Benton County, Oregon - Chapter 50: Yaquina Precnct, 1885

Yaquina Precinct extends along the coast from the north line of the county to Lower Alsea precinct, at Beaver creek, and is about fifteen miles from north to south and four miles east and west, being bounded on the north by Tillamook county, on the south by Lower Alsea precinct, on the west by the Pacific ocean, and on the east by Toledo precinct.

After considerable delay and much discontent, early in January, 1866, intelligence was received that the country along the Yaquina river and bay was to be thrown open to settlers, a decision that instilled new vigor into the life of -the promoters of the wagon road through that then little known country, thus reassuring them that their labor was not thrown away. Aside from any other consideration the land opened to settlement was a great acquisition to Benton county, while from the position of the bay it promised all the ah vantages of a channel of transportation and a trade by the road and the bay with San Francisco, which would accomplish a great good if it did nothing else than reduce the prices of freight on general transprotation from other points. Thus we see the little cloud no bigger than a man's hand that was afterwards to expand into the railroad now completed and the line of steamers in connection with it between Yaquina bay and the metropolis of California.

Register and Receiver, Oregon City, Oregon: Gentlemen - Inclosed herewith I transmit you a diagram of Oregon, wherein is represented in red ink a portion of the Coast Reservation for Indian purposes, lying on the Pacific, which, by order of the President of the United States, was released on the twenty-first ultimo. It is described as follows, to-wit

The land released from the reservation at this time, in accordance with the above, excerpt of a dispatch from the Commissioner of Indian affairs, was included within the following boundaries :

" Commencing at a point two miles south of the Siletz Agency : thence west to the ocean ; thence south along the ocean to the mouth of Alsea river ; thence up said river to the eastern boundary of the reservation ; thence north along said eastern boundary to a point due east of the place of beginning."

with any persons settling upon the lands relieved, so long as the intercourse laws were obeyed and they conducted themselves properly. He also referred to the acts of Congress, approved June 30, 1834, March 3, 1847, February 13, 1862, and March 15, 1864, and stated the fact, besides, that the lands on the western slope of the Coast mountains were unpurchased Indian country, the title to which was vested in the Indians, and settlers going there did so at their own hazard.

"Section 20. That if any person shall sell, exchange, give, barter or dispose of any spirituous liquor or wine to any Indians under the charge of any Superintendent or Indian Agent appointed by the United States, or shall introduce or attempt to introduce any spirituous liquor or wine into the Indian country, such person, on conviction thereof before the proper District or Circuit Court of the United States, shall be imprisoned for a period not exceeding two years, and shall be fined not more than three hundred dollars. And if any Superintendent of Indian affairs, Indian Agent or subagent or commanding officer of a military post has reason to suspect, or is informed that any white person or Indian is about to introduce or has introduced any spirituous liquor or wine into the Indian country, it shall be lawful for such Superintendent, agent, sub-agent or commanding officer, to cause the boats, stores, packages, wagons, sleds and places of deposit of such person to be searched, and if any such liquor is found therein, the same, together with the boats, teams, wagons and sleds used in conveying the same, and also the goods, packages and peltries of such persons shall be seized and delivered to the proper officer, and shall be proceeded against, by libel, in the proper court, and forfeited, one-half to the informer and the other half to the use of the United States ; and if such person be a trader his license shall be revoked and his bond put in suit. And it shall moreover be the duty of any person in the service of the United States, or for any Indians to take and destroy any ardent spirits or wine found in the Indian country, except such as may be introduced therein by lhe War Department. And in all cases arising under this act Indians shall be competent witnesses."

" On the eighth of August, 1864, this office laid before the Secretary of the Interior a communication dated at Corvallis, Oregon, respecting the discovery of a harbor on the coast directly opposite the center of the Willamette valley and recommended that a town site be laid out and opened for sale by the Government ; the locality of the newly discovered harbor being represented as affording peculiar advantages for the rapid building up of a town. These views may be fully carried out by pursuing either one or the other course indicated in the following, viz :

" First - By a reservation under the first section of the act of Congress, approved March 3, 1863, vol. 12, p. 754, authorizing the President to 6 reserve from the public lands whether surveyed or unsurveyed, town-sites on the shores of harbors, at the junction of rivers, important portages, or prospective centers of population/ or by

" Second. - The municipal residents availing themselves of the privileges of so much of the act of July 1, 1864, as relates to the disposal of town property, and of the act of March 3, 1865, supplemental thereto. Herewith I inclose circulars dated August 20, 1864 and April 21, 1865, containing instructions in view of said acts.

" If the actual residents are numerous enough to make out and establish a town and can properly meet the requirements of said acts of July 1, 1864, and March 3, 1865, they have the right to do so ; but if the condition of things is such that the existing residents cannot at once make the premises available under said acts of 1864 and 1865, it will be the duty of the Department to submit a plan indicating the limits of a suitable reservation under said act of 1863, and if after notice to the municipal residents no step is taken by them to secure the privileges conceded by the laws mentioned under the second head, then you will forward to this office a plat exhibiting in the most exact manner that the natural features of the land will admit, the limits and extent which would be recommended to the President as a reservation."

" In conformity with the foregoing instructions the actual residents of the town or city on the harbor therein mentioned, are hereby notified to avail themselves of the privileges of the said acts of July 1, 1864, and March 3, 1865 ; if they desire to do so, by filing with the Recorder of the county in which the town or city is situate, the plat thereof, describing its exterior boundaries, which plat, or map, must exhibit the name of the town or city, the streets, squares, blocks, lots or alleys, the size of the same, with actual measurements and area of each municipal division, and a statement of the extent and general character of improvements ; such a map and statement to be verified by oath of the party acting for or in behalf of the town or city ; and within one month after filing the map or plat, with the Recorder of the county, a verified copy of said map and statement must be sent to the Commissioner of the General Land Office, with the testimony of two witnesses that such town has been established in good faith, and a similar copy of the map and statement must be filed in this office. The town or city being on unsurveyed land the exterior lines of the same must be distinctly marked and established, so that, when the lines of the public surveys shall hereafter be run they may be properly closed thereon ; and yet it may be lawful to adjust the exterior of the limits of the premises with the lines of the public surveys, when it can be done without impairing the rights of others."

