Umatilla, Oregon - Historic Sketches of Walla Walla, Whitman, Columbia and Garfield Count

Historic Sketches of Walla Walla, Whitman, Columbia and Garfield Count

The glory of Umatilla has long since departed. At one time it had not its counterpart in the whole state of Oregon. It teemed with life, throbbed with excitement and bustled with business activity. Now its eager throng has gone, and its stores and dwellings are no more, save a few that still remain to testify to the grandeur of the past. It was built upon the sand, and fell before the storm of adversity that beat upon it, and the sand that was once the foundation of its buildings, now flies about the empty streets, a plaything of the winds. The desolation is more apparent than real, however, for two large mercantile houses still remain and do an extensive merchandising and forwarding business, such as, were it a new town like many in the county, would be considered enormous, but in comparison to the business of the past is as the few grains of wheat gleaned from the field when the reapers have passed.

In the fall of 1861, before the county had been created, and when a few ranchers and stock men along the streams were its total population, Umatilla City was conceived in the mind of A. J. Kane, now a citizen of Portland. He was then working for a forwarding firm at Wallula', and became impressed with the conviction that a great trade would soon spring up with Grand Ronde valley, which could be supplied from some point further down the river. In low water boats could not ascend to Wallula with full cargoes because of Umatilla rapids, and Mr. Kane's idea was to start a landing place at some point below that obstruction. At the close of navigation in 1861, he made an examination and selected a point about eight miles below the mouth of Umatilla river. He then went to Portland and formed a partnership with H. H. Hill. At the opening of navigation, in March, 1862, they came up the river with a stock of goods

Quite a trade at once sprang up with the new settlers in Grand Ronde valley and people along the Umatilla, as well as a large retail trade with emigrants and travelers following the river road from Dalles to Walla Walla. It was made a regular landing place for the boats plying on the river. They lived and did business at first in tents, but log houses were soon brought down from Umatilla river, which gave the town a more stable appearance. A hotel business was among the pioneer industries of the place, a canvass spread on the ground serving the purpose of a table, and one dollar being charged for meals cooked near by at a log fire. Discovery of the Granite creek mines that summer added a new source of trade, and by fall they had a paying and firmly established business. The Powder river and Boise mines opened that year, reresulted in quite a number of people deciding to follow Mr. Kane's example and start in business at some convenient point on the Columbia for supplying that trade. They made preparations to begin as soon as goods could come up the river in the spring.

On the eight of August, 1862, Jesse S. Lurchin made application to the governor, to pre-empt about 120 acres of land just above the mouth of Umatilla river, being the town site of Umatilla City. He offered to sell this to Mr. Kane for $600. Being at the mouth of the river, it looked like a more favorable location for a town than Grand Ronde Landing, and would have been so were it not that the rapids interfered with navigation between the two points. A steamer could take a full cargo to Grand Ronde Landing in low water, but could only take half a load over the rapids. Mr. Kane appreciated this objection and declined the offer. The channel has since been cleared by the government. Navigation opened early in the spring of 1863, and with it came a man named Spencer, with a stock of goods, who wanted to have Mr. Kane's store house at once and go into business there. This he could not obtain, and he decided to start an opposition town at Lurchin's place. He found there an empty log cabin, one that had been built by men catching drift wood. This he occupied for a store, and laid out a town, which he named Columbia,, but which was soon known and called UmatiJ la Landing. It was the season of high water then, and people not as familiar with steamboating as was Mr. Kane thought nothing of the rapids below the town. Deceived by the high water, other parties looking for a good location passed Grand Ronde Landing and selected the new place. The people were like sheep; the tide having set in, all followed with a rush, and in a week a town sprang up at Umatilla Landing such as even it founders had not dreamed of. Mr. Kane cared more for his business than he did for a town site, and reading quickly the hand writing on the wall, abandoned the old location and moved to the new, where he opened and conducted for several years the largest business house at that place.

