Huntsville, Alabama - Early History of Huntsville, Alabama, 1804-1870 (part 2 of 3)

Diversified industry was not lacking; every character of enterprise from the brewing of beer, by W. M. McNeil & Co.,* to the tanning of leather, by Martin Miller, was to be found here, including Keys' & Wells' "New Boot and Shoe Manufactory,"^ and the "Huntsville Hat Manufactory," operated by R. H. Champion on Bank Row f also "Watch and Clock Making," by Thomas Cain & Co. -^ as well as the manufacture of "copper stills,"^ which, judging from the number of firms engaged therein, were in pretty general use. In addition to these industries, others, similar in nature, were operated by competitors of the firms just named. Many others of varied and different character, supplied the needs of this part of the State.

Only within the past few years - relatively speaking - have candles, as a means of lighting the home, been superseded. During these years there was great demand for them, and to supply this demand a "Candle Manufactory," was operated by I. Windham, on the lot opposite the present county jail, at the intersection of East Clinton and Green streets, on the southwest corner.^ Pumps were also manufactured here, to be used in connection with the water works ssytem already established at Huntsville.^*' Just how patrons of the water system used these pumps, the author is at a loss to explain.

These figures show an increase over the count of 1822 of 206, however, it will be found, upon reference, that the male population over twenty-one years of age, is exactly what it was in 1822, while the females of the same class are fewer by eleven, and that the increase is in the infant and colored population.

Though at this immediate period Huntsville's adult white population was of slow growth, the birth rate would appear to have been such as to gratify the most exacting. While the white population did not increase with any great rapidity, let us remember that the county was fast filling up with new comers, and becoming thickly settled in its more remote sections. The establishment by the Government of post roads, contributed in no small measure to the accomplishment of this end.

As early as 1880, provision had been made for the consumption of the cotton crop of this and adjoining counties, by the conversion of the raw product into yarn ; as appears from an interesting advertisement in the (Huntsville' Alabama Republican, of September 29, 1820, which is here copied :

"The proprietors of the Cotton Factory at Haughton's Mill, near the Three Forks of Flint River, would inform the inhabitants of Madison and adjoining counties, that they have made some additions to their machinery, and have constantly on hand an assortment of spun cotton, which they will exchange for good, clean seed cotton on accommodating terms.

The author has been unable to determine just where "near Three Forks of Flint" this factory was located ; whether on the west fork, just before it joins the north fork, or a short distance south of the confluence of these two forks. It is certain, however, that water furnished the motive power for this factory.

During the first fifteen years of this period there were erected some large factories, which turned out in quantities, far in excess of the demands of the local market, commodities necessary to the industry and life of the South.

plows was owned and operated by E. T. & R. Parker,^* This firm enjoyed an extensive business for a number of years, and supplied the trade over an extended territory.

During the later part of this period, new enterprises continued to invade the field of industry. One of these, greater in magnitude than many such which had been in operation here for years, was a coach factory, established some time prior to April, 1851.^°

The most noteworthy single industrial development of the times, was the "Bell Factory." Though cotton had, as we have seen, been converted into yam for domestic uses, not until 1832, when "Patton-Donegan & Company" was incorporated for the manufacture of cotton cloth, was the raw product converted on a large scale for commercial purposes. The company's plant was situated about ten miles northeast of Huntsville, on its own lands, very extensive in area, at what is now Bell Factory, on Flint river, a short distance south of the confluence of the three forks of Flint, at the bridges. The power used in the operation of the three thousand spindles and one hundred looms of this mill, was that furnished by damming the water of Flint, and forcing them over a wheel or turbine. Steam not being used in its operation, signals could not be given by whistle, and in lieu thereof a large bell was used ; hence the name "Bell Factory." This was the first cotton manufactory of any consequence in the South. Slave labor was used almost exclusively in its operation. In later years, economic forces, too patent and numerous to discuss here, drove this industry from its field of usefulness, and its operation was discontinued, though at the present time the old building stands.

To summarize, at the close of this period, Huntsville had three weekly papers : Southern Advocate, Huntsville Independent, and Huntsville Democrat ; four architects, twenty-four lawyers, three brick manufactories, three hotels, twelve doctors, a bank with a capital of $500,000 ; seven schools, two stage lines, two civil engineers, two saloons, one cotton and woolen manufactory, one cotton gin manufactory, one flour milV and other industries and enterprises too numerous to mention. However, these alone will suffice to show the thrift and stability of the commercial development of Huntsville.

Historic Landmarks

Much of the wealth, culture, and refinement of the times was to be found here. Expression of the aesthetic in Huntsville's domestic life was given full vent, as is mirrowed in the elegant and commodious residences erected in the early days.

Many of these edifices, the architecture of which is so striking in its grandeur and beauty, yet so appealing in its simplicity, still mark the places of their erection. We might pursue the study of this art of graceful expression which we choose to term aflFectionately, even boastingly, "Southern architecture," with some interest and much profit, but suflfice it to say, these products of that art are monuments to the skill and ability of its executors. Few parts of the State, if any, equaled Huntsville in wealth of handsome homes.

In 1815 there was erected amid a grove of splendid oaks, on the southwest side of town, on what is now Oak avenue, probably the handsomest home in the State, for a number of years. The spacious lawn in front of this elegant abode was decorated with beautiful formal gardens, and winding approaches to the entrance were hedged about with rows of dignified box. The beauty and charm of this place - known of all times as "The Grove," is still impressively evident, even to a casual observer, though time has not dealt gently with this, the habitat of the Davis family.

Almost at this same time was under construction the home of Col. Leroy Pope, which occupied the eminence of a jagged and picturesque bluflf, just north of the present intersection of Adams avenue and Williams street, now known as Pope's or Echol's Hill. The brick for the house were manufactured in Tennessee, and shipped on flat boats down the Tennessee river to Ditto's Landing, from whence they were hauled by wagon to Huntsville. As do the tropics produce a race of men diflFerent in habits of life, character and aspirations from those of a more temperate zone, so it would seem that this domicile of Leroy Pope, and later of Leroy Pope Walker, occupying as it did, the most exalted and commanding position in the town, furnishes a replica of the personalities and achievements of these two leaders of the thought and action of their times. Posterity may view with profitable concern this, the residence of the first Secretary of War of the Confederate States of America, for time has not dealt unkindly with it. He it was who issued the order to fire upon Fort Sumter in 1861.

Through these years, many other notable residences were erected, too numerous to here depict ; however, it is worthy of comment that the home of the late Col. W. W. Garth, on the east side of Franklin street, was completed in 1820, by Dr. Thomas Fearn. Contemporaneously, the Clay residence on the north side of Maiden Lane, was built. Here lived Senator Clement. Comer Clay; here also was born and reared his even more illustrious son, Clement Claiborne Clay, who became United States Senator, resigning his seat in that body to enter the same legislative council in the Confederate government.

Probably the most worthy exponent of "Southern architecture," the truest of the type produced by that noble art, is the Beirne home, on the south side of Williams street, opposite the intersection of Green street. This magnificent edifice, erected in 1837, at a cost of $33,000.00, and the expenditure of nine years of labor is, in its present wonderful state of preservation, in the opinion of many worthy critics, the most expressive exponent of the grandeur, dignity and unadorned beauty and simplicity of the times, now extant.

Next to this stately structure, which was erected by Governor Thomas Bibb, for his daughter, Mrs. James Bradley, Henry Minor had built his home on the west side thereof, upon the lot now occupied by the residence of the late Col. A. S. Fletcher. The Minor home, similar in style and character to the Beirne residence, was removed a few years ago to make place for the present beautiful modern structure.

Many beautiful homes had also been erected throughout the county. One of the earliest of these, yet well preserved, is the Robinson home on the west side of Meridian Pike, built in 1835.

Nor was the aesthetic in the civic and commercial life of the town neglected. On July 5, 1835, the erection of Madison's second temple to the Goddess of Justice was commenced, and in 1836, at a cost of $52,000.00 was completed. The graceful lines and enduring architecture of the old court house, conceived after the Parthenon at Athens, which expressed the acme of perfection attained by the ancients in this art, was a monument to the skill and ingenuity of George Steele, a local architect of no mean renown. Messrs. William Wilson and James Mitchell were the contractors. The materials for the building came from the county. The brick were made by the contractors on the lot to the rear of the present jail, while the white and blue limestone rock used in its construction were quarried from Monte Sano, and Russell's Hill, respectively.

This noble structure, upon whose bench and at whose bar had appeared many of the greatest lawyers known to the State ; and whose four walls had oft resounded with the most burning and purposeful oratory of all times, so eloquent in its pathos ; this shrine of justice upon whose alter sacrifices of injustice were offered, by an alien and unsympathetic government, during the dark days of Reconstruction, in its efforts to force the Caucasian race to pass beneath the yoke of Ethiopian supremacy, was rased on July 5, 1915, after a usefulness of seventy years.

When the first court house was torn away in 1835, the market house, which up to this time had occupied its basement, was removed to the east side of the square, where a brick structure housed it, situated somewhere upon the property where the Holding block now stands.

