Fond du Lac County, Wisconsin - Chapter 2: Story of the Rocks and Fields, 1912

Chapter 2: Story of the Rocks and Fields

The lowest accessible rocks in Wisconsin consist of an immense series of granites gneisses, syenites and hornblendic, micaceous, chloritic chists and allied, crystalline rocks. These rocks bear within themselves decisive evidence that they were once sediments derived from the wear of earlier rocks. Nowhere are these earlier rocks exposed to the surface. These lowest accessible rocks are called "fundamental gneiss" and upon them are piled layer upon layer of rock formations of the state. First were deposited the St. Peter's sandstone, all to¬ gether called the Potsdam period of the lower silurian age (age of mollusks). Then in succession came the Trenton limestone, Galeria limestone and Hudson river shales of the Trenton period of the lower silurian age of the Paleozoic era. Then came the following strata :

All of the above strata were formed under the internal sea before any land in the present Wisconsin was above water except the famous "Isle Wisconsin," the only section of the state that was never under water. During the upper silu¬ rian age mollusks in enormous numbers flourished ; their casts are found in the rocks of the county. Among them are crinoids, corals, protozans, bryozoans, brachipods, cephalopods, crustaceans and others. At the close of the upper silurian age what is now Fond du Lac county rose above the sea and was never afterward submerged ; but another agency deposited a vast amount of soil upon the upper silurian rocks of this county, namely, the quarternary age, or glacial period of epochs, thus :

The glacial period was remarkable in many particulars. That immense fields of ice should be pushed down from the north shearing off the soil and rocks of the older periods and carrying large portions southward to be dropped upon the surface of this county and elsewhere as the sun gradually melted the ice, seems an extraordinary event, but is well authenticated by indubitable testi¬ mony. The evidence is also clear that the tertiary age was warm to such an ex¬ tent that animals and plants flourished almost to the north pole and certainly in Alaska and other sections even farther north. But this age was succeeded by the quarternary age, which presented marked contrasts. It was intensely cold in northern latitudes and even in this section the heat of summer not being sufficient to melt the vast accumulations of snow and ice which thus formed immense glaciers which were forced slowly southward carrying the surface rocks with them and depositing them where the ice melted. What is now Fond du Lac county was thus covered with an immense glacier which flowed south¬ ward, digging out Lake Michigan and topping over until united with the glacier which likewise scooped out Green Bay and Fox river valley. These glaciers or others extended as far south as southern Illinois and southern Indiana. Of the material carried along there were thrown off at the sides great ridges now called terminal moraines which form many of the hills and elevations of this county. The material thus deposited is called "drift," and no doubt considerable de¬ posited here was brought from Canada, the Lake Superior basin and the north¬ ern part of Wisconsin and Upper Michigan. No doubt all of the present Fond du Lac county was swept by the ice of the first glacial epoch and subsequent glacial fields removed many evidences of the first glacial visitation. The sec¬ ond glacial epoch is represented by a wide band of drift and moraines stretch¬ ing across the county northeast and southwest, a little east of north and west of south. This band was the area where the Lake Michigan and the Green Bay glaciers joined and where in the meeting and the grinding of the two together there were deposited the drift and moraines of the second glacial band above described. Thus the direction of glaciation is as follows : In nearly the eastern half of the county the markings show movement from the Lake Michigan glacier they show that the Green Bay glacier crowded in a southeast direction until ar¬ rested by the edge of the Lake Michigan glacier ; and there the hills of drift ' and the moraines were deposited in the band already described. The western margin of the Lake Michigan glacier is now marked by what is called the Ket¬ tle Range which in this county is about co-extensive with the second glacial area. This range is thus described by the state geologist:

