Hilo, Hawaii - Godfrey's Handbook of Hawaii: Guide to Hilo and the Volcano

The Hawaiian Islands

To the surrounding influences of a good dinner taken in the company of the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser of the Admiralty, and Mr. Stephens, a secretary of the Admiralty Board, enjoyed beneath the hospitable roof of the Earl aforementioned, on the evening of the 6th of February, 1776, and to the enthusiastic manner in which the noble host presented the grandeur and dignity which would accrue to the successful discoverer of the long and vainly sought for northwest passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, (which w^ould open a shorter, more commodious and more profitable course of sailing to Japan and China and to the East Indies than by making the tedious circuit of Cape Horn) the grand results to navigation and science, the completion it would give to the whole system of discoveries by British navigators, to this dinner, its surroundings and the results therefrom, is due the discovery, first of the islands of Oahu, Kauai, Niihau [December-January 1777-1778] and later of the islands of Maui and Hawaii [November-January 1778-1779] by the, then practically retired, circumnavigator. Captain James Cook. Due to this dinner and the prospective grand honors, aside from a reward of ;^20,000 which an act of Parliament secured to the successful discoverer, that Captain Cook, who was then enjoying the position of Captain at Greenwich hospital, a pleasing and honorable reward which would allow him dignified repose after his toil and labors, (incurred in two successful voyages of circumnavigation and discovery) due entirely to the occasion, " fired," so says one of his historians, "with the contemplation and representation of the object, that he started up and said he would undertake the enterprise himself." This declaration was in accord with the secret wishes of his host who, losing no time, had Captain Cook appointed to command an expedition for the discovery of a northerly passage, on February 10th, 1776. The usual plan of discovery was reversed and instead of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific one trom the latter to the former was to be tried.

On his outward voyage, January, 1778, en route with his two vessels the Resolution and the Discovery the latter in command of Captain Clarke, to the northwest coast of America he discovered the islands of Oahu and Kauai and later the island of Niihau.

The expedition sailed for the north again in February 1778, and returned after an unsuccessful search for the northwest passage to the vicinity of the Islands. On the 26th of November the northwest coast of Maui was discovered probably brought to notice by the overtowering Mt. Haleakala, but was not visited, the expedition sailing on until the 30th when the island of Hawaii was discovered. Captain Cook was much impressed with the size and apparent importance of this island and spent seven weeks sailing around it. He has himself written that * ' To the want of success which attended the endeavors of getting homeward by means of a northern passage and to this disappointment we owed it to having in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands and to enrich our voyage with a discovery which though the last seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific." Little did the commander think as he concluded his journal with the above sentence that the island of

On the 19th of January, 1779, the ships cast anchor in Kealakekua bay. Here presents were interchanged, a beautiful feather cloak given b}'^ King Kalaniopuu to Captain Cook was rewarded by the * * Captain put a linen shirt on his majesty and girth his own hanger round him." On the departure of the ships they were given parcels of hand-made cloth (kapa), an immense quantity of vegetables , and fruits and a large herd of hogs. On the 9th of February the vessels sailed, but by stress of weather were compelled to again return to Kealakekua bay where they anchored on the 11th. All accounts agree that this return was not well received, a bad feeling having sprung up between the natives and the sailors by reason of the disregard paid by the foreigners to tabus and also the invasion in unwarranted manner of their heiaus, or temples.

Besides, the constant call for a large food supply was an onerous tax. Some petty thieving indulged in by the natives received condign punishment, aud the theft of a large cutter belonging to Captain Clarke's vessel, the ** Discovery,'* brought things to a climax. To recover the boat Captain Cook concluded to inveigle King Kalaniopuu on board his vessel and then retain him as a hostage. In this endeavor Captain Cook was sufficiently successful to bring the desired personage to the water side but the warlike arrangements, marines drawn up and the presence of several boats armed and equipped, caused the natives to object to the departure of the king. An old priest very vehemently objected as did the wife of the king and also several chiefs. Captain Cook was determined, bat he expostulated in vain, the king bowing his head in submission to the chiefs present, among whom Kamehameha, aftenv^ards the conqueror of the Islands, is believed to have been one, he having obtained a short time previously nine daggers for a feather cloak which he exchanged on board the "Discover>\" But to the finale; the king stayed passive, Cook remonstratiye and aggressive, the chiefs antagonistic and combative. Several of the natives were struck by a lieutenant of marines and Captain Cook himself fired a barrel of his gun, loaded with small shot, at a threatening native. He now saw, too late, that he was forced to the defensive and whatever plan he had was precipitated by the act of a native about to throw a spear whom he shot at but missed and killed another ; a sergeant of marines killing the first.

The natives, from an authorative account, now threw stones **to which the marines without orders, returned a general discharge of musketry instantly followed by a fire from the men in the boats.*' Captain Cook did not desire this action, ordered firing to cease and that the marines be taken in the pinnace.

the launch instead of coming in withdrew his boat farther off, thus removing every chance which remained of Captain Cook saving his life. The natives had rushed the marines after they had fired, killing four, the pinnace rescued* the rest. Captain Cook was left standing on a rock ; he moved towards the pinnace his left hand covering the back of his head from the stones, his musket under his right arm. A native struck him in the back of the head felling him to one hand and knee, and causing the loss of the musket.

As the Captain w^ rising another native stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger. Cook fell again and another native crowded on him endeavoring to hold his head under water, he successfully thwarted their efforts until another native gave him another blow with a club, when he fell and rose no more alive."

Thus on Sunday, February 14th, 1779, almost three years after enjoying the hospitality of his friend and patron, the Earl of Sandwich, and just one year and twenty-seven days after doing honor to that patron by the discovery and naming of the far distant " Sandwich Islands " Captain James Cook laid .down his life on the shores of Hawaii.

At Kaawaloa, Kealakekua Bay, on a plot of land* donated to the British Government by the .Princess lyikelike (mother of the late beloved Princess Kaiulani) is a concrete obelisk to the memory of the discoverer of the Hawaiian Islands. Passengers, either on business or pleasure, may visit the spot, as ample time is given, and there within the enclosed confines may read the inscription :

* *The ground enclosed is railed in an unique manner, twelve iron guns being used as pillars to support the chain fence. The guns were placed by H. B. M. Fan tome in November 1876. Plates of copper nailed to some of the trees designate visits by British war-ships from 1837 to 1888.

The song of the poet, the pen of the novelist and pencil of the artist have been ably used to portray the scenes and incidents which may be met with in the Hawaiian Islands. Although on the very verge of the tropics, their position in mid-ocean arid the prevailing trade winds ensures a climate unsurpassed by any other place on the globe. Summer here, in these balmy isles, is perpetual, but temperate, not torrid. Work may be engaged in, in the open air, the year round, and on any of the Hawaiian Islands the American or European can work, thrive and live. As for climate one may suit himself; on the island of Hawaii, the largest of the of the group, he may gaze from the lofty summits of Mauna Loa, or Mauna Kea through a blinding snow storm, upon the ripening sugar cane in the tropical valleys beneath ; comparatively easy of access either to or from. On the lands under constant cultivation meteorological records, kept for over a dozen years, shows the highest temperature at 89°, the lowest 54°, a mean of about 72° for the year. Sunstroke and hydrophobia are unknown, and it is seldom that an epidemic visits the Islands, and then only of light form, soon eradicated. Here Nature withholds Noahic cataclysms, Borean rudeness. and stays the vengful bolts of Jupiter from destruction to man. Grand, however, is the handiwork presented by Nature's God and the living volcano of Mokuaweoweo, at this writing (July 28, 1899) sending forth its burning floods of lava, and the restless Kilauea, present vivifical illustrations in aid of the arguments of Plutonists, and of the incontestable potency and infinite greatness of the Creator.