It may be interesting to note in regard to the manner of disposing of lots, that the act of July 1, 1864, referred to above, provides that such city or town shall not exceed in area six hundred and forty acres, while lots shall not be more than four thousand two hundred square feet. At auy time after filing the map of the city or town in the General Land Office, it shall and may be lawful for the President to cause the lots to be offered at public sale, to the highest bidder, subject to a minimum of ten dollars for each lot ; and such lots as are offered and not sold shall thereafter be subject to private entry at the minimum, or at such decrease or diminution as the Secretary of the Interior may order. As to the mode of getting immediate possession of lots with assurance of obtaining good titles in the future. - Any actual settler upon any one lot, and upon any additional lot on which he may have substantial improvements, shall be entitled to prove up and purchase the same as a pre-emption at said minimum of ten dollars, at any time before the day fixed for the public sale.

Upon the promulgation of the intelligence that the portion of the Siletz Reservation lying between Alsea river on the south and Cape Fouiweather on the north was opened for settlement there was a great rush to the region. Since then the country has been peopled with an industrious and permanent population, chiefly from the Western States. The climate of " The Bay " as the entire district is usually called, is pleasant and healthy ; fevers, ague and the ailments peculiar to malarious places are here unknown. Many people come annually to the place to recuperate failing constitutions and gather strength after illness, invariably attended with most desirable results. As a watering place for pleasure seekers, Yaquina bay has no equal in Oregon, combining picturesque scenery, salubrious climate, excellent water and the finest opportunities for sailing and fishing.

The soil is rich, even to the summits of the highest mountains. The country, however, is rough and broken, covered with dead timber and where the soil is best the undergrowth is thickest, though in no case can the cost of preparation for cultivation compare with like lands in the Middle or Western States. Wheat, oats, barley, rye and buckwheat do well ; corn, in some seasons, makes a fair crop ; timothy, and, in fact, all grasses are heavy and thrifty. Owing to the mildness of the winter, stock do well the year through with but little feed - and in some seasons none. All kinds of vegetables yield largely and of the finest quality. Fruit compares favorably with any other part of the State, while berries, both native and cultivated, grow abundantly.

The timber for building purposes and shipment is fir ; several million feet of lumber being annually shipped to California. Coal has been found in many localities, on and near the bay, the quality being good, while so marked are the indications that it is highly probable a valuable coal bank will be finally discovered. Gold mines on the beach (the gold being very fine and mixed with almost inseparable, heavy, black sand) have been worked at times, for several years past, with indifferent success. Oysters, in large quantities, have been shipped to San Francisco, the beds of which are healthy and thriving. Eastern oysters transplanted grow finely. Salmon fishing would pay if properly managed, the fall run being the largest. A good quality of cod fish is caught five or six miles off shore, while sea bass, halibut, and other varieties are plentiful.

Several schooners and steamers have been built in Yaquina bay and enough has been done in that line to show conclusively that ship-building might be made a paying business. Steam saw-mills are in operation, while the region is well supplied with school facilities. A large portion of the country, back from the river, is unsurveyed and much of this is the best grazing land. A good wagon road from Newport to Corvallis, sixty miles in length, adds stability to all enterprise and improvement and with the railroad of the Oregon Pacific Company, promises much for the future of the bay.

It will now be our duty to present to the reader such information as we have been able to gather concerning Yaquina bay. The believers in the commercial advantages of this ha rbor were made jubilant by the receipt, March 14, 1868, of the following correspondence : of the Secretary of the Treasury to my letter urging the survey of Yaquina bay. I have no doubt but it will have early attention. If you think it best, you can have the Secretary's answer published in your local paper, that the petitioners may know that their request has been attended to.

H. W. Corbett." Treasury Department, January 23, 1868. To Hon. H. W. Corbett, U. S. Senate: Sir - Yours of the tenth instant, inclosing petition from certain citizens of Oregon, asking for the survey of ' Yaquina Bay,' having been referred to the Superintendent of Coast Surveys, I have the honor to inclose herewith a copy of his report, from which it will be seen that a party was organized last year for the survey of several small bays on the coast of Oregon, but in consequence of the loss of the leader of the party, drowned in the breakers on the bar at Tillamook, Oregon, the work was delayed; further, that it is his intention to organize another party as early as the season will admit, for survey of the - Yaquina 9 and other bays and harbors on that coast. I am, etc.,

Coast Survey Office, ) Washington, January 22, 1868. j To Hon. H. McCulloch, Sec'y Treasury, Washington, D. C: Sir - I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt ofyoursof January eleventh, transmitting letter from Hon. H. W. Corbett, United States Senate, inclosing petition from certain citizens of Oregon, asking for the survey of ' Yaquina bay,' and in answer beg leave to state that a party was organized last year for surveying the several small bays on the coast of Oregon, and Mr. Kinchloe placed in charge. The survey of Tillamook was nearly completed when Mr. Kinchloe was drowned by the swamping of his boat in the breakers on the bar. Having no officer who could be employed for the continuance of the work, the party was disbanded. Had Mr. Kinchloe's life been spared, the survey of 4 Yaquina Bay,' the next in order, would have been finished during the last year. I propose to organize another party to begin the work as early as the season will admit, for the survey of 4 Yaquina ' and other bays and harbors on the coast of Oregon.

Washington, January 27, 1868. Friend CHENOWETH,Corvallis : - Yours of the fourteenth December duly received, contents noted. I am informed by the Secretary of the Treasury that the Yaquina Bay shall be surveyed next spring, early. Through R. Irwin, Esq., of your place, I received a long petition for it and for a post route. The answer of the Secretary of the Treasury I sent to Irwin. I have introduced a bill for the establishment of a post route from Corvallis to Newport. As to the Indians, no settled policy is as yet agreed upon. There is one thing certain, they must live somewhere, whether we will let them continue their tribulations, or citizenize them as some desire, thereby absorb them into the white population, is the question to determine.

