Santa Fe, Texas - Narrative of the Texan Santa Fé Expedition, Comprising a Description O (part 5 of 9)

As the day advanced the rain gradually ceased, and before ten o'clock the sun once more appeared. A happier set of men were never seen, for many of us had eaten, slept, and waked in wet clothes and blankets through the eight-and-forty previous hours. Some little time was occupied in filling up the creek with earth and logs, so as to secure a safe passage for the wagons, and about noon the whole expedition was once more on the road, travelling in a northwest direction. During the day we passed through a succession of dog-towns, scattered along every half mile upon the route, as their favourite grass could be procured. Large numbers of the animals were killed by the men - killed for their meat alone.

At night we encamped in front of a small rnot or clump of timber, and near a pond of fresh water. However much the rain of the two previous days had annoyed us, we now found that it had saved the expedition. Not a drop of water, save that which had recently fallen, could be found in any direction, and little doubt was entertained that we must inevitably have perished had it not been for the heavy storms.

A party of three hunters came in after we had encamped, and reported that they had fallen in with a party of nine Indians during the day, and had held a "talk" with them. The fellows spoke Spanish, although badly, and were very insolent in their bearing. They did not dare attack our men, however, and finally rode off yelling across the prairie. They were doubtless Cayguas,* and belonged to the party that had stolen our horses the night before.

* Mr. Navarro, who was well acquainted with the different tribes south of Red River, told me they were Caygwus, and gave the name this spelling. It is pronounced Kiwaa, yet it is generally written Kioway.

Another party of our men shortly after came in, their horses loaded down with deer, antelope, and other meat which they had killed during the day. The mess to which I was attached received a large ration of meat, which those who sent it said was young buffalo. It was fat, tender, and very juicy - the most delicious meat, I then thought, I had ever tasted - and what with some fine mushrooms we had found on the march, together with broiled antelope liver, we made a sumptuous meal. Not a little surprised were we afterward, when we ascertained that the meat we had partaken of so heartily, and praised so much, was the flesh of a mustang !

After having tied our horses close at hand, many of them to the wagons, and taken up our quarters in their immediate vicinity, we stretched ourselves upon the ground, and slept soundly, without a visit from Indians or disturbance of any kind, until near morning, when a pack of wolves, drawn to our camp by the smell of fresh meat, set up a dismal howling. A heavy dew, the first we had noticed since our departure from Austin, had fallen during the night, and the day broke with difficulty through a heavy fog : but at about eight o'clock the sun made his appearance, dispersing fog, wolves, dew, and all.

Our course of the previous day, northwest, which was considered the right one, we were still enabled to keep, with an excellent road for the first five miles of our morning's march. About noon we reached a singular tract, unlike anything we had previously seen. North and south, as far as the eye could reach, nothing could be seen but a sandy plain, covered with scruboak bushes, two or three feet high, upon which were found innumerable acorns of a large size. This desert, although the wheels of the wagons sank several inches in the sand, we were obliged to cross. Night set in before the passage was made - horses, cattle, and drivers alike tired out with the excessive fatigues of the day. We were fortunate, however, in finding a cool and pure stream of fresh running water just on the western edge of the waste. On the opposite side, the prairie had been recently burned, the fresh grass just springing up, and here we encamped.

At this camp the latitude and longitude were taken by Lieutenant Hull. The result of the observation, which, from the instruments not being in order, could not be depended upon, I inserted in my note-book, but have now forgotten. Lieutenant H. said that we could not be more than a hundred miles from the settlements, that we could easily reach them in ten days, and expressed himself highly pleased with the prospect before us. Little did he then anticipate the horrible fate that was soon to befall himself, or the many gloomy days of travel, of starvation, and of uncertainty in store for those whose spirits he had elevated by anticipations of soon reaching the settlements.

On starting the next morning after this observation was made, and ascending a high ridge of hills in the vicinity, the country before us was found extremely rough and broken. We pushed forward, however, some one way, some another - buffeting, turning, and twisting about, without order or system, until nearly dark. Long and tiresome marches, bad water, and not half enough of even the worst provisions, had combined to weaken and dispirit the men, render them impatient of control, and inclined to disobey all orders. The consequence was, that one party would go in this direction in quest of grapes or plums, another in that, hunting for game or water, and nearly all discipline was lost. It is diffi- cult, and requires a most efficient officer to keep even regular soldiers under subjection, when half starved and broken down by fatigue - nothing can restrain volunteers under such circumstances.

After crossing and recrossing deep gullies, our progress in one direction impeded by steep hills, and in another by yawning ravines, we finally encamped at night not two miles from where we began our day's march, although we had really travelled fifteen. Large plum patches had been found during the day, and such an inordinate craving had our men for almost any species of vegetable, that the country for miles in every direction was scoured, midnight coming before all the different parties arrived in camp.

A passage out of our difficulties was found next morning, and after winding about until noon among the hills, we at length reached a beautiful table-land covered with mesquit-trees.

So suddenly did we leave the rough and uneven surface of the valley, and so striking was the transition, that the scenic world of the theatre - and particularly the change from the humble cottage of the dancing girl to the Hindoo paradise in " La Bayadere" - was brought forcibly to the mind.

On starting in the morning, nothing was to be seen but a rough and rugged succession of hills before us - piled one upon another, each succeeding hill rising above its neighbour. At the summit of the highest of these hills the beautiful and fertile plain opened suddenly to view, giving scope to our vision and our hopes that was unanticipated and thrice welcome. The country between the Cross Timbers and the Rocky Mountains rises by high steppes, for the different lines of hills can be called by no other name. As the traveller jour- neys westward, he meets, at long intervals, ridges of hills and mountains, running nearly north and south, presenting the most serious barriers to his farther advance. As he ascends these, he anticipates a corresponding descent on the opposite side ; but in a majority of instances, on reaching the summits, he finds nothing before him but a level and fertile prairie.

We halted an hour or two, on reaching the beautiful table-land, to rest our weary cattle and give our horses an opportunity to graze. Little villages of prairie dogs were scattered about upon the prairie, and numbers were shot by the men, to help out their scanty rations. The fat of this animal, old hunters say, is an infallible remedy for the rheumatism. In the evening we resumed the march, and at sundown encamped upon the banks of a running stream of fresh water. The blue tops of three or four high mountains were discerned in the distance, which, such phases did hope ascribe to them, we thought answered the description Carlos had given of The Crows.

We were awakened early the next morning by the warbling of innumerable singing-birds, perched among the bushes along the borders of the stream. Among the notes I recognised those of the robin, the lark, and the blue-bird, and as it was the first time any of them had been heard since the commencement of our journey, thoughts of home and civilization came fresh to the heart here among the western wilds. How these birds ever strayed so far from their usual haunts, for they are seldom found except in the immediate vicinity of settlements, is more than I can imagine. There they were, however, telling us of scenes to which we had long been strangers, and giving us pleasing but fallacious promises of a speedy return to the abodes of at least semi-civilization. In our fond imaginings they typified the dove, telling us that the wilderness had been passed ; but, alas ! their song, like the siren's, was uttered but to deceive.

Inspiriting as was the singing of these birds, we were obliged to leave them in the middle of their matinal concert, and pursue our weary march. Throughout the day we had an excellent road, and when night came we had made something like twenty miles, still in a northwest direction, which was considered our true course. The mountains that had been seen the day before were now plainly visible, and well answered the description Carlos had given of the landmarks in the neighbourhood of the Narrows of Red River. The opinion advanced by many, that we were approaching the end of our journey, spread a general joy through camp ; and this opinion received fresh strength upon the return of two small hunting parties after night, who reported that they had seen what appeared to be Mexican cart tracks upon the prairie. With thankful hearts we swallowed our scanty supper that night, and the burden of our dreams, after retiring to rest upon the ground, was of bread and butter, potatoes, and the ether substantials of life - things that had long been strangers to our mouths, but were fresh in our memories.

Early the next morning it was ascertained that several horses and mules were missing, and although diligent search was made by their owners, they were never recovered. The night had been clear and bright, the guard neither seeing nor hearing aught to excite their suspicions ; but the animals were stolen, doubtless, by a marauding party of Indians.

armed parties scouring the prairies in various directions in search of water, Indians, and our lost animals. About noon, after a toilsome journey through a hilly and broken country, the command crossed the bed of a stream which was evidently a large river during the rainy season. At this time but little water was found, and that so salt that it was impossible to drink it. Towards night we came to the banks of a clear and delicious fresh-water stream, called, as we afterward ascertained, the Quintufue, the waters of which were bubbling along over a bed of golden sand. Running nearly north and south, at the distance of some six miles to our left, was the chain of hills I have mentioned, and rising above the rest were three peaks, which really deserved the name of mountains. We crossed the stream with our wagons, and encamped close on the opposite side.

