Santa Fe, Texas - Narrative of the Texan Santa Fé Expedition, Comprising a Description O (part 8 of 9)

Shrewdly conjecturing, now that he had raised a whirlwind, that he might easily direct the storm to his own personal advancement, Armijo, after the manner of his great prototype, Santa Anna, suddenly left his hacienda and made his appearance at Santa Fe. There he found everything in a state of frightful anarchy - the place in the hands of an ignorant mob, and the American and other foreign merchants in hourly expectation that their houses and stores would be sacked, and even their lives taken. The rabble dispersed, however, committing no other outrage than electing one of their own leaders, an ignorant and unlettered fellow named Jose Gonzalez, governor of New Mexico. They paid no attention to the claim set up by Armijo, the fomenter, as he had exposed himself in no way to the anticipated hard blows and knocks which had given them the ascendancy.

querque with the proceeds of his cheating, stealing, and gambling transactions. But an active and ambitious mind like his could not long remain inert. Through secret intrigues, he managed, after the lapse of three or four months, to organize a counter-revolution, and collecting a numerous force, he declared in favour of Federalism, and marched towards Santa Fe. He took quiet possession of this place, as Governor Gonzalez, finding himself without an army, had fled to the north. The latter was soon enabled, however, to rally around him no inconsiderable mob ; but Armijo, in the mean time, had received heavy re-enforcements from the south, and succeeded in routing Gonzalez without loss, taking him and many of his principal men prisoners. The unfortunate governor was immediately shot, and four of his chief officers met with the same fate by order of Armijo. The latter were put out of the way more, it is said, to prevent disclosures than for any crime they had committed ; for they had been Armijo's confidential emissaries in the formation of his original plot.

The ambitious tyrant, now that his enemies were either murdered or dispersed, reigned supreme in New Mexico. One of his first steps was to bribe the army to proclaim him governor and commander-in-chief ; his next, to send off" a highly-coloured account of his own exploits in favour of Federalism to the city of Mexico, and no officer can more adroitly adopt the high-sounding fanfaronade style in wording a despatch or an address than Manuel Armijo. Such disinterested patriotism, such love of the confederacy, and such daring bravery as he had manifested could not go unrewarded, and a return of post from Mexico brought documents confirming him in his station of governor, with

Armijo As Governor

The year 1838 passed off without any event of great importance - Armijo still governor, and ruling his vassals with a rod of iron. In the early part of 1839, without a shadow of law or authority, he deposed all the custom-house officers and appointed his own brother and his other creatures in their stead, in order that he might have the exclusive control and management of the customs in his own hands. He next, without regard to the federal tariff, established an arbitrary duty upon all merchandise entering from the United States - $500 upon each wagon-load, without reference to the quality of the goods it might contain, or their value. To some of the traders, whose wagons happen to be heavily laden with the finer kinds of merchandise, this singular imposition is exceedingly favourable ; while to others, with light or not valuable loading, it is equally oppressive.

From the material which I have at hand, I could give a connected detail of weekly acts of cruel injustice and most glaring partiality. Fenelon's graphic picture of a bad ruler has a living and faithful counterpart in the present governor of New Mexico. Foreigners are the especial objects of his hatred ; and acts and decisions affecting the well-being of his whole province are as often founded upon a feeling of hatred towards a small class, or, perhaps, some luckless individual who has excited his jealousy or fallen under the ban of his most unaccountable caprice, as upon a sentiment of justice and necessity. Still oftener do his acts of public administration have their source in some private advantage to which he has a single eye - it may be in the furthering of some libertine and lustful scheme that would disgrace the veriest roue in Christendom. Still, there is not that overt demonstration of malice towards foreigners that he daily makes towards his own cringing and servile countrymen. He is afraid of Anglo- Saxon blood, and he seeks to spill it by protecting the knife of the secret assassin, or by influencing, to most outrageous decisions, his farcical courts of law. Not unfrequently do his own lusty sinews find congenial employment, in the open streets of Santa Fe, in wielding the cane and cudgel about the ears of his native subjects, and never yet has one been found bold enough to strike back. He raps them over the sconce with more impunity, because with vastly less sentiment, than did Hamlet the grinning scull of " poor Yorick."

Out of a multiplicity I will record two anecdotes, in order to illustrate his system of righting wrongs. The first came near resulting in a serious quarrel between the American residents and the governor, and the difficulty was only avoided by the latter abandoning his objectionable ground. An American named Daley was wantonly murdered at the gold mines near Santa Fe, by two ruffians engaged in robbing a store which he was keeping at that place. The murderers, through the energy of foreigners, were soon apprehended, and fully convicted of the crime ; but as they were Mexicans, and had only shed the blood of a heretic, were permitted to go un whipped of justice. In July, 1839, these murderers were again arrested through the interposition of the Americans, and a second time brought to Santa Fe for trial. The friends of the murdered man now drew up a petition to the governor, in the most decorous language, praying him to mete out full justice to the assassins. Armijo, although he knew full well the justice of their prayer, affected to believe it a threat against his authority and government - a conspiracy ! Upon this pretence he immediately collected all the militia he could raise, and made preparations for one of his bravado demonstrations. The Americans, convinced that no justice could be expected from a tyrant so unprincipled, and fully understanding the " bluffing game" he had resorted to, at once, with characteristic spirit, prepared to defend themselves. Their firmness and cool determination frightened the cowardly governor and induced him to send them an apologetical communication, in which he protested that he had entirely misconstrued the petition, and that their just request should have due attention.

In the year 1840, 1 think on the first day of January, two most respectable foreigners had the misfortune to kill a Mexican lad by the accidental discharge of one of their guns. They were returning to Santa Fe from the gold mines when the unfortunate accident occurred, and brought the body of the boy into town and at once reported the circumstance to the authorities. The principal alcalde consulted with Armijo as to the steps he should take, and the decision was, without form of trial, that the unfortunate foreigners should be put in prison and held responsible for murder, unless they could prove themselves innocent ! This is a very common instance of the manner in which the potentate administers justice. But there was something in this case so palpably unjust, in the eyes of those who knew the men and the facts, as once more to call out such manifestations of public disapprobation as induced him to retract so outrageous a sentence.

In the early part of February, 1840, a concurrence of two or three acts of most wanton injustice, conceived in cupidity and lust, came near resulting in revolution. Gc2

Armijo is an extensive merchant, and it becomes a part of his policy to pay off the public dues in his own merchandise at most enormous profits. When it is remembered that he is at once governor, commander-in-chief, legislator, custom-house officer, auditor, treasurer, and judge, the practicability of this policy becomes apparent. Public creditors can get no money from the treasury because it is always bankrupt, or at least so represented, notwithstanding the custom-house receipts on importations are more than enough to pay the army, to which purpose they are especially set apart On the occasion alluded to, some twenty regular soldiers, stationed at Santa Fe, were thrown into prison and loaded with irons as malecontents for refusing to receive their wages in corn from Armijo's granary at four dollars a fanega - a measure containing about two bushels - when they could purchase in market for cash at one third of the price. This outrageous act of tyranny created an unwonted excitement against its author, so much so, that he found it necessary to resort to a specious kind of trickery, a display of disinterestedness, to allay the popular clamour. He advertised a contract to the lowest bidder, to furnish the soldiers with corn. But this Mexican display of honesty neither deceived nor satisfied even his stupid countrymen ; for they at once declared that no one but Armijo could take the contract at any price, as the insolvent government never paid any creditor but him. Thus the matter remained just as it had begun, and just as this most patriotic governor intended it should, with this exception - the manifestations of discontent became more open and threatening. Two young officers of the army, in particular, had fallen under the ban of the governor's displeasure before, and were now suspected of having used their influence in fomenting the disaffection that seemed universal among the soldiers. His hatred of these young and meritorious officers had its origin in an affaire cfamour, which, as it exhibits a new phase in the multiplex character of Armijo - multiplex in all that is corrupt and debasing - I will here relate.

Don Santiago Abreu,* a minister in the administration of Governor Perez, and massacred Jn the former revolution, left a handsome, and, in such advantages as her country afforded, an accomplished daughter, Dona Soledad Abreu ; a maiden whom fifteen summers had ripened into early womanhood. After Armijo's elevation, he insidiously beset the fair doncella with libertine intentions ; but she proudly and scornfully resisted all his advances, fortified not more, perhaps, by a sentiment of intrinsic virtue than by the inveterate hatred she entertained for the governor. She knew that he had been the mortal enemy of her father - the undoubted instigator of his assassination - such a misci'eant could find little favour with the pretty Soledad. But this great man was not to be so easily foiled, and attempted by intrigue what he had failed to accomplish in a direct way. He influenced a match between Dona Soledad and Esquipulas Caballero, one of his ensigns, and in the plenitude of his good-nature honoured their nuptials by officiating as sponsor at the ceremony.

