Green City (part 12 of 14)

THe FPrnat Ovurcome. - The radical changes in the nature of Akron's industries - the woolen factory, with its "sheep's gray legal-tender currency," having entirely disappeared - and the improved methods of performing and rewarding labor, that have taken place within the past forty years, has also brought corresponding changes in the nature and objects of labor organizations, in the process of which the old Mechanics' Associations, here and elsewhere, became obsolete. The fine collection of books constituting the library of the Akron Association, was generously turned over to the Board of Education, and became a part of the Ohio School Library, of Akron, for many years maintained by Legislative authority and State aid, the whole being subsequently merged in the present splendid Free Public Library of the city of Akron.

THe Lesson INcutcatsp.--Though there still exists a vast amount of unrest among the laboring classes, of the country, those of Akron and Summit county, by a close analysis of what has been here and heretofore written, will see that their condition and advantages are infinitely superior to those of their brethren of half a century ago, and that, with the same degree of economy and abstemiousness which we were then obliged to practice, they might, from the present emoluments of their yearly toil - excelling even their existing condition of comparative independence - soon achieve "capitalistic," if not "monopolistic" eminence and power.

To All

AKRON AND SUMMIT COUNTY IN CALIFORNIA - INDEPENDENCE AND ANNEX - ATION OF TEXAS - WAR WITH MEXICO - CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA - CAPTAIN JOHN AUGUSTUS SUTTER - GOLD FIRST DISCOVERED IN HIS MILL RACE - THE CAPTAIN UTTERLY RUINED BY GOLD HUNTERS AND SQUAT- - TERS - PENSIONED BY CALIFORNIA, IN HIS OLD AGE - THE WHOLE WORLD EXCITED - AKRON AND SUMMIT COUNTY EARLY ON THE MOVE - THE PLUCKY "FORTY-NINERS" - THE GREAT EXODUS OF 1850 - PRETTY FULL LIST OF LOCAL ADVENTURERS - INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY, THRILLING, LUDICROUS AND SAD - DEATHS FROM CHOLERA AND OTHER CAUSES - UPS AND DOWNS OF CALIFORNIA LIFE - FORTUNES EASILY MADE AND AS EASILY LOST - A CHAPTER FULL OF PRESENT AND REMINISCENT INTEREST TO ALL.

Acquisition Of California

"EXAS, formerly a part of Old Mexico, under the lead of General Samuel Houston achieved her independence, and established a separate government, in 1835. Though acknowledged as such by the United States, England, France and other foreign nations, Mexico herself refused to sanction the claim, and when, in December, 1845 the "Lone Star" was formally annexed to the United States, Mexico sought to reclaim the valuable territory of which she was being despoiled by force of arms. This precipitated the War of 1846, between the United States and Mexico, resulting not only in the relinquishment of the claim of the latter to the territory in dispute, but also in the cession to the United States of the immense territories of New Mexico and California, though early in the war the latter had been taken possession of by Generals Fremont and Kearney, and Commodores Sloat and Stockton,

CAPTAIN JOHN A. SuTTER. - Among the limited number of adventurers into California, previous to its conquest by, and cession to, the United States, was Captain John A. Sutter, a native of Switzerland, who, emigrating to the United States in 1834, had made his way via Santa Fe, to the Pacific slope, and having procured from the Mexican Government a grant for a large tract of land, covering the present site of Sacramento City, building a fort and making other improvements, had established himself as a stock grower and dealer in furs, hides, etc., surrounding himself with quite a following of Mexicans and native Californians, and giving to his ranch the name of 'New Helvetia." During the war his services to the United States troops were invaluable, and at its close Captain Sutter sought to do all in his power to aid and encourage immigration both from the States and Europe, not only with the view of advancing his own personal interests, but also of developing the agricultural and commercial resources of "Uncle Sam's" newly acquired possessions.

First Goip Discoverres. - To this end, in the Fall of 1847, he commenced the enlargement of the saw-mill which he had previously built, some distance above his fort, in doing which, while deepening the tail-race, in February, 1848, the man in charge of the work, named Marshall, observing yellow glittering particles among the sands of the race, submitted a portion of them to 'Captain Sutter, who in turn procured an examination to be made by such metallurgists as were available at San Francisco, who pronounced it gold of superior quality.

The news of the discovery spread like a prairie fire, and in a very brief period of time almost the entire population of San Francisco, and of the territory, were delving for the precious metal. As soon as vessels could reach other portions of the world, the wonderful stories told caused innumerable expeditions to be fitted out, and before the end of the year tens of thousands of adventurers, from almost every country on the globe, were ransacking the placers and gulches of California for gold.

Captain Sutter Utterly Ruined

So helpless was the hapless Captain Sutter, in the then chaotic -state of public authority and government, that his entire domain was staked off into claims and taken possession of by squatters, and the Captain himself would have been reduced to beggary in his old age, but for a pension of $3,000 per year, which was afterwards granted to him by California, he having settled in Pennsylvania in 1873, dying there in 1880, at the age of 77 years.

Summir County ExcirEep. - The golden reports began to reach the interior portions of the Western States, by the middle of the year 1848, and by the Winter of 1848, 49, expeditions of greater or less magnitude were projected in most of the principal towns in the Ohio and Mississippi valleys for the new Eldorado, the greater portion going overland, across the plains and mountains, others by water, via the Isthmus of Panama, while a few ventured upon the longer, but less perilous trip around Cape Horn.

Akron and Summit county were not, of course, to be left in the lurch in the scramble for gold, and in the Spring of 1849, companies for the overland journey were organized as follows: $

The first company, styled "The Akron Mining Company, started on the 7th day of March, 1849. It was composed of Lewis P. Buckley, John O. Garrett, Arza Kellogg, Russell Abbey, Ira Rose, Erhard Steinbacher, George Ayliffe, J. R. Gilbert, J. L. Gilbert, Charles Gressard, Henry S. Long, John Decker, Gilbert Carr, Louis Philtendorf, and P. Pisher - fifteen souls in all.

Rovure anp MopE oF TrAvEL. - Having provided themselves with substantial wagons, harness, camp equipage, clothing, bedding, and such needed supplies as they could obtain here, including of course, a full quota of rifles, ammunition, etc., they were driven, by hired teams, to Wellsville, from whence they proceeded by steamer, via the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, to St. Louis, and from thence, by another steamer, up the Missouri river to Independence, where they completed their outfit by the purchase of such animals - mules or oxen - as they deemed best adapted to the successful accomplishment of the long and perilous journey before them - horses and mules in about equal number being selected.

follows: Thomas B. Hickox (father of the late Mrs. Henry HBrown), Increase Sumner, Samuel Newron (father of Mrs. John Johnston), Frederick A. Nash, Nelson Palmer, William A. Ostrom, George W. Rhodes, Aaron S. Cleveland, of Middlebury, J. WOlmstead. Nelson Waite, Francis Watt and James Evans, ot stuason, and FE. Brooks, Samuel Farber and Samuel Brittain, of Elyria, also fifteen in number. This company, similarly provided as the first, and proceeding by the same means and route, on reaching Independence, fitted themselves out with ox teams, with such saddle horses as they needed, the bovines, if not quite so fast, proving quite as reliable as the equines, in accomplishing the journey.

By THE IstHMUS RouTE, ALso. - March 19, 1849, John Scupholm (or as usually called, John Addy), Jeremiah Yockey, Clark Elliott, Henry Prior, and a Mr. Benum and son, of Cuyahoga Falls, and at about the same time Nicholas Rector (brother-in-law of General George W. McNeil), Porter C. Rector, James G. Dow, Lucian B. Raymond, Charles G. and Thomas Caldwell and several other Akronians started via New York, the Isthmus of Panama, etc., for the same destination.

Though the overland route bristled with perils and hardships, the Isthmus route was, at that early day, far worse. There was, of course, abundance of transportation from New York, and other Atlantic ports, to the Isthmus, but the rub was to get fron? the Isthmus to San Francisco. There were, at that time, but two regular steamers plying between Portland, Oregon, and Panama, with long intervals between arrivals and departures, while coastwise sailing vessels on the Pacific were also few and far between-

Unscrupulous proprietors and agents of transportation lines upon this side would assure all applicants that there would be no difficulty in securing passage from Panama, as several steamers, which had been sent around the Horn, would surely be there in time to accommodate all. The transit of the Isthmus itself was filled with perils, hardships, disease and death. Arriving at Chagres, the only mode of travel to Gorgona, thirty miles, was in open boats, slowly poled or paddled up the Chagres river by nearly naked natives. From Gorgona to Panama, thirty miles further, the emigrant had to foot it through narrow, deep-worn mountain trails and almost bottomless marshes; the natives acting as pack-horses for the transportation of baggage, and sometimes of humans, upon their backs.

Finally arrived at Panama, then came the "tug of war." Waiting for days, and sometimes weeks, for a chance passage, their money rapidly diminishing for subsistence, many despairing of reaching California alive, would retrace their steps, while others, overcome by exposure and disease, would simply lie down and die.