"The most striking result of the second glacial advance was the production along the margin of the ice sheet of a great moraine, the most gigantic and most remarkable yet known to characterize glacial action. It consists of a great ridged belt of drift disposed in grand loops along what was the glacier's mar- gin. Its re-entrant angles penetrated deeply between the adjoining lobes mark¬ ing their line of contact. That portion of the moraine which lay between and was formed by the joint action of the Green Bay and Lake Michigan glaciers constitutes a succession of irregular hills and ridges, locally known as the Ket¬ tle Range from the peculiar depressions by which it is characterized. This ridged belt of drift is a true terminal moraine formed of the heterogeneous ma¬ terial accumulated as the margin of the ice and plowed up before it at the time of its greatest advance * * * The intermediate portions of the Kettle Mo¬ raine lie along the face of two approaching ice sheets which may have met and antagonized each other to some extent, but did not coalesce; and further¬ more they lie transverse to the glacial motion and are strictly marginal and are in real nature terminal moraines, differing from other portions simply in being formed by two glaciers pushing from opposite directions. * * * The char¬ acteristics of the Kettle Moraine are striking. It is not merely a simple ridge plowed up by the smooth edge of the ice, but consists of an irregular assem¬ blage of drift hills and ridges, forming a belt usually several miles in width. * * * The superficial aspect of the formation is that of an irregular intri¬ cate series of drift ridges and hills of rapidly, but often very gracefully undu¬ lating contour, consisting of rounded domes, conical peaks, winding and occa¬ sionally genticulated ridges, short, sharp spurs, mounds, knolls and hummocks promiscuously arranged, accompanied by corresponding depressions that are even more striking in character. These depressions give rise to the various local names of potash kettles, pot holes, pots and kettles, sinks, etc. Those that have most arrested popular attention are circular in outline and symmetrical in form, not unlike the homely utensils that have given them names. However, some are irregular and shaped like a funnel, inverted bell, saucer, trough or even winding hollows. They vary in depth from a mere indentation to bowls sixty or more feet in depth. The kettles proper seldom exceed 500 feet in diam¬ eter. As a natural consequence of their forms many of the depressions are small lakes without inlet or outlet. Where there are depressions there also are hills and here they are the counterpart of the depressions, being inverted kettles, or sharp ridges, along trough-like hollows. As to material, clay, sand, gravel and boulders enter largely into the constitution of the Kettle Range, gravel being the most conspicuous element exposed to observation. The great core of the range consists of a confused commingling of clay, sand, gravel and boulders of the most pronounced type. Thus the range is essentially unstratified. * * *

It is undeniable that the agency which produced the range gathered its material all along its course for at least three hundred miles to the northward and its largest accumulations were in the immediate vicinity of the deposit. Thus the material of the range changes along its whole course and is quite often more or less stratified.,,

The glacial period was succeeded by an epoch when the southward flow of the water was checked and much of this northern country was submerged be¬ neath the lakes and it was at this time that the red clays, beach deposits and other soils were left upon a considerable portion of the surface. The forest trees so often found buried no doubt grew between the glacial periods when warm weather prevailed, the change from heat to cold occurring every 10,500 years, due to the precession of the equinoxes.

"The retreat of the glaciers left spread over the surface subjected to their action a sheet of confused and commingled earthy and rocky material scraped from the surface of the areas lying northward and partaking of the diverse natures of the parent sources. This contained ingredients from a large variety of rocks of various mineral composition and therefore furnishing a sub-stratum remarkably well fitted to yield a soil rich in all requisite mineral constituents. Since then the sun, rain, air and frost have developed therefrom a deep, rich and enduring soil, to which vegetation has added humic products." (Geology of Wisconsin, Vol. i.)

At the close of the second glacial epoch elephants, mastadons, mammoths and other giant animals roamed over Wisconsin; among them were buffaloes, deer, wolves, raccoon or species closely related to these animals.

Rivers And Springs

The wealth and beauty of Fond du Lac and its surroundings are rarely under¬ stood and appreciated by its citizens. There is no place in the state of Wiscon¬ sin that is surrounded by a more fruitful and beautiful region than is the city of Fond du Lac. The city itself lies at the extreme northern point of the valley of several small streams that flow into the Fond du Lac river. This valley is sur¬ rounded on the east by the abrupt rise of ground known as "The Ledge," which also extends on the southern side through Byron and Oakfield, and on the west the height is nearly equal to that on the east, but the ascent from the valley is very gradual, even as far as the city of Ripon. We have never appreciated what Lake Winnebago might be, and largely because of the unrestored marsh that in¬ tervenes between the city and the lake. When this is filled, as it will be, the favorite shaft of ridicule used by the neighboring city of Oshkosh, to-wit : "webfooters," will be heard no more. Lake Winnebago, extending as it does, thirty or more miles to the north, with an extreme width of twelve miles, is a lake of no small importance. In fact, the great Salt Lake of Utah is the only lake wholly within the bounds of a state, that is larger than Winnebago. This lake forms a reservoir for furnishing power for thirty miles of industries, extending from Neenah to Depere. On the eastern side there are no inlets of any special importance, but commencing with the valley and extending the entire western side, the amount of water running into this reservoir is very great, including the drainage of the valley and the Fox river at Oshkosh, with all of its branches. The lake is 172 feet above Lake Michigan, and some of the hills to the east are as high as 350 feet above Lake Winnebago. The Northwestern road in reach¬ ing the high point a mile beyond Eden, climbs 288 feet from this valley, and the Wisconsin Central in getting to Hamilton even exceeds that height, and the St. Paul does its share of climbing also, but not to so great a height. The highest 4 point on the Chicago & Northwestern between Winnebago and Michigan is one mile north of Campbellsport, the height being 498 feet above Lake Michigan and 326 feet above Winnebago. Ripon is 252 feet above this lake. The height of the surrounding country accounts in part for the facility with which this valley becomes furnished with its wealth of springs and fountains, and which has rendered the city famous as one of the healthiest, if not the healthiest, city of its size in the United States.

