Retreat Plantation, 130 Pinckney Retreat Road, Beaufort

Source document Quoted word for word from HABS SC-860. Not written, edited or summarised by this site.

This is the only surviving tabby-built plantation house of pre-Revolutionary date in Beaufort County which is still inhabited. PART I.. HISTORICAL INFORMATION A. Physical History 1. Date of erection: The exact date is not known, however, the house is commonly attributed to a French immigrant, Jean de la Gaye. If the attribution is correct, it would place the initial construction at some time between and 2. Architect/ builder: Not known. 3. Alterations /Additions: The gables and end chimneys show signs of extensive rebuilding at upper levels, including the coping to the gables. This work was done in either in the or later, perhaps after the earthquake of when the so-called earthquake rods made of iron presumably were introduced. The house was abandoned in By its roof had collapsed.

Fireplaces, floorboards, and other timbers were subsequently looted. Extensively reworked and restored in the house was again altered in when a rear addition containing a kitchen was erected. The gable-ended wing extended the house northward. Afterwards, more living space was added east of the wing and a new benrnom over. B. Historic Context Local tradition asserts that the tract located three or four miles from Beaufort Town on the northwest side of B anery Creek which, by the end of the eighteenth century had become known as The Retreat.

was first granted to Jean (John) de la Gaye, a French native who settled in the Low Country during the 1 If so, it is likely that the 250 acres warranted to him in 1 This individual is variously called John De la Gaye, John DelaGeyey, and John DelaGaye in contemporary documents. The last appellation is probably to be preferred since it was the one used by his attorney, Henry Laurens. Details of de la Gaye's life and activities have been obscured by numerous tales repeated without question or were further elaborated by local writers over the course of the twentieth century. The majority (if not all ) such tales appear highly fanciful and are largely contradicted by what few original documents survive. RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No.

(page 2) family right by the South Carolina Council on 1 July refers to this property. 2 Erection of the tabby house now called Retfeat Plantation is attributed to the same individual, which would place its construction before the year when de la Gaye left Beaufort (for France) permanently. While construction of the house before the American Revolution seems probable on the basis of architectural style, archaeological investigation has revealed evidence for little more than casual occupation of its surrounding site during the early- or mid-eighteenth century.

3 Moreover, there is nothing in the surviving historic record attesting to any agricultural activity at Retreat on the part of de la Gaye who, rather than a planter, emerges from local sources as one of Beaufort's more prominent early businessmen. Variously called a storekeeper and merchant, his standing was high enough in Beaufort Town for him to be elected Churchwarden of St. Helena Parish on 20 April and Vestryman in a position he held intermittently down until Over this period, conveyances attest to numerous transactions involving the purchase and sale by de la Gaye of commercial property located on or adjacent to Bay Street in Beaufort. In he purchased Beaufort Town Lot No. fronting east on Charles Street, for South Carolina currency. 5 Subsequent purchases included Town Lot No.

301 6 , a desirable commercial 2 De la Gaye's petition mentions a family of five which presumably included himself, his wife Catherine and three other dependents (possibly children) of whom nothing is known. There are other records of land acquisition in the vicinity dating back to May of when "John de la Gaye Gentleman bought (for currency) from Thomas Simmons (a cooper) and his and wife Mary another 250 acres "bounded NE John Grayton, SW and NN on a creek SE on Peter Palmeter".

3 In a personal communicotion (2 December regarding an archaeological survey of Retreat Plantation, the Principal Investigator, Beth Gantt observes "we found only three pieces of pottery that could be assigned to the early to mid century, a piece of German stoneware and two fragment of what appear to be an olive jar. All of these were found approximately 700 feet northwest of the home. We did not do extensive testing around the house since this area will not be disturbed [by future development]. but all of the artifacts from shovel tests indicate a middle to late century occupation. It is probable that much of the earlier materials were swept away or that century landscaping has muddied the archaeological deposits".