Umatilla Landing became in one year a worthy rival to Walla Walla. A line of stages was established between this point and Powder river and Boise, and teams and pack animals lined the road to these places. A perfect stream of travelers going and coming passed between Umatilla and the mines. Thousands of people and millions of pounds of freight paid tribute to this new city on the sands. The raw winds of the Columbia whistled around rude frame and canvas structures that formed the city, but within those walls were stored goods of enormous value, while freight in great quanti- ties was piled up on the river bank. Saloons and gambling houses with the throngs that frequented them, formed a large portion of the bulk and population, but not of the business. They were an adjunct, in those days considered a necessary one, and only flourished because of the prosperity of the city in its more substantial lines of trade. The roughest and most desperate characters in the mines made this their temporary home at times, and quarrels, with the consequent "man for breakfast" were frequent. It was a repetition of the scenes of every "live camp" since the days of '49 in California. No one expected anything else, and, in fact, the saloons were generally considered as a standard by which to judge of the prosperity of a town. It is almost impossible to realize the amount of business transacted in that city built on the drifting sands of the Columbia. There were six stores that sold an average of $200,000 of goods each per annum. In 1866, the firm of French & Gilman alone sold $500,000 of merchandise, chiefly groceries, both wet and dry. Besides these there were three or four smaller trading stands, a drug store, three hotels, twenty-two saloons, two dance houses, two feed stables, two barber shops, two blacksmith shops, and a number of other establishments. The rough element became so bad at one time that it became necessary for the citizens to caution them. In view of the work being done at that time by the vigilance committee in Walla Walla, more than this was unnecessary. A vigilance committee at the Meadows, twelve miles up the river, hanged a man in 1864, for horse stealing, a crime that was prevalent at that time. A tripod was made of three rails to serve as a scaffold. This was the only case of lynch law in the county. During the years 1864-5-6 the regular population was about 1,500, while the floating and transient element numbered nearly as many more. The county was organized before the town sprang up, and it therefore was not until March, 1865, that Umatilla secured the county seat. It was then the only regular town within its limits. By Act of October 24, 1864, Umatilla City was incorporated, with a mayor, five aldermen, recorder, marshal and treasurer. A year later the people decided that the burden of supporting a municipal government was unnecessory, and the charter was repealed by Act of December 18, 1865, to take effect June 5, 1866. George Coe was the first mayor, and Daniel French second. Judge L. L. McArthur served as recorder both years. In 1865 and 1866 Idaho mines began to be supplied from San Francisco by way of Chico and Honey Lake valley, drawing largely from the trade of Umatilla. From that time the town entered on the down grade. In 1868 the Central Pacific railroad was' completed into Nevada, and the bulk of Idaho trade followed it. This was a Waterloo to Umatilla, and her business men began to leave, but none without taking a well filled purse as a result of their few years' residence here. It was now time to commence kicking the dead lion. This was done by taking away the county seat in the spring of 1869, as has been related elsewhere. Gradually the town dwindled in trade and population until the building of the railroad to Pendleton in 1882 took the last forwarding business away. There are now two large stores, J. E,. Foster & Co. and J. H. Koontz, that have for years done an immense forwarding and commission business as well as trade in goods. Until the O. R, & N. Co.'s road was completed in 1882, the produce of Umatilla county sought the river at this point for shipment. Over 2,000,000 pounds of wool have been shipped annually by these firms for a number of years, and now wheat has begun to go out in large quantities. The building of the railroad, with its numerous stations, has taken away the bulk of shipping, and left little but a retail trade to sustain it. This, however, is quite large and will undoubtedly increase in the future, especially in view of the settlements now being made on the opposite side of the Columbia. The buildings that once composed this bustling city have been torn down to reduce the danger of fire, or removed to other points. The town now contains two large stores with stone warehouses, two hotels, two saloons, a blacksmith shop, livery stable, shoe shop, express office, post office, telephone office, U. S. Signal Service Station, steam ferry boat, school house and church, railroad depot, warehouse and cattle yards, a number of residences and a population of about 200.

The Umatilla and Pendleton Telephone Co. was organized in 1880 with a capital of $2,500, and a wire was put up to Pendleton the same year, a distance of thirty-nine miles, at a cost of $2,856. A donation of $300 was made by people interested. This was the first communication by wire with the interior of the county. The building used for a school house and church was erected in 1866 at a cost of $1,800. A six months' school with an attendance of about twenty-five scholars is now maintained.

Umatilla Mills were built in 1874-5 by J. R. Foster & Co. and H. U. Myers, who operated them until the summer of 1882, when they were sold to Mr. Hoffman, of Portland. They have two run of burrs.

War With The Snakes, Bannocks And Pah Utes

In the month of June, 1878, a large band of Bannock Indians, under the leadership of Buffalo Horn, began murdering settlers and destroying their property in the southern portion of Idaho and Oregon in the vicinity of Snake river. Buffalo Horn was a celebrated warrior, who had the year before aided the government against Chief Joseph and his band of hostile Nez Perces. His reward for such services was not in keeping with his estimate of their value and importance. He saw Chief Joseph honored and made the recipient of presents and flattering attention, while the great Buffalo Horn was practically ignored. His philosophical mind at once led him to the conclusion that more favors could be wrung from the government by hostility than in fighting its battles.

Some well-informed gentlemen believe there was a grand combination of tribes in Oregon and Washington, which was defeated and prevented from fully developing by the enegy of soldiers and volunteers. Smohalla, the Dreamer, had been prophesying that thousands of dead warriors were going to rise from their graves and aid in driving the whites out of the country. This idea was not original with him. It had been frequently used in former years by the Medicine Men of various tribes, to incite them to hostilities. The times appointed for the great uprising of defunct braves had come and gone and not a grave had opened. Like the Millerites in their days set for an end of the world, the Medicine Men ascribed the failures to a mistake in calculation and not in theory. Smohalla, during the winter previous, held many "seances," became entranced, saw visions, conversed with the dead, and reported results to the living as do white spiritualists, each time proclaiming the great and near resurrection of ghostly warriors to fight in the ranks of the Indian army. Runners were sent throughout Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Nevada by this wily Dreamer, to warn tribes to prepare for the great Indian millennium. These tribes were the Pah Utes, Bannocks, Snakes, Umatillas, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Warm Springs, Yakimas, and Chief Moses' large band of Colvilles, Columbias, Spokanes and Pend d'Oreilles. How much faith was placed in Smohalla and his dreams no one could discover, but an outbreak was looked for by those who had taken note of the passage from place to place of Indian messengers. They looked to Chief Moses, who was known to cherish hostile feelings, and whose followers were under direct influence of the scheming Smohalla, to begin the war ; and the outbreak by Bannocks was a surprise to them. They then conceived what they still believe, that it was planned to begin hostilities there, sweep north to Umatilla Reservation, cross the Columbia to Yakima, and thence, having been joined by confederate bands as they passed along, to unite with Chief Moses and carry on a protracted war, with his country as a base of operations and British Columbia as a final harbor of refuge.

