Portage City (part 1 of 3)

Portage City

-every now and then force out the wads. He succeeded in reaching the other end of the portage, near Whitney's warehouse, where his lodge was, and as he reached there he dropped dead.

On the 22d of December, Abraham Godin was brought to our post by a Winnebago Indian named Big Fox. Godin was one of the hired men I had engaged in Montreal for the Amercan Fur Company. He had run away, near the mouth of the Wisconsin, from Mr. Rouseaux, the clerk of the company. He was lost twenty-two days. He said that he intended to go to St. Louis. He had with him his gun, and some bags containing his clothes, and a blanket. When he first missed his road, he lived well for a time ; but after his ammunition became exhausted he began to suifer from starvation. He lived upon birds some time; and some days he had nothing whatever. He came to a lake and found dead fish ; and soon reached another lake where the city of Madison now stands. From there, he walked two days without food ; and then, fortunately, he found the carcass of a deer that the wolves had left, from which he got a supply, such as it was, that lasted him for two days. He then came across an Indian trail, which he followed, without knowing where it would lead him. Godin at length took his course through the woods. Reaching a little creek, he followed it. It was now three days since he had eaten anything ; the bottoms of his feet were covered with blisters. He came to a deserted Indian camp where there was an old lodge made of grass and branches, and slept there. The next morning it was impossible for him to walk, his feet were so swelled and blistered, and he was well-nigh starved. He dragged himself out, picked up some branches to cover his body, and commended himself to the mercy of God, and laid down to die. Sleep overcame his exhausted nature, nor did he know how long he remained in that condition. When he awoke, he saw an old Indian that was administering to him refreshment with a wooden spoon. The Indian was Big Fox, who remained faithfully with him for two days, permitting him to eat only a little at a time, but very often of venison. He made some medicine for his feet, then left him, showing him where there was some venison. When Godin saw the Indian going off he felt very bad, thinking he was about to abandon him to his fate ; but he came back, bringing a horse for him to ride, and conveyed him to his lodge on Fox Lake - and from this Indian the lake took its name. As soon as Godin's feet got well. Big Fox brought him to us at Portage. Godin had given all the property he had to the Indian; but Big Fox returned to him all his clothes, retaining the blanket and gun for his trouble. When the Indian brought him to us, I did not know him at all ; his long hair and beard added not a little to his haggard appearance. He asked me if I was willing to receive him to finish his time, according to agreement ; which I did, and he never again undertook to run away.

In the summer of 1834, I went up to the head of the Lemonweir to establish a trading post for the winter. There were a good many Winnebagoes wintering there. On my way up, about the Seven Mile Creek, at the top of the bluff, I saw, at a considerable distance, an object which I took to be a deer ; but so far away that I was not certain about it. Leaving my horse at the foot of the bluff, I took my rifle and^went up ; but in some places, where there was sand, I saw the tracks of a man's feet, which I judged was a white man's, as when the white man walks he throws his feet outwards, while the Indian turns his quite the other way.

After 1 got upon the top of the bluff, I saw a man, his clothes all in rags, looking toward the prairie. He heard me walking, turned his head and saw me, then jumped up and ran off. I discovered that he was afraid, and hallooed to him in French ; but he did not answer me and kept on running. I then called to him in English to stop, with assurances that I was not going to hurt him. He finally stopped and walked up to me, informing me that he came from the ^Mississippi; that he had been hired to cut cordwood near about Coon Channel, on the Mississippi, for Judge Lockwood, of Prairie du Chien. That, starting with his gun to hunc partridges, about the 4th of May, he got lost. He kept on walking tdl he came to a little creek that he followed for a long time in the direction that he thought would take him to the Mississippi; he cime across an Indian trail that he lost sight of in the woods. He said that he kept his gun a long time after he had used up his ammunition ; but fatigue and weakness at length obliged him to throw it away. He said that he iiad often heard the report of guns, but was afraid- it proceeded from Indians ; and that he would rather die in the woods of starvation, than be butchered by the savages. On one occasion, he came to a place where he saw, at a distance, three Indians ; and he ran with all his might in the woods, thinking every moment they were after him, and if overtaken, his life would pay the forfeit. After his shoes and clothes were worn out, he came to a lodge; he was so hungry and feeble that he resolved to venture in ; but it was empty, the owner having evidently gone off to hunt. He found plenty to eat of all kinds of meat, and indulged himself very heartily ; after which he went to sleep, and dreamed very bad dreams, causing him to get up earlier than he otherwise would have done. Taking a pair of moccasins, a pair of buckskin leggins, a blanket, as much venison as he could conveniently carry, a pouch full of tobccco, a ilint and steel, some punk and a pipe, he took his departure. About twenty days after, he found a dead Indian in the woods, which circumstance greatly increased his fears lest the Indians should think, if they came across him, that he had caused his death. He had with him a large butcher-knife ; and he told me that had he been chased by an Indian, he would have cut his own throat rather than to have been taken. He said that he had not lived very well, having subsisted on berries from about the 25th of June to the time I found him. He was lost 180 days. When I found him, he had scarcely the semblance of a human being. I made him ride behind me ; and after visiting the place where I proposed establishing my trading-post, I took him to Portage. He told me that his name was Dodge, and that he desired to go to Green Bay. I never saw or heard anything of him afterward.

By the treaty made in 1832, at Fort Armstrong, by the Winnebagoes, Gens. Scott and Atkinson were the United States Commissioners. The Indians agreed to cultivate some of their lands, and the Government was to aid and instruct them in the effort. Peter Pauquette was employed by the Government to attend to the matter. Eight yoke of oxen, a plow, a drag and all the tools necessary for farming were furnished for the purpose. Pauquette chose for the Indians the place that used to be called Black Earth, now known as the Indian farm, in the town of Caledonia, Columbia County. The first plowing that was done there was on the lOth day of June, 1835.

At a subsequent treaty, made in 1837, between the United States and the Winnebagoes, ratified by Congress the following year, the Indians sold all the lands they had east of the Mississippi. Capt. 'Gideon Low, formerly of the Fifth Regiment of infantry, located at Portage City, and made a claim on the same piece of land where the Indians had formerly their experimental farm. He employed Michael Arquette as farmer ; then Francis Provoncil, and, still later, his son-in-law. Temple, and many others. Capt. Low entered the land when it came into market, and Robert Tannant was the last man that managed his Indian farm. Low's heirs sold out to Mr. McKinzie, who now resides there.

In 1836, the Indians had the misfortune to lose the best of their chiefs - Scha-chipka-ka, or De-kau-ry. His death occurred April 20, at the age of ninety, at his village - the locality now known as the Caffrey place, in the town of Caledonia, at the foot of the bluff, between the Wisconsin and Baraboo Rivers. The schoolhouse of District No. 5 now occupies the spot where the old chief died. De-kau-ry's town contained over one hundred lodges, and was the largest of the Winnebago villages. Before he died, De-kau-ry called the Catholic priest, Mr. Vanderbrook, who was at the portage at the time, by whom he was baptized, according to Catholic rites, the day of his death, and was buried in their cemetery near the present court house in Portage City ; and since the abandonment of that burial ground, the old chief's resting-place cannot be identified. He was succeeded by his son, called by the whites Little De-kau-ry, whose Indian name was Cha-ge-ka-ka ; and he did not long survive, dying six months after liis father. He was succeeded by his brother, Hope-ne-scha-ka, or White French.

This part of Wisconsin, at the portage, was considered to be part of Brown County. Daniel Whitney, of Green Bay, had obtained a permit from the War Department to erect a saw-mill and cut pine logs on the Wisconsin, within the territory of the Indians. He built the first saw-mill at Whitney's Rapids, a little below Point Basse in 1831-32. Amable Grignon and Lieut. Marcy had also obtained the privilege to build a saw-mill at Grignon's Rapids in 1836. These were the first saw-mills on the Wisconsin River.

In 1836, by the treaty with the Menoraonee Indians at Cedar Point, on Fox River, held by Gov. Dodge, the Indian title was extinguished in this part of the country and the Upper Wisconsin region, six miles wide from Point Basse, for forty miles up the river. This was designed to open the route to the lumbermen. The high price and the large demand for lumber hurried the business. The river was explored from Point Baosse to Big Bull Falls that year, and no time was lost in the occupation and claim of the best localities. Messrs. Bloomer and Strong and George Cline took possession of the Grand Rapids ; Abraham Brawley commenced at Mill Creek ; Parry and Veeder on the same stream.

In the year 1839, John L. Moore occupied the Little Bull Falls and George Steele the Big Bull Falls, so that all that region was in the possession of the lumbermen before the year 1810. In 1839, the Cedar. Point section, three miles wide, on that river, was ordered to be reported to the Surveyor General, at Dubuque. Joshua Hathaway, of Milwaukee, was appointed surveyor, and surveyed the Upper Wisconsin region. All the land in that section of country was offered at public sale at Mineral Point from 1840 to 1845. The saw-mills increased with great rapidity, villages and towns sprang up, so that when Mr. W. Owen and his party passed Portage in 1847, coming down from the Upper Wisconsin, the population at Wausau was estimated at three hundred and fifty, and that of the Upper Wisconsin country at more than a thousand. The Wisconsin pinery soon became extensively known throughout all the Northwest, and it furnished the lumber needful for the improvement and habitation of the immense prairies of Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri.

