Benton County, Oregon - Chapter 52: Toledo, Elk City, and Tum Tum Precincts, 1885

Chapter 52: Toledo, Elk City, and Tum Tum Precincts

Yaquina trade will be obtained. Many have come to and gone away from the Yaquina country by the usually traveled routes, but have not had the faintest idea that so large and valuable a tract of green timber existed within easy access of the bay. A short distance above the mouth of the Yaquina Boone slough puts in from the north, tapping both this and Yaquina precinct, and along whose banks is a large amount of level country, chiefly utilized for grazing purposes. Here also, on an island of considerable size is the remains of a once splendid grove of trees. About two miles farther up, but on the same side of the river is Depot slough, and half a mile beyond we have Olalla slough. Along both of these, and on Beaver slough as well, which joins Depot slough from the west, are wide bottoms, all mostly taken up, however, and under cultivation. Opposite the mouth of the water-course last named are some gently rolling lands the property of William Mackay aud Mr. Butler, on which are valuable improvements, the whole being in a good state of cultivation. Mill creek comes in from the south, marking the eastern boundary of the precinct, where also are some fine lands. The whole of the land lying on the river is taken and a considerable portion has been brought into cultivation.

To the south of the Yaquina the country becomes rough and mountainous, the hills increasing in altitude until Table Mountain is reached, which marks the division between the water-shed of the Yaquina and that of the Alsea river, and forming a prominent landmark at sea as has been mentioned in the survey report of Mr. Chase.

The population of Toledo precinct is about four hundred, the available country being thickly settled. The people are industrious and enterprising, the farms being well improved and wearing an appearance of neatness and thrift, thanks to a good soil that well remunerates the farmer for his labor. Stock-raising receives considerable attention but like all other portions of the coast country, nothing like what its capabilities would warrant. A few hogs are raised almost everywhere, but not more than can be used for home consumption. As there are no flouring mills in the district there has been no attempt to cultivate wheat beyond as a simple experiment, but there is little doubt but that when the demand arises it will be profitably produced. Oats is grown and does well, as do all tubers and vegetables, while it is thought that were there a demand for sugar beets, they could be matured to an almost unlimited extent. The prosperity for almost all kinds of fruit, except peaches, are good, many of the orchards being full of promise. There are two saw-mills in the precinct that have been chiefly engaged in supplying the Oregon Pacific Railroad Company with lumber.

The first settlement within the present boundaries of Toledo precinct was made by George Megginson, who located on Depot (then Siletz Depot) Slough in January, 1866. About the same time came John Graham, Sr., who took up the claim on which the town of Toledo stands, while William Mackay located on the opposite side of the bay, at his present place. Then, William Dandon settled on Depot Slough, and that same year H. P. Butler, who still owns his original claim ; K. N. Baker, on the " Brigg's Place;" James Leabo on that adjoining the last named; and Robert Hill, on the place now the property owned by Charles Montgomery.

In 1868 a school was opened in the precinct in a building now vacant, while the first post-oflSce was in the premises of William Mackay, subsequently in that of H. P. Butler, and afterwards to its present locality - Toledo.

The town of Toledo is situated on the east bank of Depot slough, near its mouth, and is accessible to all vessels that can now cross the bar at the mouth of Yaquina bay. It was laid out by John Graham in the year that the post-office was there established. It is located on the line of the Willamette Valley and Coast Railroad, twelve miles east from Yaquina City, and comprises one hotel, two stores, one saloon, a feed stable, a blacksmith's shop and post-office.

Depot Slough

This stream empties into the Yaquina at Toledo and derived its name from . the fact of the depot for supplying the Siletz Reservation being located on its banks. About eighteen years ago a saw-mill was built here by George Megginson, and subsequently a like enterprise was started by the Railroad company.

