Santa Fe, Texas - Narrative of the Texan Santa Fé Expedition, Comprising a Description O (part 3 of 9)

Were the earth rending and cleaving beneath their feet, horses, when under the terrifying influence of a stampede, could not bound away with greater velocity or more majestic beauty of movement. I have seen many an interesting race, but never anything half so exciting as the flight of a drove of frightened horses. The spectator, who may possibly have a nag among them which he has been unable to get into a canter by dint of spur and W7hip, sees his property fairly flying away at a pace that a thorough-bred racer might envy. Better " time," to all appearance, he has never seen made, and were it not that he himself is as much astounded as the horses, there might be very pretty betting upon the race.

On one occasion, when a closely-hobbled horse was rushing madly along the prairie under the influence of fright, his owner coolly remarked, "I wish I could make that critter go as fast on my own account without hobbles, as he can on his own with them - I'd gamble on him sure" And so it is. No simile can give the reader a fair conception of the grandeur of the spectacle, and the most graphic arrangement of words must fall far short in describing the startling and imposing effect of a regular stampede !

While upon this subject, I should not, perhaps, neglect to notice one of the little private stampedes my friend Falconer's horse was in the habit of occasionally getting up, principally on his own individual account and to gratify his own peculiar tastes and desires, entirely regardless, all the while, of his master's convenience as well as of the public safety.

He was a short, thick-set, scrubby, wiry nag, tough as a pine knot, and self-willed as a pig. He was moreover exceedingly lazy, as well as prone to have his own way, and take his own jog - preferring a walk or gentle trot to a canter ; and so deep-rooted were his prejudices in favour of the former methods of getting over the ground, that neither whip nor spur could drive him from them. He possessed a commendable faculty of taking most especial good care of himself, which he manifested by being always found where water was nearest and the grass best, and on the whole might be termed, in the language of those who consider themselves judges of horse flesh, a " tolerable chunk of a pony" for a long journey.

He had one bad quality, however, which was continually putting his master to serious inconvenience, and on more than one occasion came near resulting seriously to all. One day we stopped to " noon" close by a spring of water, and had simply taken the bridles from our horses to give them a chance to graze, when he improved the occasion to show off one of his eccentricities. Falconer had a way, as I have before stated, of packing all his scientific, cooking, and other instruments upon his horse, and on the occasion to which I have alluded, some one of them chanced to chafe or gall the pony, inducing him to give a kick up with his hinder limbs. The rattling of the pots and pans started him off immediately, and the faster he ran the more they rattled. We immediately secured our horses by catching up the lariats, and then watched the fanciful antics of the animal that had raised all the commotion.

He would run about ten jumps and then stop and kick up about as many times ; then he would shake himself violently, and then start off again on a gallop. Every now and then a culinary or scientific instrument would be detached from its fastenings, when the infuriated pony would manage to give it a kick before it struck the ground and send it aloft again. The quadrant took the direction towards the sun without taking it ; the saucepan was kicked into a stew ; the thermometer was up to 100 - inches above the ground, and fell to - worth nothing. To sum it all up, what with rearing, pitching, kicking, and galloping about, the pony was soon rid of saddle and all other encumbrances, and then went quietly to feeding, apparently well satisfied with all the trouble he had given his owner.

The whole affair was ludicrous in the extreme, defying description. The rattling of the tin, earthen, and other ware, as the pony snorted, kicked, and pranced about, made a noise resembling that produced at a charivari. His antics were of the most unseemly nature, too - and the cool philosophy of Mr. Falconer, as he quietly followed in the wake of the vicious animal, picking up the fragments scattered along, completed a picture which would have made the fortune of Cruickshank had he been on the spot to take it down. Some time after this adventure the Indians stole the horse, but they made a bad bargain of it

The Valley of Cedral Creek. - Singular Natural Road. - Another Delay. - Arrival of General McLeod with additional Cattle. - The March resumed. - Bad Travelling. - Delicious Spring of Water. - Valley of the Brazos. - Fondness of our Animals for its Waters. - Crossing the Brazos. - Prairie on Fire. - Out of Water again. - Sufferings of Man and Beast. - A cool Spring discovered. - Natural Bathing-tub. - Fresh Indian " Sign." - A recently-deserted Village. - Trick of a Wag. - The Camanche Peak. - " Seeing the Elephant." - The " Cross Timbers." - Description of this singular Forest. - Arrival at Noland's River. - Destruction of our Tents. - The crossing of Noland's River. - Deserted Indian Village. - Latitude and Longitude taken. - In the Midst of our Troubles - Our last Day in the " Cross Timbers." - A gloomy Night. - Once more upon the open Prairie. - A hearty Meal. - Speculations as to the Route we had taken. - The Banks of Red River supposed to be visible.

ON the evening of the 6th of July, the day after the stampede mentioned in the preceding chapter, we encamped in a rich and beautiful valley through which Cedral Creek meandered. Our descent into this valley was down the sides of a steep hill, and by a road so perfect that it seems almost impossible nature had any hand in making it. From the top we had a fine view of the romantic valley far below us, which was studded here and there with clumps of trees, ivhile in the distance a dim outline of mountains and the wooded bottoms of the Brazos relieved the eye.

A Natural Road

down the steep declivity, but the spies soon found that there was a regular road winding down the sides, and by means of this we descended with ease and safety. For some two miles there was every appearance of a regular excavation on the upper, and of an embankment thrown up on the lower side of the hill ; and if this road, upon which there was little vegetation, is really the work of nature, it may be put down as one of her strangest doings. Had it not been accidentally discovered we should not have made the descent without great labour, if at all.

Some of the wagons needing repairs, and our present encampment affording every facility for that purpose, it was resolved to remain here until General McLeod should arrive, and with him the additional cattle for our subsistence. On the afternoon of the 8th we were all overjoyed to see the expected party winding their way down the singular natural road which we had travelled two days previous. General McLeod now resumed the command, and ordered us to make every preparation for an early start on the following morning. Our course, up to this time, had been north, varying a little to the east, perhaps, as the broken and hilly country intervened. The object of Mr. Rowland, our guide, was to cross the Brazos at the nearest practicable point, and follow up between the waters of that stream and the Trinity.

After travelling some sixteen miles on the 9th, to gain certainly not more than half that distance, we were fortunate in reaching a small spring of water. Our progress had been considerably impeded and made devious and tiresome by deep gullies and runs. The ensuing night we encamped upon the banks of a small creek of fresh water, emptying into the Brazos. This latter stream was now but a few miles to our right, its rich and fertile bottoms, flanked by a heavy growth of timber, being plainly visible.

Our route, on the llth of July, was along a chain of rough hills which separate the valley of the Brazos from the prairies. During the day, several wagons were in some way broken and injured, and it was only after a tedious and toilsome march that we were enabled to reach a cool and delicious spring of water, and find good pasturage for our jaded horses and oxen. Here we found 'grass in great abundance, and as many of the wagons were again in need of repairs, we remained until the 14th.

The location upon which we were encamped, being in the edge of the timber, with rich prairie directly in front of us, was one of the finest we had yet met on our route. The valley of the Brazos at this place abounded with every species of timber known in Texas ; grapes, plums, and other fruit were found in profusion ; honey could be obtained in almost every hollow tree ; trout and other fish were plentiful in the small creeks in the neighbourhood, and the woods and prairies about us not only afforded excellent grazing for our cattle and horses, but teemed with every species of game - elk, deer, bears, wild turkeys, and, at the proper season, buffalo and mustang. No fresh Indian " sign" was discovered, but the year previous a large body of Cherokees or Wacoes had evidently made the neighbourhood their home, old tent poles being found still standing near our camping-ground, as well as corn-fields which had been cultivated the year before.

As I have said, we were encamped by a cool and delicious spring of never-failing water. Some half a mile distant, in an eastern direction, the Brazos mean- dered along, whose salt and brackish waters, although unpalatable for man, were swallowed with avidity by both horses and cattle. Indeed, so fond were the latter of this water that they drank incredible quantities of it, and could hardly be induced to leave the stream the first time they were taken to it. At certain periods of the year the prairie Indians visit the salt streams of Texas, considering the waters highly beneficial to their stock.

We crossed the stream on the 14th, after much difficulty from the quicksands and high banks. The wagons all over, we stopped for an hour or two under the shade of some oaks that skirted the border of the valley, and here, for the first time, I saw the magnificent spectacle of a prairie on fire. It wa's purely accidental, and caused us little damage ; but had the wind been in a different direction it would have swept the whole face of the country for miles and miles in advance. The dry grass flashed up like powder, and the fire spread over the prairie with alarming speed. At first an attempt was made to extinguish it, by means of switches made of green boughs and bushes ; but those who exerted themselves in this way returned from the task with singed whiskers, eyebrows, and hair, and without having effected anything.