Scarcely had we unsaddled our horses and turned them loose before one of our hunting parties came in and reported that a large body of Indians were in our immediate vicinity, and that they had driven off an immense cavallada or drove of horses. Soon another party arrived, with information that they had met a small body of Indians, one of whom spoke Spanish. They said that they were Caygiias, and on being interrogated concerning the direction towards Santa Fe, gave equivocal answers. They pointed to the southwest, however, to what appeared a passage through the hills, and said that was the direction to Chihuahua. They pretended to know nothing about the Rio Colorado or Red River. These Indians were mounted on fine horses, dressed in buckskin, and armed with lances and bows and arrows.

An Abandoned Camp. 205

peared to have its source in the long chain of hills upon our left, and ran in nearly a northeast direction. A short distance above us, occupying a beautiful situation on the same stream, the main camp of the Indians in our neighbourhood was discovered. It had apparently been just deserted, the inhabitants, in their great haste to drive off and secure their horses, not having time even to cache* their other property. Tent-poles, skins, numerous rough utensils, besides a quantity of dried buffalo, mustang, and deer meat, were found precisely as they had left them. The latter we appropriated to our own use, and, in our half-starving condition, was found extremely palatable.

Captain Strain, with a party of twenty or twentyfive men, was ordered out immediately, with orders to find and bring in some of the Indians, if possible, and at all events to ascertain their feelings and intentions. In the mean time the horses and cattle were herded close within the lines, a strong guard set, and the cannon placed in an advantageous position to guard against a night attack. The night passed off, however, without any alarm.

The journey was resumed early in the morning, our course being now nearly north to avoid the chain of hills on our left. By many it was thought that Red River came through a pass in this chain, and it was even conjectured that we should find that stream at the base of the farthest mountain in the ridge, so well did the region about us answer the description given by Carlos, before he left us, of the country in the immediate vicinity of the Narrows.

* This is a term used by the Rocky Mountain trappers and Western traders, and is equivalent to the English word bury. Furs and other valuables, when secreted in the ground, are called cached. The word is an obvious derivative from the French cocker, to hide.

A party of some twenty or thirty had gone forward in the morning for the purpose of finding the best road, while the mam body followed slowly on. While stopping to noon, near a small hole of muddy water, the last-mentioned party returned, and reported that they had encountered deep and impassable ravines in a northern direction - impassable even for mules. A halt for the night, although there was no water by this time even for the men, was now called, and a party of ten picked men, well mounted, sent out under Lieutenant Hann to scour the country in a northeast direction, in order, if possible, to find a road around the head of the gullies and ravines. At the time, it was considered impossible to cross, with the wagons, the high and rugged hills and mountains west of us, and our only course appeared to be by a road to the northeast.

In the mean time night overtook us, and still no tidings were received from Captain Strain, who had now been out more than twenty-four hours. The bright dreams of the night before vanished when we saw that our onward course was impeded by impassable barriers, and in their stead were forebodings of the gloomiest nature. When the mind is harassed by uncertainty, it is singular how trifling a thing can raise the spirits to the highest pitch of excitement or depress them to a state bordering on despair.

We passed another night sadly enough, yet without an alarm or losing any of our horses ; but the morning brought no news of Captain Strain. Our camp was in a small bend, protected in the rear by a skirting of cotton-wrood and hackberry trees which fringed the dry bed of a creek. The berries of the latter tree were ripe, and the limbs were completely stripped by our men. to satisfy a gnawing desire for food of a vegetable nature,

An Alarm

A report was raised, early in the morning, that fresh water had been discovered two miles distant, in the direction of the mountains, and our suffering animals were driven there immediately ; but at about eight o'clock they returned unsuccessful in their search. To endure the horrible sufferings we were experiencing seemed no longer possible, and, at a consultation held among the officers, it was resolved to fall back upon the stream we had left the previous morning, and there await the return of the scouting parties which had been sent out. The weather, I might here add. was insupportably hot, adding much to our suffering.

Our conjectures were anything but flattering on account of the continued absence of Captain Strain and his party, now out more than thirty-six hours. It was known, however, that both he and Lieutenant Hann, as well as the parties of three and five who were out hunting for water on their own account, could easily find their way back to camp by following the trail of the wagons, and immediate preparations were accordingly made to retrace our steps to the old camp, or some point higher up on the same stream.

The horses and mules were driven up and saddled, the oxen were yoked, and the other preparatory work was in progress for our departure, when suddenly a young man came dashing into camp from the northward, evidently much agitated, and announced that a large body of Indians were pursuing a party of our men directly towards us. Scarcely had he finished speaking before a firing was heard but a few hundred yards distant, a slight roll of the prairie concealing the combatants from our sight. Fast as they could mount horses, a party of some fifty of our men dashed off towards the scene of strife, while the wagons were drawn up in square, the cattle and horses brought inside, and every preparation made to resist an attack, which was now considered certain. The first impression wras, that the scouting-parties had been entirely cut off, and that these successes would induce the Indians to attack our main body.

Just as the party of our men who had gone out to the relief of their companions reached the spot, the Indians retreated ; but their bloody work was done. Scattered about within the circumference of a few yards were the dead bodies of Lieutenant Hull and four of our men, stripped, scalped, and horribly mutilated, while the appearance of the ground gave strong evidence that manfully and with strong hearts they had resisted the attack of their adversaries. They had left camp but a short time previous, probably with the hope of finding water, and in returning had been thus cruelly murdered. But one look at their mangled bodies was sufficient to stir deep feelings of revenge in every heart, and madly did our men spur their horses in pursuit, with the vain hope of avenging the death of their companions. The Indians were at least four times their number, yet they retreated, and, being far better mounted, were able to keep out of the way. So near, however, were our men, that they could plainly see the dead bodies of several of the Indians, packed upon extra horses they had with them for that purpose. The prairie warriors always have horses trained especially to carry off their dead or wounded companions, which they take with them on going into action ; and it is considered one of the greatest calamities that can befall them if they are compelled to leave one of their number in the hands of an enemy. The pursuit of the bloodthirsty Cayguas, for such the Indians proved to be, was continued by our men until it was evident that they could not be overtaken, and then reluctantly given up. Several times during the chase, the Indians reined up their well-trained horses on the higher rolls of the prairies, and formed in line as if intending to give battle ; but before our men could get within gunshot they were off again, with lightning speed, across the plain. On returning to the spot where our men had fallen, a closer examination showed how hard and desperate had been the struggle. Lieutenant Hull had received no less than thirty lance and arrow wounds before he fell, and the broken stock of one of Colt's rifles was still retained in the grasp of a stout man, named Mayby, plainly telling us that he had fought to the last, and that after discharging the piece he had still continued the combat. The heart of one of the men was cut out, and had not the Indians been driven off the other bodies would have been mutilated in the same way. Two of the horses of our unfortunate comrades were lanced close by - the others were probably in better condition and more able to run, and had been taken off as spoils by the savages. It was evident enough that Lieutenant Hull and his men had retreated from the Indians until they had found it impossible to elude them, and that they had then thrown themselves from their horses in a body and sold their lives at a fearful rate. The resistance they made had probably terrified their adversaries, and induced them to fly when they saw our party coming up, although they outnumbered the Texans at least as three to one.

A party of fifty well-armed men, taking with them shovels, were sent out immediately on the melancholy errand of burying our murdered companions, while the main body retraced their steps towards the Quintufue, which is said to be a branch of the Palo Duro, or Hard S 2

A Council Of War

Wood River. Scarcely had we started, before all were rejoiced by the appearance of Captain Strain with part of his men. He told us that he had scoured the prairies in almost every direction, but without success, having been unable to hold a parley with any of the Indians, although he had seen several small parties. He also reported that he had been unable to find either a road or water : there was a route by which the ravines might be headed in a course a little north of east, but in no other direction. A part of his men had left him early in the morning, having gone back to the Quintufue for water.

About noon the main body of the command again reached the river, at a point somewhat higher up than the former camping-ground. Here, after drinking incredible quantities of the water, and allowing our suffering animals also to quench a thirst which their eyes and general appearance too plainly showed had nearly driven them mad, a strong position was chosen, and we encamped.

In the evening a general consultation of all the officers was held. At this meeting it was resolved to despatch a party of one hundred chosen men, on the best horses in camp, with instructions not to return until the settlements of New Mexico were found. Although no hopes were entertained that a passage over the mountains could be effected by the wagons, it was still thought that mounted men would be able to accomplish it.