In 1837, Leon Braux, who had a half-breed Winnebago woman named Mariette Grignon, daughter of Pierre Grignon, obtained permission to open a farm on the south side of the Baraboo, on the bluff where Moses Pauquette now lives. It was the second fiirm improved in the town of Caledonia. In the same year Silas Walsworth came to Portage on board a steamboat, the name of which I forget. Andrew Dunn, a man of the name of Baker, and Hugh McFarlane arrived the same year. The Indians were that year, 1837, invited to go to Washington to sell the remainder of their lands east of the Mississippi. One-eyed De-kaury,* Little De-kau-ry, Winnosheek, Waukon De-kau-ry, and six other chiefs, complied with his request, taking me with them ; and ceded to the Government their remaining lands, but reserved the privilege of occupying them until 1840, and receive their annuity at Portage until that time. This did not prevent the whites from making claims on the ceded lands.

I had a trading-post at To-kau-nee's village, where Mauston is now situated, then a small village of only five or six wigwams, named after its chief, a mixed blood of Winnebago and Menomonee, though his people were called Winnebagoes.

Abraham Wood was keeping a grog-shop a little below Henry Carpenter's house, on the Wisconsin. An Indian came there to get some liquor by force, with his knife in his hand. Wood was a very strong man, and pushed old Vane Blanc, the Indian, and struck him on the head with a stick he had in his hand, breaking the skull, he falling dead. The Indians collected around the house to butcher him in their own way. I made myself a road through them to Wood's house for his protection. Early in the morning of the next day, I sent Wood to give himself up to Henry Merrell, who was then a Justice of the Peace ; and he told me that Merrell advised him to run off. Merrell did, however, issue a warrant at the request of the sub-agent, Thomas Buoy, which was served by Satterlee Clark, who overtook Wood at Asa Springer's and brought him back to the portage. He was sent to Green Bay for trial ; the grand jury did not find a bill against him.

Wood, together with Wallace Rowan, went and made a claim on the Baraboo, in the fall of 1840; they built a saw-mill just at the upper end of Baraboo Village. They supplied the lumber that was used in building up the place ; and they rafted lumber down the river, which is so

* Wadge-hut-ta-kaw, or the Big Canoe, commonly culled One-Eyed De-kau-ry, son of Cha-poat-ka-kaw, or the Buzzard, and grandson o( the French De-kau-ry, died at the Channel, Monroe County, Wisconsin, in August, 1H64. L. 0. D.

crooked that it caused them a good deal of fatigue and trouble to reach the Wisconsin. The same winter, 1 made up some square timber on the Lemonweir River near my trading-post. I 'took the mill site just where the town of Mauston now stands. I am the first person who tried to take square timber from the Lemonweir : and was the first, in the same year, that undertook to make a wagon road from Portage to Lemonweir, and thence to La Crosse, where is now the city of La Crosse. At that time, there was but one trading-house at La Crosse, and that belonged to the American Fur Company.

Edward Pezenne, and two or three men with him, came to Portage in the summer of 1836. Near the end of June, I went to the Four Lakes, where the city of Madison now stands, to trade some red deerskins. I had with me Simon Lecuyer, Pierre and John Le Roy. We found there, A. Godin, Oliver Arimell, his squaw and three or four children, and Michael St. Cyr ; Arimell, and St. Cyr used to get goods from traders at Portage ; and besides these, there were Charles Jalefoux and Joe Peltier, engaged in hunting and fishing. We met together, about the 4th of July, at the lake ; they had venison and fish, and we had flour, pork, tea, coffee, sugar and whisky. John Le Roy had his violin, and we had a great feast; I believe we were the first to celebrate the fourth at Madison. I do not remember that as many white men had ever met there before.

In the spring of 1838, Martin Rowney. a discharged soldier, who had been trading with the Indians on the Puckaway Lake, came back to the portage, and had a spree for two weeks or more. I do not know whether he was tired of drinking, or wanted to break off; but he took an oath that he would not drink another drop of liquor as long as he lived. He was living with me in a house occupied by myself and Walsworth, a little below Carpenter's house. He slept in the same room that I did. He awoke in the night with terror, jumped close to my bed, and told me that the devil wanted to take him away. I pushed him with force, and told him that if the devil had him, he had no business with me. He began to cry and lament over his condition, keeping it up some time. When tendered some liquor in the morning, he declined it, saying he had sworn not to drink any more, and he would rather die than taste it. I had toast and strong tea made for him at breakfast ; he barely tasted the bread, but drank two. cups of tea, and appeared much better. He told me he had an idea of going to Madison to take a lot there, as it seemed a point of some promise. He left us about 8 or 9 o'clock ; and about 11 or 12, Smith, the mail carrier, told us that he saw a man four or five miles up the road crying, and appeared to be out of his mind. I started in company with J. Walsworth, Laront, Harin Carpenter, and old man Rowan ; we found the track about half a mile north of Rocky Run ; there was a little island surrounded by sand ; we measured it all around, and I found it twenty-five and a lialf feet on either side to where any trees or grass grew. On that patch of grass, thus surrounded, we found his coat, vest, pants, hat and other clothing, but no trace of himself. In his pocket there was a pocket-book containing some memorandum papers, and several dollars in money. We took all his things and brought them home. We met Capt. Low, and reported to him the sad story ; he told us to go and get some soldiers to aid us in making a further search. I engaged fifteen Indians, whom I promised to pay well, to find him dead or alive. Capt. Low came with twelve soldiers, and ten or twelve citizens joined in the search, which, witii a brief intermission, wa.s kept up till the close of the following day ; but no clew was found of him, and nothing was ever iieard of him afterward. I knew him to be very clumsy, not being able to jump three feet to save his life, and what became of him Avas a mystery.

During that summer I opened a farm in Caledonia, where Thomas Prescott now lives ; it was the third farm put in cultivation in that townsiiip. In the fall of that year, John Baptiste Dubay improved a farm on the bluff, a little north of G. Geyman. In 1840, Thomas Riley improved a farm, or made a claim, where John Corridon lives; Thomas Robertson, one in Caledonia in 1840-41, on the bank of the Wisconsin 'River, which Wardrop owns now. In 1841, Henry Lewis made a claim where Patrick Skerritt now lives.

In 1810, the troops came to Portage to remove the Winnebago Indians, a p:irt of the Eighth Regiment of infantry under coinniand of Col. Worth, and a part of the Fifth Regiment of infantry under Gen. Brooke, with Gen. Atkinson as commander in chief. There were three interpreters employed by the Government, Antoine Grignon, Pierre Meneg and myself. Meneg was sent after Yellow Thunder and Black Wolfs son, inviting them to Portage to get provisions ; but instead of that, as soon as they arrived they were put into the guardhouse, with ball and chain, which hurt the feelings of the Indians very much, as they had done no harm to the Government. The General had understood that they were, going to revolt, refusing to emigrate, according to treaty stipulations ; but as soon as Gov. Dodge came here, they were released. They all promised faithfully to be at Portage, ready for removal, in three days, and they were all there the second day.

There were two large boats, in which to take down such of the Indians as had no canoes. Antoine Grignon and Pierre Meneg went down with the boats. I was kept here by the order of Gen. Atkinson, at the suggestion of Gen Brady, to assist the dragoons commanded by Capt. Sumner* and Lieuts. McCratef and SteeleJ. We went down to Rock River, to look for Mas-i-ma-ni-ka-ka ; from there we went to Madison, and thence to Fox River. We picked up 250 Indians, men, women and children, and we took them down to Prairie du Chien. Before we got there, at the head of the Kickapoo River, we came to three Indian wigwams. The Captain directed me to order the Indians to break up their camp and come along Avith him. Two old women, sisters of Black Wolf, and another one came up, throwing themselves on their knees, crying and beseeching Capt. Sumner to kill them ; that they were old, and would rather die and be buried with their fathers, mothers and children, than be taken away, and that they were ready to receive their death-blows. Capt. Sumner had pity on them and permitted them to stay where they were, and left three young Indians to hunt for them.

A little further on, we came to the camp of Ke ji-que-we-ka and others, when they were told by the Captain, through me, to break up their camp and put their things in ihe wagon and come along. After they had thus deposited their little property, they started south from where we were. The Captain bade me to ask them where they were going. They said they were going to bid good-bye to their fathers, mothers and children. The Captain directed me to go with them and watch them, and we found them on their knees, kissing the ground and crying very loud, where their relatives were buried. This touched the Captain's feelings, and he exclaimed, " Good God ! What harm could those poor Indians do among the rocks ? "

I was employed by the Indian Department as interpreter at the time of the removal of the Indians from the portage to Turkey River, after the payment was made. It was late in the fall. I wintered at Prairie du Chien ; and, in the spring of 1841, came back to Caledonia to improve my land.

In 1842, James Wilson came with his family, and brought with him Thomas Roberts and family. Wilson made a claim in Caledonia, opposite Dekorra.

