Walla Walla County, Washington - Chapter 24: W.\lla W.\ll.\ City Ix I9oi, 1901

Chapter 24: W.\lla W.\ll.\ City Ix I9oi

We ha\ e presented in the preceding pages of this histor)' the essential features of both the past and present of Walla Walla county and Walla ^^'alla city. We have shown the evolution of the wild Indian country of forty years ago into the productive and orderly homes of civilized men. We have exhibited the present industries and the intellectual and moral instrumentalities of the region. \\'e have taken a journey throughout the length and breadth of the county, viewing its towns, its villages and its farms. To complete the picture it remains only to visit Walla Walla city and examine it as a stranger might, seeking a permanent home for himself and family. In doing this we do not propose a repetition of facts already stated, Init rather a series of such pictures of the town and such facts of its life as would present themselves to the eye of the traveler and investigator.

A traveler approaching Walla \\"alla by the Northern Pacific and Hunt line encounters some risk of that strange and dreadful experience sometimes known as being "pascoed." It occasionally happens that the trains east or west are behind time, antl as the Hunt line trains run on schedule time, the belated traveler finds himself left. He then has no recourse but to remain in Pasco until the train leaves for Walla Walla on the following day. It is said that some have walked rather than pass through that ordeal. But though Pasco has become, in the minds of Walla Walla people a synonym for all that is "weary, stale, flat and unprofitable," it would not be surprising if some time in the near future is should become a beautiful and attractive place. It is admirably situated at the conflux of the two great rivers, the Snake and the Columbia, the soil in the vicinity is fertile, there is an area of prairie land of thousands upon thousands of acres adjacent to the place, and all that is necessary to make a town is water. Many schemes have been proposed for getting water upon these great Pasco plains. The magnitude of the undertaking has thus far staggered pri- \ate enterprise, but when the L'nited States g()\"ernment undertakes the work of irrigation on a great scale, as it doubtless will, the Pasco plains will furnish one of the most hopeful fields for development. A widespread scene of verdure will then greet the eyes of the traveler bound to or from \\'alla Walla, and he may then find a day or more spent at

Walla Walla is unfortunate at the present time in not being on the main line of either road. There are, however, sleeping-cars upon both lines which convey the traveler directly to or from Walla Walla without change.

If we come to Walla Walla by the O. R. & N. line, we find ourselves disembarked at a station in the northern part of the town. If it be daytime when we leave the train, we shall see on all sides around' a level plain so thickly covered with trees ' that the city is hardly visible. This dense foliage is the most noticeable characteristic of Walla Walla to the stranger who has been making his way over the vast treeless prairies which lie between the Cascade and the Blue mountains. Our eyes are speedily attracted to a large group of brick buildings immediately north of the station, and these we learn constitute the Washington State Penitentiary. The author once' observed a j)arty of strangers viewing the penitentiary from the car windows and remarking, "They have fine school buildings in Walla Walla, don't they?"

As one of the most prominent public institutions the penitentiary must be accorded a visit by every one who would thoroughly "do" the Garden City.

The penitentiary became a Walla Walla institution in 1887, having been removed to this place from Seatco. It was largely due to the persistent interest of Mr. Frank Paine that this step was taken. Walla Walla people raised five thousand dollars toward expenses of removal. Governor Squire was favorable to it. The various wardens in charge in their order of service, are as follows: J(jhn Justice,

We meet a most courteous reception from Warden Catron, and from him and from an inspection of the ground and the buildings we soon gather more matter than our present space admits of presentation. We find in the first place that the state has made a generous appropriation of space to the uses of the penitentiary. A farm of one hundred and fifty-five acres, with forty acres additional to be deeded to the state by the federal government, is now devoted to the uses of the institution. On this farm is raised a considerable part of the food supply of the penitentiary. The value of tlie products raised during the last year was $6,- 646.20. Had it not been for an unfortunate attack of hog cholera, it is estimated that the income of the farm would have amounted to about $9,000.

We find within the enclosure of the penitentiary a large number of well-equipped and well-furnished buildings, together with a jute mill and brick yard, the oufput of which constitutes a great item in the income of the penitentiary.

fifty. About three-fourths of the entire number are white males. During the past two years there have been but five females consigned to the penitentiarjr. Nearly half of the convicts are lietween the ages of twenty and thirty. Of four hundred and five convicts on September 30, 1900, thirty-two only were illiterates. There were two college graduates and one graduate of a theological seminary. Of the same fuur hundred and five two hundred and five were temperate, one hundred and ninety-six intemperate, and four were moderate drinkers. In view of the fact that the great majority of the convicts are less than forty years old, it is a somewhat melancholy fact that, of but one hundred both parents are living. Of the four hundred and fi\e tabulated on September 30, 1900, a hundred and five are farmers and laborers, twenty-four are miners, and twenty-nine are sailors. This seems to disprove the somewhat common idea that contact with nature and the physical occupations is conducive to an upright and honest life. So far as we can judge, the whole tendency of the prison discipline and management is humane and sympathetic. Discipline is of necessity firm, and, when occasion demands, severe. The state has been liberal in appropriations for comforts and conveniences in the penitentiary. The most imi)ortant structure made during the past year was the new dining hall and kitchen. This cost but six thousand dollars, and the results are truly surprising. We find a brick building, first-class in every respect, one hundred and sixty-one feet long and forty-three feet wide, with a ceiling of panelled steel, both substantial and artistic. This same building is also employed as a prison chapel. On January 7, 1900, it was dedicated to this purpose, with appropriate religious and musical services. We find an excellent hospital and a prison library of seven hundred and seventeen volumes. The convicts also have the conveniences of bathrooms and suitable lighting and heating.

One of the most interesting features of the penitentiary is the parole system. This system, now of two years existence, consists in the temporary and experimental setting at liberty of convicts whose record seems to oft'er hope that they are thoroughly reformed. While under parole each convict is obliged to have some person of standing in the state named as his first friend and advisor. The paroled prisoner is required to be at all times under the knowledge of tais first friend and advisor, and to be at any time subject to the call of the prison authorities. As a disciplinary measure this system has yielded good reults. The governor has paroled, under the terms of the law, fifteen prisoners. Two of these ran away, of whom one has been recaptured and will be compelled to serve out his full time. The remaining thirteen have carefully observed the requirements of the law and have in the main been steadily employed with good wages.