The distance to the nearest settlements was not supposed to be more than one hundred miles at farthest, and it was accordingly determined that the party should take five days' provisions, allowing but scanty rations. The course to be taken was northwest, and this course was to be kept, as near as circumstances would admit, until the party struck either the settlements near Santa Fe, the Rio Grande at a point below, or the trail of the St. Louis traders above. On reaching New Mexico, a party was immediately to be sent back to the command with guides and provisions.

However impolitic it may be considered to divide a command, in this instance such a course could not be avoided. We were completely lost, and without power of moving forward ; our provisions, which had for weeks been scanty, were now almost entirely exhausted ; the men were enfeebled by long marches, with only poor beef enough each day to support nature ;* and in addition we were surrounded by a large and powerful tribe of well-mounted Indians, scouring our vicinity, and always on the look-out to pick off any small party that might be sent out to hunt, or for other purposes. All these reasons considered, it will at once be seen that but two courses offered - one, to destroy the wagons, and to retreat hastily towards Texas ; the other, to divide the command, and send one party forward with orders not to return until the settlements were reached. I will not say that the wiser course was adopted ; but in answer to any one who may blame the leaders of the expedition for dividing the command, I would remark that few men, under the circumstances, would have advised to the contrary.

So soon as a division of the command had been determined upon, several of the oxen were killed for the use of the party to be sent onward, and preparations were made to dry the meat on the ensuing morning. Night came, but with it came no news of Lieutenant Hann and his little party. On calling the roll it was also found that others besides those killed in the morning were missing, and with the full conviction that they had shared the fate of Lieutenant Hull and his men, we that night laid ourselves to rest. The next morning we were still without tidings of our absent comrades.

The party detailed by General McLeod to march in advance was placed under the command of Captain Sutton, an excellent officer. It consisted of eightyseven officers and privates, with merchants, travellers, and servants enough to swell the number to ninety-nine. Among the officers were Captain Lewis, and Lieutenants Lubbock, Munson, Brown, and Seavy,* the latter acting as adjutant : the civilians were Colonel Cooke, Dr. Brenham, Major Howard, Messrs. Van Ness, Fitzgerald, Frank Combs, and myself. We were all well armed and mounted on the best horses in camp, and deemed ourselves able to cut our way through any party of Indians that might dare to attack us. That we should be molested was considered more than probable, as it was impossible to leave the command without being perceived by the scouting parties of Cayguas continually hovering about our camp, who could observe our every movement. In a fortified position we felt confident they would not attack the command ; but now that we were divided they might be imboldened to attack the smaller party.

The Cayg'das appear to be a powerful tribe, about whom, from their geographical position, little has been known. Their range is south of the line of travel of the Missouri traders, and north of such parts of the Camanche country as were known to the Texans, their

* Lieutenant Seavy was educated at West Point, had seen much service in Texas, and was one of the best officers connected with the Santa Fe expedition. He died of yellow fever at Puente Nacional, Mexico, much beloved by his brother officers as well as the common soldiers.

Account Of The Cayguas

hunting-grounds probably not having been visited by the whites previous to our march across them. In their customs and manner of living they resemble, in every way, the Camanches, and may be said to be a branch of that large and powerful tribe. They lead a roving life, esteem the whites as their natural enemies, and never give them quarter. Like the Camanches, they are expert on horseback to an extraordinary degree, leaping from one horse to another while at full speed, and performing many feats upon the prairies never undertaken even by the best equestrians of the circus. In their attacks upon an enemy they expose but a small portion of their persons, riding along in parallel lines with their enemies, their bodies lying on the opposite sides of their well-trained steeds, and in this position they discharge their arrows directly under their horse's necks. If they meet with an unfortunate party whom they outnumber, they charge openly, despatching all with their lances. While encamped, they live in tents constructed of poles and buffalo hides. These can be struck at a moment's warning, and the whole party will move off in an incredibly short space of time. They appear to be on terms of peace with the New Mexicans so far as it suits their interest and convenience - no farther ; at one time trading and exchanging their skins in amity, and almost in the same breath making a descent upon the unprotected frontiers, plundering and frequently murdering the inhabitants. When we passed through their country a party of Mexican traders were among them bartering meal, blankets, and trinkets for buffalo and deer skins. Some of these Mexicans we afterward saw, and from them learned that ten of their warriors, besides a principal chief, were killed by Lieutenant Hull and his brave companions before they were overpowered. The traders also gave us an account of their ceremonies on returning to camp with their scalps and trophies. A wild dance was executed by the braves in celebration of their victory, while the women tore their hair and faces, and ran naked through the prickly pear and thorn bushes, in token of their grief for the loss of their husbands and brothers. Whether they considered our visit as hostile or not it is impossible to say ; they had shed blood, and we well knew they would not cease murdering any of our companions they might dare attack. They have but a small number of rifles among them, and these are ineffective and useless in their hands : the larger portion of them are armed with shields, lances, and bows and arrows, weapons they use with surprising dexterity. Such are the most obvious features of a tribe of Indians occupying the prairies near the head waters of the Wichita, Colorado, Brazos, and Red Rivers.

The morning of August 31st was occupied in partially drying our meat over slow fires, and in making preparations for our departure. Horses were shod, bullets moulded, our rifles and pistols thoroughly examined, and nothing neglected in the way of that precaution our uncertain adventure demanded. We were placed in a position demanding some extraordinary effort. The repeated reverses that we had met with, the hunger and fatigue which we had undergone, and the impossibility of travelling farther with the wagons in any direction that would bring us nearer the settlements, formed a combination of evils for which a retreat or the plan determined upon was the only remedy. The indefatigable goa-headity which characterizes the Anglo-Saxon race, no matter where or under what circumstances placed, prevented the adoption of the former plan - the same spirit induced the officers of the expedition to adopt and carry out the latter. Almost every one appeared to rejoice when this course was determined upon. The harassing uncertainties which now encompassed all would speedily be removed, and we should soon know where we were.

As the advance party were about starting, we were all rejoiced by the appearance of Lieutenant Hann and his men. He had met with several small parties of the Indians, and endeavoured to induce them to come in and hold a friendly talk ; but they were sulky and disposed to fight, although not strong enough to engage him. Up to this time he knew nothing of the murder of Lieutenant Hull's party. The other men who were missing, as I have since been informed, never came in, but were undoubtedly killed by the Indians.

Chapter Xi

Departure of the Advance in search of the Settlements. - Summit of the Steppe gained. - Level Prairie before us. - A lovely Scene. - Speculations in relation to Red River. - A Bear Chase. - Bruin noosed. - The March continued. - Sagacity of a Mule. - Arrival at a singular Chasm. - Impossibility of crossing. - A heavy Prairie Shower. - Appearance of our Men. - Description of the Chasm. - A Crossing found. - Loneliness of the Prairies. - Scarcity of Game. - Begin to suffer Hunger. - Arrival at another awful Abyss. - Farther Difficulty in crossing. - Hunger increasing. - Singular Birds. - Mustangs and Antelopes. - Their exceeding Shyness. - Curlews. - A Buffalo descried. - Preparations for a Chase to the Death. - Tom Hancock and his Skill. - Endurance of Jim the Butcher. - Description of the Chase. - Poor Prospects of a Supper.

THS sun had but a short hour to run, in order to finish his day's work on the 31st of August, when, in double file and close order, our provisions for the march hanging at our saddle-skirts, we left our companions on the Quintufue and struck across the prairie on our journey in search of the settlements of New Mexico, Mr. Hunt, the engineer of the expedition, taking the guidance. A brisk trot of two hours brought us, as night was throwing its sable drapery over the scene, to the foot of the mountains, and here, after choosing a strong position, we encamped. No water could be found in our vicinity, but as we had filled our gourds and canteens before we left the main body, we suffered but little. Early the next morning, after travelling a mile or two along the foot of the high range, we discovered what seemed to be an Indian trail, the marks where the tent-poles had been dragged over the ground being plainly visible, leading in a zigzag course up the sides of the mountains. This we followed, and towards noon found ourselves at the summit of the chain. Here we were again gratified by finding spread out before us a perfectly level prairie, extending as far as the eye could reach, and without a tree to break its complete monotony. We halted a few minutes to rest our horses, and occupied the time in surveying the calm and beautiful valley lying hundreds of feet below us.

