with fertile valleys and open prairie.

The stream from which the precinct takes its name has its source in a range of hills located in its southwest corner, and after flowing in a northeasterly direction, joins the Willamette not far from the northeast corner. In the vicinage of its head-waters, the lands along its margin are contracted with timber-clad hills rising on either hand, but, at a distance of three or four miles, it opens out into a level plain skirted with a narrow belt of wood. The soil, along the stream, is of a black sticky nature, producing abundantly when properly worked. Indeed the whole precinct is admirably adapted to the cultivation of the cereals, while the indiginous grasses always afford an abundance of pasture the year through, so that stock-raising is among the most profitable of its interests. More especially was this the case some years ago before so much of the virgin lands had been brought under cultivation by the arable farmer. The price of land varies from ten to thirty dollars per acre.

At the head of Soap Creek and along the Willamette, fir timber is abundant, while on the hill sides there are still many splendid groves awaiting the woodman's ax. Most of the slopes produce an excellent quantity of oak, but unfortunately there is no saw mill in the precinct where these various kinds of wood can be manufactured into lumber, the greater portion of which, for building purposes, being obtained from the King's Valley mills. Still, the precinct possesses a good mill site near the head of Soap creek, with excellent water power, an unfailing supply of timber, and a good market.

The thoroughfares through the precinct are various, a road from Corvallis following the windings of the Willamette to Albany, in Linn county; another branch from that just mentioned, to the town of Independence, in Polk county ; along the foot hills is a road to Monmouth, with a branch to Lewisville, also in Polk county; while there are numerous crossways running east and west, the main highways having a north and south direction. The West Side division of the Oregon and California Railroad passes through the precinct with a depot at Wells, eleven miles from the county seat, which possesses a post-office, a general store, a grain warehouse, a blacksmith shop and an Evangelical church. Strange to say there is no saloon, the sale of intoxicating liquors being prohibited by a stipulation in all the original deeds. About two miles east of Wells station the Baptists own a neat church edifice situated on a slight eminence and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country.

The first settlers in the precinct were Arnold Fuller, who pitched his tent on the south bank of Soap creek in the spring of 1846, on what is now known as the Simpson place ; while about the same time David Carson took up his residence within its present bounds. That season too came Thomas M. Read who located the place he now occupies, while directly to the east of him D. D. Stroud took up his abode. In that year there also came to the precinct Talbot Carter, who has represented the county in the Legislature of the State, David Stump, Robert W. Russell, Smilie Carter, J. S. Halter, Green Berry Smith Johanon Carter, Francis Writsman and others probably, whose names we have been unable to learn.

The first house erected in the precinct was in the spring of 1846, by David Stump, who located it near Soap creek at a point about eight miles and a half due north from what was then the town of Marysville. but is now Corvallis, while the second, it is thought, that was raised was that of David Carson, followed by that of Green Berry Smith.

Among the arrivals in Soap Creek precinct in the year 1847, were Frank Writsman, whose original claim is now occupied by his family; D. D. Davis took up the six hundred and forty acre tract adjoining to the south; and Thomas Taylor, a claim on what is now known as the river road. Of the others who came in 1847 we have heard of John Wiles, Munroe Hodges, Drury Hodges, Savage Morgan, Anthony Roberts and Jehial Carter. In the fall of this year the first school-house in the precinct was erected.

It is not remembered that there was any material addition to the settlement in 1848, but in the spring of 1849, Mark Cahoon settled next to Mr. Read, while in 1850, Jermiah Lewis located himself about one mile and a half southeast from Mr. Read, and Lewis Morris took up land about a mile in a northeasterly direction from that gentleman. There located too in this year John Bradley, at present a resident of California. Alfred Writsman, and W. H. Johnson, James Gingles, a former member of the State Legislature, and still a prominent resident of the precinct settled there in 1851; in the following year there coming, James McAffee, John J. Haskins and Isaac Sheets ; while, in 1853, Charles A. Williams cast his lot in that section of country.

These men have all been a power in the community, ever taking high grounds, and being foremost in every work tending to the improvement of society.

Who of the " old timers " is there that does not remember Tampico, situated just south of the old Soap creek crossing on the old pack trail. A quarter of a century ago this was a place of considerable importance and famous for the " high jinks " held within its bar-rooms. But the glory of Tampico has departed, and for. years past it has been a pasture for browsing cattle and nibbling sheep ; only a few dilapidated houses remain. Ichabod ! Ichabod !

What is known as Gingle's School-house lies about a mile east of Wells Station, while the Halter School-house is situated in the hills a few miles west from Albany and near the ferry.

It may be stated, in conclusion, that there is still an opportunity for taking up a few Homesteads in the western portion of Soap Creek precinct.

King's Valley Precinct commences at the northern boundary of the county and extends to Mary's river on the south, about eight miles in length and from the eminence known as Norton Hill, on the road to Yaquina bay, to the divide between the waters of the Willamette and Luckiamute, an average width of about eight miles, its actual boundaries being the county line on the north, Philomath precinct on the south, Soap creek on the east, and Summit precinct on the west.