The Hawaiian group is situated in the North Pacific Ocean; the principal islands lying between the 18th and 23rd parallels of N. latitude and extending from 155° to 161° W. longitude. The group in its entirety consists of 9 inhabited and productive islands and 10 islets, uninhabited and unproductive at present, these latter being Molokini, Nihoa, Lehua, Kaula - a mere rock - Ocean, Liscansky Necker, French Frigate, Gardner - rock isles - and Palmyra.

The principal islands of the group and which are habitable and cultivable, consist of Hawaii, area 4,210 square miles ; Maui, 760 ; Oahu, 600 ; Kauai, 590 ; Molokai, 270; Lanai, 150; Niihau, 97; Kahoolawe, 63; and Lysan - a guano island - of about 1280 acres.

Hawaii is the largest island of the group and by its name the archipelago is now universally known, the title "Sandwich" being obsolete. The island is the most southern inhabited one of the group. Its central portion is in N. latitude Ifi" 30'; W. longitude 155° HO'. It is triangular in shape, is about lOOmiles long from north to south, by 75 miles broad, from east to west; has an area of 4,200 square miles, thus embracing about two-thirds of the total area of this ex-Kingdom, ex-Republic, now American annexed country. Hawaii is the latest made, of the group, and volcanic action is not yet extinct thereon. The island is grand and majestic to view, three great mountains forming the central frame, work, viz: Mauna Loa, 13.600; Manna Kea, ll^KOS; and Mauna Hualalai, 8,27-5. At the northern point are the Kohala mountains which rise to a height of 5,750 feet. Hawaii, as are all the islands of the group, is of volcanic origin, and has today, in active labor, the volcano of Mokuaweoweo on the summit of Mauna Loa and the famous Kilauea a fiery breast-piece on the same mountain. Some portions of the surface of Hawaii consist of ancient lava fields, other sections are covered, even as yet, with primeval forests. The surveys have not always been satisfactory and the Hawaiian Survey Department is now about to issue a corrected map of the island. The fertile portions are along the southern and eastern coasts, copious rains falls and the trade winds render the climate cool and bracing. Hilo, the chief city of Hawaii, is situated in the best possible place to obtain all the advantages of surrounding scenery, cultivable land and the only harbor on the island, that deep and commodious. A road encircles the island but only within certain limits can wheeled vehicles be used. Constant port to port communication exists and an excellent telephone sytem almost encircles the island. The population is scattered along the coast and in close proximity to the plantations. Grand scenery may be viewed in the Waipio and Waimanu valleys and ancient temples and hou.ses of refuge at Honaunau and Kawai-

Maui, the second island in area, is to the northwest of Hawaii. It stands second in agricultural importance, the soil being very rich and the water supply being well distributed and plentiful. In East Maui is the famous Mt. Haleakala 10,000 feet in height, from the summit of which one may look into the depths of the deepest volcanic crater in the world, having a circumference of 28 miles, a depth of 2,720 feet an area of about 16^ miles! Lahaina, the ancient capital of Hawaii is one of the ports of call of the ''Volcano" steamers. Kahului is the chief seaport and Spreckelsville, a short distance from Kahului has one of the largest sugar plantations and mills on the islands. Maui is 72 miles from Honolulu and is reached by steamers of the Wilder and the Inter-Island S. S. Companies. The population in 1896 was 17,726.

Oahu the third of the group, in size, is chief in population and commercial importance, made so by having been for years the terminus of steamers calling at the Islands. The port and city of Honolulu is situated on this island and here incomers first become acquainted with Hawaiian territory. Few but express wonderment at the scenes which present themselves to view and the business methods, finished buildings and beautifully laid out residence grounds all attract attention and favorable comment from the visitor. With the exception of cabling, all business is conducted on the same quick, sharp lines which are characteristic of the most progressive, or advanced, of American cities. An excellently arranged Opera House and a well conducted vaudeville theatre give opportunity for the presentation of "up to date" performances, while art galleries, aline reading room, library, and other adjuncts, not to omit the tri-weekly public band concerts, afford occasion to instruct, amuse and interest. Honolulu city contains the capitol building (formerly lolani Palace) the Judiciary building, Custom House, Queen's Hospital, Insane Asylum, Oahu Jail and other public buildings. A well equipped and well conducted steam railway gives visitors opportunity to in^pact the sugar plantations and the actual manufacture thereof at the Ewa Plantation one of the largest plants on the Islands. View may be had of the famous Pearl HarboV by a ride along this road as well as of banana, pine-apple, coffee, rice and taro culture. Roads, via steamer or sail, lead from

Honolulu to all the islands of the group, and to all ports in the Pacific. The population of the island of Oahu, in 1896 was 40,205; of Honolulu, alone, 30,000.

Kauai the *' garden island** of the group is a land full of interest to the sightseer. It is about 120 miles from Honolulu and may be reached by steamers of the Inter-Island S. S. Co. The island had a population in 1896 of 15,228.

MoLOKAi "the land of precipices" as the Hawaiians call it, lies east from Oahu about 50 miles distant. Steamers of the Wilder S. S. Co. call there. Kaunakakai is the chief landing-place, and from there view may be had of many sugar plantations and the lofty mountain ridges which form the outer walls of the * ' house of detention ' ' for the * * wards of the nation, * ' the Leper Settlement. Steamers from San Francisco pass close to this island on approaching Honolulu. The population in 1896 was 2,807.

IvANAi is about 58 miles from Honolulu. The principal industry has been sheep-raising but of late a movement was made to produce sugar. The population in 1896 was less than 150.

NiiHAU distant about 135 miles from Honoiulu is held under lease by private parties engaged in sheepraising. Here may be seen more of the primitive manners of the Hawaiian than on any other island of the group. The island may be visited by means of the Inter-Island S. S. Co.'s steamers. The population in 1896 was 164.

Lays AN, a guano island, is under lease to the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co. and voyage thither is obtainable only by permission from that corporation. The island is about 3 miles long by 1^ -miles wide and the population consists simply of the workmen employed by the company.

Head Office, Yokohama

The General Post Office is on the corner of Bethel and Merchant Streets, Honolulu, is open for business daily from 8 a. m. till 4 p. m. Sunday the Office is open from 7 to 8 a. m. for delivery of mails and at such hours as may be necessary for the delivery or dispatching of foreign mails. Saturday the office closes at 1 p. m. On the arrival or departure of a foreign mail steamer the General Delivery re-opens from 4 to 5 p. m. All post-offices are closed on the arrival of every foreign mail long enough to assort and distribute the letters only.

The money-order office, postal-savings bank, parcels-post and registered letter office are on the second floor of the General Post Office building.

The sending of coins, jewelry, gold or silver in any form by domestic or foreign mail is prohibited. The risk is wholly on the sender. Articles which are prohibited in American and Pvuropean mails will not be received for transmission.

description should be addressed to the Postmaster General, Honolulu. Losses or irregularities should be reported promptly. Any complaint about overcharge, delay or missent correspondence must be accompanied with the enveloj)e or cover of the correspondence referred to, together with all particulars, or no notice will be taken of the complaint.