Intelligence of the outbreak rapidly spread. Troops were forwarded from Vancouver, Walla Walla, Lapwai and other points, General O. O. Howard directing the operations in person. Several battles were fought, in one of which Buffalo Horn was killed. The hostiles were jcined by a large band of Pah Utes, led by Egan, their great war chief, who took command upon the death of Buffalo Horn, and by a large number of Snakes. They then numbered about 500 warriors, women and children swelling the number to 2,000. This narrative deals only with events within the limits of Umatilla county. Having been driven into the Blue mountains, the hostiles moved north towards the Umatilla Reservation. On the north fork of John Day river were many Indians from the reservation, as well as Columbia River and Warm Spring Indians. They were there ostensibly to fish and hunt and had their families with them, though many believe their object was to hold a conference with the hostiles. As soon as the agent, Maj. N. A. Cornoyer, learned that the Bannocks were coming in this direction, he mounted his horse and hastened to John Day river, to collect the scattered Indians and bring them upon the reservation. When he reached Camas Prairie he met crowds of Indian women hastening home, who told him the men were fighting on John Day river. He sent a courier to Pendleton with that information, and pushed on. Soon Indians were met, hastening home, who said that Umapine and a few others were holding the intruders in check. A little further on, Umapine himself was encountered with his little band of followers. No fighting had been done, but Indians had been in plain view on the opposite side of the river. These men were remaining in the rear to guard the retreat of women and children. Instructing them to return home as soon as possible, Major Cornoyer hastened back to Pendleton. All was commotion there. The false report that reservation Indians were fighting the enemy on John Day river had been spread in all directions, and telegraphed abroad.

Consternation and panic afflicted the people. On horseback, in wagons, and on foot the settlers hastened to the nearest town for protection. Pendleton, Heppner, Umatilla, Wallula, Weston, Milton and Walla Walla were crowded with refugees. Homes were abandoned so hastily that neither provisions nor extra clothing were provided. All settlements within reach of a warning voice were deserted in a day. Cattle and sheep men in the mountains were in a precarious situation, and many of them were killed before they could reach places of safety. Major Cornoyer gathered in all the Indians possible, including Columbia Rivers and Warm Springs, which gave him some 2,000 to take care of, the loyalty of many of whom was seriously doubted. The citizens and refugees in Pendleton made extensive preparations for defense. They dug a trench inside the court house fence, and banked dirt up against the boards, making a good fortification in the center of town. The mill was reserved as a harbor of refuge for women and children. A line of pickets was posted to guard all approaches, and full preparations were made to defend the place in event of an attack. At Umatilla similar precautions were taken. J. H. Kunzie was appointed Assistant Adjutant General by Gov. S. F. Chadwick, who had made it his headquarters. That point was selected because it had the nearest telegraph office, and because supplies for troops and volunteers were landed there. Volunteers were organized and armed by Mr. Kunzie, and the town was closely guarded. The stone warehouse of J. P. Foster & Co. was fitted up for a fort in which a final stand could be made in case of an attack. Umatilla was considered as especially exposed, as it was near this place the Indians were expected to make an attempt to cross the river. By careless handling of a needle gun in warehouse, which was crowded with women and children, it was discharged, the ball lodging in the left leg of a girl but fourteen years of age, a daughter of Capt. Cyrus Smith. She was at once taken to Walla Walla, where the limb was amputated below the knee. Similar preparations for defense were made at Heppner, Weston, Milton and other places where refugees had collected.

Upon return of Major Cornoyer to Pendleton on the second of July, confirming the news that hostiles were on John Day river, a volunteer company was organized, and the next morning started for the scene of action. At Pilot Pock they received recruit*, the company then numbering about thirty men, under the command of Captain Wilson. They camped that night in Camas Prairie, and on the morning of the fourth had proceeded but a short distance, when an Indian scout was discovered. After a long chase he was overtaken and killed. They soon after encountered a large body of Indians and were compelled to retreat with one man wounded. They were pursued ten miles, several of them losing their horses and making thei» escape on foot, being reported killed by those who reached Pendleton first. As soon as this company returned with intelligence that Indians were in Camas Prairie, and that some of their number as well as some sheep herders had been killed, another was organized by Sheriff J. L. Sperry, and started on the fifth for the front, with a company from Weston under Dr. W. W. Oglesby and another under M. Kirk. At Pilot Rock they received recruits, and were then consolidated into one command. The company was organized as follows: Captain, J. L. Sperry; Lieutenants, M. Kirk, William M. Blakely ; Sergeants, William Lamar, T. S. Furgerson, J. C. Coleman, William Ellis, R. Eastland ; Privates, W. W. Oglesby, T. C. McKay, George Bishop, S. L. Lansdon, Andrew Sullivan, A. Scott, A. A^cton, C. R. Henderson, B. E. Daugherty, J. H. Wilson, H. Rockfellow, B. L. Manning, F. D. Furgerson, M. P. Gerking, C. P. Woodward, F. Hannah, S. I. Gerking, G. W. Titsworth, S. W. Smith, J. M. Stone, H. H. Howell, W. M. Metzger, W. P. Grubb, W. L. Donalson, J. L. Smith, S. Rothchild, R. F. Warren, J. W. Saulsbury, H. A. Saulsbury, Harrison Hale, L. Blanchard, J. B. Perkins, A. Crisfield, B. F. Ogle, C. C. Townsend, J. Frazier, W. R. Reed, Thomas Ogle, Joseph Ogle, Doc. Odeer, Waller Harrison, George Graves, P. J. Ryan, A. R. Kellogg.