What is known as "The Ledge'' furnishes a large number of the most beau¬ tiful springs, the water of which is unexecelled in purity and healthfulness. Most of these springs are very even in their flow, and never entirely cease. Oc¬ casionally one ceases during the long dry seasons, showdng that the head which furnishes the water is small and easily evaporated.

Commencing on the north, in the town of Taycheedah, is the spring of Ed¬ ward Fisher, nine miles from the city, which formerly furnished power for a small feed mill, with a 30 foot breast wheel. Its flow is about 109 gallons per minute.

Next to the south is the largest spring in this region, which furnishes power for the Prehn mill, which old settlers will remember as the "Allen mill." This spring is 225 feet above Lake Winnebago and is a most beautiful spring of pure water. It is nearly uniform in its flow but at the lowest output is not far from 150 gallons per minute. Next to the south is a spring which breaks out in a romantic gorge by the side of the Sheboygan railroad, but it is not uniform in its flow. The Braun spring is constant and the flow is about 60 gallons per min¬ ute, as is also the Duffy spring next south. Several smaller springs in the town of Empire flow into the valley, until the farm of Hon. O. A. Wells is reached, where is another useful and beautiful spring. Many years ago there was a con¬ test between Oshkosh and Fond du Lac as to the location of the State Hospital, and a part of what was then known as the Lyman Phelps farm was offered as a site for it. It was then estimated that the output of this spring could be piped into the top of the building and supply the same for all time. That estimate was not incorrect.

Next south from this farm is the stream that runs the Leonard mill. Its -source is three beautiful springs on the farm of F. M. Phelps in Empire. For¬ merly the stream was constant but in later years the trees and shrubbery have been removed largely from its banks in the three miles that it travels before reach¬ ing the mill, and when the sun shines a large portion of it is used for watering that greedy orb, much to the detriment of the mill pond.

For the next three miles south there are sundry springs, including a beautiful one at Rienzi cemetery and another at the former home of the ex-Governor Tallmadge, when Lake de Neveu is reached. This beautiful sheet of water is 125 feet above Lake Winnebago. The attractive summer resort of de Neveu is about 225 feet above Lake Winnebago. The extreme southern end of this lake is sup¬ posed to be a body of springs, but a specially large one on the east shore furnishes the summer resorters with their drinking water, and 50 feet above the lake on the de Neveu farm is a most beautiful spring, which by means of a hydraulic ram furnishes the home of the de Neveus and their buildings that are occupied by their guests with an abundance of water, and also supplies a beautiful lakelet in their grounds, in addition to a large flow that also goes to the lake. The out¬ let of this little sheet of water flows into what is known as de Neveu creek. The Twin lakes, a short distance from Eden station, is the source of this creek and furnishes the Williams mill with no mean water power. A few rods below the junction of the outlet of the lake and this creek, another stream joins it, the source of which is some beautiful springs in the town of Byron. This stream suffers as does the Leonard mill stream, from the fact that the shores have been takes the entire flow of the creek before it reaches its junction with the main creek, but at other times a considerable stream is continually passing. The out¬ put of de Neveu creek, including the lake and the Eden stream, is 474 gallons per minute.

The junction of these several streams in one, a short distance from Lake de Neveu, is at an altitude of 95 feet above the lake, and if piped from that point to the city would furnish the city with nearly all the water it needs; in fact, all that it needs except in the hot summer weather ; and the water is about the same as is now used from the fountains.

