Dane County, Wisconsin - Chapter 13: Madison As an Unincorporated Village, 1880 (part 3 of 3)

Having received intelligence of the death of one of my children, I left Mineral Point for the home of my family, in Ontario County, Western New York, and arrived at Detroit, via Galena and Chicago, by stages, just in time, in November, for the last steamer to BuflFalo that fall, where we landed safely after a very boisterous and dangerous voyage on Lake Erie. Chicago, at this time was a mere sea of mud and water, and, from the only respectable hotel there, passengers for the East had to wade ankle deep through the street to reach the steamer, then plying to St. Joe in Michigan, from whence we staged it, over logways and through sloughs, slush and rain. to Marshall, where we reached the first railway, and went on our way rejoicing to Detroit. I entered my name on the hotel register at Chicago, adding my official position, not dreaming that from this simple circumstance I was to derive so great a notoriety as preceded my arrival home. But when I arrived at Canandaigua, where I had many excellent and good friends, I was not a little surprised when they congratulated me upon the fact of my not being an absconding public defaulter, as had been published by and in a newspaper of Chicago. Quite a number of the Eastern papers republished the libel, and for which they made haste to make ample amends by the payment of money and recantations. The United States Senate afterward unanimously confirmed my nomination. I returned, in the spring of 1844, to Mineral Point with my family of nine children.*

In ISSSf. - " Madison is the seat of government of Wisconsin. It was selected as such less than two years since, then an uninhabited wilderness, although the groves of forest and patches of smooth, rich prairie around it gave it the appearance of an old, settled country. Travelers invariably described it as surpassingly beautiful. It was once the happy home and the legislative ground of the sons of ' the free-born forest.' The red orator's eloquence was hardly hushed and his council fires had scarcely done smoking there when the palefaces marked it out for their own. The town of Madison is situated between the third and fourth of the ' Four Lakes,' about midway between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River, and about fifteen miles south from steamboat navigation upon the Wisconsin River. The construction of a canal over that fifteert miles has already been recommended by Gov. Dodge. Congress, last week, granted each alternate section of land to aid a company, already chartered, in constructing a canal from Milwaukee to Rock River, which the company, upon the same terms, are desirous of extending to Madison, and permission to that effect will undoubtedly be granted them. The recent division of the Territory will require the Legislature of Wisconsin to meet this fall, for the first time, upor^ the east side of the Mississippi River. For that purpose, by the contract for building the State- House above the basement, which was let in April last, ' the outside of the said edifice and thfr rooms on the first floor [are] to be completed by the 15th day of October next.' The whole isto be completed in every particular by the 20th day of September, 1839.

" The capital is to be built of cut stone, one hundred and four feet long, fifty-four feet wide^ _ and walls thirty feet high above the basement story, with a dome in the center roof twenty feet in diameter, covered with tin, except at the top, which is to be lighted with glass. There is tobe a piazza on each front of said edifice, twelve feet projection and thirty feet long, the roof of ivnich IS to break in with the roof and cornice of the main building. The cornice is to be executed in the Grecian Doric order, and the roof to be supported on four columns to each piazza, ot the same orde; as the cornice.

, 'fnthe selection of Madison, it was intended, from its central position, that it should becapital of the Slate of Wisconsin, and the State House has been designed with especial refer- greatly to the value of farming lands in that vicinity, and aflfbrding a good market for the settlers for many miles around. The industrious farmer emigrating to the Western world will do well to visit the country in and about the seat of government of Wisconsin.

" Much of the land there subject to private entry is yet unsettled, and the pre-emption bill which now only waits the signature of the President to become a law, secures to the settler or emigrant the quarter section upon which he resides, or which he may select, at |1.25 the acreand many a farm chosen there this very season at that price in less than five years viiW bring from $10 to $12 the acre. The soil is deep and rich, the timber good, the water clear and the climate healthy."

In 1840. - "Aside from the attractions which our embryo city presents in the peculiar beauty of its natural position, and in the healthful and genial character of its climate, subjects which have been so frequently descanted upon that we fear they are getting threadbare, Madison now has other recommendations of a different though not less important character, which it may be very proper briefly to allude to, and which cannot but have a great bearing upon the mind of an emigrant, who, in the selection of a Western home, looks to the education of his children, and is anxious to secure to his family, as well as to himself, the advantages of moral and religious instruction.