On the morning of the sixth they left Pilot Rock for Camas Prairie. General Howard had followed so closely upon the trail of the retreating savages that he had forced them out of Camas Prairie, and when the volunteers were taking their dinner at Willow Springs, firing and yelling announced the presence of the enemy, who were driving in the pickets and making a close race with them for camp. At the first alarm, thirteen men mounted their horses and departed in haste. The others tied their animals in a sheep corral and took shelter in a small shed. A sharp fight was maintained all the afternoon, William Lamar being killed, and S. L. Lansdon, A. Crisfield, S. Rothchild, G. W. Titsworth, C. R. Henderson, Frank Hannah, Jacob Frazier, J. W. Saulsbury, and H. H. Howell, wounded, Saulsbury twice and Hannah seven times. The Indians kept well under cover, fired from long range, and what loss they sustained could not be seen. Towards night they turned their attention to shooting the horses, but at dark ceased firing and apparently withdrew. A consultation was held, and it was decided to retreat on foot, such of the wounded as could ride were placed on the few surviving horses, and the others were put in a light spring wagon that had been brought along to carry provisions. The men were instructed to fall prostrate the instant a gun was fired, a precaution that saved them from annihilation. They had gone but a few hundred yards when the flash of a gun caused them to throw themselves upon the ground, just in time to escape a volley of bullets that went whizzing over them. Harrison Hall was too slow, and was shot dead. The volley was returned, and the Indians retreated after firing a few scattering shots. The retreat began at midnight, and before daylight they were attacked four times, having made but six miles, and lost but one man.

When Sperry's company left Pendleton, Major Throckmorton had arrived from Walla Walla, and was joined next day by troops from Lapwia, amounting in all to 150 men. The men who had fled from Willow Springs brought news of th£ precarious condition of their comrades, and Major Throckmorton instantly started to their relief. The retreating band of volunteers met the troops soon after day break about four miles from Pilot Rock, and their blue coats were a welcome sight to those weary men, who had fought so gallantly and made such a masterly retreat with their wounded comrades.

That day, Sunday, the seventh of July, the commands of General Howard and Major Throckmorton were united at Pilot Rock. Scouts reported the Indian camp to be at the head of Butter and Birch creeks, and early Monday morning Howard started to make an attack upon it. The command moved in two columns, two companies of artillery, one of infantry and a few volunteers under Throckmorton; seven companies of calvary and twenty of Bobbins' scouts under Captain Bernard, accompanied by -Howard in person. The Indians were encountered and driven with considerable loss from three strong positions, and finally fled in the direction of Grand Ronde valley. Five men were wounded and twenty horses killed. The men and animals were so exhausted by their exertions in climbing rocky ridges, that pursuit was discontinued after the hostiles had been driven five miles into the mountains. They fled before the troops with such haste as to abandon much amunition, camp material, stock, and 300 horses that were captured.

Meanwhile, events were happening along the Columbia. Mr. Kunzie had advised Governors Chad wick and Ferry and military authorities to guard the Columbia, as he was of opinion that the hostiles designed crossing to the Yakima country. Governor Ferry hastened to Walla Walla on the seventh and raised a company of forty volunteers under Capt. W. C. Painter, who proceeded to Wallula and embarked the next morning on the steamer Spokane, under command of Major Kress. Captain Wilkinson had the Northwest, with twelve soldiers and and twenty volunteers. These boats, armed with howitzers and Gatling guns, patroled the river. This was the day that Howard drove them back into the mountains, thus heading them off if they had any designs of crossing the river. There were several hundred Indians who had never lived on the reservation, and were considered non-treaty Indians. They belonged chiefly to the Umatilla and Walla Walla tribes lived in the vicinity of Wallula and Umatilla, and were known as Columbia river Indians. When Major Cornoyer gathered in the scattered bands many of these refused to go, and were looked upon as sympathizing with the hostiles and were supposed to have joined them. On the morning of the day Howard had his fight on Butter and Birch creeks, a number of these attempted to cross the river with a quantity of stock. They were intercepted at three points by the Spokane, and being fired into several Indians and a few horses were wounded or killed. All canoes from Celilo to Wallula were destroyed. Captain Wilkinson, on the Northwest, fired into a small party in the act of crossing a few miles above Umatilla. Two braves and a squaw were killed, and the others upset their canoes and got under them for j>rotection, they swam ashore and escaped. A squaw with two babies was compelled to leave one of them on the bank. When intelligence of these acts reached the reservation, those Columbias who had gone there with the agent became very restless and wanted to leave. The Cayuse chiefs told them they should not go, and a fight was barely avoided in consequence, but it resulted in their remain -

Up to this time fears had been entertained that the Umatillas, and possibly Cay uses, would join the outbreak and it was supposed that a few of the former had already done so. There is considerable doubt whether the Cayuses and Walla Wallas entertained such an idea, but as to the Umatillas and Columbias the doubt is not so strong. Had circumstances been more favorable, many would probably have linked their fortunes with the war movement. The death of Hon. C. L. Jewell was ascribed to Colu inbias by many. He had a large band of sheep in Camas Prairie, and went there with Mr. Morrisey to look after them. They encountered a number of Indians but succeeded in eluding them and reaching the herders' cabin in safety. Leaving Mr. Morrisey there, he returned to Pendleton to secure arms for his men who had decided to remain and defend themselves. On the morning of the fifth he left Pendleton with several needle guns, contrary to the advice of many friends. He was1 expected at the hut that night, but did not come. On the eighth Mr. Morrisey started out to see if he could be found. Near Nelson's he met Captain Frank Maddock with a company of volunteers from Heppner, who informed him that two men had been killed there. A search revealed the bodies of Mr. Nelson and N. Scully. Mr. Morrisey then went around Nelson's house, when he saw a piece of shake sticking up in the road, upon which was written the information that Jewell was lying wounded in the brush. Morrisey called out " Charley," when he received a faint response, and the injured man was found with a severe wound in the left side and his left arm broken. When Mr. Jewell had approached Nelson's place on the night of the fifth, he had been fired upon and fell from his horse, but while the Indians were killing those at the house he had crawled into the bushes. In the morning he worked his way out to the road, wrote his notice on the shake, and crawled back again. For three days he lay there without food and unable to help himself, when he was found by Mr. Morrisey. He was conveyed to Pendleton and carefully nursed, but died the next Friday.