Mr. NICHOLAS RECTOR'S RETURN. - About the middle of April, 1849, Mr. Nicholas Rector returned to Akron, the account given by him adding very greatly to the anxiety of those whose friends had gone by that route. When he left Panama there were over 3,000 emigrants awaiting transportation, and hundreds daily arriving, and not a vessel in the harbor. Passage tickets on the expected steamers around the Horn, as well as those already upon the coast, were held at from $600 to $1,200, a sum beyond the ability of the majority to pay, necessitating the securing of cheaper

Hardships Of The Isthmus Route

AKRON PLUCK AND P&RSEVERANCE. - Yet the majority of those who did not die upon the Isthmus, or upon the overcrowded ves- 'sels, upon which they finally did secure a passage, managed by "'hook or by crook" to "get there." i As a sample of pluck and perseverance, under the most appalling difficulties, the bitter experience of three Akron gentlemen may properly here be cited. Messrs. James G. Dow, Lucian B. Raymond and Porter C. Rector, after remaining upon the Isthmus several weeks, and until their individual funds were nearly exhausted, finally, by pooling their resources, managed to secure passage upon an old schooner. She was a poor sailer, at the best, and being laden largely beyond her capacity, and beset by head winds, calms, etc., her progress was very slow indeed, and, after being on the ocean nearly three months, and being reduced to nearly starvation rations, Messrs. Dow and Raymond, with many others, went on shore and footed it nearly a thousand miles up the coast, begging their scanty daily subsistence from the sparse and not at that time very hospitable Mexican population, and getting into San Francisco considerably in advance of the old tub in which they started, Mr. Rector,and others who remained on board, -during the last ten days out, having to subsist almost wholly upon wormy and mouldy beans.

THe GREAT Exopus or 1850. - Reserving, for the present, a -description of the experiences and hardships of the "overland" journey, we will only say of the Forty-niners from here, that, so far as known, all got safely through, though all did not realize their fond expectations of rapid wealth, while some laid down their lives in their efforts to secure a competence for themselves and families.

In January and February of 1850, Messrs. John O, Garrett, Russell Abbey, Samuel Newton, and one or two other members of the companies above named, returned, via the Isthmus, some ot them bringing such favorable accounts of their own and others' success, that the " yellow fever" soon began to rage, Tk BEACON, of February 27, 1850, in speaking of the intention of Messrs. Garrett and Abbey to return, editorially saying:

"About thirty of our best citizens expect to start overland for California within three weeks. They go under the lead of Mr. Garrett, and several will be accompanied by their wives. A number of our citizens also go by the Isthmus."

Tt should be added that in the intervening year, transportation. facilities between Panama and San Francisco had very greatly increased, while mule locomotion had been added to the western portion of the transit across the Isthmus, though tire horrors of that portion of the journey were not entirely obviated until the completion of the Panama Railroad, in 1855.

"Nearly 200 persons have left Akron and Summit county, during the past week, ria St. Joseph, Missouri, and a number more are making their arrangements to go. A large proportion of the whole number have hitherto been residents of Akron and among our most useful citizens - chiefly mechanics. About forty wagons left on Thursday last, making a fine procession. The streets were crowded with the friends of the fearless adven - turers, and many hearts ached as parting words weré uttered, and the train disappeared amid the roaring of cannon. Several females were in the company, and Mr. Garrett, the leader, who recently returned from Sacramento, took his whole family, intending to make a permanent settlement in California."

To show that Akron was not alone a sufferer, in the loss of "useful citizens," the same issue contains a clipping from a Massillon paper to the effect that a company of about the same size left Massillon the same week. And so it was all over'the Western states, and in fact the whole country, it being estimated that some 200,000 crossed the plains in 1850, besides the large contingent who went from both the East and the West via the Isthmus, to say nothing of the immense influx from almost every other civilized and semi-civilized country on the globe.

A ROSTER 'OF THE CALIFORNIA-BouNbD. - It will, of course, be quite impossible to furnish a stricly accurate list of all who composed the Akron and Summit county wing of this Grand Army, but from a list furnished THE BEAcOoN by Mr. Garrett, and the writer's recollection of the names of those composing his own company, who left a week later, and other data at his command, an approximately correct list from 1850 to 1852 is as follows:

Included in the foregoing list of fully 350 names are several residents of contiguous counties, who joined the Akron companies in crossing the plains and mountains, in 1849, '50, as well as quite a number who made their way to the Pacific Slope the two following years, during the writer's sojourn there, but doubtless omitting many whom he did not meet or have knowledge of. It may thus be safely stated that not less than 400 people went from Summit county to California during the years 1849 to 1852, while hundreds of others have wended their way thither, for business or pleasure during the intervening forty years. All who started, however, did not live to reach their destination - King, Stineberger and Smith, of Akron, Finch, of Richfield, and Cook, of Cuyahoga Falls, dying at or before reaching St. Joseph, and a number of others dying en route upon the plains or ocean.

It is proper to remark here that the majority of those who left this vicinity, in the Spring of 1850, enrolled themselves under the banner of Captain Garrett, by reason of his experience of the year before. Others, however, organized or united with smaller companies, the sequel showing that while proximity to numbers, en route, was an element of safety in passing through the territory of hostile Indians, moderate sized companies were more readily handled, more harmonious and more successful in overcoming the difficulties of the journey, and averting disaster to themselves and their animals, the liability to, and magnitude of, which will faintly appear in what follows.

The writer, with some forty-five or fifty others from Akron and vicinity, starting a week later than Captain Garrett's Company, by the same route and means, reached Wellsville, March 22, 1850, where, with wagons, horses and other property, we embarked on the steamer * North River," for St. Louis, the river transit occupying just six days.

OVERLAND THROUGH MissourtI. - Satisfying ourselves on inquiry that, owing to the backwardness of the season, we had a whole month to spare before it would be safe to start out upon the plains, and that mules and other needed supplies could be bought cheaper at St. Louis than at St. Joseph, we determined on making the journey through Missouri, some 350 miles, by land, instead of water, both as a matter of economy and accustoming ourselves and our animals to the work before us and them, as well as to enable us to remedy any defects of outfit we might discover before passing beyond the bounds of civilization.

Several members of the company had taken horses with them from home, but such mules as were needed had to be purchased there. The majority of the mules in the market were " green," or unbroken, and to say that the boys had lots of fun breaking them, would be drawing it mild, our present veteran drayman, Uncle "Dick" Smetts, at one time getting a whack upon the abdomen, from a pair of hoofs, that threatened serious results for several days, and at another time dislocating his shoulder in wrestling with a mule; while the dignified Judge Wheeler was doubled up like a jack-knife, and the serious-minded Deacon Jonathan F, Fenn, at one end of a lariat, with a gyratory mule at the other end, was straightened out like a whip-lash; and even the writer himself, getting a severe tap upon the knee that produced a painful limp for several days, and at another time, incredible as it may

Overland Through Missouri

The price of mules varied from $65 to $85 per head, for green, and from $90 to $100 for those broken to harness. The mess to which the writer-was attached, consisting, besides himself, of James Holmes, Robert Carson and John McKibben, bought two span of well-broken mules at $90 a head, which, with our four equally well-broken horses, taken from home, made us a most excellent team, and that, too, without the wear and tear of muscle and temper, to which the purchasers of the unbroken animals were Subjected, to say nothing of the detriment of the breaking-in process to the animals themselves. ;

_GeneEROous Hospiratity. - Having shipped the bulk of our provisions and luggage by steamer to St. Joseph, we were in readiness for a start from St. Louis, on Saturday, March 30. Meantime Mr. William P. Fenn, a former resident of Tallmadge, then the proprietor of an extensive dairy farm, six miles west of St. Louis, and directly upon our route, had invited the entire company to spend the Sabbath with him, which invitation was cordially aceepted, and right royally were we entertained.

On Monday morning, April Ist, we started on our journey, Mr. Fenn and one of his men kindly accompanying us far as St. Charles, a distance of twenty miles. Here we crossed the river, and, upon the north side of the Missouri, pursued our way leisurely to our final starting point, St. Joseph, then the extreme western verge of civilization.

UnpvuE Fastimprousnsss. - The many interesting incidents encountered in that slave-cursed State cannot be here given, for want of space. One, only, as bearing upon the later trials and privations of the journey must suffice. On the supposition that provisions of all kinds could be readily obtained from the plantations we might pass, we took very little with us, but found that, so far as bread was concerned, we could obtain none whatever, except in two or three villages which we passed through; every meal, from bread up, as in all other slave States, being literally prepared from "hand to mouth." Our wagon being in the lead, one day, we stopped at a way-side horse-power grist-mill, and bought half a bushel of coarse-ground corn meal. Judge Wheeler coming up, as I was pouring the meal into our provision chest, exclaimed: 'Lane, what in the world are you going to do with that?" "Make it into griddle cakes,' I replied. "But how are you going to manage to sift it?" inquired the Judge. "Cook it without sifting,' I replied. 'Well,' said the Judge, contemptuously, " You can eat coarse-ground, unsifted corn meal, if you like, but I was better brought up!" Before we get to our journey's end, we shall see.

ORGANIZING FOR THE JOURNEY. - - We arrived at St. Joseph, March 25th, finding that Captain Garrett's train, with about forty wagons and 160 men, had started out upon the plains some two or three days before. Loading up our supplies, which had been forwarded by water, we ascended the river about five miles, and, crossing over, encamped on a high bluff, in the Indian territory, where we remained a few days, visiting town daily, to put the finishing touches upon our outfit, one indispensable item of which was as much corn and other feed as we could haul upon our wagons, or pack upon the backs of our loose animals, for their subsistence, from the fact that not a single spire of the green grass that had been depended upon for that purpose, was yet visible.

Deeming thorough organization of the first importance, a meeting was held on the morning of April 27th, of which Captain Richard Howe was made chairman and S. A. Lane, secretary. At this meeting Captain Howe was unanimously elected captain of the train, Judge Samuel A. Wheeler, assistant, and Henry Anson, sergeant of the guard. James M. Mills, Ira P. Sperry and Jonathan Avery (of Adrian, Mich.) were appointed a committee on rules, who, the same evening, reported the following:

"Resolved, That, for the protection of our train, no member shall discharge a gun in camp, or put the same loaded and capped either into tent or wagon, without being so ordered by the officers of the train.