We pursued our journey in the afternoon, and reached a mud-hole - for it could not be called anything else - where we encamped. All night the long and bright line of fire, which was sweeping across the prairie to our left, was plainly seen, and the next morning it was climbing the narrow chain of low hills which divided the prairie from the bottoms of the Brazos.

July. After a tortuous and tedious march, over a dry prairie ridge, we were finally obliged to encamp without water. Of course we suffered most intolerably ourselves, after having travelled all day in a hot sun ; but the cattle and horses felt it even more seriously. At night the guard found great difficulty in herding and keeping them together, so anxious were they to start off in search of water, and the next morning the horses had a wild expression about the eyes, combined with an uneasiness and fretfulness, which forcibly told their suffering.

Our start in the morning was early, and eagerly did we press forward with the hope of finding water. No breakfast had been cooked, as eating only tended to increase a thirst which was already distressing. Late in the afternoon, and when we had almost despaired of finding water, one of the spies returned with the joyful intelligence that a large and cool spring had been discovered but a little way off our course. The line of march was now instantly broken ; for those who had good horses dashed madly forward, while the drivers bestowed heavy blows, and imprecations if possible more horrible than ever, upon their tired cattle, to press them onward. In small straggling parties we reached the goal of our hopes. A ledge of rocks, from which cool and limpid water was gushing in all directions, formed the head of the spring, and a few yards below the different branches fell into a common basin some twenty yards in width, and filled to the depth of eight or ten feet with the transparent element. A purling stream was here formed, which carried the surplus waters of the beautiful reservoir to mingle with the brackish current of the Brazos - a base and most unnatural union.

Our thirst was slaked at the very fountain-head - the basin was converted into an immense bathing-tub, where all hands enjoyed the invigorating luxury of a bath. My ankle was still much swollen, and so sore that I was unable to use it in the least ; but I made out to hobble to the basin on one foot, and gained great strength by lying at the edge and allowing one of the cool streams from above to fall upon the lame part. The next morning, after enjoying another bath, we left this delicious spring with regret, and pursued our journey with no prospect of water before us. We were fortunate enough, however, to reach a small branch of running water at nightfall, upon which we encamped.

Our camp was hardly formed before Captain Caldwell, or " Old Paint,"* as he was generally called, returned with the spy company, and reported that he had fallen in with an Indian camp which apparently had been deserted but a few hours. The duties of the spy company, I might here add, were to keep one day in advance of the main body, for the purpose of picking out the best road for the wagons, finding water, and keeping a look-out for Indians. Captain C. brought in a number of roasting ears, and stated that he found many unripe melons and pumpkins among the corn.

* Captain Caldwell received the soubriquet of " Old Paint," from the fact of his naturally dark hair, whiskers, and beard being covered with large white spots. In Texas, and some of our Southern States, a horse or other animal which is spotted is called a " paint." Captain C. was an old backwoodsman, had been engaged in conflicts almost innumerable with the Mexicans and Indians, and was what is termed in Texas an excellent " rough fighter" and hunter. He was one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence of Texas, and many of his daring achievements are often recounted in that country. He was released, with the other Texan prisoners, and returned to his family at Gonzales ; but on the invasion of Texas in 1842, by General Woil, he recruited a company and defeated that officer at the Salado. The following winter he died, much regretted by all who knew him.

While on Little River, a report had been sent to General McLeod that a large party of Cherokees, Caddoes, and individuals of other tribes, all hostile to Texas, had planted themselves in a large and fertile bend of the Brazos above the Camanche Peak, and that they had extensive and well-cultivated fields, besides a large number of horses and mules. At first it was determined to go somewhat out of our way and attack this party in their stronghold, for it was said that they were well fortified ; but upon after thought it was feared the detention would be too great, and the adventure was given up. It was now evident enough that we were in the vicinity of these hostiles, and at night strict orders were given the guard to be on the alert to prevent a surprise, or our horses and oxen from being stampeded and driven off.

The next day we made but five or six miles on our journey, and encamped near several mineral springs, the waters of which were strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur. The scull of a white woman, but recently killed, was found in the vicinity, and large and fresh Indian trails were discovered running in the direction of the Brazos. We also passed through a recentlydeserted Indian camp upon the march, the bark wigwams still standing, and many of the implements generally seen in an Indian village remaining precisely as the frightened inhabitants had left them.

Some ingenious wag had left our camp early in the morning, alone, and happened to be the first to discover this village. The fellow played off a fine trick upon some of us in the manner following : the interiors of some of the wigwams were lined with smooth bark, and choosing one of the larger domiciles, he covered the bark with rough but tolerably well-drawn figures of men, horses, and buffalo. He must have been a rapid sketcher, as the entire ceiling, if I may so call it, was in this way decorated. Underneath a group of figures stood out, in bold relief and in good Roman characters, the crack-jaw name of some Indian brave, leading us to suppose, at once, that this was the artist who had executed the work above. Not suspecting, for a moment, that any such hoax had been played, and never imagining that any of our men had gone ahead and alone, we could not but come to the conclusion that some erratic white genius had domesticated himself among the Indians, or that one of the wild sons of the woods and the prairies had cultivated, in some way, a taste for the fine arts. The author of the hoax, however, thinking the joke too good to be lost, finally divulged the secret.

Our next day's march was along the high ridge of prairies which divides the waters of what was thought to be Noland's River from those of the Brazos. The prospect on both sides was romantic in a high degree. To the east, for miles, the prairie gently sloped, hardly presenting a bush to relieve the eye. In the distance, the green skirting of woods, which fringed either border of a large stream, softened down the view. Occasionally a deer would jump suddenly from his noonday rest, and scamper off across the prairie, but other than this no game was seen. The few deer we saw were exceedingly wild, from the fact of there being so many Indians in the vicinity ; while the buffalo had evidently all been driven to the south.

To the west of the ridge, the immediate vicinity was even more desolate, but the fertile bottoms of the Brazos, with their luxuriant growth of timber, were still visible, and the Camanche Peak, rising high above the other hills, gave grandeur and sublimity to a scene which would otherwise have been far from monotonous. This peak is celebrated as a looking-out point for the Camanches, commanding, as it does, a complete view of the country around as far as the eye can reach - and hence its name.

Late in the afternoon we reached a small spring of water where we encamped, and the grass being excellent in the vicinity, we remained nearly all the next day to rest the jaded cattle and repair the rickety wagons. Many of the latter were half worn out when we started, and the rough road over which we had travelled was far from improving them. An afternoon's march brought us to a noble spring in a grove of post oaks - a grove which turned out to be one of the outskirts of the celebrated Cross Timbers.

Up to the 21st of July, one month from the time when we left the Brushy, our course had been nearly north, the country we traversed principally fertile and rolling prairies, destitute of timber except the bottoms of the different streams we had crossed. Our road, in the mean time, although we had considered it very bad. was a perfect macadamized turnpike in comparison with what we were shortly to meet. There is a cant expression, " I've seen the elephant," in very common use in Texas, although I had never heard it until we entered the Cross Timbers, or rather the first evening after we had encamped in that noted strip of forest land. I had already seen " sights" of almost every kind, animals of almost every species, reptiles until I was more than satisfied with the number and variety, and felt ready and willing to believe almost anything I might hear as to what I was yet to see ; but I knew very well that we were not in an elephant range, and when I first heard one of our men say that he had seen the animal in ques- tion, I was utterly at a loss to fathom his meaning. I knew that the phrase had some conventional signification, but farther I was ignorant. A youngster, however, was " caught" by the expression, and quite a laugh was raised around a camp fire at his expense.

A small party of us were half sitting, half reclining around some blazing fagots, telling stories of the past and speculating upon our prospects for the future, when an old member of the spy company entered our circle and quietly took a seat upon the ground. After a long breath, and a preparatory clearing of his throat, the veteran hunter exclaimed, " Well, I've seen the elephant."

" The what ?" said a youngster close by, partially turning round so as to get a view of the speaker's face, and then giving him a look which was made up in equal parts of incredulity and inquiry.

" But not a real, sure-enough elephant, have you ?" queried the younger speaker, with that look and tone which indicate the existence of a doubt and the wish to have it promptly and plainly removed.

