Door County, Wisconsin - Chapter 9: Early Visitors to Door County, 1917

Chapter 9: Early Visitors to Door County

From time to time, long before the first pioneers raised their cabins in Door County, this peninsula was visited by many distinguished travelers who sailed up past its shores and were impressed by its distinctive beauty. Many of them have preserved their impressions of this peninsula in their writings which cast a romantic light on this section when it was an unbroken forest from shore to shore. Believing that any mention of Door County, made one hundred or two hundred years ago, is of interest to those who have now made it their home, a few of these early accounts are given below:

Pierre Francois Xavier de Charlevoix, a noted Jesuit writer, was sent to America in 1720, commissioned by the French Government to seek a route to the Western Sea. He wrote several historical works about America. The following are some of his remarks about the Door County:

"There is on the west side of this lake (Lake Michigan) a large bay, which extends twenty-eight leagues to the south, and is called Bay des Puants, or simply la Baye. Its entrance is very wide and strewn with islands, some of which are as much as fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. They were formerly occupied by the Ponteonatomies (Potawatomies) whose name they bear, except some of them which lie on the right hand, in which there are still some savages called the Noquets. The Ponteonatomies occupy at the present time one of the smallest of their islands; and'they have besides two other villages, one on the River St. Joseph and the other at Detroit." * * * * * * * * * *

"We embarked in the afternoon of the second of July (1721, from Machinac) ; for thirty leagues we coasted along a strip of land whi.:h separates Lake Michigan from Lake Superior. There are several places where it is only a few leagues wide, and it is hardly possible to find a more wretched looking country; but it ends at a pretty river named la Manistie (Manistique), which abounds in fish, especially in Sturgeon. A little farther, bending our course to the southwest,

"The Bay of Noquets is separated from the Great Bay (Green Bay) only by the islands of the Ponteonatomies - which, as I have already remarked, are the old-time abode of those savages. Most of these islands are heavily wooded; but the only one which is still inhabited is neither the largest nor the finest; there remains on it only a comparatively small village, where we were compelled, although unwillingly, to pass the night; but we could never refuse this as the people were so urgent. There is not, moreover, a tribe in Canada who have been more sincerely attached to the French than they always have been.

"On the 6th we were held back nearly all day by contrary winds; but at evening it again grew calm, and we embarked a little after sunset, by most beautiful moonlight; we then proceeded on our journey during twenty-four consecutive hours, making only a short halt to say mass and to eat dinner. The sun was so hot, and the water of the bay so warm, that the pitch of our canoe melted in several places. To crown our misfortunes, the place where we halted for our encampment proved to be so infested with mosquitoes and gnats that it was impossible for us to close our eyes, although we had not slept for two days; and as the weather was fine, and the moon gave us light, we resumed our journey as early as three o'clock in the morning."

"After having voyaged five or six leagues, we found ourselves abreast of a small island, which is not far from the west shore of the bay, and which concealed from us the entrance to a river (Menominee River) on which is the village of Malhomines (Menominees), "which is not very populous. That is a pity, for they are fine looking men, and among the most shapely in Canada. They are even taller than the Potawatomies. I have been assured that they have the same origin, and almost the same language, as the Noquets and the Saulteurs (Chippewas); but it is also added that they have, besides, a private language, which they communicate to no one.

"At a little distance beyond the island (Green Island) which I have just mentioned, the aspect of the country is all at once changed; and from being almost a wilderness, as it is up to that point, it becomes the most charming region in the world. It is even more agreeable to the sight than is the Detroit Country; but although it is every-

1 'Five or six leagues'? is about eighteen miles. Their eamp was probably on Eagle Island which on account of its sheltered harbor was a favorite camping place for canoe voyagers.

where covered with the finest trees, it is much more sandy and less fertile. The Otchagras (Winnebagos), who are commonly called Puans, formerly lived on the shores of the bay, in a most delightful location; but they were there attacked by the Illinois, who slew great numbers of them." *