"Resolved, That each member stand guard as his name appears on the roll, and the captain shall have power to increase or diminish the guard as circumstances may require. :

"Resolved, That three hours be the time of standing guard, from 8 o'clock until daylight, to be divided into three equal watches, and that the roll be formed by taking one name in turn from each mess, as given in, the names to be taken in regular rotation, in the formation of the guard."

The list as given in, and the several messes originally constituting " Howe's train,' were as follows: Richard Howe, Edwin Gilson, Edward Waite, J. S. Jones, George Wilcox, Samuel A. Wheeler, Richard Smetts, William Smetts, Richard G. Howe, Augustus G. Babcock; Ira P. Sperry, Benjamin D. Wright, Philo E. Wright, Alvin N. Stone; James M. Mills, Henry Anson, Henry McMasters, William Denaple; John T. Good, John Cook, Michael Metzler, J. Waggaman; James Holmes, Samuel A. Lane, Robert Carson, John McKibben; John G. Carpender, Leander Titus, Felix Morgan, A. Nixon; Warren Clark, J. Vickers, Daniel Martin, Henry Martin; Owen O'Neil, James O'Neil, John Patterson, William Shaw, Hugh Boyd; Mr. and Mrs. Edward Dugan, Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhner; Jonathan F. Fenn, Leonard Root; Walton Hulin, James Boyle, (from Trumbull county); Elihu Chilson, J. M.. Sheppard, William Thompson; Jonathan Avery, Moses L. Gore, Philip Roberts, Henry Price, Morgan Brazee, P. O. Cook (the latter six from Adrain, Mich.); 56 persons, with 85 head of horses and mules, all told.

It should be properly added, here, that besides the messes,. above enumerated, a German by the name of George Bechtel, who had been employed in the warehouse of Mr. P. D. Hall, went through upon his "own hook," with a single mule, upon which was strapped his blankets and provisions, picking up, kernel by kernel, the corn wasted by our own and other trains, on which his. own mule was kept fat and sleek, while other animals, by the thousand, succumbed to the rigors of the jourhey and the scantiness of their feed.

Tue "Minirary'' Train. - While the great mass of the wagons. of the emigrants were covered with white or brown canvas, it so happened that the most of ours were covered with black rubber cloth, which fact, together with the circumstance that that prince of drummers, Henry McMasters, had his drum along, and our Trumbull county neighbor, Hulin, an equally skilled musician, had his tife with him, upon which instruments they would awake the echoes of the plains and mountains with soul-stirring martial music, nearly every evening, gave us the title, among our neighbors of the "Military Train," and possibly afforded us immunity from disturbance by the hostile Indians through whose hunting grounds we were obliged to pass, from which so many trains that year and the year before were annoyed and despoiled of their animals and other property, and often of their lives, upon the journey.

Camp Duty - Sranpinc Guarp, Erc. - But notwithstanding this supposed immunity, we by no means relaxed our vigilance. In a mess of four, two were assigned the task of caring for the animals, one as cook and the other as general utility man, by courtesy called the "chambermaid,"' whose duties were to pack and unpack the wagon, set up and take down the tent, make beds, gather fuel, water, etc. The captain, or his assistant, having by riding ahead secured a proper camping ground - usually selected with reference to proximity to feed and water - at about 6 o'clock would conduct us into camp. The wagons were arranged in circuiar form, with our tents between, and our camp-fires on the inside. On getting into position, the first care was for the animals, which were securely tethered by lariats attached to iron pins driven into the ground, the teamsters being sometimes obliged to go quite a distance to find good pasturage.

Meantime the cook skirmishes around for fuel and water, kindles his fire and prepares his meal, while the "chambermaid " unpacks the wagon, pitches the tent, unrolls and adjusts the bedding, sets the table, etc. - the latter piece of "furniture" consisting of a piece of oilcloth, about four feet square, spread upon the ground, the "crockery" consisting of tin plates, tin tea and coffee pots and cups, iron spoons, knives, forks, etc., with the frying pan in the center, surrounded by pans of rice, beans, bread, stewed apple, etc., from which each messmate, sitting flat upon the ground, helps himself, without stint or ceremony. And such appetites! Little wonder that the writer increased his avoirdupois over thirty pounds on that journey, fatiguing and wearing as it was.

At eight o'clock the stock is gathered up and securely picketed inside the ring, and then to bed. And we had beds, too. First rubber blankets spread upon the ground, then light cotton mattresses, woolen blankets, comforters, feather pillows, etc., and making it a rule to regularly undress, as if at home, except in cases of supposed danger, stress of weather, etc.

The night was divided into three watches - from eight till eleven, eleven till two, and from, two till daylight - when the camp was aroused by the firing off of the guns. Regular beats were maintained around the camp, at times a very hazardous operation, as was evidenced by the fact that a number of the guards of other trains were killed by Indians while thus on duty, either from sheer savage wantonness, or for purposes of plunder by stampeding the stock, as was frequently done.

breakfast, while the "chambermaid" rolled up the bedding, struck the tent, packed the wagon, set the table, etc. . The morning meal over, the dishes were washed and packed, the animals gathered in and tackled, and everything made ready for a start - the team first in readiness being the leader for the day; a halt of from one totwo hours being made in the middle of the day for baiting our animals and ourselves.

CoMMISSARY STORES, FueL, CooKiInG, Erc. - Our main reliance, in the provision line, was cured side pork and sea biscuit, what have since, in war parlance, come to be known as " sow-belly" and "hard-tack,''?' though each company was provided with such "luxuries," as the taste and purses of its members might suggest or warrant - corn meal, flour, dried beef, dried apples and peaches, coffee, tea, sugar, cheese, etc.

The most of the cooking was done over the open camp-fire, and was, of course, more or less seasoned with flying dust, and flavored by odors of the different kinds of fuel accessible to us - dry grass, weeds, green sage-brush, buffalo "chips," etc., for often, for hun- 'dreds of miles, not a twig or splinter of wood was within our reach; the "chips," by the by, being about the best fuel encountered upon the journey.

The writer's own mess was provided with a small two-story sheet-iron stove, with oven, boiler holes, etc., by which we were enabled to provide a variety of bakery goods - biscuits, short-cake, gingerbread, apple-pies, etc, that but few of our neighbors could indulge in - the writer officiating as cook through Missouri, and Mr. James Holmes upon the plains.

_ INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY. - To re-produce even the brief daily record of the journal kept by the writer, would occupy more space than could be given to it here. A few of the more salient incidents therefore must suffice. We left our camp upon the bluffs at precisely 10 o'clock on the first day of May, to the pluck-inspiring music of the fife and drum, our first objective point being Fort Kearney, 300 miles distant, on the Platte River, which we reached May 16, having averaged about 20 miles a day. Though we were almost at the head of the emigration that year, a record kept at the fort showed that 1,952 wagons and 6,152 souls had preceded us.

For the first two weeks, so backward was the season, we had to rely principally upon the corn and other feed carried with us, by the aid of sickles, hatchets, knives, etc., converting the prairie grass of the year before, mixed with middlings, into "chop" which the animals devoured with great avidity and seeming relish. Those who did not thus take along feed, had to depend solely upon this dry grass for the subsistence of their stock, which soon began to be painfully manifest by the constantly increasing number of dead animals along the route.

DEATH ON THE TRAIL. - On our fourth day out we saw our first grave, that of a man from Michigan, who died the year before. At the head of the grave was a small board giving name, age, residence, date of death, etc., the mound being surmounted by the huge branching antlers of a_prairie elk, with its prongs firmly implanted in the ground. This grave, on a knoll several rods from the road, had a deep-worn path to, and from it, indicating that nearly every passing pilgrim to the land of gold, paid a visit thereto, an unavoidable sadness pervading

_the minds of all who viewed it, lest in the long and perilous journey before them, they or their friends might share the fate of the one who had thus fallen at the very outset of the journey. The sight became a very familiar one, however, as we proceeded, many others of those who died the year before, from cholera and other diseases, with many fresh mounds under which were quietly sleeping those who, but a few days before, were as eagerly pursuing their quest for gold as ourselves.

BUFFALOES BY THE MILLIon. - Soon after leaving Fort Kearney, we struck the buffalo pasture grounds, "chips" for fuel being plenty, but for several days none of the animals in sight, except an occasional herd in the distance, seen from the bluffs. The day after leaving the fort, towards night, a solitary buffalo was descried a mile or two to the left, towards the bluffs, and our cook shouldered his rifle and sauntered off that way, thinking to get a crack at him, and then make his way towards the train. We went into camp at about the usual hour, in a small ravine, a short distance from the road, but no Holmes put in an appearance. The "chambermaid" got supper, the animals were duly cared for, bedtime arrived, but still no Holmes. By this time the camp was thoroughly alarmed. The drum was beaten and guns were fired .to guide the wanderer into camp, but still he came not. Thinking that he might have got bewildered in some of the gulches of the bluffs, a searching party was organized, which, armed with lanterns, guns, drum, fife, etc., started for the bluffs. Finally, at about eleven o'clock, and just before the return of the searching party, the lost one came slowly marching into camp, almost utterly exhausted. It appeared that on returning to the road about where we would be likely to be encamped, we were not in sight, being in a ravine as before stated. Inquiring at another camp for the " military train,' he was told that we were behind, and back he walked several miles, when he was told that we were ahead, and ahead he went to be again and again told that we were to the right or to the left, finally striking a company who told him that early in the evening the beating of a drum and the firing of guns was heard in a given direction, when. he marched right into camp. The unsuccessful searching party soon returned with sorrowful countenances, but when they learned that the lost was found, their sorrow was turned to joy, and tired as he was, and as we all were, an impromptu midnight jollification was held over the happy outcome of the adventure. Holmes kept pretty near home after that.