Some time in 1832 use of the old wooden jail was discontinued, and a new one of brick, more in keeping with the tendencies of the times, was erected, upon the site occupied by the present bastile. ,

The home of the First National Bank, so striking in its dignified simplicity, is no less a monument to the talent of George Steele, than was the old court house. This striking edifice, which lends so much of character to the community, was erected in 1836, at a cost of $76,000.00. as the abode of the Huntsville branch of the State Bank.^'' It is said to have been far and away the handsomest building in this part of the South.

Economic Status Of Slavery As An Institution

We are not interested to know the mere fact that slavery as an institution was nurtured upon our soil ; but, we are concerned with the inquiry as to the status of the same as such.

As we have previously observed, the slave population of the town and county grew with marked rapidity. This is explained by the fact that great numbers of slaves were brought into the county and sold in the open market, especially during the early part of this period. Many of these slaves had some degree of intelligence and had acquired limited manual and domestic training; many more were merely plantation hands; seldom, if ever, having come in touch with the civilizing and uplifting influences attendant upon service about the home of the master. The former class longed to return to the haunts of their childhood, and mingle again among their companions "back on the old plantation." Those of the latter class, many of whom very probably were neither born nor reared in slavery but were sold into servitude, chafed under the restrains of regular labor among companions, who in some instances could neither understand, nor be understood by them. By this time, the menace of the Indians to the fugitive slaves, was largely a thing of the past ; they having withdrawn from this part of the country, except in rare instances.

No source of information is more reliable and enlightening than records contemporaneous with the matter under consideration. None such is more comprehensive than a newspaper file of the times. It is to this latter source that the author has turned in an effort to grasp the spirit of the times and its attitude toward slavery as an institution. Throughout the first fifteen years of this period, the papers carried many advertisements for "runaway slaves," similar to the few here quoted :

Each of these advertisements and others similar thereto, was accompanied by the rude cut of a negro, male or female, as the case was, in a fleeing posture; and in some instances by more elaborate cuts depicting the fugitive with a stick across the right shoulder, on the end of which was carried a small bundle tied up in a bandana handkerchief.

The most striking feature of these advertisements is the total absence of any description of the escape, whereby he or she might be recognized. None was needed and none was given. This for the very sufficient reason that, throughout the entire South, where slavery existed, a more or less competent and comprehensive patrol system was maintained. No slave was permitted off the premises of the master, and only in rare instances out of his slave quarters, without a special permit. Free negroes were scarce, and usually well known. Hence, we see the matter of capturing a fugitive slave resolved itself into the simple office on the part of the patrol to take up any negro seen upon the highway, day or night, unattended by some person in authority. Nor was it an easy matter for a run-away to travel across country ; since, in doing so he almost invariably came in contact with some slave overseer, or owner, to whom he was unknown ; whereupon he was promptly arrested. To the escape, the difficulty in getting food was no inconsiderable obstacle. To obtain it he was almost necessarily compelled to approach some white man, or his habitation. There were few, if any, negro homes about the country. The tendency, if any there was, to assist an escape was discouraged and effectually checked by the laws of the land, which made it a crime to aid or abet a fugitive slave. These, and other statutes of a similar character, effected to make of every citizen, more or less, a member of this patrol force.

If, perchance, the slave arrested was a fugitive, he was returned to his master, who administered appropriate punishment. If not a fugitive but merely a prowler without permission, which was rarely granted, he was taken back to his quarters, where he received commensurate correction at the hands of the overseer or master. Recognition of the dangers of being caught abroad after dark, is made by the negroes themselves, in their folk songs, which contains more of melody than of sentiment ; the chorus of which is : ''Run Nigger ! Run, the Pattirol 'ill git you."

The summary manner in which the slave larcenist was dealt with, is portrayed in the following terse news item appearing in the Alabama Republican, of September 22, 1820 :

In addition to the sale of negroes brought into the county, the local market was kept pretty active through the desultory selling of slaves, in small numbers, by the citizens ; not as slave

The advertisements of slaves offered for sale go more into descriptive detail than do those offering rewards for fugitives ; at least as to the good points of the subject; as appears from the following taken from the numerous instances found in the newspapers of that day :

"For Sale/' "Two likely negro boys, from twelve to fourteen years old. Also a woman, age about thirty-five, a trusty servant, good cook, washer and ironer. For terms apply to :

By the end of 1835, conditions seem to have changed. The papers of this period rarely carried advertisements of escapes. Striking in comparison, notices of sales were likewise infrequent.

During the year of 1830, the sentiment rapidly forming at the North for the abolition of the institution of slavery, was spreading, and had become a matter of interest and concern to our people. Societies were being formed throughout the East for the promotion of the cause. Chiefest among these was the "American Colonization Society." which had many branches and auxiliaries, such as the "LaGrange Colonization Society."-^

That the East was the breeding ground for these societies and such sentiments, - laudable or otherwise, the author does not assume to judge - causes us little less surprise than does the knowledge that no such organizations became overt and no such sentiments were enunciated publicly till slavery had ceased to exist as an institution upon its own soil.

Had this movement to free slaves, the advisability of which had been up for discussion and thoughtful, even almost favorable consideration by the South's leaders in economic and political life, come from a quarter other than that from which many of the slaves they now sought to liberate had been purchased and paid for, the South, no doubt, would have been more sympathetic and less suspicious of the good faith and honest motives of those so vociferously clamoring. The ostensible and avowed purpose of all these abolition societies was to liberate slaves, not at an economic loss to the South, but gradually and systematically. Slaves so freed were to be transported to Africa, and there colonized under a government of their own establishment. Toward these ends the South was not hostile.

Strange to say, as early as 1830, Huntsville papers began the publication of matter condemnatory of slavery. True enough, editorials to this effect were rare, yet not infrequently in the news columns were to be found lengthy items anent the work of these societies. In the Southern Advocate of May 1, 1830, there appeared two ponderous articles, copied from the Washington Spectator ; one of which applauded the proposed "good work" of the American Society, stating at length its proclaimed purposes ; the other similar in its tendencies, though not so general, exclaiming praises for LaGrange, Franklin county, Ala., where a chapter of the parent society had been formed. From this day forward, articles endorsing the work of the society and lauding the movement appeared from time to time, and not infrequently in the local papers. Most of these items, however, were extracts from foreign papers.

At all events, this constant propagation of these panegj^ics had its effect, locally; for some time in 1832 an auxiliary of American Colonization Society was organized at Huntsville; the meetings being held in the Presbyterian Church. Memberships in this society were held by some of Huntsville's most prominent men ; a goodly number of her citizens were counted among its sympathizers and attended its meetings. The officers of this branch were : M. S. Watkins, president ; Thos. Fearn, W. I. Adair, A. G. Vaughan, A. F. Hopkins, vicepresidents; C. P. Clifton, secretary; John Martin, treasurer; R. L. Fearn, D. M. Wharton, E. Picket, J. G. Birney and S. D. Morgan, managers.-*

Regular orthodox "abolition" speeches were the order of the day when this society met. Its members were unstinted in their accusations against the institution of slavery, as one of "injustice and cruelty." The public expressions of E. R. Wallace and James G. Birney, were characterized by vindictive denunciation of the whole system.

Huntsville, and generally throughout the whole South. Not until it became evident that the aims of these societies were ulterior to those proclaimed for them, did this attitude change. This difference in sentiment was brought about by a realization of the fact that the paramount object of these societies was not the colonization of the slave, but his liberation by force, by aiding him to escape or inciting him to rebellion. The social, economic and political status of the South was thus menaced with the rude ignorance of a race of servitors, who had never invented any effectual weapons of defense or destruction, and then, seemed so incapable of comprehending any extensive plans of government. Probably, this altered condition of the public thought was aroused by the approach of the threatening storm at an earlier date in Huntsville than anywhere else in the South. For the reason that the usual placid condition of the South generally was being irritated to an unprecedented degree, just at this time, by the attitude at the North toward the Nullification Acts passed by South Carolina. Not that the South applauded the stand taken by Carolina, but because of the fact that the tendencies of the discussions indulged in the East and North, questioning, by innuendo, at least, the sacred doctrine of States rights, seemed to presage a conflict that would ultimately involve state as against national sovereignty, thereby, incidentally, threatening the institution of slavery. In addition to this, a more local cause was to be found at Huntsville, in the person of James G. Birney, the arch "agitator" and uncompromising "dictator" of the whole wretched business. Birney later became the first candidate for the presidency of the United States on the abolition ticket.

The caldron having begun to boil, editorials in answer to abolition speeches made in Alabama and elsewhere, were not infrequently seen in the papers. Many and heated were the discussions in the press as to South Carolina and her Nullification Acts. These, as a general thing, were condemnatory of Carolina's proposed action. At first, the almost universally outspoken sentiment in Huntsville and other North Alabama towns, as expressed by resolutions passed at mass meetings held for the purpose, was :

"Condemning the action of South Carolina and pledging themselves for the support of the Union." Later, when it became manifest that the North, as a political section of the country, had neither respect nor regard for the obligations of constitutional government, the very foundation stone of which, as it then existed, was state sovereignity, and even less of a sympathetic understanding of the South's economic status, this accusing of South CaroHna gave place to a feeling of sympathetic toleration.

In 1833, locally, at least, this manifestation of public concern reached the height of its intensity ; due in no small measure to the pernicious activities of Mr. Birney.