The most important industrial feature of the penitentiary is the jute mill. This is the result of the thoughtful observation of Messrs. F. Paine and W. K. Kirkman, who observed the evil effects on the prisoners of lack of exercise and occupation. Messrs. F. Paine, P. Preston and Loudon were the commissioners at that time, and to them is due the jute mill. This is one of the most completely equipped manufactories of grain bags and other jute fabrics in the country. When operated to its full capacity the jute mill employed two hundred and filty-fi\-e hands. The output of the mill averages about one hundred and forty thousand grain bags per month, at the same time considerable quantities of hop cloth, matting, special bags, twine, etc. For the period of two years ending September 30, 1900, the sales of jute fabrics, together with stock on hand, amounted to a total of $142,195.07, being a profit of $10,548.37.

The output of the brick-yard was for the same two years $3,854.39, representing a net profit of $647.64. The state has now discontinued making brick for public sale. One kiln of four hundred thousand brick was burned last year for the use of the penitentiary itself.

Having visited the penitentiary first of all (a certain proportion of the citizens of Washington register first in this institution and never visit any other), we will, if you please, proceed "up town." It is literally up town in this case, for, although Walla Walla seems to be upon a level plain, it is in reality upon a slope of about fifty feet to the mile.

One of the advantages of this sloping site becomes apparent even to a stranger, for he sees evidences from workmen and from accumulations of material that \\'alla Walla is building a sewerage system, and the natural slope of the town site gives it a special advantage in the construction of such a system. Among many improvements which have marked the growth of Walla Walla during the past two years we find none so great as that of the city ownership of the water works, and the construction of a sewer system. The Cjuestion of this great step in the history of the city was for several 3'ears the burning subject of Walla Walla city politics. While we are making our way to a hotel we may very properly notice a few of the interesting facts leading to this important consummation.

In the year 1867 Mr. H. P. Isaacs, J. C. Isaacs and J. D. Cook undertook what seemed to most of the inhabitants of Walla Walla the extraordinary project of building waterworks. Their w^orks were located on the present site of Armory Hall. The "outfit" consisted of a large pump, a huge wooden tank, and a quantity of wooden pipe. The water supply came out of Mill creek. The pipe consisted of logs, bored lengthwise by hand with augers. This water system seems not to have been altogether satisfactory, through its habit of working only occasionally when it felt like it. Mr. Isaacs, with his usual energy, soon became dissatisfied with such an inadequate equipment, and abandoned the Mill creek enterprise, turned his attention to the higher land on his own place east of town. He saw that on account of the rapid slope, a gravity system would be entirely feasible. Accordingly, in 1877 he constructed reservoir No. i on his property, the same which now supplies the part of the town north of Mill creek. The water supply was derived from some of the large springs which abound in that region. Mr. Isaacs also built on the south side of Mill creek reservoir No. 2, which was in existence until 1898, when it was succeeded by the present large reservoir in the same place. .Thus it will be seen that the general plan of the waterworks of \\'alla \\'alla was designed by Mr. Isaacs and has remained essentially unchanged, except for enlargement, to th,s day.

In 1887 Mr. Isaacs sold out his interes*: in the waterworks to the Walla \^'alla Water Company. The company at once made great enlargement and improvement in the works, and in that same year made a contract with the city, by which they were to have exclusive right, under certain conditions, to provide the city with water for twenty-five years. As time passed on and the city grew, there developed a strong popular desire that the city own the waterworks and establish in connection with them a suitable system of sewerage. The pressure for this plant grew to overwhelming strength in the year 1893. On July 10 of that year, under the mayoralty of John L. Roberts, a special election was held upon the question of issuing bonds by the city for the purpose of constructing a city system. The result was an overwhelming majority in favor of city ownership of w'ater. Plans were at once inaugurated b}' the mayor and city council to enter upon the construction of a new system. Negotiations between the city and the Water Company for the purchase of the existing system having failed, the Water Company brought suit to restrain the city from building a new system. Their ground of action was the contract previously made, giving them exclusive rights for twenty-five years. After long litigation in the state courts, the case finally reached the supreme court of the United States. The Water Company won the suit. This left the city in a demoralized condition. It had failed in its purpose and had moreover expended several thousand dollars in the maintenance of a losing suit. Nevertheless, the purpose to secure possession of the waterworks and to carry out the plan of the sewerage system did not flag. By public meetings, frequent articles in newspapers, and general agitation, the necessity of municipal ownership of these vital instrumentalities of a wholesome and prosperous town, was kept impressed upon the public mind. And at last in 1899 a proposition was submitted by the water company for the sale of their entire property, land and waterworks. Accordingly on the twentieth of June. 1899, a special election was held to determine the question of the purchase of the water system and the issuance of bonds for the establishment of a sewerage system. The affirmative won by an overwhelming majority. The purchase price of the water works was two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. In part payment the city issued municipal bonds to the value of one hundred and thirtythree thousand dollars. These bonds are to run for twenty years and bear four and a half per cent interest. It is a fine evidence of the standing of Walla Walla in the money markets that these bonds were taken at a premium of one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars on the issue. In addition to those municipal bonds, bonds for the construction of a sewerage system, secured by the income of the water works, bearing five per cent interest and subject to be called in by the city, were issued. It was a source of satisfaction to Walla Wallans that a number of responsible bidders appeared to make offers for these bonds. Both series of bonds were disposed of to Morris & Whitehead, of Portland, Oregon. These indispensable prerequisites having been attended to, the city proceeded at once to advertise for bids for the construction of the sewerage system. A large number of bids were received from various places, and it was decided by the council that the offer of G. H. Sutherland & Company of Walla Walla was most advantageous. ^Accordingly articles of agreement were entered into, and in the spring of 1900 the contractors began active work. The contract calls for twenty-three and one-third miles of sewers. A large part of the task is now completed, and it is expected that the entire work will be accomplished by August, lyoi. Tliis will be considerably ahead of the contract time, which is Oct(.)ber 15th. The sewer system is being constructed of first class material, and the W(_irk is being clone in a manner to commanil tlie confidence of the city. One of tlie important featm-es of the system is the disposal of the sewage. This has been settled by a contract with the Blalock Fruit Company, by which they agree to receive and dispose of the sewage in such a manner as to render it innocuous, and free from further expense to the city. The Blalock company have given heavy bonds for the faithful discharge of their agreement, and in consideration thereof have the privilege of the exclusive use of the sewage for a period of fifty years.