Samuel A. Storrow, judge advocate of the U. S. Army in 1817, made a tour by boat through the interior of Wisconsin. The following relates some of his observations in Door County:

"While upon this island (Washington Island) we were met by a small party of Indians, one of whom our interpreter recognized to be Cecoton, or The Spring Deer, an Ottawa warrior of fierce and turbulent character. He pointed to an island which he said was the haunt of his tribe and family, whither we proceeded. It was the most beautiful of the group, and known to the voyageurs by the name of the Isle de Petit Detroit (Detroit Island), from its facing a small strait formed by itself and another island which nearly encircles it. 'The grounds when we first landed bore marks of recent cultivation, but were uninhabited.

"Following a winding path, we reached a country, decorated after the rude manner of the nations with flags and paint; each grave being sheltered by a mound of bark, containing an aperture for the deceased to breathe through, and in front the remnants of food and embers. The pathways led us through many beautiful but deserted fields, where the industry of the Indians had mellowed the wilderness of their island, and formed a scene apparently too tranquil for a turbulent spirit like that of Cecoton. Finding no one abroad? we discharged our muskets to attract some of the islanders; the sound was answered by the barking of a dog, and soon afterward we encountered a man, armed, and apparently acting as sentinel. He told the interpreter that the people were on the skirt of the forest, at a distance, where they cultivated the fields. We followed him, and were led into a large and wretchedly tilled cornfield, in the midst of which were a number of cabins. Among the many interesting objects which this strange community presented, was an old chief of not less than ninety years of age, who had been a warrior from his youth. He was naked, like those about him, and by no means deficient in strength and agility.

"Leaving this beautiful island we reached, on the 16th, the southerly cape of Green Bay, Port des Morts, so called from the destruction at this place of a number of the Potawatomies. The escape itself is high and perpendicular. We encamped under the precipice on a small margin, the water washing the foot of our tent. On the morning of the 17th, we commenced our course westwardly along the shore, stopping at several islands, one of which contained a small miniature harbor (Eagle Island) and the marks of Indian cultivation. The cabins were deserted, but on exploring the island we found the dead body of a man extended on a scaffold, after the manner of the Chippewas. Implements of the chase were at his side, and at the foot of the scaffold, the remnants of a deer.

"Throughout the 17th and 18th we continued our course and reached, on the night of the latter day, Cape Winnebago, having passed the Baie des Eturgeons, the Vermillion Islands and River Rouge (Red River). From the bottom of the Baie des Eturgeons there is a portage of but two miles to Lake Michigan." *

French dominion of Canada and the, West came to an end in 1760, when the post at Mackinae was given up to the British. Lieutenant Garrell of the British Army was sent to the mouth of Fox River (present City of Green Bay) the next year with a body of troops to take charge of the old fort that stood there. He remained there only three years, when the fort was abandoned and the British made no further attempt to occupy the country. For the next half century Wisconsin relapsed into its ancient Indian control, with no missionaries at any point to hold aloft the torch of civilization and with only an occasional fur trader who adapted his ways to Indian wishes. England, however, claimed nominal dominion of the region, which did not terminate with the Revolutionary war, but continued through the War of 1812. It was finally surrendered in July, 1815.

One year later, in July, 1816, a considerable body of American troops was sent from Mackinac to take po: on of the ancient post at Green Bay. These troops consisted of 500 riflemen under command of Colonel Miller. Other officers among them were Colonel Chambers, and Colonel Bowyer. This expedition left Mackinac in four schooners, known as the Washington, the Mink, the Amelia and the Wayne. These were the first large sailing vessels on Lake Michigan since the days of La Salle's Griffin. The Washington was the largest (100 tons) and was the flagship of the squadron.

In crossing Lake Michigan the flotilla became separated and the Washington put in at Washington Harbor to wait for them. Here they lay for four days while officers, troops and passengers rambled all over the island admiring its beauties and picking up Indian relies.

Believing that their vessel was the first to have touched at the island, it was named Washington Island. The grand cliff on the northwest point of the island was named Bowyers Bluff in honor of Colonel Bowyer, the first American Indian agent at Green Bay. Meanwhile one of the other vessels had touched at Chambers Island which was so named by the troops in honor of Colonel Chambers.