After the battle of the eighth General Howard kept his scouts busy watching movements of the defeated Indians. He became satisfied they were working towards the mouth of Grand Ronde, with the intention of crossing Snake river near that point, and decided to pass around the mountains and head them off. He dispatched the cavalry under Bernard by way of Walla Walla and Lewiston, while he and his staff with 125 men took steamer at Wallula, as the speediest means of reaching the mouth of Grand Ronde. Colonel Miles was left in the mountains with 150 infantry and one company of cavalry, to follow the trail of the hostiles as rapidly as possible. This left Umatilla county and the reservation comparatively defenseless. He was remonstrated with in vain by Major Cornoyer, Governor Chadwick and others, who felt convinced that it was not yet the intention of the enemy to leave the vicinity of the reservation. They were satisfied that Eg an still hoj^ed to induce Cayuses to join him, and the departure of troops would be equivalent to an invitation to him to come down and occupy the reservation. The infantry in the mountains, with their instructions to follow the trail, would be no protection whatever. Hostiles were known to be in the mountains near by, for Major Cornoyer kept Cay use scouts constantly watching their movements, who reported them near at hand. Their scouts could be seen on the mountains back of the agency when the troops left; but Howard was convinced of the correctness of his judgement and refused to change his plans. If he had left a sufficient force of cavalry on this side to guard the reservation and drive the Indians back, then his plan of heading them off on the other side would have' been a good one. On the afternoon of the twelfth, the day Howard and the cavalry left, hostiles came out of the mountains in force and camped on Cottonwood creek, eight miles above the agency. A messenger was dispatched to intercept the Northwest and inform Howard of the situation. Just below the mouth of Snake river he overtook the boat and delivered his letter from Governor Chadwick. Howard said that in his opinion the action of the hostiles was only a ruse to draw him back, and continued up the river. Another courier to General Frank Wheaton at Walla Walla, produced a better result. That officer took upon himself the responsibility of sending a messenger after Bernard's cavalry, then some miles beyond that place, with orders to return immediately to Walla Walla, where Colonel Forsythe assumed command.

Meanwhile all was confusion at Pendleton and the agency. The Citizens were suspicious of the reservation Indians, fearing they intended to unite with the hostiles ; consequently volunteers would not go to the agency to defend it. Forty families of Columbias slipped out and went to the enemy's camp, and a few young Umatillas started off without permission, probably with a similar intention. Two of these saw George Coggan, Fred Foster and Al. Bunker coming down from Cayuse station on a course that took them in dangerous proximity to the hostiles. They rode towards the men with intention of warning them [so they said afterwards,] and the same time a third Indian rode up from another direction. The men had seen some deserted wagons a few miles back, where Olney J. P. McCoy, Charles McLaughlin, Thomas Smith and James Myers had been killed. They had also passed the band of Columbias on their way to the hostile camp. When they saw Indians dashing towards them from different directions they supposed them to be the ones they had passed, and concluding that their time had come, began firing at them. The Umatillas suddenly changed their pacific intentions, and commenced shooting. Coggan was killed and Bunker wounded. Foster, who had every reason to suppose that he was assailed by at least a score of savages, took the wounded man upon his horse and carried him two miles, when Bunker could go no further. Foster was then compelled to leave him and hasten to Pendleton, where his arrival created a panic. Besides killing the teamsters, the Indians burned Cayuse Station that day.

Through all the danger and trouble Major Corn oyer had stayed on the reservation ; the only employe remaining with him was John McBean, the interpreter. To have deserted the Indians then would have been to invite them to join the war party. When Egan pitched his camp on Cottonwood, Cayuse chiefs told Cornoyer that they knew the agency would be attacked at daylight the next morning, and those who did not join the assailants would be killed. They said if he would stay with them they would fight until they were all dead. They wanted him to go to Pendleton and get a few volunteers, as their young braves would fight better if they had white men with them. After picking out a place to make a stand in, near the agency, and building breastworks of logs and rails, Cornoyer mounted his horse and started for Pendleton. Near the town he encountered a j)arty of thirteen on their way to rescue Bunker. He remonstrated with them, but they refused to turn back. He then agreed to go also, assuring them there would be a fight in a few minutes. Near Winapsnoot's house they were attacked by hostiles, and the engagement lasted for two hours as they slowly retreated to Pendleton. No one was injured on either side so far as is known. Bunker was rescued the next day while Miles was fighting near the agency.

movements and had determined to take the responsibility of marching to the agency for its protection. Major Cornoyer well knew that if left to themselves the infantry would not arrive that night. He immediately started to meet them accompanied by Harry Peters and John Bradburn. It was then ten o'clock. At midnight they met Miles and the infantry, but the company of cavalry had been separated in the darkness and lost. Miles refused to move until the cavalry was found, two hours more were consumed in hunting up the missing troopers, who were found encamped and completely bewildered. When the commands were united, Cornoyer led them over the hills arriving just at daybreak, to the great delight of the friendly Indians, who thought the agent had either deserted them or been killed. To the exertions of Major Cornoyer and those accompanying him that night is due the fact that Colonel Miles arrived in time to defend the agency, and avert the evils that would have followed its capture, including the murder of many people and a possible union of reservation Indians with the hostiles.