ANIMALS FricnTENED Orr. - Three days later, while lying by forlunch,an immense herd of buffaloes was discovered to be bearing directly down upon us from the north. All hands 'made a rush for the teams, but before all could be secured six head had pulled their lariat pins and escaped - two mules belonging to Mills and Anson, and two mules and two horses belonging to Kuhner and Dugan. The two former were recovered during the afternoon, but the four latter, after a thorough search of a day anda half, being nowhere to be found or even seen, it being stated by old buffalo hunters, that domestic animals thus frightened, will run with, and become merged in the herd from which they are endeavoring to escape. Having two large horses left, by such aid as was afforded them by other members of the train, the unfortunate couple, with

A Near MrcHANICAL OPERATION. - We were now far enough upon our journey to require occasional repairs upon our wagons. Several spokes had been broken out of one of the hind wheels of Wheeler's wagon, while it was becoming musically evident that the tires upon all of the wheels of our wagon needed to be re-set; but how could it be done, with no wood or coal, no bellows or anvil or other appliances with which to cut and shut the tire? But the skill of the practical carriage-maker and blacksmith at the head of the Tallmadge mess, Mr. Ira P. Sperry, was adequate to the occasion. Having previously supplied ourselves with the necessary timber from the crippled wagon of another train which was being dismantled, taking advantage of our involuntary delay while searching for the missing stock, stripping the tire from the wheels in question, new spokes were speedily adjusted to the one, and to compensate for our inability to contract the diameter of the tire, the diameter of the wheel itself was increased by tacking thin tapering strips to the outer surface of the felloes. Then the proper expansion of the tire was effected by the use of buffalo "chips" for fuel, and, when in place, contracted by the waters of the near-by creek, giving to the wheels, when cooled, as sound a ring as when first turned from the shop in old Tallmadge.

"SLAUGHTER OF THE INNOCENTS."' - During our day and a half sojourn, as stated, numerous buffaloes passed near us, and the hunters of our party gave chase, killing from twelve to fifteen of them, so that our entire train fared sumptuously upon fresh beef, so long as it could be kept from spoiling with the appliancesS we had. Of course we could use but a small portion of the slaughtered animals, some of them being too far from camp to be brought in, while other portions were given to the members of contiguous trains. Immense herds were also seen browsing upon the north side of the Platte, while many similar herds crossed our path, and were seen upon either hand, for several days, so that it is safe to say that we saw millions of the shaggy-maned bovines within the distance of 100 miles on this portion of our journey.

PERILS OF THE Murky Dergsp. - About 100 miles from Fort Kearney we came to the forks of the Platte, and passing up the left bank of the South fork about forty miles, crossed the river, and over a succession of steep ridges into Ash Hollow, on the North Platte. The South Platte, where we crossed it, was about half a mile in width, but the ford being diagonally across, just about doubled the distance. The water was about three feet deep, and extremely muddy, from the washings of the soft rocky-earthy bluffs through which*it runs higher up. It is the South Platte that gives its muddy character to the main Platte, which, in turn dis- <olors the Missouri and the Mississippi, both the North Platte and the upper Missouri and Mississippi, being as clear as crystal.

_ The South Platte, at the crossing, had a rapid current and a quick-sand bottom, with the exception of narrow bars of solid ground from fiteen to twenty rods apart. Once in the stream, men and animals had to keep moving, from one bar to another, or the sand would wash out from under their feet and down they would go. The animals, as well as the humans, instinctively realized the danger, and pulled for dear life, though an occasional one, weakened by travel and poor care, would sink down exhausted, and have to be pulled through by his companions, being sometimes drowned in the operation.

SUBLIMELY BEAUTIFUL. - The country between Ash Hollow and Fort Laramie, 150 miles, was lovely in the extreme, the broad and fertile valley of the river, being flanked on either side by high bluffs, to which, in the clear atmosphere of the region, distance lent the most delightful enchantment. These bluffs, as we approached and passed them, presented the appearance of turreted castles, handsome villas and magnificent cities, with their domes and spires, but a few miles distant, but which in reality were from twenty-five to fifty miles away. An occasional isolated fragment, Standing out in bold relief, would attract the curiosity and incite a visit from the emigrant.

The first of these was called "Court House Rock," which, as we approached, strikingly resembled the regulation stone court house, with a lofty dome upon its summit, two or three miles from the road, over a seemingly perfect level prairie. It was visited by thousands, mostly on foot, who found that instead of two or three, - it was seven or eight miles from the road, with deep ravines, and one or two considerable streams of water intervening. With several of our company, on muleback, I visited the '" Court House." We found it to be an irregular soft, clayey lime-stone formation, three-fourths of a mile around the base, and from 150 to 200 feet high, the "dome" being an almost perpendicular shaft of some forty-five or fifty feet in height, and fifteen feet across the top. Thousands of names of emigrants were carved upon the surface of this rock, from base to top of dome, the only one recognized by the writer being that of "William Smagg, Akron, Ohio, May 17, 1850," just ten days before our visit, indicating that our train and Garrett's were making about the same time.

Thirteen miles beyond, 'Chimney Rock," five or six miles from the road, is also visited by thousands. This was a conical mass of rock, about 150 feet in height, with a perpendicular shaft of 100 feet or more rising from its center, giving it, from a distance, the appearance of a huge factory smoke-stack.

Thirty miles beyond, we arrive at and pass through, a romantic chain, called " Scott's Bluff," which has been seemingly but a few miles ahead for four or five days, and twenty miles further brings us to Fort Laramie, 600 miles from St. Joseph; which we reached on the morning of May 30, having maintained an average of twenty miles per day, including the Sundays and other occasional days that we did not travel.

Though for the most part our road has thus far been seemingly almost upen a dead level, along the valley of the Platte and its tributaries, we have been gradually going up hill, Fort Laramie being 4,770 feet higher than the Gulf of Mexico, and at the base of the far-famed Rocky Mountains.

PROPERTY VALUES UPON THE PLAINS. - About fifeen miles this side of Fort Laramie, by the sliding of our wagon, in passing over a sideling gulley, one of our hind wheels was turned inside out, but we were fortunate in securing another wagon, from another company, for the moderate sum of $20. Transferring our luggage to the new purchase, we hauled the crippled wagon to the fort, with the view of getting it repaired, if possible. We indeed found a repair shop there, but as the fellows running it wanted $20 for filling the wheel, and would not promise to do it for two or three days at that, we sold them the wagon that we had paid $90 for, three months before, for the paltry pittance of $12, and pushed ahead, with the plainer and lighter, but stronger one purchased as above stated. A few days later we had the pleasure of seeing our familiar old wagon pass our camp, and on inquiry learned that its then owner' had traded a still heavier wagon for it, and paid $35. to boot. n

Ture Journgy A TEMPER TEsTER. - The overland journey was admirably calculated to develop the perverse and selfish instincts of human nature. If, as was often the case, companies found themselves overloaded 'with provisions or articles which they had thought to carry through for use on the other side, or concluded to abandon their wagons, tents, etc., and pack the rest of the journey, the universal practice was to destroy what they could not sell. Wagons would be chopped to pieces or burned; tents torn into: shreds, gun-barrels bent, chains, and iron and steel implements sunk in the streams, etc., it being reported of a well known Akron lady, that, finding she must dispense with her cherished flat-irons, she hurled them with her own hand, into the middle of a near-by river. ;

So, too, little differences of opinion in regard to train management, care of stock, selection of camping ground, lying by or going ahead on Sunday, etc., would develop into angry quarrels, that would not only cause some very circumspect people, when at home, to use extremely " sulphurous" language, but to frequently break up messes,'and sometimes entire companies, each member thereafter going it upon his own hook; broils of that character not ' infrequently terminating in bloody and fatal fights, or life-long bitter enmities.

Our little company was comparatively exempt from that class of disasters, and though splits were sometimes imminent, with a single exception the messes of "Military Train" remained intact to the end. Thé exception alluded to .was the sudden falling out between Mr, and Mrs. Kuhner and Mr. and Mrs. Dugan, the cause of which was never fully apparent to the rest of us.

On the Sunday morning after the unfortunate loss of their animals, as above detailed, while we were. encamped on the Platte river, getting into some trivial controversy, Kuhner's "Dutch" became excited and Dugan got his "Irish" up to such an extent that, before any of us were aware of what was going on, they had divided all of their effects, cutting and sawing right down through the center of the top and body of their splendid rubber-top wagon and converting it,into a couple of bob-tailed carts. Previous to the loss of their animals, as stated, Kuhner had purchased from an Indian trader, for his wife to ride on, an Indian pony, which he now harnessed up with his large horse to the cart, made from the forward portion of the wagon, while Dugan, mounting his horse, rode some ten miles to the bluffs, where he secured a couple of pine poles, out of which he constructed shafts to the hinder portion, and with these unique rigs they continued on with the train, the rest of us giving the women frequent rides on our

Poisonous Waters And Grasses

CALIFORNIA Prices ALREADY. - From Fort Laramie, the snowcapped peaks of the Rocky Mountains are distinctly visible, and their chilling influence, these last days of May and first days of June, uncomfortably apparent, for, though in midday the sun shines bright and warm, the nights are sufficiently cool to form ice from an eighth to a quarter inch in thickness upon our waterbuckets and the shallower streams of water of the vicinity. Passing over a spur of the Black Hills, forty miles brings us again to the valley of thetNorth Platte, which we follow, between lofty ranges of solid granite, about eighty-five or ninety miles.

At this point, 125 miles from Fort Laramie, we cross the river, which, earlier and later in the season, is easily fordable, but during the melting of snow in the mountains the current attains a depth and velocity that renders the fording process impracticable. Hitherto, in such an emergency, emigrants had, at great risk, ferried themselves and their effects over in wagon boxes, or on improvised rafts, as best as they could, the animals and many of the men, having to swim for it, many lives and much property being lost in the operation. But this year parties from the fort had established a ferry here, having five boats rudely constructed from the large trees found along the river bank at this point, and propelled across by the current, by means of cables stretched across the stream, and kept in proper tension by windlasses on either side, - the width of the river being about 300 feet. The ferriage fee was only four dollars per wagon, and twenty-five cents for each animal, the humans being generously crossed without charge.