It was a lovely scene, beheld from the point where we stood, and I could hardly believe that but a few hours previous a horrible tragedy had been enacted upon its fair surface. Softened down by the distance, there was a tranquillity about it which seemed as though it never had been broken. The deep green skirtings of the different watercourses relieved the eye as it fell upon the wide-extending plain. The silver waters of the Quintufue, now reduced apparently to a mere thread, were occasionally brought to view as some turn of the stream threw them in line with us, and again they were lost to the sight under the rich foliage of the banks. The white tops of our wagons showed the present encampment of our main body, while the small black spots around gave us the pleasing assurance that the cattle and horses were still there, and that the camp had been unmolested. In other parts of the valley, too, small moving specks were seen - mustangs, or perhaps our Indian enemies prowling about - but other than these no living objects met our gaze. Almost the whole valley was bordered by the yawning chasms that had impeded the progress of our wagons, now brought more plainly to view by the elevation upon which we stood, and the whole scene forcibly reminded me of one of Salvator Rosa's beautiful landscapes, framed with rough, gnarled, and unfinished oak.

The elevated chain of hills or mountains we had ascended, if they really deserve that title, was but another steppe towards the high table-land which forms the base of the Rocky Mountains. Where, now, was Red River ? If the large stream our guides and scouting parties had seen, while in the valley below us, and in a northeast direction from the spot where Lieutenant Hull was killed - if that stream was Red River, then its source must have been near the base of the high steppe upon which we now stood, and the wide and almost dry beds we had crossed within the few past days were but its tributaries. In springtime, when the prairie snows melt away and the early rains fall, these beds are doubtless full, and when joined in one common channel form the great stream which, after passing through the Cross Timbers, fertilizes the valley known as the Red River country. The Rocky Mountains may justly be considered the parents of most of the larger streams of North America ; but I cannot think that they give birth to the river we had been so long seeking. On the contrary, I am bold in hazarding the opinion that the Rio Colorado or Red River of the United States, the Brazos de Dios, and the Rio Colorado or Red River of Texas, all take their rise in the centre of the prairies, at no great distance apart, and that the steppe we had now reached is their extreme western limit. Their waters are similar, being of a dirty, brownish red colour, and of a slightly salt and bitter taste, which goes far to prove their common origin.

From the hillsides, as was the case with the Palo Duro and Quintufue,* small streams of fresh and limpid water arise ; but both their purity of taste and virgin transparency of colour are lost the moment they strike the reddish clay of the lower prairies, and they become adulterated by the copperas and sulphate of soda with which these plains appear to be impregnated. The Red River of the United States has been traced and is well known to a point west of Coffee's Upper Station, a noted Indian trading post above the mouth of the False Washita ; beyond that, certainty loses itself in speculation, and the true stream, its courses and its sources, will never be known until it is explored to its fountain head - and this point will be found, I have little hesitation in saying, some two hundred and fifty or three hundred miles east- southeast of Santa Fe, and but a few miles from the steppe to which I have now brought my reader. In these conjectures I am borne out by the testimony of Albert Pike, now a well-known lawyer of Arkansas, and a poet and writer of great distinction.f t His " Hymns to the Gods," published several years since in Blackwood, are gems of rarest strength and beauty, and as such were highly lauded by Professor Wilson himself.

Mr. Pike'S Opinion

This gentleman, in 1832, made a hazardous journey from Santa Fe to the western settlements of Arkansas. His general course, for the first three hundred miles, was nearly southeast, the last two hundred taking him directly across the immense plain called Llano Estacado - Stake Prairie - by the New Mexicans. Mr. Pike had now reached the head waters of the Brazos, and in about the same longitude we had reached when Lieutenant Hull and his men were killed. He then continued down one of the forks of the Brazos some hundred and eighty miles, the stream running nearly southeast, and a part of the country being broken into rough and misshapen hills, resembling those we encountered on the stream which I have put down as the ^Vichita. The course of Mr. Pike was next northeast, some hundred and forty miles, until he struck the Red River of the United States. The point at which he reached this stream was probably a little to the east of the Waco village I have described, and below the mouth of the Wichita. From the appearance of Red River - the similarity of its waters, both in colour and taste, to those of the Brazos - Mr. Pike entertains little doubt that they both take their rise in the same section of country, and nearly in the same longitude - the former rising but a short distance to the north of the latter. But I am running before my narrative, and after promising other speculations in relation to Red River in a more befitting place, will reconduct the reader to the summit of the high steppe upon which we now found ourselves.

After giving our animals half an hour's rest, for they were much jaded by the precipitous ascent up which they had clambered, we resumed our journey in a northwest direction. We had ridden but a short distance before a large black bear was seen some mile or there- about to the left of us. Major Howard immediately set off with the intention of running him down, and after a short race succeeded in placing himself on the opposite side, so as to bring the animal directly between him and our line of march. The chase was now assuming an exciting character, the bear, from the lateness of the season, being poor in flesh, and able to run nearly as fast as our fleetest horses. Onward they came, directly towards us, and when within a quarter of a mile I cocked a pistol and left the ranks with the intention of having a first shot at the animal. When within some twenty-five yards, I reined up rny horse, and while taking deliberate aim, at not half that distance, I was surprised to see the bear turn a species of somerset, and commence kicking with his hind legs. Unseen by me, one of our Mexican servants had crept up close on the opposite side of my horse, and had noosed the animal with a lariat just as I was pulling the trigger of my pistol. Bruin soon loosed himself from his fastenings, and while running down the line was shot by Major Howard.

The journey was again resumed, and continued at a rapid pace until near the middle of the afternoon. A short halt was then called to rest our horses, at a place where no water was seen, but where the grass was excellent. The bridles were no sooner slipped from the heads of our animals than an elderly and sagacious mule, instead of beginning to nip the short grass, put off at a deliberate trot in a southwest direction. "That cunning old rascal scents water sure" said his owner, and sure enough he did ; for he had not proceeded three hundred yards before we saw him stoop his head and commence drinking at a pond-hole which was concealed from our sight. The discovery of this water

A Canon

As soon as we had given our horses and mules a short rest, and made a light meal of our half-cured meat, we resaddled and resumed our journey. We were going forward at a rapid pace, the prairies before us presenting no other appearance than a slightly undulating but smooth surface, when suddenly, and without previous sign or warning, we found ourselves upon the very brink of a vast and yawning chasm, or canon, as the Mexicans would call it, some two or three hundred yards across, and probably eight hundred feet in depth ! As the front ranks suddenly checked their onward course, and diverged at right angles, the rear sections were utterly at a loss to account for a movement so irregular ; they could not see even the edge of the fearful abyss at a distance of fifteen yards from its very brink. The banks at this place were almost perpendicular, and from the sides projected jagged and broken rocks, with here and there a stunted, scrubby cedar. There was some appearance of a zigzag and precipitous trail down the sides of the canon at the point where we first reached it, and Mr. Hunt and Dr. Brenham took it with the intention of reaching the bottom if possible : they continued their winding path until they seemed mere pigmies, and only stopped when their progress was arrested by high and perpendicular bluffs. On their return, after an absence of some half an hour, they said they had not advanced half way to the bottom, and that to attempt crossing at this, or any other point within sight, would be useless. We travelled a mile or two along the banks, but finding it impossible to discover a crossing-place, we finally encamped in a little hollow of the prairie near the edge of the ravine. Here, finding that a large portion of our badly-cured meat was spoiling, we cooked what could still be eaten, and threw much of it away for the wolves and buzzards.

Young Frank Combs and myself sought a comfortable lodging in a little sandy gulley, which had been formed by the washing of previous rains. A fine bed it was, too, for about an hour ; but just as we commenced dozing we were startled by a tremendous thunder storm. In three minutes we were wet through, and in five found that we were fairly floating, our rifles and saddles, the latter of which we used for pillows, being completely under water. We snatched our rifles from the swift-running stream, took up our bed, and walked to higher ground amid the terrible storm. We found means, however, to set fire to a large dry cedar, once more rolled up in our blankets, and after thinking of home and its thousand comforts, fell asleep. Yet never shall I forget the early part of that awful night. The lightning appeared to be playing about in the chasm far below us, bringing out, in wild relief, its bold and craggy sides. Deafening peals of thunder seemed rising from the very bowels of the earth, and then muttered away in the distance, rejoicing, as it were, at their escape from confinement. The yawning abyss appeared to be a workshop for the manufacture of the storm, and there we were at the very doors when the Ruler of the elements sent forth a specimen of his grandest, his sublimest work.