The trooj)s upon reaching their destination proceeded at once to eat breakfast, but before they were through the Snakes, Bannocks and Pah Utes, some 400 strong, were seen riding down from their camp. A line was quickly formed across the flat and up the hill on the right, and before the soldiers were all in position the advancing Indians began to fire upon them. The reservation Indians were kept in the rear behind their fortifications. The troops hastily scooped holes in the ground, piling up dirt in front for protection. Lying behind these they returned the hostile fire so warmly as to keep them at a respectful distance. Nearly all day a battle was maintained in this manner. The reservation Indians have been severely blamed for not aiding Miles in this fight, and it has been used as an argument to prove that they were in sympathy with the enemy. The facts are that the Cayuses desired to take part, but were not permitted to do so by Colonel Miles, who said that he had men enough to defend the agency and the Indians, and did not want them to do any fighting, for fear they would become confused with the hostiles and cause trouble. Finally Miles decided to charge, his assailants, although he had but one company of cavalry and would not be enabled to pursue them. Again the Cayuses requested permission to join in the fight, and were allowed to do so on condition that they would keep with the soldiers and not get in advance of them. The command to charge was given, and the soldiers sprang from their rifle-pits, rushed upon the enemy vying with their Cayuse allies in the onslaught. The hostiles fleeing to the mountains returned no more, and that night found them eighteen miles from the agency, after having finished the destruction of Cayuse station by burning the barn, and the soldiers returned and went into camp. There were no casualties on the side of the troops and volunteers. The cavalry under Colonel Forsythe arriving the next day were not in time to participate in the fight. They had been sent off on a wild goose chase towards Wallula, because a frightened man had gone to Walla Walla and reported the hostiles in Van Syckle canon.

word to Major Cornoyer to have forty soldiers stationed at the appointed place, to capture or kill Egan when he appeared. Colonel Miles held the same opinion of Umapine1 s loyalty that the citizens did, and refused to send soldiers on such an errand ? The Cayuses expressed their disappointment to the agent, and complained of these suspicions. He told them that the best way to convince the whites of their loyalty was to go out themselves and capture Egan. Chief Homely acted on this advice, and quietly selecting forty young men, repaired to the rendezvous. Egan and Umapine appeared at the apj)ointed time, followed by a number of warriors. The great Pah Ute chief was seized and bound and placed in charge of Ya-tin-ya-wit, son-in-law of Howlish Wampoo, head chief of the Cayuses. A fight ensued with the hostiles who had followed their leader who were reniforced from the camp as soon as sounds of battle reached it. Egan was a very troublesome prisoner, and in a struggle to escape was shot by his guard and killed. News of Egan's death and the battle in progress soon reached the reservation, and warriors rushed out to aid their friends, who were slowly retreating. The reinforcements enabled them to drive back the enemy, who retreated further into the mountains. The victor then returned to camp with nine scalps and eighteen women and children as prisoners. A triumphal procession of all Indians on the reservation was formed, and passed in review before the troops, who were drawn up in a line by General Wheaton, that officer having arrived from Walla Wall and taken command. As Ya-tin-ya-ivit, bearing the scalp of Egan on a pole, arrived in front of the commanding officer, he stopped, and pointing to his bloody trophy, said, "Egan, Egan; we give you." "No! No! keep it, you brave man," exclaimed the disgusted officer. The Columbias who had gone to the hostiles stole back to the reservation. Umapine was believed by whites to have joined the hostiles, and to have betrayed Egan as a means of getting back again and being forgiven ; but Major Cornoyer, who stayed upon the reservation when the people all supposed the Indians to be unfriendly and kept himself fully posted on their movements, believes that Umapine's only object in going to the hostile camp was to be revenged upon Egan for the death of his father.

Defeat on the reservation, death of their leader, return of the cavalry, and knowledge that the Columbia river could not be crossed, so disheartened the hostiles that they began to break up and return to their own country. Chief Homely, with eighty picked warriors of the Cayuses and Walla Wallas, joined the troops in pursuit and kept them constantly on the move. Homely reached their front on the seventeenth on Camas creek, and when the retreating bands came along charged into their midst and killed thirty of them without losing a man. He also captured twenty-seven women and children and a number of horses. By this time Howard had reached the Grand Ronde and cut off retreat in that direction, thus accomplishing as a secondary movement what he had designed for a primary one. From this time the seat of war was removed from Umatilla county, and it is unnecessary to follow the details of campaigns against the scattered bands until they were all subdued.

The services of volunteers in this war did much to hold the hostiles in check at various points, and prevent a wholesale desertion of the country, by affording protection to the scattered settlers. They dispersed and drove away the small raiding parties, while the troops were devoting their attention to the main band. By constantly scouting they gave the people a sense of security that led them to return to their homes and save what had escaped destruction by the Bannock's. These volunteers came from every town and hamlet within a hundred miles of the route pursued by the hostiles, many of them being hastily organized as militia, while others served simply as citizen volunteers. There were several bands professing to be volunteers, who were in reality horse-thieves and followed the trail of the raiders to pick up valuable stock and otherwise plunder the deserted ranches. One company in particular was notified by General Howard that if he caught them near his camp they would all swing from a tree. This company was from Idaho and charged with having Indian disguises to aid them in their raids upon the panic-stricken settlers. With these exceptions, the volunteers did splendid work in pacifying the country.

Only one company came from west of the Cascades, and it deserves special mention. When the Bannocks came down the south fork of John Day river, during the last days of June, they had two skirmishes with citizens of Canyon City and vicinity, in which one man was killed and four were wounded. Refuges crowded into that jAace the one side and Prineville on the other. An urgent appeal for help from the latter town was instantly responded to by Brig. Gen. M. V. Brown. During the spring- Paul d'Heirry had organized the scattered companies of the AVillamette valley into the 1st Regiment O. S. M., and had received a commission as Colonel. He was sent out by General Brown with Co. E of Albany, to the relief of the settlers in the region calling for aid. The command consisted of Col. Paul d'Heirry, Maj. J. R. Herren, Quartermaster Lieut. Price, Capt. N. B. Humphrey, 1st Lieut. Mart Angel (superseded in the field by Charles Hewett), 2d Lieut. George Chamberlain-, and about fifty men, with one hundred stands of arms.

