Santa Fe, Texas - Narrative of the Texan Santa Fé Expedition, Comprising a Description O (part 1 of 9)

Harpkh & Brothers

A WORD with you, kind reader, before you commence the perusal of the following narrative. The object of the author has been to tell his story in a plain, unvarnished way - in the homely, every-day language which is at once understood by all. He will not, at this time, apologize for any errors of omission or any broken links in the principal chain of connexion which may be noticed ; he trusts that all such faults will explain themselves in the progress of the narrative, as the difficulties he has had to encounter become apparent.

For the description of the Spanish Missions in the neighbourhood of San Antonio de Bexar, which will be found in the early part of the third chapter, the author is principally indebted to Mr. Falconer, by whom full notes were taken of these old religious establishments. The author also acknowledges his indebtedness to Mr. F. for the names of the several places through which the Santa Fe prisoners passed on their march from San Miguel to the city of Mexico, together with the dates. For dates and events previous to the capture of the expedition he has been obliged to rely upon his own memory, and upon that of such of his companions as he has been able to see and converse with since his return to the United States.

The main facts in the history of Don Manuel Armijo have been obtained from a gentleman who has known that petty tyrant and his career for nearly fifteen years. The author has only added such incidents as came under his personal observation.

In making up the map of the country between the Cross Timbers and the settlements of New Mexico, much information has been obtained from Mr. Gregg, an intelligent merchant who has been for many years engaged in the Santa Fe trade, and also from Albert Pike, Esq., of Arkansas. Both these gentlemen have travelled over the immense prairies, stretching from the western limits of Louisiana and Arkansas to the Rocky Mountains, and both agree with the author in his remarks in relation to Red River. Of course, in the construction of this map, much of what the Yankees term " guess work1' has been resorted to ; but it will be found, in the main, correct.

A few of the incidents in the first volume of this work, which appeared, in a series of rough sketches, in the New- Orleans Picayune of 1842, have since been stolen from that journal and incorporated with the " Narrative of Monsieur Violet," written by Captain Marryat and published in London during the fall of 1843. The author has deemed this exposition necessary, lest some of his readers, unacquainted with the circumstances and who may peruse both books, should suspect him of having poached upon the wondrous tale of Violet. The larceny lies at the door of either the Captain or the Monsieur - a matter they must settle between themselves.

Violet's " Narrative" also contains an attack, directly impeaching the veracity of the author in the account he has given of the murder of Golpin. It may not be deemed a work of supererogation for him simply to state, that this wanton attack is made up of deliberate falsehood. The time, place, and manner of the death of the unfortunate Texan, were precisely as the author has stated them : out of more than one hundred and eighty witnesses of the murder, many are still living to verify his account in every particular.

acter of the Mexicans, the author has simply related what came under his own observation ; he has censured where he considered that reproof should fall, has praised where he deemed commendation due. Should his strictures not meet the approval of the leading men of that country, the blame cannot attach to him ; for if the Mexican government, in its wisdom, saw fit to deny a friendly traveller the privilege of viewing aught save the darker shades of life while within the limits of that republic, it certainly cannot upbraid him for painting them in all their deformity. In whatever light a government or an individual may choose to " sit for a portrait," it is certainly the duty of every honest artist to give it with scrupulous fidelity.

In commenting upon the weakness and inefficiency of his own government, as regards its external or foreign policy, the author has approached the subject with much reluctance. American born and American at heart, he has always felt a just pride in the achievements of his countrymen, in their firm and untiring opposition to all usurpation and tyranny, and to every infringement upon their liberties. The people of the United States - the mass from whom all power emanates - although ever ready to sustain their rulers in the protection of the humblest of their countrymen while abroad, are too frequently kept in ignorance of the wrongs they suffer through the inattention of those who are bound to redress every encroachment upon their rights. Were it not that the exposure of errors and abuses is the only means of ensuring their correction, the author would shrink from lifting the curtain which conceals almost the only weak point in the administration of his government. For proof of the correctness of his strictures he has only to refer to every American who has visited Mexico.