In 1844, Capt. Sumner came here again, with the dragoons, and sent for me to help him in hunting in the woods after Dandy, the Winnebago chief. We found him at the head of the Baraboo, and the Captain made him ride on horseback, and fastened his legs with ox-chains under the horse's belly, when he demanded to be conducted to Gov. Dodge. This

* Edwin V. Sumner was bom in Boston, Maes., in January, 1796, spending his early life in mercantile establishments, and entering the army as a Second Lieutenant in 1819. Became First Lieutenant in 1823, and served in the Black Hawk war. He was promoted to a captaincy of dragoons in 1833, and a Major in 1846. He led the famous cavalry i barge at Cerro Gordo, in April, 1847, in which he was woundt-d. and was brevetted Lieutenant Colonel ; and distinguished himself at Contreras, Churubusco and Molino del Rey, in the latter, commanding the whole cavalry force, and holding 5,01)0 Mexican lancers in check, for which he was brevetted Colonel. He wa.-* subsequently made Lieutenant Colonel of Dragoons, Military Governor of New Mexico, and, in 1857, led a successful expedition against the Cheyennes, whom be defeated at Solomon's Fork of Kansas Kiver. He was made first a Brigadier General, and then a Miijor General of A'olunteers, and a Brevet Slajor General in the regular army in May, 1862. He commanded the left wing of tlie army at the siege of Yorktown; was in all the battles of the Peninsula, and twice wounded. He was again wounded at Antietam ; and at Fredericksburg, in December, 1862, he commanded the right grand division of the army. He died at Syracuse, N. Y., March 21, 1863. L. C. 1>.

tThomas McCrate, a native of Maine, was a cadet from 1832 to 1836, when he entered the army as a Second liieutenant of dragoons, serving on the frontiers and at Fort Crawford, in 1840-41, and subsequently on the frontiers, until his health failing him, when he retired on sick leave, dying at Boston Septtmber 18, 1845, at the age of thirty. L. G. D.

J William Steele, of New York, was a cadet from 1836 to 1840, when he joined the army, in the dragoons, as Second Lieutenant, and, for good conduct in various battles in the Mexican war, was brevetted Captain, and, from 1848 to 1861, was mucli engaged on the frontiers, against the Indians. In May, 1861, he resigned and joined the Confederate forces, and survived the war. L. C. D.

was granted, and he was taken to Mineral Point. Gov. Dodge asked him what he wanted of him, after having given so much trouble to the Government. He .said he Avaiited to talk with him in council, which request was granted. Then Dandy took a Bible from his bosom, and sisked the Governor, through me. if it was a good book. The Governor was surprised to see a Bible in the hands of an Indian, and bade me intjuire where he got it. Dandy answered that if the Governor would be so good as to answer his question, he would render an account of all he would like to know. Then the Governor told him that it was a good book - that he could never have a better one in his hand. " Then," said Dandy, " if a man would do all that was in that book, could any more be required of him?" The Governor said no. " Well," said Dandy, "look that book all through, and if you find in it that Dandy ought to be removed by the Government to Turkey River, then I will go right off; but if you do not find it, I will never go there to stay." The Governor gave him an answer that his trick had no effect. He was then replaced on the horse, chained up again and taken to Prairie du Chien.

The chain had so blistered his legs and feet that it was two or three weeks before he was able to walk. Some time after, an order came from Turkey River to send Dandy there. He had been put in charge of a corporal at Fort Crawford, who was obliged to carry Dandy on his back when he had occasion to be moved. After the order was given to the Corporal to take his prisoner to Turkey River, he procured a buggy and drove it to the fort gate, carried Dandy on his back to the vehicle, and then went back into the fort to get his whip. He thought that the prisoner was not able to run away, as he could not walk. But as soon as the Corporal was out of sight. Dandy jumped from the buggy and took his course toward the bluffs, at a full run. When the Corporal returned, finding his prisoner gone, he went after him, but failed to overtake him. The Corporal swore that if he ever saw Dandy again he would kill him, as he had made him so much trouble in carrying him about from place to place, and then to play him such a bad trick.

" That was the last time the military ever went after Dandy ; and the good old chief lived many a year thereafter, to recount his exploits. Like the most of his people, he was a great beggar, and dearly loved the "fire-water ' of the whites. He died at Peten Well, near Necedah, where he and his family were encamped, in June, 1870, at about the age of seventyseven years.*

To give a proper understanding of the history, not only of Fort Winnebago, but of the persons connected with it, it will be necessary to detail my early recollections, from my arrival in what is now the State of Wisconsin. On the 14th day of April, 1828, I landed at Green Bay, then considered a small French settlement. Fort Howard was then situated near where the" passenger depot of the Chicago & North- Western Railway now stands. On the opposite side of the river, where the city of Green Bay is located, there was a wilderness. Three miles above, on the river, was a small group of houses that could hardly be termed a village, but which was, nevertheless, called " Shanty Town." Residing there were several American families, among whom were Daniel Whitney, Henry S. Baird, Robert Irwin, Alexander Irwin, Samuel Irwin, and quite a number of French and half-breeds. The fort contained three companies of United States Infantry, and was commanded by then Major, afterward General, Twiggs. The companies were severally commanded by Captain, and his brother, Major, Buell, Capt. Spence, and Captain, since General, William Harney.

The same season, 1828, the First Infantry was ordered to the portage to build a fort, to be called Fort Winnebago. They were relieved at Fort Howard by four companies of the Fifth

* J. T. KiiiKHton furrii.shcs this date of Dandy'8 death aud his ag(>, di'iivod from his band of Winnelmgooi. " IVti-n Well," adds Mr. Kinestoii, -' is an isolated rockv peak, 250 feet ahove the surface of the river, inimediatcly on the west bank of the Wiaciinsin, and situated on Section !l, Tonii Is north. Uange 4 east." Owen, in his Geological Report, says : "It is the most elevated of all the isolated peaks measured on this part of the Wisconsin, being isa feet above the river. Its east face is nearly perpendicular; on the west side is a very steep elope, Kii) feet alwve tliH surface of the plain, thickly strewn with immense blocks of sandstone. The north side is worn into several subordinate peaks, but little inf.rior in height to the m lin mass, being about 200 feet above a creek that flows near their base." L. C. D.

United States Infantry, under command of Col. William Lawrence. Previous to 1827 (the year of "the Winnebago war," under Red Bird, a Winnebago chief), the Indians had been in the habit of levying tolls on the goods of the American Fur Company, and others who were obligeil to unload to cross the portage. At the earnest solicitation of John Jacob Astor, who was then . the head of the American Fur Company, the Government concluded to erect a fort for their protection.

Maj. Twiggs then left for the portage, where he erected temporary barracks of tamarack logs, in which to winter his command, and detailed a party to go up the Wisconsin and procure pine timber with which to erect a permanent fort. Another party was detailed to quarry stone at what was called " Stone Quarry Hill." With the first rise of water in the spring of 1829. the timber and logs were floated down to the portage, were hauled by teams to the fort, where all the lumber was sawed by hand with whip-saws with which to build the entire fort. The brick necessary for the chimneys, fire-places, etc., were burned just opposite the narrows, on the Wisconsin River, a short distance above.

Of the officers stationed at Fort Winnebago from 1828 till the 5th of July, 1831, only two survive, to wit, Gen. William Harney and Lieut. Jefiierson Davis. Harney, at that time, was a Captain, and Davis was his subaltern. Both were considered among the best ofiicers in the service. I think it is conceded that, for frontier service, Capt. Harney had no superior anywhere. There was no better disciplinarian, and no more indulgent officer to his men when their behavior was good. It has been said of him by persons in civil life that he was cruel to his men ; but this was not true. He was, however, a terror to evil-doers, whether soldiers or citizens. To give an idea of the man, he was over six feet in height, well proportioned, and exceedingly active and strong. I will relate an anecdote or two, which will give a more correct idea of his character.

Gen. Harney once took offense at an Indian, and determined to cowhide him ; but was persuaded to give him "a chance for his life." He had him taken half a mile above the Government wash-houses, on the bank of the river ; gave him 100 yards the start, with the agreement that, if the Indian passed the wash-houses before he was caught, he should go free for that time. Peter Pauquette gave the word, and away they went. Harney gained on him so rapidly that * he seemed sure to overtake him. There was a spot about 200 yards from the wash-house that only froze over in very cold weather, and opened again during the day. The night before was very cold, and this point had frozen over about half an inch thick. When they reached this point, Harney was just ready to put his hand on him, when the Indian, being quite light, crossed the thin ice safely. Not so, however, with the Captain ; he carried too many pounds, and down he went. He came to the surface at once, and called to a sentinel to shoot the Indian. The sentinel fired well and the ball struck the ice half a mile from the Indian. All the officers were on the bank witnessing the race and of course were convulsed with laughter.

On another occasion it was necessary to punish the champion pugilist of the fort, a very large man named Hewitt. The man said to the Captain : " If you were an enlisted man, or I was a captain, you could not treat me in that way." Harney took him out behind the barracks, told him to consider himself a captain, and do his best. Hewitt pitched at the Captain fuwously, when the Captain knocked him down. This was repeated about a dozen times when he said," Captain, I have been captain long enough to suit me, I would now like to be reduced to the ranks."

At another time, Harney causht a citizen from the lead mines selling whisky to his men. He tied him up to the flag-staff and cowhided him with his own hand.

Neither Harney nor Davis were addicted to those habits that destroyed so many worthy officers, and it in some measure accounts for their being still alive.