Caledonia

This village, so called after the name given to Scotland by the Gauls, was first located January 1, 1885, and is situated at the junction of the Caledonia (formerly Olalla) river with the Yaquina. It was laid out by Mr. Vincent on the claim of William Stevens, while so favorable is the site considered that town lots have found a ready sale. During the spring a hotel and store was started as well as the Charles Logsden saw-mill. Caledonia is beautifully located and placed upon the county road.

Elk City Precinct extends from the northern boundary of the county, near the Siletz river, south to Tide Water precinct and east and west from a line north and south from the mouth of Mill creek to a line extending north and south from the point where Little Elk creek joins the Yaquina river, being bounded on the north by Tillamook couuty, east by Summit precinct, south by Tide Water precinct and west by Toledo precinct, its length from north to south being about fifteen miles and its breadth, eight miles from east to west.

A strip along the portion of the precinct to the north is within the confines of the Siletz Reservation. Not far from its northeastern corner Rock creek enters and after runuing for two miles in a westerly direction falls into the Siletz river, which continues the journey with a westerly course across the precinct, and soon bends northward and leaves the county. On the margins of these streams is some good bottom land, but which are not subject to homestead. About four miles farther south is the Yaquina river, whose general direction is west, for five miles in an air line, but by its meanderings, a very much greater distance. It now bears towards the south for four or five miles when it unites with Elk river, whence it is five or six miles to the northern boundary of the precinct. About three miles south from Yaquina river, at the mouth of Little Elk creek, and over a prominent dividing ridge, is Bear creek, and a mile and a half further Beaver creek, both tributaries of Elk river, which is reached half a mile beyond. Following down from this point the river makes a large bend to the south and afterwards to the north, so that after ten miles of circuition it is near its starting point. At the extreme northern point of this bend Bear creek enters, while half a mile further south the waters of Beaver creek mingle with it. From the mouth of Bear creek the river runs nearly west for five miles until its junction with the Yaquina

From Elk river south to the divide, towards what we may call the Alsea district, the country is rough and probably few places are worth attention. On Bear and Beaver creeks are good bottom lands suitable for cultivation, while the hills around are also capable of being cultivated and will afford excellent pasture for stock. On Elk river, in the vicinity at present under notice, there are large tracts of wild cherry; while, from Bear creek, to where it unites with the Yaquina river, the bottom lands are good and mostly under cultivation. In the country adjacent to these streams there are still opportunities for taking claims, while the locality is considered by those who ought to know among the very best for cattle and sheep ranching. Between the Elk and Yaquina rivers is a high dividing ridge, that gradually slopes off towards Yaquina, cut up into deep gulches, but below these are a succession of table-lands, much of which is tolerably level and could be cultivated without great difficulty, but is at present most suitable for pastoral purposes. Following the course of the Yaquina river we find narrow bottom lands that have been taken up and cultivated for years ; while, between the Yaquina and Siletz is a range of hills, not high, entirely open, and everywhere adapted to stock-raising. Besides, amid these hills are several riverlets that empty their waters into the Yaquina, on whose banks are stretches of land that promise a rare fertility.

In that portion of Elk City precinct that lies towards the west and northwest there are but few level spots, yet it could all be made to pasture sheep and other stock, while, although the amount of green timber is small, there is enough to satisfy the home demand of the precinct. Groves of fire may now be noticed springing up in different places chiefly composed of trees from fifty to seventy-five feet in height and which have grown within the last twenty years. Along the water courses the alder grows luxuriantly, but there is no oak timber, that being unknown in the coast country. Fir, cedar and alder are the kinds usually found until the coast is attained, and there the spruce and a few other varies are met. The devastating fire of several years ago, as we have elsewhere stated, destroyed many square miles of timber, leaving a forest of dead trees that add in lending a peculiarly mountanous appearance to the country. These defunct monarchs of the forest are now rapidly decaying and disappearing, and as they go, and as timber is destroyed in large tracts by conflagration so does the region become more open and conducive to settlement.