He now renewed his vile importunities, and, as he supposed, with better prospect of success. He held, in a manner, the destiny of the young officer in his hands ; but in every attempt to accomplish his unholy object he was most signally baffled. The maiden and the wife proved alike invulnerable to his solicitations and his threats. At last, convinced of the impregnable virtue of Soledad, he gave up the pursuit, and began making good the deep oaths of vengeance he had often sworn. Her he could not reach directly, but he found means to degrade her unoffending husband and her favourite uncle, who was also a young ensign in his army, named Ramon Baca. Ordering a grand review of the troops, with no other intention than to humble these young cadets, he publicly promoted to a rank above them several officers of inferior grade - a most galling slight in the eyes of a young military aspirant, and a kind of vengeance worthy only of the great Armijo. He even promoted, from the rank of common soldier to a grade above them, a fellow who had been an agent and pander in many of his licentious transactions. The young officers, who were the most deserving and meritorious in the whole corps, now finding themselves at the tail of the army, presented a respectful petition to his excellency, praying to be reinstated. This so irritated the tyrant, that he threatened them with instant death if they ever ventured to molest him again with similar importunities, and Caballero, the husband of the pretty Soledad, upon affected suspicion of favouring the disaffected soldiers, was cast into prison with them and heavily ironed !

Baca, upon some frivolous charge, was ordered out of the country. The 9th of February was the day fixed by the governor for his banishment ; but when the time came the young man declared to his friends that he would not depart, but would raise an insurrection and sacrifice his and their oppressor, or perish in the attempt. With a sword at his side he promenaded the streets of Santa Fe during the forenoon, with great boldness walked directly under Armijo's windows and held conferences with the soldiers. Without a friend to inform him of the young officer's intention, Armijo remained in utter ignorance of the plot ; yet the inhabitants were all aware of the intended revolution, and anxiously awaited an outbreak they deemed inevitable. But the good fortune of the despot did not desert him in this extremity. Had a single blow been struck, his power and his oppressions would have ended ; for, whenever the star of his destiny tends downward, it will gravitate with a velocity vastly accelerated by the universal hatred in which he is held by his subjects ; but when called upon by the heroic Baca the soldiers at first hesitated, and then declared that they would render him no assistance. They had promised to aid, to join him ; but either from lack of confidence in him as a leader, or from craven fear of Armijo, they were deterred from an open demonstration. Thus was this embryo revolution, which gave such excellent promise, crushed through the timidity of a handful of soldiers.

In the afternoon, young Baca mounted his horse, and riding to the barracks, made a short speech to his brethren in arms. It was a farewell address, couched in decorous terms, and at its conclusion the really gallant officer departed on his exile. But by this time Armijo had obtained information of the contemplated revolt, and immediately sent off a detachment of dragoons with orders to bring back the young officer, dead or alive. He was overtaken, and thinking himself betrayed by the soldiery, quietly gave up his arms, was guarded back to Santa Fe, and thrust into the same dungeon with his friend Caballero. At first it was thought that Armijo would order them to immediate execution ; but fearing the populace, among whom they had so many friends, he finally sent them off to the city of Mexico to be tried for treason, himself to furnish all the proof. The father of young Caballero, a brave and meritorious officer, but broken down by age and dissipation, was carried to the door of Armijo to intercede for his son; but the tyrant denied him an audience. The shock was too much for the old man : he was borne to his home only to be carried thence to his grave, and his loss was much lamented by both foreigners and natives.

The young officers were released on reaching Chihuahua, and afterward visited the city of Mexico with the hope of obtaining redress. They were unable to effect anything, however, for by the time they were allowed a hearing the Texan expedition to New Mexico began to be agitated, and the aspect of affairs at Santa Fe was now too critical for the General Government to think of tampering with her tyrannical governor.

In his rude palacio at Santa Fe he is more the despot than anywhere else, maintaining himself proudly, and enforcing all the regal homage and courtly ceremonial exacted by the veriest tyrant. A guard, musket on shoulder, marches before the entrance to his door, denying entrance to all unless they have first obtained the royal permission. Should his excellency feel in the humour of walking out, the cry from the centinela is, " The governor and commander-in-chief appears !" and this is echoed and re-echoed from every guard in and about the barracks. When his majesty is in the street, each dutiful subject takes off whatever apology for a hat he may have on his head. Should the governor's wife, a gross, brazen-faced woman, issue from the building, the form is even more ridiculous, for then the cry of " La gobernadora /" or " La commandante generala /" resounds on every side. This woman is contaminated with every depraved habit known to human nature ; and as her husband is a debauchee by " special prerogative," she does not scruple to act as his alcahueta in all his amours. In the mean time she is not without her own lovers - a worthy couple, truly !

It is strange how this man has been able to maintain his despotic and arbitrary sway among a people acknowledging no law but that of force. The inhabitants are far more dissatisfied with his administration than they were with that of Perez and his cabinet of Abreus ; yet so far they have dared to do no more than plot revolutions against their oppressor. He continues to hold sway in a country where he has not a real friend upon whom he can depend ; even his sycophantic favourites would prove his bitterest enemies were he once in adversity. Could the Texans have entered New Mexicd in a body, with plenty of provisions, Armijo would have fled with his ill-gotten wealth, and the new-comers would have been hailed by all parties as deliverers.

I might diversify this hasty biography of Don Manuel Armijo, from the abundant material which I have yet by me unused, with stories of his atrocious acts that would bring a blush upon the brow of tyranny. I might detail many horrible murders which he has committed. I could relate many a thrilling story of his abuse of the rights of women, that would make Saxon hearts burn with indignant fire ; for Saxon hearts enshrine the mothers of men as objects sacred and apart. I might speak of his conniving with the Apache Indians, in their robberies of his neighbours of the State of Chihuahua, by furnishing this hardy mountain tribe with powder and balls and guns, knowing that with them they would fall, like the eagle, from their fastnesses, upon his own countrymen, I could give a catalogue of men's names whom he has banished- from their own families and homes, for no reason but because they were in his way. Assassinations, robberies, violent debauchery, extortions, and innumerable acts of broken faith are themes upon which I am armed with abundant and most veritable detail ; but my readers would sicken, and my narrative leads me another way. A few remarks and I have done with him.

The mien and deportment of Armijo are not ill calculated to strike a timorous people with awe ; for, as I have before remarked, he is a large, portly man, of stern countenance and blustering manner. Not one jot or tittle of personal bravery does he possess, but is known to be a most arrant coward. In all the revolutions that have taken place since he first courted power, Tiis own person has never been exposed, if we except one instance. In a skirmish with some Indians he received a wound in the leg, from which he still limps ; but the action was not of his own seeking, and his conduct on this occasion was that of a man engaged in a business anything but to his liking. He has made great capital, however, of his crippled leg, and, like his great exemplar, Santa Anna, is determined that his subjects shall never forget that he received it while encountering their enemy. But the master-stroke of this great man was the capturing the Texan Santa Fe Expedition. These small squads of tattered soldiers, taken piecemeal, in his grandiloquent bulletin he multiplied into a legion of Buckramites - for which act of most heroic daring he was, all in good time, knighted by Santa Anna. He knows his people thoroughly, having studied their character with a most acute discernment. A common remark of his is, " Vale mas estar tornado por valiente que serlo" - it is better to be thought brave

Unrealized Hopes

It may be thought singular that no attention is paid to Armijo's tyranny by the general government ; but his policy is only part of that which has obtained in many of the departments. In our own confederacy, we regard intelligence as the great bond of union ; the reverse is the case in Mexico - a sufficient test to prove that the so-called Republic is no Republic at all. To General Manuel Armijo I will now bid adieu; but I cannot do it without again saying, that, however much he may be astonished at seeing his portrait thus taken, he cannot urge a single syllable against its fidelity.

Unrealized Hopes. - A Brood of unhatched Chickens. - We are quartered with our Companions. - Arrival of " Old Paint." - Joy at seeing the Veteran. - Another Meeting with Friends. - Stories of Suffering. - Liberated Prisoners again confined. - Armijo and Lewis. - Departure for the City of Mexico. - A long and gloomy March before us. - The Brute Salezar in Command. - Bustamente and the Women of San Miguel. - Causes of the Failure of the Santa Fe Expedition. - Arrival at a deserted Mission. - Sufferings of the Prisoners from Cold. - More of Salezar's Brutalities. - The dreary March continued. - Arrival at Pino's Rancho. - Farther Sufferings. - A cold Camping-ground. - Hard Fare. - Frostbitten Feet. - Horrible Threat of Salezar. - San Domingo. - Kindness of the Women. - San Felipe. - First Sight of the Rio Grande. - Algodones. - A Second "Black Hole of Calcutta." - Arrival at. the Indian Village of Sandia. - A singular Rite. - Description of the Inhabitants. - Alameda. - Scene in an Oven. - Misery makes us acquainted with strange Bedfellows. - Sufferings on the Increase. - Bottoms of the Rio Grande; their Fertility. - Albuquerque in Sight. - Herons and Wild Geese. - A dashing Mexican Horseman. - Lieutenant Hornsby abducted. - Arrival at Albuquerque. - The Family of Armijo. - Farther Kindness of the Women. - General Pike's Journal. - The Pretty Girl of Albuquerque.