'The following is a very pretty account of a journey along the shore of Green Bay in 1821, written by Mrs. Henry Baird and printed in "Wisconsin Historical Collections" Vol XIV, pages 55-62; "Early Days on Mackinac Island," pages 55-62:

"Our route lay along the eastern coast of Green Bay and the northern shore of Lake Michigan. My husband was going to the island to attend court, and I to visit my relatives. Judge Doty had gone there by schooner, some time before. We took passage on one of a fleet of six boats laden with furs, belonging to the American Fur Company, and in charge of my brother-in-law, Joseph Rolette, of Prairie du Chien. Having attended a wedding ceremony in the afternoon, it was so late when we reached the boats, in waiting by the river side, that at first it seemed hardly worth while to start that day. Yet the men were all in their places, which was always the experience in the days when there was no whistle or bell to call them to duty, and it was prudent to start when they were secured; otherwise, the grog shops might entice them away.

"In each of the boats there were seven men, six to row and a steersman, all being Frenchmen. 'There was, in addition, in each boat, aclerk of the American Fur Company, to act as commander, or bourgeois. The furnishing of these boats, each thirty feet long, was quite complete. The cargo being furs, a snug fitting tarpaulin was fastened down and over the sides, to protect the pelts from the rain. This cargo was placed in the center of the boat. A most important feature of the cargo was the mess basket, one of the great comforts of the past days, and a perfect affair of its kind. It was well filled with everything that could be procured to satisfy both hunger and thirst, such as boiled ham, tongue, roast chickens, bread, butter, hard or sea biscuits, crackers, cheese (when that luxury could be procured), tea, coffee, and chocolate, pickles, etc., and an abundance of eggs. Then there were wines, cordials, and brandy. All this the mess baskets held; yet in addition, we depended upon securing fresh game and fish on the way. Rolette was a generous provider, sending to St. Louis for all that this part of the world could not supply. The mess basket on this occasion seemed to have an extra supply of eggs. It seemed strange that such faithful workers as the men were should have been fed so poorly. They had nothing but salt pork, lyed corn, and bread or biscuit. This was the general food of workmen in the fur trade. It was the custom, when a man wished to enter the employ of any one, to put the manner of living in the indenture.' Our boat carried two tents, and had a cot bed and camp stool for my use.

"The party in our boat consisted of Rolette (the head man), John Kinzie, my husband and myself. One of the other boats was in charge of Edward Ploudre, another in charge of Jean Baptist Mairand; Monsieur Eustubise was in charge of the fourth boat. I have forgotten the names of the bourgeois of the two remaining craft.

"Starting so late in the day, we were only enabled to get as far as the Red Banks, before it was time to stop and camp for the night. As I stepped from the boat, I saw that my tent was almost ready for me, so quickly did these men arrange matters for the encampment.

"Next morning dawned most gloriously, and we started off in our boats, after breakfast, in fine spirits, cheered and enlivened by the merry songs of the boatmen, who always start with a song. The day was charming, there was no wind, and the men rowed as if it were a pleasure. This was indeed a delightful way to travel; keeping always within easy reach of shore, in case of a sudden squall or violent wind.

"The camping hour is always hailed with gladness by the men, strange as it may seem, as it came at the close of a hard day's work. It seemed always to be another pleasure of the voyage, and was an agreeable change to passengers as well as men. The men would pitch the tent with rapidity, in front of it quickly kindle a fire, and then immediately prepare the meal, which was greatly enjoyed. Then, all being refreshed, came the time for sports, merriment, and fun of all kinds.