These communications evince an unmistakable desire on the part of the Government to cause the much needed survey to be made and it was not long before the proper instructions therefor were communicated to this coast. In July, 1868, the actual survey was commenced, and in the Corvallis Gazette of October 17, 1868, the following report of A. W. Chase, United States Coast Survey, was published :

" The entrance to Yaquina Bay is situated on the coast of Oregon, approximate : Lat. 44° 40" 30 *, Lon. 124° 03* West ; one hundred and five miles south of the mouth of the Columbia river.

" In approaching it from sea, should it be a clear day, navigators will first make out a peculiar square topped mountain, covered with dead pine trees, giving it a whitish color. This mountain, known as Alsea mountain, is on the head waters of the river of the same name, and is from sea apparently to the south and east of the entrance of Yaquina.

"On nearing the shore, if coming from southward, a cluster of detached rocks will be seen about a mile from the sand beach and outlined against it. These rocks are called the ' Seal-ille-hee ' or Seal Rocks, and are (aporoximate) eight miles below the mouth of the Yaquina, and between it and the Alsea river.

" Three and one-half miles to the north of Yaquina Heads, is a remarkable cape, known as Cape Foulweather. It is perfectly bare of timber, extends one mile out from the beach, and consists of two conical hills ; the inner one four hundred and seven, the outer three hundred and sixty feet above the low water mark ; and terminates in a tongue or point of rocks, with one large detached islet lying off its extreme end. This cape being a very prominent laudmark and unlike any other on the coast line, will identify the position of Yaquina entrance at once, if the mountains are not visible.

" The north shore, or ' Head ' of Yaquina entrance consists of a bluff one hundred and thirty feet high, of sandstone formation, showing yellow from the sea. This bluff is crowned with an isolated grove of pine or fir trees, some dead and some alive. On its seaward face a beacon or signal has been erected, the base of which is one hundred and twenty feet high, directly under it, and extending towards the bar is a flat rock oblong in shape.

" The south beach is low and sandy, backed by sand dunes, and still farther back by a low range of hills bare of timber, on the highest of which a flagstaff (one hundred and fifty-eight feet at base) has been erected for celebrations, etc. This flagstaff has been boarded up thirty feet from the ground to serve as a beacon or range for entering the harbor (to be mentioned hereafter.) Back from thes hills there is a long ridge covered with a dense forest of living fir trees. On the point of the south beach, seen from sea, the roof of a large house, new 1868, will show prominently.

" The first danger in approaching the harbor of Yaquina consists of a ledge of rocks running parallel with the general trend of the shore line and distant from one to one and three-fourths miles from it. This ledge (so far as surveyed) culminates in a rock one and one-quarter miles from shore and two and one-third miles south-southwest of the North Head, on which there is but twelve and a half feet at mean low water. On this rock the sea breaks at low tide and in heavy weather. Running from this rock to the northward the ledge sinks. Opposite the entrance it again rises, the shoalest spot being but six feet below the surface at mean low water. The extent of shoal water is about six hundred yards in length, the reef then sinks again rising in isolated spots to thirteen feet below the surface until it terminates at Cape Foulweather. Between this reef and the bar there is a good channel over five hundred yards wide with an average depth of twenty -four feet (mid low water).

" The bar is formed partly by a sand spit making out from the south beach and partly by a double reef of rocks extending from the North Head. The outermost reef starts from a point three hundred and thirty-eight yards north of the large rock below mentioned and ends with a line of Kelp on the north edge of the channel. Three hundred yards from its shore end and one hundred and fifty yards from the edge of the channel, there is a rock awash at low water. The inner reef starts from the large rock and runs two hundred and twenty yards out, terminating at the edge of the channel also. Between the sand-spit and this reef runs the north, or rather the only welldefined channel existing at the present time. Through this channel, choosing the best water, vessels will not get a shoaler cast than nine feet at mean low water, or sixteen and one-half to seventeen feet mean high water.

" At its most narrow part, there is a width of one hundred and sixty-eight feet, carrying nine feet ; four hundred and twenty feet carrying eight feet ; and six hundred feet carrying seven feet. The shoal water is six hundred yards across in the channel, vessel getting seventeen and eighteen feet up to it and inside.

" On the sand-spit before mentioned there is, in some places, a depth of only two or three feet at low water, and the sea breaks over it almost constantly. The vessels formerly running in and out of the bay crossed this sand-spit. On their ranges we found two and one-half feet in the shoalest spot at mean low water.

" As better water has always been claimed for these ranges, I am inclined to think that the sand-spit is shifting and would probably show an increased depth of water after the winter gales. The main current of the river sets very strongly towards this spit at ebb tide. The channels, on the contrary, may shoal some in winter, but having one rocky edge the channel will, it is probable, retain its depth in summer.

" The shoal water in crossing the bar through the channel continues so short a distance and the channel itself is so straigh and well defined in ordinary weather, by the breakers on each side, that with a pilot or chart to guide them, vessels drawing ten, twelve, or even fifteen feet can, by choosing the time of tide, enter and depart with perfect safety.

" In this it has a decided advantage over the more tortuous channels of other places on the coast. Should the harbor become of sufficient importance to justify it, a steam tug could take vessels out and in, drawing even more than the above mentioned depth of water. * * *

" The soundings are all reduced to mean low water, viz : a mean of the lowest of low waters observed during the progress of the survey. The mean rise of the tide is seven and a half feet. At the full and change of the moon, the high waters will rise higher, and the low waters fall lower than the above, and consequently, the depth of water on the bar will be greater at high tide and lower at low tide. In heavy northern west or southeast weather, the tides are sensibly affected by the wind. The highest tide ever known here from that course rose fifteen feet above the plane of reference. A beacon has been erected on the sand dunes back of the south beach to be kept in range with the flagstaff to enter the north channel through the best water.