In June, 1830, I was appointed sutler at Fort Winnebago, by Gen. Jackson, who was then President. Being under age, I was obliged to farm the privilege out to Oliver Newbury, of Detroit, and as the sutler was required to remain at the post, I was employed by Mr. Newbury as clerk, devoting most of my time to the Indian trade. I arrived at Fort Winnebago on the 21st of July, 1830.

The most interesting event since my advent into Wisconsin was what is known as the- " Black Hawk war," the truthful history of which has never been published, and I think the causes which led to it, and the incidents connected therewith, are known to very f(W people now living.

In 1831, in violation of a treaty stipulation, the Sauk and Fox Indians, under Black Hawk and the Prophet, crossed the Mississippi into Illinois. Black Hawk was a Fox Indian, and the Prophet was a Winnebago, who, with a small band, became discontented and left the Winnebagoes and joined the Sauk and Fox tribes, where they had intermarried, and became part of the same tribe. Gen. Atkinson was ordered to remove them. They offered to go back and remain for 60,000 bushels of corn, and as corn was only 5 cents a bushel he gave it to them and they retired.

The following summer, thinking to get 60,000 bushels of corn quite easily, they again crossed the river, and again Gen. Atkinson was ordered to remove them. Instead of buying corn for them, he ordered all the available troops into the field, and the President ordered out the Illinois militia under the command of Gen. Henry and Gen. Alexander, all under the command of Gen. Atkinson. The Indians started up Rock River, pursued by the troops, commit-, ting occasional depredations as they went along. After they got into Wisconsin the troops lost track of them, and Gen. Atkinson continued up Rock Riv^ to where the village of Fort Atkinson now stands, where he established his headquarters and built a temporary fort.

In the meantime. Black Hawk, learning from the Winnebagoes who also promised to assist him, that only thirty men remained in Fort Winnebago, determined to burn it and massacre its inmates. They accordingly came and encamped on the Fox River, about four miles above Swan Lake, and about eight miles from the fort. Every possible means that could be devised was adopted to protect the fort, and save the lives of the inhabitants, most of whom were women and children ; but after all had been done that was possible, the commanding officer concluded that without re-enforcements we would be lost, and determined to send to Gen. Atkinson for troops. I was selected for that duty for several reasons ; among which was my thorough acquaintance with the country, and another was the probability that the Winnebagoes would not harm me.

Every day some Winnebago would come to me and advise me to go at night and stay in his wigwam, where, he said, I would be safe. At 9 o'clock at night I left the fort, with many a God speed you, armed with a small Ruggles rifle, my dispatches, a tomahawk and bowie-knife. I crossed the Fox River at a shallow point just above where the public stables used to stand, and keeping the Indian trail that led from here to White Crow's village* on Lake Kosh-ko-nong on my right, I traveled rapidly all night, walking up hill, and running down hill, and on a level. I struck the trail several times during the night, but left it immediately, as I feared some Indians might be encamped upon it, whose dogs would discover me before I would discover them. I arrived safely at the fort at half-past 11 o'clock in the forenoon, and delivered my dispatches to Gen. Atkinson, who sent 3,000 men at once to relieve Fort Winnebago. I may add, that Fort Atkinson was constructed of log pickets, with loop-holes for musketry, with block-houses on the southeast and northwest corners, with about an acre of ground within the inclosure.

I slept till 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and then started on my return, following the trail of the mounted militia for twelve miles, when I passed them, and reached the head of a stream that used to be called Rowan's Creek, about twelve miles from the fort, shortly after daylight; and fearing to go further till night, I crawled into some brush and went to sleep.

As soon as it was quite dark, I left my hiding-place and returned to the fort as near as possible by the route Heft it, arriving between 10 and 11 o'clock P. M. I reported that the troops were on the way, and would arrive next evening. We kept close watch all that night, and at 4 o'clock P. M. next day, the troops arrived. It may surprise some of my readers that I should

* Mr. Clark writes thiit White Crow's village was built in the usual style of ludgee, nut wigwams, more like houses, covered with wliite cedar bark ; and contained a population of about twelve hundred souls. - L- C. V.

travel so rapidly, and the mounted troops should be so long on the road ; but, you must recollent, the marshes were very wet at that time, that the whole country was a wilderness, and that when I jumped into a stream and waded through or walked across the marsh, the troops had to build bridges and causeways.

The war would have been ended within two days if the militia had been in condition to follow the Indians; but the horses needed rest and food, rations had to be issued to the men, and many of them were without a change of underclothing, and it was absolutely necessary to wait at least one day at the fort.

The second night the horses took fright (probably at some Winnebago Indians), and there was a regular stampede. Probably some of my readers may not thoroughly comprehend a stampede; and it may be proper to describe it, if possible, though only an eye-witness can properly appreciate how terrible it is. Some horse, or may be a few horses get frightened and start to run ; the entire drove may see nothing to alarm them, but, presuming there is danger, they fall into line, and once fairly under way nothing can stop them.

Those in front cannot stop without being run over, and those in the rear run to keep up. On this occasion, several hundred horses started with a noise like thunder, running so close together that when one was so unfortunate as to face a tree he was either killed or so badly injured as to be unable to proceed, and was run over by the whole drove ; so, if a horse was unable to keep up, he was knocked down and killed ; between the bank of the Wisconsin and the point of land between there and the fort, thirty-seven horses were found dead. They took the trail they came on and ran to the prairie, a distance of about sixteen miles ; over sixty horses were killed, and it was late next day before those recovered were brought back.*

The enemy, in the mean time, went to the Four Lakes, where, as I learned later, they were advised to cross the Wisconsin and the Mississippi as soon as possible.

We had no difficulty in following their trail, and gained upon them rapidly, overtaking them on the bank of the Wisconsin, about twenty-five miles below, where the battle of the Wisconsin was fought.

About one hundred and twenty half-starved Indians defended the pass against nearly three thousand whites, while the remainder of the Indians in plain sight were crossing the Wisconsin with the women and children, and, as soon as these were safe, the Indians broke and ran. Then came the struggle for scalps. Every man who could run started down the hill at his top speed, my Indian scouts and myself far ahead of the militia, and I was about thirty feet ahead of all. Just as I commenced raising the hill on the other side of the valley, Pauquette passed me on horseback, and, as he went by, I caught his horse by the tail and held on till we reached the top of the hill, where we found four dead Indians. Pauquette took one scalp, I took one, and the Indian scouts took the other two.

The Indians traveled as rapidly as possible to the Mississippi, near the mouth of the Bad Axe River. I went home. Shortly after, Capt. Alexander Johnson was ordered to take command of the regular troops, and endeavor to intercept the Indians and prevent their crossing the Mississippi.

A steamboat was sent up the river from Fort Crawford, commanded by Jefferson Davis. He drove the Indians back, and they were all killed or taken prisoners except Black Hawk and the Prophet and their families, who crossed the river before the steamboat arrived.

*Iii Wakefield's "History of the Sank and Fox War," published at Jacksonville, 111., in 1834, the following account is given of this stampede - the writer then servinf; with the Illinois troops : " Our horses were given to fripht and running in a most fearful manner ; and the army was constantly in danger of sufteriug great damage by their taking those frights. No one can tell what a horrid sight it i.s to see 2,1100 horses coming at full speed toward an encampment in tlie dead hour of night. This night - at Fort Winnebago - they got more scared than common. There were about three hundred on this night, that ran about thirty miles before they stopped, and that, too, through the worst kind of swamps. This circumstance caused us to stay here two days, trying to recover our horses ; but all could not be found ; our road baoK the way we had come was hunted for upward of fifty miles, and still a great number of them was missing." L. C. D.

Gen. Winfield Scott offered a reward of $2,000 for the capture of Black Hawk and the Prophet, which was earned by a Winnebago called Little Thunder.* All were then taken to Rock Island, where Gen. Scott had established his headquarters.

From there the leaders were taken to all the large cities in the country, to show them how impossible it was for them to wage successful war against the whites.

In 1837, a detachment of recruits arrived at Fort Winnebago, among whom was a man named Carpenter, who was discharged because he was unable to pass the surgeon for muster. He had a wife, and determined to remain in the country. He accordingly located upon the bank of the Wisconsin River, and after that time kept a tavern for the accommodation of lumbermen.

Capt. Gideon Low left the army in 1839 [1840], and settled on the portage, where he kept a public house a number of years. He died long ago.

Mr. Crelie was the father-in-law of Pauquette, and was sixty years of age when I came to Fort Winnebago in 1830, so that when he was on exhibition at the several soldiers' home fairs in 1863, he was ninety-three years old.

This corresponds with the opinion of Mr. Beouchard, a Frenchman, who came to the State much earlier than I did, as given in his letter to the Milwaukee Sentinel, while the old man was being exhibited at one hundred and forty.

John T. De La Ronde, who died recently in the town of Caledonia, came to Wisconsin about the year 1834 instead of 1828. as is stated in an obituary I read recently.! It was the custom of the American Fur Company to enlist Canadians for a term of years and bring them into the Northwest to be used as voyagers and packers. De La Ronde was so enlisted, and was assigned to work for Peter Pauquette.

Shortly after his arrival, he married the daughter of Whitehead De-kau-ry, who had once been a sort of morganatic wife of an officer of the army,+ and had been left a widow when he was ordered off. He lived with her until she died, and since then I have known very little of him.