It is appropriate that we complete this part of our observation of the city by reference to the condition of the water works under municipal ownership. An extract from the Walla Walla Union of December 18, 1900, presents, in a better way than can otherwise be done, the condition of the system at that time. It may be added that there bas been a steady gain since that time.

"H. H. Turner, registrar of the Walla Walla waterworks, has submitted his first report for the fiscal year ending November 30, 1900. This report being the first since the city acquired possession of the property it is of considerable interest as it shows how the business of this department has been conducted and its present financial condition. From all appearances the property is in an excellent condition. The report will be submitted to the council for its approval tonight.

"The report shows that from all snurces the revenue has been $34,443.77, which includes water rents, rents of water power, property and the profit on material. Miscellaneous -rents brought in $20,339.08; irrigation .$5,- 665.10 and metered water $4,370.90.

$619.69. The net gain for the year is given as $30,301.74. The expenditures of the distributing system amounted to $709.50 and $17,787.73 has been paid in to the city treasurer. The cash statement shows receipts of $34,169.78, and disbursements of $31,072.32, leaving a cash balance of $3,- 097.46.

"A total distance of 25 miles, 3,500 feet of water mains are shown to be laid in the city, being an extension since the beginning of the year of S./Oiyi feet. A total of 95 meters are in operation which have been maintained at the rate of 41 cents per meter for the entire year, and the amount of water metered at 16,512,625 gallons.

"The report goes on to state that the stand pipe formerly connecting with reservoir No. 2 near the Odd Fellows' home has been moved to the reservoir near Whitman street and located on the hill. 'Your committee.' the report says, 'has wisely adopted the policy of declining to extend mains unless sufficient business is in sight to pay a liberal return on the cost. Several applications have been rejected on this ground.

" 'Some of our water rates are considerably higher than the neighboring cities of larger size, but our schedules compare favorably with those of cities in the northwest whose population is aljout the same as ours.' It is then recommended that as soon as business will warrant that the schedule be revised. On the other hand it is suggested that extensions of mains will have to be made to outlying districts, notably Bryant's addition, so as to supply families living there."

We have l:)een proceeding in a very leisurely manner to our hotel, while taking notesupon the water and sewerage systems of the citv. But at last we reach the Inisiness part

town and between the tliree principal hotels, the State, the Palace, and the Dacres, we repair to the last named. This well equipped and comfortable hotel occupies the historic spot held for many years by the Stine House. The Stine House was one of the fixed institutions of Walla Walla. It had held its position for so many years that no one had dreamed of the ix)ssibility of its being destroyed by flood, fire, pestilence, or any other agency. When therefore on July 22, 1892, the Stine House deliberately went to work and burned up, the people of Walla Walla rubbed their eyes in astonishment, thinking it quite possible that the next event would be the burning of Pike's Peak. This unfortunate fire being in the very midst of the hard times, the owners felt little encouragement to rebuild, and hence the unsightly ruins of the historic old Stine House remained for years .an eye-sore to the aesthetic and a menace to the timid. For the former could not look at it danger of strabismus, and the lat- .ter could not pass it, especially at night, without suspicion of foot-pads lurking within. Finally in the year 1899, which thus far may be considered the champion year for building, George Dacres, one of the moneyed men of 'Walla Walla, purchased the property and by erecting an elegant, first-class hotel, with all modern improvements, supplied one of the greatest needs of the town.

Having satisfied the inner man with the excellent menu provided at the table of the Dacres, and having rid the external man of some of the surplus dust which is sure to gather upon the traveler from Wallula to Walla Walla, we sally forth in search of further experience.

activity, but it must also be confessed that they give the impression of a plentiful lack of cleanliness. For, during the greater portion of the year, the streets of the otherwise fair city are in such a condition from mud, dust, or other defilement, that sales of blacking are said to have ceased except to superlative dudes, and only the leisure classes make a regular practice of keeping their hands and faces clean. It should in justice, however, be noted that the past two years have seen a considerable improvement in the condition of the streets.

For a city of a little over ten thousand inhabitants, ^^'alla Walla shows evidence of a very large amount of business. This is due to the fact that it gathers to itself the trade of a comparatively well settled region, over an area of probably a thousand square miles. The streets are therefore thronged with country people and those from adjoining towns.

This concentration of business has made Walla Walla a very wealthy city. It is said to be surpassed in per capita wealth by only three cities in the United states. These are Hartford, Connecticut, Helena, Montana, and Portland, Oregon. It is therefore without surprise that we see evidence of the stability and largeness of transactions of the banks. There are three banking institutions in the place. Two of these, the First National and the Baker-Boyer bank, may justly be called pioneer banks. The third, the Farmers' Savings bank, is of later origin. The first of these banks was the Baker-Boyer, established in 1870. At first a private bank, it became reestablished as a national bank. Dr. D. S. Baker and J. F. Boyer for many years constituted its management. At the present time ex-Governor Miles C. Moore is president, ^^'. W. Baker, vice-president, H. E. Johnson, cashier, and John ^I. Hill, assistant cashier. The deposits of the Baker-Boyer liank on September 5, 1900, were $670,090.83. The First National bank was established in 1872 as a private bank by A. H. Reynolds, Sr. The management was known at that time under the firm name of Reynolds & Day. It subsequently became a national bank and became largely the property of Levi Ankeny. At the present time Levi Ankeny is president, A. H. Reynolds, Jr., vice-president, A. R. Bur ford, cashier, and P. M. Winans, assistant cashier. The deposits of this bank on September 5, 1900, were $791,378.89. The Farmers' Saving bank was founded in 1889 and has continued to be a savings bank to the present time. Its president is ^^^ P. Winans ; vice-president, G. W. Babcock, and cashier, Joel Chitwood. The average deposits of this bank at the present time may be stated in round numbers at $300,000.00. Thus it may be seen that the average deposits of the banks of Walla Walla are about one and three-quarter million dollars, an immense showing for a place of the ^ize of Walla Walla.