4 ln de la Gaye was appointed by the Vestry to oversee the rebuilding of St. Helena's Church. The last recorded Vestry meeting attended by de la Gaye was held on 23 May He was not re-elected at the Vestry held on 27 March which suggests that he had by then departed Beaufort District. ~ Charleston, South Carolina, RMC Deed Book p. 9/J 0 March Conveyance from Hillesdon Wigg and his wife Elisabeth. Charleston, South Carolina. Deed Book Deed Book p. 8/9 April RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 3) site on Bay Street, part of which he sold to Francis Stuart, Beaufort's wealthiest merchant in 7 He then sold the "front portion" to John Heyward "planter of St.

Luke's Paris~" i11 Earlier, de la Gaye must have bought a second lot facing the Beaufort River at the northwest comer of Bay and Carteret streets which, along with the neighboring Lot No. 45, was purchased by the Charleston merchant William Harvey in During the same year de la Gaye purchased Town Lot No. 12 (another prime parcel located overlooking the Beaufort River) along with the "water lot" fronting it from the estate of Samuel Prioleau. 9 It is possible that de la Gaye then set about improving the property, building a one and a half story, tabby storehouse 10 from which were sold a wide range of household items such as paint, cloth, and nails, plus European goods imported from London and Bristol.

11 There was a brisk market for such items in Beaufort, always providing that the merchant extended sufficient credit to tide impecunious planters over between seasons. But, unsecured loans were risky as Francis Stuart's premature death at the age of thirty-four or thirty-five proved in Stuart had given credit for goods worth almost an enormous sum for the period, apportioned between more than one hundred individuals including merchants, ships' crews, and scores of plantation owners. 12 Little cash was ever recovered and Stuart's once thriving business collapsed. Shaken perhaps by this failure, Jean de la Gaye left South Carolina in for "Nimes, in the Province of Languedoc" (France) soon thereafter. Between and another 7 Charleston, South Carolina, RMC Deed Book p.

October 8 Charle~to11, South Carolina, RMC Deed Book pp. February 9 Charleston, South Carolina. RMC Deed Book pp. 10 External tabby walls of what was probably de la Gaye's store still stand at 715 Bay Street in Beaufort. Originally a gable-ended structure. this building was damaged in the fire of subsequently being rebuilt with considerable alteration including a new timber-framed upper story. 11 South Carolina Gazetle. 12 February cited Rowland et al., ( If de la Gaye built the handsome, three and one-half story. tabby dwelling house known to have stood next to the store before the American Revolution is not certain. If built by de la Gaye, the residence would presumably have been erected some time between and Alternatively.

it is possible that Daniel DeSaussure built the structure soon after acquiring the property in Either way it is clear from contemporary newspaper advertisements that de la Gaye had a store on Bay Street in Badly damaged in the fire of the adjacent house was subsequently demolished and its tabby foundations (still extant) built over. 12 Charleston Inventories X: l South Carolina Depanment of Archives and History, Columbia. RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 4) prominent member of Beaufort's merchant community, Daniel DeSaussure, is said to have managed de la Gaye's locai'business while the Charleston merchants, John Savage and Henry Laurens, handling all legal affairs. The business itself, or at least its most valuable assets, Lot No.

12 and the water lot to the south (giving access to the Beaufort River) ultimately passed into sole possession of Daniel DeSaussure according to a deed recorded in Charleston on 24 February If de la Gaye ever returned to South Carolina is not known, nor is it certain when he died. State records attest that "the Retreat" had passed to "John Barnwell Esquire of Port Royal Island" by when the latter mortgaged "a tract of acres on Port Royal island commonly known by the name of the Retreat" to William Parker and Edward Blake, Commissioners of the Treasury. 13 This mortgage was satisfied on 22 November From General John Barnwell, who died in the property passed to his son, Captain John G.

Barnwell who subdivided the tract some time before 1June1819 when the citation to an otherwise lost plat records the property devolved upon his daughter, Sarah B. Barnwell. 14 In Sarah made over, for the sum of three dollars, "The Retreat cont~ining 310 acres and more bounded N. by creek leading from the Battery river, on south by Battery River and on west by lands belonging to Rev. Stephen Elliot to her sisters, Anne B. Barnwell and Emily H. Barnwell. Anne B. Barnwell married the Rev. Edward T. Walker rector of the so-called White Church, now Chapel of Ease, on St. Helena Island. Walker eventually bought out the other individuals holding portions of Retreat, Emily Barnwell for instance selling her half of the property to Walker for on 1January1856. In the U.S. Census returns for St.