Lock boxes are supplied at the General Post Office and at the branch offices in Hawaii, Maui and Kauai. Letters are collected from the vStreet Boxes twice each day except Sundays and Holidays.

Packages or parcels of mailable matter up to eleven lbs. in weight will be convej'ed in the domestic service on prepayment of one cent per ounce. Foreign parcels SJ oz. in weight.

All letters or parcels of value should be registered. Letters intended to l)e registered should be handed to the clerk, not placed in the drop. Domestic and Foreign postal money-orders will be furnished at the General Office and at branch moneyorder offices throughout the islands. No order can exceed |500 domestic and |100 foreign.

A well known lady newspaper- writer*, one whose effusions have found welcome in the columns of the leading respectable journals of the great cities of the United States, has, on recording her experiences of a trip to the Hawaiian Islands, truly said; "To end one's journey at Honolulu would be to know nothing of the Hawaiian Islands. The capital is as cosmopolitan as all seaports. The volcano of Kilauea is the place to study and is the objective point, for, even in a semiquiescent volcano there is a fascination especially where one gives a thought to the fact that here may be viewed, in safety and in comfort, one of the breathing places of this molten glole. Thus then the road of all tourists lead to the island of and the Queen city of Hilo, Hawaii. It may be that attractions and opportunities seen in and about the Queen city of Hilo may cause a long delay in home returning. "

There are two ways of getting to the island of Haw^aii from Honolulu, both by sea, but the routes are different and traveled over by steamers of different steamship companies. The land and sea-scapes by each route are full of interest when one knows the stories which attaches to the different points and the voyagers by the steamers of the Inter-Island S. S. Co. or those by the Wilder S. S. Co. will find sufficient of actual scenic worth in the particular route to satisfy them, on comparing notes, that the voyage from Honolulu to Hawaii by either route is replete with new and novel sights and events which repays both time and expense. The tourist if desirous of making a "circuit trip," as it is called, of the island of Hawaii, may take the "up" passage by the steamer of the Inter-Island S. S. Co. to Hilo leaving the steamer at Punaluu and staging then to the Volcano and to HiJo. Or vice versa i; e; voyage by one of the Wilder S. S. Co.'s vessels to Hilo direct, thence to the Volcano, from thence to Punaluu, and connecting there with a steamer for Honolulu. By adopting this method of accomplishing the journey the traveler has opportunity to form his own opinion of the preferable route and which may induce an attack of cacaolhes scribendi. usually developed in ' * circuit trip travellers. ' '

Voyaging by the Wilder S. S. Co.'s steamer KiNAU (capable, sociable and interesting Capt. Wm, Freeman commanding, and the affable Geo. C. Beckley, purser) the traveler will leave Honolulu in the afternoon and have opportunity to see the shores of Waikiki, rugged Diamond Head and the south-east side of Oahu iii the shadows of a declining sun. If the "trades" are blowing the "white wings" of the steamer will be spread which will aid in steadying the staunch vessel against the buffeting blows and swell of the thirty miles of Oahu or Kawi channel which must be crossed ere the light of Ka Lai o Ka Lae on the south-west end of Mololcai is passed. A short stop may be made off Kaunakakai to leave a mail, passen-

Directly north and inland from the port of Kaunakakai the traveler may have pointed out to him the high portion of land known as Kalae and from which, but a short distance, one can look down over the edge of a 4,000 feet precipice upon the ** Wards of the Nation" in their life home at Kalaupapa. The steamer passes the port of Kamaloo giving a distant view of Pukoo and runs off to the southward entering the Auau channel which separates the island of Lanai, on the right, from that of Maui, on the left, while in the distance, ahead, may be seen the island of Kahoolawe. This side of Maui shows signs of cultivation and, as the port ot destination is approached, daylight would show a natural beauty spot where, behind a long white beach, bordered by cocoa palms, fringed with greenery, now quietly nestles the one-time capital and former commercial town of Lahaina.

Viewed from the anchorage, Lahaina is one of the most picturesque towns in the group. For some years it was the favorite residence of Kamehameha III and where, at his palace, he convoked his councillors on affairs of state and received foreign officials. But, since those days, everything and everybody has changed. The anchorage of Lahaina is safe by day or night, a vessel has never been lost here. Surf-bathing used to be much indulged in at Lahaina even the royal and doughty Kaahumanu, the consort of Kamehameha I, engaging in the sport. Within the town the visitor may be shown the ruins of the old fort built in 1832 by Hoapili, the old time palace, one hundred feet long by forty in width, and the Governor's house. While the boat goes ashore with the mail, and may be passengers, one can view at leisure the broad fields of sugar cane which stretches along from Kekaa point (to the left) to the right of the Pioneer Mill buildings and which practically dictates to the ancient city of Lahaina thus far shall the city limits come and no further. The fields of saccharine product hold the extension of Lahainacity limits within well-defined bounds and the mills of the Pioneer Company grind into gold the fruitfulness of the lands which surround it. About 2 miles back of the city and overlooking it, froln an elevation of about 7(X) feet is the cluster of buildings which denote the Lahainaluna school; calm and peaceful-looking in its surroundings, nestled as it is amid the cultivated territory of its own grounds and which shows the practiced handiwork of Hawaiians past and present. Lahaina invites one from its very cosiness and when ashore the vista of languor still appears surrounding its inhabitants, houses and streets. The sunsets, which travellers by the Kinau can view here, will live long in the memory for the grand sceriic effects.

Again underw ay the steamer floats past the mill and settlement of the Olowalu Sugar Co, the aboriculture here apparent, relieving the sameness of cane-fields which extends along as far as the eye can see. As the steamer passes close to shore the barrenness of the top hills becomes noticeable and a line of flume, extending high up in Olowalu gulch, may be seen; but few remember the days of labor and the judgment which were needed to obtain and guide this watery blessing to Olowalu. At the foot of the gulch, on a knoll stands a tomblike structure and which indicates the last resting place of a long forgotten high personage.

Now ends the evidences of King Sugar and the voyager sees brown, dry and serreated cliffs, slashed and sliced in every direction, with gorges devoid of water or greenery, a natural shield showing a picture of desolation, the other side of which, if seen, would show the beauties of the well -watered, fruitful and scenic, lao valley. It is about fourteen miles from Lahaina to the next stopping place the much mentioned

Maalaea bay at which passengers may make connection with transit for the towns of Waikapu, Wailuku and Kahului. A good wharf is here and a well made road leading to Waikapu*, which may be seen nestlirig at the slope of the inland hills, is noticeable as well as other evidence of advanced civilization, the busy hacks and, the busier, telephone connections. As we leave here jyid go onward to Kihei a new sugar plantation, again is seen the waving crops of sugar-cane which line and extend inland from the long and level beach. At this point is also a station of the Hawaiian Fishing Co. of which the steam schooner Malolo Capt J. M. Sass, is the pioneer. An hour's run from Kihei or Maalaea bay brings the voyager to Makena a landing from which, on the return trip, cattle, sheep, pigs and potatoes may be taken. Makena landing as it is now called, better known in the halcyon days of Hawaii as **Makee*s'* landing is at the base of the high lands which reaches cloud wards towards the crater summit of Mt. Haleakala. Near the top of the hills, over Makena, is the formerly noted homestead of the Makee family, Ulupalakua, and which at one time in the not very long past was famed for the hospitality of the family who owned it and for the variety, beauty and expense, shown in the trees, plants and flowers, which adorned the grounds. A grand place to visit in the old days was Ulupalakua and a slight idea may be had of its former by the remnants shown in its faded grandeur. Leaving Makena, the small crater-island of Molokini is passed, and soon afterwards the deserted and