At the ferry we found, upon a tree, the names of Hallet Kilbourn, Frederick Wadsworth, David H. Bliss, and several other Akronians, under date of May 27, showing that we were all making about the same speed, as it will be remembered that Garrett's train started ten days ahead of us, and it is now the 6th day of June. Many other names and messages were here and elsewhere inscribed upon the trees and rocks, indicating to following friends the progress that was being made, and the welfare of those ahead of them.

Porsonous WATERS, GRASSES, Erc. - A few miles from the ferry we started upon our heaviest climb, thus far, over the divide between the Platte and the Sweetwater, a distance of about sixty miles. In the intervening valleys between the two rivers, we for the first time strike the poisonous alkaline springs and meadows, so fatal to the animals of the emigrants. In one place we passed what, as we approached, looked like a lake of milk, but which proved to be a solid bed of what was found, by experiment, to be a fair quality of saleratus. In these valleys were innumerable poisonous springs, almost side by side with springs of pure and wholesome water, requiring the utmost vigilance, on the part of emigrants, to prevent disaster to themselves and stock, as evidenced by the hundreds of dead horses, mules and oxen visible to both the optic and the olfactory organs, on every hand. Emigrants of the year before, who had suffered from this cause, had thoughtfully posted cards indicating the more prominent of these poisonous spots, but many others were not thus indicated. One afternoon, while riding one of our ponies and leading two of our mules, I turned aside into what appeared to be a patch of nutritious meadow grass, while the train passed on. Allowing the animals to graze half or three-quarters of an hour, I started forward to overtake the train. Soon after reaching the road, I discovered that the pony I was riding was sick. He would stop, crouch nearly to the ground, retch as if trying to vomit, and groan as if in great distress. Hastily transferring the saddle to one of the mules, I pushed on as rapidly as possible, but soon found that both of the mules were affected the same way. Thanks to Mr. Russell Abbey, from his experience of the year before, we had provided ourselves with antidotes - tartaric and citric acids. On reaching the train, which had gone into camp, we drenched the three animals with a solution of the acid, and in fifteen minutes the mules were apparently as well as ever, and the pony a good deal better, though it was several days before he entirely recovered. Later on, when the very best water we could procure was more or less impregnated with alkali, we made free use of the acids in question, with great benefit to our animals and ourselves, our company getting through with every head of stock we started with, excepting those frightened off by buffaloes, as heretofore stated.

"TNDEPENDENCE TRock" - "Devit's Garr," Erc. - Soon after reaching the Sweetwater, a beautiful stream about six or eight rods wide, and from two to four feet deep, we cross to the north bank, and halt for lunch under the shadow of "Independence Rock" - a solitary mass of granite 1,800 feet long, 360 feet wide, and from 300 to 400 feet high, so named not only because of its standing on the level plain of the valley, independent of the neighboring chain of mountains, but also because one of the earliest trains that went through to Oregon celebrated the Fourth of July sat its base, and planted the Stars and Stripes upon its summit.

This rock was literally covered - not with patent medicine advertisements, as perchance it may be now - but with the names of thousands of emigrants, inscribed in every variety of style, color and material - white, red and black paint, tar, lampblack and grease, chalk, charcoal, etc., some being even chiseled into the hard granite.

A. short distance beyond Independence Lock, is what is denominated the " Devil's Gate." A sharp spur of the mountain, around which the river originally ran, perhaps being undermined by the current, had apparently split off, the outer portion filling up the bed of the river, and forcing the water through the cleft in the rock. The sides of the cleft were some 400 feet in height, and, being considerably narrower than the channel of the river on either side, the water rushes through with considerable force, and a roar resembling that of Niagara Falls ata distance.

Mountain Suerp, Goats, Ntrc. - Camping over Sunday, just beyond the " Devil's Gate," a number of our boys clambered to the top of the mountain, several thousand feet, where they saw range on range beyond, with broad, heavy timbered valleys between, which seemed the more singular from the fact that there was not a tree or shrub in the valley of the Sweetwater, except the odoriferous sage-brush. Many mountain sheep and goats were seen by the boys, but they were unable to approach sufficiently near to get a shot at them.

On The Summit Of The Rocky Mountains

Gop Exciremenr ExTrRAORDINARY. - At this point, also, great excitement was produced by the discovery of what seemed like innumerable particles of gold among the sands of the Sweetwater. The first impulse was to wash out a few thousands and return, but when it was found that the shining particles were much lighter than the sand, and would all float off on attempting a separation by washing, that project was abandoned and we concluded to push forward to the Pacific slope, where we could shovel up the big Jumps.

Snow-Ciap Mounrarns. - Leaving the " Devil's Gate" on Monday morning, June 10, we follow the general course of the Sweetwater nearly three days, fording it several times, passing between snow-capped mountains, and over a number of high ranges, on the top of one of which we found an almost level sandy plain, sixteen miles, without water; on another of about the same dimensions, several creeks and marshes, and snow drifts.

were visited with a furious storm of sleet and snow, and on the morning of June 13, found the water in our half-filled tin waterdish frozen solid. It was a curious sight, that, to see bright and fragrant flowers sweetly blooming on the icy margins of these slowly melting snow-banks, where a person could easily gather a snow-ball with one hand and a beautiful bouquet with the other. . " SQUEEZING THROUGH" THE SouTH Pass. - Crossing the Sweetwater for the last time, a short ten miles brings us to what was then, and perhaps still is, known as the 'South Pass" of the Rocky Mountains, and, what may seem singular, the five miles on either side is almost a dead level, and the road quite sandy. Indeed, so gradual is the ascent and descent, that the emigrant only knows that he has really passed the summit, when he finds the waters of Pacific creek running in the opposite direction from those he has lately been traversing. ;

And what of the pass itself? Instead of a narroav, rough, zigzag fissure through craggy rocks, it is a broad plain, eighteen or twenty miles in extent, north and south, our road being near its southern verge, and skirting along huge drifts of snow on the northern slope of the lofty mountain range to the south of us.

At this point we are 960 miles from St. Joseph, and 7,490 feet higher than the Gulf of Mexico, the extreme rarefaction of the atmosphere not only rendering it extremely difficult for men and animals to properly inflate their lungs, or to walk or work without panting, but also making it almost impossible to do any cooking, particularly beans and rice, water boiling at so low a temperature, as to have very little impression on that class of edibles.

DiverGING RoutrEs. - Eighteen miles beyond the pass, the road forks, the right being the old Oregon trail, via Fort Hall, and the left the Salt Lake road, the travel being about equally divided between the two routes. The most of Garrett's train, as we learned by cards posted at the fork, had taken the Salt Lake route, but our train, by a nearly unanimous vote, kept the old trail.

Three miles from the fork is the Little Sandy river, and six miles beyond the Big Sandy, after crossing which is a stretch of fifty miles, without water, and called a desert, though grass 1s abundant. Kept advised as to what was before us, by guidebooks, compiled by parties who made the journey the year previous, we took along as much water as our rubber tanks and other vessels could contain, thus obviating the serious suffering from thirst that would otherwise have occurred to ourselves and stock.

More JumMBo FEeRRIAGE CHARGES. - Getting down, by steep and difficult grades, from the plateau just described, we came to Green river, one of the principal tributaries of the Rio Colorado. The river was sixteen rods wide, and ordinarily fordable, though dangerous at the best, from the rapidity of the current, but now, from the melting snows, it was from twenty-five to thirty feet deep. Here, ten days before, Mr. and Mrs. Bruce Herrick, of Akron, lost their entire stock of provisions and other property, as did also many others, together with considerable loss of animal and human life.

But this year, just before our arrival, some Mormons from Salt Lake, and an Indian trader, had established a ferry here, with two boats, or rafts. Unlike the North Platte ferrymen, they had no cables, steering their crafts across with paddles, as best they could, landing fully a quarter of a mile below, and, after. unloading, towing the boats up stream, with a yoke of oxen, a sufficient distance to enable them to strike the landing from whence they started. The process was slow, from two to four days being required for the several companies to reach their turns. We reached the ferry on Sunday, June 16, about 1 o'clock P. M., not being able to remain in camp through the day, as was our custom, for lack of water as above stated, and our turn at the boats did not come until Tuesday morning.

The ferry charges were $7 for each wagon, and $1 for each head of stock, owners gratis. There being no feed along the narrow margin on the east side, the stock had to be taken to the west side for pasturage, the larger portion being made to swim the river, though many of the weaker animals were thereby lost, the tendency being to get confused, on reaching the middle of the rapid current, swimming round and round until exhausted. Our mess had taken along a small cow-bell, by the sound of which such of our animals as were permitted to run loose were taught to follow. Taking this bell across to a spot where we wanted our stock to land, and gently tinkling it as the animals were headed into the stream, they followed the sound straight across, and landed without an accident or hitch.

Snow-StormM - Packinc Manta, Erc. - On this Sunday night, June 16, though we have descended 1,240 feet, since leaving the South Pass, there is a fall of about five inches of snow, though the most of it disappears in the warm sunlight of the following day. It is now forty-seven days since we left St. Jo, and we are just about half way. Feeling that his progress is too slow, a sort of mania here seizes the emigrant to abandon his wagons, and tents, and pack, or else to lighten them up to the narrowest verge of safety, so as to enable him to increase his speed. Hence, not only large numbers of wagons, harnesses, tents, etc., were converted into pack-saddles and fuel, but clothing and other necessaries and conveniencies thrown away, and surplus provisions sold to such as were already short, the supposition being that by performing the last half of the journey in thirty days, instead of consuming a month and a half, as on the first half, a third less provisions would be needed to carry them through. On this hypothesis, though still retaining their wagons, several of the messes of our train sold considerable quantities of pork, hard bread, etc., at fifty or sixty cents per pound, which, being six or eight times their tost, was supposed to be a good speculation. Whether such was the case, we shall see before we get through.