Neither myself nor my companions thought it could be otherwise. I had received assurance after assurance, from every quarter, that as soon as the Texans were on the march an order for my release would be made out and issued by Armijo ; and so sanguine were my illusory hopes that such would be the case, that the evening previous I had spent in speculations as to my future movements. On leaving New-Orleans, in the preceding May, I had fondly anticipated reaching Santa Fe by the 1 st of August, at farthest, and the city of Mexico by the 1st of October, after having seen all the " sights" between the two points. It was now the middle of the latter month, a period so late in the season as to render my returning to the United States, by way of Bent's Fort and Independence, impracticable, so that I should be forced, as I then thought, to go as far as Chihuahua, at least, into the interior of Mexico. From that point I determined, if it would facilitate my journey home, to leave the main route to Mexico and travel directly to Matamoros. I even made my calculations, in case Armijo would not give up my horse, to purchase him of his present owner if possible ; or if I was disappointed in once more obtaining possession of this tried and faithful steed, I at least determined upon purchasing a large and untiring mule which had belonged to Van Ness.

A larger brood of unhatched chickens has probably never been counted. When the sun had appeared above the eastern summits of the mountains which environ San Miguel, I was ordered to march, with my three companions, to the quarters occupied by the main body of Texan prisoners. Our meeting was an occasion of strong and diverse emotions - joy once more to shake the hands of those with whom we had shared the

But a few minutes elapsed ere " Old Paint" Caldwell, with his nine comrades, was escorted from the house of our friend Vigil and placed in line with the other prisoners. A low but cordial shout of welcome arose on the still morning air as the men saw the veteran approach, and warm were the greetings as he shook hands with the eager crowd that pressed around him. Question followed question in such quick succession that no time was given to answer ; stories of suffering and of wrong were broken off half finished, in such haste was each man to unbosom his rapid-crowding thoughts. The burden of the stories on every side was of starvation, murdered friends and broken Mexican faith, mixed with deep curses upon the head of Lewis, whose perfidy was by this time generally known.

Before these first greetings were over, Lieutenants Scott and Burgess, with young Howard, were escorted in from the rancho of old Antonio Baca. Here was another meeting of deep joy alloyed with melancholy ; the latter had a brother among us, and all had warm friends. My friend Falconer, too, reduced in flesh, but still preserving the full measure of his buoyant spirits, we found in the crowd.

Even up to this period I had not lost all hope of being liberated : Armijo had released four of the Texans, then why not me ? He had all my papers in his possession - documents proving incontestably that I had no part or lot with the expedition he had been fortunate enough to capture - and with such proofs in his hands, upon what grounds could he detain me longer ? He had none other than his arbitrary will - the supreme law of New Mexico. But whatever hopes I might have entertain- ed, up to this time, of being released, they were now banished on seeing the four Texans, who had for several days enjoyed unconditional liberty, marched in among us. They knew not the cause, could divine no motive which might have induced Armijo to this singular step, unless Lewis was at the bottom of it. At one moment the governor had liberated these men, and assigned them all lucrative situations : they had scarcely tasted the sweets of freedom before they were again arrested, brought in, and penned with their imprisoned comrades. Not a doubt exists that to Lewis these four men, as well as myself, were indebted for months of suffering, peril, and imprisonment : the traitor probably thought that we had found out and would make his treachery known to the Americans at Santa Fe, and thus render the place too hot for his comfort or safety. He had a certain influence with Armijo, which he might have used for the melioration of our lot ; but the same cowardly impulse -which urged him, by base means, to save himself from the Mexicans, now caused him, in a more traitorous way, to save himself from his own countrymen.

After we had been paraded in the plaza of San Miguel, and the ceremony of counting us had been gone through, it was ascertained that the notorious Salezar - the greatest brute among Armijo's officers - was to have charge of us. This was considered unfortunate by all, and even our old and tricky friend Bustamente, who came up to bid us farewell, privately took occasion to manifest his regret that such a cold-blooded wretch was to have charge of us. The \vomen, too, who had been so kind to myself and companions while in San Miguel, now came up and shook our hands for the last time, many of the girls affected even to tears at the gloomy prospect before us, and openly warning us to beware crossing Salezar in any of his demands or wishes. The beginning of a cold and disagreeable winter was at hand, as we set off on foot upon a journey of over two thousand miles - we were in the hands of a brute whose only delight was in cruelty and blood - should we be fortunate enough to withstand the fatigues attendant upon the journey, an uncertain fate awaited us at its termination ; thus, with hope lending hardly a gleam of sunshine to the dark clouds before us, the reader can easily imagine that our condition was gloomy in the extreme.

And what mistake had brought this sorrowful issue to our enterprise ? In as few words as possible I will answer the question. In the first place, the expedition began its march too late in the season by at least six weeks. Had it left Austin on the 1st of May, the grass would have been much better, and we should have had little difficulty in finding good water both for ourselves and cattle. In the second place, we were disappointed in obtaining a party of the Lipan Indians as guides, and were consequently obliged to take a route some three hundred miles out of the way, and in many places extremely difficult of travel. Thirdly, the government of Texas did not furnish wagons and oxen enough to transport the goods of the merchants, and this, as a matter of course, caused tedious delays. Fourthly, cattle enough on the hoof were not provided, even with the second supply sent for by the commissioners from Little River. Again, the distance was vastly greater than we had anticipated in our widest and wildest calculations, owing to which circumstance, and an improvident waste of provisions while in the buffalo range, we found ourselves upon half allowance in the very middle of our long jour- ney - a privation which weakened, dispirited, and rendered the men unfit for duty. The Indians also annoyed us much, by their harassing and continual attempts to cut off our small parties and steal our horses. Finally, the character of the governor of New Mexico was far from being understood, and his power was underrated by all. General Lamar's estimate of the views and feelings of the people of Santa Fe and the vicinity was perfectly correct ; not a doubt can exist that they all were and are anxious to throw off the oppressive yoke of Armijo, and come under the liberal institutions of Texas ; but the governor found us divided into small parties, broken down by long marches and want of food, discovered a traitor among us, too, and taking advantage of these circumstances, his course was plain and his conquest easy.

Far different would have been the result had the expedition reached the confines of New Mexico a month earlier, and in a body. Then, with fresh horses, and a sufficiency of provisions for the men, the feelings of the inhabitants could have been ascertained ; the proclamations of General Lamar would have been distributed among them ; the people would have had an opportunity to come over to Texas without fear, and the feeble opposition Armijo could have made, and I doubt whether he would have made any against the Texans in a body, could have been put down with ease. Had it been evident that a majority of the inhabitants were satisfied under their present government, and unfriendly to a union with Texas, then the goods would have been sold, and the force withdrawn - at least, such was the tenour of the proclamations. No attack would have been made upon the inhabitants - that was expressly understood ; but had Armijo seen fit to commence hos- tilities, his power in New Mexico would have been at an end. Fate decreed otherwise, and by a series of unforeseen and unfortunate circumstances the expedition was thrown into his hands.

To return to our present gloomy situation. A guard numbering nearly two hundred men, mounted upon horses, mules, and asses, and miserably armed with bows and arrows, lances, or worthless muskets, rode upon either side of us, single file, as we trudged along on foot We had questions innumerable to ask each other, and during the day I learned from Mr. Falconer and others the particulars of their journey across the Grand Prairie,* and of their capture. The story was one of great hardship and suffering. The implacable Caygiias had harassed them continually, killed several of their men, and at one time rode directly through the camp, and succeeded in stampeding no less than eightyseven horses, which were never recovered. When we left them, on the 31st of August, it was thought that they would hear from us at farthest by the 10th of September, but the 15th of that month came, and still no tidings. On that day a council of officers was held, at which it was determined to wait five days longer, and then, if no news should be received of Colonel Cooke's party, it was resolved to burn the wagons and goods, and make the best of their way back to Texas by forced marches, living upon their horses and mules, after the beef should have been exhausted, until they could reach the buffalo and hunting range. Unfortunately the guides sent back by us, after we had passed the Angosturas, reached General McLeod's encampment on the 17th of Septem-

* By this name I designate the immense prairie we crossed after ascending the steppe, or chain of high hills, west of the Palo Dura It is the Llano Estacado of the New Mexicans.

To show how unfortunate had been our choice of route, after leaving the main party on the Palo Duro, it is sufficient to say that the guides we sent back traversed the distance in three days and a half - whereas it had taken us fourteen. The distance must have been, by their route, nearly two hundred miles ; yet by travelling night and day they were enabled to make their journey in the short time mentioned. The guides, too, were enabled to find, what we had supposed impracticable, a road for the wagons up the high and precipitous steppe, and when once on the summit, instead of taking the northwest course which had brought us directly upon the deep chasms and other obstructions, they guided the command in a due west direction, finding a smooth road, and heading the chasms entirely. Had Colonel Cooke known this route on leaving the main body, the fate of the expedition might have been different.