When morning came, which was bright and cloudless, we crawled out from under our wet blankets, and I doubt whether a more miserable, wo-begone set of unfortunates, in appearance, have been since the passage of the Red Sea. Not a man among us who was not as wet as though he had been towed astern of a steamer from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Balize, and without the privilege of going ashore at any of the " intermediate landings." Of my own personal appearance I can say nothing, as among our scanty stock of furniture there was no such luxury as a looking-glass ; but the unshaven faces of my companions resembled, to use a threadbare comparison, the title-pages of so many distress memorials, and I cannot flatter myself into the belief that'I differed from them in any material respect. Each individual hair upon our heads was sticking out almost anywhere, and to suit its own convenience ; our broad-brimmed hats were cocked up, lopped down, and knocked into, or rather out of, all manner of shape and comeliness ; our caps were mashed ; our scanty and ragged vestments, full of sand and water, stuck close to our persons or hung heavily and drooping downward like weeping willows ; and to sum all up, I verily believe that we could not have " passed muster" even in the ragged and renowned regiment promiscuously pressed into service by one Sir John Falstaff years before the Santa Fe expedition was thought of. Wretched and forlorn as we seemed, however, chilly and miserable as we felt after our soaking, good-humoured jokes were cracked at each other's expense, and every one was offering consolation and pity to his neighbour with an assumed sincerity and gravity that would have drawn a horse-laugh from Werter in his most sorrowful moments.

Unwilling to load our horses with wet and heavy blankets, we employed some two hours in spreading and drying them as much as possible. In the mean time, a scanty breakfast of half-cooked, half-dried beef was swallowed, our rifles were discharged, cleaned, and reloaded, and our powder examined to see that all was right. To keep his powder dry is the first thing the prairie traveller thinks of when a rain comes on, and fortunately we found that ours was all in good order, although it seemed almost a miracle that much of it was not spoiled.

The immense chasm we were upon ran nearly north and south, and by watching the current of the stream far below us - a furious torrent raised by the heavy rain - it was seen that it ran towards the former point. This induced Mr. Hunt to seek a crossing to the southward, and after saddling our horses we set off in that direction. We had gone but a few miles when large buffalo or Indian trails were seen, running in a southwest course, and as we travelled on, others were noticed bearing more to the west. We were obliged to keep out some distance from the ravine, to avoid the small gullies emptying into it, and to cut off the numerous turns, and in this way we travelled until about noon, when we struck a large trail running directly west. This we followed, and on reaching the main chasm found that it led to the only place where there was any chance of crossing. Here, too, we found that innumerable trails centred, coming from every direction ; proof conclusive that we must cross here or travel many weary miles out of our way.

Dismounting from our animals, we looked at the yawning abyss before us, and the impression upon all was that the passage was impossible. That buffalo, mustangs, and very probably Indians with their horses had crossed here, was evident enough, for a zigzag path had been worn down the rocky and precipitous sides ; but many of our horses were unused to sliding down precipices as well as climbing them, and drew back repulsively on being led to the brink of the chasm. After many unsuccessful attempts, a mule was started down the path, then another was induced to follow, while some of the horses were fairly forced, by dint of much shouting and pushing, to attempt the descent. In some places they went along the very verge of rocky and crumbling ledges, where a false step would have precipitated them hundreds of feet to instant death; in others they were compelled to slide down pitches nearly perpendicular. Many of them were much bruised, but after an hour's hard work we all gained the bottom without sustaining any serious injury. Finding a small patch of grass in the low and secluded dell at the bottom of the abyss, we halted for an hour or two to rest our weary animals and to seek the trail leading up the steep on the opposite side. This we finally discovered, and after the greatest exertions succeeded in clambering to the top, where we once more found ourselves upon a smooth and level prairie. I shuddered, on looking back, to see the frightful chasm we had so successfully passed, and at the time thought it almost a miracle that we had got safely across ; but a few days afterward I was convinced that in comparison the undertaking we had just accomplished was as nothing.

After giving our animals another rest we resumed our journey across the lone and dreary prairie. Not a tree or bush, and hardly a weed could be seen in any direction. A green carpeting of short grass, which even at this season was studded with innumerable strange flowers and plants, was spread over the vast expanse, with naught else to relieve the eye. People may talk of the solitude of our immense American forests, but there is a company even in trees that one misses upon the prairie. There is food for thought, too, in the ocean wave, not to be found in the unchangeable face of these great Western wastes, and nowhere else does one feel that sickly sensation of loneliness with which he is impressed when nothing but a boundless prairie is around him. There he feels as if in the world, but not of it - there he finds no sign or trace to tell him that there is something beyond, that millions of human beings are living and moving upon the very earth on which he stands. Shakspeare was in the woods when he found

We rode briskly forward until near sundown, and then encamped by the side of a small water-hole - the basin formed by a hollow in the prairie. Although we were only two days out, the rations of many of the men were nearly gone by this time, so much of the meat had been spoiled from having been improperly cured. Not a buffalo could be seen on the prairie, nor was any fresh " sign" visible. The mustangs, too, had left this part of the plain, as also the deer and antelope, driven off, doubtless, by the scarcity of water. Had it not been for the showers which fell while travelling this dreary waste, we should all most certainly have perished ; for even the immense canons had no other water in them than that which had fallen after we left the Quintufue.

Scarcely had we rolled ourselves up in our blankets before we were again visited by a heavy shower ; but this time we had chosen higher ground, and though

Another Canon, 227

The morning of September 3d broke bright and cloudless, the sun rising from out the prairie in all his majesty. Singular as it may appear, nearly every shower, from the time we left Austin until we reached the settlements of New Mexico, fell during the night, generally commencing shortly after sundown. Again we were compelled to lose some two hours in spreading and drying our clothes and blankets, after which we saddled our animals and pursued our weary journey. Our course, as I have already observed, was northwest, and we were now enabled to keep it without difficulty.

We had scarcely proceeded six miles, after drying our blankets, when we suddenly came upon another immense rent or chasm in the earth, exceeding in depth the one we had so much difficulty in crossing the day before. No one was aware of its existence until we were immediately upon its brink, when a spectacle, exceeding in grandeur anything we had previously beheld, came suddenly in view. Not a tree or bush, no outline whatever, marked its position or course, and we were all lost in amazement as one by one we left the double-file ranks and rode up to the verge of the yawning abyss,

In depth it could not be less than eight hundred or a thousand feet, was from three to five hundred yards in width, and at the point where we first struck it the sides were nearly perpendicular. A sickly sensation of dizziness was felt by all as we looked down, as it were, into the very depths of the earth. In the dark and narrow valley below, an occasional spot of green relieved the eye, and a small stream of water, now ri- sing to the view, then sinking beneath some huge rock, was bubbling and foaming along. Immense walls, columns, and in some places what appeared to be arches, were seen standing, modelled by the wear of the water, undoubtedly, yet so perfect in form that we could with difficulty be brought to believe that the hand of man had not fashioned them. The rains of centuries, falling upon an immense prairie, had here found a reservoir, and their workings upon the different veins of earth and stone had formed these strange and fanciful shapes.

Before reaching the chasm we had crossed numerous large trails, leading a little more to the west than we were travelling ; and the experience of the previous day led us to suppose that they all terminated at a common crossing near by. In this conjecture we were not disappointed, for a trot of half an hour brought us into a large road, the thoroughfare along which millions of Indians, buffalo, and mustangs had evidently travelled for years. Perilous as the descent appeared, we well knew there was no other near. The leading mule was again urged forward, the steadier and older horses were next driven over the sides, and the more skittish and untractable brought up the rear. Once in the narrow path, which led circuitously down the descent, there was no turning back, and our half-maddened animals finally reached the bottom in safety. Several large stones were loosened from their fastenings by our men, during the frightful descent ; these would leap, dash, and thunder down the precipitous sides, and strike against the bottom far below us with a terrific and reverberating crash.

Architecture Op Nature

romantic dell covered with short grass, and a few scattering cotton-woods. A large body of Indians had encamped on this very spot but a few days previous, the wilted limbs of the trees and other " sign" showing that they had made it a resting-place. We, too, halted a couple of hours, to give our horses an opportunity to graze and rest themselves. The trail which led up on the opposite side was discovered a short distance above us, to the south, winding up the steep and ragged sides of the acclivity.

As we journeyed along this dell all were again struck with admiration at the strange and fanciful figures made by the washing of the waters during the rainy season. In some places perfect walls, formed of reddish clay, were seen standing, and were they anywhere else it would be impossible to believe that other than the hand of man had formed them. The veins of which these walls were composed were of even thickness, very hard, and ran perpendicularly ; and when the softer sand which had surrounded them was washed away, the veins still remained standing upright, in some places a hundred feet high, and three or four hundred in length. Columns, too, were there, and such was their appearance of architectural order, and so much of chaste grandeur was there about them, that we were lost in wonder and admiration. Sometimes the breastworks, as of forts, would be plainly visible ; then, again, the frowning turrets of some castle of the olden time. Cumbrous pillars of some mighty pile, such as is dedicated to religion or royalty, were scattered about; regularity was strangely mingled with disorder and ruin, and nature had done it all. Niagara has been considered one of her wildest freaks, but Niagara sinks into insignificance when compared with the wild grandeur of this awful chasm - this deep, abyssmal solitude, as Carlyle would call it. Imagination carried us back to Thebes, to Palmyra, and to ancient Athens, and we could not help thinking that we were now among their ruins.