Iv Preface

notice. The scene in the buffalo range - the " scamper" after those huge animals - is a truthful picture from the quick and fertile imagination of Chapman. Scenes of a similar nature were of almost daily occurrence while the Santa Fe pioneers were in the buffalo region, and the artist seems to have caught the spirit of the exciting chase. The " Incident upon the Prairies" is from a design by Casilear, and gives a faithful delineation of a wild and singular race. Both these engravings are from the burin of Messrs. Jordan and Halpin, and need no commendation. The view of " Puente Nacional" is taken from Ward's work upon Mexico, the diligencia and the litera only added. The " City of Guanajuato" is from the same work, and gives a faiihful view of the place : the author cannot say as much for the appearance of the Texan prisoners. They did not ride thus far into the city, and to attempt to picture them with fidelity would be impossible. The engraving of the Mexican girls is adopted from Nebel, and is given to show the costume and one of the customs of the females of that country.

Another word or two, and the author will throw himself upon the kindness of his reader. His attempt has been to interest and amuse ; should it be thought that he has thrown too much levity amid scenes of suffering and of gloom, his excuse must be that he belongs rather to the school of laughing than crying philosophers - to a class who would rather see a smile upon the face of melancholy than a tear in the eye of mirth.

Chapter

Objects of the first Texan Santa Fe Expedition. - Determination to accompany it. - The Western Limits of Texas. - Her Claim to the Rio Grande. - Colonel Butler's contemplated Expedition to Santa Fe. - Causes of its Failure. - Preparations for joining the Texans. - Departure from New-Orleans. - Steam-ship New-York. - Captain Wright's Specific against Thirst. - Arrival at Galveston. - Frank Combs. - City of Houston. - Stories of old Hunters and Campaigners. - Houston Horse Jockeys. - Choice of an Animal. - Leave Houston for Austin. - Ladies on Horseback. - Race with a Thunder-shower. - Incidents upon the Road. - Arrival at Austin. - Mr. Falconer. - English Travellers. - Party to San Antonio made up. - Jim the Butcher sent to the Stable. - Mexican Mountain Pony. - His Mustaches, and Powers of Endurance Page 13

Chapter Ii

Leave Austin for San Antonio. - Prospects of a Shower. - Singular Conduct of Mat Small. - A regular Soaking. - Crossing the Colorado. - No Bottom for short-legged Animals. - Venison for Supper. - More of Mat Small. - Damp Lodgings. - Serenade of Wolves. - Meeting with old Friends. - The St. Mark's. - Head Springs. - Disturbance at Night. - Arrival of Friends from Austin. - Journey towards San Antonio renewed. - Colonel Cooke in search of a Short Cut. - Encounter with a Texan War Party. - Hostile Indians about. - A Texan killed. - Mr. Falconer's Portrait taken while sitting upon a Mule. - Amusing Adventure. - More scared than hurt. - The Guadalupe. - The Salado. - Night Entry into San Antonio. - Yelping Curs. - Fun at a Fandango. - A Mexican Dance. - Monte. - Getting the Hang of the Game. - Return to Lodgings. - Comparative Merits of Floors. - Difference between Plank, Stone, and Earth. - Rough Life in Perspective. - Nothing after getting used to it 31

Chapter Iii

Description of San Antonio. - Fondness of the Women for Bathing. - Climate. - Irrigating Canals. - Fruits. - The old Spanish Missions. - Objects for which they were constructed. - The Alamo. - Concepcion. - San Juan. - San Jose. - La Espada. - Bowie and Crockett. - Church of San Antonio. - Anecdote of General Cos. - Mexican Merchants from the Rio Grande. - Return to Austin. - Incidents upon the Road. - A Texan Leather Stocking. - An Adventure. - Out-tricking a Party of Indians. - Another Night at the St. Mark's. - Fruitless Chase after Camanches. - Hog-wallow Prairie. - Arrival at Camp. - More of the Camanches. - Plain Supper and good Appetite. - Insight into Astronomy. - Once more at Austin. - A Fall in the Dark. - Speculations while falling. - Broken Bones, - Dancing Days over, or the " Jig up." - Consolation under Misfortune . . . Page 35