This was too much ; for all within hearing, many of whom understood and could fully appreciate the joke, burst out in an inordinate fit of laughter as they saw how easily the young man had walked into a trap, which, although not set for that purpose, had fairly caught him ; and I, too, joined in the merry outbreak, yet in all frankness I must say that I did not fully understand what I was laughing at. The meaning of the expression I will explain. When a man is disappointed in anything he undertakes, when he has seen enough, when he gets sick and tired of any job he may have set himself about, he has " seen the elephant" We had been buffeting about during the day, cutting away trees, crossing deep ravines and gullies, and turning and twisting some fifteen or twenty miles to gain five - we had finally to encamp by a mud-hole of miserable water, and the spies had been unable to find any beyond - this combination of ills induced the old hunter to remark, " I've seen the elephant," and upon the same principle I will here state that I had by this time obtained something more than a glimpse of the animal myself,

We were now fairly within the limits of the Cross Timbers, a singular strip of wooded country, a description of which may not prove uninteresting.*

The immense western prairies are bordered, for hundreds of miles on their eastern side, by a narrow belt of forest land well known to hunters and trappers under the above name. The course of this range is nearly north and south, with a width ranging from thirty to fifty miles. The growth of timber is principally small, gnarled, post oaks and black jacks, and in many places the traveller will find an almost impenetrable undergrowth of brier and other thorny bushes. Here and there he will also find a small valley where the timber is large and the land rich and fertile, and occasionally a small prairie intervenes ; but the general face of the country is broken and hilly, and the soil thin. On the eastern side of the Cross Timbers the country is varied by small prairies and clumps of woodland, while on the western all is a perfect ocean of prairie. The belt, therefore, for whatever purpose it may have been fashioned

* My own opinion is, that we entered the Timbers near the southern extremity. What distance this singular forest extends north I am unable to say, but I believe it terminates not far from the Canadian or Arkansas. It probably reaches no farther south than a point near the junction of Poland's River with the Brazos.

by the Great Creator of all things, appears to be an immense natural hedge dividing the woodlands of the settled portions of the United States from the open prairies which have ever been the home and hunting-ground of the red man. To use another figure, it may be looked upon as the western side of the frame of an immense landscape painting, the United States forming the subject. The Gulf of Mexico may be considered the frame on the southern side, the Atlantic on the east, while the great lakes which divide the picture from Canada must serve for the northern side.

In that portion through which we passed, and we spent nearly a fortnight in the Cross Timbers, we found the face of the country broken, and full of deep and almost impassable gullies. These, in the rainy season, carry off the waters from the hills to the larger streams outside the woods, but in July we found them all dry. Had we been able to travel directly west we should have materially shortened our journey ; but the country was such that we were compelled to pursue a diagonal course, subjecting men, cattle, and horses to great privation and suffering, to say nothing of the vexations of our slow and toilsome march.

Bear and deer are found in the Cross Timbers and the vicinity, and small gangs of buffalo take shelter in them when scattered and driven from the prairies by Indians. In many of the trees swarms of wild bees are found, affording delicious honey - a great luxury to those who are engaged in a border life, for it is well known that the absence of breadstuff's increases the appetite for sweets of every description. Often, while living upon nothing but poor beef and not half enough of that, did fallacious pictures of confectionary-stores and cakeshops pass before my dreaming fancies - the shadows

For two or three days we journeyed through the middle of the belt, every attempt to find a passage out proving futile. On one or two occasions, distant fires were seen upon the hills at night, but we were unable to get a sight of the Indians who were encamped by them.

On the night of the 23d we reached Noland's River.* As many of our oxen were much travel- worn, and some of our horses needed shoeing, we encamped upon this stream until the 26th. At this camp the officers of the expedition held a consultation to devise means for more rapi dP progress. While upon the praries, it was evident that the wagons were too heavily loaded, and now that we were in a much rougher country it was deemed imperatively necessary that they should in some way be lightened. The first step towards effecting this desirable object was the throwing away a large portion of the dry beef we had brought from Austin, much of which was found to be spoiled. This meat had been provided as a last resort in case the Indians should deprive us of our cattle ; but to carry it farther was considered unwise, and such portions of it as were fit for use were immediately served out to the men instead of green beef, but half the weight of the latter being given. It was also resolved to deprive us of one of our greatest comforts - the tents. There were many of them new, well made, and easily pitched - but that there should be no repining, nor ill-feelings engendered in the camp, all the poles were burned, as well those of the officers,

* Some of our men thought it was one of the forks of the Trinity. I am inclined to believe they were wrong in their surmises, although far from confident.

commissaries, and merchants, as of the men. But one was saved - the hospital tent, for the use of such as might be sick - and we had now nothing to protect us from the rain or cold but our blankets and the sky. During the three days we passed on the western side of Noland's River the wagons received a thorough repairing. The fatigue men also dug away the steep banks of the stream, and cut a road through the heavy timber of the bottoms.

By the 26th of July everything was in readiness for resuming the toilsome journey, and after crossing the river without accident we were enabled to travel some ten miles before we encamped. The road was through a stony and hilly country, interspersed with an occasional grove of black jacks and post oaks. To the right of our line of march we saw the ruins of what had been a large Indian village, many of the wigwams being still in a partial state of preservation.

The next day we reached a small grove of timber, bounded on all sides by a level and beautiful prairie - an island, it would almost appear, in the heart of the Cross Timbers. The water and grass being good at this place, and the country beyond appearing rough and our farther advance almost impossible, it was determined to remain until the spies had found some outlet ' from the labyrinth of difficulties in which we were entangled.

At this camp, for the first time, the latitude and longitude were taken by Mr. Falconer and Lieutenant Hull, the latter of whom had been an officer in the English navy and fully understood the use of the quadrant. According to their calculation, we were upward of two hundred miles in a course nearly north from Austin, and the distance to Santa Fe was close upon five hun- dred miles, the direction a little north of west. The exact latitude and longitude I made a memorandum of in my note-book, together with a description of the country through which we passed, the course each day, and the number of miles we travelled. This book is now in the hands of the Mexicans, and as a matter of course I am compelled to depend upon memory. Circumstances difficult to forget, however, occurred every few days, the dates of which were so strongly impressed upon me that I still retain them, and the events of the intervening time I am obliged to fill up, as I have said before, from memory.

The spies returned in the evening and reported that they had found a route through the timber in a northwesterly direction - the only one in which we could travel. They stated the distance to be about twenty miles, the country covered with brush and post oaks, cut up by ravines, and without water ; but it was believed that by sending a large fatigue party in advance with shovels and axes, and by making a very early start, we could cut our way through in one day - at all events it was determined to attempt it. Mr. Navarro, although extremely lame, would not trust himself in the little Jersey wagon, but mounted a horse and left me the only passenger. Fitzgerald volunteered to drive the mules for this day only. His style of handling the reins was peculiarly of the break-neck order, but as we had to travel over a break-neck road the driving may be set down as in perfect keeping.

The morning was pleasant, but the bright July sun gave promise of an unusually hot day, and did not disappoint us. At the first gully we crossed, which was not more than half a mile from our starting-point, two of the foremost wagons upset. The labour of righting them and repacking their heavy loads occupied some two hours, and thus it was near the middle of the day before we had made one quarter of our day's march. In the mean time, the road grew worse and worse as we advanced, the weather was unusually hot and sultry, our stock of water was soon exhausted, and with that went our patience and good temper. One difficulty was no sooner passed, than even a worse stared us in the face. The narrow passage cut for the wagons was stumpy and stony, cut up every two or three hundred yards by deep gullies, or the dry beds of what had been running streams. The ground was covered with a heavy undergrowth of briers and thorn-bushes, impenetrable even by mules, and these, with the black jacks and post oaks which thickly studded the broken surface, had to be cut away, their- removal only showing, in bolder relief, the rough and jagged surface of the soil which had given them existence and nourishment.

Night finally overtook us, when we were but half way through our toilsome march. By this time fatiguemen and drivers were worn down, hungry, half choked with thirst, and completely dispirited ; the oxen were jaded, unwilling or unable to draw, as well as suffering for want of water, and the imprecations bestowed upon them were louder, deeper, and more disgustingly blasphemous than ever. Several wagons had been upset, broken to pieces, and left by the roadside, while the command was scattered for miles through the woods, every one eagerly pressing forward for water, uncontrolled and uncontrollable. To make the matter worse for Fitzgerald and myself, we had fallen in the rear of the long train of wagons, with the hope of finding a better road, and it was impossible to pass them. Had we started with the party in advance, we might have pressed forward in our light wagon, and thus have reached water ; as it was, we were compelled to keep the position we had originally taken in the cumbrous and gloomy procession.

To make our situation still more desperate, a dark and cloudy night followed a clear and hot day. How fervently we wished it might rain, that it might descend in torrents, and thus enable us to slake a thirst which was almost intolerable ; yet while the muttering thunder plainly told us that heavy showers were passing around us, a few drops only fell to our share - the clouds but made our march more difficult and dangerous.