Our passage out of this place was effected with the greatest difficulty. We were obliged to carry our rifles, holsters, and saddlebags in our hands, and in clambering up a steep pitch, one of the horses, striking his shoulder against a projecting rock, was precipitated some fifteen or twenty feet directly upon his back. All thought he must be killed by the fall ; but strangely enough, he rose immediately, shook himself, and a second effort in climbing proved more successful - the animal had not received the slightest apparent injury !

By the middle of the afternoon we were all safely across, after passing five or six hours completely shut out from the world. Again we found ourselves upon the level prairie, and on looking back, after proceeding some hundred yards, not a sign of the immense chasm was visible. The plain we were then upon was at least one hundred and fifty miles in width, and the two chasms I have mentioned were the reservoirs of the heavy body of rain which falls during the wet season, and at the same time its conductors to the running streams. The prairie is undoubtedly the largest in the world, and the canons are in perfect keeping with the size of the prairie. Whether the waters which run into them sink into the earth, or find their way to the Canadian, is a matter of uncertainty - but I am inclined to believe the latter to be the fact.

At sundown we halted by the side of a water-hole, and encamped for the night. Many of the men were now entirely out of provisions, while those who still had

Flocks Of Birds

At an early hour on the ensuing morning our march was continued, the cravings of hunger by this time being sensibly felt by all. Small droves of deer and antelope were seen during the day, brought from the watercourses doubtless by the recent rains, and towards night a drove of mustangs was descried upon a roll of the prairie half a mile ahead of us. They were all extremely shy, however, and although many rifles were discharged, not a shot was successful - we could not get near enough to kill one of them. Flocks of small birds, about the size of and in many respects resembling the blackbird, travelled with us much of this day's march, hovering along in front and rear of the line, and so exceedingly tame that they would light on our hats and arms, and on the necks and heads of our horses, without manifesting the least sign of fear. One or two of these singular birds were caught and killed, and found to be fat and of good flavour. That night we encamped near a water-hole, covering an area of some twenty acres, but very shallow. Flocks of large curlews, one of the finest birds that fly, were hovering and lighting about on all sides. Had I been in possession of a double-barrelled gun with small shot I would have had at least one good meal ; but I had only a heavy rifle, and went to my lodgings on the ground supperless.

About two o'clock the next morning we saddled our horses and resumed the march, journeying still in a northwest course by the stars. On leaving the main camp on the Quintufue it was thought by all that we could not be more than a hundred miles from San Miguel - we had now more than made that distance, and were still upon the immense prairie. To relieve ourselves from the horrible suspense we were in, to get somewhere, in short, was our eager aim, and hurriedly we pressed onward, in the hope of finding relief. Our horses, in the mean time, had comparatively suffered less than ourselves, for the grazing on the prairie had been good ; but the hurried marches and the difficult crossings of the immense chasms now began to tell upon them.

At sunrise we halted near a small pond of water to rest the animals and allow them an hour to feed. Large white cranes were standing about in the pond, and flocks of ducks were swimming upon the surface. While we were lounging on the ground, a large antelope was seen slowly approaching us - now stopping, then walking a few steps nearer - evidently inquisitive as to who, or rather what we were. His curiosity finally cost him his life ; for although Captain Sutton the evening before had given orders that not another shot should be fired without his consent, one of our men could not resist the temptation of bringing the antelope down. The man was arrested and sent to the rear for this disobedience of orders, but I have little doubt the excellent meal he made more than compensated for the disgrace. The order of Captain S. that no rifle should be discharged, was an excellent one, as many shots had been wasted on the previous day ; but the best officer in existence cannot restrain a half-starved man when he sees a hearty meal directly within his grasp. A number of antelopes were seen in the neighbourhood of the water-hole, but no farther attempt was made to shoot them.

A Sleeping Buffalo

cle, a boundless prairie, was before us - not a sign was observable that we were nearing its edge. We journeyed rapidly on until near the middle of the afternoon, when a dark spot was noticed some mile or mile and a half directly in advance. At first it was thought to be a low bush, but as we gradually approached it had more the appearance of a rock, although nothing of the kind had been seen from the time of our first coming upon the prairie, except at the chasms.

A spyglass in our possession proved the man's assertion. Here, then, was a chance for at least as much as we could all eat, and the temptation was too strong to be resisted. The Leather Stocking of the party, Tom Hancock, was deputed to go forward on foot with a rifle, in the hope that he might at least get near enough to wound the animal, while myself and three of my companions, who were better mounted than the rest, made every preparation for a chase to the death.

Disencumbering our animals of every pound of superfluous weight, we tied handkerchiefs over our heads and prepared for a sport rendered doubly exciting by our starving condition. Each of my comrades had a pair of heavy belt pistols, and in addition one of Colt's revolving pistols, with a cylinder containing five shots. In my holsters I had a heavy Harper's Ferry dragoonpistol, throwing a large ball with great force and accuracy, besides a bell-muzzled affair which was loaded with two or three balls and some twenty-five or thirty buckshot. With this I intended at least to give the buffalo a broadside which would bleed him freely. To complete my armament, I also had one of Colt's pistols, U 2

Beyond where the animal was quietly lying, in a western direction, the prairie rose very gradually for a mile - farther than that we knew nothing of the nature of the ground. Tom Hancock could creep closer to the smooth prairie and make less show than any man in the command - knew all the advantages of taking the wind, and was conversant with every species of strategy by which to make his game certain - but he still thought it more prudent to give the animal a shot when within a hundred and fifty yards than to run the risk of crawling nearer. He had desired us not to move unless the buffalo started, hoping to have another shot ; we therefore sat quietly upon our horses to watch the effect of his first discharge.

The buffalo, evidently struck though but slightly wounded, bounded from the ground, stretched himself as does the tame bull on first rising, whisked his tufted tail right and left, looked slowly and inquiringly about him, and then lay down again upon the ground. We did not stir, and Hancock quietly reloaded his rifle without rising from the prairie. Another shot now followed, and this time the huge animal again bounded up and lashed his tail ; but no sooner had he turned his head in our direction, and discovered his enemies, than he wheeled and started off towards the west at the usual heavy, lumbering gallop. He had evidently been hit by the second shot as well as the first, and this time the wound was probably more severe.

At an easy canter our little party now dashed off in pursuit, not putting our horses to their speed at first from fear of blowing them too early in a chase which we determined should last to the death. We kept on in company until we had neared the top of the first prairie roll ; here, finding my horse in much the best condition, I left my companions, and at an increased speed continued the pursuit. I have said that the prairie was smooth ; by this the reader, who has never seen one of those immense grassy plains, must not imagine an even, hard, and well-trod common, resembling the spot, mayhap, where in boyhood he has kicked football or joined in the many sports incidental to his earlier years ; on the contrary, the smoothest of our Western prairies have an uneven surface, and are filled with the holes of the mole and the field-mouse. Through the slight thickness of earth which covers these holes the feet of the horse frequently sink ; and unless he has been brought up and trained on the prairies, he can never be taught to run upon them with that confidence which developes his full powers. When pursued, the buffalo chooses the roughest road he can find, and leads his pursuers down break-neck precipices, or up rough and broken steeps, inaccessible to other feet than his. Clumsy as he really is, his headlong obstinacy frequently carries him through difficulties at which even the more active and welltrained steed recoils with terror, and which the latter might overcome with greater ease did he but dare attempt them. But to the chase.

On reaching the summit of the prairie roll, some little distance in advance of my companions, I discovered the buffalo still galloping heavily and clumsily along, about five hundred yards before me. The descent of the prairie was here so gradual that I could see every object at least five miles distant, and the surface was much smoother than I had anticipated. I now put spurs to my horse, and dashed boldly down the gentle slope. Giving one look behind, I saw that one of my companions at the starting-place, Major Howard, had given up the chase, or rather his horse had given up. Lieutenant Lubbock and one of the men, the latter mounted on a mule which, if he could not get over the ground pai'ticularly fast, had at least the commendable quality of running all day, were still in hot pursuit.