Chapter Iv

Visit from General Lamar. - Preparations for a Start. - Pleasant Anticipations. - Northers. - Bright Side of the Picture. - Speculations as to the Reception of the Expedition at Santa Fe. - No Thoughts of Fighting the New Mexicans. - Senor Navarro. - A Jersey Wagon provided. - Departure from Austin. - Adieu to Civilization. - A modern Athens. - Its sudden Rise, and more sudden Fall. - President Lamar in Camp. - Arrival at the Brushy. - General Joy among the Pioneers. - Reviewed by the President. - Order of March. - Tricks of young Oxen. - Upsets. - Arrival at the San Gabriel. - Camp Stories. - Opossum Creek. - Scene of a Fight with the Camanches. - Anecdote of two Brothers. - A night Storm. - Buffalo in Sight. - Petrifactions. - Stories of Buffalo. - A Youngster caught. - Methods of Hunting the Buffalo. - A regular Chase. - Buffalo on every Side. - Fitzgerald, and his Zeal. - Falconer among the Buffalo. - Returns of Killed and Wounded. - Arrival at Little River. - Buffalo Calves in Camp. - Manner of taking them 63

Sending back for more Cattle. - Rations of Beef for each Man. - Idle Hours in Camp. - Annoying Insects. - Night Alarms. - Death of Lockridge. - A Dutchman shot at. - Improvident Waste of Provisions. - Game in our Vicinity. - Sickness of General McLeod - Once more on the Road. - Bird's Battle-ground. - A Visit from Mustangs. - The " White Steed of the Prairies." - Stories in relation to this Horse. - Cow Creek. - Plenty of Buffalo. - Repairing Wagons. - Profanity of the Teamsters. - Out of Water. - Fourth of July on the Prairies. - Celebration among the Clouds. - A troublesome Visiter. - Rattlesnakes and Tarantulas. - Death of Flint. - Crossing the Bosque - The Antelope, or Mountain Goat. - Simplicity of this Animal. - Another Branch of the Bosque. - Difficulty of crossing. - More Swearing. - A Stampede ! - Singular Effect of Fright upon Horses and Oxen. - Falconer's Horse at his Eccentricities. - A Private Stampede. - Laughable Antics. - Falconer's Philosophy 84

Chapter Vi

The Valley of Cedral Creek. - Singular Natural Road. - Another Delay. - Arrival of General McLeod with additional Cattle. - The March resumed. - Bad Travelling. - Delicious Spring of Water. - Valley of the Brazos. - Fondness of our Animals for its Waters. - Crossing the Brazos. - Prairie on Fire. - Out of Water again. - Sufferings of Man and Beast. - A cool Spring discovered. - Natural Bathing-tub. - Fresh Indian " Sign." - A recently-deserted Village. - Trick of a Wag. - The Camanche Peak. - " Seeing the Elephant." - The " Cross Timbers." - Description of this singular Forest. - Arrival at Noland's River. - Destruction of our Tents. - The crossing of Noland's River. - Deserted Indian Village. - Latitude and Longitude taken. - In the Midst of our Troubles - Our last Day in the " Cross Timbers." - A gloomy Night. - Once more upon the open Prairie. - A hearty Meal. - Speculations as to the Route we had taken, - The Banks of Red River supposed to be visible Page 100

Chapter Vii

Trail of the Chihuahua Traders. - Causes of the Failure of that Enterprise. - A fresh Indian " Burn." - Dr. Whittaker lost. - Indian Dogs. - Their forlorn Appearance. - Exciting Scene. - An Indian Buffalo Chase. - Well rid of annoying Visitors. - Buffalo Meat for Dinner. - Pack of miserable Curs. - A recently-deserted Indian Camp. - Dr. Whittaker again among us. - A white Flag sent out. - Beautiful Camping-ground. - An Eclipse. - Once more on Horseback, - Singular Chnse. - Both Parties mistaken. - A Soaking. - Carlos, a Mexican, joins the Spy Company. - Plausibility of his Stories. - The supposed Red River. - Parley with a Party of Wacoes. - Their Insolence. - Arrival at a Waco Village. - Its desertion by the Inhabitants. - Beautiful Location of the Town. - Its Houses and Corn-fields. - An Indian Musical Instrument. - Speculations upon Love. - High State of Civilization of the Wacoes. - Causes of the Hostility of the Wacoes to the Texans. - Departure from the Village. - Brackish Water. - Fear of the Prairie Indians of Artillery. - Origin of this Fear .... 120