Midnight came, finding us in the midst, I might say in the very thickest, of our troubles. The extended train of wagons made an unusually long stop, and while we were peering through the gloom 3nd wondering what had caused the delay, word was passed along the line that the artillery-carriage had stuck fast in a gully some half a mile ahead, that most of the fatigue-men had mounted their horses and started off in search of water, and what was more annoying than all. that we must remain where we were through the night ! Here was a climax to a day and night of horrors. Had I been in possession of the use of my limbs I would have started at once for water ; as it was. I was compelled to bear nry sufferings as best I could. Fitzgerald merely unhitched the mules from the wagon, and without taking off the harness made them fast to a neighbouring black jack with the reins. He then betook himself to the ground under our carriage, while I took an inside seat, or rather couch. Thirsty and hungry as I was, I soon fell asleep, and never woke up till morning. It must have been sheer exhaustion that induced this sleep, for my mind was certainly attuned to anything else.

Escape From The Cross Timbers

When the morning light enabled us to see the surrounding objects, we discovered that our mules had broken their fastenings, and started off, probably in search of water. Here was a prospect of another annoying delay, for we could form no opinion as to the time when the mules had left or the course they had taken. After a long search, however, they were found, led back to the wagon, and a few minutes saw us again on our journey. About the middle of the day we finally emerged from the Cross Timbers, and a short ride across a smooth prairie brought us to our companions, who were comfortably encamped on the banks of a running spring of fresh water. Those, and those only, who have passed twenty-four hours without water, half the time under a hot broiling sun and in circumstances of feverish excitement, can judge of our feelings and sufferings - are alone able to appreciate the perfect happiness experienced as the parched lips and swollen tongue first touched the precious element. But our march of the previous day and night - never can I forget that march. I had previously travelled many weary miles, over the worst roads, and by the worst conveyances ; I had thought my sufferings great during these different journeyings ; but to alter a remark of the facetious and renowned Sancho Panza, all those sufferings were cakes and gingerbread compared with what I experienced the last day and night we passed in the Cross Timbers.

We were hungry as well as dry on reaching our encampment ; so, after having slaked our thirst, we sat down to a most delicious repast. And what was this repast ? the gentle reader may ask : simply a piece of ordinary beef, cooked before a fire on a ramrod ; but keen appetites supplied bread, vegetables and seasoning, and a heartier meal I never enjoyed. I thought, while eating, of the gourmands of cities, men who spend half their time in getting up an appetite to relish the delicacies placed before them - I pitied them, and ate on.

It was not until a late hour in the evening that the broken wagons and scattered oxen were safely brought into camp ; if my memory serves me aright, several of the latter had strayed so far away that they were never found. The blacksmith's forge was, in the mean time, put in operation, the greatest exertions being made so to patch up the injured wagons that they would be in condition to resume the journey early on the morrow.

Now that we had made the dreaded passage of the Cross Timbers, we were sanguine in believing our troubles and difficulties over. As far as the eye could reach in a west-northwest direction, which was the course resolved upon by our guide, Mr. Rowland, nothing could be seen but a succession of smooth, gently-undulating prairies. From several hills in our vicinity, known to many hunters who were among us, it was evident that we were within twenty miles of Red River : in fact, the distant timber which skirts the borders of that stream was now supposed to be in sight. It was also known that we were but a short distance from an old Towish Village, a noted camping-ground for the Pawnees and other prairie Indians in their annual excursions south in quest of buffalo.

By going directly to the banks of Red River, and attempting to follow it too closely, it was feared that we should meet with many of the deep gullies through which the waters falling during the rainy season pour themselves into that stream, and should find none but the river water for use, which, in the dry months, is characteristically brackish and unpalatable. By keep- ing farther out, it was thought we should not only find fresh water in greater abundance, but a far better road than by a route nearer the stream. Unfortunately for us this was the course adopted. Mr. Howland formed his plans with much judgment and deliberation ; that we afterward encountered and followed a stream mistaking it for Red River, was one of those unfortunate errors against which no human foresight or prudence could have guarded. The fate of the expedition might have been altogether different had we adopted the repudiated plan, keeping on until we had reached the above stream, and then followed it so closely that there would have been no possibility of losing it.

Another important error, in the opinion of many, was the crossing of the Brazos. Had we kept directly along the ridge which divides that stream from the Colorado, we should certainly have avoided the toilsome and tedious passage of the Cross Timbers, and it may be have suffered as little from scarcity of water. This route would certainly have been much nearer, as we could have travelled almost a direct course ; but to oppose it, different objections were raised. By some it was said that we should be obliged to cross large prairies abounding with salt lakes, where no fresh water could be procured ; others, again, prudently contended that the country in that direction was much of it unexplored, and consequently unknown, while by crossing the Brazos, a short distance below the Camanche Peak, we were almost certain of finding fresh water every day, and a country over which the wagons could be taken. Perhaps it was better that we took the course we did :

Trail of the Chihuahua Traders. - Causes of the Failure of that Enterprise. - A fresh Indian " Burn." - Dr. Whittaker lost. - Indian Dogs. - Their forlorn Appearance. - Exciting Scene. - An Indian Buffalo Chase. - Well rid of annoying Visiters. - Buffalo Meat for Dinner. - Pack of miserable Curs. - A recently-deserted Indian Camp. - Dr. Whittaker again among us. - A white Flag sent out. - Beautiful Camping-ground. - An Eclipse. - Once more on Horseback. - Singular Chase. - Both Parties mistaken. - A Soaking. - Carlos, a Mexican, joins the Spy Company. - Plausibility of his Stories. - The supposed Red River. - Parley with a Party of Wacoes. - Their Insolence. - Arrival at a Waco Village. - Its desertion by the Inhabitants. - Beautiful Location of the Town. - Its Houses and Corn-fields. - An Indian Musical Instrument. - Speculations upon Love. - High State of Civilization of the Wacoes. - Causes of the Hostility of the Wacoes to the Texans. - Departure from the Village. - Brackish Water. - Fear of the Prairie Indians of Artillery. - Origin of this Fear.

WE left our camp, near the western margin of the Cross Timbers, late on the morning of the last day of July, and, such was the excellence of the travelling on the prairies, were able to make twelve miles on our journey. During the forenoon we crossed the great trail made the year before by the Chihuahua traders. A company of American merchants, residents of Chihuahua, had conceived the project of opening a direct trade with the United States by way of the prairies, in lieu of the circuitous and expensive route through St. Louis, Santa Fe, and El Paso del Norte.

Indians Near

not far from the latter town, and then taking a course nearly east, they could reach Red River near Jonesboro, they visited the United States with the intention of testing its feasibility by experiment. Having purchased and loaded some eighty wagons, they left the western borders of Arkansas early in the spring of 1840. No less than five months were these men employed in cutting their way through the Cross Timbers, while the heavy bottoms, and the dismal bogs and fens of Red River, were rendered thrice dreadful by constant rains. After they had passed these disheartening obstacles, and reached the open prairies, they were still three months upon the road, making eight in all. So great was the expense, and so much time was lost in crossing the prairies, that the enterprise proved a losing speculation, and has not been repeated. A company of American equestrians, with all their horses, canvass, and circus appointments generally, crossed the prairies with the traders, and afterward performed in many of the towns and cities of Mexico with various success.

We had scarcely crossed the Chihuahua trail before we found ourselves upon a " burn," or place where the prairie grass had been lately consumed by fire. During the day we also noticed fresh Indian " sign," consisting of recent trails ; and other more subtle evidences, cognisable only by the instincts of old campaigners, convinced us that we were not far from a body of savages. We passed a small creek of sluggish water during the day, but at night were obliged to encamp without any. Scarcely had the guard-fire been kindled, and the sentinels posted, before it was discovered that Dr. Whittaker, our surgeon, was missing, and no one could give the least clew to his mysterious disappearance. The band was immediately ordered out to play at dif- ferent commanding points, fires were kindled on the highest rolls of the prairie around us during the night, and the cannon was fired the next morning, with the hope of attracting his attention ; but he came not, and we were obliged to continue our march without him.

We had not gone more than three miles when a mean, sneaking, scurvy-looking dog came crouching and whining among us, and soon two others made their appearance. They were poor, miserable curs, half wolf apparently, and their homeless, half-starved, and forlorn condition would have protected them from the operation of any code of dog laws in Christendom. Their appearance created a good deal of speculation among us. That they were Indian dogs, and that their owners wrere not far distant, we were well satisfied ; but why they came crying around us and seeking our protection it was difficult to conceive, for the dog of the red man usually avoids the whites.