But even on gaining the Grand Prairie, and with the bright hopes of soon reaching the settlements, and a sufficiency of food before them, the sufferings of the men composing the main party were still intolerable. The Caygiias pursued them some distance, hovering upon their flanks and rear, and cutting off several small parties who had been driven by hunger to seek for grapes, plums, or game. The men were out of salt, their daily allowance was only one pound and a half of starved and sickly beef, which was probably two thirds bone, and their wants had caused great debility and disease among them. It is only necessary to metition, in order to show the great sufferings they endured, that every dog in camp - and several of the Indian curs had followed us - was killed and greedily devoured.

Surrender Op General Mcleod

Snakes, lizards, tortoises, polecats - in short, almost every living and creeping thing upon the face of the prairie, were eaten with avidity, so ravenous was their hunger. Not a vestige, save the horns, hoofs, and larger bones of the beeves, was left - the wolves and buzzards were even cheated of their just allowance, the hide and entrails, for all was devoured.

On arriving at the Laguna Colorada, a small sheet of reddish water south of the Angosturas, the advance of General McLeod was opposed by the Mexicans under Colonel Archulete. Out of more than two hundred men, it was now found that the Texans could muster but about ninety who were really fit for active service, and these would have been obliged to act on foot entirely, as their horses had been either run off in the stampede on the Palo Duro, or kept so closely within the lines that they could not obtain grass enough to sustain their strength. Many of the men who had lost their horses, weak and dispirited from long marches and want of food, had secretly thrown away their arms to lighten themselves upon the road, and, in the mean time, that subordination, without which all efforts are useless, was in a measure lost. In this desperate condition, unable to hear a word concerning the fate of either Colonel Cooke or of two small parties they had sent out, and with the promise of good treatment and that their personal effects would be returned to them, a surrender was made. Many of the men, as well as officers, were ready and willing to bide the issue of an action in case their advance was opposed ; but they were overruled by the majority, and thus was the fate of the expedition sealed. The men had no sooner laid down their arms than they were searched, robbed, tied, and most grossly insulted, and then, with hardly pro- visions enough to sustain nature, marched hurriedly to San Miguel. Of their arrival in that place I have already made mention. I will now continue the journey towards the city of Mexico.

The 17th of October, the day on which we started from San Miguel, was warm and showery. Our route lay towards Santa Fe, and over the same ground myself and companions had travelled the day on which we first met Armijo. About sundown, foot-sore and completely exhausted after a hurried march of thirty miles over a rough and hilly road, we reached the old ruin of Pecos - in former times a mission and a fortress, but now uninhabitable, and fast crumbling to decay. Salezar drove us into an enclosure amid the ruins, and there herded us for the night in quarters not fit even for brutes, and without giving us a morsel of food !

Immediately to the north of Pecos, and within a few miles, rose a lofty mountain whose summit was now covered with snow. On the other side of this mountain, and immediately at. its base, lies the little mud-built city of Santa Fe, a place towards which we had been journeying for months, but which we were not destined to see.* As I have before remarked, the day had been hot and sultry, with a shower in the afternoon sufficient to moisten the ground. The only baggage in possession of the prisoners, besides the slight and ragged clothing upon their backs, was a single blanket for each man. In this each immediately rolled himself, and then

* General Zebulon M. Pike, in the narrative of his imprisonment in New Mexico, says that Santa Fe, from the mountain's sides, has the appearance of an immense fleet of flat-boats on the Mississippi, while Albert Pike, in his interesting sketches, likens its general features to those of an extensive brickkiln, or rather a succession of brick-kilns. Either comparison is doubtless correct, for such certainly is the appearance of all the towns in Northern Mexico through which I travelled.

Cold And Htjnger

stretched his weary limbs upon the cold, damp earth, vainly hoping that he might obtain rest and forgetfulness in sleep - but no such good fortune awaited us.

As if to increase our sufferings, a chill, biting wind sprang up, at dusk, fresh from the snow-clad mountain north of us, and in less than an hour it was so bitterly cold That to sleep was impossible. In vain did we crowd close to each other, in vain did we nestle in the little hollows formed in the uneven ground ; the piercing wind penetrated our scanty covering and benumbed our every energy. I tried to rise, as did many of the unfortunate prisoners ; but the cold wind had so stiffened our limbs, rendered in the first place heated and sore by the long mountain march, that we could scarcely move or turn over without enduring tortures the most excruciating. In this way, and without an hour's sleep, we passed our first night on the long road to Mexico,

Early in the morning we were ordered to continue the march, and without food. Salezar did, previous to starting, distribute some fifty small cakes among one hundred and eighty-seven half-starved men ; and the manner of this distribution showed the brutal nature of the wretch. Calling the prisoners around him, each with the hope that he was to receive something to allay the sharp cravings of hunger, he would toss one of these cakes high in the air, and then, with a glee absolutely demoniacal, watch the scramble that ensued as it fell among the suffering throng. It was a game of the strong against the weak, this struggle for the few mouthfuls of food which Salezar threw among them. The better attributes of our nature, the kind sympathies and generous forbearance which lift man above the brutes, were for a time overwhelmed, in a majority of the pris- oners, by long starvation and great bodily suffering ; and now, as the savage who had charge of them tossed the miserable pittance in the air, it was a study to watch their eager faces as it descended, to see with what wolflike ferocity they would rush to secure the prize, and the terrible struggle which was sure to ensue ere some one, stronger than his fellows, could secure it. Salezar was accompanied by our old acquaintance, Don Jesus, in this distribution ; and the satisfaction with which they watched the" fierce conflicts marked a new leaf in the dreadful chapter of human depravity.

This revolting scene was scarcely over before we were ordered to commence the day's march. Sore and stiff in every bone and joint, we started, many of the men being hardly able to hobble and halt along over the rough and rocky hills which now intervened between Pecos and the valley of the Rio Grande ; but as the sun gradually dispersed the morning mists, and exercise warmed our limbs and reduced the stiffness in our joints, we were enabled to move with less pain. Our course was now nearly south. The road forks near Pecos, the right-hand branch leading directly towards Santa Fe, while the left, which we were now to take, is the regular thoroughfare towards Albuquerque and the other towns on the Rio Grande.

After a march of some thirty miles, during which the men suffered incredibly from hunger, thirst, and extreme lameness, night overtook us at the small rancho of a man named Pino, a brother of the brute of that name mentioned in a former chapter. Before reaching it, my feet were so badly swollen and blistered that I was obliged to draw off my boots, and finish the march with no other protection against tho short and prickly grass than my stockings ; yet many of my fellow-prisoners

A Generous Mexican

We were driven, one by one, into a cow-pen or yard, and there encamped for the night, Salezar distributing a pint cup of meal to each man after having satisfied himself that none of us were missing. Even in his mode of counting us he exhibited his characteristic brutality ; for just as they drive sheep or cattle into pens in New Mexico, with the intention of enumerating them, so had he driven us !

A fence, which enclosed our pen, here partially protected us from the biting north wind, and in the early part of the night we were enabled to catch a little sleep. Towards morning, however, the weather changed to such a degree of coldness that farther repose was impossible - it was so cold that the frost was plainly visible on our thin blankets. So stiff and benumbed were the men by this time, from cold, want of sleep, and the excessive fatigue they had undergone, that even an order to rise at daybreak and continue the march was received with joy by all - it would at least enable us to obtain warmth, and lessen the acute pains we felt in every bone.

From Pino we learned that General McLeod, Mr. Navarro, Dr. Whittaker, Captains Houghton and Hudson, with two or three other officers, had passed the previous night at his rancho, and were provided with comfortable quarters. They had been sent forward one day in advance of the main body, on horseback, and as they were fortunate enough to fall into the hands of an officer of humane feeling, were well treated. The name of this officer, if I remember aright, was Quintana, and our friends who were under his charge always spoke of him as a kind-hearted, gentlemanly man.

S74 Pedal Sufferings

A walk of two or three hours, after leaving the rancho, relieved our limbs of the torturing pains felt during the latter part of the night, but our frostbitten feet now began swelling and paining us severely. The road of the two previous days had led over mountains and rugged hills ; we now struck upon the valley of a small stream running into the Rio Grande a short distance to our right. After a long and toilsome march, our men suffering at every step, we encamped upon the borders of the little stream for the night. Here we experienced great relief from bathing our inflamed and swollen feet in its cold waters.

After issuing to each man a miserable pittance of barley-bread, so hard that it was impossible to eat it without much boiling, Salezar told us that his orders from Armijo were to tie us every night ; but, as we were very tired, his humanity prevented him from carrying out the orders ! He placed a strong guard around us, however, and coolly remarked that if a single man was missing in the morning the whole party would be instantly shot ! The heartless wretch took especial good care that none should make an attempt of this kind, by working the men so hard during the day that they willingly sank upon the ground at night with hardly the power of moving.