Leaving the banks, duly impressed with the idea that where there is so much money there certainly ought to be a large amount of trade, we find our expectations confirmed by an examination of the mercantile establishments. We find these in general heavily stocked with all kinds of new and standard goods. Some of the existing stores of Walla Walla are of peculiar interest on account of the,ir antiquity. The Schwabacher store was founded in the 'sixties. The same is true of the hardware of William O'Donnell, the merchandise store of Kyger & Foster, and the bakery of O. Brechtel. Some of the largest stores of the present time, however, are of recent origin, .as the hardware and furniture store of Davis

& Kasar, the dry goods and clothing store of O. P. Jaycox, and the agricultural implement houses of Criffield & Smitten and John Smith. The various grocery stores Ukewise do an immense business, both in purchasingsupplies from the farmers and in disposing of their standard merchandise.

We have spoken so fully in the preceding chapter of the fruit dealers, the millers, and the manufacturers, that it is not necessary to consider them again here. Leaving these therefore we will saunter more leisurely through the rest of the business section, and then through the residence section of the city. We find among the other semi-public institutions two excellent and well equipped hospitals. These are, first, the St. Mary's hospital, under control of the Catholic Sisters, which was established in 1870, and was extensively enlarged in 1899. The other hospital was built in 1899, and is owned and conducted by Dr. J. F. Cropp. Both these hospitals are equipped for the best surgical work and scientific nursing. Among recent acquisitions of the Walla Walla hospital is an X-ray instrument, which has proved of great service in some recent cases.

A ride through the residence portion of Walla Walla, especially if it be the leafy month of j\Iay, will convince the visitor that here is one of the most homelike of Washington cities. The suburbs of the place are peculiarly attractive. Without entering into invidious comparisons, it may be said the homes of E.x- Governor Moore, W. A. Ritz, Dr. Fall, \\\ W. Baker, Mrs. Stone, Max Baumeister, and the heirs of H. P. Isaacs, are of themselves sufficient to give distinction to the outer circuit of the town. We have spoken of the profusion of trees which decorate the streets and yards of the city. It may be added that if io also fairly emliowered in shrubbery and flowers of all sorts. Of these, roses ])reclominate. tlmuirh tlicrc are at proper seasons ])erfect Ijanks of crysantliemunis. To the oldtimer who recalls the dismal and sun-parched desert which from i860 to 1S75 constituted the site of the town, and then \'ie\vs the present verdure and glow of color, tlowers, shrubbery, and fruit trees, redolent with the fragrance of spring, the change seems almost too striking for belief.

Turning again from the solid comforts of the residence pnrtinn of the town to the public institutions, we shall find the schools worthy of an extended visit. The historic facts of these institutions have been presented else- Avhere. but we desire to observe here the housing and e(|ui]3ment prox'ided for the young students of Walla Walla. The three public school buildings, the Baker, the Paine, and the Sharpstein, are admirably built and equipped. The Baker school is the oldest of the three and less attractive and convenient than the others. The Paine school is the largest of the three, and in addition to the ordinary primary and grammar grades, contains also the high-school department. The Sharpstein school is the most recent of the three and the most thoroughly provided with all modern conveniences. We find Prof. R. C. Kerr, the city superintendent. Miss L. L. West, the principal of the Baker school. Prof. F. I\L Burke, the principal of the Paine school, Prof. G. S. Bond, the principal of the Sharpstein school, and Prof. JW. Shepherd and Miss Rose Dovell, of the high-school, to be teachers of thurough training, large experience, and high ambition in their important profession. One excellent means of attaining their high standard has been the regular county and city teachers' institutes.

The visitor having already become interested in the educational system of the town will desire to visit the other institutions of learning. He will very naturally make his way to the largest of these institutions, Whitman College. He will find this college established in fi\-e buildings. The oldest of these and one of the historical landmarks of the town is the rear portion of the Ladies' Hall. This building, subsec|uently enlarged, has become a comfortable home for about thirty of the college girls. Adjoining this is the Conservatory of Music, formerly the main recitation hall. A small building upon the left of this is used as a Y. M. C. A. hall. L^pon the north side of the street we find the two principal buildings of the college, Memorial Hall and Billings Hall. The former of these, the gift of Dr. D. K. Pearsons of Chicago, was erected at a cost of $50,000.00, in 1899. It is without question the finest schoul building in the Inland Empire, with the exception of the Idaho University and the Washington Agricultural College buildings and the Spokane high school. Billings Hall received its name from the sons of ]\Irs. Frederick Billings, who was the largest individual donor, though many gifts, both in Walla Walla and in the east, were received for this noble purpose. The most interesting contrilniti'>n. however, was one of nearly a thousnnd dollars by the students of the college. The faculty themselves, though ill qualified to make such a contribution, added to this another thousand, and these subscriptions together may be said to have insured the completion of Ijoth builcHngs, since subscriptions in the town had practically come to a standstill, and in order to secure the gifts of eastern benefactors it had become necessary to raise the entire sum for both buildings before commencement of 1899. The jubilee in tiie college and aniung its friends everywhere, when it was knuwn that this decisive step in advancement had been taken, can never be forgotten by those who knew of it. We find Whitman College to have at the present time in all departments about two hundred and si.xty students, with a faculty of fourteen capable and enthusiastic teachers, an excellent library of nearly eight thousand volumes, and a well equipped physical laboratory.

Walla Walla is evidently destined to take on more and more the character of an educational center. For we have only to pass a dozen blocks south from Whitman College to find ourselves in front of the beautiful grounds and buildings of St. Paul's school. Liasmuch as we have already learned in another chapter the facts in the history of this institution, we need not here do more than enter into the commodious and beautiful building erected in 1900, and see the excellent work that is being done by Miss Boyet and her assistants. W^e shall probably meet in this visit Rev. Andreas Bard, the rector of the Episcopal church, who has been a most important factor in the building up of this institution, as well as one of the brilliant lights of the Walla Walla pulpit.

^It would not do for the visitor to Walla Walla interested in educational matters to fail of a visit to Walla Walla College, whose fine hrick building towers conspicuously upon the plain, two miles west of the city. This also has been elsewhere described, and it may sufiice to say here that a considerable village of honest and industrious people of the Seventh Day .\dventist faith has gathered around this college as a nucleus. Although devoted to the peculiar tenets of their faith, there is no question as to the excellence of the instruction along the lines of study provided. .\nd whatever may be thought nf the peculiar doctrinal views (if this sect, no one around Walla Walla doubts their sincerity of purpose and all heartily endorse their ideas of hygiene, cleanliness, and wholesome food.