But a far more exciting incident than the appearance of these worthless curs took place during this day's march. Our animals had had no water the night before, and this circumstance made all anxious to press forward to a small stream which had been discovered by the spies. As a consequence, such as had good horses left the ranks - for wrhen there is no water there is no subordination - the advance-guard left the wagons to take care of themselves, the drivers pressed their oxen forward, in the vain hope of keeping up with the mounted men, and in this way the command soon became scattered for miles along the undulating prairie, the different parties not being even within sight of each other.

A Chase On The Prairie

med his seat in the little wagon, Fitzgerald was still driving, when we suddenly found ourselves out of sight of any of our friends. This circumstance did not in the least alarm us, as we anticipated no immediate danger, and the trail of the advance-guard was so plainly visible on the grass that we could follow it at a rapid pace.

While jogging briskly along at the foot of a prairie ridge, the roll running nearly parallel with our course, a buffalo cow came dashing madly past, and within but a few yards of us. Her tongue was out and curved inward, while her tail was carried aloft, showing that she was running in hot haste, and apparently for very life.

One of the wagon-curtains had at first prevented us from seeing aught in the rear of the buffalo ; but as she swiftly sped past us, a pursuer, in the shape of an Indian, who could not be more than ten yards behind her, appeared in full view. The savage was mounted on a small but beautifully-formed bay horse, of short, quick stride, yet fine and powerful action. He was armed with a long lance, which he held poised in his hand, wrhile a bow and quiver were strapped to his back. His dress was a buckskin shirt, with leggins of the same material, while his long, black hair, although partially confined by a yellow band about his head, was waving in the breeze created by his rapid course along the prairie. He had scarcely got clear of the curtain, which confined our view to objects only in advance of the wagon, when another Indian was discovered following immediately in his steps.

" Camanches !" shouted Fitz, at the same time pummelling and kicking the mules into a break-neck gallop, in the hope of soon coming up with the advance-guard, which now could not be far ahead.

" The whole tribe !" I could not help exclaiming, as I now looked out at the hinder end of the wagon, and saw still another well-mounted Indian dashing down the roll of the prairie with the speed of the wind, and, to appearance, making directly for us.

This whole scene was enacted in a few seconds, and in our lame and unprotected situation our minds were but ill at ease on the score of an attack. The appearance of the last Indian, and the reasonable supposition that a large body might be following him, induced Fitz to kick and beat the mules more zealously than before, and at such a rate of speed did they go, that the race between us and the foremost Indian was close, and for a short distance well contested ; while the buffalo led her wild pursuers along directly by our side, and so near that the very earth, thrown from their horses' hoofs, rattled against the curtains of our wagon. The savages, though they must have been aware of our proximity, did not appear to bestow a single glance upon an object so strange as a Jersey wagon must have been to them, but kept their eyes steadily bent upon their prey.

With mad eagerness this strange race went on, the Indians using every endeavour to overtake and lance the unfortunate cow, while we were even more anxious to gain the protection of our friends. I had noticed, not a little to our relief, that the hindmost Indian wheeled his horse suddenly on seeing our wagon, and re- traced his steps over the roll of the prairie ; but the other two never deviated from their course. In a race of half a mile they had gained, perhaps, a hundred yards on us. An abrupt turn in the prairie ridge now concealed them from our sight, and before we had reached this point the sharp reports of several rifles, in quick succession, convinced us that our unexpected neighbours had been seen by the advance-guard, and that succour was near if needed.

From the time when the Indians were first in sight, until they were lost to view by a roll of the prairie, could not be more than five minutes, yet there was an ordinary lifetime of excitement in the scene. Had we known that there were but three, or even three times that number, and had we been in possession of our limbs, with our rifles fresh loaded and in readiness, we should have taken their sudden advent with less trepidation ; but neither Mr. Navarro nor myself could more than hop about on one foot, and our rifles were in the very bottom of the wagon, where, in our over haste, we could not get at them. We even found, on reaching camp, that our arms were not loaded ; a pleasant situation, truly, for one to find himself in on being attacked by prairie Indians, whose movements are characterized by a startling rapidity, and who must be met with the utmost promptness - yet so it was. We took special care, however, not to be caught in like predicament again.

On arriving at our encampment, which was hardly a mile from the point where the Indians had passed our wagon, we found that all was hurry and excitement. A small but well-mounted party had already set off in pursuit, and General McLeod had detailed another party who were on the eve of mounting. The savages had driven the buffalo directly into the lines, the rifleshots we had heard turning the course of the pursuers, but not that of the pursued. The cow was shot with a musket by one of our officers, Lieutenant Scott, and found to be young, and exceedingly fat and delicious.

Our encampment was a beautiful grove of timber, and near a small stream of warm, turbid water. A few yards below was a large Indian camp, apparently but just deserted, some twenty or, thirty half-starved curs still lingering about, which seemed too weak to follow their masters. From the appearance of the closelypicked fish, snake, terrapin, and pole-cat bones which were scattered about, the late occupants of the camp had suffered much from want of food, and the dogs might be supposed to have eaten nothing for weeks. The Indians who had driven the buffalo into our lines, evidently belonged to this camp. The desperation of their hunger was such as to overcome any astonishment or intimidation the appearance of our wagon might have caused, and they never gave up their chase until their prey was in our very jaws.

After enjoying the hearty dinner which had thus accidentally been thrown in our way, preparations were made for an evening march. The spies had discovered a larger stream some six miles distant, with excellent grazing in the vicinity. Before starting, General McLeod sent out two or three parties, in different directions, in quest of the Indians. Each party carried a white flag, strong hopes being entertained, notwithstanding the unfriendly reception given to the Indians who had driven the buffalo into our camp, that some of the company might be induced to come in on amicable terms. Guides were wanted, not only to inform us of our present position, but to lead or direct us onward by the best and easiest route. Not an Indian could be found, however, but one of the parties went as far as the large river north of us. The waters were described as brackish and of a brownish colour, agreeing, in every way, with the description of Red River. The stream was running nearly east, and our west-northwest course had by this time brought us within some ten miles of it.

As the command was on the eve of resuming the march, we were all rejoiced by the arrival of Dr. Whittaker, for whose safety, now that Indians had been seen almost in our very midst, the liveliest apprehensions were felt. Our worthy surgeon told us that he had halted a short distance from the line of march on the previous day, for the purpose of enjoying a short rest under a small shade tree ; that he had fallen into a sleep from which he did not awake for two or three hours, and that on rising he felt that he was " turned round," or in other words, that he was completely lost, and uncertain as to the direction in which the command had come or gone. In this state of doubt he had taken a course which he supposed to be the right one, and when night came he hid himself in a quiet hollow, until daylight should allow him to continue the uncertain task of finding his companions. Fresh Indian sign he had seen in every direction, and during the night his horse, the end of whose rope he had made fast to one of his arms, gave well-known indications that an enemy was lurking in the immediate neighbourhood. With the early dawn the doctor continued his hap-hazard search. He had a good horse and rifle, with some twenty rounds of powder and ball, but he was far from being a skilful woodsman. Fortunately, I might say providentially, he came upon our trail, although at the time he was in doubt which direction we had taken.

Having crossed the sluggish stream upon which the Indian camp was situated, we journeyed on some two hours until we reached the new quarters found for us by our spies. This situation was in a beautiful cove of the prairie, nearly surrounding a skirting of timber. Our camp was upon the banks of what appeared to be a large stream in the rainy season, though now there was but little water in its bed. Its course was nearly northeast, and those among us who pretended to know anything about the country at once concluded that it was the Wichita,f a stream that was said to empty into Red River high up, and about which but little was known except by trappers and Indians. Unfortunately for us we had none of these in our company. Finding excellent grass, water, and timber upon the banks of this stream, we remained the next day to recruit our cattle and repair some of the wagons. The spies were sent out, in the mean time, to examine the country and find a good route. At night we had an eclipse of the moon, without any one knowing that such an occurrence was to take place ; the next morning many and queer were the speculations, especially among the guard, as to what caused the singular appearance of the heavens.

* Dr. Whittaker has since paid the debt of nature. He was liberated at the city of Mexico with the rest of the Santa Fe prisoners, but died at Puente Nacional, of yellow fever, on his way home. He was a generous-hearted and brave man, and left many warm friends.

t On some of the maps the reader will find this river put down as the Big Washita. I believe the correct spelling and pronunciation to be Wichita, bul the general course of the stream has been wrongly laid down.