Sailing Directions. - Vessels bound for the Yaquina Bay, after making the landmarks before mentioned, should not run in closer than twelve fathoms, until they get the signal on Light House Point (or rather North Head) to north-east-a-quartereast; then run for it until range signals are on.

"The range signals are a beacon erected on the sand dunes directly back of the beach, and the flagstaff on the hill behind. These are to be kept in range until the water deepens to three fathoms, and the slide or diamond-shaped hill on the north side of the bay bears north-by-east-a-half-east; then run for it until opposite the town. Anchor above the houses, in the stream, and as close to the shore as the vessel will swing; lower down, the holding is bad and the current, on the ebb, very strong."

Thus at last Yaquina bay was officially surveyed, and that such was undertaken, is mainly due to the untiring exertions of Senator H. W. Corbett, whose indefatigable lalwrs and unfeigned interest in the matter was fully appreciated by the people of Benton county. No time was lost in improving the facilities for navigation. Congress on March 27, 1869, provided for the erection of a lighthouse, the construction of which, was not to be delayed for the want of the consent of the State Legislature to the purchase of the site; while, April 23, 1870, intelligence was received through Senator George H. Williams, that the House Committee on Appropriations had agreed to put into the pending Appropriation Bill twenty thousand dollars for harbor lights, and promised at the following session to grant ninety thjasand dollars for a lighthouse and fog-signal at Cape Foul weather, thus making the destiny of the bay manifest. Besides this the Treasury Department, under date March 18, 1870, gave instructions to take the earliest opportunity to have the entrance to the bay properly buoyed; while, May 30, 1870, the government steamer Shubrick crossed l he bar and demonstrated the practicability of the port for steamer trade.

Up to May 3, 1873, the Government had expealed one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, or more, in establishing lighthouses, one at the entrance of Yaquina bay, and one three miles above it, which furnished employment to a large number of resident citizens, and in that way disbursed funds amongalnrge number of workmen. The benefits of these undertakings were quickly apparent. Mail facilities were increased; a fine lumber mill was erected, and it seemed that a period of average prosperity was about to dawn upon the citizens on and about the bay. Roads too, were built and a railroad company organized; a steamboat had been built; new stores were opened, and signs of encouraging good fortune were apparent on every hand. A fine large schooner had been constructed and launched, that made successful trips to San Francisco, while much time and meafcis were used in preparing for a profitable trade in the different productions of the district. But instead of all these bright hopes being pushed to successful results, few have advanced to full fruition.

As to the advantages of Yaquina bay being a harbor comparatively easy of approach, let us mention one of many instances in proof of the assertion. In the month of March, 1878, a coastiug schooner, the Lizzie Madison, from Humboldt bay to San Francisco, was driven by a series of southeast gales far out of her course. She reached Umpqua bar, signalled for a tug, but none came. A consultation was held. The alternatives were beaching or risking passage of the Columbia bar. Suddenly, the captain, C. M. Nisson, determined to attempt entering Yaquina bay. He made Foulweather light at midnight. With his vessel drawing eight feet, he, guided by the published directions to mariners, on making the port, sailed, in the midst of storm, through a protected channel and entered the bay in safety, a fact, single though it be, emphatically proving that Yaquina bay is easily approachable by vessels of ordinary draft, while the harbor, land-locked and secure, once inside is safe and unexposed.

Under date December 12, 1879, Hon. John Whiteaker, member of Congress, writes to the late W. B. Carter, editor of the Corvallis Gazette, to the following effect :

" As soon as possible after the holiday recess, I intend introducing a bill for the improvement of Oregon's harbors and the mouth of the Columbia river ; and knowing the deep interest you take in anything relating to Yaquina bay, I address you for the purpose of having you send me all the information possible on the subject. Write me what is really needed as an appropriation ; what work must be done, and the benefits to accrue. Let your arguments be brief and based upon unquestionable authority. As you know, in a matter of this kind, we have no time for rhetorical flights," etc.

In reply to this communication, Mr. Carter, who was ill at the time, handed it over to Mr. Wallis Nash, who penned an able answer, dated January 5, 1880, embodying the following information :

"1. No change has taken place since Mr. Chase's survey in 1868 in the bar or obstruction, which is thus proved to be permanent and immovable in character.

" 2. The obstruction is not more than one hundred and fifty yards across, from forty feet depth on the outside to thirty feet on the inside.

" 3. There are three entrances through the reef: north, middle and south, with a minimum depth now of twelve feet at low water, and a rise of 7.8 inches to mean high water.

" 4. There is a protecting outer reef, one and one-half miles out, which covers the entrance ; receives and breaks up the heavy seas in all storms, and prevents the deposit of sand in the channel.

" 5. There is ample anchorage within the harbor to take in ships of any burden, and deep water close in shore for several miles in extent, enabling ships to load aud deliver cargo with ease, safety and celerity.

"7. The reef or obstruction consists of moderately soft sandstone rock, easily removable by blasting, but affording firm and permanent foundation for the short sea walls, not exceeding one-fourth of a mile in length, by which it is proposed to close the north and south channels, thus confining the current within the center channel, increasing the scour and preventing the deposit of sand.

"8. Abundance of good building stone is available in close proximity to the places where it will be needed for the sea walls above referred to.

" 9. The entrance to the harbor is safe and easy during the prevalence of winds from south, southwest, west, north and northwest. The prevailing winds on the coast

" The expenditure of from six hundred thousand to seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars would probably provide entrance for vessels exceeding two thousand tons burthen, with sea walls and light house at the entrance. The harbor would be by far the best on the Pacific coast between San Francisco and Puget Sound. It would require three years to complete the whole.

" 1. The opening to exports and imports of a fertile region exceediug five hundred thousand acres in extent, at present entirely without the means of exporting produce save at a cost exceeding the value of the articles, and paying for their imports rates which, by the cost of carriage are now double the prices in places of easy access.