In our ]3eregrinations throughout the irregular and pictures([ue streets of the Garden city, we discover that although, as already intimated, there is much to be desired in the way of improving those streets, yet that the town is well provided with telephone and electric service. It is said in fact that Walla Walla has more telephones according to its population than any other town in the state. By a visit to Mr. F. J. McGougan, the present manager of the city telephones, we gather the following interesting matter in respect to the telephone system :

Telephones were established in eastern W^ashington in 1S86. There were at that time a mere handful of subscribers in ^^'alla \\'alla, Colfax and Spokane. Upon the organization of the Inland Telegraph and Telephone Company in May, 1890, three long distance lines v;ere established. One extended from Spokane to Davenport, another to the Cncur d'Alene, and one to Walla Walla l)y way of Colfax. The hard times affected the telephone business like others, but with the revival of 1896 the business of both local and long distance lines received an immense growth. At the present time there are six hundred and sixty telephone subscribers in ^^'alla ^^'alla. Any one of these can be placed in immediate communication with ninety thousand subscribers of the Pacific States' Telegraph and Telephone Company, besides many others in the territory of the Rocky Mountain Bel! Telephone Company, which comprises Idaho, Utah and Montana. There are also seventeen hundred public stations in the territory of the first named compan\- which can be reached by telephone.

Every city, town, and even village in the weit is now reached by telephone. The equipment has been constantly improved, and conversations can now be carried on at a thousand miles distance more easily than at a hundred miles ten years ago. The increase of subscribers during the year 1900, in the territory of the Pacific State Telegraph and Telephone Company was 21,206.

The lighting system is at the present time under the management of the \\'alla \\'alla Gas and Electric Company. The ancestor of this company was the Walla Walla Gas Company, founded in 1881 by A. Pierce and C. M. Patterson. In 1887 Messrs. Wads^vorth and Bromwell, of San Francisco, and IMr. C. E. Burrows, of Walla Walla, became the owners of the gas plant. In 1888 the Walla Walla Electric Light and Power Company was incorporated. The business does not seem to have been a financial success until the city agreed to adopt the arc lamp for public lighting. In 1889, accordingly, the \\'alla Walla Gas and Electric Company was incorporated by a union of the two companies with a capital stock of one hundred thousand dollars. .At that time a substantial stone and brick building was erected, and a 140-horse power engine was installed. This proved inadequate for the growing needs of the city, and in 1892 the company established a water power on Mill creek, upon the place of E. G. Riffle. After the establishment of this power excellent service was provided, but during the past two years it has been found that the great increase in demand for lights has necessitated another increase in power. The company is, therefore, planning to erect a stand pipe upon their property on Mill creek, w'hich will greatly increase the capacity of the plant. The number of arc lights now provided in the city is "/"/.

The immensely augmented demand for electric lights and the apparent financial success of the present company has encouraged other capitalists to consider the advisability of a new system. The city has passed an ordinance granting a general form of franchise with certain privileges and certain requirements of any company which may choose to enter into the electric business. Under this general opportunity a plan for a very extensive electrical, apparatus at the forks of the Walla \\'alla river has been framed by several of the moneyed men of Umatilla county and of Walla W'alla. This company has already secured a franchise for the purpose of bringing light and electric power to the city. Gustavus X. Miller, the company's engineer, has recently given the following information in regard to the enterprise :

"The plant is to be situated at the forks of the Walla Walla river, about twelve miles almost due .south of this city and the buildings and machinerj' there to erected will cost in the neighborhood of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The power is almost unlimited and is by far the easiest acquired that I have ever seen where so great a head could be obtained. It will be necessary to pipe the water a distance of fourteen thousand, five hund^red feet in a barrel flume and at the place of dumping a head of two hundred feet will be easily obtained. This will mean at least four thousand horsepower and the advantages of such a giant force when chained and turned to the uses of the hands of man are too great to be realized at a single thinking.

"The flume will be 54 inches in diameter and will be constructed of wooden staves, laid lengthwise. The minimum flow of W'ater at the dry season will he fifteen thousand gallons per minute and during the other portions of the year much greater. The electricity gen- erated will be conveyed to tliis city Ijy means of four wires and the energy lost in transmission will, be practically nothing. There will be required in the city of Walla Walla a distributing station in order that the fluid can be sent out to the different portions of the city and transferred into light or power which ever the case might be.

"it is also the intention of the company to run lines of wire to both Athena and Weston and I think to Pendleton, also. Also, it is highly probable that a large amount will be used by the farmers both for the purpose of operating their farm machinery and to light their homes. Take for example during the harvest season. Any farmer can own an electric motor. When harvest comes around he will cut his grain and haul it all to one point ip the field where his separator has been established and connected with his motor. It does away not only with the necessity of ha\'ing an engine for this work but also with salaries which would have to be paid to both an engineer and a fireman.

"An electrical line to Milton, Waitsburg, and other points would also pay, I think, and Avill probabl}' be built within a comparatively short time. There is a fine chance for Walla Walla to improve along this line and it will undoubtedly be taken advantage of by someone within the next few years."

It is hardly necessary to say that in addition to its other means of communication with the rest of the world, Walla Walla has complete telegraphic communicatinn. Init as a historical item of interest we are reminded by an old-timer with wdiom we converse that it was on June i, 1870, that Walla Walla was first connected by lightning with the outside world. This pioneer telegraph line was Iniilt by the Oregon Steam Navigation Company.

James Henderson was the first operator in. Walla Walla, and the office was located on the southwest corner of Main and Third streets. The passage of the first messages was made a great occasion in the little city. A minute gun was fired and there was band music of a joyful nature. The first message transmitted was from Mayor Stone to Mayor Goldsmith, of Portland, and read :

To the Mayor of Portland - Greeting: Allow me to congratulate you on the completioa of the telegraph that places the first city of Oregon in connection with the metropolis of Washington, and to express the hope that it is lint the precursor of the iron rail that is to unite us still more indissolubly in the bonds of interest and affections.

Portland, June i, 1870, Mayor Frank Stone, Walla Walla - -Your sentiments are reciprocated. May the completion of the telegraph between Walla Walla and Portland tend to still further the prospects and good feelings of both cities, and your territory and our state. B. Goldsmith, Mayor.