"As we rowed away from the Red Banks on that most charming June morning, many were the amusements that followed each other. The boats would sometimes come near enough to allow an interchange of conversation, jest, and play. This began that morning, by the throwing of hard tack at each other. This, however, did not last long, the prospect of needing the biscuits later serving to save them. Our boat had at first shared in the contest, but on my account they soon desisted. Shortly after the war of the biscuits ceased, we began to

4 See the numerous examples of such contracts, among the MSS. of this society; some of them are cited in Turner's valuable monograph, ''The Character and Influence of the Fur Trade in Wisconsin,'? Proc. Wis. Hist. Soe., 1889 - Ed.

see eggs flying in the air, and a very pretty sight they made too. The men entered fully into the fun, although the oarsmen did not dare slack their oars. They gave vent, however, to their enjoyment by a cri de joie, fairly quivering with enjoyment. It was about as animated a contest as any these men had ever witnessed or expected to. Not to spoil the fun, I crawled under the tarpaulin, where I was comparatively safe, although an occasional egg would strike me on the head. Rolette - an irritable old man - tried his best to stop the battle, but the ftin was too fierce to be readily given up, and on a pretense of not hearing their commander's order they kept on with the fight.

"At the second 'pipe,' or rest, we left the boat for a ramble, asa beautiful beach made walking a delight. Although not dinner time, Rollette ordered an early meal, so that we might take another walk. He directed the men, after their meal, to start on with the boat, telling them where to encamp. Pointing to a bit of land projected into the bay. which did not seem very far away, he said, 'You may encamp just past that point. We will walk; be sure and have supper ready.' Barrette, Rolette's serving man, remained with us. Rolette never went unattended, as he was a very helpless person.

"We sat awhile when we had dined, then started off on our walk. The fleet of boats presented a handsome appearance, disappearing and reappearing with the inequalities of the shore. We had not walked far when we came to a bluff which extended into the bay, and which was perfectly perpendicular. There was no path around it, none over it, and the water at its base was deep. What was I to do? Good Barrette immediately said he could carry me; and he did so. How I pitied him. The distance around the bluff was several yards. When he had doubled the promontory and got upon dry land, we stopped to rest. Starting off again we soon came to a small stream, narrow but deep. It had not been observed by the men in the boats, owing to the rushes. Now, what was to be done? The crew were out of sight, hidden by the point of land at first mentioned, and consequently were out of hearing. But the same faithful servant again undertook the task of carrying me, although the water was now quite deep - too deep for my husband to be of any assistance to me, as he was a short man. Mr. Kinzie being taller, walked beside us and held my feet out of the water. The gentlemen were up to the armpits in the stream, which fortunately was narrow.

T4 History Of Door County

"But in the mean time a storm was brewing, another egg storm! As we arrived at the camp, we all noticed the strange appearance which Edward Ploudre presented. He had on white duck pantaloons and a frock coat, and had both pockets filled with eggs, which he had provided for a second battle and fancied his coat would conceal. But the keen eyes of both Mr. Kinzie and Mr. Baird were too much for him, as was their fleetness, for they immediately set in pursuit of him, and when they caught him slapped his pockets until the eggs were broken and the contents ran in a stream down his pantaloons and white stockings, and into his low shoes. The men laughed until exhausted. Then there was another call for more eggs, and another fight ensued, which only ceased for want of ammunition. Never did any one ever enter with greater zest into any sport than did the gentlemen on this occasion. However, at last quiet was restored and we found ourselves with good appetites for supper, and soon after retired to refreshing sleep. The next morning the field of battle presented a strange appearance, strewn as it was with egg shells, and many were the regrets expressed that the ammunition was exhausted.

"Before leaving the shore, speeches befitting the occasion were made by most of the gentlemen, and the place was formally christened "Egg Harbor,' the name it has ever since borne.

"Occasionally, as we coasted along the east shore of Green Bay, 'we would, when it presented an inviting appearance, take other walks along the bank. The men always took pains to secure a handsome spot for the 'pipe,' or rest. The tent was scarcely ever pitched for dinner except in wet weather.

"As I do not remember distances from point to point, I will not attempt to give each day's travel. The names of some of the islands have been changed since our trip in 1825; and many more than in that day had no names, have since been christened. Then we knew by names, only Washington Island, the Beavers - Big and Little, Chambers, Manitou, Fox, Potawatomie or Rock Islánd, formerly known as l'Ile de Pou, or Louse Island. Many were the beautiful spots we passed. Never were we obliged to dine or encamp on the east shore at any spot not attractive.