A biting, chilly evening was followed by a heavy frost towards morning. Sleep was out of the question - we could only curl up, and by nestling close to each other upon the cold ground, keep from freezing. At daylight we were ordered to be ready to march, and before sunrise were again upon the road, with nothing to eat. To let my readers know the horrible condition of our feet, I will here state, that, for the next ten days after this, I was unable to pull off my stockings without bringing the skin with them. The large blisters would break during the day, and the exudation, as it dried, adhere firmly to my stockings, so that I was obliged to keep them on although full of gravel, and torturing me at every step. Many of my companions suffered much more from frostbitten feet than myself, their toe-nails coming off, in consequence, before we got through our journey.

At a brisk pace we were hurried forward, reaching the little village of Santo Domingo before it was yet noon, a distance of eighteen miles from our campingground of the previous night. At this village our men first had cause to thank the women for their kindness. The latter came running out of the mud houses in every direction, bringing tortillas, baked pumpkins, and dry ears of corn, and fairly shedding tears at our forlorn and miserable appearance. The corn was our principal food, and was swallowed after simply roasting the ears a short time before the fire, although many of the more hungry among our men ate it raw.

A little farther on, we entered the village of San Felipe, the banks of the Rio Grande now seen to the right. Our course was nearly south, occasionally approaching the banks of the river, and then leaving it as the turns threw us off. The women of San Felipe were in every way as charitable as those of San to Domingo. Many of them openly reproached Armijo as a brute unfit to live, and even the men took every opportunity to manifest their sorrow that we had fallen into his hands.

Towards night we reached Algodnes, a small village near the Rio Grande, and here we encamped. That the night would be unusually cold we were well aware, and Mr. Van Ness was requested by the men to ask Salezar if he could possibly procure shelter. Two small rooms, with a door leading from one to the other, and together hardly large enough for twenty men, were provided, and into these over one hundred and eighty of us were driven like so many sheep, and the heavy wooden door locked upon us. To lie down, or even sit down, was out of the question, and a scene of misery and desperation soon ensued which beggars description.

In the rear room there was no window, or other opening for a circulation of the air, except the door which opened into the front room, and this was blocked up by the mass who had crowded towards it. In the front room was a single open window, two feet in height, perhaps, by eighteen inches in width, and through this small aperture came all the fresh air that was to be inhaled by nearly two hundred persons ! In this room, and within three yards of the window, I stood firmly wedged and jammed by human flesh, unable to move either forward or backward, to the right or to the left ; yet even at this short distance from the window I soon felt sensations of suffocation - what, then, must have been the feelings of those in the farther room?

Soon outcries arose from those in the rear. Half stifled, they shouted aloud to those in front to break open or tear down the door, and madly pressed forward as if to assist in accomplishing the object of their wishes. In the mean time, those nearest the window, who could speak Spanish, begged the guard to open the door and allow at least a part to leave the house ; but the latter either could not hear their entreaties above the din, or heeded them not. Half suffocated, and with sensations of sickness and giddiness, thoughts of the Black Hole of Calcutta, with its attendant train of horrors, now came over us ; and I am confident that an order for instant execution would have been preferred, by many, to passing the night in that dismal, dark, and horrible place. An attempt to open the door inwardly was now made, but so great was the press in that direction that it was found impossible to effect this desirable object ; a battering-ram of human flesh was next brought to bear upon it, and with all the energy which desperation lends did our men endeavour to burst lock or hinges - but it gave not away. In the midst of cries, imprecations, and half-smothered anathemas, we now heard a key turning in the clumsy and ponderous lock - Salezar had consented to pass fifty of us out, but no more.

Being near the door, as the guard without opened it, I was carried out in the current among the first. How grateful, how instantaneous was the relief ! Cold as was the northern blast, it was pure - we could now breathe. The guard escorted us to a cow-yard, and there herded us for the night. I crawled under the lee of a low mud wall, still reeking with the perspiration which had issued from every pore while undergoing the tortures of heat and suffocation - the cold wind penetrated my blanket and chilled me through, yet I was content. So piercing was the blast, that even our guard left their posts, and sought the friendly shelter of the neighbouring houses, yet we had neither the power nor inclination to attempt an escape. Huddled together under the walls, shivering with the cold and without a minute's sleep, we passed the hours until morning came ; yet even for this poor boon we felt thankful - felt rejoiced that we had escaped the horrid tortures of suffocation.

On the 21st of October, Salezar giving us no other rations before starting than an ear of dry, hard corn to each man, we reached the large Indian village of San Dias. The pueblos, or town Indians of New Mexico, are by far the better part of the population - are frugal, industrious, and honest - cultivate the land, and are very kind-hearted and hospitable to all strangers. Their religion is Roman Catholic, mixed up with many of their own superstitious rites and ceremonies, and the same may be said of nearly all the inhabitants of New Mexico. The Indians certainly retain, to the present day, many of their original rituals, feasts, and ceremonies, having ingrafted such of the Romish rites only as were calculated to strike the eye by their imposing pageantry. Stories of their strange ceremonies I myself heard, while at Sandia and other towns upon our march, but one that was told General Pike is more singular than all. If this tale be true, it would seem that once a year there is a great feast, prepared for three successive days, which time is spent in eating, drinking, and dancing. Near this scene of amusement is a dismal, gloomy cave, into which not a glimpse of light can penetrate, and where places of repose are provided for the revellers. To this cave, after dark, repair grown persons, of every age and sex, who pass the night in indulgences of the most gross and sensual description. Such is the account given of one of their ceremonies, cloaking, under a religious guise, an indiscriminate commerce, which bears strong resemblance to some of the mystic revels of the ancients.

At Sandia the population came out in a body to see us, and during a short halt the women gave to each of our men a watermelon, besides apples, cakes, and, in fact, everything they could spare. A gray- headed old man, who had been in St. Louis several times, and who spoke a little English, told us that the people were in our favour, and that Armijo was universally hated and despised. He would have said more, but our guard hurried us from the place. The dress of these people varies but little from that of the Mexicans ; that of the men being a coarse cotton shirt and loose and flowing drawers of the same material, over which they draw a pair of leather or cloth pantaloons, open from the knee downward, and flapping about whenever they are in motion. The women - and, for Indian women, many of them had strong pretensions to beauty - were, attired simply in a chemise and blue woollen petticoat.

The inhabitants cultivate the soil, live principally upon corn and pumpkins, and appear to be a simple, mild, and inoffensive people - not having the spirit to rise upon their cowardly oppressors. Their complexion is a light, clear brown, or copper ; their limbs are symmetrical, and denoting great activity and strength, while their eyes are dark and piercing, yet possessing a singular mildness and an expression of resignation.

We should have remained a night at Sandia ; but the policy of Salezar being to tire and worry us down to such a degree that there would be no possibility of our attempting an escape, we were barely allowed to pass some five minutes in the place. After a long and tedious march in the afternoon, many of our men nearly ready to drop from pain and exhaustion, we finally reached a little village called Alameda. Here we were penned in a large yard, without any protection from the cold. In the early part of the night I made out to catch a little sleep, but before midnight it was so cold that I rose, to find, if possible, a warmer location. I tried to crawl into a large oven standing in the yard, but found it already occupied by two or three of my companions. Surely, misery not only makes us acquainted with strange bedfellows, but also with strange beds.

In the morning, and after we had each received our day's ration - a hard ear of corn - the tiresome march was continued. Passing through the fertile bottoms of the Rio Grande, the land on either side of the road covered with cornstalks from which the ears had but recently been plucked, about ten o'clock the still distant church of Albuquerque appeared in view. The land in the vicinity of this city appears to be under a higher degree of cultivation than in any other part of New Mexico. The inhabitants do not depend upon rain in making their crops, but, on the contrary, the entire valley appears intersected by irrigating canals, from which the waters drawn from the broad but shallow Rio Grande can at any time be let upon the earth. Among the stubble, on either side of the road, we noticed immense flocks of blue and white herons and wild geese, so exceedingly tame that we could approach within a few yards of them. The Mexicans seldom kill them, and hence their tameness.

We were yet some two or three miles distant from Albuquerque, journeying along at a rapid pace, when a single horseman was seen speeding across the fields and making directly towards us at a sweeping gallop. Soon he was up with the rear of the party, when checking his horse into a prancing canter, he politely raised his hat and with great cordiality addressed the prisoners as gentlemen while riding up the line towards the head. His horse was a beautiful black, of glossy skin, clean and well-made limbs, spirited eye, expanded nostrils, and proud and gallant action - the rider, a gay, dash- ing, and handsome Mexican, dressed in a pair of green velvet trousers, slashed at the sides, and with a profusion of bell, buttons, while his close, neatly-fitting jacket, although now somewhat faded and worn, showed him a fashionable blade among his countrymen, and altogether a different personage from the ragged rabble by whom we were surrounded. There was a flashing, dare-devil expression in his eye, too, and a jaunty set to his hat - and then he sat so fearlessly in his saddle while his proud steed curvetted and caracoled along, as if impatient of the slow pace at which he was compelled to amble, that we could not but look with admiration at both horse and rider, so gallant was their bearing.