The prairie, as I have said, was comparatively smooth ; and although I could not spur my horse into his full, free, and open stride, I was soon up with the huge animal, which was now at his utmost speed. Occasionally, as if to rest his legs on one side, he would roll over on the other, changing from side to side as his weight would tire him. This roll of the body must have been noticed by all who have chased these animals, and is a peculiar gait which I believe belongs to the buffalo alone. The one I was chasing was a bull of the largest and most powerful frame, his bright, glaring eyeballs peering out from his shaggy frontlet of hair, showing plainly that he was maddened by his wounds and the close pursuit. It was with the greatest difficulty, so terrible was his aspect, that I could get my horse within twenty yards of him, and when I fired my first charge at that distance the ball did not take effect.

As the chase continued my horse came to his work more kindly, and soon appeared to take an interest in the exciting race ; yet I was still unable to lay him up directly alongside the buffalo. I could approach him closely in the rear, but the affrighted steed sheered as soon as he lapped the mountain of scraggy hair and flesh. Finding it impossible to gain the position I so much wished, I dropped a few yards behind ; then, by dashing my spurs furiously in his sides, I was enabled to bring my horse to charge upon the buffalo's quarters. As I neared the animal I raised my pistol, and when about passing him, in a diagonal line, fired at less than four yards' distance. The now infuriated buffalo shrank as the ball took effect just back of the long hair on his shoulders. Under such headway was I when I discharged my pistol that I was compelled to cut across directly in front of him and close to his head, and when safely on the opposite or right side I reined up and once more dropped behind for another charge. Again I put spurs to their work, and, as I fairly flew by, gave the buffalo another wound directly in his side. He was now foaming with rage and pain. His eyes resembled two deep-red balls of fire - his tongue was out, and curling inwardly - while his long and tufted tail was either carried high aloft or lashed madly against his sides - a wild, and, at the same time, magnificent picture of desperation.

By this time my horse was almost completely subject to my guidance. He no longer pricked his ears with fear or sheered off as I approached the monster we were pursuing, but ran directly up so that I could almost touch the animal with my pistol. I had still two shots left in the repeater, and after discharging them I intended to fall back upon the old Harper's Ferry, and, by a well-directed shot, make a finish of the business.

After firing my third shot I again crossed the path of the buffalo, and so near that my right foot nearly touched his horns. The wound I had given caused him to spring suddenly forward, thus bringing me in too close a contact to be either pleasing or prudent. On coming up with him a fourth time, and so near that the muzzle of my pistol was not two yards from his side, the barrel dropped off just as I was about to pull the trigger. As I dashed by the infuriated animal he vainly endeavoured to gore and overthrow my horse by suddenly turning his head and springing at me.

The chase was now up, so far as I was concerned, for the pistol was a borrowed one, and very valuable. I had checked my horse and dismounted to search for it, when Lieutenant Lubbock came up. His horse was completely broken down and unable to reach the buffalo - in the hurry and excitement I told him to mount mine immediately and continue the pursuit. Soon he was up with the buffalo. By this time, so kindly had the horse taken to his work, that his rider was able to fire every shot without once passing the wounded animal. The latter stuck the horse once with his left horn, but did not hurt him seriously.

The other pursuer with the mule still continued the chase, and as the pace of the buffalo slackened from loss of blood and weariness, the former gradually crept up. I stopped to gaze upon the exciting scene. Every minute or two a flash and smoke would be seen, and then the sharp report of the pistol would reach the spot where I stood.

In this way the chase was continued until Lieutenant L. had discharged his own arms, together with my holster pistols. He then pulled up, and the other pursuer mounted my horse and continued the chase. I could not help pitying the noble animal, which had by this time run at least six miles. In a very short time the new pursuer was up with the buffalo, and again I could see the smoke as each pistol was discharged ; but by this time the space between us was too great for me to hear the reports. I gazed until both the pursued and pursuer were mere black specks upon the prairie, and never turned my eyes until they were completely lost in the distance.

Buffalo Brought To Bay

A successful Search. - The Buffalo brought to Bay. - Appearance of my Horse after the Chase. - Prospects of another Shower. - Adventure with a Rattlesnake in the Dark. - Fortunate Escape. - The Shower upon us. - Buffalo found in the Morning. - March resumed. - Swimming our Animals. - Singular Method of Cooking. - Wolves in our Vicinity. - Encounter with a Drove of Mustangs. - Excitement among us. - Mountains discovered ahead. - Leave the grand Prairie. - Singular Hills. - Compelled to abandon our Course. - Chances becoming Desperate. - Suffering and Starvation. - - Large fresh-water Stream discovered. - Speculations as to its Name. - Mexican " Sign" seen. - More Remarks in relation to Red River. - Plum Patches. - Carlos and Brignoli seen. - Their Sufferings. - The Texans driven to the greatest strait for Food. - An Anecdote. - Compelled to eat broken-down Horse Flesh. - A cold, raw Night. - Fairly among the Rocky Mountains. - A beautiful Valley. - A Feast of Catfish. - Arrival at the Angosturas. - Encounter with a Party of Mexicans. - Unwonted Excitement. - Matias sent back to the Command. - Advance towards the Settlements. - Farther Sufferings of the Texans. - Meet with an immense Herd of Sheep. - A Feast. - Dissertation on Starvation. - Mexican Shepherds and their Dogs.

A SEARCH of brief duration enabled me to find the lost barrel of my pistol ; and when this was accomplished I went back alone to seek the main body. After travelling a short distance, I met several of our men, who had previously been concealed by a slight roll of the prairie, and were now coming out, eager to learn our success. The last man who had taken up the pursuit of the buffalo with my horse was soon seen cantering back. Half an hour brought him up, when he informed us that after firing all his pistols he had brought the buffalo to bay, and that he had left him with the blood running from his mouth - a sure sign that he had received his death wound. I gave him Lieutenant Lubbock's horse, and with a small party he went back in search of the wounded buffalo.

I found my own horse completely white with foam, and much distressed after the long and exciting chase. Without mounting I trotted him briskly to the camp, distant about five miles, arrived there just at dark, and immediately commenced rubbing him violently with tufts of grass. Nobly had he sustained his part in our attempt to procure food, and I was anxious that he should not suffer after his severe, his killing race. While thus engaged, the heavens became suddenly overcast, and a distant roll of thunder warned me that we were to have another visitation of rain. I robbed myself of one of my blankets to favour the poor animal, strapped it tightly upon his back, and set out to stake him fast before the rain commenced. I had a lariat about his neck, some twenty yards long, and attached to the other end was an iron spike, which, when driven its full length into the earth, could not be drawn out by a horizontal pull. By this time it was pitchy dark, and while I was in the act of stooping to thrust the spike into the ground with my right hand, a rattlesnake, of large size, judging from the sound of his rattles, struck me a violent blow immediately above the elbow, but fortunately without breaking the skin. It is needless to say that I left horse and everything, and took the longest kind of steps out of the neighbourhood - my feelings I will not pretend to describe. By the remains of a fire, which had now nearly gone out, I ascertained that I had received no scratch. I was dressed in a coarse Attakapas cottonade short jacket, under which I had a red flannel and a linen shirt. Through the folds of all these the fangs of the serpent had not penetrated, although at the time I should hardly have known it had the venomous reptile bitten my arm half off. I can conceive of nothing more startling than to find one's self suddenly in contact with a rattlesnake in the dark - the deadly sound of their alarm-notes is terrifying to a degree that sends the blood rushing to the heart, paralyzes the faculties, and strikes a cold tremour through the system with the suddenness of an electric shock.

The party who had gone out to look for the buffalo returned after dark, unsuccessful in their search. As the direction the animal had taken was well known, however, it was determined to send out a party early in the morning to hunt for him. We knew that he must be so badly wounded as to be past running ; our hopes were that he had not died in the early part of the night and been devoured by wolves.

Frank Combs and myself were still bedfellows, doubling our scanty covering on the wet, cold nights, so as to render both more comfortable. I had now scarcely crawled under the blankets he had spread upon the ground, before the heavy drops which precede a prairie shower began falling, and before I had well tucked and nestled myself in a comfortable position a perfect avalanche of rain was pouring upon me. Every one of my readers who has taken a cold bath, must recollect the hesitation, the shrugs, the shiverings and the chills with which he first entered the water - the difficulty of making up his mind to essay the dreaded plunge when he knows full well it is to be made : so it is with a bivouac upon the prairie during a heavy thunder-shower. The unfortunate wight, who is destined to undergo a soaking, at first attempts to keep himself dry when his better sense teaches him that all efforts of the kind must prove unavailing. As the cold stream first penetrates his blanket, and trickles down his sides, he screws his body inward or outward to avoid the chilling current. Anon, another stream finds its way, then another, until finally he feels that farther attempts to stay the flood from without are useless, and he then stretches himself in as favourable a position as he can, and composes himself to that sleep which tired nature is sure to exact. The shower which fell, on the occasion to which I have just alluded, was among the heaviest of the heavy. The lightning lit up the prairie in every direction, and the darkness which succeeded each flash appeared to me of more than common blackness - thick and impenetrable - a wall of gloom. The wind, too, howled and moaned around us, and struck a cold chill through our scanty covering. Tired and faint, however, from want of food and the unusual fatigues of the day, wet and cold as I was, I soon fell asleep.