Chapter Viii

Join the Spy Company. - Farther Speculations as regards Red River. - Advantages of travelling with the Spies. - Beautiful Streams and cool Arbours. - Visit from Mustangs. - A dashing wild Horse. - Different Modes of catching Mustangs. - Indians in Sight. - Guarding against a night Attack. - Description of Country. - Rough Travelling. - Arrival at a Freshwater Stream. - Carlos thinks Himself at Home. - General Joy in Cainp. - Scanty Rations. - A Shower and a Stampede. - Cross the supposed Red River again. - Scarcity of " Sign." - Mountains ahead. - A Labyrinth of Difficulties. - Broken Country. - A hunting Adventure. - Get lost upon the Prairie. - Hopelessness of my Situation. - Ruminations upon the Horrors of being Lost. - Fortunate Escape from Difficulty. - A Ride through u Rattlesnake Region. - Once more among my Friends. - Unpleasant Dreams. - A Mesquit Prairie. - Carlos again " at Home." - Three of the Texans sent forward to the Settlements. - Carlos takes the Guidance of the Expedition. - A Buffalo Chase. - River seen to the South. - An Adventure with Deer. - Great Waste of Powder and Ball. - A severe Case of the " Buck Ague." - Symptoms and general Appearance of that singular Disease Page 145

Chapter Ix

Brackish "W ater. - Los Cuervos, or The Crows. - Carlos and his Speculations. - Stream on our Left visited. - Opinion of " Old Paint." - Startling Surmises. - No Water. - Endurance of the Mule. - Singular Valley. - Water seen in the Distance. - Perilous Descent of a Bluff. - Arrival at the River. - More Brackish Water. - An Alarm. - Fire in Camp. - Terrific Spread of the Flames. - Explosion of Cartridges. - Night Ascent of the Bluffs. - Ravages of the Fire. - Extent of our Loss. - Magnificent night Scene. - Our Camp by Daylight. - Coffee too much burned. - Compelled to fall back upon First Principles. - Again on the March. - Intolerable Suffering from Thirst. - A Beautiful Camp. - Disappearance of Carlos and Brignoli. - Horrors of our Situation. - Lost, and without a Guide upon the Prairies. - Shower on the Espy Principle. - Party sent out to Explore. - Rough Travelling. - Gloomy Prospects. - Return to Camp. - Ten Miles for a Draught of Water. - "Doing" our Washing. - Company of Spies sent out. - Death of Doctor Brashear. - Bitter Water. - Rations reduced. - Sufferings now commencing. - Return of one of the Spies. - Again on the March. - Visit to a Commonwealth of Prairie Dogs. - Description of these singular Animals .... 173

A Meal of Prairie Dogs. - Arrival at another brackish Water Camp. - Shower at Night, with fresh Water in the Morning. - Return of the Spy Company. - A regular " Northeaster." - Report of the Spies. - Disagreeable Bivouac. - Indians in Camp. - Horses stolen. - A bad Bargain. - Daring of the Indians. - Fine Weather again. - Once more on the Road. - Dog Towns. - Meeting with a Party of Indians. - Horse Meat far from being bad Eating. - Wolves about. - A dreary Desert. - Delicious fresh-water Stream. - Latitude and Longitude again taken. - Pleasant Prospects. - Again encompassed with Difficulties. - A Passage out found. - Steppes. - Mesquit Prairie and Prairie Dogs. - Mountains in the Distance. - Singing Birds, and Thoughts of Home. - Delusive Hopes. - More Horses stolen. - Bed of Large Rivpr crossed. - Arrival at the Quintufue. - Large Indian Camp discovered. - Caygiias on all Sides. - Indian Provisions. - A Party sent out. - Farther Advance impossible. - A Night without Water. - Preparations for taking a back Tra^k. - Exciting News. - Firing of Guns heard. - Lieutenant Hull and four Men killed by Caygiias. - A Chase after Indians. - Return to the Quintufue. - Determination to divide the Command. - Description of the Caygiias . 195