While observing the lighting systems and the various communication systems of the city, our attention is called to the fact that there are no street-car lines in Walla Walla. Conversation again with an old-timer discloses the fact that during the boom year of 1889 a car line was built from the O. R. & N. station to Second street, where it divided, one branch going to- Whitman College, the other branch to the city cemetery. After the disastrous collapse which followed so closely upon the heels of the boom (although it is proper to say that the collapse affected Walla Walla less than any other city on the Pacific coast), it became obvious that the street-car line was premature. Nevertheless the company continued operating it for several years, although at a loss, and then granted to a local company the privilege of using the line without other expense than its maintenance for several years longer. Even under these conditions the company did not find the line sufficiently patronized to make it profitable. Accordingly in 1898 the line was entirely abandoned and the roadbed taken up. This pioneer street-car line would doubtless have paid, even in spite of the hard times, had it not been for the great number of horses and carriages and bicycles in the town. On account of its having been for years a center of stock and agricultural interests, Walla Walla has abounded in horses. The people, moreover, have had the habit of both riding and driving to such an extent as not to "take" naturally to street-cars. By reason also of the large number of well equipped livery stables, carriage hire is very low. \^isitors from the sea-board towns, where from a dollar to a dollar and a half is the ordinary hack fare, are much astonished to discover that in Walla W'alla hack fare anywhere w'ithin the city limits is only "two bits." Furthermore, on account of the level site and wide streets of the town, it is an ideal bicycle town. And in spite of the fact, as we learn, that bicyclists have had much tribulation from city ordinances in regard to the use of sidewalks, Walla \\'alla is said to contain more bicycles per capita than any other town in the state. The number of bicycle tags issued by the city marshal to date is eleven hundred and fiftv. These tags werp issued in pursuance of an ordinance by the city council, imposing a tax of a dollar upon each bicycle. The announced purpose of this ta.x was to make a system of bicycle paths throughout the town. Thus far this laudable plan has languished, and many and violent are the anathemas w'hich bicyclists of all ages and sexes pronounce upon the heads of the "town dads."

Our observations thus far have extended over the business, educational, and communication phases of the life of the city. We can not do justice to our subject without learning something of the social, intellectual, and moral life of the place. Walla Walla is often called a "moss-back" town, and it is apparently true that the controlling influences are conservative and disinclined to venture into new schemes in either business or society. It appears also that tlie general spirit of the place is rather individualistic than co-operative, and that public enterprises, looking to municipal betterment, are not readily adopted. The people therefore "abuse" each other for their supposed lack of public spirit. In spite of this Walla Walla is conspicuous for its simplicity, hospitality, and general sociableness of its people. As noted elsewhere, there are numerous strong lodges of all the standard fraternities. The frequent entertainments and celebrations of these fraternities make occasions of interest and profit for all the people of the place. All manner of social gatherings are frequent and influential for good. One of the most potent public benefactions is the public library and reading room, where strangers may find entertainment, and young people of the place, who might otherwise acquire indolent and vicious habits, can gain solid l)enefit.

Main Street, Walla Walla, In 1877 Main Street. Walla Walla, In 1901

Walla Walla opera house. Tliis very important feature of a town was erected by D. W. Small in the year 1884. In the next j-ear, on account of a defect in the construction of the roof, a great weight of snow caused the building to collapse. It was but by the narrowest margin that a great number of people escaped being crushed within the ruins, as the collapse occurred but an hour or two before a large fair was to have been opened. In the year 1894 the opera house came into the possession of Paine brothers, who made great improvements in it and equipped it in a first class manner. At the present time C. F. Van de Water is the lessee and manager of the opera house. There is an almost constant series of operatic and theatrical entertainments, mostly of a standard quality. We find a sentiment among the more cultured people of the place that the Shakesperian drama and other high class performances might be encouraged to a larger degree, with both greater benefit to the public and greater profit to the manager.

For a comparatively new city, the church life of Walla Walla is active and efficient. A liberal stranger, however, is impressed with the idea that there is too large a number of weak churches, and that therefore the moral and religious energy of the place is not utilized to the best advantage. We are told- that a religious census by the pastors of the city produced the following general result : Number of families visited, 1,622; numljer of persons reported, 6,042; number of cluuxh attendants, 3,733; number of church members, 2,146; number of Sunday school attendants, 1,677. A reliable index to the intellectual condition of a place is its amount of postoffice business. A visit to this institution and an interview with Postmaster E. L. Brunton re\-eals a number of interesting facts. It is estimated that over fifteen thousand people receive their mail through the Walla Walla postoffice. About thirty-five hundred receive their mail through the boxes. There are four carriers at present on the city routes, with great need of another. There were two new clerks added during the past year, and the business of the office warrants another. The gross receipts of the office for 1899 were $16,378.36. Those for 1898 were $15,178.29 and those for 1896 were $12,717.19. This record shows a steady and remarkable increase, and that for the year 1900 shows the same ratio of gain, being $17,437.17. There is reason to expect that, in the near future there will be established in Walla Walla a system of free rural delivery, and when this is done it will add for the farmers of Walla Walla one more reason for an affirmative answer to the question, "Is life worth living?"

From the postoffice we proceed to the City Hall, and here by an interview with city clerk R. P. Reynolds we gather a number of interesting facts in regard to the city work and finances, in addition to those already given under the head of the water works and sewerage systems. Among them we learn that the general receipts of the city for the year 1900 were $45,268.04, and the expenses $32,629.38. There is a floating indebtedness upon the city of $27- 806.41. In connection with the City Hall is the City Fire Department. And concerning tliis we find a very complete summary in a special num])er of the Daily Statesman, which we quote.

"In addition to a paid fire department, Walla Walla has what might be considered the most efficient volunteer fire service of any state in the country. It has a comi)lete apparatus, consisting of two of the latest steam fire en-

"The city has a volunteer force of over 125 men who respond to every alarm. There are three volunteer companies in Walla Walla, each of which is limited to a membership of 40 men. The entire .department is under the direction of a chief, who, at the present time is Dr. Y. C. Blalock, one of the veterans of the volunteer service. Dr. Blalock is ably assisted by W. H. Weber, as first assistant, and Frank Ennis, as second assistant. The several officers of the organization are :

"One of the oldest of the three volunteer companies is the Tiger No. i, which has 40 members. Many of Walla Walla's oldest citizens have at different times served" with this company. The officers at present are :

"Peter Werner, president; John Kramer, vice-president; W. H. Weber, secretary; Albert Neibergall, treasurer ; James Corliss, foreman; William Ritter, assistant foreman; Rudolph Seifke, second assistant foreman. Tiger No. I was organized February 22, 1877.