" There are at present two well-conducted schools in the place, under the management of competent teachers, one a male and the other a female, and every facility for the education of the youth of both sexes which could reasonably be expected in a village of this size, is here afforded.

''The inhabitants of our town have the advantage of frequent public religious worship, there being two ministers of the Gospel, one of the Protestant Episcopal and the other of the Reformed Dutch Church, located here, both of whom are zealous and industrious in their Christian labors. Under their auspices, a Sabbath schooF has been commenced, and a Bible class formed; and every privilege is enjoyed, in a religious point of view, which can be considered necessary."

"It gives me great pleasure to express my entire satisfaction with the 'Ladies' Select School ' of Madison, now under the care of Miss C. Pierce. As I attended the examination on Friday last, I had an opportunity to judge of the qualifications of the teacher and the attainments of her pupils, with both of which I was fully satisfied. The youngest children exhibited a degree of improvement which manifested much care on the part of the instructress ; and the classes in grammar, arithmetic, geography, history and natural philosophy, acquitted themselves with great credit to the school. As board can now be obtained in this place at more reasonable terms %ap formerly, I think it would be for the interest of parents in the vicinity to avail themselves of this opportunity in advancing the education of their children."

In 1842. - " Where this lovely village now stands, on the shores of these placid lakes, not many years since were clustered the wigwams of the savage tribe, and the beaver and otter plunged and sported undisturbed in the tranquil water. No sound at the evening hour disturbed the solemn silence of the scene, save as the plaintive cry of the wish-ton-wish and the long-drawn and wild cry of the loon rose from the bosom of the slumbering wave, like the low wail from the spirit-land - and the solitary hunter, leaning on his bow, wrapped in the contemplation of the far-ofl - happy hunting grounds of his sires, bent his dark eye from some gently rising hill on the glorious and ever-varying hues of our W^estern summer, and, as the light and feathery vapors shone in the golden rays from the retiring orb, and, stretching afar off in the blue expanse, varied their hues to the violet, deep purple and molten silver - fancied he heard the voices of his sires and the chieftains of other days inspiring him to deeds of heroism and fame.

" How sudden the transition from such scenes as Cooper speaks of in his narratives of the West, to that of our village of Madison, where the clank of the saw-mill, the sound of the blacksmith's anvil, the noise of the hammer and the saw, are heard throughout the day, while the lofty Capitol, house of entertainment, and neat and tasteful private residences, exhibit all the evidences of a place settled for many years ; wljile the merchant, with his well-filled store, offers to the inhabitant all the comforts and luxuries of the distant seaport.

" Soon we also shall have our crowded streets, thoroughfares and warehouses, for the spirit is among our inhabitants to do all this, and in a shorter time than our Eastern neighbors would judge it possible. Already preparations have been made for a handsome brick hotel to be erected near the public square, an" academy will shortly be built on or near the same grounds, also of brick or stone ; arrangements have beeri made by the Rev. Martin Kundig, of Milwaukee, a Catholic clergyman of distinction, and a former resident of Detroit, for the erection of a handsome church in the center of the village. The energy with which his congregation are now at work will soon furnish them with a commodious and elegant place of worship.

" From our office window we see the high dome of the capitol glancing like silver in the sun's rays, as its bright metal covering reflects the light, and the large park of many acres, encompassed by a neat painted paling, is tastefully adorned with clumps of the burr oak carefully trimmed, while the level and well-kept lawn is intersected with graveled walks leading to the different ornamental gates of the inclosure.

" The capitol is a splendid building of yellow stone. The hall is lofty and spacious, with wide corridors, and there is ample light from the dome, which is very similar to that of the New York Exchange. The chambers for the Legislature are large, with high ceilings, and handsomely finished, with every accommodation for the members. The offices of the Supreme Court are in this building ; Secretary's chamber ; and the Public Library, well selected, and containing many thousand volumes of law and miscellany. In this building, the Rev. J. M. Clark, a minister of the Congregational Church, preaches to a large and respectable audience.

" The capitol is not yet completed in all its details, and much ornamental work remains to be done ; but workmen are constatitly employed on it, and, before many months elapse, we can show our Eastern visitors something that any village or city may well be proud of."