Helena's Parish record that Walker then aged thirty-nine was living (presumably at Retreat) with his wife, Anne Barnwell also thirty-nine and three children, Emily Barnwell (aged fourteen): Eliza (aged ten) and Edward (aged seven). Walker owned real estate worth and other property valued at the U.S. Census of listing thirty-five slaves under his name, nineteen of whom were male and the rest female. This population (almost certainly housed at Retreat), was accommodated in fourteen slave dwellings. Today, Retreat's slave rows have disappeared, but photographs taken during the Civil War show what may have been two settlements. An image by Hubbard and Mix entitled The 13 Charleston. South Carolina. RMC Deed Book pp. 16 June 14 South Carolina Depanment of Archives and History. Columbia.

RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 5) Street and Negro Quarters, Retreat Plantation 15 illustrates a mixed group of structures strung out linear fashion along one side of the unp~ved street_ In the foreground, at the head of the rov , stands a rectangular one and one-half story, timber-framed storage building (a cotton house perhaps). Three smaller, timber framed dwellings can be seen beyond, each distinguished by an exterior end chimney. Two of the dwellings appear similar in s ize, and one is larger. As a whole, the row lacks uniformity suggesting that it evolved over the course of more than one building episode.

What was perhaps a second settlement is less securely identified, several anonymous stereoscopic images thought to be of Retreat, showing a another slave street with a row of single, gable-roofed slave dwellings. 16 These timber framed, weather boarded structures were each organized around central doorways and an end chimney. Chimneys were substantial, each comprising a rectangular tabby base (approximately high) cast in three successively higher pours. Approximately twelve courses of corbeled brick (or more likely, tabby brick) produced a transitional zone of shouldered form between the tabby base and a free-standing chimney stack which was also carried up in coursed brick (or tabby brick).

All exterior building surfaces, whether of tabby, brick or weatherboard appear whitewashed, contemporary testimony indicating that whitewashing was an annual activity on well managed plantations. Like all other plantations on Port Royal Island, Retreat was abandoned by its white inhabitants a day or two after the defeat of Confederate forces at the Battle of Port Royal (9 November The owner and his family fled inland, settling in Edgefield, South Carolina. According to Walker's own testimony, the following items had been left behind at Retreat: 46 Negroes; 40 bales of Sea Island Cotton (burnt by Order), Cattle JO head; Sheep, 12 head; Hogs, 40 head; Blades and Hay, 40 thousand pound; 8 oared boat, worth Flat worth Library worth Piano worth household furniture.

Judging by an inventory taken for the U.S. Direct Tax Commission in the piano, books, and boats mentioned by Walker soon disappeared, less valuable furnishings (a bedstead, wardrobe, table. washstand, two chairs, bathtub. andirons and fenders) being sold off for a few dollars soon 15 Stereoscopic image mounted on card with photographer's label on back. Beaufort County Library, Beaufort, South Carolina. These ~lave house are attested to by two stereoscopic views held by Beaufort County Library, Beaufort 16 Stereoscope Collection #22 and Unfortunately both views lack contemporary identification, leaving both the subject location and photographer uncertain. RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 6) thereafter. 17 Contemporary surveys show that Retreat then comprised acres bounded N.

Salem and Myrtle bush. S. Battery Creek, E. battery Creek. W. the Elis's ~he'!T'j hill and the Street." Appraised at the tract was assessed taxes in the amount of $48 plus penalties but this sum was no~ paid by its dispossessed owner, who, like the vast majority of local owners remained ignorant of any delinquency. Consequently, the U.S. Direct Tax Commission offered Retreat for sale at.a public auction held during January of perhaps selling it as two separate parcels. Sale certificates 18 indicate the property found one or more buyers but the full purchase price failed to materialize and title became vested (temporarily) in the United States.