All safely across the Tiver, and somewhat refreshed by our three days rest, we pluckily resumed our journey. A succession of rugged hills, the last range being the Bear River Mountains, with intervening muddy valleys, and difficult.crossings of 'creeks, brings us to Bear river, which, where we struck it, runs about northwest, but sixty-five miles further on turns abruptly to the south and empties into the Great Salt Lake, 150 miles to the southward.

AN InpIAN PuILosopHER. - A few miles before reaching the bend of Bear river, we passed a number of now celebrated soda springs, and geysers, including steamboat spring, in the bank of the river, ejecting at intervals of a second or two jets of water and vapor, with a sound resembling the puffing of a low-pressure steamboat. ¥ :

From the bend of Bear river, the old Oregon trail runs ina northerly direction, through a fertile valley, about twenty miles, and then over a low divide into the valley of Lewis' Fork, of the Columbia river, on which Fort Hall is situated, the road forking a few miles beyond the fort, the right keeping on northwesterly into Oregon and the left running southwesterly towards California.

The year before, as above stated, about one-half of the emigrants went via Fort Hall, the balance by Salt Lake. This year, however, an early emigrant, by the name of Sublette, had discovered a so-called "cut-off," by which, proceeding due west from the bend of Beaver river, over a succession of rugged mountain ranges intersecting the regular trail on the other side, about one-half of the distance, could be saved. Imbued with the desire to "get there" as quickly as possible, nearly the entire northern wing went that way.

' Having been advised by Captain Grant, an agent of the Hudson Bay Company, whom we met here, to go by Fort Hall, instead. of by this "cut-off," when we reached the diverging point we stopped to hold a" council of war." The train was about evenly divided in sentiment, when an old Snake Indian, who seemed to comprehend the situation, volunteered to enlighten us upon the subject. Pointing westward, by a motion of his hand, he indicated the number of high mountain ranges we would have to climb and descend, with rapid intervening streams to cross, as well as the scarcity of feed, by the Sublette route, and, by similar signs, the avoidance of difficult hills 'with plenty of feed, by the Fort Hall route, clinching his pantomimic argument by raising the bail of one of our water-buckets, to a perpendicular and tracing the circumference with his hand, and then laying it down on the edge of the. bucket, going through the same. motion, indicating that it really was no further to go around the hills than to go over them, while the labor for both men and teams would be less and feed far better.

We finally took the old Indian's advice, and though rather Jonesome, until we again fell in with the Grand Procession, we had no reason to regret our choice, besides lying by a day or two on account of sickness, actually reaching the junction ahead of many who left the bend of Bear river about the same time we did, thus demonstrating, anew, the old adage that "the longest way around is the shortest way home."

A Cuaracreristic IncipeNT. - In crossing Ham's,Fork of Bear river, a narrow but rapid stream, on descending the steep bank, by the mismanagement of our driver, John McKibben, the off hind mule became entangled in the evener and whippletrees of the leaders, and was thrown beneath the pole with his head under water. Holmes, who.was on the wagon, and Carson and myself, who were horse-back, rushed to the rescue, and by "sloshing around," waist-deep in the muddy water ten or fifteen minutes, succeeded in straightening out the tangle and saving the animal's life. : Tue Macic Cuerse. - Among the provisions taken from home by our mess, was a rich, fifty-five pound Tallmadge-built cheese. This, in a closely-fitting box, was packed in the bottom of the wagon. There it remained undisturbed for about three weeks, when, getting cheese hungry, Icut out a wedge of five or six pounds for present use, replacing the balance in the box. Two weeks later, in seeking to replenish our provision chest, on opening the box, I found the cheese apparently as perfect as when taken from the press. By brushing off the mould which had gathered upon the surface, I found where the cut had been made, took another wedge, precisely the same size, and replaced the box, as before. Another tortnight passes by, when a third requisition on the supply finds the cheese again whole, though by this time quite a visible diminution in the thickness of the oleaginous product is apparent, the constant motion of the wagon causing the pulpy substance of the cheese to settle and adjust itself to the dimensions of the box. Measures were then taken to prevent its further spread, a precaution that would scarcely be necessary with most of the cheese product of the present day. © :

A "PALE" Branpy Eprsopr. - While many emigrants took along, as a prime necessity, a good supply of whisky and other liquors - generally to their detriment - very little was taken or used by the members:of our train. Holmes, however, as purveyor for our mess, purchased, at St. Louis, a half gallon of pure pale _ brandy, for use in case of sickness or accident, the precious fluid being stored in a tin canteen. Stowed away in the lower depths of our wagon box, the " medicine" remained intact for about six weeks, when, unfortunately, the stifle joint of one of our mules. became dislocated. Thinking that bathing it with brandy might aid in keeping the weakened joint in place, when re-set, I extracted the canteen from the wagon, our good-natured mess-mate, McKibben - who with several others were watching the operation with watering mouths - saying: "Wull, I'm bound to have one good swug at it, onyhow!¥ But lo! and behold! on uncorking 'the canteen, the "pale" brandy panned out as black as ink - the fiery . liquid having, by corrosion, been converted into a very pronounced solution of tinandiron. The swiggers declined to swig, and finding no further use for it, as an external remedy, the residue was poured upon the ground.

SOMETHING AzBour INpIANS. - After passing the Indian agency and mission school for the Sac, Fox and Iowa tribes, thirty miles west of St. Joseph, the entire country traversed, before crossing the South Platte, was inhabited by Pawnees, though many of them having taken the cholera from the later emigration of the year before, they fought shy of us, and excepting a few about Fort Kearney, were only seen at a distance.

Beyond the junction of the north and south branches of the Platte, however, Indians were abundant. At the head of Ash Hollow, was a small village of the Sioux (Soo) variety, the stalwart chief greeting the emigrants with: "How! How! How! Do! Do! Do!" and an affectionate shake of the hand, and presenting a paper from a government agent asking for contributions to compensate the Indians for the loss of their cattle (buffalo, elk, etc.), grass and fuel, and nearly every mess chipped in a little pork, bread, beans, rice, sugar, matches, tobacco, etc., the collections for the day being stored on buffalo robes spread upon the ground. A few miles further on was a much larger town, with a herd of several hundred head of horses and mules and some oxen feeding upon the plains near by, many of which were undoubtedly stolen from the emigrants, for we had already met several companies returning home on account of having lost their stock. Quite a traffic was carried on here, a small quantity of provisions, tobacco, blankets, etc., purchasing a pretty good horse or mule, though they didn't seem to understand much about the value of money, and wouldn't pay any attention whatever to the cheap brass rings and trinkets, taken along by many of the emigrants for the purpose of traffic.

Mopeit Culinary OPERATIONS. - And then, such arrant beggars! Scarcely would we get our camp-fires kindled, than, if permitted to approach, would a hungry-looking squaw, with two or three still hungrier-looking youngsters, squat themselves down near-by, and watch our every movement while cooking and eating our meals, and by signs make known their anxiety to secure a portion of the savory viands, every morsel thrown to them being devoured with the greatest avidity.

And their manner of cooking! In the absence of larger fresh game, the prairie gopher - a little burrower between a squirrel and a rat - was found to make quite a palatable stew. Hunting fora mess one day, Holmes only succeeded in bagging one, which was thrown aside as not worth dressing and cooking. A full grown young Indian, by signs, asking if he might have it, on being answered in the affirmative, went to a neighboring camp fire, covered said gopher with hot ashes and embers for fifteen or twenty minutes, when raking it out and scraping off the ashes and singed hair with his fingers, he devoured the entire rodent, hide, entrails and all, with great gusto.

One Sunday, when encamped on Ham's Fork of Bear river, several members of our train visited one of the numerous villages of the Snake Indians found in the vicinity. While there, our wonderment at the large number of wolf-looking dogs they kept was solved by an old squaw knocking one of them on the head with a club, and, almost before it had done kicking, singeing off the hair, over the fire, and without further dressing, placing it in a large stone kettle to boil! J didn't stay to dinner.

Unroquse anp Fancirut Torets. - The eariier tribes passed were much better dressed than those encountered later - the adults among the latter being rather sparsely clad in dirty blankets, while many of the juveniles were entirely naked. Some of the adults, however, had become possessed of sundry cast-off "civilized" garments, the novel modes of wearing which, very greatly amused the emigrants. If a stalwart buck could secure a high plug hat, he cared for little else. A sleeveless shirt, a ragged coat, vest or pair of pants were to them mines of wealth. One strapping fellow had his long arms stuck through the legs of a dilapidated pair of pants, with the waistband buttoned around his neck, while a gay and festive young squaw had thrust her legs through the sleeves of an old red and white blanket coat, with the skirts fastened about her waist - her head being adorned with a rimless and crownless chip hat.

MurDERS, STRATAGEMS AND SporLts. - Notices were found posted, from time to time, warning us of depredations committed by Indians - stealing stock, and provision, killing guards, etc. As before stated, through our extreme vigilance, we were not seriously incommoded, but came very near it one night. There being no feed near the road, our entire stock was taken to a large meadow or swale, about a mjle from camp, and picketed there for the night, with an extra large guard for their protection. Though the night was bright starlight, the dense forest surrounding the meadow created intense darkness. Having eaten their fill the animals laid down to rest, about midnight, and soon not a sound was to be heard, save the tread of the guards, with an occasional word on meeting at the end of their respective beats. Just before daylight, without an object having been seen ora sound heard by the guards to produce such a result, every animal at the same instant sprang to its feet and made a frantic effort to escape, all in the same direction. Fortunately, however, the lariat pins all held, and not one of the seventy-five or eighty animals thus tethered, escaped. Lighting their lanterns and circulating among the stock, the boys ~ - little less frightened than the animals themselves - soon restored them to quiet, though many frightened glances were pointed in the direction from whence the alarm had apparently come.