Says another writer of that year:* "With the greatest pleasure we have lately noticed several glowing descriptions of rapid improvements going on in neighboring towns. We heartily rejoice in the prosperity of our neighbors, and should certainly envy not their good fortune, even were we totally disregarded by the inconsistent goddess in the distribution of her gifts. Happily, however, by dint of good fortune and the industry and enterprise of her citizens, Madison 18 going ahead. The improvements this season nearly, if not quite, equal all before. Facilities for the' convenience and comfort of the- inhabitants, as well as the accommodation of the public, are progressing daily. Several fine buildings have been completed, while others for dwellingnouses, shops, stores and various other purposes, are still going up, and will be finished in ' the course of the fall. The capitol square is being fenced and cleared of its rubbish, which adds much to the appearance of the town. Notwithstanding the hard times, improvements have been larger and business much better than the sanguine among us anticipated. Quite a number of emigrants have settled around and among us, and our streets are daily thronged with strangers in pursuit of business or pleasure. Though we cannot boast of as great an increase in population, wealth or improvements, as the lake-board towns, and many other portions of the Territory, yet we can assure them, one and all, that we are gradually, steadily and surely coming up in e world. As it is the transaction of public business here which fills our streets with the greatest bustle and activity, everything is of course comparatively dormant during the portion 0 the year when neighboring towns are flowing with life and business. But the tide will soon urn, and, while the lake towns are frozen up and idle, old Jack Frost will but increase our glee, ftf tli"''p'"^° niake ' our town ' resound with the tumult of business, not surpassed by other parts «tne lerntory, during the most favorable season of the year."

Enumerations Of The Inhabitants

In April, 1837, there were but three (Eben Peck, his wife Roseline, and their son Victor). In 1838, the number of inhabitants had increased to sixty-two. There were enumerated in 1840, in all, as previously mentioned, 146. In 1842, the number had increased to 172. In 1844, the total number of inhabitants was 216. At the beginning ot 1846, the total exceeded six hundred.

In "ye olden titne" the morals of Madison were not altogether what they should have been. A two-story frame building on the northeast corner of Main and Pinckney streets was built by Abner Nichols, of Mineral Point, and Jacob George, in 1838. Having partly completed the structure, the owners applied for a tavern license, in order to sell liquors according to law. For some cause, they were rd"used. Licenses for groceries were then some four times the amount of those for taverns ; and they desired, like all economical men, to save the difference. On being denied the license, they declared that If they could not keep a tavern, they would keep something ^^worser." And so without a license, "Uncle George" opened a "worser," where men at the first session of the Legislature could buy strong drink, and, in a dark cellar, they could fight a certain wild animal, whose den was there. When the United States Hotel was built, the "Worser" was moved down Main street, ten feet from it. There it was burned to the ground, greatly endangering the new building.

Another of the buildings put up in 1838, was a two-story frame building on Pinckney street, adjacent to the American Hotel, as enlarged. It was built by John Messersmith, Jr. It was opened as a gambling house, and known as " The Tiger," and was kept open to the public without fear of the law. For a few years it was a success, but it was afterward used as a dwelling, and an addition placed before it and in its rear. The property was purchased by C. B. Chapman, who sold it to J. D. Noble. The latter disposed of it to Fritz Maeder, who erected a three-story brick building in its place. Thus the "Tiger" and "Worser" became things of the past.

Concerning the " Worser," a pioneer says : " This tWostory frame building was placed at the northwest corner of Main and Pinckney streets, and was built by Abner Nichols, of Mineral Point, and Jacob George, in 1838. Having partly completed the building, the owners applied for a tavern license in order to sell liquors according to law, as all good liquor-sellers desire to do. For some forgotten cause, perhaps the want of ' two spare' beds,' they were refused. Licenses for groceries were then some four times the amount of those for taverns ; and they desired, like all economical men, to save the difference. On being denied the license, tuey declared that if they" could not keep a tavern, they would keep something ^worser.' And so, without a license, ' Uncle George ' opened a ' Worser ' indeed, where men at the first session of the Legislature could buy strong drink, and in a dark cellar they could fight a certain wild animal whose den was there. When the United States Hotel was to be built, the ' Worser ' was moved down Main street, ten feet from the new brick wall. There it was burned to the ground, greatly endangering the new building, which was often on fire in the roof, doors and windows.