" 2. The provision for the whole of the middle and upper parts of the Willamette valley, and indeed for Middle and Southern Oregon generally, of a shorter and cheaper route for both passengers and goods - one never closed by ice, or made inaccessible by storms - saving, say between San Francisco and the center of the Willamette valley, not less than two hundred and twenty miles in actual distance, and quite half the time now involved in that journey.

" 3. The opening of a port where vessels would be available at a freight certainly one dollar and fifty cents per ton less than now charged to Portland from any southern or foreign port, and free from the charges and delays involved in the Columbia bar and pilotage.

" 4. The opening of a bay for lumbering and ship-building purposes, where the very best natural advantages exist, and whence large exports of lumber, coal, building stone, fish, oysters and farming produce will be made. Lumber mills, ship-building yards and oyster beds have already been opened and only await the means of export for further development.

" 5. For the whole of Oregon a point of export and import will be provided only sixty miles from the heart of the Willamette valley, independent in itself, (and by t^^e^ ,, ^ railroad which will reach it,) of the powerful railroad and steamboat corporation which now controls so much of the traffic of the State.

" 6. A large saving, both of money and time will be effected in the arrangements now current for the carriage of the United States mails through this district.

" 8. For the promotion of these objects strenuous and determined efforts will be made by really all the rapidly growing population of the middle and lower countries of the State, all of which are fully alive to their importance."

With all these above noted advantages laid before them the Congressional heart was touched ; besides a petition signed by three thousaud four hundred farmers and traders of the Willamette valley praying for an appropriation of two hundred and forty thousand dollars to improve the entrance to Yaquina bay so that heavy-laden ships of deep draught could enter to deliver and receive cargo. To effect this the bar, which, as we have seen, consists of sand, deposited on a rocky ledge, which is from twelve to thirteen feet below the surface of the water - the bench of rocks being twenty- four feet - and these beiug at rare intervals swept bare by the the action of the current, to make this increased depth permanent is the design of the government works now being proceeded with. A jetty is being constructed from the point south of the entrance, which is to be extended a distance of two thousand six hundred feet directly west to deep water outside of the bar, by which means the southern channel will be effectually closed, thus driving all the water through the middle passage, scouring it of sand and increasing its depth. Work was commenced in 1881 under a grant of forty thousand dollars made in the session of 1880, two-thirds of which was required for plant - docks, tugs, scows, donkey-engines, etc. In 1881, an allowance of ten thousand dollars was made, although twenty-five thousand was the amount recommended by the engineers ; in 1882, sixty thousand dollars was granted ; in 1883 no appropriation was made; and in 1884, Congress appropriated the sum of fifty thousand dollars. The works, under J. S. Polhemus, C. E., are now at an advanced stage while their benefit is already made apparent by a greater depth of water. The rock used in the construction of the breakwater, which is built of brush mattresses, cribs and heavy stone, is hard and durable and is brought from a quarry on the Yaquina river, fourteen miles from the point, in scows, a slow and expensive proceeding and the most costly item of the improvement. It is probable that another jetty will be constructed from the north point, protecting the channel from sands from that direction, and causing the water to flow through one outlet, thus by the concentrated force made available by both breakwaters, the rocks will be laid bare, and made more accessible when it becomes necessary to increase the depth by blasting.

We have already noticed the fact that ninety thousand dollars was appropriated in the year 1870, for building a lighthouse at Cape Foul weather, was at once proceeded with. It is a grand structure, about one hundred and sixty feet from the water and about ninety feet above the base. The ascent is made by circular stairs, some eight flights, handsomely ornamented. The light is of the first order, while the tower, Keeper's residence, grounds, etc., exhibit exquisite taste and skill in design and workmanship, but above all, it has proved an inestimable boon to mariners on the coast. But we are among those who think that here Nature plauned a harbor of refuge for ships in distress - "'tis but thy name that is thine enemy." At Cape Foulweather the Great Architect of the Universe has formed a secure harbor and completed two-thirds of the work of constructing a breakwater. From its western point extends in a southerly direction a broken reef of rocks almost awash at low water, with here and there deep gaps that could be utilized as entrances ; while, from Yaquina Head, three miles and a half south, another similar reef extends in a westerly direction, toward the termination of that first mentioned. Here then is a foundation laid by Nature, firm as the " rock-bound coast " itself, for a breakwater, inclosing a harbor under the lee of Cape Foulweather, in which, even now, the sea rarely ever breaks, and ships have frequently safely ridden out a northeasterly gale. This harbor is three miles long by two wide, with from ten to thirty fathoms of water and good holding ground - a finer anchorage is not to be found on the entire northwest coast of the American continent.

For the purpose of bringing these advantages before the proper authorities, and as the subject of a harbor of refuge was occupying public attention at the time, in June, 1877, W. B. Higley was actively engaged in circulating petitions for signature in Ben-

That a breakwater, or harbor of refuge, somewhere on the Pacific coast north of San Francisco is a necessity, is a fact so evident and so universally admitted that it is hardly worth while to question it. All sea-faring men know that this coast in the winter season is a dangerous one; and even in summer anything but pleasant If proof were necessary, we might point to the large number of vessels that stand on the list as missing. And it is not strange that this should be the case when we consider m that on a whole coast line of about twelve hundred miles there is but one harbor, (San Francisco) that can be entered in nearly all kinds of weather while there are times when even this is not approachable.

Between San Francisco and Cape Flattery, a distance of about seven hundred miles, the coast is mostly bold and rugged, with not one inlet, island, cape or headland behind which a vessel might find shelter from the heavy winter gales. And so many a poor mariner has seen his disabled and helpless vessel sinking under him, perhaps in sight of land, whose appearance only increases his danger, for to attempt to enter any of the few bar harbors along the coast would be rushing to certain destruction. The propriety of locating such a harbor to the north of San Francisco could never be questioned. The line of bad weather is not only north of San Francisco, but north of Cape Mendocino, therefore it stands to reason that a point between Cape Mendocino and Cape Flatery should be chosen.