"Rescue No. i is another efficient company, with a membership of 40, which was organized in March, 1894. The officers are: Harry Riffle, president; J. P. Scalley, vicepresident; Frank Ennis, secretary; George Retzer, treasurer; William O'Rorke, foreman; R. M. White, assistant foreman.

"The third company is known as 'Our Boys No. 3,' which was organized in July, 1895, and has a membership of 40. Its officers are : J. W. Mackay, president ; William Foster, vice-president; Al Kelling, secretary; J. F. Krepps, treasurer; John Bachtold, foreman.

James W. Mackay is one of the oldest members in the volunteer fire service, having joined in 1895, ^n<i served continuously since that time. He has been the president of 'Our Boys No. 3' company, since 1893, and was president of the Eastern Oregon and Washington Fireman's Association in 1898.

"Harry Debus, the present secretary of the local organization, started as a torch-boy with Tiger No. i, in 1879, and has served continuously ever since that time. He has, at various times, held the offices of president, secretary and treasurer of his company. Mr. Debus was a prominent member of one of the early hose teams and has been on several of the teams which have won the state championship in the various contests of the Eastern Oregon and Washington Fireman's Association.

"Many of the oldest resident citizens of Walla Walla have served a full term in one of the three volunteer companies and are now on the retired list. Among them are : John Aheit, Sr., Jacob Betz, John P. Kent, A. Swartz, Emil Sanderson, J. J. Kauffman and J. P. Justice.

"The term of service in the volunteer fire department is seven years, during which time and thereafter the members are exempt from the payment of poll tax and service as jurymen. About one hundred are now on what is termed the retired list, having completed seven years of service and received honorable discharges. Every member of each company is expected to respond to the alarm of fire, day or night, and if an employe of any firm in the city, he is permitted to leave his work, without a deduction of his salary.

"The aim and object of the volunteer fire department is, in addition to providing a force for protection against fire, to hold annual tournaments, annual competitions and picnics

"The next meeting and tournament of the Eastern Oregon and Washington Fireman's Association will be held in Walla Walla, on June 13 and 14. During this meeting there will be various contests, and Walla Walla's celebrated hose team will again be a competitor in one of the competitions. This team under the captaincy of Emil Sanderson, has won the championship in all the contests since 1885, and there is but little doubt that it. will carry off the laurels at the coming tournament.

"Walla Walla has the distinction of having the first steam apparatus in the state of Washington. The volunteer fire department was organized in 1868, the Tigers being the first company, and operating an old-time hand engine when the company was first organized, and for some time thereafter."

Questions of sewerage and water-works having been satisfactorily settled, the greatest subject now looming up in municipal politics is that of a new charter. Walla Walla has existed under a unique charter, the only one of the kind in the state, bestowed upon the city in territorial days. As it appears that Walla \\'alla has now surpassed the population of ten thousand people, and become a city of the secor:d class, the question is being agitated as to reincorporation. It will be an interesting thing to future readers and historians to find here a statement of the requirements for such reincorporation, together with something of current public opinion in regard to it. An examination of the laws with respect to this elicits the folfowing facts :

To become a city of the second c'ass there must be a petition signed by two hundred or more freeholders of Walla Walla presented to the council, and that body must call a special election to designate that at the next regular election this cpestion will be submitted to the voters of the city. In voting for this the marking on the ballot will be "For Advancement" or "Against Advancement." After it has been decided to become a second class city, there m.ust be an election held at which the following officers are to be chosen by the people : Mayor, twelve councilmen, collector and street commissioner (combined), assessor, police judge, and city attorney.

The changes resulting from passing into the second class would be many. The increase in the council would be followed by an increase in the permissible expenses of the city government. There would be no necessary increase in the expenses, but some of the salaries might be made higher if the board of aldermen saw fit.

One of the most important changes would be in the schools inside the city limits which, according to the law, have already ceased to exist as district schools and have entered the class of city schools. This form of school requires a board of education consisting of five m.embers instead of a school board of three n;embers as at present. The members of this board are elected for a term of three years, the election occurring the first Saturday in the month of November. The board of directors of the public library is also changed from three to five, which are appointed by the mayor with the consent of the council.

The other officers of the cit\' shall be appointed by the mayor with the consent of the council and shall be : Chief of police, treasurer, clerk, surve3'or, poundmaster, and. if so desired, superintendent of irrigation. For these officers the salaries of only the chief of police, clerk and trcasiu'er are stipulated.. The chief of police cannot receive m(M"e than one

The salaries of the city attorney and tiie city justice are not stipulated and may lie fixed ar whatever the council may see fit. The assessor will be paid the sum of five hundred dollars per year and the collector and street commissioner cannot draw more than fifteen hundred dollars per year. Xo other salaries are stipulated. The chief of the fire department will he elected by the council and not by the volunteer firemen as at the present time. There may also be, if the council sees fit, a city jailor, to be appointed by the mayor.

The city election is fixed for the fir.-^t Monday after the first Tuesday in December and six councilmen shall be elected each year after the first election, at which time the entire tweive will be chosen, the hold-overs to l)e decided by lot. The council must choose one of its number to act as president during the absence of tlie mayor and tiiere shall be a board of three councilmen, whose duty it shall be to try all cases of complaint against policemen or other city officers for neglect of duty, exceeding their authority and similar crimes whenever such charges shall have been preferred. The mayor shall have a vote in case of a tie in the council.

Any oliiccr shall have the power to select and appoint, subject to the approval of the council, such deputies as he may deem necessary for the proper performance of the duties of his office. The salaries of these deputies must not exceed the sum of one hundred dollars per month in any case.