" The Madisonians of 1839, having determined to celebrate the Fourth of July, and to vary for the nonce the usual diet of bacon and fish, ' Uncle Ab,' of the ' Worser,' had agreed to deliver them a fat steer for the occasion. The evening of the 3d came, and Nichols also, bois- ^rously happy. Individually, he had commenced anticipating the good feeling which the keg he carried in his wagon, intended primarily for the ' Worser,' but ultimately designed, after its cost in favor of that institution, for the Madisonians, whose whistles had long been dry. Men drank ' Pecatonica' and ' Rock River ' in those days, and thought there could be no feast without it. True to his trust, Nichols had brought the steer and tied him in a thicket to a burr-oak tree, near the intersection of Dayton and State streets, where none of the hanfffV men could see it. Then, taking one more drink from his 'pocket-pistol,' he advanced to the crowd of loungers and longers ; for the whisky of the ' Worser ' had long since failed, and all were remarkably dry. The keg was unloaded and tapped in less time than I can tell it, and all hands summoned to drink. So the Fourth of July began, as it not unfrequently hapoens on the 3d. The tethered steer was forgotten in the joy that whisky, as meat, drink and lodei'ne pervaded the crowd, and none enjoyed it more than ' Uncle Ab ' himself. The Madisonians next day, celebrated the Fourth in due course. They marched from the ' Worser ' in due form to martial music made by two squeaking fiddles - fiddlers and men at the head, and women at the tail of the line. George P. Delaplaine read the Declaration, and William T. Sterling delivered a short but broad-winged eagle oration. After which the procession re-formed inclose order, and, with 'double-quick,' marched back to the ' Worser,' and to the public dinner of bacon and fish, the diet of other days, except they had whisky to drink. They ate, they drank, and then they danced to the cheery notes of the fiddles, and were right merry.

" Three days after, when the keg was empty, and no more whisky to be had, ' Uncle Ab ' sobered off, and bethought him of the steer tied to the burr-oak, and that instead of having been served up on the national feast he was still under the tree. There it was that the butcher's knife released him at once from his three days' fast and from life; and he served to vary the daily diet of bacon and bread on common days of the year."

" Those were joyous times when we went a-riding along the by-ways and over the unbroken grounds that led us wherever we chose to go, before the streets of Madison were walled with brick, in old Ubeldine's one-horse cart - the first pleasure carriage brought to the capital city. It was long ago, but - not long enough to beget forgetfulness in the memory of those who, with merry laugh and in youthful glee, used to go jolting along in the one-horse 'gig,' as we called the old Frenchman's cart. Wonder if our then young boy and girl companions have forgotten the time when we used to go a-berrying, and when it was only necessary to ' say the word ' to insure a cartload of as merry romps as ever perplexed the hearts of boys for a berrying expedition, or a frolic among the groves that bordered our beautiful lakes. That was a, funny old cart, and would not answer for nowadays ; but we were not so refined and particular then. There were no eyes to please but our own, and 'who cared? ' Ubeldine, the envied proprietor of the 'gig,' was a Frenchman, and this vehicle came with him from the Canadas. It was of the olden style, such as' may be seen in the French towns - a two-wheeled, cart-shaped affair - navmg a light box, was without. springs, and open behind for the entree and exit of p'assengers. it was drawn by a coarse-limbed Normandy horse, rigged in heavy block harness - the whole establishment being in proportion and appearance, not beautiful but substantial, symmetrical *t>d pleasing only in its unity. When in order for a ride, it was the pride of its owner, who would bring the 'gig' around, back it up to the door, and announce its readiness for the young ladies, who taking seats on robes placed in the bottom of the vehicle, the driver sitting on the ff^^l'^" *o see the old cart rattle and thump over the stones, or across the pole bridge that attorded the only crossing to the Catfish, or over logs and through brush, as the party jogged on, more in pursuit of fun than berries.

grand-dames, putting away their happy, mirthful, tell-tale faces, that they may assume reserve and dignity, not felt, but more becoming their changed fortune and social conditions ? We cannot look upon our companions of 'early times' without regretting, that with years should come so marked a change from the days when the wild prairies and forests were not more free than the light-hearted people who enjoyed in common lot the comforts and pleasures, the cares and privations, incident to a new country ; for, though the elegant carriage may roll noiselessly along busy streets, and people may pride themselves upon the show and parade of a splendid 'turnout,' we doubt whether there is the same real enjoyment that was found by the young folks who so long ago weijt a-riding in old Ubeldine's one-horse gig."