Contents. Jx Chapter Xi

Departure of the Advance in search of the Settlements. - Summit of the Steppe gained. - Level Prairie before us. - A lovely Scene. - Speculations in relation to Red River. - A Bear Chase. - Bruin noosed. - The March continued. - Sagacity of a Mule. - Arrival at a singular Chasm. - Impossibility of crossing. - A heavy Prairie Shower. - Appearance of our Men. - Description of the Chasm. - A Crossing found. - Loneliness of the Prairies. - Scarcity of Game. - Begin to suffer Hunger. - Arrival at another awful Abyss. - Farther Difficulty in crossing. - Hunger increasing. - Singular Birds. - Mustangs and Antelopes. - Their exceeding Shyness. - Curlews. - A Buffalo descried. - Preparations for a Chase to the Death. - Tom Hancock and his Skill. - Endurance of Jim the Butcher. - Description of the Chase. - Poor Prospects of a Supper Page 215

Chapter Xii

A successful Search. - The Buffalo brought to Bay. - Appearance of my Horse after the Chase. - Prospects of another Shower. - Adventure with a Rattlesnake in the Dark. - Fortunate Escape. - The Shower upon us. - Buffalo found in the Morning. - March resumed. - Swimming our Animals. - Singular Method of Cooking. - Wolves in our Vicinity. - Encounter with a Drove of Mustangs. - Excitement among us. - Mountains discovered ahead. - Leave the grand Prairie. - Singular Hills. - Compelled to abandon our Course. - Chances becoming Desperate. - Suffering and Starvation. - Large fresh- water Stream discovered. - Speculations as to its Name. - Mexican " Sign" seen. - More Remarks in relation to Red River. - Plum Patches. - Carlos and Brignoli seen. - Their Sufferings. - The Texans driven to the greatest strait for Food. - An Anecdote. - Compelled to eat broken-down Horse Flesh. - A cold, raw Night. - Fairly among the Rocky Mountains. - A beautiful Valley. - A Feast of Catfish. - Arrival at the Angosturas. - Encounter with a Party of Mexicans. - Unwonted Excitement. - Matias sent back to the Command. - Advance towards the Settlements. - Farther Sufferings of the Texans. - Meet with an immense Herd of Sheep. - A Feast. - Dissertation on Starvation. - Mexican Shepherds and their Dogs 239

Chapter Xiii

Farther Feasting. - Party sent to the Settlements. - Author accompanies it. - Objects of sending the Party ahead. - News respecting Howland and his Companions. - Encounter with Mexican Muleteers. - Their Fright at our Approach. - Farther Information in relation to Howland. - Manuel sent back. - Suspicious Horsemen seen. - Arrival at Anton Chico. - Consternation of the Inhabitants. - Scanty Raiment of the Women. - Confidence restored. - Description of Anton Chico. - Scantiness of the Furniture. - A Dinner under Cover. - Start for San Miguel. - Compelled to return. - A Night at Anton Chico. - Bad Colds, with worse Coughs to match. - A sus- picious Visiter. - Report that we were to be arrested. - Start again from Anton Chico. - Valuables concealed. - Arrival at Cuesta. - Commotion in the Village. - Our Party surrounded by Mexican Troops. - Apparent Frankness of their Leader, Dimasio Salezar. - Our Arms taken from us. - Consultation of Salezar and his Officers. - We are formed in Line and searched. - Mexican Duplicity. - A trying Scene. - Prompt Interference of Vigil in saving our Lives. - We are marched towards San Miguel. - Kindness of the Women. - Don Jesus, and his Attempt to tie us. - Description of our Guard. - Puertecito. - More of the Women. - Arrival at San Miguel. - Meanness of the Alcalde and Kindness of the Priest. - Our first Night in Prison Page 269