By this time, he had become an out-and-out advocate of the total and immediate abolition of slavery, and his public expressions would indicate a desire on his part to "out-Herod Herod." Having already responded with alacrity, to the Macedonian call, by accepting a commission from the American Colonization Society as its "General Agent for the States of Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and Arkansas Territory." He dallied, however, sufficiently long to reweld the shackles upon his numerous slaves, by selling them into continued servitude.

On May 21, 1833, he commenced the publication of a series of fifteen letters to the public, through the columns of the Southern Advocate, for the avowed purpose of "explaining the aims and intentions of the American Colonization Society."

The "African Repository," the official journal of the society, records and makes mention of only seven of these letters. This same mistake is made by the narrator of "The Life and Times of James G. Birney." However, it has been the author's good fortune to unearth the remaining eight, from among the files of the (Huntsville) Southern Advocate of 1833. It is to these latter letters, that the future student of history must and will turn with an acute interest, in order that the "Life and Times of James G. Birney" may be understood and interpreted amid the proper lights and shadows. The known existence of these other letters is of more than ordinary concern to Huntsville ; for thereby she is furnished unimpeachable evidence with which to combat the maligning statements made about her and her people in that colossal misrepresentation of fact, "The Life and Times of James G. Birney." To one who has searched the files of all of Huntsvillc's newspapers of those times, and found account of only one "drinking and shooting brawl," or chronicle of murderous or disorderly conduct, (not to mention having read all and particularly the fifteenth of Birney 's letters, which latter one is unmistakable in its admissions), it comes as a great surprise that the son of this man, in writing of his "Life and Times," should seek to create the belief that his father left Huntsville because moral conditions were so

Just why the American Colonization Society, recorded in its circulating medium the "African Repository," but the first seven of these letters of its general agent, for whom the highest regard was held at the North, is unexplained ; unless it be that the latter eight, hurling venom-coated invectives, with unabashed spleen at the entire South and her institutions, revealed all too clearly and with embarrassing and damning frankness, the true sentiments it vouched for, and the doubtful sincerity of its avowed purposes. At all events, these letters were evidently suppressed by the society itself in advance of the suppression of their continued publication at Huntsville, of which, more later.

The first of these letters appearing, as we have observed, on the 21st day of May, 1833, was mild and gentle in its approach to the subject discussed, and was little more than an introduction of those to follow. The second informed the public that the "Society seeks support by the exhibition of facts through the press, auxiliary societies, and authorized agents," that unanimity was not to be expected, suggesting the temper with which the investigation should be conducted. "Objection in the South that the colonization plan originated in the free states," "Sentiment of distinguished gentlemen at the North," "Objects of the abolitionists examined," were the subjects considered in the third, fourth and fifth installments, respectively; while the sixth and seventh were continuations of the fifth ; the remaining eight, by degrees contained more of bile and less of balm. Their author finally dealt rudely and not impersonally with the South and its institutions, until the fifteenth was reached on August 20, 1833. In this he reveals that he had many more such to publish, but at the request of Huntsville's citizens he would discontinue the discussion ; closing with the expressions of regret that this course had become necessary.

Mr. Birney was one of Madison's representatives in the first State Legislature, which met here ; and from time to time had been honored with positions of trust and confidence by her people, who had both respect and regard for him.

But this prophet Birney, for he was "not without honor save in his own country ;" this Joshua, who, thought to "teach the planets in what orbs to run, reform old time, and regulate the sun," by his letters, conduct and public utterances, produced a revulsion of sentiment among his former friends and adherents.

Now, they no longer gave heed to him. This "abolitionist" and "dictator," who, under the pretense of "Colonizing the free people of color of our country upon the continent of Africa; ("the plan to embrace those who are now free, their descendants and such slaves as may hereafter be manumitted voluntarily by their owners, or, in accordance with the laws of any of the states" ),^^ had gained the sympathetic assistance of Huntsville's citizens. Birney, having become generally obnoxious, hied himself to more congenial climes - by invitation. "Wisely he sought some other shore, where those who knew him less might praise him more." Accordingly, in the early part of 1834 Mr. Birney took his departure for the North, where he became a leader of thought and action concerning the abolition of slavery. While a resident of Huntsville, Mr. Birney occupied the brick house, now the home of Hon. Ben. P. Hunt, situated on the north side of East Holmes street, opposite its intersection with North Lincoln street.

With the going of Birney, the last of the disturbing influences was removed, for by this time the Nullification Acts of South Carolina had ceased to occupy the public mind. Undivided attention was again turned to internal and commercial improvement and development.

During the remainder of this period, advertisements for escapes and sales of slaves were conspicuous by their absence ; though from time to time discussions of slavery appeared in the local press.

This tranquillity of the public mind remained undisturbed until about 1851, when we again find the South's attention immersed in a more pressing consideration of the subject. In the columns of the press frequent editorials were to be found, condemning "abolitionists" and "disunionists," advising the one to "keep their head," and the other to "keep their eye."-* Many editorials discussed and attempted to define the causes tending to promote "disunion." The outspoken sentiment of the times was of the deepest and bitterest reproach for both.

About August G, 1851,-^ under authority of law, an election was held, to ascertain the sentiment of the county toward "Secessionists, agitators and dictators," which resulted in an overwhelming denunciation of all. At this same election the proposition of increasing the public subscription to the further development of the Memphis and Charleston Railroad, was submitted, as aforesaid.

The attitude of the North toward South Carolina revitalized and became again an acute irritant. The people throughout this section pitied but did not approve South Carolina's stand. Pointed editorials were written censuring the North for its treatment of her.

The scope of this work is far too limited to attempt anyfurther or more detailed analysis of this subject generally, upon which many volumes have been written and many more might well be written, but suffice it to say, from this time forward history, locally, is largely the same as that of the South generally.

Transportation

Being settled before the day of railroads, Huntsville and Madison county, likewise had recourse to the rivers and larger streams, with which this territory is so abundantly supplied, for commercial intercourse with the outside world. Almost contemporaneously with the production of cotton in the county, Flint and Paint Rock rivers were used to transport this commodity to the New Orleans market.

Flat boats or barges were loaded with cotton and floated down these streams to the Tennessee river, and there reloaded on to larger boats, which proceeded to New Orleans. Often times these river barges, when discharged of their cargoes, were reloaded with provisions and supplies for the settlement, and then poled or pushed back up Flint and Paint Rock rivers to the starting point.

Those sections of the county not contiguous to either of these streams, hauled cotton by wagon to Ditto's Landing and Triana, upon the banks of the Tennessee, where it was stored on large flat boats to await the coming of the freshets, usually in the spring. It was necessary to hold the cargoes till the river rose, in order that the boats might be floated over Muscle Shoals. Pilots were taken on at Ditto's Landing or Decatur, and remained with the crew till the rough waters at the shoals had been passed. For which services they usually received from $175.00 to $200.00. After crossing the shoals, these river navigators would leave the boat to proceed on its trip to New Orleans, and walk back to the shipping point, from whence they had embarked. Usually two trips a year were made by each pilot. The expense to the freighter of transporting to market a cargo of cotton, consisting usually of four hundred bales, was approximately $600.00. The carriage charge to the shipper was from $4.00 to $5.00 per bale, and he assumed all risks of loss by water. This river navigation furnished the only means of transportation until the coming of the railroads to this section many years later. These were the boom days for Triana. Many cotton freighters maintained offices there. Judging from the many firms engaged in this business, competition was very keen. Nor was the local market alone, relied on to supply the freight, as appears from some of the advertisements in the local papers of that day, for instance :

"Lyn, Parker, Real & Hardie will ship cotton from any point on the Tennessee river, provided the cotton is there for the first rise in water."^^

All such notices were published in connection with the cut of a somewhat pretentious steamboat loaded with cotton. However, cotton was not represented by bales of the present type, but by great oblong bags such as are now used for uncarded wool.

"All roads lead to Rome." This was equally true as to the Tennessee river. So, also, many roads tapped Flint river. These were the days when transportation by rail was not dreamed of; when navigable streams in proximity to a town gave it supremacy, and lasting supremacy, as then thought, over all other towns not so situated.

The feverish speculation in land having subsided, there followed naturally in its wake development of the county's resources, and internal improvements. Great was this activity. By 1828 the county had become a perfect network of roads, connecting on all sides with those from other sections of this and the adjoining State of Tennessee. This would seem to indicate that its citizens fully appreciated the commercial supremacy Huntsville was surely destined to exercise, by virtue of its nearness to the river; not to mention the certainty of transportation on the Big Spring Canal ; and to this end had made ready. Nor were all these highways unimproved. Many of them were "toll or turn-pike," built by stock companies, chartered by the Legislature. Notices similar to the one here set out, were published in the papers not infrequently :

"I shall petition the next Legislature for leave to make a turn-pike road from Huntsville to Beaver-dam Fork of Flint on the Meridian road, and to receive a toll that shall be a fair compensation for my expense and labor. J. Renn,"^"

Though the author has been unable to locate a plat of the town as originally laid out, there is of record in the office of the probate judge of Madison county, in deed book "K," page 129, a sketch of the "prison limits" of Huntsville, prepared in 1836. This drawing furnishes a reasonably good map of the road system leading into the town, and is inserted for that reason. See following page.

Leading thoroughfares were from time to time designated by the Federal Postoffice Department, as post roads or mail routes, and by virtue of such selection became the main highways between the "great centers of population."