I must say something of Count Haraszthy and his family. In about 1842 or 1843, I am not certain which, Haraszthy came to Wisconsin, bought some property at Sauk City, on the Wisconsin, and settled there with his family. He was a nobleman in every sense, and he and his wife were among the most refined people I ever knew ; and both were exceedingly good looking.

I saw them frequently, both at home and at Madison. At the latter place, they had a large number of friends and acquaintances, by whom they were much respected. Early in the spring

* This appears to be an error. Traditions are valuable when sustaining and elaborating historical documents, written at the time and upon the spot, by reliable men ; but it wiil not he safe to set aside such written documents and substitute traditijuB. Gen. .Foseph M. .Street, then Indian agent at I'rairiedu Chien, writes from that place, Anguit 2", 18:i2: "At 11 o'clock to-day, Black Hawk and the Prophet were delivered to Gen. Joseph M. Street, by the One-Eyed Dccorri and Chaetar, Winnebagoes belonging to this agency" and then gives in full the address of Decorri and ('haetar, the latter claiming the chief merits of the capture, saying : " Near the Dalle, on the Wisconsin, I took Black Hawk. No one did it but me - I say this in the ears of all present, and they know it - and [ now appeal to the Great Spirit, our grandfather, and the earth, our grandmother, for the truth of what I say." In a subsequent letter of September ;i. Gen. Street adds: " The day after Gens. Scott and Atkinson left this place, I sent out t-vo parties of Winnebagoes to bring Black Hawk, the Prophet and Neopope to me." Thus Little Thunder may have been with the unsuccessful party, aud would perhaps speak of it subseipiently in such a way as to convey the idea that he aided in the capture of Black Hawk - that is, searched for him, but probably did not mean to be understood that he actually captured him. "^ . J- ^ 1,. U. D.

X Capt. Tliomas Page Gwynne, who had entered the army as a cadet in 1813, serving in the Black Hawk war, had risen through regular grades to Major, in 1^47, and died at Norfolk, Va., February 26, 1861.

of 1849, he joined a party that left Madison to go overland to California. Among those who went out with him was Thomas W. Sutherland, who had formerly been United States District Attorney of the Territory. Haraszthy was (juite successful in raising grapes, and in the manufacture of wine and distilled spirits. Within two or three years last past, I read in some paper a thrilling account of his death. It seemed he had procured the exclusive privilege of manufacturing distilled spirits in Central America : that he went with a small party in search of a good locality for raising grapes and establishing a distillery ; that the party came to a bayou filled with crocodiles, over which there was a small foot bridge. Haraszthy, being in the advance, attempted to cross the bridge, which gave way, precipitating him into the water, and, before he could be recovered by his friends, a large crocodile caught him by the middle and carried him off, while a large number followed. His fate can well be imagined.*

This day [they were traveling from Chicago to Fort Winnebago, in 1831], we were journeying in hopes to reach, at an early hour, that broad expanse of the Rock River which here forms the Kosh-ko-nong. The appellation of this water, rendered doubly affecting by the subsequent fate of its people, imports " the lake we live on."

Our road for the early part of the day led through forests so thick and tangled that Grignon and Lecuyer were often obliged to go in advance as pioneers with their axes, to cut away the obstructing shrubs and branches. It was slow work and at times quite discouraging, but we were through with it at last, and then we came into a country of altogether different description - low prairies, intersected with deep, narrow streams like canals, the passage of which, either by horses or carriages, was often a mitter of delay and even difficulty.

Several times in the course of the forenoon, the horses were to be taken from the carriage and the latter pulled and pushed across the deep narrow channels as best it might.

The wooded banks of the Kosh-ko-nong were never welcomed with greater delight than by us when they at length broke upon our sight. A ride of five or six miles through the beautiful oak openings brought us to Man-Eater's village, a collection of neat bark wigwams, with extensive fields on each side, of corn, beans, and squashes, recently planted, but already giving promise of a fine crop. In front was the broad blue lake, the shores of which, to the south, were open and marshy, but near the village and stretching far away to the north, were bordered by fine lofty trees. The village was built but a short distance below the point where the Rock River opens into the lake, and during a conversation between our party and the. Indians at the village, an arrangement was made with them to take us across at a spot about half a mile above.

A number of Winnebagoes (for we had been among our own people since leaving Gros-pied Lake) set out for the appointed place by water, paddling their canoes, of which they had selected the largest and strongest.

Arrived at the spot indicated, we dismounted, and the men commenced the task of unsaddling and unloading. We were soon placed in the canoes, and paddled across to the opposite bank. Next, the horses were swum across - after them was to come the carriage. Two long wooden canoes were securely lashed together side by side, and being of sufficient width to admit of the carriage standing within them, the passage was commenced. Again and again the tottering barks would sway from side to side, and a cry or a shout would arise from our party on shore, as the whole mass seemed about to plunge sideways into the water, but it would presently recover itself, and at length, after various deviations from the perpendicular, it reached the shore in safety.

We now hoped that our troubles were at an end, and that we had nothing to do but to mount and trot on as fast as possible to Fort Winnebago. But no. Half a mile farther on was

*Count Haraszthy'.^ deatli is elsewhere described in this booli with particularity, t From " Wau-Buii, the Early Day in the Northwest," pp. 264-26G.

a formidable swamp, of no great width it is true, but with a depth of from two to three feet of mud and water. It was a question whether, with the carriage, we could get through it at all. Several of the Indians accompanied us to this place, partly to give us their aid and counsel, and partly to enjoy the fun of the spectacle.

On reaching the swamp, we were disposed to laugh at the formidable representations which had been made to us. We 'saw only a strip of what seemed rather low land covered with tall, dry rushes.

It is true, the ground looked a little wet, but there seemed nothing to justify all the apprehensions that had been excited. Great was my surprise, then, to see my husband, who had been a few minutes absent, returned to our circle attired in his duck trowsers, and without shoes or stockings.

" Carry you through the swamp on my shoulder. Come, Petaille, you are the strongest - you are to carry Madame Kinzie, and To-shun-nuck there (pointing to a tall, stout Winnebago), he will take Madame Helm."

" No danger of that," said they, and no one followed my example. By the time they were in the midst of the swamp, however, they found my precaution had been by no means useless. The water through which our bearers had to pass was of such a depth that no efforts of the ladies were sufficient to keep their feet above the surface, and I had the satisfaction of feeling that my burden upon my husband's shoulders was much less, from my being able to keep my first position, instead of changing constantly to avoid a contact with the water.

It will be perceived, that journeying in the woods is, in some degree, a deranger of ceremony and formality ; that it necessarily restricts us somewhat in our conventionalities. The only remedy is, to make ourselves amends by a double share when we return to the civilized walks of life.

By dint of much pulling, shouting, encouraging and threatening, the hoi'ses at length dragged the carriage through the difficult pass, and our red friends were left to return to their village, with, doubtless, a very exaggerated and amusing account of all that they had seen and assisted in.

We had not forgotten our promise to Lieut. Foster to put up a "guide-board of some sort, for his accommodation in following us. We therefore, upon several occasions, carried with us from the woods a few pieces, of three or four feet in length, which we planted at certain points, with a transverse stick through a cleft in the top, thus marking the direction he and his party were to take.

We therefore felt sure that, although a few days later, he would find our trail, and avail himself of the same assistance as we had, in getting through the difficulties of the way.

Our encampins ground, this night, was to be not far distant from the Four Lakes. We were greatly fatigued by the heat and exercise of the day, and most anxiously did we look out for the clumps of willows and alders which were to mark the spot where water would be found. We felt hardly equal to pushing on quite to the bank of the nearest lake. Indeed, it would have taken us too much off our direct course.

When we. at a late hour, came upon a spot fit for our purpose, we exchanged mutual congratulations that this was to be our last night upon the road. The next day we should be at Winnebago.

Our journey had been most delightful, a continual scene of exhilaration and enjoyment ; for the various mishaps, although, for the moment, they had perplexed, yet, in the end, had but added to our amusement. Still, with the inconstancy of human nature, we were pleased to its excitement for the quiet repose of home.

Our next morning's ride was of a more tranquil character than any that had preceded it ; for, at an early hour, we entered upon what was known as the " Twenty Mile Prairie," and I may be permitted to observe that the miles are wonderfully long on the prairies. Our passage this was, except the absence of the sand, like crossing the desert. Mile after mile of unbroken expanse - not a tree, not a living object except ourselves.

The sun, as if to make himself amends for his two months' seclusion, shone forth with redoubled brilliancy. There is no such thing as carrying an umbrella on horseback, though those in the wagon were able to avail themselves of such a shelter.

Our mother's energies had sustained her in the saddle until this day, but she was now fairly to give in, and yield her place on little Brunet to Sister Margaret.

Thus we went on, one little knoll rising beyond another, from the summit of each of which, in succession, we hoped to descry the distant woods, which were to us as the promised land.

Our less-practiced eye could not, at first, discern the faint blue strip, edging the horizon, but it grew and grew upon our vision, and fatigue and all discomfort proportionately disappeared.