A Wild-Goose Chase

my horse, with assistance, on the 3d of August, and bade farewell to the old Jersey wagon in which I had journeyed nearly six weeks. Scarcely had we gone three miles that morning, before a small herd of buffalo was seen quietly feeding in a valley to the right. It was the first opportunity that had been offered me of enjoying the excitement of a chase, and I immediately dashed after them ; but the hard gait of my horse over the rough prairie pained my ankle so much that I was obliged to give it up.

Another chase came off, however, on the same day, which, for excitement, fairly went beyond anything in the way of horse-racing. One of the volunteers had set out in search of water by himself, and a short time after, without knowing that he had gone, Major Howard left the command on the same errand. By accident they came suddenly upon each other in a little valley, and the man, mistaking Major H. for an Indian, set off at full speed. The latter, also thinking the other an Indian, gave chase with a yell, and away they bounded across the prairies as fast as their horses would carry them. The first part of the chase was plainly seen by many of us, and created the greatest interest. The major was by far the best mounted of the two, and was also a bold and dashing rider ; but he was a much heavier man than the pursued, and this gave the latter an advantage. The chase continued until both were out of sight, Major H. slowly gaining upon the supposed Indian by his superior riding. On one or two occasions the former raised a pistol to shoot the other, and nothing prevented it but a desire to bring him into camp alive. Finally he came up with the chase, both horses nearly broken down, when the frightened volunteer turned his pale face imploringly around, and recognised, in his

" Wh - wh - why, major," he exclaimed, stammering from fright - " Why, major, is that you ? D - d - don't shoot me. Is it really you, major ?"

" Certainly it is, and I'm not going to shoot you ; but what, in the name of common sense, did you take me for, and what induced you to run so fast ?"

In the course of an hour Major Howard rode into camp with his prisoner, who was really half frightened to death. In fact, the man afterward died on the road, and those who knew him best, said that he never got over the " scare." It may appear singular that two white men could mistake each other for Indians ; but it should be recollected that we were in an Indian range, and the small parties that went out were in constant expectation of meeting gangs of them. It should also be borne in mind that the dresses we wore were anything and everything that came handy, and conduced most to our comfort while upon the solitary prairies. After being out two months upon a campaign, any man will regard his personal convenience more than his personal appearance, and hence we all more resembled Indians in dress than civilized men. The hot sun and winds of the prairies had also imbrowned our faces to a light mahogany colour, while our hair, allowed to remain uncut, in every case where it was black made the resemblance to the red man still more close and striking.

The Mexican Guide

On arriving at camp that evening, it was found that Frank Combs was missing, and with him young Curtis Caldwell, son of the old captain of the spy company. Knowing as we did that so many enemies were in our neighbourhood, their absence caused great solicitude ; but they came in shortly alter our guard fires had been kindled.

About nine o'clock at night we had a tremendous shower, which continued until near daylight. When the water first came trickling through my blanket, I thought of snug rooms, clean bed, moscheto bars, and all that sort of thing ; but while thinking of them I fell asleep, and never had a better night's rest in my life, although I awoke at daybreak wet to the skin. The heavier part of the shower was over when we crawled from our soaked blankets ; there was yet a misty, drizzling rain, however, and we were compelled to continue the march that morning in wet clothes.

From the higher rolls of the prairies we could now distinctly see, to the right and in a northern direction, the dim outline of a belt of timber running nearly parallel with our course, supposed by all to be the skirting of Red River. A Mexican named Carlos, a native of Taos. in New Mexico, who was attached to one of the companies, now for the first time said that he had trapped up and down Red River, and knew every part of it ; that the country around us resembled in every respect the vicinity of that stream, and that he had no doubt we were now close upon the Red River bottoms. So plausible were his stories, and his knowledge of the country appeared so extensive, that he was immediately transferred to the spy company ; and here I might add, that Carlos had been employed as mail-carrier between Austin and San Antonio for several years, and had always been found an honest and trustworthy fellow. This circumstance was related when his claims as a person entitled to credit were canvassed in camp, and went far to establish for him a character for probity which few of his countrymen of the same class receive or deserve.

As we desired neither to cross the river to our right, nor approach too near its wooded bottoms, our course was now altered a point or two - perhaps more, as I noticed we were frequently travelling a little south of west. The fog, clouds, and drizzling rain of the early morning had dispersed before the middle of the forenoon, the sun coming out intolerably hot. Some two hours after meridian, the advance-guard, with which I was now in company, came up with the spies, comfortably encamped in a small grove of timber on the margin of a dry creek, where they were anxiously awaiting our approach.

On the arrival of General McLeod, the spies had an exciting adventure to relate. They had met and held a parley with a body of Indian warriors, about their own number, all well armed and mounted, many of them upon large and powerful American horses which had evidently been stolen. They were large, athletic men, sat boldly and proudly upon their fat and well-trained steeds ; and while many of them had American rifles in their hands, and were far better dressed than the Camanches, Cayguas, and other prairie Indians, their manner was stately and overbearing. Their quick and experienced eyes, as they ran over the jaded and travelworn animals of the spies, at once convinced them that they could outrun, if not outfight them, and hence their daring and insolent behaviour.

Their Suspicious Deportment

there were two or three of them who had picked up a smattering of Spanish, and Carlos, from the affinity their language bore to the Camanche, which he partially understood, was enabled to carry on a conversation. They frankly declared that they had been watching our movements three or four days, and with cool effrontery asked the spies whether we had come for peace or war. The answer was, that our intentions were peaceful ; that we were journeying towards Santa Fe with merchandise, and had many wagons and a large force a short distance in the rear. The Indians retorted by saying that they knew all this well enough - they had seen and measured our entire strength. They were next asked if they could direct us on our journey by the best route, which would afford the most grass and water ; all the Texans wanted was to cultivate a peaceful understanding with these men, and to obtain their assistance in furthering us on our journey.* The questions of the spies were answered in a sullen, swaggering manner, so much so that Captain Caldwell - than whom no man in Texas better understood the treacherous and uncertain " ways" of every tribe upon its borders - at once remarked to his men, in a low tone and in English, that " these fellows looked ugly and jighty, and that they must all keep an eye upon their rifles, and be ready to give them a volley should he make a signal." It was thought, by many of the spies, that some one of the Indians could understand English, as a movement towards examining the flints and caps upon the rifles of the former was met by a corresponding movement on the part of the red men.

* General McLeod was really anxious to encourage friendly relations with these savages ; but they appeared to be far from disposed to reciprocate, probably distrusting his motives.

Captain Caldwell next asked his new acquaintances to what tribe they belonged. They told him they were Wacoes, and volunteered the information that a party of two hundred Camanches had been residing near them for some little time, but that they had recently left for the more western prairies. In addition, they said that they themselves were now out on a hunting expedition, and that their village was a long way off. Captain C. now requested them to remain with him until our commander arrived, as the latter was extremely anxious to see and have a friendly talk with them. A few muttered sentences passed between them in their own language at this request, when the principal chief replied that he would return at night and visit our camp and its leader. The fellows then went off at a brisk gallop, and were soon lost to sight by an undulation of the prairie.

Anxious to ascertain the movements of these Indians, Captain Caldwell, the moment they had disappeared, sent out Tom Hancock and another trusty spy to watch them. They returned in an hour, and said that they had discovered a large village some five miles distant in a northern direction, situated upon the banks of a stream, and that, from the general appearance of the country, we should be compelled to pass, with our wagons, directly through the town. Our officers now held a short and hurried consultation, at which it was determined to despatch fifty of our best-mounted men directly to the village. A flag of truce was taken, so that an amicable understanding might be brought about, if possible, with fellows who could make themselves exceedingly troublesome if they felt so disposed, and at the same time the party examined well their arms, to be ready in case the Indians should receive them in a hos- tile manner. As I was now able to ride, and felt anxious to be among the first to enter the village, I mounted my horse and accompanied the party. The advance-guard under General McLeod followed at a convenient distance, ready to support us should hostilities ensue.

When within a couple of miles of the Indian village a beautiful spectacle suddenly presented itself. Before us was a large and delightful valley, through which a river coursed along, with just trees enough to relieve the eye without concealing any of the beauties. In a large bend of the stream the village was situated, and all around were the corn-fields, pumpkin and melon patches of the inhabitants. In the distance, on the other side, the prairie rose gently, without a tree or bush to destroy the uniformity of the rich carpeting of green with which it was covered ; in a western and southwestern direction, exactly on our course should we not cross the river, the country appeared rugged and broken, and offering the greatest difficulty to our progress with the wagons.