*Here the forces of Kamehameha the Great, once assembled for battle at the sounding of the conch-shell. Hence its name Wai-ka-pu [y-kah-pooh] the " water of the conch or trump>et. " lonesome looking island of Kahoolawe is left astern and passage is made through the Alalakeiki and across the Hawaii channel where voyagers generally have a rough road to travel for about four and a half hours when the port of Mahukona is made. Here it is usual for the passengers to take a trip ashore for exercise and they will learn that Mahukona although seemingly nothing but rocks and boulders yet is a place of considerable importance being the starting point of the Hawaii railroad which carries freight and passengers from here to some twenty-five miles inland tow^ards Kohala. In elder days opportunity was given to passengers to take a trip over the road but now-a-days the hurry and bustle of business prevents the delay of the steamer. Mahukona is a port of entry and is the discharging depot for sugar mills in the Kohala district. Several vessels may be seen here during the sugar season waiting to load. The steamer now makes a pleasant trip from here to the noted village of Kawaihae and the traveler is pleased with the smoothness of the water and scenery en route although the distance is but ten miles. Passing along, the Kohala mountains rear their heads to shoreward. Weather-scarred and seamed into deep ravines, is the near shore, all the way from Mahukona to Kawaihae. Nothing of greenery, only the brown, dry, rocky frontage, of a sesmic-made territory. Soon the voyager sights the lofty summits of other natural monuments and which tower high into the realms of upward space. To the south, or right, as one goes from Mahukona to Kawaihae, the rounded smooth-looking and lofty Mt. Hualalai is seen, while to the north, or extreme left, may be viewed modest

Mauna Loa, her head dressed with a cload cap, while the breadth and gentle slope of each broad shoulder shows reserve strength. As a fitting center-piece Mauna Kea raises its lofty, rugged head to view, and the snow like, the wish, almost finds utterance for **more. *' **At times the steamer stops at this port of Kawaihae first, and when so the arrival of the steamer, the list of passengers, and other news is telephoned direct to Hilo with which place there is direct communication. Here, if so desirous, the traveller can arrange for hotel or other accommodation at Hilo ; the same opportunity oifers at Mahukona. Before leaving Kawaihae the attention should be directed to a corral-like structure, or wall, situated on a bluff at the back of the town. If opportunity offers a trip might be made thither, for the structure is historical as being one within the confines of which many human sacrifices were made by Kamehameha I., the Napoleon of Hawaii, to his wargod Kaili, or Tairi. Here a famous temple or heiau called ** Puukola, ^' was built by this chief in 1791*. It is related that it was commenced when the chief was engaged in conquering the islands; he had subdued Maui, Lanai and Molokai and was preparing to invade Oahu; a rebellion in the south and east of Hawaii brought him back after subduing which he finished the heiau, dedicated it to his war-god and proceeded to the conquest of Oahu. The enclosure is an irregular parallelogram in form, 224 feet long and 100 feet wide. At Mailikini, a place a few hundred yards nearer the shore, was formerly another heiau or temple about the same dimensions as ** Puukola" but otherwise inferior in regard to structure, use or history.

*Iu the " A Brief History of the Hawaiian People," by Prof. W. D. Alexander, may be found a full description of this famous temple, as related by Ellis. In brief it may be said the wicker-tower was called a cananuu. This was the oracle where the priest stood and delivered the sayings of the god. At the entrance to the inner court was the altar and the interesting point of Kailua, where the American missionaries landed in 1820. also noted for being the successive residence place of many Hawaiian kings, and the shores of Kealakekua bay, where, at Kawaaloa, may be !e;n the monument to the memory of Capt.

James Cook, the discoverer, are left astern, to be visited, if desired, by the other steamer route, but not by the Kinau. At Hoonaunau a port a short distance from Cook's monument, may be seen the crumbling remains of a puukohona celebrated as a " bouse of re- fuge.** ''Hither the man-slayer, the tabu-breaker, the thief and even the murderer was safe/* This puukohola was situated near the Hale o Keawe, the - 'house of Keawe.** This latter is stated to have been built by the son of king Keawe II. in 1690 and was a famous royal mausoleum.

Leaving Kawaihae the steamer doubles on her course, passing Mahukona again, en route to Cape Upolu (or Upolu Point) the northernmost point of the island of Hawaii and which is rounded before laying course for Hilo.

It is to be hoped that nothing has intervened to prevent a view by daylight of the coast scener>% from Upolu point to Hilo, because here is the scenery, par excellence^ of the coast of Hawaii. Less than an hour is occupied in rounding the Point and then there is presented, gradually, an improved appearai?ce in the land formation and in the evidences of cultivation. Now comes the famous Kohala sugar district into view with its precipice-guarded frontage. Close to the point is Hawi mill and plantation, covering over 4000 acres, turning out nearly 8000 tons sugar, in season, and where half-a-thousand workers are employed. Next comes, in order, the Union Mill, Kohala, Halawa and Niulii sugar mills and plantations, the largest of which Halawa is but dimly seen in the near foreground. Rugged and rocky is this windward coast, and unlucky the sailing vessel that seeks haven here in distress. The current makes in here strongly and under the overhanging shores of Niulii. At this point, there was found last February (1899) the wrecked remains of an American schooner, the "Nomad," which was sup-

The course of the steamer is now put closer inland and better opportunity is offered to view and study the grand formations which nature presents. Above, the , land is teeming with products of a bountiful soil; over the precipitous edges plunge waterfalls of various sizes which leap grandly down into snowy union with the spray of the sea beneath. Above, nature is sending fortunes forth; below, cruel rocks and boisterous seas ever threaten the steamers that act as messengers of commerce along this rugged coast. Now approach is made to the valleys of Waimanu and Waipio, easily made out by the striking character of their massive mound-shaped forms and the lines of demarcation from the former unbroken shore line. First, however, is noticed the fertile valley of Pololu; next Laupahoehoe*, a small fishing village, is passed. Here the mountainous sea-side is nearly 600 feet high, perpendicular and smooth as a compact piece of masonry. Water may easily be seen oozing from the face of this rock at a height of from 200 to 300 feet, while here and there a bright waterfall leaps into the depths below. Pele is said to have visited this village with her wrath in 1819, Ellis, noting in 1820, that ** the original surface of the ground appeared to have been broken by an earthquake. Wrecks of houses were seen in different places, * * * * presenting altogether an awful sight. '* And so it stands, but for the ravages of time, the same to-day. Now is noticeable the clear-cut openings which indicate the entrance from the sea-side to the famous Waimanu valley which may be reached by boat from Waipio valley or by a westerly inland route irom there. This grand specimen of nature's work was sketched by Ellis and others and shows that though less noted than Waipio, yet Waimanu is equal if not superior to Waipio in its scenic grandeur. Another carving in the shore line identifies the entrance to the famous val- ley of Waipio. This is another grand scenic spot and deserves a land visit. The entrance from the sea is at times blocked with high sand cliffs. The summits of the hills which border the valley are from 500 to 600 feet high, nearly perpendicular, yet covered with grass and with winding paths running along their steep sides. In early days this valley was thickly inhabited, many heiaus, or temples, were located there, and here king Umi is said to have sacrificed.* ' * Pakalana, * * a city of refuge for all this portion of the island, was seen here by Ellis in 1823; and he mentions in his record; * ' Messrs Thurston & Ellis tried to gain admittance to the pahu tabu, or sacred enclosure, but were refused. " This place was noted for the offerings made by Kamehameha I. and by Liholiho; (Kam. II.) a rudely carved stone image was here, at that time. From Kukuihaele, the land continuance beyond Waipio onward becomes more level, the evidences of cultivation more extended and broad fields, centred settlements, smoke-belching stacks and masses of laborers are viewed as the steamer passes the sugar plantations of Honokaa, Paaiihau, Paauilo, Kukuaiau, and the rocky, rugged landing which leads to the fertile fields of Ookala. The next stopping place is approaching, but the steamers do not always stop there, and that is the village and plantation of Laupahoehoe. Here is a volcanic view for the traveller and which gives a very good presentation of the coast formation and the little chance for hope of rescue to a ship-wrecked crew who might be forced to battle with the ever turbulent surf of good tillable ground, (which the voyager does not see) with the aid of the busy mill, over 3000 tons of sugar are put out here in a: season and shipped to San Francisco or may be to New York. In two hours more the Kinau will drop her anchor in Hilo harbor and in pas.sing along, will show the lessening heights in. the