The next morning, while we were drying our blankets, a party went out in search of the buffalo, and with success. They found him badly wounded and unable to run, and a single well-directed ball completed at length our work of the previous evening. On taking off his hide, it was found that more than thirty balls had struck him. They were mostly small, however, and not one of them had touched a vital part, although he must have died during the day from the wounds. Every pound of his poor and tough flesh, for he was an old and lean bull, was brought into camp, and after it had been equally divided among the different messes, preparations were made for our immediate departure.

Our encampment was on the bank of a small ravine, bordered by a flank of low hackberry and other trees. It was almost the only place we had yet seen on the immense upper prairie where a sufficiency of wood could be found for cooking purposes, even had we been in possession of anything to cook; now that we had meat we were compelled by circumstances to continue the march, hungry as wolves, and with the raw material for at least a full breakfast hanging at our saddleskirts.

We had scarcely proceeded a mile before we encountered a narrow but deep gully, running nearly north and south, filled to the top with water. Having no certainty of finding a fording-place near, we dashed boldly in and swam safely across. The passage made, the journey was resumed, and briskly we scoured across the desolate prairie. We hurried rapidly on, with the hope that before nightfall we might discover either trees or bushes of some kind with which to cook our buffalo meat, but the sun went down, and with it all our prospects of having a well-dressed supper.

We gathered a few buffalo chips* - excellent fuel when dry, and universally used for cooking purposes by all travellers upon the lone prairies - but in the present instance they had been made damp by the heavy nightshowers, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we could ignite them at all. We made out, however, to warm our meat a little - I will not say that it was cooked - and voraciously did I swallow several pounds of the tough, unsavoury food.

That night, and for the first time since we had struck the grand prairie, we were serenaded by a pack of wolves, which skulked and howled for hours within a few yards of our outposts. The " sign" was considered highly favourable, as these animals are seldom found

* This is the name given by Western traders to the immense quantity of buffalo ordure found scattered over the surface of the prairie. When dry and ignited it gives out a strong heat, emits little offensive smell, and answers the purpose of a wood fire very well. The hunter throws his meat upon the coals, or places it upon his gunstick and holds it over the fire - in either case it is well cooked.

far from woods or settlements. An old backwoodsman remarked that we should find Indians, white people, or an end to the prairie, the next day.

On the following morning we made an early start, the prairie before us still presenting the same lone and dreary appearance. We had travelled but a few miles when a drove of horses, numbering some seventy-five, was discovered a short distance to our left. They were near enough for us to see plainly that they were horses, and if wild ones that they were uncommonly tame, while many of our party asserted that they could see human beings among them, resting quietly upon the ground or moving about. Some even said that they could see mounted men in the extreme distance, as though driving in the cavallada; at all events, the different surmises and assertions created an unwonted excitement among us. If our neighbours were only mustangs, it was an evidence that we were near the edge of the gloomy prairie, for those animals are seldom seen in large numbers far from mesquits and watercourses ; if they were Indians, we might obtain some information from them, as they could hardly be Caygiias ; and again, if they were Mexicans, and we really thought they were, then our journey might almost be considered at an end - we could obtain information of the nearest route to the settlements, and very likely a supply of provisions for our immediate use. Our main party halted and formed, while three or four of us set off with the intention of taking a closer look at our neighbours. We hoisted a flag of truce, and a sorry flag it was. I was the owner and possessor of a handkerchief which, in its better days, had been white. It was now a miserable whity brown ; but at the same time it came nearer a peaceful colour than anything we had, and was accordingly hoisted upon a ramrod and held aloft. As we gradually approached, there appeared to be no little commotion among the animals - a running hither and thither, as is the custom with wild horses. We had noticed three or four white spots among them, which, in the distance, we had taken for flags; a nearer approach convinced some of us that these spots were young colts. With this impression we returned to the main body, but even up to this time I more than half believe that they were tame animals, and that human beings were moving among them. Had we proceeded a short half mile farther towards them all doubts would have been set at rest, and possibly we might have saved ourselves many miles of weary travel and many hours of starvation.*

About the middle of the day, and some ten miles from the place where we had seen the horses, the deep-blue tops of a range of mountains were discerned, which, as we journeyed on, soon more plainly developed themselves. It may be readily conceived that this was a joyful sight to all. We had now been seven days upon the prairie, averaging at least thirty miles a day, and many began to despair of ever getting off the dreary waste. There was now a prospect of a change, and any change, we then thought, would be for the better. We continued on until near three o'clock, when suddenly a beautiful valley, studded here and there with a clump of trees, appeared in sight. To the north, in the distance, there was every appearance of a large stream of water, and that, in our fond anticipations, we put

* We afterward met with a party of Mexicans who said that, while encamped, they had seen us upon the great prairie, and that from our actions they thought we were about to approach them. Perhaps this was the same party.

down as the long-sought-for Red River. A halt was called in a pleasant little grove of cotton- woods, through which a small stream of fresh water was gently purling, and here we built a large fire of wood from a dry and fallen tree, cooked what was left of our tough buffalo meat, and dried our wet blankets and clothing. Two hours were spent at this comfortable campingground, after which we mounted and pursued our uncertain journey. Unable to continue our old course, northwest, on account of deep and abrupt ravines to the northward, we travelled west this afternoon, through narrow valleys encircled by high, conical, and singularly-formed hills. At sundown we reached a small spring among these hills, where we bivouacked at once. During this night there was a panic and half stampede among our animals, caused, in the opinion of the guard, by the appearance of a small drove of mustangs on the steep hills which overlooked our encampment.

Resuming the march early on the following morning, we soon became entangled among high, steep, and rugged hills, the passage over which was almost impossible. Such was the nature of this singular piece of country that we were compelled, although reluctantly, to abandon entirely the course we had so long travelled, and seek an outlet from the hills in a direction south of west. We were all anxious to visit the river on our right, to note its general appearance, taste its waters, and form some opinion as to the probabilities of its being Red River ; but as well might we have undertaken the task of climbing the largest cotton-wood upon its banks on horseback as that of cutting our way through the natural obstacles which intervened between us and the stream. But go on in some direction we must ; and, as there was no alternative, we set off in a

Troubles Increasing

Even the country over which we were now compelled to travel, much as it threw us off our course, was exceedingly rough, and for the sake of our poor horses at least, we wished ourselves back upon the smooth and open prairie. Many of their shoes were torn off by the rocks, and, unused to go without them, their feet became so tender and sore that they could not move without difficulty. To this should be added our own catalogue of misfortunes - travelling, day after day, while enduring the sharpest pangs of hunger, and in a state of harassing uncertainty as to our present situation, even more annoying than the starvation - with all these hardships to undergo, the reader can easily imagine that our chances were becoming desperate. We saw numbers of antelope and deer during the day, and passed through one or two prairie dog towns situated deep in the narrow and secluded valleys ; the animals were all so shy, however, that it was impossible to get a shot at them. The prairie dogs, in particular, appeared to shun us with more than their ordinary prudence - giving their short yelps of alarm before we were within half a mile of them, then tumbling hurriedly into their holes, and not once showing their heads so long as we were in sight. At night we encamped at another spring among the hills, without having tasted food since our scanty meal of buffalo meat on the preceding day. We tightened our belts by taking up still another hole - a great relief when suffering from want of food - and then threw ourselves upon the ground to seek forgetfulness in sleep.

slowly nearing the chain of mountains west of us. About the middle of the afternoon - it was the 8th of September ; I can never forget the date - we got clear of the hills, and entered a narrow but fertile valley running nearly cast and west. A light fringing of trees in advance convinced us that the valley was watered by a stream larger than any we had recently met with, and with excited feelings we pressed our jaded animals forward. Our anticipations of finding a fresh-water stream were more than realized - we came suddenly upon the banks of a beautiful river of most delicious water, running over a bed of yellow sand, and so low that we forded it with ease. In the vicinity we found stumps of trees which had evidently been cut down by Mexicans. Remnants of old cart-standards and wheels were also discovered : proof conclusive that the place had been visited by other than Indians. With gladdened hearts \vc scanned these evidences of civilization, and even the keen cravings of hunger were for the moment forgotten in the anticipation of soon reaching the settlements.