Chapter Xiv

Ordered to march towards Santa Fe. - Departure from San Miguel. - Gloomy Anticipations. - Our Guard increased. - A Present from a Woman. - Meet with a Party of Mexican Troops. - Brutality of their Leader. - Lewis, Van Ness, and Fitzgerald tied with Cords. - Description of Don Jesus. - Large Bodies of Troops passed. - Their miserable Appointments - Our first Interview with Governor Armijo. - His Reception. - Conduct of Lewis. - We are ordered back to San Miguel. - Armijo's last Command. - Carlos seen. - First Appearance upon a Donkey. - Antics of the Animal. - A heavy night Shower. - Once more at San Miguel. - Barbarous Execution of one of our Comrades. - We are ordered before the Governor. - An exciting Trial. - Rowland condemned to Die. - Cruel Mode of Execution. - Noble Conduct of Howland. - Kindness of a young Priest. - Reflections upon our Situation. - Departure of Mexican Troops for Anton Chico. - News of Colonel Cooke and his Men. - Plans of Armijo. - Particulars of the Capture of Howland. - Description of Manuel Pino. - News of the Capture of our Friends at Anton Chico. - Great Rejoicings at San Miguel . . 291

Chapter Xv

New Quarters. - Our Party taken before Armijo. - Reception by that Functionary. - His bombastic Account of the Soldiers of New Mexico. - Again taken to Prison. - Appearance of Armijo. - Description of our Prison. - Overrun with Chinches. - The Family next Door. - The Zapatero's Wife. - A singular Custom. - The Seilora Francisca abandons her Paint. - Dress of the Females of New Mexico. - Its Scantiness. - Freaks of Fashion. - Description of the Reboso and Mantilla. - Beauties of the Women of Mexico. - Kindness of the Girls of San Miguel. - Colonel Cooke's Men marched through San Miguel. - Lieutenant Lubbock's Account of the Surrender. - Agency of Lewis in the Affair. - Change of Quarters. - Prison Occupations. - Manner of passing our Time. - Chances of an Escape canvassed. - Arrival of Caravans from the United States. - We are not permitted Conversation with our Countrymen. - A seasonable Supply of Luxuries. - The Author assured of his personal Release. - A Mexican Loafer. - Tomas Bustamente - Employ him as our principal Agent. - Thomas Rowland -

Contents

His Release from Arrest. - Bustamente sent on a Mission to Lewis. - Its unsuccessful Result. - Thoughts upon Pipes. - Bustamente's Trickery found out. - Confidence lost in the Man. - Come to the Conclusion that the Mexicans will bear watching Page 313

Chapter Xvi

Arrival of a Party of our Companions as Prisoners. - Great Excitement in San Miguel. - Recognition of our Friends, and their Departure. - Don Antonio Baca. - Attachment of one of his Daughters for a Texan Prisoner. - " Old Paint" Caldwell and Nine of his Men brought in Prisoners. - Still greater Excitement in San Miguel. - The Patron Saint brought from his Niche in the Church. - A Mexican Procession. - A funny Figure. - Programme of the Procession. - An old Priest with queer Spectacles. - A Pair of Musicians. - More of San Miguel, the Patron Saint. - End of the Procession. - Startling Information. - Bustamente informs us that all our Comrades have been taken Prisoners. - Great Rejoicing in San Miguel. - General McLeod and other Texans brought into the Plaza. - Mr. Falconer. - - Arrival of all the Prisoners. - Dreadful Appearance of the Texans. - Lewis arrives. - News that the Author is to be liberated. - Division of the Spoils. - Agency of Lewis in the Transaction. - A Visit from Lewis. - More of his Treachery and Rascality. - His Departure for Santa Fe. - A veritable History of Don Manuel Armijo, from his Youth upward, being a short but faithful Narrative of his thieving, gambling, assassinating, and other base Acts and Propensities 334