The Manager presents that it has been the constant effort of the VolcanoStablesCo-to satisfy customersand is now, by the acquisition of new stock, fiilly prepared to supply the Hilo public and visiting tourists with a first-class service.

The Volcano Stables send forward every other daya through stage to the Volcano of Kilauea. Parties desiring single or double rigs may obtain the same on order. Gentle and surefooted saddle horses suitable for ladies or gentlemen. The best outfits, at most reasonable charges in Hilo.

The VOI.CANO STABLES & TRANSPORTATION CO., LTD., having lately acquired the control of the Kilauea Stables, from Mr. Von Gravemeyer, desire to inform merchants and shippers as well as the general public that, they are now enabled to do, land fonnation and more ordinary', everj'-day tropical scenery. Hakalau, Honomu and Kaupakuea plantations and mills, are passed and the lighthouse at Pepeekeo conies to view by day or night. Here the courtesy of notice of arrival is given at the hands of Engineer Robert More, of Pepeekeo plantation, whose act is duly acknowledged by the Kinau's ever alert captain. Into the spacious Hilo bay the steamer enters, lea^'ing on the right hand, Onomea and Papaikou plantations while between them and the Wailuku river, placed upon a sloping hillside, is the Wainaku plantation and the residence sites of Puueo, or Greater Hilo. As the anchor is dropped, the flashing lights by night, and a cloud of dust on a dry day, indicate the coming forth of Hilo*s army of buss and hackmen who will quickly transport the traveller at a fair rate, to the Hotel or to lodgings.

Hawaiian

Hilo is to-day the ** Paradise of the Pacific ! '* What Honolulu was, years ago and still claims to be, Hilo is. The capitol city in the past made many successful attempts to claim all the natural advantages of the group but, alas! only the Diamond Head landmark dindi petite Punchbowl are visible there as the Lilliputian specimens of Nature* s handiwork while the grand, cloudkissing heights of rugged Manna Kea (13,805 feet), and dome-like Maun a Loa (18,600 feet), greet the visitor to Hilo from sunrise until twilight. And the stranger- visitor may have full view of the crescentshaped bay on which the Queen City of Hawaii is enthroned. Hilo Bay is justly acknowledged to be the most spacious in the Pacific. The tourist will notice its semi-circle of nearly two miles, the northern extremity formed by the noted Cocoanut Island [a black lava islet on which that palm grows to perfection] and close to which the steamer lands her passengers and freight. Beyond, a fringe of cocoa palms mark the indentations of Reed's Bay and other points along the north-eastern shore. Towards the Hilo side runs a bow-shaped band of golden sand on which the surf breaks with a sound like the boom of distant cannonading interspersed with the sharp swish, at either end, of the gathered forces of the Wailuku and Waiakea rivers engaged in the ever constant conflict between the mermen and the naiads. Long years ago, [in 1825] the bay was visited by Lord Byron [cousin of the poet] in H. B. M. S. "Le Blonde," a 4t) gun frigate and which had brought back from England to Honolulu the bodies of Kamshameha II. and his queen, both of whom had died of measles in Loudon, while on a visit thither as guests of George IV. Lord Byron after making a scientific trip to the volcano of Kilauea had the bay surveyed and it was called after him for many years; but, the natural name, **Hilo, ** is now used, as ** Hawaii*' is for Sandwich." The original Hawaiian name was '* Waiakea" but that has fallen into disuse.

Hilo, the Queen City and capital of the island of Hawaii is the second in size of the coming cities of the group and is the commercial and the industrial center, as well as the chief shipping port, of this the largest island and which has an area and productive possibilities, aside from natural scenery, superior to those of all the other islands combined. The possibilities of Hawaii are, at the present writing [August 1899] being rapidly developed by the influx of capitalists and business men, from all over the world, who are realizing on the advantages of the unexcelled soil and salubrious climate. The population of Hilo is now approaching close to 5000, is most cosmopolitan in character and includes a large proportion of people of education, wealth and refinement, hospitable to strangers and delightful neighbors and friends. One would travel far before finding a place with greater natural advantages, more beautiful surroundings, superior business opportunities and pleasanter social conditions than here prevail. This "Queen City" of Hawaii is rapidly growing in importance in the number and size of its industrial and business enterprises and with the impulse soon to be given by the returns from the coffee area, now practically developed, the inauguration of the Olaa sugar plantation and the introduction of a belt line of railroad, which will tap the producing towns of the surrounding country, many predict that Hilo will yet rival Honolulu in size, population and commercial importance. Within even the past two years there has l>een a great increase in the number and size of the business houses and business, mounting up close to half a million dollars, is now being transacted monthly with the surrounding plantations, which represent the sugar, coffee and agricultural interests, and which furnishes a substantial, steady and enduring basis for the permanent prosperity of the city. Added to all this, the possession of a harbor, large and well protected, with the addition of improved wharf facilities, offers ample accommodation for the busy steamers of the inter-island steamship companies, the fleet of merchantmen which now carry sugar from Hilo to San Francisco and New York, and, although already selected as the terminal point for one progressive steamer line from the Pacific Coast,- gives promise of being the terminal or calling port of many steam lines in the not far distant future.

Hilo is cleanly and healthy ; has suitable hotel accommodations, excellent water supply, a telephoneand electric light system, which surpasses those in vogue in many of the larger cities of the United States, good and cheap cab service and is well policed. To the sight-seer, or tourist, the vicinity of the city will afford many interesting opportunities to gratify his curiosity before fully satiating himself by a visit to the farfamed ever active, volcano of Mokuaweoweo or its, occasionally, more passive adjunct the crater of Kilauea. It is quite proper that the starting-point for sight-seeing should be from the cool, roomy, Hilo Hotel.