In an almost impenetrable jungle in the northwest, amid the Coast Range of mountains, the Luckiamute river rises and after flowing in an easterly direction, enters the northwest corner of the precinct, and reaching near its center, there turns suddenly to the north, forming King's Valley, it ultimately leaving the precinct near the central northern portion.

King's Valley is about six miles in length with a width of about two miles, and in the days of its first settlement was considered second to none as a luxuriant pastureground for stock, a notoriety which it still maiutains as a grain producing section of the county.

In the northwest, running due north and south, in the^bend of the Luckiamute, is a chain of hills, more or less open and mostly covered with fern, which affords most nutricious pasturage for cattle and sheep, besides which, a considerable portion is cultivable, yielding to its highest points good winter wheat. Lying to the east of the valley and running north and south, is a high ridge that forms the dividing line betwee the waters of the Luckiamute and Willamette rivers which extends to a point within three miles of the North Fork of Mary's river, where a spur shoots off in a southeasterly direction, while the main divide turns abruptly to the west, joining the divide between the Luckiamute and the North Fork thus completely hemming in King's Valley with the single exception of the embouchure to the north.

On either side of the North Fork of Mary's river is some excellent valley land the extent capable of cultivation extending high up on the slopes, while the smaller valleys on each hand are fertile and fruitful.

In regard to the settlement of King's Valley precinct, the honer of first locating within its boundaries is accorded to Nahum King who, with his family, arrived there in the year 1846, and located on the property now owned by the Chambers heirs and M. J. Conner. About the same time Rowland Chambers, Mr. King's son-in-law, settled, while Lucius Norton and his two sons also settled in the valley. The next to arrive was James Watson, in 1847, who purchased from Sol. King, the land now owned by his family. There came then, too, L. Vanbebber and family, who located about two miles east from Mr. Watson ; while, about 1848, Mr. Hayworth and family fixed his abode on the farm now in the possession of Mr. Vanbebber. In 1850, Washington Patterson located where T. F. Alexander at present resides.

The first school was taught in the valley in 1849, in a log building, now among the things that were, that stood where the Evangelical Church is, this latter edifice being erected in the year 1877. It was built by subscription and is a frame building about thirty-six by fifty feet in dimensions.

In 1856, there was established on the place where S. P. Frantz now resides, the military station of Fort Hoskins, where a company of troops were quartered until about the close of the year 1863. The prime mover in its organization was Captain (now General) Auger. Here in 1857 a sutler's store was opened, and in 1868 a store was erected on the site of that now standing. It was kept by C. G. Nelsou and after passing through various hands, is the property of William L. Price.

Chambers Grist Mill. - This mill is situated on the Luckiamute and was originally built by Messrs. Chambers and Runnels and is still the property of the widow of the first named gentleman. Here is a store, blacksmith's shop and the postoffice.

King's Valley Saw and Planing Mill. - This enterprise is located on the Luckiamute, on the west side of King's Valley, and was built in 1875 by S. P. Frantz and P. F. Stone. At the end of two years the latter sold out to Joseph Conner and in 1883 it passed wholly into the hands of Frantz Brothers the present proprietors. The capacity of the mill is ten thousand feet per day, and gives employment to six men. There is a planer attached to it, the wood used being principally fir.

Summit Precinct lies between the Yaquina country and Mary's river, extends from the county line on the north to the divide between the Yaquina and Little Elk rivers, and prolonged eastward on a coresponding line to Mary's river, and from east to west from the top of Norton Hill to the mouth of the Little Elk, being in the vicinity of six miles in length and about twelve in width. It is actually bounded on the north by the county line, on the south by Turn Turn precinct, on the west by Elk City precinct, and on the east by King's Valley precinct. Not far from its northeastern corner the Yaquina river enters Summit precinct, and running in a southwesterly direction for between two and three miles through a deep gorge in the mountains, when the couutry becomes more open and the bottoms wider, and flowing onwards leaves the precinct at its southwestern corner.

Entering the precinct from the northeast, a little to the east of the central point of its northern line and extending about a mile into it is Rock creek, the valley of which is about four miles in length and a quarter of a mile in width, flanked on either hand by low open hills. Between this point and the Siletz Reservation, which is some two miles from the western boundary of the precinct, there is but little bottom land ; but on the North Fork, which comes in from the north in the vicinity of the line of the Reservation, is a wide bushy bottom which is easily capable of reclamation. Steer and Brush creeks both join Rock creek near the lower end of the valley, the former making its entry from the northeast apd the latter from the southeast. On each of these streams are good bottom lands.

Midway between Rock creek and the Yaquina is a ridge of considerable altitude, running parallel with them, the hills on either side of which becoming gradually lower until the streams are attained. These are for the most part open and stock may roam about at will. After the Yaquina emerges from its mountain fastness we have some narrow bottom lands that are under cultivation, while the numerous small tributaries that join the Yaquina from the north and south all have along their margins good

In 1856, there was established on the place where S. P. Frantz now resides, the military station of Fort Hoskins, where a company of troops were quartered until about the close of the year 1863. The prime mover in its organization was Captain (now General) Auger. Here in 1857 a sutler's store was opened, and in 1868 a store was erected on the site of that now standing. It was kept by C. G. Nelson and after passing through various hands, is the property of William L. Price.