We were in fine spirits by the time we reached Hasting's Woods, a noble forest, watered by a clear, sparkling stream. Grateful as was the refreshment of the green foliage and the cooling waters, we did not allow ourselves to forget that the day was wearing on, and that we must, if possible, complete our journey before sunset; so we soon braced up our minds to continue our route, although we would gladly have lingered another hour.

The marsh of Duck Creek was, thanks to the heat of the past week, in a very difi"erent state from what it had been a few months previous, when I had been so unfortunately submerged in its icy waters. We passed it without difiiculty, and soon found ourselves upon the banks of the creek.

The stream, at this point, was supposed to be always fordable ; and, even were it not so, that, to the majority of our party, would have been a matter of little moment ; to the ladies, however, the subject seemed to demand consideration.

Petaille obeyed. He was mounted on a horse like a giraife, and, extending his feet horizontally, he certainly managed to pass through the stream without much of a wetting.

It seemed certain that the water would come into the wagon, but that was of the less consequence, as, in case of the worst, the passengers could mount upon the seats.

My horse Jerry was above the medium height, so that I soon passed over with no inconvenience but that of being obliged to disengage my feet from the stirrups, and tuck them up snugly against the mane of the horse.

Sister Margaret was still upon Brunet. She was advised to change him for one of the taller horses, but, while the matter was under debate, it was settled by the perverse little wretch taking to the water most unceremoniously, in obedience to the example of the other animals. He was soon beyond his depth, and we were at once alarmed and diverted at seeing his rider.

with surprising adroitness, draw her feet from the stirrups and perch herself upon the tjp of the saddle, where she held her position, and navigated her little refractory steed safely to land.

This was the last of our adventures. A pleasant ride of four miles brought us to the fort, just as the sun was throwing his last beams over the glowing landscape, and, on reaching the ferry, we were at once conducted, by the friends who were awaiting us, to the hospitable roof of Maj. Twiggs.

Born and brought up to the age of fifteen in Utica, N. Y., I moved with my father's family to Sacket'.s Harbor, in that State, in 1819, where I lived, with the exception of two years, until the spring of 1834, when it was proposed to me to remove to Fort Winnebago, and carry on the sutler's business, and by the advice of Col. Cummings, Capt. Clitz and Bradley. t I decided upon going. Capt. Bradley had been through from Prairie du Chien, by way of the Wisconsin and Fox Rivers, to Green Bay, at an early date, stopping and making the portage at Fort Winnebago. Col. Cummings was also in Wisconsin at an early period, visiting Milwaukee, when Solomon Juneau was the only trader and resident there, and from them I obtained valuable information, they being delighted with the country.

In April of 18-34, I made arrangements, going to New York, purchasing goods and shipping them to Fort Winnebago, Wis., by way of Buifalo. I then returned to Sacket's Harbor, bidding my friends good-bye, who thought I was going to "the jumping-off place," as ,;ome expressed it ; and in company with J. L. Huntington, who was going out with me as clerk, started for Buffalo, meeting my goods there; but I found I could not ship them farther tlian Detroit by steam, so I shipped them on board the Pennsylvania, and started out on a beautiful day, the lake calm and smooth ; but before we got to Erie, Penn., the wind rose and blew fresh. We stopped a short time and started for Cleveland, the wind increasing, which made many sick ones, but we stood it without any trouble. The next morning when I went on deck, I found the land on the wrong side of us, and at first concluded the wind had blown us on the Canada shore: but on inquiry was told we were running back to Efie, having broken a shaft. When we arrived there, I concluded to take the stage for Cleveland, as I had got to stop there to purchase supplies of provisions, etc. The captain told me he would be there before me, but I hardly tliought so ; but when I got to Cleveland I found the steamer had passed. I found matiy old acquaintances here, and was much pleased with the town site. Getting through my business, I tnok boat for Detroit, arriving there the Tth of June. I found this a pleasant place, and thought it would become an important point eventually. Here I - also found many old acquaintances, Gen. Brady, Lieut. Backus and others. This place is an old settlement ; I am told it was settled before Philadelphia, and is so well known I need not attempt a description of it. In improving it, many old relics were found. In digging for the foundation of the Presbyterian Church, many bodies were disinterred, no one knowing when they were buried ; all of them had been tomahawked. The landlord called my attention to a tombstone, standing beside the house, which he said was dug up in the alley by his house, with the following inscription : " Here lyes the body of Johu Lewis Page, Ensign in the 31st regiment of foot, who died the 8th of May, 1770 ; " the stone was about two feet long, and evidently executed by some inexperienced hand.

As there was no certainty of a steamer going to the upper lakes, I shipped my goods on board a small schooner, the Commodore Lawrence, Capt. Nelson, master, and started on the 11th of June for Green Bay, where we arrived on the 18th at evening, or rather at the mouth of

-The foot-notes to this reminiscence of Mr. Merrell, marked " L. C. V.," are frum the pen of Dr. Lyman ('. Draper, Corresponding Secretary of the State Historical Society. - Ed.

f Of these three army officers, early visitors of Wisconsin, Col. Alexander CumminKS was a native of Pennsylvania, entering the army in 1808, serving as captain during the war of 1812, a major in 181<J, a lieutenant colonel in 1828, and full colonel in 1830. lie died in New York City, January 31, 1842.

John Clitz, a native of New York, entered the service in March, 1814, distinguishing himself at the sortie of Fort Erie, in Septemher ofthatyear; rose to the rank of captain, dying November 0, 183C.. while in command of Mackinaw.

John Bradley was first a sergeant-major, second lieutenant in 1820, assistant quartermaster from 1826 to 1830, captain in 1834, resigned and retired from the service in 1830. L. C. D.

the river, and came to anchor as the wind died away. Soon after, a row-boat approached with Capt. Cruger and Dr. Worrel in it, from Fort Howard. They were in hopes we had a mail on board, but we, not knowing their necessities in this far-off world, had not thought of it. They kindly offered me a ride up town, which I gladly accepted. When they had landed me at Navarino, now Green Bay, they told me to go up the street until I came to a store with a cupola on top, and adjoining. Judge Arndt lived, who accommodated strangers, as tliere was no public house in the place. 1 called and got into very good quarters. Here I met Judge David Irvin, a judge of the territory, one of tlie executive lights, sent from the East to decide upon the law and evidence among the benighted inhabitants of this f;vr-off and wild country. He was boarding with Juilge Arndt. I wa^ told that, three years before, there was but one house in the place. Now there are eight or ten stores, two large public houses not yet opened, and many comfortable dwellings. Previously, all the business, was done at Shanty Town, two or three miles up the river, and it was not thought possible to build a town on the present site of Green Bay, and when Daniel Whitney laid out a town there he was laughed at and called crazy, for it is a level plain, and was then covered with bushes. The soil was a blackish sand.

Here I got acquainted with many estimable persons - Judge Doty, afterward Governor; M. L. Martin, Daniel Whitney, David Jones, Ebenezer Childs, Col. C. Tullar, A. G. Ellis, and a host of others; and at Fort Howard, situated across the river, Gen. Brooks, Maj. Forsyth, Capt. Denning, Lieuts. Sibley, Chapman, Marcy and others. I was much pleased with Green Bay, and have always valued the acquaintan3es I then made. At Shanty Town, I met Rev. Mr. Cadle, who had charge of the Episcopal Mission, delightfully situated on a hill back from the river in a be.iutiful grove ; Ale.xander Irwin and his lady, and Samuel, his bother, who were engaged in merchandise here ; and William Dickinson and others.

Having letters of introduction to Daniel Whitney, I became well acquainted with him, and have considered him one ot the most enterprising men of the West. At this time he was doing an extensive business in merchandise, reaching on to the Wisconsin River, where he had built the first saw-mill upon the river at Point Basse, some seventy miles above the portage ; two large storehouses at the portage, one on the Wisconsin, and one on the Fox, a shot tower at Helena ; and extending his business to the Mississippi, at Galena and St. Louis. When, three years before, he persisted in building and laying off a town at Green Bay, although he was laughed at and called crazy, he was ahead of the times, and it proved a good investment, although Navarino did not prove one, for Green Bay is now a large and flourishing city. I afterward met him often, and roamed over the country with him on horseback, as all our traveling was accomplished in that way in those days, sometimes without roads, and sometimes on Indian trails, fording streams, marshes, etc., etc., sometimes in the rain, and sometimes through snow, taking the ground for our beds, with our saddles for pillows, carrying provisions and blankets with us. I always found him a cheerful companion, and an estimable man.

He gave me at one time an account, the minutes of which I took down, of a journey of his from Fort Snelling, on the St. Peters, to Detroit, Mich., in 1821, in the midst of winter, as follows : _ .