The visitor will find Hilo a delightful place to walk about during good weather; the heavy rainfall however, which visits the Queen City is, at times, a cause for slight discomfort especially when the downpour is long continued. It is well then to be provided with oil-skins as the most useful adjunct to a traveller's outfit and which are preferable to the ordinary waterproofs or mackintoshs. The well-made roads give opportunity for but little mud and the slope seaward sends the surplus water quickly to the bay. Leaving the Hotel one passes through the spacious grounds and beneath the lofty and wide-spreading rubber tree which graces the center of the large grass plot. Pitman street is reached and, opposite the Hotel, may now be seen the Hilo Courthouse where is located the chambers of the Circuit Court, Judge Gardiner K. Wilder, and the rooms ot the District or Police Court, Judge Hapai. A sun dial placed near the large flag-staff in the center ot the grounds is a memento of the days of King Kalakaua. Adjoining the Courthouse are the Police Station, Sheriffs and Tax Collector's offi»^s, and the visiting stranger will find Sheriff Lorrin Andrews one well versed in local as well as in Island history.

The Hilo Hotel is under the direct management of Mr. J. H. McDonough, well and favorably known in connection with Hotel management on the continent and in the United States and who uses his professional experience in every way to contribute to the comfort of patrons of the Hotel.

The patrons of the Hotel have many advantages; the rooms are large, well ventilated and afford, from the broad verandahs, views at sunset and sunrise of the famous Mauna Kea, the "white mountain*' of Hawaii. The annexed cottages are spacious and well fitted for family uses. The Hotel and cottages are supplied . with electric lights and electric annunciators. The office of the Hotel is furnished with a telephone, free to guests. The table is always supplied with the best in the market and the bill of fare always first-class.

To Waianuenue street is but a few rods, and this, the best thoroughfare in Hilo, presents a most creditable appearance. Looking from the Courthouse toward the bay one may see (as in the accompanying picture) the engine house of Steam Fire Engine Co., No. 1 in the near foreground. Chief Engineer Vannatta has had but little actual fire-fighting to engage in but he keeps the department '*up to date'* in drill and discipline. On the right may be seen the establishment of Theo. H. Davies & Co.. Mr. Charles H. Fairer being the local representative. A little further along on the same side are the offices and headquarters of the Volcano Stables and Transportation Co. Col. '*Jack" Wilson one of the biggest and j oiliest of Hilo's good people, the manager. On the left, below the Engine house is the Telephone office. Masonic Hall, Hilo Library and Hackfeld & Co.'s block, Mr. Geo. Rodiek representing the Hackfeld firm.

Bridge street is next en route the location being easily known by the twin spire Roman Catholic church located thereon to the right. Turning to the left the visitor passes the Masonic Hall and the newspaper row of Hilo which holds the offices of * 'The Hilo Tribune Publishing Co.,*' the paper a bright weekly edited by Mr. W. H. Smith and managed by Mr. Archie C. Steele, and a Portuguese weekly *'La Voz Publica" of which Mr. G. F. Affonso is the editor. ** The Hilo Tribune" is newsy and progressive and its utterances are in close accord with the public pulse. A fine building, for W. C. Peacock Co., to cost about $35,000 is now in course of erection on the corner of Bridge and Waianuenue streets; Mr. R. L. Auerbach is the local representative. Traveling along Bridge street theWai- luku river bridge is reached and from which view may be had of the broad river and the wide expanse of Hilo bay. Looking inland one may see the doublefalls which leap from the lava rocks into mid-stream. The vicinity of the Wailuku river in the elder days of Hawaiian history was a most celebrated market-place. There inhabitants from all portions of the island of Hawaii assembled to make exchanges of property. Certain districts were noted for tapa; others for mats; others for livestock or the excellence of poi or dried fish. The air was resonant with the cries of peddlers crying their wares which were exhibited on either side the stream, according to certain rules, and, when a bargain was in negotiation, the articles were deposited on a certain rock, below the twin falls. No bridge then existed but the inspectors, in charge of the bartering, levied toll on all who crossed.

Beyond the Wailuku bridge lies the district of Puueo and where are many elegant residences. Returning back, along Bridge street, Shipman street, almost opposite the Hilo Tribune office, is met, and down which it is well to walk as opportunity may then be bad to view the noted Hilo Fish-market. The Union Saloon, where the 'elite of Hilo "call and see a man,*' is also here located under the ownership of Signor Soares and management of, an accommodating mixiclogist, **Major" Will Downer. Thefoot of Shipman street is crossed by Front street. Kilo's most busy thoroughfare. Turning, on reaching Front street, to the right, the Postoffice building may be seen on the left, or northwest corner of Waianuenue and Front. Messrs. Hackfield & Go's building is across on the right hand upper corner while on the further upper corner, diagonally across from the Postoffice, is the Spreckels Block which contains Spreckels Hall and where theatrical and other performances are given. Mr. L. Turner has his large department store at the corner, under the Hall, and a little further along in the block is the Hilo Drug Co., Harry L. Shaw, manager.

Front street is now the thoroughfare traveled and King is the first street passed. Improvements are now in progress which will result in the erection of a block of like size and structure as the Spreckels Block. On

King near Front is the office ot the Hilo Water Works, Supt. Vanatta. Continuing along Front the lower end of Church street is passed. Close to the corner niay be noticed the business office and printing establishment of the " Hawaii Herald," an English weekly, Mr. J. T. Stacker, managing editor. The " Herald"

Mason, president and manager. Opposite is the Hilo Custom House, while, but a few doors removed, is the United States Consulate quarters presided over by a well-known delineator of volcanic fires, Charles W. Furneaux, esq. Hackfield & Co' s lumber yard, with the extensive and expensive cofFee-cleaning plant, are both located on ground made famous as being the spot on which was built and launched the first vessel constructed in all Hawaii, viz : the ** Britannia," noted as having been the flagship of Kamehameha 1st. Rapid transit may now be made past Ponohawai street, along the beach line, over the public race ground, en which Hilo occasionally holds holiday, until the Waiakea river bridge is reached. Here are located the Pilot's office, Capt. Fitzgerald, and the shipping warehouses of the Matson line of San Francisco-Hilo packets, R. T. Guard, agent; the Wilder S. S. Co., Irving B. Schoen, agent ; the British- American, Seattle-Hilo line, Chas. H. Fairer, agent, and others. A continuation of the trip by this beach-road lands one at the row-boat ferry which gives opportunity to visit Hilo's favorite sea-girdled picnic and bathing ground. Cocoanut Island, a glorious place for an outing and much visited. Close to one of the bathing places is a rock, shown to visitors, called by Hawaiians ** Mokuola" (signifying the *' sick-healing island"), and tradition gives it miraculous powers to heal such who are sick of a '* severe illness" if the patient swims around the rock, being himself totally submerged during the circuit. Many natives try the ordeal.

Returning from Cocoanut Island a short visit may be paid to the Hilo Rifle Range and the nearby premises of the Waiakea Sugar Co. Manager C. C.

Kennedy is generally a ver>' much occupied man, but he finds time to give a succinct account of the capabilities, acreage, output and other matters connected with the mill and lands which he ably superintends. Here the fluming methods may be noticed and the cause of the many " steamer signals," as Honoluluites would say, which the stranger may have heard at daybreak or at dusk. Pure fresh water bubbles up from innumerable invisible springs, and the river bosom gives

The route now may be made to lead Hotelward although a visit might be made to Hilo Jail which is situated on the corner of Ponohawai and Pitman streets. After inspection thereof a more pleasing prospect will be presented, . as, en route, the residence portion is reached. Here living waters present themselves everywhere ; each house seems to possess a clear bright stream which is arrested in bathing houses and again liberated amongst taro patches and other vegetation of the brightest green. Here roses and castor beans alike take upon themselves the similitude of trees and here the fruits and flowers, indigenous to the soil, as well as others from far away places, flourish and bloom.