As we descended the long wave of the prairie which overlooked the valley, we could see that all was bustle and commotion in the village, now scarce a mile distant. Suddenly a considerable party was seen, dashing off to the southwest, accompanied by a large troop of horses. We were not near enough to distinguish, with certainty, but saw enough to convince us that this party was composed of the women and children, as well as old men of the tribe, and that with these they were despatching all their superfluous horses. This seemed to indicate that our own reception would be anything but pacific, as the warriors always send off their families and movable property when they themselves make a stand ; but our party kept steadily on. Some of the older Indian fighters cast glances back, to measure the amount of support we might receive from the command in case we should be attacked, while all looked well to their powder-horns and bullet-pouches, and examined their flints and percussion-caps, to see that all was right. In low and hurried tones one volunteer would ask another for a few caps or ball patches, or for a spare flint, and the whole face of things began to assume an aspect decidedly belligerent, when suddenly another party was seen dashing from the village and following directly in the footsteps of the former and larger throng. We were now within less than half a mile, and it was evident enough that the latter party was composed of warriors only, or grown men. Before we had reached the river, which bounded the village on its southern side, still another party was seen flying off in a northern direction, ascending the undulating prairie on the opposite side of the town.

From these movements it now appeared evident that the Indians were deserting their heretofore peaceful home ; yet thinking there might still be some of the tribe remaining, Van Ness and Carlos were sent forward with the white flag. As they entered the village a solitary Indian, the last of his tribe that had remained to this time, was seen emerging from the opposite side and dashing off at lightning speed on the trail of his brothers. Thus, in certainly less than half an hour, was the Wacoe village deserted by all its inhabitants, and in even less time not one of them could be seen in any direction upon the prairies.

A small party of us crossed the river and entered the deserted town. Everything gave evidence of the hasty departure of the inhabitants. Fires were still burning in the vicinity of every lodge or wigwam, and earthen pots were found, in which pumpkins were still boiling. Deer, antelope, and wolf skins, sewed up and full of corn, were left in their haste, and everything betokened the unexpectedness of our approach, and the suddenness of their flight. Not having time to examine everything as closely as I wished, I recrossed the river, with the intention of visiting the village at an early hour in the morning. The command had arrived, and a campingground been chosen by the time I reached the opposite side of the stream. The site of this camp was near a corn-field, the position rendered strong by a grove of heavy timber immediately in our rear. The river would have been crossed had there been a sufficiency of grass on the opposite side for our animals. Strict orders were given not to touch or molest anything belonging to the Indians, and at the same time, fearing lest they might undertake a night surprise, every preparation was made to guard against such uncertain neighbours. We reasonably anticipated that the Wacoes would at least make an attempt to stampede and steal some of our horses and cattle ; yet the guard were not disturbed, and the night passed off quietly.

Early in the morning I visited the village on the other side of the river. The water of this stream was slightly brackish, enough to make it unpalatable as a beverage, but for boiling meat or making coffee it answered very well. We felt confident that the Indians must have a supply of fresh water near, but were unable to find the springs from which they procured it. The village itself was situated at the western extremity of a large bend in the river, and although the bend must have been some five or six miles in length, by nearly two in breadth in the wider parts, every portion of it M2 appeared to be under cultivation, and the land was extremely fertile. The purlieus of the village appeared to be kept clean, which can be said of few Indian towns.

The wigwams - or houses, rather, for they really deserve that name - appeared to be built in rows, and had an air of neatness and regularity about them such as I had never observed before in an Indian village. They were of conical shape, some twenty or twenty-five feet in height, and of about the same diameter on the floor, the materials used in their construction being poles, buffalo hides, and rushes. The poles were stuck in the ground, and after running up perpendicularly some ten feet, were bent over so as to converge to a point at the top, thus giving a regular dome-like slope to carry off the rains. Over these, buffalo hides in some instances were made fast, and these again were covered with long rushes - thus making thatched cottages, impervious to dust or rain.

Within many of the houses, at an elevation of four or five feet from the ground, was a row of berths extending nearly the whole circuit, and very neatly got up. The bottom of these berths appeared to be of rough basket work, the frame which supported them being of large poles. As all the cooking for the family was done out of doors, their lodges had neither fireplaces nor chimneys. The inhabitants had carried off the principal part of their furniture, but had still left enough, from the haste with which they departed, to convince us that for Indians they lived in much comfort, and not a little style. Attached to each residence, and immediately in the rear, was another building of smaller dimensions, the lower part of which was evidently used as a corn-crib and storehouse. In these buildings we found a quan- tity of corn and pumpkins, besides finely-cured venison, antelope and buffalo meat. Above the corn-crib was a species of balcony, although without a railing, and this led into a small room in the second story, if I may so call it. One of the company said that this room was the sleeping apartment of the young and marriageable squaws of the family, and that their mother kept a ladder by which they climbed up to it at night and were let down in the morning. This story may be true and may be not - I tell it as it was told me.

In one of the main buildings an instrument, evidently intended for musical purposes, was found. It was made of cane, and in some respects resembled a fife, although much longer. It had five holes for the fingers, besides a mouth-piece somewhat after the fashion of a clarionet. The notes of the instrument were nearly as soft as those of a flageolet, the workmanship extremely neat, and evincing not only ingenuity, but taste ; and after hearing the story of the ladder, I could not help thinking that this same instrument had, perchance, while in the hands of some Indian Romeo, discoursed most eloquent music to a belle of the tribe, who, like Juliet, would step out on her balcony and pour forth her love and fealty to her soul's idol in return for this sweet token of his homage. He would then, very possibly, tell of his flaming, burning, and inextinguishable passion - recount to her his perilous 'scapes in the chase - talk of buffalo hunts, mustangs, war-paths, bear-fights, corn dances, and scalps ; while she, eagerly devouring each word, would throw back volumes of tender affection - tell what she would do for him, where she would go for him, how she was willing to pack meat, make moccasins, hoe corn, dig potatoes, and do out-door work generally, besides sitting up of nights for his sake, and for no other person's sake would she do a thing. He would then, as in duty bound, drop on one knee, lay down his lute, and conjure her to fly - instantly fly with him, on a chosen steed, to the farthest prairies - fly anywhere, everywhere, so that she was with him, and only him. With beating heart and lip trembling with emotion, she would tell him that her mother had carried off the ladder, and that she dared not, even for his sake, run the risk of breaking her neck by jumping down. Such might have been a scene to which this humble instrument I now held in my hand had been a witness ; and then, again, it might not.

Little skilled am I in the vocabulary of an Indian girl's pledges of love ; but as in these affairs between parties in civilized life each makes out as long a catalogue as possible of what he or she intends to do to make the other completely happy, it is more than probable that the case is the same among the uncivilized children of the. prairies. Love is a very pretty theme for poets to dwell upon, and many of them have been known to live upon it in the absence of more substantial food ; but there is far more of matter-of-fact even in this same love than your sentimentalists would make us believe, and occasionally those afflicted with it have a decided preference for mush, mutton, and safety over moonbeams, moss-banks, and incensed mothers - and hence the Indian girl's repugnance to leaping the balcony. This is all mere speculation - the reader may take it for what it is worth, while I return to my narrative.

We spent two or three hours in the pleasant village, examining the houses, implements, manner of cooking, cultivating the land, and other matters. I will not say that the Wacoes know as much of civilization as the Cherokees or Choctaws, who have had the opportunity of intercourse with the whites ; have had their eyes opened somewhat to the plan of civil government by their treaty dealings with the United States, send been made to know something of the system of the Christian religion by the pious zeal of missionaries. I have seen all these tribes, and while the Wacoes did not exhibit any of those fruits of civilization which too often mar the virgin leaf of those other nations, I confess that I saw evidence of a more elevated kind of humanity than I had supposed was to be found anywhere among the original Americans.

Near the centre of the village was a house of larger dimensions, and more elaborate workmanship than any of the other dwellings. This may have been the general council-house, or the abode of the medicine man of the tribe, or it may have been the residence of their principal chief, who must needs, as is the custom in more civilized nations, live in better quarters and more costly style than his subjects. Be this as it may, it was there, and afforded additional food for the mind to speculate upon.

The Wacoes, although not a numerous, are certainly a brave and warlike, and consequently a strong tribe when compared with the Pawnees and Camanches. Like the latter, they are said to be always on horseback, and equally well skilled in the uses of that noble animal ; but here the comparison ends, for the Wacoes have comfortable houses, and corn-fields, and many luxuries to which their prairie neighbours are strangers. The Wacoes have never been corrupted by association with the whites, nor made weak and effeminate by the use of alcohol ; and here again they enjoy advantages. In the early history of Texas they were at peace with the inhabitants of that Republic. Large hunting parties of the tribe were frequently seen within her limits, and every relation appeared to bring additional peace and harmony, until an unfortunate affray occurred which induced them to dig up the tomahawk, and since that time many have been the inroads they have committed along the northern frontiers of Texas.