The horseman rode twice up and down the line of prisoners, nodding gracefully as he passed, and eyeing the crowd as if in search of a friend. By-and-by his eye fell upon one of our officers, Lieutenant Hornsby, who happened to be the best-dressed man in the party. His well-wadded and full-buttoned Texan dragoonjacket was new, or nearly new, his cap and military trousers had seen but little service, while his blanket was of that fiery and showy red which could not fail to attract in a country where gaudy and glaring colours are so much sought after and admired.

The Mexican cavalier at once checked his steed on seeing Hornsby, and immediately asked him if he was tired. This was a question he could not but answer in the affirmative. The horseman then asked H. to jump up behind him - his horse, he said, could easily carry double, and a short ride would rest the weary limbs of el prisionero. Instantly Hornsby was comfortably seated behind his new friend. The Mexican told him to place one arm around his waist, and then to hold fast :

Hornsby did so. The next moment the horseman suddenly wheeled his steed in an opposite direction from that we were pursuing, plunged his heavy Mexican spurs in the animal's sides, and dashed off at a speed which was truly astonishing considering the heavy weight his steed was obliged to carry. He did not pursue the road over which we had just travelled, but leaving it a little to the right, struck off diagonally across fields and pastures. Here was an abduction, and we could not help congratulating our friend upon his good fortune. Whenever the party came to an irrigating ditch the horse would stop, brace himself, settle firmly upon his haunches, and then at a bound carry both his riders safely across. In the mean time we continued our journey towards Albuquerque, yet we could not but turn our eyes, ever and anon, to gaze at our rapidly-receding comrade. We watched him until naught could be seen but his red blanket rising and falling gently in the distance from the motion of the horse, and when we finally turned from gazing it was with the firm belief that we were not soon to look upon him again.

About noon we entered Albuquerque, somewhat famed for the beauty of its women, besides being the largest place in the province of New Mexico, and the residence of Armijo a part of the year.* His family

* General Pike, in his Narrative, speaks of having met with numbers of beautiful women at this place during a couple of days he spent there, in the winter of 1807, while on his journey from Santa Fe to Chihuahua, a prisoner. The following I quote from his journal : " We were received, at Albuquerque, by Father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering manner, and led into his hall. From thence, after taking some refreshment, into an inner apartment, where he ordered his adopted children, of the female sex, to appear, when they came in by turns, Indians of various nations, Spanish, French, and finally, two young girls, whom, from their complexion, I conceived to be English : on perceiving I noticed them, he ordered the rest to retire, many of whom were beautiful, and directed those to sit down on the sofa beside me ; thus situated, he told me they had been taken to the east by the Te- were living here when we passed through, and treated Van Ness, who was allowed many liberties by Salezar, with much respect and consideration - loading him with excellent bread and other luxuries on his departure. As we were marched directly through the principal streets the inhabitants were gathered on either side to gaze at the estrangeros, as we were called. The women, with all kindness of heart, gave our men corn, pumpkins, bread, and everything they could spare from their scanty store as we passed, and had Salezar allowed us to remain but an hour, all our immediate wants would have been supplied ; but the hard-hearted wretch appeared to delight in acts of cruelty, and drove us through with scarcely a halt of ten minutes.

It was at Albuquerque that I saw a perfect specimen of female loveliness. The girl was poor, being dressed only in a chemise and coarse woollen petticoat ; yet there was an air of grace, a charm about her, that neither birth nor fortune can bestow. She was standing upon a mud-wall, the taper fingers of her right hand supporting a large pumpkin upon her head, while her left was gracefully resting upon her hip. Her dark, full, and lustrous eyes, overarched with brows of pencilled regularity, and fringed with lashes of long and taus, passed from one nation to another until he purchased them, at that time infants, but they could recollect neither their names nor language ; but concluding they were my countrywomen, he ordered them to embrace me as a mark of friendship, to which they appeared nothing loath. We then sat down to dinner, which consisted of various dishes, excellent wines, and to crown all, we were waited on by half a dozen of those beautiful girls, who, like Hebe at the feast of the gods, converted our wine into nectar, and with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our cups." Now, I neither saw as much nor enjoyed myself as well while a prisoner at Albuquerque, as did General Pike when he passed through there under circumstances somewhat similar ; still, I saw enough to convince me that the race of pretty girls has not altogether degenerated, a fact of which my reader will be acquainted by reading the two following pages.

silken texture, beamed upon us full of tenderness and pity, while an unbidden tear of sorrow at our misfortunes was coursing down a cheek of the purest and richest olive. Her beautifully-curved lips, half opened as if in pity and astonishment at a scene so uncommon, disclosed teeth of pearly, dazzling whiteness. Innocence and the best feelings of our nature were playing in every lineament of that lovely face, and ever and anon, as some one of us more unfortunate than the rest would limp halting by, again her tears would gush from their fountains and illumine a countenance of purity. If some of them fell that day from the poor village girl, drawn from their firmament to lighten the sorrows of those upon whom misfortune had laid her heavy hand. She could not be more than fifteen ; yet her loose and flowing dress, but half concealing a bust of surpassing beauty and loveliness, plainly disclosed that she was just entering womanhood. Her figure was faultless, and even the chisel of Praxiteles himself never modelled ankles of such pure and classic elegance.

As the long and straggling line of prisoners passed the spot upon which this lovely form was standing, sore and worn down by long marches, and want of food and sleep, her rare beauty drew the eyes of all towards her, and exclamations of wonder were upon every lip. She understood not our language, and in the artless simplicity of her nature knew not that her singular loveliness, combined with the display of charms her unstudied yet graceful attitude and scanty dress had given, was the theme of almost universal admiration.

The Two Loveliest

the pumpkin with infinite delicacy and grace ; and as she did it, the exclamation pobrecito was heard gently falling from her lips in tones of softest pity. The fairest flowers are oftenest found in obscurity, and I trust my readers will not doubt my sincerity when I assert that the prettiest girl I ever saw was selling woollen stockings at twenty-five cents a pair at Holmes's Hole, Massachusetts - her twin-sister in beauty was standing in her bare feet upon a mud- wall at Albuquerque, New Mexico, with a pumpkin on her head !

I lingered to take a last look at the beautiful girl, and when I turned from the spot I could not but regret that the lot of one so kind-hearted and so fair had been cast in such a place. There are faces we see in our journey through life surpassingly beautiful, faces that leave a deep and lasting impression on the beholders, and hers was one of them. Among the crowds of beauty her image will stand out in bold relief, and not one of those who saw her on the day we passed through Albuquerque will ever forget her.

Los Placeres. - Another dark Leaf in Salezar's Character. - Wom^n and Watermelons. - Reappearance of Lieutenant Hornsby. - His singular Story of Adventure. - The dashing Horseman and his gentle and generous Wife. - Arrival at Valencia. - Farther Sufferings of the Prisoners. - Kindness of an old Woman. - Death of Ernest. - An American Traveller. - Cruel Murder of McAllister. - Its Effect upon the Prisoners. - Casa Colorada. - A comfortable Camp. - Appearance of the Valley of the Rio Grande. - Uses of the Cotton-wood. - Salezar and the Alcaldes. - The Mexican Button Market. - Straits to which the Prisoners were driven. - A Story of Stump. - Magoffin's Wagons passed. - American Drivers. - Not allowed to hold Converse with them. - Arrival at Joya. - A Fandango. - Salezar Drunk. - Conduct of the American Drivers on the Occasion. - Parrida. - Crossing the Rio Grande. - Arrival at Socorro. - A short Rest allowed. - Character of the Inhabitants. - A Party of Apaches. - Anecdote of the Priest of Socorro. - Head Chief of the Apaches. - His dignified Bearing. - Obsequiousness of Salezar. - Bosque de los Apaches. - Recrossing the Rio Grande. - The Camp of Fray Cristobal. - A Snow-storm at Night. - Appearance of the Prisoners by Daylight. - Colds and Coughs.

AFTER leaving Albuquerque, we continued our march through a succession of cultivated fields and pastures until we reached a small rancho called Los Placeres, and here we were encamped for the night. Nothing was given us to eat, and on complaining to Salezar that we were very hungry, he pointed to the spot where his mules and horses were feeding, and said that the grazing was excellent ! Because many of the prisoners swallowed the corn given them by the women raw, the fellow called them wolves and hogs.

At this place we were visited by a family of Mexican women of no inconsiderable wealth, who lived at a rancho some little distance from our road. It consisted of a mother and her two daughters, and I will venture the assertion that either of the latter weighed more than two hundred pounds, and will also declare positively that neither of them was very prepossessing in appearance. They had brought two large watermelons as a present, and while one of the girls bestowed a melon upon one of my companions, her sister made choice of me as the recipient of the other. I gave the girl the customary mil gracias, or thousand thanks, as I received the melon ; had the pretty one of Albuquerque given me that pumpkin I should have been far better satisfied.