It is not our purpose to draw comparisons between the merits of Trinidad, Crescent City, Port Orford, Cape Arago, and others ; nor is it our intention to cavil at any selection from among these that may have been made. Our desire is to perpetuate the fact that a spot exists eminently fitted for the construction of a harbor of refiige, on the western shore of Benton county, and which, as the fleet of vessels engaged in the coast trade increases, must eventually have the whole attention of the "powers that be." We allude to Cape Foulweather which is situated in Lat. 44° 4& and is about ninety miles south of the Columbia river and about three and three-fourths miles north of Yaquina bay.

The preliminary steps for a survey was ordered by Congress, March 5, 1878, in order to make a choice between two places selected, viz: Port Orford and Cape Foulweather, and that year the survey was completed and the following report made by Robert A. Habersham, Assistant Engineer:

"I have the honor to submit the following report of a survey 'at Cape Foulweather, to assertain its adaptability as a harbor of refuge/ with a general plan of improvement and an approximate estimate of its cost, made in pursuance of your instructions dated August the eighth, of the present year.

"This work was performed between the ninth and twenty-third of the same month. To save repitition I will here state that all depths given refer, unless otherwise specified, to the lowest of mean low tides, as nearly as could be determined from the tide tables for the Pacific coast, published in San Francisco, and from information furnished by residents of the locality.

"From Yaquina Head, which makes the north side of the entrance to Yaquina river, the shore line runs a little to the east of north for four miles, to the end of South Foulweather beach; thence westward for three-fourths of a mile to the southwest elbow of the cape, where it begins to curve northward and eastward until it reaches the extreme point of Cape Foulweather, which points north ; thence southeast, curving round to east, to the point where the cape joins the mainland again ; thence north for about seven miles, to a point known as Old Cape Foulweather.

"The shore line of Cape Foulweather proper describes the figure of a half crescent, the curved top pointing north. From this point a reef makes out in a nearly direct line, course north-northeast, for five thousand and twenty-five feet, terminating in a bare rock, which, for convenience, I have called Round Rock, distant one thousand eight hundred feet from the low tide line on the north beach, and immediately opposite Rocky Point, a vertical cliff formed of rock of the same character, of which it was formerly a portion, as the soundings show a well marked ridge connecting them about four fathoms under water.

"The depths on this long reef, which is uearly flat on its crest, vary from ten to thirty feet from Round Rock to within twelve hundred feet of the cape, where a depression occurs which shows from thirty to forty feet; the center being the deepest. The north side of this gap is marked by a rock on which the swell breaks constantly and which is said to be bare at extreme low tide.

" It is seen that the cape forms two bays, one fronting northwest, the other south and southwest. The north bay, the outlines of which have just been given, is inclosed on the east by the mainland ; on the south and southwest by the cape ; on the west by the long reef ; and on the north by the reef which connects Round Rock with Rocky Point. It is nearly one mile in length and one-third of a mile across, the width being measured from the curve of eighteen feet depth to the west reef, and contains about two hundred acres. The bottom is sandy, generally smooth forming good holding ground as far as can be judged, no vessel or craft of any kind having up to this time entered here that I can learn. The depths vary from three to eight fathoms.

"The south bay, so called, is open to the south and west. It is bounded on the north by the cape and on the east by the mainland. The bottom is sandy, sloping seaward, the depth increasing uniformly from near the beach, where it is eighteen feet, to twenty fathoms at a distance of two miles from the shore. The general depth on a line drawn south from the cape is from four to six fathoms. It is rather a roadstead than a bay ; and while it is easy of access from the ocean in any direction, is sheltered only from north and east winds, which are never violent.

"From Yaquina Head to the north end of Foulweather beach the shore presents a slope of from fifty to eighty degrees, tolerably uniform in direction generally, but much broken by sharp points and by ravines and small valleys. The face of the cliff shows soft sandstone overlying at greater or less depths a bed of marl filled with fossil shells. Numerous small veins of water trickle down the face of the sandstone, softening it and contributing to the destructive action of the weather, while the marl underneath is continually wearing away under the heavy blows of the surf.

" Between Yaquina Head and the cape four streams large enough to furnish good water power, flowing through small valleys more or less heavily timbered, enter the ocean. Except in these valleys the vegetation, although luxuriant, is of small growth and consists of salal, whortleberry, feru and scattered spruce scrubs. The beach is from three hundred to eight hundred feet wide, generally sandy, but the frequent occurrence of rocks above the surface show that the sand has little depth. The shore north of the cape is of the same general character.

"Cape Foul weather is a promontory, covered with a thick carpet of grass and fern, making out from the continent, its crest line running from east to west, at right angles to the general course of the shore line, crossing two conical summits respectively four hundred and three hundred and fifty feet high, descending the latter at a slope of about thirty degrees and terminating in a flat point eighty feet above mean sea level, on which the lighthouse stands. The neck where the promontory joins the continent is two thousand three hundred feet across below water lines and about two hundred feet above sea level at its highest point. The promontory is a mass of dense, hard, black basalt, which seems to have been forced like a wedge into a cleft in the sandstone. It rises vertically from the sea to a height of from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet, in many places overhanging the water ; its face hollowed out into caverns and seamed with fissures, with sharp projections of fantastic shape; the whole crumbling away slowly from the effects of the winter frosts and rains. The base of the cliff is honey-combed with caves, some of which might well be called tunnels, as they extend a long distance into the rock. One is said to penetrate eighty feet in a direct line from the face. It is not possible to verify this statement, as the surf was washing in and out of the cave with great force, but it is probably not far from the truth. The west end of the cape is surrounded by a number of pinnacles of rock rising vertically to a height of from forty to eighty feet out of the water. Seen from a boat at a short distance, this black, jagged mass towering into the air, with the surf lashing its base with a noise like thunder, the scene excels in grandeur the sight of the Devil's Canyon, and Cape Horn, on the Central Pacific Railroad ; but it must be a sight of terror to the unfortunate mariner who should see it as a lee coast during a southwest gale.