Contemporary photographs indicate that the main house and its settlements continued to be occupied during the Civil War though by whom and for how long is not known. Activity by northern missionaries seems likely since the storehouse described above as constituting part of the slave row is identified on the back of one photographic image as a Freedman's School. Another image taken before shows that fields at Retreat were still being cultivated by black workers. Edward T, Walker made an Application to Redeem Retreat on 6 February and succeeded in recovering at least part of the holding. Family tradition relates that he subsequently sent his young son, Edward Barnwell Walker to work the plantation where a small dairy was put into operation.

Edward Walker lived on the place with his wife (Elizabeth Heyward Guerard Walker) down until when the couple moved to Beaufort. The main house fell into disrepair during their impoverished tenancy. Some time before the building's roof is said to have caved in. Looters removed mantles and wainscoting, probably tearing up original floors for firewood. 19 When Retreat's slave settlements were destroyed is not known, however, their destruction is now complete with nothing standing above ground to indicate their former location. The despoiled main house probab!y continued to stand empty and overgrown until when Retreat was bought by Mr. and James Sturdevant who later restored the dwelling to habitable condition.

A new kitchen wing was added at the rear of the building by a 17 Record Group 58, US Direct Tax Commission, South Carolina, National Archives and Records Administration, College Park, Maryland. A fender and set of andirons (valued at were bought by the well known missionary, W. M. French. With the exception of a bathtub (bought by Reed for the rest of the furnishings went to "Leacock" the majority for a dollar or two a piece, only the wardrobe fetching more A map prepared by the US Direct Tax Commission (copy, Beaufort County Library, Beaufort) record~ 18 that Army and Navy Certificates Nos. 229 and 370 (recipient's name not given) were issued following sale of the property. The 'lime map indicates that the full purchase price was not paid. 1 ~ Moussatos RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No.

(page 7) subsequent owner, Bronson Lamb, in In the property passed to Antonio Ponvert who introduced a formal garden on the building's east side. Ponvert's caretaker, BJ. Pin-:::1<..ncy, purchased Retreat in selling the house and land for development in PART II. ARCHITECTURAL DESCRIPTION 1. Plan and organization: The main house at Retreat Plantation is a one and one-half story, rectangular, gable-ended structure with internal end chimneys, measuring before its twentieth-century additions, 4" north-to-south x east-to-west excluding the porch running along its south (entrance) facade. Interior spaces have seen considerable alteration. The current plan of the principal floor incorporates a large heated through-hall (west) which opens east into two smaller rooms (northeast and southeast).

These subsidiary rooms are separated by a framed partition and the east chimney which, triangular in plan, incorporates back-to-back hearths arranged to heat the two secondary spaces. 20 How the original staircase was organized is not clear. The present stair, dating to probably the mid-twentieth century, is located on the north side of the main space and gives access to an attic. The attic is now divided into two rooms of unequal size, divided by a partition running north-to-south, the whole appearing substantially reworked. 2. Construction Exterior Walls: Except where interrupted by end chimneys, external walls are of load- bearing tabby cast to a common width of approximately Chimneys: The chimneys are made of fired red brick laid up in a somewhat irregular variant of Engiish tiond.

Lower levels of both chimneys were bonded into the adjacent tabby walls in alternately long and short patterns as the wall construction proceeded. Whether Jong or short. each brick nib corresponds in height with individual tabby wall pours. The broad om er face of each chimney features a simple decorative treatment 20 A similar plan is illustrated by the now substantially ruined Laurence Fripp House, located south of Orange Grove, St. Helena Island. South Carolina. Measuring east-to-west x O" north-to-south, this tabby built structure preserves a large. triangular chimney base. This feature projects into the building at one end and was clearly cast in concert with the ex1ernal walls.