Chapter Xvii

Unrealized Hopes. - A Brood of unhatched Chickens. - We are quartered with our Companions. - Arrival of " Old Paint." - Joy at seeing the Veteran. - Another Meeting with Friends. - Stories of Suffering. - Liberated Prisoners again confined. - Armijo and Lewis. - Departure for the City of Mexico. - A long and gloomy March before us. - The Brute Salezar in Command. - Bustamente and the Women of San Miguel. - Causes of the Failure of the Santa Fe Expedition. - Arrival at a deserted Mission. - Sufferings of the Prisoners from Cold. - More of Salezar's Brutalities. - The dreary March continued. - Arrival at Pino's Rancho. - Farther Sufferings. - A cold Camping-ground. - Hard Fare. - Frostbitten Feet. - Horrible Threat of Salezar. - Santo Domingo. - Kindness of the Women. - San Felipe. - First Sight of the Rio Grande. - Algodones. - A Second "Black Hole of Calcutta." - Arrival at the Indian Village of Sandia. - A singular Rite. - Description of the Inhabitants. - Alameda. - Scene in an Oven. - Misery makes us acquainted with strange Bedfellows. - Sufferings on the Increase. - Bottoms of the Rio Grande ; their Fertility. - Albuquerque in Sight. - Herons and Wild Geese. - A dashing Mexican Horseman. - Lieutenant Hornsby abducted. - Arrival at Albuquerque. - The Family of Armijo. - Farther Kindness of the Women. - General Pike's Journal. - The Pretty Girl of Albuquerque 361

Chapter Xviii

Los Placeres. - Another dark Leaf in Salezar's Character. - Women and Watermelons. - Reappearance of Lieutenant Hornsby. - His singular Story of Adventure. - The dashing Horseman and his gentle and generous Wife. - Arrival at Valencia. - Farther Sufferings of the Prisoners. - Kindness of an old Woman. - Death of Ernest. - An American Traveller. - Cruel Murder of McAllister. - Its Effect upon the Prisoners. - Casa Colorada. - A comfortable Camp. - Appearance of the Valley of the Rio Grande. - Uses of the Cotton-wood. - Salezar and the Alcaldes. - The Mexican Button Market. - Straits to which the Prisoners were driven. - A Story of Stump. - Magoffin's Wagons passed. - American Drivers. - Not allowed to hold Converse with them. - Arrival at Joya. - A Fandango. - Salezar Drunk. - Conduct of the American Drivers on the Occasion. - Parrida. - Crossing the Rio Grande. - Arrival at Socorro. - A short Rest allowed. - Character of the Inhabitants. - A Party of Apaches. - Anecdote of the Priest of Socorro. - Head Chief of the Apaches. - His dignified Bearing. - Obsequiousness of Salezar. - Basque de los Apaches. - Recrossing the Rio Grande. - The Camp of Fray Cristobal. - A Snow-storm at Night. - Appearance of the Prisoners by Daylight. - Colds and Coughs Page 386

Objects of the first Texan Santa Fe Expedition. - Determination to accompany it. - The Western Limits of Texas. - Her Claim to the Rio Grande. - Colonel Butler's contemplated Expedition to Santa Fe. - Causes of its Failure. - Preparations for joining the Texans. - Departure from New-Orleans. - Steam-ship New-York. - Captain Wright's Specific against Thirst. - Arrival at Galveston. - Frank Combs. - City of Houston. - Stories of old Hunters and Campaigners. - Houston Horse Jockeys. - Choice of an Animal. - Leave Houston for Austin. - Ladies on Horseback. - Race with a Thunder-shower. - Incidents upon the Road. - Arrival at Austin. - Mr. Falconer. - English Travellers. - Party to San Antonio made up. - Jim the Butcher sent to the Stable. - Mexican Mountain Pony. - His Mustaches, and Powers of Endurance.

" WHAT were the objects of the Santa Fe Expedition?" and "What induced you to accompany it?" are questions which have been so often asked me, that I cannot carry my reader a single mile upon the long journey before us until they are answered. Without preamble or preface, then, I will to the task.

In the early part of April, 1841, I determined upon making a tour of some kind upon the great Western Prairies, induced by the hope of correcting a derangement of health, and by a strong desire to visit regions inhabited only by the roaming Indian, to find new subjects upon which to write, as well as to participate in

The determination to take an excursion of this kind once made, my next object was to fix upon the route. The prairies west of St. Louis, the hunting-grounds of the Pawnees and other savage tribes, had been explored by Charles Augustus Murray, and described by his graphic pen ; here was no new opening. Again, M. C. Field, one of my assistants in the " Picayune," had made the journey to Santa Fe by way of Independence, Missouri, and a series of articles written by him, upon the subject of his adventures, had found favour in the eyes of the public, being much copied into other journals. Here was another beaten and well-known road ; yet I determined to traverse it if no other offered.