"One night we encamped at a place called Petit Detroit, which is not far from Death's Door. It is a small island, formed like a half moon, the inner portion being a most beautiful harbor, with a high bank; and beyond this rise higher hills. The whole island was then a perfect garden of wild roses. Never have I at one time seen so many flowers of any kind, as I then saw. 'The charms of the place so attracted us that we made an early landing. The men had to clear a spot to pitch the tent, and in finishing their work they very thoughtfully decorated my tent with roses.

"Here again, and indeed it was so each evening, the young men began to frolic. There weré no more eggs for that kind of warfare, yet there seemed to be many articles to do battle with. As soon as supper was over, all the gentlemen of the party, except Rolette, went off for a walk over the hills. They were in the finest of spirits and so were the crew - the whole island seemed to respond to their glee. The boatmen, keeping to themselves, went off to the other side of the island. Soon we heard their laughter, and well we knew there was fun somewhere. In a little while we saw the gentlemen run towards the encampment and, laughing, go to each other's tents and, catching up anything they could lay their hands on, into the lake they tossed it. Each possessed a small feather bed, that with the bedding was rolled up in an Indian mat. Soon we saw these beds sailing off, and these were followed by coats, hats, ete. Mr. Kinzie was sc engaged in the 'pitched battle' that he did not see his own bed start. The others secured theirs while yet in reach. The beds usually fell in the water lengthwise, but Mr. Kinzie's went in on one end, which made it sail well. When at last he discovered his bed, outward bound, it was several yards from shore. He plunged into the water and had to swim, as the water was quite deep, before he reached it.

"The boats are never unloaded, from the time they leave port until they reach their destination. This fleet of boats was originally loaded at Prairie du Chien, and then unloaded at the portage between the Wisconsin and Fox Rivers, where the men carried first the packs of furs on their backs, then returned for the boats, and reloading them would run down to the Big Chute, now Appleton. Here the boats again had to be unloaded, and the furs portaged around by the men. The boats, however, made the journey down the swift water, which was called 'jumping the rapids,' and was an interesting sight if one had nerve enough to look on. The unloading was repeated at Grand Kaukauna; but at Rapides Croche and at Rapides des Peres, now De Pere, the loads would be carried through, all of the men walking in the water to guide the boats and their valuable loads. Our boats, it will be seen, were loaded for the last timé at Kaukauna, not to be unloaded until they reached Mackinac.

island and harbor. After the gentlemen had played to their hearts' content, they retired to their moist beds. One would have thought they might all have taken cold, but not one word of complaint did I hear from any of them.

"We now traveled slowly, waiting for a day which would' show signs of being fine throughout, that we might make in safety 'La Grande Traverse' - to cross the lake from the east shore to the west, or north. The crossing started from Rock Island. There were some scattered islands on the route, where shelter was sought in case of storm or high wind. On the day we attempted the crossing, there was a slight east wind, strong enough to warrant the sails being hoisted. The wind at last dying away they were taken down, and it was with difficulty we reached our destined port. These boats carry but one sail, a square one. The mast is attached to the side of the boat - and when wanted is hoisted to its place and the sail put up. When in the middle of the lake, a strange sight it was to see the boats > arranged in a regular line, near each other, while the men took a rest. (The men never smoked except when ashore). The boats floated gently on, carried by the current, and always guided by the steersman. The motion was a delightful one. We made a succesful crossing, and the men were rewarded by a supper from our mess baskets, and a little extra grog. I have forgotten to mention that the crew each morning and evening received a gill of whiskey.

"On our arrival at the other shore, we were no longer able to secure as fine camping grounds as those of the preceding days. As the gentlemen no longer could find a good play ground, they devoted themselves to their books."

In the chapter on the Rise and Fall of Rowleys Bay is recorded an interesting experience of the early surveyors who surveyed Door County in 1834.