Not a little astonished were we, when, towards evening, our absent comrade, Hornsby, with a chopfallen countenance and a half- worn jacket a world too small for him. was seen approaching, his Mexican friend, the dashing horseman, setting him down near our quarters and then galloping off in the direction of his home. A singular story did the lieutenant tell of his adventure, the substance of which was as follows :

On first mounting behind the Mexican, he supposed that the fellow simply intended carrying him a mile or two on the route - perhaps to Albuquerque, which was then in sight ; but to his astonishment the man wheeled his horse suddenly round, and struck off across the fields at a tremendous pace. Hornsby had employment enough in hanging on to his new friend, to avoid being thrown off as the gallant horse leaped the irrigating canals, so that, to use his own words, he had no time to speculate upon the singularity of his adventure, or upon the intentions of the wild horseman who was giving him such a race. A hard ride of three or four miles brought them to a house of neater construction and finish than were possessed by the generality of Mexican dwellings. It was a solitary house, and appeared to be about half a mile from the road he had

-walked over but a short time previous. Once at the door, the Mexican threw himself lightly from his animal, and, after assisting Hornsby to dismount, politely asked him to enter his dwelling. There was an air of neatness and comfort within, and the furniture betokened a style of living which formed a singular contrast with the destitution apparent in even the better class of houses upon the road.

His strange host led the way into a room in which the furniture and appointments were absolutely luxurious. Over the fireplace was a large mirror ; two or three scriptural paintings, one of them a well-executed portrait of the Virgin, adorned the walls ; while upon a sideboard was neatly arranged a set of decanters and tumblers, all of cut glass, and of admirable workmanship. Here the Mexican left him for a moment, but soon returned with a massive silver pitcher filled with cool water.

Unfortunately, Hornsby could speak but little Spanish, and was, consequently, unable to carry on a regular conversation with his host ; but when the latter pointed to a tumbler, and then to a decanter of brandy, our lieutenant understood him perfectly, and manifested his knowledge of signs by helping himself to a bountiful allowance. At this juncture the wife of the gay cavalier, a mild-eyed, pretty woman, entered the apartment, and, exchanging a few words with her husband, led the way to a table in another room, which was fairly groaning under the weight of a hot and sumptuous breakfast Hornsby, now more astonished than ever, and wondering how this adventure was to terminate, took a seat at the table in silence, and ate a heartier meal than he had done for months. Both the husband and wife were assiduous in their attentions, and

Exchange A Robbery. 3S9

Breakfast over, the wife brought in a package of cigarritos, or shuck cigars, and after the husband had lit one of them by means of the flint and steel which every Mexican carries in his pocket, and had politely asked his guest to join him in a smoke, he opened the business which had induced him to invite Hornsby to his dwelling. By words, and more particularly by signs, he informed his guest that he had taken a great fancy to his military jacket, and that he must exchange with him. Hornsby responded, with an equal amount of his own vernacular and a corresponding quantity of signs, to the effect that the jacket of his host was much too siriall for him, and that he was not disposed to trade. The gentle and pretty wife, who had been all the while watching either party, now interfered, her actions plainly denoting that she was anxiously entreating her husband not to entertain their guest thus rudely and uncharitably. Paying no heed to her entreaties, the husband again intimated to Hornsby that he must doff his jacket - he had no money to offer him in exchange, but then he had given him a ride, a drink, and a breakfast, and, as a return for these civilities, only wished to exchange jackets. He stripped off his own, notwithstanding his wife's opposition, and now commenced assisting his guest in taking off the much-desired garment. It was a forced transfer, contrary to the laws of Mexico ; but our comrade was driven into the transaction.

The Mexican next brought* a coarse, thick, and heavy blanket, which he wished to exchange for the scarlet affair belonging to Hornsby. As there was no such thing as avoiding a trade when his host had determined that it must be, our comrade, with a sorry grace, sub- K K2 mitted to his demands : yet this time he really got the best of the bargain, for the blanket he received was much warmer and of infinitely more service than the one forced from him. The Mexican now pointed to his horse, which was still tied in front of the dwelling, and uttered the well-known bamanos.* It was now Hornsby's turn to take a liberty. Heretofore his host had made himself exceedingly free on a very limited acquaintance, as Hornsby dryly expressed it : the latter now bethought him that he would pay off a small portion of the debt in kind. He therefore walked deliberately to the sideboard, poured himself out a stiff glass of brandy, and bowing very respectfully to his host, tossed it off. He then expressed his readiness to depart, and walking out of the house, was soon seated behind his singular host. The wife now made her appearance with the new blanket, in which she had tied a large quantity of dried beef. Watching an opportunity while the eyes of her husband were turned away, she stealthily slipped a quarter of a dollar into the hands of Hornsby - probably her little all. A tear stood in her eye as she murmured " Adios Senor," for the kind-hearted creature felt deeply mortified at the inhospitable manner in which her husband had treated a guest. Another moment, and Hornsby was on his way to rejoin his comrades, the Mexican apparently anxious to escape the reproachful looks of his gentle wife ; and ere it was yet dark he had discharged his burden within a few yards of our camping-ground. Such was the story told of the gay 'cavalier, who, by his dashing and fearless riding, had excited our warmest admiration in the morning. Was ever such an ingenious trick to effect an exchange of clothing ? Salezar was probably privy to the whole transaction, else he would have never permitted his brother Mexican to carry off one of the prisoners in such a manner. The self-esteem of the highwayman would not allow him openly to rob our comrade - he thought that the cloak of hospitality which he threw over his act more than covered its rascality. But I must return to my narrative of more important events.

Late on the evening of the 24th of October, and after a march of uncommon length, we reached the little town of Valencia. Here a pint of flour was distributed to each of the prisoners ; but many of the men were so tired, faint, and sore, from the long and continued marches, and from cold and want of sleep at night, that they had neither the will nor strength to cook even this scanty ration. On the contrary, they sank immediately upon the cold ground, and vainly endeavoured to smother their pains and sorrows in sleep. Fitzgerald and myself had better quarters, or rather a better bed, that night, than our fellows. We were about lying down, immediately in front of a small house, when an old woman threw us out a couple of sheepskins with the wool still on. With these between us and the cold ground we really passed a comfortable night.

Not so one of our unfortunate companions. On rising in the morning, it was found that a man named Ernest had died during the night - died from hunger, cold, and fatigue, and without even the knowledge of the man sleeping by his side ! The long march of the previous day had so weakened the poor Texan that on reaching camp he had sunk to the ground exhausted. He soon fell asleep, and with him it proved to be the sleep which knows no waking ! Not a murmur, not a groan did he utter ; but when his companion shook him in the morning, with the intention of arousing him to the fatigues and sufferings of another day, the lamp of his existence had burned out, or rather had been rudely smothered - he was stiff and cold ! Salezar immediately ordered one of his men to cut off and preserve the dead man's ears, as a token that he had not escaped, and by the orders of the same brute the body was thrown into a neighbouring ditch. An American with two or three wagons, who was on his way from the United States to either Monterey or Saltillo with machinery, was within two hundred yards of us all the while, and saw the whole transaction. Salezar would not allow us to hold any conversation or communicate with this man ; but we afterward learned that he had been an overseer on some plantation near New-Orleans, and that the machinery he had with him was a sugarmill on a large scale, which he had been employed to set in operation in Mexico. I heard the man's name, but have forgotten it.

Scarcely had the events occurred, of which I have given a brief recital, ere we were ordered to form in line and be counted before resuming the march : even before we could finish the cooking of our scanty supply of meal into thin mush we were compelled to move. Just as we were starting, a man named John McAllister, a native of Tennessee and of excellent family, complained that one of his ankles was badly sprained, and that it was utterly impossible for him to walk. The unfortunate man was naturally lame in the other ankle, and could never walk but with difficulty and with a limp. On starting, he was now allowed to enter a rude Mexican cart, which had been procured by the Alcalde of Valencia for the purpose of transporting some of the

Murder Of Mcallister

«ick and lame prisoners ; but before it had proceeded a mile upon the road it either broke down or was found to be too heavily loaded. At all events, McAllister was ordered by Salezar to hobble along as best he might, and to overtake the main body of prisoners, now some quarter of a mile in advance. The wretch had frequently told those who, from inability or weakness, had fallen behind, that he would shoot them rather than have the march delayed ; not that there was any necessity for the hot haste with which we were driven, but to gratify his brutal disposition did he make these threats. Although he had struck, and in several cases severely beaten, many of the sick and lame prisoners, we could not believe that he was so utterly destitute of feeling, so brutal, as to murder a man in cold blood whose only fault was that he was crippled and unable to walk. He could easily have procured transportation for all if he had wished, and that he would do so rather than shoot down any of the more unfortunate we felt confident : how much we mistook the man !