I heard it stated that the whites were guilty of bringing on this war by some act of bad faith towards the Wacoes, and the wound they then received has never been healed. From the fact of their hurrying off their women and children, as well as their large cavallada of horses and mules, it was evident that they placed no reliance in our assertion that we came among them with pacific intentions - they had been deceived by our men once, and Indian-like, looked for another violation of our words.

The village we visited probably contained three or four hundred inhabitants, and there were others, both up and down the river, which we could see in the distance. A crossing of the river was effected about ten o'clock in the morning, and after winding slowly through the village, the command continued the journey along the fertile bottoms of the river, our course a little south of west. Carlos said confidently that it was the Red River, and no one doubted, for a moment, that we were upon the banks of that stream, some distance above Coffee's Upper Station. The latter is a well-known trading-house high up on Red River, and the place where the different Indian tribes rendezvous to barter off their skins for rifles, blankets, and ammunition.

At night we encamped upon the banks of the stream. Although the waters of the river, as I have before remarked, were brackish, a pure and fresh stream was discovered close by. This was used by the men, but

Indian Dread Of Cannon

All the spoil we took from the Waco village consisted of a few pumpkins ; the houses and everything about them were left untouched. Fine fish were now caught in the stream, which, with our regular rations of beef and the pumpkins we had procured in the morning, gave us a feast. Many of my readers may think this but a meager feast - boiled beef, fried fish, and boiled pumpkins - but they should recollect that we had eaten no vegetable substance for nearly two months, and that even fried catfish was a rare dainty.

During the day, Indians were seen scouting about on the distant hills, watching our movements ; but our position was a strong one, and although we anticipated, no one feared the consequences of a night attack, farther than the danger of having our horses run off.

The fact that the Indians did not make an attack upon us, or attempt to steal our horses, was probably owing to the circumstance that they had seen our sixpounder. It is well known that the Camanches and other prairie tribes have the greatest dread of cannon, and can never be induced to approach within a mile of them. The story is told that a large party of Camanches attacked, many years since, one of the early Missouri expeditions journeying with a small cannon, loaded with grapeshot and rifle-bullets.

So greatly did the savages outnumber the traders, that they felt confident of an easy and sudden victory, and impressed with this belief attacked them in a solid body, and with their usual yells. The traders calmly waited until they had approached within a few yards, when they let fly among them the unexpected shower of missiles. The gun was well directed, and sent a large number of the Indians tumbling to the ground. Those who escaped were so panic-stricken at the strange discharge, which carried such fearful destruction to their ranks, that they instantly wheeled and fled, and could not be induced to renew the attack. Overrating, as they did, the power of a cannon from the effect of this well-directed and fortunate shot, from that day to the present no party of the tribe has ever dared attack openly any company fortunate enough to possess a fieldpiece. The fame of the big gun of the whites, so it is said, has spread from the Camanches to the neighbouring tribes, and to such an extent has the story of its powers been magnified, that it is difficult to get an Indian within its utmost range.

March Along Red River

Join the Spy Company, - Farther Speculations as regards Red River. - Advantages of travelling with the Spies. - Beautiful Streams and cool Arbours. - Visit from Mustangs. - A dashing wild Horse. - Different Modes of catching Mustangs. - Indians in Sight. - Guarding against a night Attack. - Description of Country. - Rough Travelling. - Arrival at a Freshwater Stream. - Carlos thinks Himself at Home. - General Joy in Camp. - Scanty Rations. - A Shower and a Stampede. - Cross the supposed Red River again. - Scarcity of " Sign." - Mountains ahead. - A Labyrinth of Difficulties. - Broken Country. - A hunting Adventure. - Get lost upon the Prairie. - Hopelessness of my Situation. - Ruminations upon the Horrors of being Lost. - Fortunate Escape from Difficulty. - A Ride through a Rattlesnake Region. - Once more among my Friends. - Unpleasant Dreams. - A Mesquit Prairie. - Carlos again " at Home." - Three of the Texans sent forward to the Settlements. - Carlos takes the Guidance of the Expedition. - A Buffalo Chase. - River seen to the South. - An Adventure with Deer. - Great Waste of Powder and Ball. - A severe Case of the " Buck Ague." - Symptoms and general Appearance of that singular Disease.

ON the 6th of August I joined the spy company. By this time I was able to ride without pain, although I walked with much difficulty, and required assistance in mounting my horse.

The course of the stream we were upon was a little south of east - to follow it up was not the right direction to Santa Fe, but as every one supposed that we must be on Red River, there was no suspicion that we were not taking the true route in doing so. At times, as we journeyed along its fertile bottoms, some bend of the stream would bring us directly upon its banks, which were fringed with a few cotton-wood trees ; again, the river would turn away abruptly, leaving us at a distance of several miles from its waters. It was now low, being fordable in many places. Its bed may have been sixty or seventy yards in width, its banks, in many places, high and steep, and giving evidence that in the rainy season there was depth of water sufficient to float the largest steamers.

There were two great advantages in marching with the spies : one was the opportunity of meeting with more exciting adventure, while the other was the brisk pace at which we travelled, being a steady trot, instead of the snail-like movement of the wagons. On the day when I joined them, after a pleasant ride of some ten miles, we arrived at a small creek of fresh and running water, a delicious treat on a hot prairie march. It was a beautiful stream, overhung with grape and other vines now in the full richness of summer verdure. In many places the vines had completely crossed the creek, thus forming a delightful natural arbour, and under this cool shade the restless waters swept along to mingle with the hot and brackish river, now some two or three miles to the south. After finding an easy crossing-place, a man was sent back to the command as a guide, while we unsaddled and turned our horses loose to graze, and then threw ourselves upon the green carpeting of grass under the shade-trees, to enjoy a quiet noonday siesta.

We scarcely had time to establish ourselves comfortably before three or four mustangs were seen approaching at a rapid gallop. Ever and anon they would halt for a moment, throw up their heads as if to scan us more closely, and then, as though not satisfied with the scrutiny, would again approach at the same rapid pace. It may be that they could not see us while reclining under the shade-trees, or mistook our animals for some of their own wild companions ; be this as it may, they approached within a few hundred yards, wheeling and dashing about with all the joyousness of unrestrained freedom, and occasionally stopping to examine our encampment more closely. The leader was a bright bay, with long and glossy black tail and mane. With the most dashing and buoyant action he would trot around our camp, and throw aloft his beautifully-formed head, as if, after the manner of some ringleted school-girl, to toss the truant hair from his eyes. Then he would lash his silken tail, shake his flowing mane in pride, and eye us with looks that plainly told his confidence in his powers of flight should danger or treachery be lurking in our vicinity. I had formed a strong attachment for my own powerful bay, for he was gentle as a housedog, and would run all day if necessity required it ; yet I would instantly have " swapped" even him for this wild horse of the prairies, with no other knowledge of his qualities than what I could discover at the distance of a hundred and fifty or two hundred yards.

After gambolling about us for some little time, his bright eyes apparently gleaming with satisfaction, as if conscious that we were watching and admiring his showy points, he suddenly wheeled, and, in a canter, placed himself at a more prudent distance. Then he turned again to take another look, curved his beautiful neck, once more tossed his head, half timidly, half in sport, pawed the ground playfully, and again dashed off. Several times he turned to take still another look at our encampment, and even in the far distance we could distinguish his proud and expanded nostrils, his bright, flashing eyes, and the elastic movements of his symmetrical limbs as he playfully pranced and curvetted about. I watched him until he was but a speck upon the prairie, and then turned from gazing with regret that he was not mine.

The Indians and Mexicans have a way of capturing mustangs by running up on their fleetest and most untiring horses and noosing them with the lariat. The white hunters have also a method, which is often successful, of taking the wild horses. It is called creasing, and is done by shooting them with a rifle-ball upon a particular cord or tendon in the neck, immediately under the mane. If the ball takes effect precisely in the right spot the animal falls benumbed, and without the power to move for several minutes, when he is easily secured. Should it strike too low, the horse is still able to run off, but eventually dies. An attempt was made to crease the magnificent steed I have mentioned ; but it was impossible to approach near enough to shoot with accuracy, and to endanger his life would have been a wanton act, which the most eager hunter among us would not have committed. When our provisions became scarce several of these animals were shot for their flesh. It seems repugnant to the feelings to eat horseflesh ; but the meat is tender and finely flavoured, and a three-year-old mustang is really better food than either buffalo or common beef.