The earliest establishment of any comprehensive system of these post roads leading to and from Huntsville as a center, was on July 16, 1822, when R. J. Meigs, Jr., Postmaster General, issued an order creating the following routes :

304. From Huntsville to Triana, Mooresville, Cottonport, Melton's Bluff, or Marethon and Courtland to Russellville, three times a week, seventy-seven miles. Leaves Huntsville every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at one P. M., and arrives at Russellville on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at eleven A. M. ; and vice versa from Russellville to Huntsville.^^

305. Leaves Columbus Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at one P. M., and arrives at Huntsville, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 11 A. M.^^

Huntsville. Alabama

By the end of 1825 Blount Springs - famous as a resort imtil a few years ago - had become very popular with the leaders in the social life of Huntsville. To meet the increasing demands, a weekly stage was run between the two places by L. Morgan & Sons.^''

Travel in these early days was either by horseback or stage. Hotels or inns generally were provided with stage coaches or hacks, for the convenience of their guests and the public at large. Much publicity was given through the press, of the possession of such coaches, for instance :

The Tennessee river having become the main artery of commerce and travel ; in recognition of the growing needs of the times, the Government established another mail route, advertised as follows :

"From Eastwood via Huntsville to Tuscumbia and South Port, three times a week. This line is to accommodate steamboat passengers at South Port and Florence. Fare from Huntsville to South Port, $6.00 or 8c per mile.

After the completion of the Decatur-Tuscumbia Railroad, operation of which was commenced about December 30, 1834, a stage line was established from Huntsville to the river at Decatur. After crossing by ferry boat the train could be taken.*«

Canal Building

The enterprise of the inhabitants of the town and county was not wholly consumed with this business of establishing highways ; for the citizens of Huntsville were concerned about providing the community with navigation at its very door, thereby fixing beyond all cavil, its enduring commercial supremacy. The newspapers of that day display the monumental effort to "bring the mountain to Mohammed," to bring the Tennessee river commerce to her gates. Confidence in the success of the lock and dam project of the Indian Creek Navigation Company was not confined to a few but was shared by all alike. Many were the wealthy and prominent men who showed "their faith by their works," giving liberally of their time and means. Chiefest among these was Dr. Thomas Fearn, some of whose worthy descendants yet live in Madison county. To his indefatigable energies was mainly due the realization of this dream. In latter years it was known as "Fearn Canal."

The plan was to render navigable by a series of locks and dams, the Big Spring branch or creek to its confluence with Price's Fork of Indian creek, and the latter stream, from that point to where it flows into the Tennessee river at Triana. The first positive action toward the attainment of this end was taken when, on December 21, 1820, "Indian Creek Navigation Company" was chartered by act of the Legislature,*^ with Leroy Pope, Thomas Fearn, Stephen S. Ewing, Henry Cook and Samuel Hazard, as commissioners to open books for subscription to stock in the corporation. Section seven of this act further provided : "That said corporation should have power and authority to open and improve the navigation of Indian creek, in Madison county, from the spring at Huntsville to the town of Triana, at the mouth of said creek, by removing the obstructions therein, opening canal or canals, or such other mode or way as they may deem expedient." To this end powers of eminent domain were conferred upon the company. The charges to be made were regulated by section 11, which declared "that whenever said creek should be rendered navigable for boats drawing ten inches of water, and so long as said creek shall be left thus navigable, it shall be lawful for said corporation to demand and receive toll on all boats navigating the same between said towns of Huntsville and Triana, at the following rates : Two dollars for every ton of freight which said boat carries, provided that toll shall not be collected on boats running between Front's Mill and Triana."

The company had no "authorized capital ;" the only limitation upon its right to issue stock was that it should be "in shares of fifty dollars each." The right to increase the capital stock, existing at any time, appears to have remained with the directors, five in number ; of whom one was to be president of the Company. However, the act did provide "that as soon as the sum of $10,000.00 shall have been subscribed, notice thereof shall be given by the commissioners," named heretofore ; after which the subscribers were to proceed to the details of organization.

Legislative sanction having been obtained, pursuant to the mandates of the charter, on March 30, 1821, notice was given in the (Huntsville) Alabama Republican that, "The Indian Creek Navigation Company will sell stock at the Planters' & Merchants' Bank."

The matter of financing the enterprise, appears to have resolved itself into the mere detail of offering the investing public an opportunity of subscribing for stock, as a meeting was held on Wednesday, the 16th day of April, 1831, at which directors of the company were elected. *-

Work of Construction was commenced without delay, and pressed with all due haste. Promising indeed, must have seemed the future, and general was the satisfaction when it became known that the "work of the Indian Creek Navigation Company is progressing rapidly and the canal will be ready for use next season. The company reckoned without its host, for during the next year public announcement was made that "Dr. Thomas Fearn, President, is receiving bids for the unfinished half."** The work of completing the canal extended over

During the next few years the doubtful success of the plan, even ultimately, is reflected in the general lack of interest in the progress of the work. From all accounts it seems to have been deserted by all its friends, except Thomas and George Feam, who remained steadfast in their fidelity to the original purpose until their efforts were crowned with a laudable success.

Five years later, in 1827, though not perfected, freight was being transported through the canal, as appears from the following advertisement in the (Huntsville) Southern Advocate, of January 27, 1827:

"The Indian Creek Navigation Company is prepared to ship cotton to the Tennessee river. It is not completely finished, but will admit the passage of boats."

It is not unlikely that further development of the project would have been suspended at this point, but for the fact that a strong public sentiment favored the plan now being urged, to render the Tennessee navigable for large steamers, and all signs of the times seemed to insure success for the undertaking. At all events, work on the canal, which had by now come to be known as "Fearn's Canal," was continued by slow stages unto its complete and final perfection in 1831. Great was the celebration of this consummation so devoutly to be wished. On Tuesday, the 5th of April, 1831, intense excitement prevailed throughout the community. This epoch-marking event, greeted by assembled hosts, was embellished by the picturesque exhibition of two keel boats gliding up the canal and landing at the wharfs by the head of the Big Spring, where the cargo of supplies was discharged from one of them which had come from the river. These boats had a capacity of eighty to one hundred bales of cotton and fifty passengers. Loaded to "the guards," one of these pioneers proceeded on its return trip to the Tennessee, passing all locks, both coming and going, safely."

Public approval of the industry of the Fearns was unstinted ; their energies were rewarded and their success applauded by the general demand for an even more elaborate canal.

now interested itself in a plan to provide for the passage of large river steamers through the canal. Frequent and lengthy were the newspaper discussions of this form of waterway. Again, the Fearns were neither timid nor tardy in action, and the (Huntsville) Southern Advocate of July 7th, 1835, carries the following notice :

"On the 20th of July books will be opened by the Huntsville Canal ; to render the stream navigable for large boats, at a cost of $150,000.00. Thos. and George Fearn."

What the success of this venture was, the author is unable to state, due to a total lack of information, which diligent effort did not render available. However, the tradition, that, this effort was not a success is no doubt well founded. For it would seem evident that so pretentious a canal as contemplated would have left enduring signs of its accomplishment. None exist, even in the memory of the "oldest inhabitant."

Suffice it to say that progress, if any there was, with the plan for this "Huntsville Canal," was made between the years of 1837-1844; for after this date no mention whatever of the same is to be found in the local papers. The history of this project, as recorded by contemporaneous narrators, must needs remain unwritten, as there is a break in the files of the local papers of this time from the year 1837 to 1844. It is a perplexing inquiry, just why these contemporaneous sources of information should be missing ; for it is said the same hiatus exists in a measure throughout Alabama. Another cogent bit of reasoning sustaining the belief that this canal never materialized, is, that during the year 1834, agitation of railroads as a means of transportation had become general and earnest in the local papers ; and a respectable concern was manifest in a plan to build a railroad from Huntsville to Whitesburg. This no doubt would have scarcely received consideration had there been in operation an adequate canal to Triana.

Though "Fearn's Canal" is the only one which rendered service and achieved prominence, another such scheme to render Flint river navigable was undertaken, and a charter obtained from the Legislature. On December 20, 1820, one day before the Indian Creek Navigation Company was formed, it was provided by enactment "That Fleming Jordan, George Taylor, James McCortney, John Sprowl, Stephen Pond, John P. Brown, John Grayson, Dial Perry, David Walker, Ebenezer Bryan, Stephen McBroom, William Derrick and David Cobb, and such other persons as shall be associated with them, are hereby constituted and declared a body corporate, under the name and style of 'The Flint River Navigation Company,' for the improvement of navigation of Flint river, in Madison county, from Captain Scott's Mills (now Brownsboro), to the Tennessee river."**'

A chronicle of the times vouches for the statement that this company received liberal appropriations from the General Government, to aid its works ; but ill fate attended the first efforts put forth so that the plan never matured.

Large trees grew in profusion on the banks of this stream. It was thought advisable to remove all growth and timber from near the water's edge ; thereby preventing any possible hindrance to navigation, resulting from the falling of these trees into the water. So, accordingly, the company set about clearing the banks ; felling those trees into the stream, with the fallacious hope that the force of the spring freshets would wash them out of the channel into the Tennessee. It was fortune's bitter irony, however, that these spring freshets which were considered by the company to be inadequate to the task of clearing the stream of fallen trees after navigation had begun, were commensurately inadequate to this same task, before navigation was begun. So it was that the first work done was that of destruction rather than construction. History records the projected accomplishment of the Flint River Navigation Company's efforts with the ugly, yet appropriate, term "failure," spelled with a capital "F."