The population of the precinct is almost entirely confined to the banks of the Yaquina river and numbers but little over a hundred souls. The cultivation of oats, hay and the different kinds of vegetables has been universal and successful, while there are a number of young orchards that have every appearance of future perfectness. As the traveler finds his way through this country he will here and there observe a few sheep or beeves reveling in the most luscious herbage that grows up on every hand, even to decay, and yet it is a fact that butter is imported into the country. The country is interesting, not so much for what it is, but for what it is capable of being made. It should be the elysium of the cattle and sheep farmer. Owing to the heavy growth of vegetation, fire can be made to run through the country in the fall, when by sowing seeds of the tame grasses good pastures would be had in a very short space of time ; while, owing to the immense fires that have over-run the country vast quantities of ashes have been left on the ground, which, with the decay of the prodigious vegetable growth from year to year has produced a rich black friable soil extending to the summits of the highest hills.

Most travelers over the Yaquina road will not fail to remember Mr. M. L. Trapp's place. Here they have seen what enterprise and energy can effect towards making a farm among the mountains.

The earliest settlement of what is now Elk City precinct was made in the year 1866 when the country was thrown open. Among the first to locate were, K. L. Feagles, John Stewart, G. W. Johnson, T. J. Blair, C. B. Blair, Oliver Blair, Holmes Blair, M. W. Simpson, A. Card, - Hite, T. P. Fish, Henry Winchell, E. A. Abbey, James Glass, Samuel Logan, A. Cloak and father, James Leabo, Joseph Leabo, George Kistler, - Williams, Abiatha Newton (from whom the post-office takes its name), Michael Galloway, - Norwood, Hazard Smith, J. E. Dixon, W. F. Dixon, Cyrus Dixon, Joseph Curies, David Newsome, A. Mathena, W. W. Oglesby, John White, - Morrison, D. Carlisle, Doc. Stacy, - Stump, W. T. Bryon, J. T. Galloway, John J. Galloway, Dr. George Kellogg, Jason Kellogg, - Starr, Benjamin Boydson, Benjamin Schloup, M. L. Trapp, Charles McLane, Nelson Tharp, Benjamin Tharp, E. Brannan, William Rook, John Wis. Carson, John Shipley, - McBey, E. H. Baber, Levi Hunt, William Woods, Abraham Woods, C. B. Mays, F. H. Sawtell, E. N. Sawtell.

This town is located at the junction of Yaquina and Big Elk rivers and is a pleasant place to pass a few weeks in fishing, hunting, etc. The grass and vegetation is fresh and green the year round. The pure cold spring water rushing down the mountain sides enlivens and beautifies the valleys below and quench the thirst of those who partake of the pure and sparkling beverage. The climate is mild and the air fresh, balmy and invigorating. Being surrounded with grand and lofty mountains the scenery is diversified and picturesque and well protected from heavy winds ; while, the surroundings are the most pleasant for those seeking health and amusement, of any place on Yaquina bay.

The first settlement in Elk City was made by the Corvallis and Yaquina Wagon Road Company who erected a warehouse there in 1866, and laid out the town, while in this building was opened the first store, by Winant & Co. in that year. That same fall Joseph Leabo opened a mercantile establishment, which he conducted until he sold out to G. W. Johnson.

In the year 1867, T. J. Blair established the Blair House, while, about the same time the school- house of District No. 32 was built to serve the double purpose of a church and scholastic institution, taught by J. H. Canterbury. In the month of February of that year, a portion of the bridge was carried away by a large amount of driftwood, during a flood that submerged nearly all the bottom land along the Yaquina river.

Elk City is as high up as boats now ordinarily run, although it is possible for them to ascend for two miles beyond. Here is the terminus for the present of the mail

From Elk City there is a road leading over Elk Hill four miles, where it joins the road that follows the course of the river, past Pioneer, giving a choice of highways.