December 6, 1821, he started in a canoe with two men, the ice running thick in the river. His acquaintances tried hard to persuade him to defer starting until the river closed ; but, no, business called him, and he must go. They soon found themselves in a bad fix, for the ice blocked up under the canoe, so as to raise it six feet above the water. After great exertion, they got to shore, as he said, more pleased than he ever was in his life at getting on land again. They then started on foot, and got only nine miles the first day and encamped. The next day, started down the river bank, packing their food and blankets on their backs, each carrying a gun, the weather extremely cold, and the snow six inches deep. They were five days in getting to Lake Pepin. In crossing the lake, Mr. Whitney broke through ; the lock of his gun catching on the ice was the only thing that saved him. The weather was so cold, some of the time, that they had to stop and build fires to warm themselves to keep from freezing. Thirty miles above Prairie du Chien, they got out of provisions, but, seeing a smoke, they made for it, and found Augustin

Grignon encamped, an acquaintance from Green Bay. lie was on a trading voyage among the Indians; he supplied the travelers with provisions. In this way, they passed through Prairie du Chien, on to Fort Winnebago, and from there to Green Bay, where they arrived in twenty-one days from Fort Snelling. After remaining a few days, he took a guide and started on foot for Chicago, where he arrived in ten days, and from there to Detroit in ten days more, making his tramp in forty-one days from Fort Snelling, and said he could then make his forty miles a day, and found it easier than to ride on horseback.

I shipped my goods by water, contracting with Alexander and Samuel Irwin to transport them to Fort Winnebago in Durham boats, and, in order to do so, it was necessary for them to assemble a large number of Indians at the rapids, to help them over with the boats. At Grand Kau-ka-lo, they had to unload and cart the goods about one mile, and the Indians going into the water, pushing, lifting and hauling the boats over the rapids ; then re-loading, and poling them up to the Grand Chute, where Appleton is now situated. There they had to unload and carry the goods up a hill and down the other side above the chute, which was a perpendicular fall of three or four feet. The Indians would wade in, as many as could stand around the boat, and lift it over, while others had a long cordelle, with a turn around a tree above, taking up the slack, and pulling as much as they could. When the boats were over, they were reloailcd, and then pushed ahead and poled from there to Fort Winnebago. Excepting in low water, they would have to make half-loads over the Winnebago Rapids at Neenah, and, with a fair wind, would sail through Lake Winnebago.

This was the manner of transportation on Fox River at that time, taking from fifteen to eighteen days to reach Fort Winnebago, all of which has been changed by the improvement of the river. '

Having made my arrangements and engaged Hamilton Arndt as a guide, we mounted and pushed up the river to Depere, where we crossed in a scow, and followed an Indian trail up the river to thj Grand Kau-ka-lo, as it was called, where we stayed over night at Augustin Grignon's, a very comfortable place. Here we found his two sons, very pleasant and agreeable young men, having English educations. The ride to-day was delightful to me, for everything was new and pleasant, the trail running on a ridge of land fifty to seventy-five feet above the river, covered with scattered oaks, like an orchard, the ground bedecked with brightest flowers, and descending gradually to the river, which is a broad, beautiful stream, and on the opposite side the banks were covered with a dense forest. Riding over the prairies or openings on the jump, through such scenery, on a narrow foot-path, was something delightful to me. On the 25th, we started and forded the rapids, about eighty rods in width and knee-deep to our horses, as we concluded to go on the east side of Lake Winnebago, this being a new route to Portage. The usual way was to follow a trail on the west side of the lake, and cross the river at Knagg's Ferry, where Oshkosh now is. We struck the lake shore and followed it for a time, but concluded to strike for the road that led through the Stockbridge settlement; but, after wandering through the woods for some time, we went back to the lake shore, and saw an Indian, who directed us to the tVail, so we got to the road, which was one continuous mud hole.

We wanted to get to a house for the night. Here was a road cut through heavy timber by the Stockbridge and Brothertown Indians, twenty-five or thirty miles beyond which the road did not extend. We stayed over night at a comfortable log house. In the morning, we rode to Mr. Abner's, where we got a good breakfiist. These people have comfortable buildings, fields fenced and cultivated, and I should have supposed we were passing through a white settlement, if I was not told to the contrary. These Brothertowns talk English, and have lost their Indian language. The lands are heavily timbered, and very rich, each family having 100 acres.

About half a mile further on, we struck the praiiie, which to me was a beautiful sight. Here we could see a grass plat for four or five miles, and not a tree or bush on it. Then again, us we passed on, we would see orchards, as it were, the grass up to our horses' mouths, so that iliey would nip it as we rode upon the jump.

We soon came upon the bank of Lake Winnebago, which is about fifteen miles wide and thirty long. Here we found an Indian encampment. Arndt was acquainted with them, having traded with them ; in fact, the chief knew me, having seen me in Mr. Arndt's store at Green Bay. Arndt got him to send two boys to guide us to the crossing of Fond du Lac River, where we had to put our valises and blankets on our shoulders to keep them out of the water while fording the stream, as the water was nearly over our horses' backs. A little beyond, we had no track, but met the mail-carrier from the fort, who told us that Mr. Mullett and party were on the route surveying Government land, and we would get to his tent about time to encamp for the night. Judge Doty and Lieut. Center* had surveyed the road through to the fort, but on the prairie we had no guide ; but in the timber they had blazed the trees so we could follow them. When we struck the prairies, we had to judge, as near as we could, our course, and when we reached the timber, hunt up the blazes, and then go on. At evening, we discovered some surveyor's marks, that we thought were made that day, so we hallooed, and were answered, and soon came upon their camp. We found Mr. Mullett a very gentlemanly man, who invited us to partake of his pork, bread and tea, which were their daily fare. After partaking of it, we wrapped our cloaks around us, and crawled between two blankets, and slept finely. Mr. Mullett said he had not been in from the field for three months, and had been surveying for twelve years. He was from Detroit. I should think it would kill most men to be exposed so much, for they have to wade streams and marshes sometimes up to their arm-pits.

We passed over some fine prairies. In many places they looked like cultivated fields. We would see an orchard in the distance, and before I knew it I was frequently looking for the house, not realizing there was none from fifteen to twenty miles of us. We arrived at Mr. Pauquette's farm at Belle Fountaine on the 27th, and got a fine dinner of fried venison, etc., and from here to Fort Winnebago there was a good carriage road of twelve miles. At the fort, I met Lieut. Lacey,' Quartermaster and Commissary, who received me cordially, and said he had a bed at my disposal, as his wife was absent. He accompanied me in calling upon the commanding ofiRcer, Col. Cutler,' and his lady, with whom I was acquainted. The Colonel said the store should be ready for me by the time my goods got here. I also met Lieuts. Van Cleve,^ Johnston,^ Collinsworth,' Ruggles," Hooe' and Read,^ together with Surgeon McDougall ; Capts. Low,''' Clark*" and Plympton" were absent at this time. Dr. L. Foot'' arrived in the fall. Out of thirty-six days,

J. Center, a native of New York, a cadet from 1823 to 1827, when he entered the army, serving on frontier duty, participatingln the Black Hawk war, and assigned to topographical duty from 1832 to 1836, when he resigned. He has since been much engaged as a engineer on canals and railroads; Superintendent of the overland mail route to California; President to a Maryland coal company, and of the Cumberland & Pennsylvania Railroad, retiring, in 186G, to New York City. L. C. D.

1. Edgar M. Lacey, of New York, a cadet from 1822 to 1827, when he entered the army as Second Lieutenant. He was First Lieutenant in 183.5; Captain, 1838 ; serving from 1831 to 1838 at Fort Winnebago, then at Fort Crawford, Prairie du Chicn, where he died April 2, 1839, at the age of thirty-two years. L. C. D.

2. Gol. Enos Cutler, born at Brookfield, Mass., November 1, 1781 ; graduated at Brown University at the age of nineteen ; was tutor there a year and then studied law in Cincinnati. He entered the army in 1808 as Lieutenant, promoted to a captaincy in 1810, serving through the war of 1812 as Asaistilot .Adjutant General and Assistant Inspector General. He was Major in 1814; served under Gen. Jackson in the Creek, war, and on the Seminole campaign; was made Lieutenant Colonel in 1826, and Colonel in 1836. He resigned in 1839, and died at Salem, Mass., July 14, 1860. L. C. D.

3. Horatio P. Van Cleve, of New Jersey, a cadet from 1827 to 1831, when he entered the army as Second Lieutenant, resigning in 1836, and becoming a civil engineer in Michigan. L. G. D.

4. Alexander Johnston, a native of Pennsylvania, a cadet from 1820 to 1824, when he entered the army, serving at Fort Snelling from 1825 to 1827, at Fort Crawford in 1827-28, and at Fort Winnebago from 1831 to 1835, during which he participated in the Black Hawk war, and was in the battle of Bad Axe ; Captain in 1836, and died at Pittsburgh, Penn., June 8, 184.5, at the ago of thirty-nine years. L. C. D.

5. John T. Collingsworth, of Tennessee, a cadet from 1826 to 1830, when he" entered the army, serving on the frontier, being at Fort Winnebago from 1833 to 1836, in which latter year he resigned, and became Inspector General of the Army of the Republic of Texas, and died there January 28, 1837, at the age of twenty-eight. l>. C. D.

6. Daniel Buggies, a native of Massachusetts, a cadet from 1829 to 1833, when he entered the army, serving at Fort Winnebago from 1833 to 1835, and again in 183S ; served with reputation in the Mexican War, becoming a Captain and Brevet Major and Lieutenant Colonel, resigning in 1861 and joining the Confederates, and surviving the war. L. C. D.

8. John Chester Reid, a native of Massachusetts, a cadet from 1828 to 1833, when he entered the army, serving at Fort Winnebago in 1833-34, and again in 1836-37 ; was Aid de Camp to Gen. Gaines from 1837 to 1845; served in the military occupation of Texas in 1845, and died November 17, in that year, at Wheeling, at the age of thirty-one years. L. C. D.