History of primeval man records that after the stone age came the iron age. In parity with this evolution of the human race, by ages, has the development of transportation progressed. Only in degree of intensity have they differed. The latter, when we exclude the application of steam as a motive power for crafts, not having improved over the age-old medium of intercourse, navigation of inland waters and the high seas, until the early part of the nineteenth century when the advent of railroads revolutionized the commerce of the world.

Huntsville, founded as she was, at the very threshold of this nineteenth century, has lived partly in the two distinguishing eras of advancement in methods of transportation ; in the last

Having traced, in some detail, under canal building, conditions as they existed at Huntsville during the close of that period which might be termed the navigation age, we come to consider, with some interest, and, the author regrets, less enlightenment, the steam railroad age.

The advantages to be derived from proximity to a line of this new medium of intercourse destined to broaden the horizon of life and actions of individuals and communities provoked much acrid discussion, academic in its scope, through the news and editorial columns of the local press. *'^

At Huntsville, public interest began to manifest itself when work of construction on the Decatur-Tuscumbia Railroad was begun ; and became intense after the passage of the first train over its tracks, about December 30th, 1834.*^ Almost immediately, arrangements were made to take advantage of the nearness of this road. To that end a stage line was established from Huntsville to the Tennessee river at Decatur, as before mentioned.

The public thought was first concerned about the proposed construction of ten miles of railroad from Huntsville to Ditto's Landing - Whitesburg. Though the distance to be covered is inconsiderable, such adequate transportation facilites as thus afforded, would have served the enlarged purpose of placing Huntsville on the river, as it were. However, not until 1851, was a railroad constructed through Madison county.

During this year, work of building the Huntsville and Memphis division of the Memphis & Charleston Railway was completed, having been financed by local capital. This line connected at the river with the Decatur-Tuscumbia Railroad.

In the early part of this year, it was found that the funds provided were insufficient to complete this link and an election was ordered held by the sheriff of Madison county on April 2nd, to ascertain the sentiment of the public relative to raising additional funds.*®

This election was not held in April, being deferred till the first week in August, for some reason. The results wer6 in favor of providing the necessary funds. It will be remembered, that, at this election there was also submitted the question of whether or not "Secessionists, abolitionists and dictators" were endorsed or denounced. On this proposition public opinion was little divided, and the returns declared for "denunciation of all three" in unmistakable terms.

From the editorials in the local press of that day, the inference is gleaned that one of the chief benefits likely to be derived from railroads, was the destruction of class distinction. All social barriers would be relaxed by the indiscriminate intermingling of the masses and the classes in traveling. A curious desire to see one of the trains appears to have been general and loath to await the auspicious event.

The author hazards this suggestion ; that the curiosity of the public in 1851, to see a train, would not surpass the curiosity of the public of this day, to see that individual about whom this account appeared in the (Huntsville) Southern Advocate of November 14, 1851 :

"He was peaceably proceeding along the road, when the train, unexpectedly, came into view and blew its whistle where at 'he tried to fly like a bird,' and in this futile attempt to remove himself from the path of this demon-like engine (of destruction) as he thought, fell prone across the track. After much effort he succeeded in reaching the side of the roadway, where he seized a tree with a vise-like grip and clung to it as grim death, to the entire amusement of the passengers. So great and fundamental was "the mental pain and anguish suffered by this man, as a proximate consequence of his severe fright," that this indulgence of his curious desire - though unwittingly timed - to see a train, came near entailing serious, if not permanent and fatal results."

Though a railroad had actually been constructed through the county, some conflict between this method of transportation and that offered by canal, yet lingered in the public mind. This appears from the earnestness exhibited in the local press, proclaiming the advantages of the former over the latter. In an evident effort to keep the public attention fastened on the steam railroad question, the upper left-hand corner of the front page of all papers was decorated with the cut of a clumsy

Construction of the Huntsville-Charleston division of this road proceeded with gratifying speed, having been completed some years prior to secession, and in use.

Civic And Public Institutions

Read by the light of other days, life in Huntsville, - as with the old South - was almost incredibly grand. In the then present there was little lacking to give it completeness. Those things which make for well proportioned and admirable sociological conditions in a community were abundant in Huntsville.

Things which we now term "modern conveniences" were not unknown to those times ; even ice could be had throughout the year.^^ The price of this commodity now, as compared with then, amounts to little less than a "modern inconvenience." So soon as 1833, there was a water works system. The reservoir was attached to the end of the court house. It would appear, from a reading of the newspapers of that day, that human nature, in Huntsville, at least in so far as the use of hydrants not muzzled by meters is concerned, was the same as it is today. Frequent notices are to be found in the local papers, calling attention to the constant lack of water in the reservoir, due to the fact that people who had no hydrants used those of their neighbors.^- This system seems to have been somewhat inefficient, and entirely inadequate, for by 1837, the question of a new plant was actively agitated. In an attack upon the old system, which had come into pretty general disrepute, the editor of the Southern Advocate, in its issue of May 18, 1837, delves into the secrets of the past and reveals to us some ancient history, more interesting than edifying, which leads to the conclusion that, honesty of that uncertain kind, which sometimes attends municipal contracting in our day, is not the product of this age alone. We are informed in that editorial that the people of Huntsville were dreadfully cheated by the first contract; and furthermore, the contract was never completed to supply the town, and was under the control of a plotting, scheming, company, and lastly, the people paid too much for the contract. But there is one thing with regard to these works, that must forthwith be attended to. That ill-shaped goose pen of a building attached to the end of the court house, called reservoir, is by the order of the commissioners, to be torn down and removed. The new system is under the supervision of Mr. Sam D. Morgan. A dam, engine house and machinery are to be installed and a new reservoir built, in the erection of which Mr. Morgan will liberally assist. This new system was planned by Hunter Peel and Thomas Barclay. Wooden pipes about eight feet long, made by boring a hole through the center of red cedar logs were used. These pipes were tapered at one end and hollowed at the other. Joints or connections after being made were held in place by iron hoops or bands. Sections of these old pipes are not infrequently unearthed even yet, in excavating beneath old buildings about the square.

Though the author cannot be certain, the use of wooden conduits in the second system would seem to justify the inference that such were also used with the first.

A water turbine and a nine-inch pump served to force the water into the reservoir, which had been constructed on Pope's Hill. This reservoir can yet be seen at the intersection of Williams and McClung streets.^^ It is not unlikely that this system installed in 1827, remained in use till after the war, as it was rendering satisfactory service in 1859. Fire plugs, in connection with this water system, were also installed in all parts of the town.

Despite these facilities and the good efforts of the Huntsville Fire Engine Company, which we have seen was organized in 1822, a very disastrous fire visited the town in February, 1829, laying in ashes "Bank Row" (west side of square), except one small building.^*

The following notice appearing in the Southern Advocate of January 13, 1826, suggests the manner in which the Fire Engine Company was sustained :

"Called Murting. Huntsville Fire Engine Company, to be held at the engine house. All fines and annual contributions must be paid at this meeting. F. Collender, Secretary."

Cities. In 1856 the "Huntsville Gas Light Company" was organized with a capital of $7,325.00. A plant was erected immediately near the spring, where gas, for lighting purposes, was manufactured in circular retorts from rosin. ^^

Histrionic

Life in this community, even during the first years of this period, was far from prosaic. The public were permitted the enjoyment of all forms of amusement and recreation, from balloon ascensions,^® to heavy tragedy, followed by comic farce. Approaching events were heralded in the local press, thus :

"Theatre. - The public is respectfully informed that on Saturday evening, November 4, 1820, will be presented the moral, instructive and effective Tragedy of the Gamester :

Theatrical performances closing with a one-act comic farce, appear to have been the order of the day. This theatre, owned by Messrs. Sammoner & Weekly, was destroyed by fire on Saturday night, August 5, 1821. Though the local press expressed the belief that it would not be rebuilt "any time soon" about a year later shows were advertised to be held in the theatre.

Hotel facilities were adequate and in keeping with the needs of the times. As we have observed, as early as 1803, hotels were subjected to governmental regulation. This supervision was exercised for a number of years, even to the extent of establishing the charges to be made. The law required of all "tavern keepers" that they take out a license and to furnish good, clean, wholesome diet, and lodging for travelers, and stabling, pasturage and provender for horses, for and during the time of his license." The license cost $20.00 per year. The various county courts fixed the rates. These had to be posted conspicuously. Cards published according to these

Militia

As has been mentioned, Huntsville sent four companies and Hazel Green one with General Andrew Jackson, to fight the Creek Indians, at Horse Shoe Bend. Two companies also went from here during the war of 1812. In 1819, Madison county had two regiments of infantry in her militia. These regiments held two musters a year. One commencing on the 8th of January, and the other on the 4th of July. After performing the military duties incident to the occasion, the balance of each day was devoted to recreation and sports. A chronicler of the times informs us that the greater portion of the time was consumed in political debate ; it being customary for candidates to speak on these occasions, and to provide "free whiskey" for the crowd.