Though nothing had been seen or heard by the guards, it was supposed to have been an Indian stratagem to stampede the stock, to be gathered in by them in the neighboring woods the next day. Many animals were thus lost, and hundred of emigrants compelled to abandon their wagons, and other effects, and with such subsistence as they could carry upon their backs, foot it the last 500 or 600 miles of their journey.

Forts, Troops, SHipwrRECK, Erc. - At Fort Kearney there were 175 soldiers, besides the officers and their families, and at Fort Laramie 200 soldiers with the usual complement of officers, women, and children, and quite a number of government teamsters, mechanics, etc. - about 250 souls in all. The new government buildings and property at Fort Hall, were guarded by a single soldier, only, the troops, owing to change of the current of emigration this year, and the trouble made by the Indians on that route, having been transferred to Fort Bridger, on the Salt Lake route. The original Fort Hall was then merely a trading station, occupied by agents of the Hudson Bay and American Fur Companies and their families, from whom we obtained a limited supply of milk

Serious Illness From Mountain Fever

The representatives of several tribes of Indians were found here, the Snakes predominating. Just beyond the fort were a couple of difficult rivers to cross, the Port Neuff, 300 feet wide, and the Pannack, 350 feet, both rising in the " Cut-off'? Mountains -and emptying into Lewis' Fork of the Columbia river. ;

An old Walla-Walla Indian and his son, mounted on excellent horses, volunteered to pilot us across these streams. Plunging into the Port Neuff, they showed us that the water would reach about Six inches above the bottom of the wagon boxes, making it necessary to raise the box up on blocks, resting upon the rocker and bolster, to prevent our supplies from getting wet, as we had often had occasion to do. Arrived at the Pannack, by the same process they showed us that to go straight across at that stage of the water, our animals would have to swim, in the rapidest part of the stream, but by heading up stream after getting into the water, and making a long circuit, it could be readily waded. All our wagons got safely over but that of Mills and Anson. The driver, William Denaple, inadvertently driving too far out, before turning up stream, the wagon box was lifted from the blocks, and becoming capsized, floated down theriver. By rushing down the river bank and plunging in, on either side, the boys succeeded in saving nearly everything, though in a decidedly moist condition.

DENTISTRY EXTRAORDINARY. - Compensating our tawny guides with liberal contributions of bread, sugar, tobacco, matches, etc., we soon after went into camp to give our water-soaked comrades an opportunity to "dry-up;" the rest of us exchanging as much of our hard-bread for their soft-bread, as we could consume before it would be likely to sour or mould.

Bight yeas before, the late well-known dentist, Dr. I. E. Carter, had inserted four nice porcelain teeth in the upper jaw of the writer, on hickory pegs. A too ravenous attack ona piece of our hard-bread had twisted off one of the pegs aforesaid, and while the drying process was going forward I thought I would see if I could not remedy the inconvenience occasioned by the absence of said porcelain incisor. Splitting off a fragment from the but-end of our well-seasoned hickory whip-stock, I carefully adjusted one end to the orifice in the tooth, and the other to the orifice in the jaw, and, after extracting the moisture with a little cotton batting purloined from a bed-comforter, on the point of my darning-needle, I placed the tooth in position and drove it home with a horseshoeing hammer, where it firmly remained for some eight or ten years thereafter.

Many other mechanical and "professional" operations were performed upon that journey, without either proper materials or tools, that would do credit to home skill and ingenuity, again and again demonstrating the well-worn truism, that "necessity is the mother of invention."

InunEss oF Mr. Sperry. - The so-called mountain fever, after getting fairly among the " Rockies," became quite prevalent, and many deaths from that cause occurred among the emigrants. Several of the members of our own company were more or less affected, the most serious case being that of our well-known fellowcitizen, Hon. Ira P. Sperry, of Tallmadge. The second morning after the mishap above recorded, Mr. Sperry was found to be too ill to travel, and the train remained in camp, a few miles below the

American Falls, on Lewis' Fork of the Columbia river, three days, Friday, Saturday and' Sunday. Impatient at the delay, the majority of our men voted to move forward, on Monday morning, whether Mr. S. was able to travel or not. Monday morning came andthe patient was apparently no better. The balance of the train accordingly pulled out - some of us with sad hearts - leaving Mr. S. and his mess alone in camp, excepting that Mr. James M. Mills 'took the place of Mr. Philo Wright, who was also quite | unwell, transferring Mr. W. to his own wagon; Mr. Jonathan F, Fenn, of Tallmadge, and his man, Leonard Root, also remaining behind.

It was understood that we should travel slowly, sothat if Mr.S. did get better they could overtake u's, notwithstanding which, and-the difficult nature of the roads, the end of the week found us on the further side of '"Thousand® Spring Valley," fully 150 miles from the point where we had left our sick friend, on Monday morning.

Tur FreveR Broxen. - Fortunately, the day we left him, Mr. Sperry's fever abated - possibly from the copious draughts of cold citric-acid "lemonade," administered to him by the writer, while watching with him the night before - and early on Tuesday morning, at his urgent request, making as comfortable a bed for him as possible in the wagon, his attendants again started forward with him, making such good time - keeping advised of our movements by the notices posted from point to point - that they came up with us at the place indicated above, about 5 o'clock on Sunday afternoon.

Mr. Sperry has since told me that he never before or since experienced such pleasurable emotions as were produced by the motion of the wagon as they started from that lonely camp. And no wonder! For three or four days he had been lying there, upon the hard earth, witha reasonable prospect that it would soon open to receive his lifeless body - away from his wife and children and every civilized comfort; abandoned by those whom he had so often laid under especial obligations, in the earlier stages of the journey; and 'now to feel that he was once more in motion; that though still very weak, he was improving; that his destination might possibly be reached; and above all, that he might once more be permitted to join his family and friends in old Tallmadge, were certainly emotions far more easily imagined than described.

STEEPLE Rocks - TueE Grorious Fourtn, Erc. - Soon after leaving "Sick Camp," as stated, we left the Oregon trail to the right, passing up Raft river (also rising inthe " Cut-Off" mountains) and the principal tributary, Rattlesnake river, with their innumerable muddy and mirey crossings, and on the second day, arrived at the junction with the cut-off road, when it really seemed as though we had got home again, one or two small trains, only, besides our own, having been seen on the Fort Hall route. On comparing notes, we found that, deducting the time we had laid by for sickness, we had made better time in reaching that point than those who had taken the so-called "cut-off." .

From Rattlesnake river, we passed over the low but rough and nearly barren range of mountains between the Rattlesnake river and Goose Creek, about twenty miles, passing the junction with the Salt Lake road, about mid-way when the grand procession again became a unit. , It was also learned," from the notes posted at the junction, and from conversation with emigrants, that the Salt Lake wing had scarcely made as good time as we did, while the hardships of travel and casualties had been ful y as great, their only advantage being in the opportunity to replenish supplies at the extravagant rates prevalent among the saints. . 'Just before reaching the junction, we found a series of curious granite formations called " Steeple Rocks" - blocks from twenty to forty feet square, being piled one on top of another to the height of one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet, or more, some of the columns quite regular, and others so over-lapping that seemingly a sudden mountain zephyr might topple them down. Camping under the shadow of these rocks on the night of July 3, on the morning of the Glorious Fourth, the day was duly remembered by a patriotic rendition of "Yankee Doodle" by our martial band, and and by a few extra discharges from our rifles, but though feeling pretty "independent," we could not tarry for a more elaborate celebration.

THOUSAND SPRING VALLEY. - The mountain range we had just crossed is the divide between the Columbia and Humboldt valleys. Soon after descending into the latter we reach the head of "Thousand Spring Valley," asandy but 'generally grassy basin about thirty miles in diameter, peculiar from the fact that the large number of considerable streams of pure water which flow into it from the surrounding hills, sink into the sand near the border, to reappear near the center in thousands of springs, or more properly wells, flush with the surface, some of them being unfathomable with any sounding appliances at the command of the emigrant. :

Tne Perstirenr Humpoipt. - Thirty miles from Thousand Spring Valley, brings us to the north fork of the Humboldt, and | thirty miles further to the south or main branch of that celebrated river, which at that point was found to be fordable, by raising our wagon boxes as heretofore indicated. The previous year, the emigrants had crossed and re-crossed the river its entire length, three hundred miles, at pleasure, but this year, by reason of high water, we were obliged to keep entirely upon its western or sterile side, often making long detours into the neighboring hills to get around impassable sloughs. Nearly its entire length, grass for our stock was only obtainable by swimming the river, wading through water:two or three feet deep, from one to two miles, cutting with sickles and knives, carrying it in bundles upon the back, and towing it across the river with ropes.

NEARLY A Fatau Swim. - Though less than one hundred feet in width, this river was one of the most dangerous streams to swim across, encountered upon the journey. Ina high stage of water innumerable eddies are formed, getting into the influence of which the most expert swimmer, being carried round and round, can make no headway, and soon becoming' exhausted, sinks to rise no more. One evening, Benjamin D. Wright, of Tallmadge, and Henry Anson and Warren Clark, of Akron, all good swimmers, having arrived with their back-loads of grass, started to swim across so as to be ready to assist in towing the bundles over, when the other grass-gatherers should arrive. Getting into an eddy in mid-stream, they were unable to extricate themselves, while we non-swimmers on shore were unable to render them any assistance with such appliances as we had. The boys were rapidly becoming exhausted, when, providentially, a stranger, from ,Michigan, came along, and comprehending the situation at a glance, divested himself of his clothing, and seizing the end of a lariat. 'between his teeth, the end of which, by splicing with others, was retained by strong hands on shore, succeeded in rescuing all of them from a watery grave. ;

It transpiring that the stranger's company, having lost their stock and provisions, were footing it through, and subsisting as best they could, he was gratefully taken into the Tallmadge mess, and treated as one of the family during the balance of the journey.