On being driven from the cart, McAllister declared his inability to proceed on foot. Salezar drew his sword and peremptorily ordered him to hurry on, and this when he had half a dozen led mules, upon either of which he could have placed the unfortunate man. Again McAllister, pointing to his swollen and inflamed ankle, declared himself unable to walk. Some half a dozen of his comrades were standing around him, with feelings painfully wrought up, waiting the denouement of an affair which, from the angry appearance of Salezar, they now feared would be tragical. Once more the bloodthirsty savage, pointing to the main body of prisoners, ordered the cripple to hurry forward and overtake them - he could not ! " Forward !" said Sale- zar, now wrought up to a pitch of phrensy. " Forward, or I'll shoot you on the spot !" " Then shoot !" replied McAllister, throwing off his blanket and exposing his manly breast, " and the quicker the better !" Salezar took him at his word, and a single ball sent as brave a man as ever trod the earth to eternity ! His ears were then cut off, his shirt and pantaloons stripped from him, and his body thrown by the roadside as food for wolves !

A thrill of horror ran through the crowd of prisoners as the news spread that one of our men had been deliberately shot down in cold blood, and deep but whispered threats of vengeance for this most unnatural murder were heard upon every lip. In our present condition we could do nothing. It would have been an easy matter for us to rise and overpower the guard ; but their arms were worthless, and it would have been impossible, unacquainted as we were with the country, to cut our way through to Texas without provisions. And then, as I once before remarked, it was part of Salezar's policy to drive us along and tire us down by marches of almost incredible length, and so to weaken us by scanty food, that escape would be next to impossible. Weak as we were, however, had our guard been well armed with rifles or muskets, and with plenty of ammunition, we never should have been marched to the Paso del Norte ; but those who had charge of us were strong in their very weakness. Thus wretchedly we were compelled to journey forward in dreary hope of falling into more humane hands on reaching the State of Chihuahua.

Late in the afternoon of the day on which McAllister was murdered we reached the Casa Colorada, or Red House, a large hacienda and trading establishment be- longing, I believe, to one of the Chavez family. Passing the little collection of houses, we entered a grove of cotton-woods near the Rio Grande, and there encamped for the night. From the time when we first struck the valley of this stream, after leaving the mountains in the neighbourhood of Santa Fe, to that when we reached the Paso del Norte, but little timber was seen, and that was composed exclusively of cotton-woods. The inhabitants are very saving of this timber, although it is exceedingly soft and brittle ; yet, as they can obtain no other for the construction of their rude carts, ploughs, and other implements, its uses to them are invaluable. Sometimes we would journey for days, hardly seeing a tree to each mile we travelled. The few fences, like the houses, are constructed of adobes, t* or sun-dried bricks, square instead of oblong, and perhaps four times the size of ordinary bricks. Of this material nearly all the dwellings of the lower classes in Mexico are constructed. The valley of the Rio Grande, above El Paso, is of unequal width, varying from a mile and a half to four or five miles, and in some places perhaps more. On either side of the valley rises a chain of hills - some of them may deserve the name of mountains - which for the most part appeared sterile and - destitute of vegetation. The valley itself is generally fertile, well adapted to the growth of corn, wheat, beans, and pumpkins ; not a potato, either sweet or Irish, did we see, although the latter, in particular, would undoubtedly attain great perfection. Under Anglo-Saxon cultivation, this region might support five times the population it now contains ; still, the want of timber and the immense distance to a market, will always present obstacles to emigration in that direction.

ternoon, for the prisoners to pick up every little chip and twig by the roadside, wherewith to cook their scanty rations of dry corn or meal ; for the first time, since we had entered the valley, we now found a sufficiency of wood, but a majority of us had nothing to cook. On leaving San Miguel, Armijo had given Salezar eighteen head of cattle, some of the oxen taken from the Texans, and had ordered him to kill them for our use. I will even give the governor credit by believing that he placed a quantity of the goods taken from the Texans in the hands of Salezar, for the purpose of trading them for breadstuff on the road, to be appropriated to our use ; yet, up to this time, the scoundrel had neither killed one of the oxen nor disposed of a single article of merchandise for anything but money, all of which he placed in his own pockets. Our sufferings were plainly a gratification to him, and to sustain life he compelled us to depend alone upon the charities of the women, or upon the small supply of corn and meal he wrung, by threats and violence, from the different alcaldes of the villages through which we passed. In the mean time, to still the inordinate cravings of hunger and to procure an occasional ride upon the animals of our guard, the prisoners had disposed of every little article of clothing they could possibly spare, frequently exchanging a pair of their own woollen pantaloons for the ragged breeches of the Mexicans, to purchase a ride of a few miles. The buttons, too, from their clothing, they had bartered either for meal or rides ; and as by this time they were nearly all expended, the sufferings of the majority may be said to have fairly commenced.*

* Buttons commanded a high price, for even an ordinary iron or horn article, such as might be easily purchased for six cents per dozen at any shop

I cannot leave our encampment among the cotton woods near the Casa Colorada without relating an amu sing story told that evening by " Old Paint" Caldwell. The time appeared ill-assorted with merriment and laughter, yet laugh we did, and heartily too, at the recital of the old captain's anecdote.

Among the passengers in the cart with poor McAllister were the narrator and a man who went by the soubriquet of " Stump ;" there may have been others, but if there were I have now forgotten their names. In the morning, before starting, Stump had declared that he could not walk a mile - to save his life, even - and so positive was he upon this point, that a place was provided for him in the cart. When this vehicle met with the accident, of course Stump was thrown upon his feet with the rest. While the few words were passing between McAllister and Salezar, and previous to the inhuman murder of the former, Stump was hobbling about, apparently unable to walk at all : his feet were sore, his knees were stiff, and not a bone was there in his body that did not pain him at every movement - he was curled up, the picture of despair ; but no sooner did he see his comrade fall, and feel the certainty that he, too, would meet with a similar fate unless he put his powers of locomotion in immediate action, than, to use the old captain's own words, Stump straightened up and started at a pace that would have staggered Captain Barclay, Ellworth, or the greatest in the United States, in New Mexico would procure for one of our prisoners a ride of several miles, or bread enough to last him a day. Needles, too, were in great demand ; one of our men, a tailor, who had been fortunate enough to save two or three papers, was enabled to procure an ample supply of food, and also to have a mule when his necessities required. This information may be useful to some itinerant pedler of small " notions," although cannot conscientiously advise him to visit New Mexico for a market.

pedestrian mentioned in the annals of " tall walking." Stump went by, first one, then another of his companions, and never abated his stride until he was in the lead of the whole party of prisoners : a position he pertinaciously kept through the remainder of the day, and, in fact, during the march. In the morning he could not walk a mile ; he afterward did walk something like eighteen hundred, and without flagging. This story of the old captain's through, we cast our weary limbs upon the earth, and as the grove of trees in which we were encamped materially deadened the force of the wind, we were enabled to pass a more comfortable night than any since we left San Miguel.

On the following day we passed the long train of wagons belonging to Mr. Magoffin, of Chihuahua - the same that had arrived at San Miguel from St. Louis while we were there. The drivers were all Americans - brown, healthy-looking men ; and although strict orders were given by Salezar that no communication should be held, we still exchanged a few words with them as we passed. It brought back old times and old recollections to see these men, fresh from my own country, and anxiously did I wish that I might obtain an hour's conversation with them, an opportunity to learn the news from the United States, if nothing more ; I could only wish, as Salezar took especial care that my desires should not be gratified.

A little before sundown we reached the village of Joya, and here our men were allowed a shelter for the night in two or three old and abandoned rooms. A fandango was got up during the evening in the town, at which Howard, Van Ness, and two or three of our officers were allowed to be present. Here they met several of the Americans we had passed during the day, their encampment being in the skirts of the village close by. Salezar became much intoxicated during the evening, and with the fumes of whiskey in his head grew insolent and overbearing towards the drivers. Fortunately, they came well provided with bowieknives, thinking they might possibly be insulted; and no sooner had Salezar commenced his insolence than he. was driven - I believe kicked - from the room, the cowardly wretch not daring even to open his mouth after their weapons were drawn.

By making an early start on the following morning, we were enabled to reach Parrida, a small town immediately on the banks of the Rio Grande, by the middle of the afternoon. Here, in the plaza, we stopped for the night ; and here, after an allowance of a pint of meal had been measured out to each man by the alcalde and Salezar, we were permitted to make and eat our poor mush in peace and quietness. At Parrida I was also fortunate in purchasing a pair of heavy and substantial shoes, after walking several days in a pair of soleless moccasins, which let in the gravel at every step upon the numerous blisters that covered my feet. I had not a little difficulty in making change with the zapatero of whom I purchased, for the piece of gold I tendered him in payment I was anxious to keep from the eyes of Salezar. The brute knew that I had a small sum of money about me - some few dollars. Had he suspected the large amount in gold and jewelry I had concealed in those ragged and dirty vestments of mine, he would soon have found a pretext for sending me to keep company with the murdered McAllister.