Here was to be found a hospital, well equipped, under the management of Dr. L. Reimondie, established in 1851, as the "Madison Surgical and Medical Infirmary."^^

Religious And Educational

The public thought was not wholly occupied with those things and institutions which produce material development, for commensurate consideration was manifest in the maintenance of those uplifting influences which make for "richness of life" in a community.

Many of the first churches and religious societies of the State were organized here. Between the years 1818 and 1835 the Presbyterian, Methodist, Cumberland Presbyterian and Episcopal congregations had erected houses of worship at Huntsville.

Those in the community, of the Presbyterian faith, met and organized some time in 1818; and on October 13, 1822, commenced the erection of the first church of that denomination in the State. The present creditable structure, situated on the southeast corner at the intersection of Lincoln and Gates streets, was built in 1859, upon the site of the old one.*

The congregation of the First Methodist Church erected their first church building here in 1821, which was later replaced by the handsome and commodious structure now in use. This building was dedicated by the Masons on August 7, 1867.

About the year 1821 the Madison Bible Society was organized. Its membership was purposeful and energetic, and employed itself about many worthy undertakings for a long number of years. Not the least of which was its untiring eflForts to ameliorate the condition of the Confederate soldiers and their dependent families in this county. The Episcopalians in the community were slow to perfect organization ; their first meeting for this purpose being June 15, 1830, in the Presbyterian Church, which was itself even then uncompleted.

This meeting was called to order by the temporary chairman, John Brahan, with John C. Coleman acting as Secretary. Mr. McClung offered the first resolution, which was passed.

Following this, Leroy Pope moved that vestrymen and wardens be elected. Samuel Cruse then nominated the following who were elected officers of the permanent organization :

Hunter Peel, Dr. Sam Breck, Capt. WilHam Clark, General John Brahan, Leroy Pope, Jr., Ben S. Pope, Capt. William Atwood, Col. J. J. Pleasants, and Dr. R. G. Fearn."- Work of erecting a house of worship was begun without delay and completed in due season, upon the site occupied by the present building, at the intersection of Green and Eustis streets, on the southwest corner. The present graceful structure, so unique and pleasing in interior arrangement, was erected in 1858.

The Missionary Baptists were probably the first to organize and build a church in the county ; which was done as early as 1808, out in the neighborhood of Briar Fork of Flint. This church was named Enon. The greater portion of the congregation having moved to Huntsville during the first years of the war, this church was officially moved from the country to town. In 1861 a house of worship was erected upon the northwest corner at the intersection of West Clinton and Spring streets. This building has in later years been removed to give place to the present modern edifice. "Enon" was the first church established in the State by the Missionary Baptists.

In 1825 those of the Cumberland Presbyterian faith organized at Huntsville, under the leadership of Rev. Robert Donnell. The first house of worship was erected in 1828 - somewhere - on Green street. The second church building was erected in 1845 upon the site of the present attractive structure on the southeast corner at the intersection of Randolph and Lincoln streets. This Rev. Donnell, the founder of the Cumberland Church at Huntsville, was an eminent divine of great renown. He, with two other associates - about 1809 - established the Cumberland Presbyterian Church in America.

Educational facilities in those early days, afforded by the numerous schools of the town, were immeasurably superior to those of the present times. It can scarcely be expected that a visitor within our gates at this day would express himself as did one in 1837, who on writing to a friend in the North said : "Huntsville will in the future rival any city in the North, and at present it is the most prosperous and progressive city its size in the United States, and exceeds any other town its size in the nature and character of its literary institutions. Green Academy is the equal of any Western school.""^ In addition to Green Academy there were numerous private "grammar schools" of known worth and character. The "Huntsville Military Scientific and Classical School" was opened Monday, the 8nd of January, 1832, under the supervision of Messrs. B. S. Lowe and M. R. Dudley, as Rectors.*"'^ Institutions for the primary and higher education of females were equally numerous and fully as efficient as those provided for the males.

The first of this latter class of institutions of consequence, to be established in the county, was the "Female Boarding School," conducted by J. P. Horton ; nine miles northwest of Huntsville.''^ Later, it consolidated with the "Pleasant Grove Academy," in 1822, which continued under the superintendence of Mr. Horton. ''*' During this same year C. White established his "Female Boarding School" near Huntsville."'^

The "Huntsville Female Academy," later known as the "Huntsville Private Female Academy," a very superior institution, was opened in 1826, by Mr. and Mrs. DeVendal, both people of culture and scholarly attainments.*'^

During the year 1831, competent female colleges were established here, whose period of usefulness extended even into the very last years of that century.

Almost contemporaneous with the opening of this academy on January 5, 1831, the "Huntsville Seminary," under the auspices of the Presbyterian Church, was inaugurated.

Little did the founders of these two great, and, in after years, justly famous colleges, realize that both were to exert a profound influence throughout the whole South for generations to come.

It is said that a man is known by the company he keeps, and so it is we can judge of the breadth of life in a community by the newspapers it supports.

We have heretofore observed that as early as 1812 the Madison Gazette was published at Huntsville, and that it merged on September 7, 1816, and thereafter was published as the "Alabama Republican."

During the first years of this period, particularly, Huntsville was the center of all State activity ; on account of which the local papers enjoyed an extended circulation. The enlarged field made it possible for many papers to thrive here.

The first issue of the "Huntsville Enquirer" appeared on February 1, 1822. This sheet was edited by Richard Benjamin Brickell, and was the eleventh paper then published in the entire State.''^

The 'Planters' Magazine," a monthly periodical, was published at Huntsville by the editors of the "Alabama Republican," Messrs. Boardman and Adams ; the subscription rate being $2.00 per year. The first issue appeared January 1, 1822."

The conjecture is indulged that sometime prior to 1825, the "Alabamian" was published here; this, for the reason that the first issue of the "Southern Advocate and Huntsville Advertiser," later known as the "Southern Advocate," which was formed from a merger of the "Alabama Republican" and the "Alabamian," appeared on May 6, 1825. It was published by D. Farris & Company, and cost $3.00 a year.''* The "Hunts- ville Democrat" was established October 18, 1823, by Philip Woodson.'^^ Mr. Flemming, in his monumental work, "Civil War and Reconstruction in Alabama," makes the assertion that the Democrat was an "emancipation newspaper,"'* edited by James G. Birney. The author feels constrained to say, in this, Mr. Flemming is doubtless mistaken. This inference is supported by the circumstances attending Mr. Birney's evolution into an abolitionist, which have been heretofore noted.

Abolition principles were first espoused by Birney about 1830, and three years later, when he sought to give public expression to his views, he used the columns of the Southern Advocate and not the Democrat. Lastly, it is hardly probable, that, had the Democrat been the advocate of such heresy, it would have endured the assaults of time produced by radical political and economic changes, even unto the present day. In 1859 this paper came into the hands of J. Withers Clay, and remained under that safe and sane management till his death ; since which time it has been edited by some member of that justly distinguished family ; and is today the only newspaper published in the State by a woman.

Yet another paper was published here, about this time; the "Southern Mercury;" the first issue of which appeared July 1, 1833, edited by Messrs. John J. Coleman and Geo. W. Noble." All of these papers were weeklies, each appearing as a general thing on a difiFerent day. They were liberal in policy. Though difiPering in politics somewhat, all espoused those principles which made for a strong South, economically and politically. The editorials were uniformly ponderous, heavy of words, yet lean of pith and without drive.

The splendid state of physical preservation of even the earliest of these newspapers attests the good quality of ink used and the excellency of the clear, white paper upon which they were printed.

Toward the latter part of this period another paper, the "Huntsville Independent," was edited and published at Huntsville by Messrs. J. J. Dew and J. W. Young. The first issue appeared December 1st, 1855.'^^

Makers Of National, State And Local History

To one not conversant with the history of Huntsville and her citizens, this caption might seem somewhat boastful if not humorous. It has been well said, that, the history of Huntsville in early years, is the history of the State. To this might be added, and of the nation ; for, in truth, no other community founded in the nineteenth century has, through her worthy citizenship contributed more to the life of the nation, or been more prominent in national and State affairs than Huntsville. It is no idle protest to repeat what has been said herein ; that, those names which form the very pillars of history's arc and thatch its roof, are intimate to Huntsville. Hers is the honor and unique distinction of having furnished the nation with eight United States Senators, (being without representation in that body but for six years, 1843-49, from the admission of Alabama into the Union till the resignation of Hon. Clement Claiborne Clay in 1861, upon the secession of the State. The first congressman from this State hailed from Huntsville, and in after years many others ; seven governors, an associate justice of the United States Supreme Court, and one other who declined a like commission when tendered him ; many justly famous jurists of our State courts, both appellate and nisi prius ; two senators in the Confederate States Congress ; the first Secretary of War of the Confederacy ; a candidate for presidency of the United States on the abolition ticket in 1840, and again in 1844 ; a distinction not then boasted no doubt. Lastly, it is her humiliation to have been the home of probably more than her share of traitors to the Confederate cause. Nor did all this ilk come from the rank and file of the men who wore the gray, but in large proportion from those high up in the counsels of the Confederacy.