Church street, at its junction with Pitman, is reached and the applicability of the name is very apparent when the visitor notes the shapely clock-tow^er steeple of the First Foreign Church (Congregational, J. A. Cruzan, pastor) in front, and on the one hand the diamondpointed steeple of the Portuguese Christian Chvirch or on the other, the well-known square tower of the ancient Huili (native) church. The clock in the tower of the Foreign Church, shows clearly the hours both day and night and whose tocsin tells if view may not be had. This welcome, valued, useful adjunct is the gift of Dr. Charles H. Wetmore, a former old and highly esteemed resident of Hilo. The amount required to obtain and place this ornamental and very useful mechanism in position was gotten by Dr. Wetmore making a sale of his collection of rare Hawaiian stamps to Mr. Charles Hustace, Jr., of Honolulu. Mr. Stanley Gibbons, a

Once more at the Hotel the traveller will have due attention paid to the "inner man" at the hands of the affable "mine host," Col. J. H. McDonough.

Resuming the tour one again reaches Waianuenue street leaving Pitman street on the left and behind him. The route now is up Waianuenue, and in passing one may see, 'mid tropical surroundings, many beautiful Hilo homes. School street, on the right will be reached arid near the corner thereof may be seen the Hilo Union School, which has a capable, earnest and well-loved teacher. Miss Josephine Deyo, as principal. Beyond this school are the grounds and buildings of the historical Hilo Boys* Boarding School, from where has graduated many scholars who have held, and some now hold, high positions of trust in the public as well as in the commercial life of Hawaii. Further along is Hilo's God's Acre, *' Homelani," the city cemetery. To go still further along in this easterly direction would lead to the vicinity of the Electric Light and the Ice Works and also to the offices of the Hilo Portuguese Sugar Co. At the plantation precincts, manager Von Gravemeyer, affable and intelligent, gives a welcome and supplies all needed information in a trite and lucid manner, and the visitor will not fail to appreciate the courtesy and attention shown.

To Waianuenue street again, from whence a turn to the right will bring one to the steel bridge which connects the stream-encircled Riverside Park with the mainland. The park was formerly Reed's Island, socalled ; but, Messrs Bruce, Waring and Co., (Mr. C. S. Desky and Mr. J. G. Pratt) purchased and plotted it into homesteads, and to-day, the most popular people of Hilo are erecting beautiful residences thereon. A traverse arpund the park gives opportunity to view the many miniature falls, **The Bridal Vail," **Maid of the Mist," Lover's Leap," and the ** Silver Cascade." Noteworthy is the fact that Riverside Park residents are supplied with drinking water from the celebrated Waikapu *' taboo water," a spring which, in Hawaiian olden days, was held sacred to the use of high chiefs alone. From here the king Kalaniopuu and later the noted Kamehameha were always supplied, by means of runners, although oftentimes over fifty miles removed, relays of fleet-footed adherents performing the sacred duty. Returning ouce again to Waianuenue street one passes a new Government school-house but lately built, and then comes the Hilo Hospital, with the Queen Victoria Annex, the latter provided through the generosity oi British resideiits. Miss Ella Grubb is the matron in charge and has ever had the esteem and confidence of the patients. St. Mary's School, a scholastic Roman Catholic institution under the control of Christian Brother teachers, is passed, and the next destination will be the celebrated Rainbow Falls. Rainbow Falls is the Mecca of all pilgrims to Hilo and its changes are many, all most interesting. The road turns to the left just before reaching the flume of the Hilo Portuguese Mill Co., and a twenty-minute walk brings the traveller on the outskirts of the point of destination. A solitary mango tree, on an elevation to the right, marks the location; passage to which is across a plank through a sugar-cane-bordered passage and trail, until the roar of the Falls is plainly heard and to which all routes lead. Reaching the ** mound,*' opposite to the Falls, the scene impresses the gazer at once as one of beauty and novelty. Here, over a precipice of rock, in two broad six teet and twelve feet streams, the watery mass makes a sheer descent of nearly one hundred feet, in an almost solid shower of glittering silver. The view gives the- impression of a natural bridge, about sixty feet long, spanning the basin, below w^hich is a perfect circle of, perhaps, a hundred yards diameter. The water pours over this arch, which rests on either side upon massive slabs of rock, in one splendid sheet nearly one hundred feet in height. The arch however is not entirely through, but forms the entrance to a deep cavern. The basin into which the stream plunges is completely walled iu by precipices more than 150 feet high, richly covered with moss, ferns and shrubs. Opposite the cascade or Fall runs an isolated pyramid of basaltic rock, possessing in its formation the same originality of arrangement and delineative characteristics as the Giant's Causeway (in

Ireland). In the afternoon, when the sun strikes down on the silvery spray, a perfect rainbow is formed, whose brilliancy is enhanced by the dark, wierd background of the deep receding cave. A legend relates that: a fair Hawaiian goddess dwelt in the rave, and a"moe" or genii attempted her murder therein, but was foiled by her son Maui ; the injuries to the goddess caused her to lose her eyesight, but being familiar with the cave she chose to dwell there. Visited by a lover, her husband discovered the intrigue, and, in rage, killed both. Their spirits yet mingle in the rainbows at the Falls. Higher up the Wailuku river are other falls of less interest. ^At the Kolikoli river may be seen the Akaki falls, and close thereto the line which shows the end of the lava flow toward Hilo in 1887.

The trip and return to the Falls will, very probably, induce the tourist to defer further excursions for the day, and, in the meantime, view may be had from the Hotel verandahs of the country above Hilo. Here may be viewed broad lands sweeping cloudwards, which, with their sugar cane, coffee, taro, melons, pineapples and banana groves, suggest the boundless liberality of Nature. Woods and waters, hills and valleys, are all there, and, from the region of an endless summer the eye takes in the domain of a suggestive endless winter, where almost perpetual snow crowns the summits of Maun a Kea and Mauna Loa. Mt. Mauna Kea, from Hilo, has a shapely aspect for its top is broken into peaks, but the dome-like structure of Mauna Loa, its left-hand neighbor, may well cause deeper interest for it is yet ungrown; an unfinished mountain which Nature is yet sending skyward daily, the last natal movement occurring on July 4th, 1899, several billions of yards of lava being on that, and succeeding days, overlaid the entire territory in close proximity to Mokuaweoweo, the active crater on Mouna Loa.

Other points of interest may be learned by inquiry of either the Hotel manager or of Manager Wilson of the Volcano Stables, as also the cost of conveyance thither

For the use of travellers and local people this Quide to Hilo is closed with a late list of the business people of the city, and which follows as " Hilo Busil" FALLS.

ness Directory." Attention is directed to the advertisements as being of leading firms only, and where interest is given to the requests of all visitors, whether patrons or not.

Wholesale Retail

We invite correspondence on matters pertaining to this the i^ARGEST, and most important Island of the group, and we will cheerfully furnish reliable, practical information pertaining to lands, products, cost of living, etc. Communications should be addressed toy. IV. MASOJV, President and Manager.

Hay, Grain, Feedstuffs, Flour Foresee Brand Coffee

estate agents. Tribune Building, Bridge nr Waianuenue. Brughelli, F., proprietor City Stables. Bruner, W. W., road engineer, Hilo postoffice. Brush, C. F., surveyor, Waianuenue above Bridge. Busch, N. N., foreman, Hilo Tribune.