Hor Sprincs, Asues, Dust, Erc. - Innumerable volcanic indications had been seen upon the journey, notably in the neighborhood of Soda Springs, and at the head of Bear river. But the west bank of the Humboldt, for three hundred miles, was little else than solid packed scoria and ashes. The ashensage-bush bottoms in the traveled road, were worn down from six to twelve inches, and the plod, plod of the animals, and the continuous grinding of the wagons raised a cloud of fine alkaline dust that permeated everywhere and everything - eyes, ears, nose, moth, clothing, provisions, etc., making the emigrant, with his best efforts at cleanliness, a fit companion, externally, for the " Digger" Indians, the most squalid and filthy of all the tribes encountered, who infested the last four or five hundred miles of our journey.

At several points, especially at the foot of several volcanic hills over which we passed, hot springs were to be found almost side by side with springs of normal coolness. It was said of a Teutonic member of a neighboring train, that lying down to drink from the first of these warm springs encountered, on nearly scalding the tip of his nose, he sprang to his feet and exclaimed: "Trive on, poys! Trive on! for hellish not more as two miles from dish blace!"

A Harvest oF DesrirutTion. - It was along this river that the most destitution and suffering prevailed among the emigrants. Brackish from the start, the water becomes largely impregnated with alkali, from the volcanic rocks and ashen soil through which it passes, and the innumerable alkaline springs adjacent thereto. Hundreds, and perhaps thousands, are without teams or provisions, and many without money with which to buy, even had their more fortunate neighbors provisions to sell, and later in the season scores were driven to the necessity of eating their own famished horses and mules. : tmet

The most of our company, though running out of "sorts," generally had enough to prevent serious suffering, and one or two had some provisions to sell generally, in such cases, favoring the members of our own train, though suffering no outside applicant for a bite to go unrelieved.

_ Tue "LAw" or THe PiLarms. - Speaking of selling brings us to prices and the mode of adjusting differences, and dispensing justice upon the plains. At any time after reaching the Humboldt Valley, all kinds of provisions - bread, flour, meat, rice, beans, pork, sugar, etc.,sold readily at a dollar per pound,a pint of all the measurable articles named being counted a pound. On reaching that point in the river, where grass had to be obtained from the opposite side, a member of the company who could not swim, but who had a surplus of bread, made a bargain with the boys of another mess, who were running short, that if they would supply him with grass, he would pay them in bread - a pound for each back-load. The grass was accordingly furnished from day to day, as long as the necessity therefor existed, but when, a few days later, the boys demanded their bread, they were tendered a dollar a load in money, the party of the first part declaring that he had no bread to spare. This the boys refused to receive - they had not risked their lives to obtain the grass for money, but for bread, and bread they would have. :

In the course of the discussion it transpired that the surplus bread promised to the boys had been sold to outside parties, for $2 a pound, but as it was worth only one dollar when the bargain was made and the grass furnished, that was all that he would pay them. Things were assuming a serious aspect, when other members of the company proposed that the matter be settled by arbitration, which was agreed to, each party choosing an arbitrator and the two the third.

The "High Court" being duly organized, the statements of the parties were listened to, and other evidence adduced, and the general summing up and verdict of the arbitrators was about this: First, that a fair-sized back-load of grass, obtained in the manner indicated, was worth more than a pound of bread; second, that.if a pound of bread was worth $2 in money, a load of grass was worth $2.50, and that in the absence of bread, the defendant must pay to the plaintiffs, at that rate, in money, for the quantity of grass furnished. The defendant put in a demurrer after judgment, but finding that the verdict of the arbitrators was approved by the balance of the members of the train, the money was reluctantly paid over.

SEQUEL TO THAT BrETrer "BrouGuTEN Up."' - Apropos of the bread question, and of the general shortness of provisions at this stage of our journey, recalls the unsifted corn-meal episode of Missouri, and a subsequent incident which demonstrates anew the aphorism, that "circumstances alter cases." It will be recollected that we all took along a supply of corn for the subsistence of our animals, in the absence of grass, on the first part of our journey. Knowing that we had at least one forty-mile desert to traverse, 'without grass or water, further on, the most of us had reserved a small portion of grain to help us over that hard spot.

While not entitely out of provisions, the Wheeler and Howe messes began to run pretty short of "sorts," particularly of bread. A. day or two before reaching the desert, looking across the camp, I saw Judge Wheeler and his boys vigorously twisting away at the coffee mill attached to the box of one of their wagons. Ondrawing near I found them grinding the corn which had been hauled 1,500 miles to feed to the mules upon the desert, then almost in sight.

"Hello, Judge! What are you going to do with that?" I inquired. "Make it into griddle cakes," said he. "But how in the world will you manage to sift it?" Lasked. " Kat it without sifting," responded the Judge. '" Well," said I, with a grin, "you can eat coarse, coffee-mill-ground corn meal, without sifting, if you choose to, but I was better brought up!" The Judge goodnaturedly "acknowleged the corn " by saying that T had fairly

Humporpt Sink, Desert, Erc. - The minor peculiarities of the pestilential Humboldt, are above faintly set forth, but its chief characteristic remains to be mentioned, in that, in a run of perhaps 400 miles it suddenly disappears on the northern verge of a fortymile desert lying between itandCarsonriver. This year, however, the "sink" - an extensive marsh - by reason of extra high water, had spread itself out into sloughs, several miles on to the desert, making the distance to be traveled, in crossing it, from five to ten miles further than in ordinary seasons.

It is now the 23rd day of July, and though the mountains to the right and left are coveréd with snow, it is almost suffocatingly hot'in the valley and on the desert. It is the better plan, therefore, to make as much of the journey across at night as we possibly can. Arriving at the sink about ten o'clock in the morning, we rest there until five o'clock in the afternoon, in the meantime having provided ourselves with a supply of dry grass, and as much water as we have vessels for.

Starting out with comparative freshness, we hope to reach the Carson soon after daylight the next morning. The first twenty miles were, like the valley of the Humboldt, of a solid ashen foundation, sparsely covered with sage brush; then about two miles of heavy sand, then five or six miles of sage brush, and the remainder, sixteen or eighteen miles of heavy fine sand, unrelieved by a single shrub or blade of grass or other vegetation. Ten miles out we stopped two hours to feed and rest, and ten miles further - on the narrow strip of sand spoken of - two hours and a half, by this time using up nearly all our feed and water, and yet not half way across.

MOONLIGHT AND PortTry. - The night was clear and bright - just the full of the moon - a night well calculated, in spite of adverse surroundings, to inspire poesy and melody in the most prosy mind. Our four mules and the two larger horses were attached to the wagon, which for the first twenty miles was in charge of Carson and McKibben, while to Holmes and myself was assigned the care of the two ponies, the weakest of the eight. As along the Humboldt, dead animals line the road on either hand, by actual count fully twenty to the mile.

"The moon had climbed the highest hill That rises o'er the source of Dee," suddenly broke out: "The moon had climed the highest hill! Hesitating a moment, here, I caught up the refrain by adding: "That rises o'er the Humboldt sink" - Holmes continuing : "And as we travel o'er the plain " - T completing the stanza ;:

The Terrors Of The Desert

ABANDONING WaGoNS ON THE DusertT. - On striking the first belt of heavy sand, Wheeler and Howe were compelled to leave their wagons to save their animals; out of the abandoned material constructing pack-saddles for the transportation of provisions, clothing, and such other necessaries as they must carry along.

Striking the sixteen-mile stretch of sand about daylight, our progress was slow and fatiguing in theextreme. Leaving Holmes with Carson and McKibben, to manage the wagon, I started forward alone, with the two nearly done-over ponies, having almost literally to pull them along by main strength. Six miles out upon this burning sandy desert, a couple of enterprising emigrants had established a water station - hauling water from the Carson river, and selling it to their famishing comrades at twenty-five cents per quart. Happening to have a loose quarter about me, I bought a quart, gave about half of it to the two ponies and divided the balance between myself and a stranger who was destitute of money, and who afterwards told me that but for that drink of+ water he should never have got through alive.

Tie Lirg-INvicoratinc CArson. - Thus refreshed, with my two ponies I pushed, or rather pulled forward, but when a mile or two further on the sagacious animals seem to sniff the fresh waters and grasses of the Carson Valley, and pricking up their ears, and quickening their pace, I had to step quite lively to keep up with them the last two or three miles. -

I reached the river about 11 o'clock and by noon our entire company, with every animal alive, were snugly encamped in the grateful shade of the immense cotton-wood trees that lined the banks of the Carson river at this point.

The thirst created by that last sixteen miles of desert travel,. between broiling sun and blistering sands, was fearful to contemplate - men plunging into the river and drinking like cattle, while the animals themselves, if not restrained, would rush into the middle of the river, and, turning their heads up-stream, literally let the water run down their throats.

RELIEF STATIONS - SrECULATORS, Erc, - Here, in the Carson Valley, we met so-called relief trains - speculators, who, in anticipation of the distress which would prevail among the emigrants, had come from Sacramento with provisions, "whisky," and other necessaries, which they sold at high figures to such as had money, but giving, in limited quantities, to such as were destitute - their prime object being to buy the famished animals of the emigrants at low figures, and recruit them for the California market.