Neither the time at hand nor the scope of this work will permit of more than a brief mention of some of Huntsville's justly famous and worthy sons. Not alone did Huntsville contribute to the political growth of the nation, but her professional men through their great skill and learning swayed the nation. Among these latter was Dr. Thomas Fearn, of whom we have already heard much. He was probably the most eminent physician in the whole South. His article upon "The Use of Quinine" excited the interest of the entire medical world, and exerted a profound influence, even to the extent of revolutionizing the treatment of fever. The name of this great man is not unfamiliar to us of the present, for of his descendants, in the Fearns, and the Garths, we have hving representatives in the community.

The recognized leader of the Whig party in the State, Arthur F. Hopkins, lived here. A jurist of no mean ability, he served as circuit court judge and later as associate justice of the State Supreme Court. Other prominent jurists of those times living here were : W. I. Adair, sometime speaker of the Alabama lower house, and later circuit judge ; Henry Minor, who became judge of the Circuit Court and afterwards reporter of the Alabama Supreme Court ; J. M. Taylor, who followed him as judge, and finally was elected associate justice of the State Supreme Court.

The high esteem in which Lemuel Mead and Samuel Chapman were held by the people of this county, is attested by the terms of office vouchsafed to them. The former of whom was elected clerk of the circuit court in 1819 and served till 1835, while the latter presided over the county court from 1820 to 1834. The last judge of this court was Edward Chambers Betts, grandfather of the author ; a scholarly gentleman of distinguished literary and judicial attainments. He served several terms in the State Legislature and later as the first commissioner of agriculture of Alabama ; and to him in no small measure is due credit for the organization of that department as a potent influence in the agricultural development of the State.

For the sake of completeness, the author again introduces the name of James G. Birney ; who, as he had a positive effect upon the national thought of his period and left the impress of his efforts upon time as it passed his way, it will not be amiss to record, was the candidate of the Abolitionists for the presidency in 1840 and again in 1844.

Among those brilliant statesmen, from Huntsville, serving in the counsels of the nation as senators, were : John W. Walker, 1819-1823, president of the Constitutional Convention of the Alabama Territory ; William Kelly, 1823-1825, the first and only congressman during his term, for then it was that Alabama had two senators and but one representative at Washington ; Dr. Henry Chambers, 1825-182() (uncleof the author's paternal grandfather), was one of Madison's delegates in the Constitutional Convention ; later he represented her in the first State Legislature ; twice defeated for governor by Israel Pickens, first in 1821 and again in 1823; elected to the Senate in

1824 over William R. King, who later became vice-president of the United States under President Pierce's administration. Senator Chambers set out upon his journey to Washington by horse-back, but died while on the way, at the age of forty years, before taking his seat in the Senate. His residence yet stands at the intersection of Gates and Green streets, on the southeast corner, and is the late home of that gentle spirit and famous poetess and artist, Howard Weeden : John McKinley, 1826-1831, for a number of years judge of the United States Circuit Court, congressman, and upon death of Senator Chambers chosen to succeed him. While a member of the Senate, the Supreme Court was increased to nine, and he was commissioned by President Van Buren as associate justice during the recess of Congress, on April 27, 1837, and was re-commissioned upon confirmation by Congress, on the 25th of September that same year.''^ This position on the Supreme bench was first tendered Hon. William Smith, of Huntsville. His nomination by the President having been confirmed by the Senate, he was duly commissioned, but declined the honor. The author ventures the assertion that Mr. Smith's action is entirely unique in the history of this nation. Gabriel Moore, 1831-1837, fifth governor of Alabama, one of Madison's delegates to the Territorial Constitutional Convention, later president of State Senate, served as congressman for eight years before his election as governor. While a member of the Senate he opposed the policies of President Jackson. On this account his resignation was requested by the State Legislature. He declined to comply with the request, and at the expiration of his term, ran for congress and was defeated; Clement Comer Clay, 1837-1843, Madison's representative for two terms in the Territorial Legislature, delegate to the Constitutional Convention, resigned as circuit judge to become speaker of the State House of Representatives ; congressman from 1829 to 1832, eighth governor of Alabama, resigned from the United States Senate after four years, digested the laws of Alabama in one year, and submitted his work to the Legislature, of which his son Clement Claiborne Clay was a member; twice upon the Supreme Court bench of Alabama, settled the State debt and then retired from public life to make way for his illustrious son, who had given evidence of even greater talents. It has been said of Senator Clay that he was the greatest poHtical teacher of his times; Jere Clements, 1849-1853, author, one of Alabama's delegates to the Secession Convention, first commander of the troops of the "Republic of Alabama" with rank of Major-General ; Clement Claiborne Clay, 1853-1861, who was even more illustrious than his father. When Alabama withdrew from the Union, he resigned his seat in the Senate and became a senator in the Congress of the Confederacy. A statesman of the biggest and truest type. He was arrested along with and became a fellow prisoner of Jeflferson Davis, at Fortress Monroe, at the close of the war.

Senator Clay's wife - familiarly known in latter days as Mrs. Virginia Clay Copton, who lived here till her recent death - was the most brilliant and distinguished woman in the whole South. When asked whom he considered the greatest orator he ever heard, Father Ryan replied : "I have heard Webster, Clay, Calhoun, Everett, Choat, Gladstone, Douglass, Prentiss, Yancy, Jefferson Davis, and all of the great orators of my day ; but I tell you, the greatest of them all is Mrs. Clement C. Clay."

The talented editress of the Huntsville Democrat, Miss Susanna W. Clay, is a niece of that great man. Senator Clement Claiborne Clay, as is well known.

Thomas Bibb, second governor, as president of the State Senate, succeeded to the office upon the death of his brother, William Bibb, who was killed by a fall from his horse. As the time of his ascendency he (Thomas Bibb) had probably moved from Madison county, though for many years he was a prominent figure in the early life of the settlement. The new government at the new capital, Cahaba (the capital having been at Huntsville during his brother's term of office), was set up by him.

Hugh McVay became the ninth governor, by virtue of his presidency of the Senate, upon the election of Governor Clay as senator. He came to Madison county when it was a part of the Mississippi Territory, and was elected to the Territorial and State Legislatures eight times from the county ; became a member of the Territorial Constitutional Convention, and after the State was formed, served in its Senate twenty years. Prior to his advancement to the governor's office he had removed to Lauderdale county.

Reuben Chapman, thirteenth governor, distinguished himself by the masterly manner in which he guarded the State's financial interests attending the winding up of the State banks. He served one term in the State Senate, and was in Congress from 1835 till he was elected governor. He was defeated for re-election ; afterwards, in 1855, he was again elected to Congress. His last public service was rendered in 1863, when he became an elector for Jeflferson Davis as president of the Confederate States of America. Worthy descendants of Governor Chapman are still prominent in the life and activities of the community; foremost among them, his daughter, Mrs. Ellelee C. Humes.

John H. Winston, the fifteenth governor, was the first native born Alabamian to be elected to that office. Madison county was his birthplace in 1812. At the time of becoming governor, however, he was a resident of Sumter county. After the war he was elected to the United States Senate. He was denied the right to enter that body.

D. P. Lewis, became the twenty-third governor, and a sorry time it was for Alabama. Upon his election in 1872, Alabama once more went into the "hands of Black Man's Party." He obtained his ofifice through the grossest fraud, and held it at the point of the bayonet by the aid of Federal troops. One of Alabama's delegates to the Secession Convention, he was elected to the Provisional Congress, and in 1863 was appointed to a judgeship by the governor. This position he held for a few months, and then went over to the Federals.

In addition to Clement Claiborne Clay, Madison furnished the Confederacy with another senator, Richard W. Walker, and a member of the president's cabinet, General Leroy Pope Walker, first Secretary of War. Hon. Richard W. Walker, at the outbreak of the war, was a member of the State Supreme Court. Few of the earliest families settling here, when Alabama was a territory, have been so continuously represented throughout these one hundred years by justly illustrious and worthy sons, as has this Walker family. Each of its three generations has furnished a brilliant public servant, beginning with John Williams Walker, president of the Constitutional Convention of 1819, and first United States Senator, and continuing through Richard W. Walker, his son. Supreme Court justice and Confederate Senator, to his grandson. Richard W. Walker, Associate Justice of the State Su])reme Court, member of the Constitutional Convention of 1901, Presiding Judge Alabama Appellate

Though serving at a later day than that here dealt with, no history of the county would be complete without mention of those two distinguished educators, Dr. Carlos G. Smith, who afterwards became president of the State University, and Captain Charles O. Shepherd.

The excellent school maintained by that scholarly gentleman, Dr. Smith, was liberally patronized by this end of the State ; as was also the school of that noted and striking personality. Captain Shepherd, who left his impress upon the "seat of learning" of many of the youth of the surrounding territory.

Through these pages, little warning has been given the reader, that toward the last of this period a national crisis had been reached. The tocsin of war had been sounded. From thence forward the South was to live through ever changing conditions, even to the extent of subjugation, for in very truth it passed under the yoke. The beauty, the charm, the elegance of life at the South was to pass out. The elegance and grandeur of the Old South might have survived the rude shock of war ; but all, all, was submerged in that anguished struggle, after the war, to preserve its institutions, its people, its customs, even civilization itself, from threatened extinction.