" From November to April the prevailing winds are southerly. Sometimes strong west winds occur, changing round to northwest, breaking into heavy squalls,accompanied by rain, hail, thunder and lightning. This is generally from February to April. The gales which are principally dreaded by mariners come from the southwest. These are sometimes so strong that a man cannot keep his feet, and pebbles as large ashazle-nuts are caught up from the beach and dashed against the light-tower, a height of more than one hundred feet. These gales reach a velocity of sixty miles per hour. Fogs so dense that the shore is not visible from a distance of five hundred feet out at sea, occur at all seasons, but principally during the month of July. Rain during the winter is not so frequent as in the Willamette valley, but heavier ; snow is of rare occurrence, always light and soon melts.

" The spring tides, with the ocean in its normal condition rise and fall nine feet. During strong west winds the high tides have reached a height of twelve feet above mean low water mark. The influence of ordinary high tides extends to Pioneer, thirty miles above the mouth of the Yaquina, the tide rising and falling from four to six feet.

" It has generally been believed by the residents of the country around Yaquina bay that a reef from three to five fathoms under water extends in a curved line from

Yaquina Head toward Cape Foulweather, terminating about one and one-half miles south of the cape, inclosing a basin having a smooth., sandy bottom, which covers an area of nearly a thousand acres, and that a breakwater built along the crest of the supposed reef would convert the basin into a harbor of shelter for vessels in distress as well as a port of entry.

"It was for the purpose of ascertaining the feasibility of this project that a survey was requested by those interested, among whom may be included all the people of that section of Oregon whose nearest outlet to the ocean lies through the valley of the Yaquina river. The chart of the United States Coast Survey in this locality and ray soundings over the same ground show that no such reef exists. There are four knobs of sandstone, harder than the rest of the bottom, from twelve to thirty feet under low water level, situated in a curved line in the direction above indicated, but distant from each other from one-fourth to one-half of a mile, and with from thirty-six to fifty feet of water between them. On these, during low tides and heavy swells, the sea breaks constantly, suggesting the presence of a continuous reef.

"The length of breakwater which this project contemplates would be nine thousand nine hundred feet, with an average depth of twenty-six feet below tide level.

" The estimate for rough rubble may appear excessive, but the stone would have to be brought from Cape Foulweather, the nearest point where hard rock is found, and where, owing to the prevalence of heavy seas, the loading of barges would be expensive and dangerous, often impossible, necessitating the suspension of the work until the recurrence of smoother water should allow the boats to approach the quarries with safety.

" There is no question that such a work, if carried out, would greatly benefit navigation by affording shelter from southwest gales. Some such protection is absolutely required. But a better harbor, at much less cost, would be secured by building a breakwater from the extreme point of Cape Foulweather, northward, inside of the reef above described, for a distance of six hundred feet. This would inclose an area of about one hundred acres, under the lee of the cape, with anchorage in from four to eight fathoms of water, having a free entrance from the west twelve hundred feet wide. Such a harbor would satisfy the present necessities, not only as a refuge but also as a port of entry, Yaquina bay being accessible only to light-draught coasting vessels ;

"The cost per linear foot of a breakwater here, on the plan recommended, would be as nearly as can be estimated from the data obtained, as follows, its dimensions being : Length, six hundred feet ; average depth below tide, thirty-one feet :

"Here the stone could be obtained from the shore end of the wall and hauled in cars along the top, extending the track as the work progressed, making the cost of transportation less than in the south bay. The above estimates are in gold coin.

" The hydrographic work of the Coast Survey in this vicinity terminates at the extremity of Cape Foulweather. No survey had ever been made of this bay and, so far as I could learn, my boat was the first that had ever entered it. It is a natural harbor of considerable extent, even without improvement. I am informed that during southwest gales the whole of the area inside of the reef is comparatively smooth, and the southeast portion quite so. Several of the seamen employed as boatmen on this survey, who had sailed for a number of years between San Francisco and Puget Sound, and claimed to be familiar with the coast and its climate, said that if two buoys were placed to mark the entrance, and the fact published for the information of mariners, vessels of any draught could enter here, not only for shelter, but for purposes of commerce. If this opinion be correct - and there seems to be no reason to the contrary - the circumstance is of interest in connection with the fact that a narrow-gauge railway is now under construction from Corvallis, on the Willamette to Yaquina bay.

" Last winter there were a number of vessels in distress off Cape Foulweather at different times, and one that I am aware of was lost, with all on board. In describing this bay I omitted to mention that there is a rock on which the swell breaks during westerly and northerly weather. It is small and lies about five hundred feet from the mainland, nearly opposite the entrance. It is not in the way of vessels anchoring.

" Learning that a cove with good anchorage existed about ten miles north of the cape, and wishing to get all information possible on the subject of a refuge, I went there by sea, two members of my party being familiar with the spot. I found it to be an indentation in the rocky coast, three-fourths of a mile long and about one thousand feet wide ; its longer diameter parallel to the general direction of the coast line with from six to ten fathoms depth, well sheltered from the north wind, but open to the west and southwest. This place is called Wreckers Cove, the name having been given by men who saved, or rather collected some fragments of the schooner Uncle Sam, lost a mile north of the cove, about two years since."

In order that the reader may have the opportunity of comparing the rival advantages of Cape Foul weather, in Benton county and Port Orford, in Curry county, as harbors of refuge, we now append the official report of the survey of the latter made by Colonel John M. Wilson, United States Army, and dated September 23, 1878 :

" Port Orford, the most westerly post of the United States south of Alaska, is situated on the western coast of North America in Lat. 42° 44\ Long. 124° 29', and according to the Coast Pilot of Oregon, published by the authority of the Coast Survey, is by far the best summer roadstead on the Pacific coast between Los Reyes and the Strait of Fuca.