The east branch of the Fond du Lac river is formed from springs located in the towns of Byron, Oakfield and Fond du Lac. There are three mills on a portion of these streams in the town of Oakfield alone. The stream suffers, as some of the others, by exposure to the hot sun, but the entire output is of no mean amount, and without accurate measurement has been estimated at 3,645 gallons per minute, or 13,122,000 per day. The west branch of the Fond du Lac river, while fed partly by springs, comes largely from the great Eldorado marsh, and as a consequence the flow is very far from being uniform.

The flow of spring water into Lake Winnebago and into the valley in this vicinity amounts to the following number of gallons for each twenty-four hours: Taycheedah springs, as above named, and which have been measured, 536,366 gal¬ lons per day, springs flowing into Taycheedah creek, estimated at 288,000 gallons per day; de Neveu creek and its tributaries, 701,760 gallons per day; total, 1,526,126 gallons per day. The east branch of the Fond du Lac river is about 13,122,000 gallons per day, at a stage when there is no accession of surface water.

The numerous fountains originally gave Fond du Lac the name of "Fountain City." Its more than one thousand fountains which were in the city before the building of the water works, were of great importance and wealth and the dis¬ cussion of the origin and flow of these fountains is a most interesting one to any one who has made it a study.

In addition to the lakes, springs; etc., the following important rivers rise in Fond du Lac county, mostly in the eastern portion: Manitowoc, Sheboygan, Mul¬ let, Milwaukee and two branches of Rock river, beside the little streams around Fond du Lac.

Beautiful Roads

Everyone knows of the beautiful drive to Lake de Neveu and to Rienzi cem¬ etery. Not every one, however, knows of the beautiful drive from the east shore of Lake de Neveu, first, directly over the hills to the east, where at the former Germond farm is an elevation close to the road, 375 feet above Lake Winnebago. , Going east about two miles a beautiful view is obtained of Empire, some portions of Taycheedah and Marshfield, including the buildings of the monastery and con¬ vent at Calvary. A mile to the north is a beautiful view of Lake Winnebago and a portion of the city of Fond du Lac. But a still better view is obtained by turning to the north at the first road after leaving de Neveu lake, and after rid¬ ing about a mile in that direction what might be called "Observation Point" is reached, where a marvelous view can be had, including Byron and Oakfield to the south, Ripon country to the west, and the city of Fond du Lac, Lake Winne- bago and Oshkosh to the north. America can produce but few scenes equal to this in beauty. Portions of some of the scenery can be seen upon different hills to the north, especially from the hill above Peebles.

The romantic drive passing from the ancient village of Taycheedah and wind¬ ing gracefully up the hills to the east toward Sheboygan, which was the original line of the old Sheboygan plank road, must not be forgotten. About a mile to the north of Peebles, in the town of Taycheedah and on the farm of Patrick Mc- Cullen, was located the government observatory, used in triangulation of this region of country. The hill upon which it is located is by no means the highest in the region but from it a view can be obtained that perhaps can nowhere else be had with the same effect. On the north can be seen the entire lake, and to the south the entire region surrounding Waupun. The government in doing the work above mentioned placed an observatory fifty feet high upon this hill, with another at Clifton on the north, and Waupun on the south, and had their ar¬ rangements for signalling from one to the other. Three small monuments or stones still stand on this hill to mark the point of survey made by the government.

Another very fine view can be obtained on the hills above the Prehn mill, and at almost any point to the north of this, and especially at the top of the hill about one mile north of Prehn's. The region tributary to the road from Green Bay, Stockbridge, etc., formerly came over the hills until a point above the Goutermout farm was reached, when it runs down what in earlier times was known as the "McClure hill." The lover of a romantic drive would do well to drive up this hill, which leaves the Calumet road just north of Goutermout creek, and pass north over the hills to the north line of Taycheedah, turning at that line to the west and coming down through another most beautiful glen to the Calumet road. He is then within about a mile of Winnebago park.

It would be impossible to enumerate all the beautiful drives that can be had among the surrounding hills, but the following may be mentioned : A drive to the picturesque Byron camp grounds by way of the prairie and the valleys to the west, and in returning go directly east from the camp grounds a mile to the Byron Corners, and then directly north on what was formerly known as the "Mil¬ waukee road" to the city. Some views of the valley from the tops of the numer¬ ous hills that are passed are unsurpassingly fine.