The command reached Prineville in four days, marching across the mountains, their feet blistered and lame. Horses were procured there and they pushed on to Murderer's creek, where they captured 150 horses from a band of twenty hostiles and restored them to their owners. Dispatching Lieut. Chamberlain in pursuit of these Indians with a small detatchment,Colonel d' Heirry pushed on to Canyon City, which place he found completely deserted. The town could not be defended because of surrounding bluffs giving a commanding position to an attacking party. The people had all taken refuge in mining tunnels in the hill side above town, leaving fifty guns and 6,000 rounds of ammunition stored in a large brewery to be taken by any one bold enough to enter the town. After E company arrived, the citizens came down from their refuge, when a company was organized and sent to Lieut. Chamberlain, who had been following the fugitives for fourteen days. After they joined that officer, their horses were stampeded one night by the enemy, and they were forced to return to Canyon City on foot.

The next move of Colonel d'Heirry was to go north to the relief of the little town of Susanville, besieged by a small band of hostiles. The Indians fled and were pursued until they scattered and made their escape. Desiring to get nearer the center of hostilities, he avoided the couriers of Governer Chadwick, whom he knew would bring orders for him to remain in the John Day country, and he crossed over to Grand Ronde and from there to Pilot Rock. This action so displeased the Governor, that he called Colonel d'Heirry to Umatilla, and ordered him to return home with his command by the way of Canyon City and Prineville. This was the- only company participating in the war which was organized at the time hostilities commenced.

Col. d'Heirry is now city editor of the Walla Walla Union and was formerly one of the publishers of the Weston Leader. He. is now Ass't. Adj. Gen. with the rank of Colonel, on the staff of Brig. Gen. P. B. Johnson, Adj. Gen. of National Guard of Washington. About 800 guns and 15,000 rounds of ammunition belonging to Washington, were kindly loaned by Governor Ferry to Governor Chadwick. They have not yet been returned nor paid for by the State of Oregon.

The killed and wounded among the citizens of Umatilla county during the war were: Killed - In and near Camas prairie on the fourth of July, John Vay, Earnest Campbell, John Campbell, John Criss, - =-- Castillo; at Nelson's, July 5, Charles L.

The effect of the war upon Umatilla county was very bad. Farmers left their homes at a moment's notice and were gone nearly three weeks. Stock broke into their fields and damaged the crops. Many of them had their houses and barns burned and their stock disabled or driven away. Large bands of sheep and cattle were dispersed in the mountains, where great numbers perished. Settlers who owned nothing but a little stock and a cabin had the one killed or driven off and the other burned. Citizens of Portland subscribed $1800, which were distributed in small amounts among the destitute to enable them to live until they could get to work again. Many stock thieves took advantage of the confused condition of affairs to gather up scattered horses and cattle and run them off. One of these attempted to disable the telegraph operator at Umatilla on the night of July 25, but assaulted the wrong man, severely cutting his head with a slung-shot.

In no instance did the hostiles exhibit bravery, never once making a decided stand before the troops, even when largely outnumbering them. They displayed most savage cruelty in the brutal and horrible mutilation of murdered men. Even dumb animals were barbarously tortured. Cattle in large numbers were wantonly killed or maimed. The legs of sheep were cut off at the first joint, and the poor animals were found days afterwards walking about on lacerated stumps. Others were cut across the back and the hide drawn up to the ears. They cut strips of hide from horses the whole length of the body and left them alive.

As usual in Indian outbreaks, there was a panic among the people. Indians regardless of their tribal relations were held at a discount. They were liable to be shot wherever seen, especially if so situated that they could not shoot back. Is was exceedingly dangerous for an Indian from the reservation to go to Pendleton, as there was always an element of the " home guards " there who wanted to kill him. Even an old, decrepit man, who was well known by all, was looked upon with hostile eye by these warriors. On the twenty-fifth a Columbia Indian named Bill, went to Umatilla and was at once placed under guard in the school house. About midnight he was killed by shots fired through the window. The suspicious and hostile attitude assumed toward reservation Indians rendered them uneasy, and tended to produce an unfriendliness on their part and might have driven them under favorable circumstances to unite with the enemy. Accusations and suspicions against them, founded upon fear and baseless rumor, were telegraphed all over the country, when the fact is, that - with the exception of the four young men who killed Coggan - every act done by them was against the hostiles and in aid of the troops. There were many young men who were restless, especially among tne Umatillas, but they were kept well under control by their chiefs.

On the eighteenth of July Governor Chadwick addressed a letter to Sheriff Sperry, instructing him to arrest all Indians guilty of murder or robbery, to be tried by civil authorities. This was a matter of great difficulty becauscof a lack of witnesses. By appointment a great council was held on the reservation August 26, at which General Howard, Governor Chadwick and others were present. The chiefs were made to understand that the only way to clear themselves and their tribes of blame, was to surrender all that had been guilty of wrongful acts, and hostages were taken to insure their doing so. Some of the Columbia river Indians were arrested, but were afterwards released for want of evidence. At last by the persistent investigation of Major Cornoyer, the murderers of George Coggan were discovered. Four young Umatillas were arrested. One of them gave evidence at the trial in November, and was discharged. White Owl, Quit-a-tunips, and Aps were convicted and sentenced to be hanged. The first two were executed in the jail yard at Pendleton, January 10, 1879, a company of cavalry and one of militia being present as a guard. A week latter Aps was hanged at the same place.