"The harbor is deep and capacious and is formed by a headland jutting out into the sea, nearly vertical on its water face, the portion forming the shelter from westerly gales attaining an altitude of about three hundred and fifty feet; from the center point the ground slopes gradually down to an elevation of about sixty feet above low water, near the northern part of the bay, opposite which the town of Port Orford is situated.

"'From the extremity of the southwest point eastward to the main shore the distance is two miles, and from this line to the greatest bend of the shore northward the distance is one mile. The soundings within this space range from sixteen fathoms close to Tichenor's Rock, forming the southwest point of the bay, to three fathoms within one-fourth of a mile of the beach on the northeast side toward Tichenor's Rock ; one mile off the shores of the bay the average depth is about fourteen fathoms, regularly decreasing in shore.'

"From my own examination and all the information I could collect, I find the bottom of the harbor to be of sand and mud, presenting a good holding-ground, and that there are no sunken rocks or hidden reefs to endanger vessels after getting inside the head. It is said that northwest fogs seldom, if ever, enter the roadstead, which gives it, consequently, a great advantage over other harbors on the coast south of the Columbia river.

"From my own observation I am led to believe this is so. While off the coast, between Cape Arago and Port Orford, a dense fog enveloped the shore ; but when we reached Cape Blanco this seemed to veer off and follow the line of the reef north of Orford, and we entered the harbor where it was perfectly clear. On the following day, while examining the coast north of Orford, in shore, I found a dense fog enveloping Cape Blanco, seven miles north, while at Port Orford it was perfectly clear and pleasant.

" Between Port Orford and Cape Blanco, and about three miles off the coast, there is a group of rocky islets and sunken rocks called Orford Reef, which renders the approach to Port Orford from the north somewhat dangerous; there is, however, a good wide ship channel between this reef and the main shore.

"'In winter, anchor far enough out to put to sea when a southeaster comes up ; during a protracted gale in December, 1851, a terrible sea rolled in so that no vessel could have ridden it out. The old steamer Seagull was driven northward and lost two weeks in regaining her position, and the mail steamer Columbia hardly held her own for .many hours off Orford Reef/

"In the fall of 1872, Major H. M. Roberts, Corps of Engineers, made a careful examination of this harbor, and in January, 1873, presented an elaborate report, with plans and estimates for a breakwater. In the summer of 1876, the Board of Engineers for the Pacific Coast made a similar examination and in February, 1877, presented a report, with a plan and estimates; these very interesting reports were laid before Congress and to them I respectfully call attention for details.

"After careful examination of this subject I beg to report that, in my opinion, Port Orford is a very available point for a harbor of refuge. It is easily accessible, occupies a position nearly midway between San Francisco and the Strait of Fuca, presents a deep and capacious roadstead offering secure anchorage from gales from all points except south, southeast and southwest; is not subjected to northwest fogs, has no shifting sand bars or hidden reefs within its limits; the land around is high and prominent and presents all the necessary materials, easily accessible, for a stone breakwater. All that is now needed to make it a secure harbor of refuge at all seasons is a breakwater, behind which vessels can ride safely at anchor during gales coming from the southeast, south and southwest, from which it is not already protected by nature.

" A careful examination of the chart of the currents and the general direction of the gales leads me to the conclusion that a breakwater about five thousand feet long, running from the outer point of the Head toward Coal Point, would give ample protection to a large fleet during the heaviest gales ; for present purposes two thousand feet would be sufficient, and this could be extended whenever it became necessary.

" A breakwater five thousand feet long would secure a harbor of about three hundred acres, with a depth of from four to twelve fathoms outside the three-fathom curve, while one of two thousand feet would secure an available anchorage of about ninety acres with the same depth.

" The plan of breakwater recommended is that proposed by the Board of Engineers for the Pacific Coast, and described in their report of February 14, 1877, as follows :

" ' We propose to build the base of any breakwater up to the height of fifteen feet below the level of low water of small stone ; that is to say, of any stone as such quarry will furnish, and while quarrying out this great mass, to lay away all large stones of five, ten or twenty tons for the construction of that portion of the breakwater from fifteen feet up to low water. Upon this foundation we propose to build a masonry wall faced with granite, twenty-five feet wide and twenty feet high, including the foundation, protecting the seaward side by blocks of artificial stone (if natural stone cannot be obtained) of large size (twenty to thirty tons each) and thoroughly paving the harbor side with large blocks of granite to receive without displacement the water that will be thrown over the wall in great streams/

"I think this breakwater should be connected with the headland, and that the United States should purchase so much of the Head as will be necessary for the works of defense after the harbor is completed, and for the stone quarries, buildings, etc., for the construction of the breakwater.

"The prevailing winds on the coast from November until April are from the south and southwest; in May they veer around to the north and northwest, and continue from that direction until about October ; the gales mostly dreaded by mariners are from the southwest and are at times fearful in their severity; on the whole of the northwest coast between San Francisco and the Straight of Fuca, a distance of seven hundred and fifty miles, there is no harbor that a sailing vessel will attempt to enter during a southwest gale."

It will thus be seen that the official estimate of the cost of construction of a breakwater at Port Oxford to inclose ninety acres, is three millions four hundred and twentyseven thousand dollars ; to inclose one hundred acres at Cape Foulweather, six hundred and fifty-six thousand two hundred and fifty-one dollars and twenty cents, or two million seven hundred and seventy thousand seven hundred and forty-eight dollars and eighty cents less, while Mr. Habersham states in his report that the Foulweather harbor is so naturally well protected from southeast winds that the opinion was expressed by the seamen who assisted him in the survey, that if buoys were placed to define the entrance, vessels of any draught could run in and find safe anchorage ; and this opinion is substantiated by the fact that during severe storms, while the south side of the cape (exposed like Port Oxford) is lashed into fury, the north side presents an area of fifty acres, smooth as a mill pond and covered with innumerable wild fowl.