Note. - Subsequent to the laying-out of Madison and the securing of the capital of the Territory of Wisconsin at that point, Doty (whose previous career has been noted in this chapter) succeeded George W. Jones as Delegate in Congress. This was in 1838. He served till 1841, when he was appointed Governor of Wisconsin by President Tyler, serving nearly three years, and was succeeded by Gov. Tallmadge. While Governor and Superintendent of Indian affairs, the Indians in Minnesota - Dakotas or Sioux and Chippewas - began to be uneasy and troublesome. The War Department instituted a commission for conference with them. Gov. Doty, on account of his known acquaintance with Indian character, was selected as Commissioner. He soon assembled the sachems and had a council. They listened with profound attention ; difficulties were allayed, and he made two highly important treaties with the Northwestern Indian tribes. The Senate, however, not accepting thena, no opportunity was had of testing their value or otherwise to the country.

He was a member of the First Constitutional Convention, in 1846. He was elected to Congress from the Third District, under the State organization of 1848, and re-elected in 1851, and procured by his industry and influence important legislation for the State and his constituency ; serving both terms with great honor to himself and to the entire satisfaction of the people of the district.

In 1853, he retired once more to " private life," 'to be recalled by President Lincoln, in 1861 ; first as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and subsequently as Governor of Utah, holding this place at the time of his death, June 13, 1865. For the manner in which he discharged those important trusts, reference is here had to the testimony of Charles Durkee, his sucressor, and who is also from Wisconsin, and was for many years intimately acquainted with him, both as a public man and a private friend. In his first message to the Legislative Assembly of Utah, Gov. Durkee thus alludes to his predecessor :

"Since your last session, one who was accustomed to- advise with you in mattei's of legislation, has, by a mysterious Providence, been removed from his chosen field of labor.

" On the 13th of June last. Gov. James Duaue Doty departed this life. Inasmuch as he was the Executive ot this Territory at the time of his death, it is proper and becoming that I should upon this occasion express my sympathy with his family and the people in view of this solemn event.

" From a long and intimate acquaintance with the deceased, it gives me pleasure to bear testimony to his superior ability as a statesman, and to his many virtues as a citizen. .

" Gov. Doty has for a long period enjoyed the esteem and confidence of his fellow.-citizens. They had giten him prominent positions both in the State and National Councils, where his services proved creditable to himself, advantageous to his constituents and useful to his country. He was greatly attached to frontier life. He wns a pioneer in the settlement of Michigan and Wisconsin, and his predilection was exemplified in a request that his remains should repose in Utah, his recently adopted home."

Gov. Doty was what we term in the West a self-made man. Without the advantages of a collegiate education, yet by a constant study of men and things, he well supplied its place. His vigorous mind was eminently practical, and his reading very extensive, especially in all that related to the Government of our country and the history of the Northwest. Personally, he had the advantage of a fine, commanding figure ; open, intelligent and pleasing countenance, a most winning address ; you were his friend at first sight.

Not a politician, in the common acceptance of the term, he yet had many and some very sharp political contests. In these he was always true to his friends, and placable and courteous to his enemies. As a public man, he was equally approachable and dignified ; neither sycophantic to power, nor repulsive to the humble and dependent. He had in a most eminent degree the good will of the masses.

Gov. Doty's last residence in the State was at Menasha, on Doty's Islan^* one of the many villages that have sprung up under his influence. He had two sons and one daughter. The eldest son, Maj . Charles Doty, late a Commissary in the United States Army, mustered out in April last, now resides at Menasha. The second son, JaniM, accompanied Gov. Stevens on his exploring expedition for a route for a railroad from the Mississippi to the racino Ocean, and died in Washington Territory some years since. , ,

Mrs. Sarah C. Doty, the Governor's wife, accompanied him to Utah, in 1864; was with him at hia deatn ; nas since returned to Wisconsin, and now resides in Oshkosh, with her widowed daughter, Mrs. Fitzgerald.

The surviving members of Gov. Doty's family will mourn his death. Yet such men never really die, but. in their deeds - -their memories cherished and enshrined by posterity to the latest ages.