References: - Brewer's Alabama; Northern Alabama; kindness of many older citizens ; newspaper files and clippings ; Judge Taylor's History of Madison County; Indoors and Out, May 6, 1906; Huntsville Directory, 1859; Hand Book of Alabama, Birney ; Life and Times of James G. Birney; Civil War and Reconstruction in Alabama, Fleming; The Supreme Court of the United States, Vol. I, With Biographies of the Justices, Hampton L. Carson.

Civil War And Reconstruction

HE author approaches the discussion of this phase of Huntsville's history with much trepidation and embarrassment, due to the knowledge of his own limitations. That cause for which Madison's men fought and died and her women suffered and endured, was the same for which the whole South fought, suffered and endured. No adequate understanding of the justice, the purity, the honor of that cause can be had without a knowledge of its history throughout the Confederate States of America. Wherefore, the scope of this work will extend beyond the geographic confines of Madison county. However, it is not the purpose to review in any profound sense the causes leading up to the war, nor its conduct; but merely to touch lightly upon a few potent circumstances which may aid in forming a proper understanding of the reasons for the war of secession ; or to be more exact, enable us to know and appreciate the fact that our ancestors were not "traitors," not "rebels," but patriots and heroes. It is not the purpose of this work to perpetuate or revive any spirit of bitterness toward any section of our re-united country ; for, "the bitterness and resentments of the war are past and forgotten. The glories are the common heritage of us all."

It has been said, "It is better to know less, than know so much that ain't so." This can be repeated with peculiar emphasis to the youth of the South, as he has gained his knowledge of the history of the Confederacy from the partisan historian of the North. The matters and things related in this chapter are historic and authentic. They are in the nature of those happenings which go to make up family lineage, and family history. If perchance, any of those who come to scan these pages were, or still are not in sympathy with the South in the course pursued, it is hoped they will at least appreciate the sincerity of the motives which prompt the author. The duty to teach and spread the truth is enjoined upon us all.

Nor is it the purpose of the author to attempt a vindication of the Confederate cause; time has established the honor, the justice, the right of the principles for which the South fought.

The denial at the North of the Constitutional right of a state to withdraw from the Union was the cause of the war. Slavery was the occasion, not the cause, and bore the same relation to the war as does property to robbery. The conflict, as we view it now, was inevitable, and but the logical outgrowth of the feeling and strife, which existed from the settlement of this country, between the Puritans landing at Plymouth Rock and the Cavaliers who landed in Virginia.

The right of secession, was the constitutional right guaranteed to the states forming the Union, to withdraw from the compact she had voluntarily entered into. Both the North and the South at the time of entering into the articles of confederation claimed and boldly asserted this right. The question of state sovereignity, especially the right to withdraw, was debated at the time of framing the Constitution and was decided in the affirmative. This, and not slavery, vel non, was the question submitted to the arbitrament of the sword and decided for all times. Gettysburg and Vicksburg were not forums of justice but battlefields.

From a constitutional standpoint, it is plain the South was within her rights in withdrawing from the Union. Students of history, both North and South, now admit this. This right of a sovereign state to sever its connections with the Union was first asserted by Massachusetts in 1811, when she threatened secession in order to back up her position relative to the Louisiana Purchase. From thence forward this right was boldly asserted by the other states at the North and constantly held over the head of the South as a warning, until the South sought to put it into practical eflfect and withdraw. From thence forward, as viewed at the North, this doctrine became heresy and the right of a (Southern) state to exercise it was vigorously denied and denounced. That supreme political opportunist, Daniel Webster, known at the North as "the most profound and unerring constitutional lawyer of his day, the great expounder," declared as late as 1856 that "If the South is treated as bad as she has been, she will secede. She has a constitutional right to secede, and she ought ta secede." Yet, when the South asserted this right, he traversed the country, (having first, however, changed his views, owing to the political exigencies of the times), assailing and reproaching her leaders and governments. By the magic of his words and the necromancy of his specious logic he beguiled the masses at the North into the belief that the South and its people were trait- ors to the Union. Such are the teachings the children of the South have received since the war, concerning the origin and history of the Confederacy.

The sovereignty of a state was a sacred trust to be defended and zealously guarded at all hazards by her sons. It was paramount to the preservation of the Union, and so had we been taught, even in the colleges of the land, North and South. When the North by state and municipal legislation, upheld by the courts, had repeatedly denied the constitutional rights of the Southern States. When the Missouri Compromise was held unconstitutional by the United States Supreme Court, in the Dread Scott Case, and four of the justices dissented from the opinion of Chief Justice Taney, the unyielding determination at the North to utterly disregard the guaranteed rights of the South, wreck her institutions and destroy state sovereignty, became all too evident. By the time the South seceded, all ties of friendship and kindly relation between the North and South had been severed, though there yet remained at the South some love for the Union, and a far greater respect for the rights of others as guaranteed in the Constitution. Wherein all rights not delegated to the general government nor denied the states are reserved to the latter.

The biased and purblind histories used in our public schools, teach the children of the South, that Robert E. Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and Joseph E. Johnston fought for so sordid a cause as the maintenance of slavery. Not once are we told that: Lee freed his slaves, voluntarily, long before the war ; Jackson never owned but two slaves, bought by him at the request of the slaves themselves, in order that they might be set free, which he accordingly did ; Johnston never owned a slave. Even more studiously is the fact suppressed, that the "Immortal" Ulysses S. Grant, owned many slaves, and that they were never freed by any act of his, but by the Emancipation Proclamation, and when so freed were being refugeed in Missouri to keep them out of the danger of escaping.

In a conflict, he is the aggressor who first renders the use of force necessary, and not he who strikes the first blow. So it is that the North and not the South was the aggressor, and provoked the Civil War. The construction is enforced by the conduct of the South before war actually broke out.

One of the first official actions of the Confederate States of America was to send a commission to Washington to treat with Secretary of State Seward, to the end that an amicable settle- ment might be had of all differences between the two governments, and for the evacuation of Fort Sumter. This commission was held at Washington for twenty-three days, with almost hourly promises of a considerate hearing. While thus ostensibly giving heed to the proffered negotiations of the Confederacy, a squadron of ten battleships was being made ready, and sent out from New York with instructions to take Fort Sumter, by force if necessary. This "relief squadron," bristling with guns, steamed into a Confederate port, intent upon its hostile purpose, before the Confederate commission was even aware that war was intended by the government at Washington. Not until then, did the commissioners from the Confederacy realize that Secretary Seward had diplomatically lied and misrepresented the facts to them.

This brings us to a consideration of the sentiment prevailing at the South as to its course in the near future. Probably the most eloquent and comprehensive exposition of the attitude, feeling and spirit of the South was made by that peerless statesman, Clement Claiborne Clay, in the Senate of the United States, on the eve of his resignation from that body, after his beloved state, Alabama, had withdrawn from the Union. As an introduction to that portion of this work yet to follow, the author begs leave to quote from the condensed record of this "Statement of the South's Case" :

"It has been forty-two years, he said, since Alabama had entered the Union, amidst scenes of excitement and violence caused by the hostility of the North against the institution of slavery in the South - referring to the conflict over Missouri. In the churches. Southern christians were denied communion because of what the North styled the "leprosy of slavery." In violation of the Constitution and laws Southern people were refused permission to pass through the North with their property. The South was refused a share in the lands acquired mainly by her diplomacy, blood and treasure. The South was robbed of her property, and restoration was refused. Criminals who fled North were protected and Southern men who sought to recover their slaves were murdered. Southern homes were burned and Southern families murdered. This had been endured for years, and there was no hope of better. The Republican platform was a declaration of war against the South. It was hostile to domestic peace, reproached the South as unchristian and heathenish and imputed sin and crime to that section. It was a strong incitement to insurrection, arson and murder among- the negroes. The Southern whites were denied equality with Northern whites, or even with free negroes, and were branded as an inferior race. The man nominated for president - Lincoln - disregarded the judgment of courts, the obligations of the Constitution, and of his oath by declaring his approval of any measure to prohibit slavery in the territories of the United States. The people of the North branded the people of the South as outlaws, insulted them, consigned them to the execration of posterity and to ultimate destruction.

"Is it to be expected that we will or can exercise that Godlike virtue that beareth all things, believeth all things, hopeth all things, endureth all things ; which tells us to love our enemies, and bless them that curse us? Are we expected to be denied the sensibilities, the sentiments, the passions, the reason, the instincts of men ? Have we no pride, no honor, no sense of shame, no reverence of ancestors and care for posterity, no love of home, of family, of friends? Are ye to confess baseness, discredit the fame of our sires, dishonor ourselves and degrade posterity, abandon our homes and flee the country - all - all - for the sake of the Union? Shall we live under a government administered by those who deny us justice and brand us as inferiors? Whose avowed principles and policy must destroy domestic tranquillity, imperil the lives of our wives and children, and ultimately destroy the State? The freemen of Alabama have proclaimed to the w^orld that they will not."^

Disunion Sentiment And Secession

We have observed that as early as 1854 at an election held in the county for the purpose of ascertaining public sentiment, "Disunionists and abolitionists" were strongly condemned and reproached. This spirit of forbearance toward maintaining the Union was still strongly in evidence when the future policy of the State was up for consideration in ISfil. Some of Huntsville's most prominent and respected citizens were pronounced "Union Whigs" and opposed disunion. But when the ordinances of secession were passed they cast their lot with the "Republic of Alabama," and remained throughout the war steadfast and faithful to the cause of the Confederacy.