Agents For

Davies, TheO. H. A Co., Ltd. Chas. H. Fairer, local manager; wholesale merchants , marine, fire and life insurance; agents Canadian- Australian and British- American S. S. Cos.; commission agents; cor. Waianuenue, Bridge and King.

Front Street

We carry a Complete Stock of DRUGS, PATENT MEDICINES and * PERFUMERY, and a Choice Assortment of TOILET ARTICLES, DRESSING CASES, etc., etc.

A Pull Line of all styles Kodaks, and of Camera Supplies, such as Dry Plates, Films, Solio, Platinotype, Velox and Dekko papers, and Card Mounts constantly on hand.

Special Manures Manufactured To Order

No adulteration of any kind is used, and every ton is sold under a guaranteed analysis. One ton or a thousand tons are almost exactly alike, and for excellent mechanical condition and high anal^^sis have no superior in the market.

The large and constantly increasing demand for the Fertilizers Manufactured by the California Fertilizer Works, is the best possible proof of their superior quality.

Straight Goods, Courteous Treatment

estate owner, and surveyor. King nr Pitman. Lyman, L. C, principal Hilo Boarding School. Lyman, Mrs. L. C. teacher Hilo Boarding School. Lyman R. A., deputy-sheriff Hawaii, office with sheriff.

For Sale At

prop'r, Volcano Road nr Church. Palfrey, A. C, notary public. Parson, C. F., attorney-at-law, with Ray Bros. opp. Spreckels' block. Patterson, A. J., manager, Hilo Planing Mill. Paty, W. F., architect and builder, Church nr Front. Peacock, W. C. & Co., (Ud.) R. A. Auerbach, manager,

Pioneer News Co., ^^'- ^- Borden, prop'r, books, newspapers, stationery, etc.. Front opp. Spreckels block. Pires J. S. bottler Pacific Soda Works. Planters' Line of packets, H. Hackfeld & Co., (Ltd.) agents. Pogue, H. A., ass't. bookkeeper Volcano Stables Co. Police vStation, King nr Pitman.

Sug Ar & Coffee Land S Of Hawaii

COASTING the interesting Island of Molokai, and making three stops on the Island of Maui giving a magnificent view of the Crater of Hai^kakala, four stops on the Island of Hawaii, skirting the richest Sugar and Coffkk lands in the world. A carriage ride of thirty miles over a fine macadamized road traversing a primeval tropical forest, interspersed by Sugar and CoiFee Plantations, Eight hours from Hilo to the VoivCANO. No change of vehicle.

To Those Seeking Investments

m m Jf ^1 %# Pay the FULL DOLLAR to others for what VW ^Ti T you- can. purchase from the Mutual Reserve Fund Life Assodation FOR vSIXTY CENTS ? No personal Liability to anv Member.

Excellent Positions Open In Its Agency Department Attorney-At-Law

Does a general law, admiralty, corporation and bankruptcy practice in all the Courts of the Islands and in the United States Supreme Court, Washington, D. C. Hawaiian, Portuguese, Japanese and Chinese languages spoken in office.

Commission Agent

Buys and sells Real Estate, Stocks, Bonds, etc. Houses to I^et; Lands for Lease; Property taken in charge for absentees. A thorough knowledge of the surrounding country and of land values offers extra inducement for the patronage of prospective investors.

Fire Dept., contractor & builder. King nr Front. Varina, N. A., painter with J. h. Carter. Victor Clement, salesman, J. D. Kennedy. Victor Philip, butcher. Central meat market.

Horseshoer

nr Front. Widders, E. H. furniture, Church nr Front. Wilder Gardiner K., judge Circuit Court, Wilder S. S. Co.^' B' Schoen, agent, office Volcano stables, Wilhelm, G. C, prop'r Wilhelm's bakery, Waianuenue nr

Hilo, Hawaii Cabinet-Maker And Wood-Worker

The great crater of Kilauea, that ever, more or less, active caldron of volcanic fire, is one of the most sublime und real wonder-spots on the face of this earthly sphere. The crater itself is nine miles in circumference; nowhere else within the knowledge of mankind is there a living crater to be compared with it. Vesuvius the much-lauded scene-spot which overhangs the bay of Naples and ^tna, the almost unattainable locality, are unworthy of comparison. The crater of Kilauea, ever presenting its tangible evidences of the dormant presence of the devouring fire demon, may be explored with ease and comparative safety although the observer stands upon the very brink of the awful precipice which leads to the home of the dreaded Firegoddess Pele, the far-famed Hale-mau-mau.

There are two ways of getting to the Volcano from Honolulu. One is by the well-equipped steamer Kiuau of the Wilder Steamship Co. which leaves Honolulu on regular scheduled time the dates being easily obtainable by reference to any newspaper or by a call at the Company's office. By this line the rraveller will go along the lines described under the caption of **Eh Route," on page 17 of this book and will land in Hilo. From thence a well-equipped and capably conducted stage, of the Volcano Stables & Transportation Co., J. R. Wilson, mgr., will afford means of passage for the thirty-one miles of ride between Hilo and the Volcano House, an up-to-date hotel situated almost on the brink of the celebrated caldron. This road leads through grand specimens of tropical forests and vegetation and the road-bed is so even and the grade so graces;

Private Bani^ueting Room for Parties First-class Billiard and Pool Tables Furnished Rooms, Single or en Suite Lighted Throughout by Electricity

Annie Johnson. '

The other route is bv steamers of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co., which leave Honolulu on regular scheduled time. These steamers coast along Maui and the southern coast of Hawaii to the port of Punaluu. Here the traveller disembarks and enjoys a sixmile ride through a cultivated sugar plantation and takes stage for twenty -four miles to the Volcano House. This route gives smoother water, at times; affords an opportunity to see the course of the latest lava flows, and a viiew of the monument erected to the memory of the discoverer of Hawaii, Capt. James Cook.

- The Volcano House, now in charge of Mr. and Mrs. Fred Waldron, = whom visitors will find most cheerful, interesting, accommodating and instructive hosts, is a most modern caravansary being a fine building with parlors, reading and billiard rooms, an excellent cuisine, and ample accommodations for nearly a ^ hundred guests. Guests' have the advantage of use of natural sulphur 3team baths, and which are most beneficial even to the healthiest person. The Hotel is located on the edge of a magnificent tropical forest and on the verge of the great crater of Kilauea. The climate is cool and bracing, the summits of Mauna Loa, of which Kilauea is a breast incision, and of Mauna Kea, almost continually covered with snow, being but thirty miles distant.

/ ed, information as to requisities and privileges may be obtained of Mr. Irving B. Schoen the local representative of Wilder S. S. Co. or Col. "Jack'' Wilson the affable manager of the Volcano Stables & Transportation Co.

General Merchandise

Dry Goods, Groceries, Flour, Hay, Grain. I^ime and Cement. Crockery » and Glassware. Gent's Furnishing Goods, Hats, Caps Stationery, Kerosene Oil, Sash, Doors and Blinds. Boots and Shoes, Rubber Goods, Paints and Oils. Hardware, Furniture, Bedding, Etc.

Ri.Antation And Shirring Surri-Ies

To parties seeking investments in the HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, U. S. A. We have to offer Coffee Lands, Cane Lands, Rice Lands, Agricultural and Pasture Lands, City and Town Property, . Excellent Business Property. Correspondence Solicited.