10. Nathan Clark, of Connecticut, entered the service in 1813; rose to the rank of Captain in 1824; he was Brevet Major in June, 1834, and died at Fort Winnebago February 18, 1830. I.. C. D.

11. Joseph Plympton was born at Sudbury, Mass., March 22, 1787 ; entered the army as a Lieutenant in January, 1812, serving with distinction on the northern frontier during the war of 1812-15 ; he was a Captain i n 1821 ; a Major in 1840 ; commanded in the attack on the Seminolea, near Dunn's Lake, Fla.. .January 25, 1842; he was Lieutenant Colonel, September, 1846, and led his regiment under Gen. Winlield Scott iu Mexico, and won brevets for gallantry at Cerro Gordo and Contreras. Ho was promoted to Colonel in 1853, and died at Staten Islanti Junes, 1800. L. C. D.

12. Lyman Foot, of Connecticut, entered the army in 1818 as a Surgeon Mate, becoming a Surgeon in 1831, and dying at Port Lavaca, Tex., October 24, 1846. I,. C. D.

the Colonel told me, they had rain, more or less, thirty-one days. I found Burley Follett, Daniel Bushnell and Satterlee Clark, Jr., in charge of the sutler's store, as agents of Oliver Newberry of Detroit, for whom they were carrying on the business. Capt. McCabe,' Postmaster and Indian agent, was living in the agency house across the river; a fine jolly man I found him.

My goods arrived on the 1st of July, six weeks from New York. How was that for speed? July 2, Capt. Low arrived at Duck Creek, four miles from the fort, with his wife and two daughters in a carriage, and sent up word for men to help them across. So the Colonel sent twenty men to help them across Duck Creek marsh, and they arrived safe at the fort. This fort was situated on a beautiful plateau forty or fifty feet above the Fox River, on the east side of it and of the portage, the river forming an oxbow around it on three sides. The grounds about the buildings embraced ten or fifteen acres, with a substantial board fence. The fort buildings were inclosed with an ornamental picket fence, in a circular form, with walks graded and kept in perfect order, together with the rest of the grounds, and altogether it was a delightful place. The portage is low ground one mile and a half across the Wisconsin River, over which they haul boats. Peter or Pierre Pauquette, a half-breed Indian trader, kept fifteen or twenty yoke of cattle to haul boats across from one river to the other, and finally had large wheels mounted, on which to convey the boats. As the American Fur Company sent all their furs from Prairie flu Chien this way to Mackinaw, thei'e were many boats that crossed the portage.

At this time, there were no white American inhabitants outside the fort, except the Indian agent, Capt. McCabe, who had a shock of palsy, and left in August, when I was appointed Postmaster in his stead, which office I held for twelve yeare. After he left, the commanding ofiicer at the fort was ordered to perform the duties of Indian agent, and after that there was no other agent at this point, except for a few months, when Thomas A. B. Boyd was stationed here as sub-agent. Col. Cutler commanded until May, 1835, when he was ordered to New York, and Maj. Nathan Clark succeeded him, who died at this post; and Maj. John Green* took the command in October, 1835, Maj. W. V. Cobbsf succeeding him in 1838, he being disabled with palsy. Capt. Low was the chief officer for a short time, when Col. Mcintosh;]; succeeded him in 1840. The garrison was reduced to one company, finally, with Lieut. F. S. Mumford§ in command, who was ordered, in 1845, to remove the property and evacuate the fort, leaving Ordnance Sergeant Van Camp in charge of the premises, who soon after died, and William Weir, who left with the last troops, returning (he having been discharged), was put in charge of the property. In 1853, Col. F. H. Marston was ordered to sell the property. He had the lands of the reserve, consisting of about four thousand acres, surveyed ofi" into forty-acre lots, and sold them at public sale. Falling into the hands of a company, they were kept out of the market for a number of years, and the buildings went into decay, and the lands ran to waste.

The fort was located there, I was told, in 1828, by Maj. David E. Twiggs, who came from Fort Howard with a command of soldiers, and lived here in tents until they could build log buildings, in which they wintered, and proceeded to erect the present buildings, into which they moved in 1830. Parties of soldiers went up the Wisconsin River, cut and floated down pine logs, out of which they cut all the lumber with whip-saws, and made shingles, timber, etc. Parties were set at work making brick near the bank of the Wisconsin, and another party sent out twelve miles, near Belle Fontaine, who made there all the lime needed. Fine gardens were made, where they raised all the vegetables necessary for the men and officers.

1. Robert A. McCabe, a native of Pennsylvania, entered the army as an Ensign in January, 1812; participated in tlie battle «f Maguago, in Michigan, after which he was promoted to a lieutenancy and to a captaincy in 1824, serving much on the Northwestern frontier. He resigned in October, le3;j. He conducted two emi;;raling parties. L. C. D.

* John Green, a native of Pennsylvania, entered tlie army in March, 1812, serving throughout the war that ensued, attaining the rank of Captain in 1814, IJrevet Major in 1824, Major in 18;j:i, Lieutenant Colonel in 1838, and dying at Tallahassee, Fla., September 21, 184(1.

f W^addy V. Cobbs, a native of Virginia, entered the army as an Ensign in 1813, rose to Captain in 1810, Major in 1838, and died at Exeter, N. H., January 1, 184S. L. C. D.

I James S. Mcintosh, born in Liberty County, Ga., June 19, 1787; entered the army in 1812; was in the affair at Sandy Creek, and wounded near Black Kook August :?, 1814 ; afterward served under Gen. -\Ddrew Jackson. He was Captain in 1817, Major in 1836, and Lieutenant Colonel in 183'.»; he served with distinction in the Mexican war, having been wounded during the battles of May 0, 184li, and was mortally wounded at the battle of Molino del Key, dying in the City of Mexico September 26 of that year. L. C. D.

^ Ferdinand S. Mumford, of New York, a cadet from 1834 to 1838; he entered the army as Second Lieutenant; he became FitBt Lisutcnant in 18.39, Captain in 1848. and resigned in August, 1849. , L. C. D.

Although I met Twiggs, I had no particuhir acquaintance with him. He was a hirge, portly, pompous man, and had the reputation of being an arbitrary, overbearing officer - as Ebenezer Childs expressed it, "A little god, who could do as he pleased, in his own estimation." Many acts of his were told in the army, sucli as horsewhipping the Surgeon, having a soldier tied up to a tree and whipped every day for some time. The same man threatened to shoot him whenever he got out of his clutches; but he never had the opportunity, Twiggs being spared to turn traitor, and surrendered his army to the Confederates in 1861.

When I arrived at the fort, the old chief De-kau-ry had his village on the west side of the Wisconsin River, about eight miles below the portage. His hair was as white as wool, and he must have been very old. He liad several brothers, but. from his looks, I should judge that he was the oldest of the family. He died soon after. His mother w.is pointed out to me some years afterward, when I was told she must be over one hundred and forty-three years old, for she recollected the massacre of the Indians at Butte des Morts, she being there at the time, which was 140 years previous ; but this, I think, must be a mistake, as I am informed that it was not so long since that massacre.* At the time I saw her, she was able to walk six or eight miles to and from the portage. She lived several years after, and finally came to her death by the burning of her wigwam.

Joseph Crelie, the father of Madam Pauquette, lived to a great age. He carried the mail on horseback to and from Green Bay, and seemed to ride a horse as well as a young man, when he was thought to be one hundred years old. He died a few years ago, when, it was said, that from the best information that could be had, he was one hundred and thirty-odd years old, though I do not think he was as old as represented.

In the fall of 1834, the Winnebago nation was assembled opposite the Fort, and received their payment from the Government, through the Quartermaster, together with a quantity of provisions. Over 3,000 men, women and children were assembled, which was quite a sight. I had a boat-load of goods started up from Green Bay, and, as it came on freezing weather, for fear it would be frozen in, I started Satterlee Clark down to put additional men on and rush the boat through. The next day, I jumped on a horse and started to meet them at Lake Puckaway. I soon found I had taken a wrong road, it being a wood-track, on which the soldiers were hauling wood ; so I took a trail and followed it for some time, but concluded it led me too much east, so I drew up and started in a northwest course, as that would bring me to the road, which I finally struck ; and, knowing there was no other wagon-road, I took it and brought up at Gleason's house, where the town of Marquette now is. Gleason was a Vermonter, having a squaw wife, and was engaged in the Indian trade. He was absent. I found Clark had stored my goods there, and gone to the Fort, so I concluded I had missed him, I having traveled through the woods until I struck the road. The next morning, I started back, and, on arriving at Pauquette's farm at Belle Fontaine, I met Clark, who said they thought at the Fort I must be lost; that Col. Cutler sent the bugler out with one man, with orders to blow the bugle and fire a gun every little distance. The Colonel, supposing I was not used to the woods, was sure I was lost. We got in all right, but the men did not put in an appeai'ance until a day < r two afterward.

During the winter, it was rather a lonely life, to be confined to the garrison, with 'no city or village within 100 miles, and not even a farmhouse to visit. But we managed to enjoy ourselves pretty well, there being ladies enough to form one cotillon, and we often met at one of the officer's quarters, and danced, there being good musicians among the soldiers.