Organization of the house is no longer clear but a large room flanked on one side by two subsidiary spaces with back-to-back heaths is more than likely. When the Lawrence Fripp House was built in also uncenain. bu1 details of tabby construction 1notably the use of 22" inch high forms tied with 1%"'diameter dowels) suggest a da1e just before or soon after the American Revolution. At the lowest level, the tabby external walls here are 20" wide. reducing possibly to JO" in width above. RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 8) consisting of an elongated diamond outlined by vitreous headers. Each large diamond is subdivided into smaller ones, again defiI1ed by vitreous headers.

Just above the head of the lower windows, bonding becomes more variable suggesting the gable and portions of the chiffi!ley stack have been rebuilt or seen extensive restoration. 3. Facade arrangement: The long, south facade incorporates five bays, defined by a pair of double-hung windows glazed with nine-over-nine lights arranged to the right and left of the central entrance doorway. Each window is approximately wide. The east and west facades each incorporate a single window flanking the chimney right and left at both the first and attic floor levels. The lower windows are double hung and incorporate six-over-six lights. All sashes appear to be modem replacements.

Civil War period photographs show that the upper windows were then similar, double hung and glazed with six-over-six lights, but the sashes have now been replaced with casements. Original organization of the north facade is obscured by mid-twentieth-century additions. 4. South Porch: The south facade is fronted for its entire length by a porch measuring 1 Y2" in width raised approximately 18" above grade on low tabby walls. Built at a lower pitch than the main roof, its shed roof is now supported by four slender, rectangular timber posts. These are replacements; Civil War period photographs dated to ca.1863 show six timber porch supports of a similar design. There is no balustrade visible in early views or present today. 5. Roof: The gable roof was rebuilt ca.

apparently following the line of the lost original. A Civil War period photograph illustrates three, south-facing gabled dormers, each enclosing double-hung sashes glazed with six-over-six lights. The present dormer~ are probably twentieth-century replacements and feature casement windovv5. PART III. SOURCES OF INFORMATION A. Plans and Early Photographs: No original or early plans are known. Several Civil War Period stereoscopic photographs of the main house and its slave settlements are held by Beaufort County Library, Beaufort, South Carolina. B.

Source document Quoted word for word from HABS SC-860. Not written, edited or summarised by this site.

Barnwell, Stephen B. The of American Family. Marquette: published for author, [Cole, Cynthia, ed.] His10ric Resources of the Low Country. Yemassee, SC: Low Council of Governments, RETREAT PLANTATION HABS No. (page 9) Dabbs, Edith M. Sea Island Diary: A History ofSt. Helena Island. Spartanburg: The Reprint Co., Harvey, Bruce G., Colin Brooker, David B. Schneider, and Sarah Fick. Beaufort County Above- Ground Historic Resources Survey ofBeaufort County, South Carolina. Brockington Associates; Inc.; Brooker Architectural Design Consultants; Historic Beaufort Foundation; Preservation Consultants Inc., Moussatos, Martha Ann. "The Hant's of Retreat Plantation." Sandlapper Magazine (October . :.. .: Rowland, Lawrence S., Alexander Moore, and George C. Rogers, Jr.

The History ofBeaufort County, South Carolina, Volume I, Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, Salley, A.S., ed. Minutes of the Vestry of St. Helena's Parish, South Carolina Columbia, PART IV. PROJECT INFORMATION This project was sponsored by the Historic Beaufort Foundation and by the Historic American Buildings Survey (HABS) division of the National Park Service, Paul D. Dolinsky, Chief, HABS. This report is one component of a larger survey of extant examples of tabby architecture within Beaufort County, South Carolina. The documentation was undertaken by HABS under the dir,ectiqQ.1 -'. of Paul D. Dolinsky with assistance from Virginia B. Price, HABS Historian, who , ; < worked with Jefferson G. Mansell, (formerly of) the Historic Beaufort Foundation, Ian D.

Hill, Beaufort County Planning Department, and Colin Brooker, Brooker Architectural Design Consultants, to identify subjects of study and locate them in the field in and Colin Brooker, whose research underpinned the project, wrote the historical report. Evan Thompson, now with the Historic Beaufort Foundation, assisted Brooker in the production of the reports. Jack E. Boucher, HABS Photographer, took the large format photographs. 'Nvri:f''' ' r