Index Of Contents

California - first intimation of, 6 ; discovof, 6 ; named, 7 ; colony established in, 7, 11, 13, 19; abandonment of, 11 ; conquest of Lower, 13 ; possession of Lower, 13; Franciscans abandon Lower, 16 ; expedition to, 17; possession, 19 ; first battle in, 21 ; irrigation in, 23 ; first overland journey to, 24 ; population of, 27, 29 ; discovery of gold in, 56, 137; Hudson's Bay Company gain control of, 57 ; revolution in, 67 ; immigration to, 84; declared U. S. territory, no.

declaration of wishes, 128; demand Spalding, 130; property captured, 204; sell their country, 159; treaty with, 159, 211; threaten Whitman, 1 14; violence to Mrs. Whitman, 87.

Index

Discovery of - Pacific ocean, 5, 35; California, 6; Cape Mendocino, 7; Oregon, 7, 92; San Francisco bay, 8; Juan de Fuca strait, 9; San Diego bay, 10; Monterey bay, 10; Nootka Sound, 27; San Joaquin valley, 24; Mount Edgecomb, 32; Sandwich Islands, 33; Columbia river, 34, 35; Willamette river, 40; Salt Lake, 55; Lake Ashley, 55; Humboldt river, 56; Mono lake, 56; gold in California, 56, x37; g°ld on Queen Charlotte's Island, 152; coal on Puget Sound, 153; gold in Clarke's river, 158; Oro Fino, or Idaho mines 225, 226; productiveness of Walla Walla uplands, 233, 282, 390; gold on Swock creek, 249.

Expedi ion - under Drake, 7, 8; to California, 17; under Heceta, 32; under Cook, 32; under Martinez, 33; under Gray, 34; under Lewis anrl Clarke, 36; under Thorn, 44; under Thompson, 47; under Hunt, 47; under Stewart, ;o; under Robert Stewart, 50, under McKenzie, 50; under Clarke, 50; by U. S. Government, 54; under Ashley, 55; urr'er J. S. Smith, 55; under McKay, 56; under Pilcher, 58; under Walker, 58; under Bonneville, 58, 59; under Wyeth, 60; under Young, 72.

Fiist - colony, 7; European to land on coast of California, 8; permanent settlement of Lower California, 13, 61; battle with Indians, 14; vessel built on coast, 16; vintage, 16; Governo of California, 18, 20; colony in Upper California, 19; battle in Upper California, 21 ; irrigation in California, 23; overland journey to California 24; visit to the San Jo? quin, 24; int:mation of Columbia river, 32; jou-r^y across the Continent, 35; visit of whites to Nez Perces, 38; occupancy by English, 43; attempt at occupancy by Americans 43; white settlement in Washington Territory, 47; Indian hanged in Wasn- ington Ter., 51; missionaries to Oregon, 62; mission established in Oregon. 62; wagon to cross the Continent, 69; priests in Oregon, 75; printing pr^ss in Oregon, 77; attempt at organization of a form of government in Oregon, 80; petition to Congress from Oregon, 80; judge in Oregon, - 80: Legisla'uie of Oregon, 81; vessel built in Oregon, 84; immigration to California, 84; Indian agent to Oregon, 85; Oregon officials, 94; convent in Oregon, 102; election in Oregon, 102; territorial officers of Oregon, 139; officers of Washington Territory, 154; officers of Walla Walla county, 157; eeting of Walla Walla county coir - missioners, 222; election in Walla Walla county, 222; tax levy in Walia Walla county, 222; court house of Walla Walla county, 222; jail of Walla Walla Walla county, 223; cabin built in Oro Fino, 225; line of stages from Walla Walla to Boise, 232; overland mail to Walla Walla, 233; exportation of flour, 240; exportation of wheat, 240; railroad at Cascades, 259; boat on Upper Columbia, 260; boat on Snake river, 260; merchants in Walla Walla city, 297; farmers in Walla Walla county, 297; building in Walla Walla city, 298; lots sold in Walla Walla city, 299; fire in Walla Walla city, 302; victim of Nez Perce war,

Judicial - First District, 378; bar at Walla Walla, 379; bar at Cheney, 382; bar at Spokane Falls, 383; bar at Colfax, 383; bar at Dayton, 384.

Masons - 316; Walla Walla, 332; Blue Mountain Lodge, 333; Walla Walla Chapter, R. A. M., 333; Columbia Lodge of Perfection, A. and A. S. R., 334: Columbia Chapter Rose Croix, 334; Washington Commandery, K. T., 334; Waitsburg Lodge, 349; Columbia Lodge, 412; Evening Star Lodge, 424; Hiram Lodge, 442; Farmington Lodge, 444.

Monterey bay - discovered, 10; named, 10; supply station to be established at, II; cross planted at, 20; mission established at, 23; battle at, 24; seized, no.

Possession taken - of Lower California, 13, 35; of Upper California, 19, 33, 35; in latitude 580, 32; at Nootka Sound, 33, 35; of Northwest Coast,

San Francisco bay - 7; early discovery evidenced by a chart, 8, 20; re-discovered, 20; named, 20; entered by the San Carlos, 25; mission established, 26.

Whitman massacre - 76, 113, 136; cause as given by Cayuse messenger, 1 15; persons present, 116; messenger sent to Vancouver, 127; list of captives, 130; captives ransomed, 130; list of killed, 131 ; captives reach Oregon City, 131; chiefs hanged and their declaration, 134, 135.

Newspaper offices - Washingtonian, between 300 and 301; Watchman, between 308 and 309; Statesman, between 308 and 309; Union, between 348 and 349; Washington Independent, facing 422.

Tukannon river; Steptoe butte, Kamaiakin mountain, and north end of Blue mountains; three sketches made from one point of observation, showing a general surface view of the country facing 418.

Walla Walla - valley, city and garrison, 8; court house, facing 297; west corner Second and Main streets, between 300 and 301 ; east corner Third and Main streets, between 308 and 309; south corner Third and Main streets, between 308 and 309; schools, facing 322; churches, facing 327 and 330; north corner Second and Main streets, between 348 and 349.