In connection with the question of a new charter a difference of opinion has developed, the central point of which seems to be the powers of the mayor. The conflicting opinions have been represented by the Union and the

Statesman, the former maintaining the -concentration of power in the hands of the mayor, and the latter advocating a ixjpular election for every ofificer and a consequent distrilnition of power, and consequently it favors the retention of the present charter. We present extracts from the two papers, in the belief that such a preservation of current opinion will prove of liermanent interest :

Spokane is discussing the proprifty of giving the mayor more authority on appointnifnts. It is believed that in this way the expenditures can be kejit under better control. The idea is that the mayor is the general manager of a business, and that to be successful he should be given the widest scope in his management of affairs, and then be held responsible for results.

There is something in this that should appeal to the people of Walla Walla. In Spokane the mayor is recognized as the head of the city government, but there is also a board of county commifsioners, a board of public works and a board of tire commissioners. The individuals appointed by the mayor constitute these boards, one member being the head of each board and these boards select the appointees. By this act the mayor loses actual control and vests it in his appointees. In a measure this IS a success, but it is not as successful as it would be in case the appointments were directly in the hands of the mayor. There is a chance for the mayor to evade the responsibility for errors, which should not be.

If the control of the city government is placed in the hands of the mayor, then the people can hold him responsible for the errors and by the same token he is entitled to the credit for a successful administration. The people should not divide the responsibility. For good work or bad it should be placed as nearly as possible in the head of the city government.

It is jiroper and right that the mayor, the treasurer, the councilmen, the assessor, the police judge or city justice and the street commissioner should be elected by the people, am) there would be no great harm done if the clerk and the attorney were also elected, though there is no doubt but the better government would be secured if the clerk and the attorney were appointed. This is not a new suggestion. It is the method which applies in a majority of the cities, large and small, in all the cities of the United States. It is found to be good law in Spokane Seattle and Tacoma: why is it not good law here to appoint the head of the police department, and have him responsible to the mayor? ,-\s has been pointed out before, if the mayor is to be the head of the city government and is to be held responsible for the success of his administration, lie should have thf police force under, not ecjual with, him. The attorney is largely counsel for the mayor and the council; thence he should be appointed and confirmed, for in this manner an attorney is always secured who is acceptable and in whom all parties have confidence. The clerk is very close to the council and could be appointed, as he should be chosen for his clerical ability rather than anything else, though as other duties are placed upon him it is largely a technical (juestion whether he is elected or appointed.

It is proposed to make for Walla Walla a new charter. There are not many reasons apparent for this change, but since we have reached the dignity of a city of the seeond class in point of population there are those who think we should cast aside our former official clothing and wear something different.

There is a plot in this proposed program. One not seen by the people at a glance, and yet one which in future years may seem a great deal to everyone here. It is suggested by" some," and argued by the Union, the organ of these " some," that the offices of chief of police, attorney and clerk be appointed; that they be named by the mayor and held at his will. There is no reason in the world for such a move save a desire to build up a political machine.

If the mayor can name the chief of police, the chief of the fire department, the attorney and the clerk, will he not name those who have used their pull to get him in office, and who, when they are once in, will use their official positions to continue the machine of which they are then a part? Has this not been the history of all cities? Is it not the very thing which is causing trouble and scandal in more than one city at this time? Is not this building of political machines the cause of forcing honest citizens in many cities to take the work of reform in their own hands.

The city of Walla Walla may be metropolitan, but it is not metropolitan to the extent that it desires a corrupt machine in the city hall and a public scandal in the papers. Elect the officers. Bring every man who is connected with the management of city affairs as close to the people as possible. Have the people say whom they may want for chief of police, for clerk and for attorney. In county affairs are certain officers appointed that better men may he secured? More efficient men are secured by appointment than by election, argues the Union. Then why not, in county affairs, appoint the clerk and the attorney and the sheriff instead of electing them?

The giving of too much power to the mayor is dangerous. It has so proven in every city in which it has been done, and Walla Walla ought to recognize the fact that she can gain much by the experience of others.

\\'alla. It is sometimes necessary to remind a stranger that Fort Walla Walla, under the Hudson's Bay regime, meant the old fort at the present site of Wallula. As elsewhere narrated, that was abandoned about the year 1853. Jn the winter of 1856-7 rude barracks were established by the soldiers within the present limits of Walla Walla city. During the fall of 1856 a considerable number of soldiers occupied huts constructed of poles and slabs set on end and roofed witli dirt, brush, and rye grass. Several log cabins for the officers were put up in the same vicinity, which was the present location of McBride's 1 '- - stable. One of those buildings was standing until about six years ago. In October of 1856 General Wool directed Colonel Wright to establish a pennanent military post at some point ii-. the Walla Walla valley. In pursuance of these directions Colonel Wright issued orders from his post at The Dalles to Colonel Steptoe to locate the post. The present location of the post (and a more beautiful and convenient one it would be hard to imagine) is due to Colonel Steptoe, assisted by Charles Russell and Joseph McEvoy. In the spring of 1S57 permanent buildings were erected and Lieutenant- Colonel Steptoe took charge of the fort. By i860 the buildings were substantially as at present.

Our space is insufficient to give any historical narrative of Fort Walla Walla. Suffice it to say that it has been a prominent financial and social, as well as military, feature of the place. There have been usually about two hundred soldiers established here. There has been m.uch talk at times of abandonment of the fort, but it seems now that there is no reason to ap- ]5rehend such a step in the near future. Thousands of dollars are spent yearly in the county for the inirchase of provisions and equipment for tlie fort. The gallant officers, together with the accomplished ladies of the fort, have become almost indespensable to the ongoings of society in the town. For these and allied reasons the people of Walla Walla greatly deprecate any talk of abandonment.

We have mentioned bnt a small part of the interesting features, historical and descriptive, which an extended visit to the Garden city would reveal. Every visitor to Walla Walla must see the \Miitman monument and old mission grounds. He must spend at least part of the day upon Dr. Blalock's great fruit ranch. It is equally incumbent upon him to go to the magnificent wheat ranch of W. P. Reser and

"see the elk." Nor could any one truthfully consider that he had seen Walla Walla unless he had ridden behind one of the spanking teams for which the town is noted up the wild and picturesque canyon of Mill creek to the points which are favorite resorts for camping parties during the hot Walla Walla summers. These and many more things must be deferred to a later visit.

In concluding this chapter, and with it this history, we will only add : - If a period of forty years since the termination of bloody Indian wars can effect all the changes which greet our eyes on all sides, what will be accomplished by the next forty years?