Pioneer City

At the head of tide water, two miles from Elk City, on the Yaquina river, is this old town, which in 1866 had its season of prosperity, but since then it has lost much of its pristine glory. The town was laid out in 1866 by Dr. George Kellogg, who also built the first house on the site, a warehouse for the accommodation of trade on the river, constructed it is believed in the latter part of the previous year. In the year 1873, E. S. Altree erected a grist mill in the vicinity of Pioneer, which not long after was carried away by a freshet in the river. The town at present consists of but a few houses.

Tum Tum Precinct begins at the divide between Little Elk creek and the Yaquiua river on the north and extends to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Big Elk creek and Alsea river on the south, and from the mouth of the Little Elk to a point a little west of Blodget's valley, being in the vicinity of twelve miles from east to west and ten from north to south. It is actually bounded on the north by Summit precinct, on the south by Alsea precinct, on the west by Elk City precinct and on the east by King's Valley and Philomath precincts.

Little Elk creek near the central portion of the precinct, passing out at its northeast corner ; while the Big Elk has its source in the southeast corner of the west and southwest slopes of Mary's Peak, and flowing westerly enters Elk City precinct. Rising on the northwest gradient of Mary's Peak is that fork of Mary's river called Shot Pouch which, after flowing in a northerly direction for some distance, turns abruptly to the southeast ; while, at the most northerly point of the precinct the Tum Tum comes in from the westward.

Bordering the stream last named is a beautiful mountain glen, lying at a high altitude and extending as far as the Summit towards Little Elk creek, whose valley is much lower and comprises wide lands long ago brought into cultivation. Big Elk river has larger bottom lands on its banks than any other stream in the region ; while on such of the smaller water-courses, such as Deer and Wolf creeks, and the several brooks on the north and south, considerable fertile lands are seen, clothed with the richest pasture for stock of all kinds. Many excellent farms have been made along the courses of the Big Elk and its tributaries, yet there is room for more; but this valley is, so far, isolated, there being only a single thoroughfare that connects it with the upper end; still there is no reason why one should not be constructed to Elk City. The Shot Pouch, which is afterwards known as one of the forks of Mary's river, rejoices in much valuable land along its route, now for the most part covered with a growth of the wild cherry. Still there are portions of it in cultivation, but owing to its high position it is subject to keen frosts. Mary's Peak, which marks the northeastern corner of Alsea precinct, is situated in the southeast angle of Tum Tum. It attains an altitude of four thousand feet and is often snow-capped until the month of August. Its summit is bald, devoid of timber but covered with a growth of indiginous grass better than which for pasturage is not to be found anywhere. In form the apex is crescent-shaped, comprises between three and four hundred acres, owned by the veteran pioneer, William Wyatt, who uses it during the summer months as a range for horses.

Like in other portions of the district the timber has succumbed to the devouring element, but there are sufficient remains to show that there once existed a magnificent cedar forest.

The early settlers in this precinct first supplied their household wants from what the country then afforded. Until their lands could be brought into subjection they usually depended upon shingle making as a source of revenue, or barter for groceries, while their tables were laden with venison, then more plentiful amid the hills than now.

Little grain is produced in Turn Turn precinct, the chief industry being stockraising, which is year by year growing into greater importance, their ranches being extended as their flocks and herds increase. Pasturage is extended by the sowing of tame grasses, the seed for which is the product of their own labor, while the farmers here have for some time past supplied the Corvallis market with beef and mutton bred upon their lands. The capabilities of this precinct are second to none in the county, while the opportunities for taking up farms is as good as in any other portion of the State.

The population is about two hundred and fifty, chiefly composed of agriculturists, who are greatly in want of postal facilities, their nearest distributing point being at Philomath, some twenty to thirty miles away. The precinct includes three school houses in Big Elk, Shot Pouch, and the vicinity of Little Elk valleys, while religious services are irregularly held in these buildings or in the private residences of settlers. There is no store within the precinct, supplies being drawn from either Corvallis or Philomath. Among the first settlers in this precinct were Alfred Flickinger, James C. and J. H. Yantis and Sol Mulkey.