Chambers Grist Mill. - This mill is situated on the Luckiamute and was originally built by Messrs. Chambers and Runnels and is still the property of the widow of the first named gentleman. Here is a store, blacksmith's shop and the postoffice.

King's Valley Saw and Planing Mill. - This enterprise is located on the Luckiamute, on the west side of King's Valley, and was built in 1875 by 8. P. Frantz and P. F. Stone. At the end of two years the latter sold out to Joseph Conner and in 1883 it passed wholly into the hands of Frantz Brothers the present proprietors. The capacity of the mill is ten thousand feet per day, and gives employment to six men. There is a planer attached to it, the wood used being principally fir.

Summit Precinct lies between the Yaquina country and Mary's river, extends from the county line on the north to the divide between the Yaquina and Little Elk rivers, and prolonged eastward on a coresponding line to Mary's river, and from east to west from the top of Norton Hill to the mouth of the Little Elk, being in the vicinity of six miles in length and about twelve in width. It is actually bounded on the north by the county line, on the south by Turn Turn precinct, on the west by Elk City precinct, and on the east by King's Valley precinct. Not far from its northeastern corner the Yaquina river enters Summit precinct, and running in a southwesterly direction for between two and three miles through a deep gorge in the mountains, when the country becomes more open and the bottoms wider, and flowing onwards leaves the precinct at its southwestern corner.

Entering the precinct from the northeast, a little to the east of the central point of its northern line and extending about a mile into it is Rock creek, the valley of which is about four miles in length and a quarter of a mile in width, flanked on either hand by low open hills. Between this point and the Siletz Reservation, which is some two miles from the western boundary of the precinct, there is but little bottom land ; but on the North Fork, which comes in from the north in the vicinity of the line of the Reservation, is a wide bushy bottom which is easily capable of reclamation. Steer and Brush creeks both join Rock creek near the lower end of the valley, the former making its entry from the northeast ajid the latter from the southeast. On each of these streams are good bottom lands.

Midway between Rock creek and the Yaquina is a ridge of considerable altitude, running parallel with them, the hills on either side of which becoming gradually lower until the streams are attained. These are for the most part open and stock may roam about at will. After the Yaquina emerges from its mountain fastness we have some narrow bottom lands that are under cultivation, while the numerous small tributaries that join the Yaquina from the north and south all have along their margins good though limited lands. Three miles south of the river the divide, which marks the southern boundary of the precinct, is gained, while, it may be observed, that during summer and winter stock roam at large and thrive.

A little south of the Yaquina, the North Fork of Mary's river rises and enters the precinct a short distance south of its northeast corner, after which flows nearly due south. It lies about five hundred feet higher than the waters that flow directly into the ocean, and is a tributary of the Willamette.

Along the banks of Mary's river was once a region covered with thick undergrowth, but this has all been cleared and cultivated, and although the land reclaimed is not of the first quality, being damp and cold, still with drainage it could be made to yield abundantly. Near the Summit, on the hills contiguous to Mary's river, as well as on the western slope of Summit Hill are large groves of timber, from which the Oregon Pacific Railroad Company have drawn their supplies for building, while, in one of these, in the vicinage of Mary's river, they have a saw mill in which a large amount of lumber has been manufactured.

The line of the Oregon Pacific Railroad crosses the summit near the wagon road, and then takes a northerly direction. When it is taken into consideration that in a distance of but little more than a mile there is a descent of six or seven hundred feet, the difficulties to be surmounted by the company in this portion of the route will be appreciated. The labor of location has been prodigious. In this declension it has been necessary to make two tunnels, one of which, No. 1, being six hundred and seventy and the other, No. 2, three hundred and fifty feet; while there are deep cuttings besides and high tressels.

The industries of Summit precinct are very miuh the same as in the western portions of the county. Cattle and sheep raising, although carried on only to a limited extent, is usually attended with profit, while the farmers in the cultivation of their lands have aimed to produce such crops as are needed to supply the demand of travel on the road, thus furnishing a market for the fruits of their labor.

Portions of Summit precinct have been settled for a number of years, but these have been chiefly confined to the margin of the Yaquina and Mary's rivers, but it has not been ] »ossible to obtain any precise information as to who these were. A. J. Porter was among the earliest to take up his abode within its bounds and there his widow still lives.

The Warren Brothers, a view of whose place will be found in this history, enterprising young Englishmen, own several hundred acres of land at the foot of Summit hill, which they yearly improve and which they are fast bringing into a state of perfection. Their motto has been to carefully till the ground and rear the stock and in the future the labor of the present will have its reward. These extremely hospitable gentlemen and such like them, are a great acquisition to any country, and prove with much success what application to business and integrity of purpose, with honesty in business relations can effect.