For a long drive, a trip to Long lake and Dundee is especially attractive; an¬ other is that to Dotyville, north to Eggersville, returning by the old Sheboygan plank road. But the finest carriage trip, perhaps in the state, is the trip around Lake Winnebago. A good team will take the pleasure seeker from here to Neenah in an afternoon giving him time to stop at Morley's Point, which is the finest point on the lake, with its clear water and bold shores, passing the resorts also of Pawcatuk and Stony Beach, and also passing in sight of Island Park, which is the only island in the lake. About midway at the north end of Lake Winnebago is a resort upon the sand beach that is kept up by residents of Appleton, and is quite attractive. The next stop is at Clifton. At this point is a drive up as steep a road as can be found, to the top of the cliff, 250 feet above the lake. This scene is one of rare grandeur and beauty, the valley extending north to Kaukauna and Appleton, both of which are hidden, however, by the intervening timber, with Neenah and Menasha in front, and Oshkosh and Fond du Lac away to the left. Leaving for Fond du Lac one drives on the old cemetery road, which in early days was traversed by such men as ex-President Taylor and Jeff Davis when they were lieutenants in the army, and traveled from Fort Howard on the north to Prairie du Chien to the southwest, by way of Fond du Lac and Portage. Traveling a distance of three or four miles Stockbridge valley is reached and from that point to Fond du Lac is a valley noted for its fertility and beauty. The valley is from two to three miles in width from the bluff to the lake. After leaving Stockbridge on traveling to Fond du Lac the following places are passed: Quinney, Brothertown, Calumet, Pipe village, Winnebago park, Peebles, Taycheedah.

Winnebago Park

In the fall of 1888, John Heath, Walter W. Wild, Dr. J. H. McNeel and the late Charles E. Huber, held an informal meeting to discuss the question of estab¬ lishing a summer resort on the eastern shore of Lake Winnebago. The action of this meeting led to the incorporation of an association, and in February, 1889, after careful investigation, the resort was located on the site now known as Win¬ nebago Park. In March following a committee was authorized to purchase twenty acres of Mr. Beyer, to include a half mile of lake front. The park is ten miles from Fond du Lac, on the Calumet road, and by water, seven miles from Lakeside Park. The lots are 50 feet front on the lake and 300 feet deep.

Perhaps of all the beautiful spots on the banks of Lake Winnebago there is none more charming for situation than Winnebago Park. It is an ideal place for rest, comfort and the enjoyment of the refreshing and healthful sports which are almost inseparable from grove and water. No energy was spared in the effort to make the park beautiful in all its surroundings. The forest was subdued, and during the first season three hundred cords of wood were removed from the park grounds. Dr. McNeel was the first president of the association and to John Heath was given the honor of naming the new resort. In 1889 a club house was built, 24x40 feet, which will seat 100 persons. It is equipped with a first class range, and what is still more important, a brick oven of large capacity was built, which greatly facilitates the culinary work of the club house. It is also abun¬ dantly supplied with tableware and all other needful articles necessary to give the members and their friends faultless service.

The first cottage on the grounds was a portable one owned by Ed Wild, which was removed from Lake de Neveu, and it still remains one of the curiosities of the place. Since then other members of the association have erected cottages, most of them attractive and modern summer houses.

In June, 1893, John Boyle started the project of building Recreation Hall, which was ready for occupancy on the 4th of July following. Yearly this hall * has been the scene of many happy hours. Socials, musicales and delightful entertainments of various kinds have been given, and notably among them the popular Sunday afternoon sacred concerts. In 1893 the ladies association of Winnebago Park was formed, which has been of great assistance in the furnishment of the club house and the installment of a high grade piano for Recreation Hall.

The park is supplied with pure, cold fountain water, which is obtained at the depth of 40 feet. As a place for summer homes of those who delight in nature, it lacks nothing, and its future possibilities are unbounded. This is the verdict of all visitors, not only of this country but also those from foreign lands, and the experience of every year since the park was opened, has been that the gentlemen who originated the scheme "builded better than they knew." The scenery is not only the most charming of all nature's building, and the sunsets matchless in their beauty, but Lake Winnebago - the largest fresh water inland lake in the United States - is the pride of anglers. It contains an abundance of black and white bass, pickerel, pike and perch. One boating party in 1897 caught eightysix in an hour and a quarter. In June, 1897, a party of three caught forty with the line off the park docks.

Another feature of the park is the boating and bathing advantages. The shore is clean and convenient and the water is so graded in depth that children, as well as adults, can row or bathe with perfect security.