About the first of May of the same year, a number of young gentlemen' of my acquaintance set on foot the project of an excursion to the prairies and buffalogrounds, taking either Fort Towson or Fort Gibson in the route, and roaming through the Osage country and over a part of that section visited by Washington Irving in his foray upon the prairies. While canvassing the chances and merits of a trip of this kind, I met with Major George T. Howard, then in New-Orleans purchasing goods for the Texan Santa Fe Expedition.

Of the character of this enterprise I at once made inquiry. Major Howard informed me that it was commercial in its intentions, the policy of the then President of Texas, General Mirabeau B. Lamar, being to open a direct trade with Santa Fe by a route known to be much nearer than the great Missouri trail. To divert this trade was certainly the primary and ostensible object ; but that General Lamar had an ulterior intention - that of bringing so much of the province of New

Western Boundary Of Texas

Mexico as lies upon the eastern or Texan side of the Rio Grande under the protection of his government - I did not know until I was upon the march to Santa Fe. He was led to conceive this project by a well-founded belief that nine tenths of the inhabitants were discontented under the Mexican yoke, and anxious to come under the protection of that flag to which they really owed fealty. I say a well-founded belief ; the causes which influenced him were assurances from New Mexico - positive assurances - that the people would hail the coming of an expedition with gladness, and at once declare allegiance to the Texan government.

With the proofs General Lamar had, that such a feeling existed in New Mexico, he could not act otherwise than he did - could not do other than give the people of Eastern New Mexico an opportunity to throw off" the galling yoke under which they had long groaned. Texas claimed, as her western boundary, the Rio Grande ; the inhabitants within that boundary claimed protection of Texas. Was it anything but a duty, then, for the chief magistrate of the latter to afford all its citizens such assistance as was in his power ?

Texas claims, as I have just stated, the Rio Grande as her western boundary ; yet, so isolated were Santa Fe, and such of the settled portions of New Mexico as were situated on the eastern side of that stream, that the new Republic had never been able to exercise jurisdiction over a people really within her limits.* The time had now arrived, so thought the rulers of Texas, when rule should be exercised over the length and breadth of her domain - when the citizens of her farthest borders should be brought into the common fold - - and with the full belief in their readiness and willingness for the movement, the Texan Santa Fe Expedition was originated. On its arrival at the destined point, should the inhabitants really manifest a disposition to declare their full allegiance to Texas, the flag of the single-star Republic would have been raised on the Government House at Santa Fe ; but if not, the Texan commissioners were merely to make such arrangements with the authorities as would best tend to the opening of a trade, and then retire. The idea, which has obtained credence to some extent in the United States, that the first Texan Santa Fe pioneers were but a company of marauders, sent to burn, slay and destroy in a foreign and hostile country, is so absurd as not to require contradiction ; the attempt to conquer a province, numbering some one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants within its borders, was a shade too Quixotical to find favour in the eyes of the three hundred and twenty odd pioneers who left Texas, encumbered with wagons, merchandise, and the implements of their different trades and callings. The expedition was un fortunate, and, as a natural consequence, the censorious world has said that it was conceived in unwise policy. In the progress of my narrative, it will be seen that its failure arose from causes purely fortuitous ; in a word, that the enterprise had failed and been broken up long before those engaged in it had reached the confines of New Mexico.

The expedition was to leave Austin, the capital of Texas, about the last of May or first of June. The route to be taken had not been determined upon when Major Howard was in New-Orleans, but it was thought that the pioneers would follow up the San Saba road, from San Antonio to Santa Fe ; a route extending in nearly a northwest, and, as was then thought, a direct line. Fearing that there might be a scarcity of water on this trace, the direction was afterward changed.

That an enterprise, so purely commercial in its aspect, was intended for a hostile invasion of Mexico, did not, as I have already stated, enter the mind of any one at the time - at least not in Texas, where the inhabitants should be best able to judge. That a military force of some three hundred men accompanied the expedition is well known, and it is equally well known that the route across the prairies, whether by the San Saba or the Red River, would lead directly through the very heart of the Camanche and Caygiia country - inhabited by Indians who are foes alike to both Mexicans and Texans. It cannot be considered very strange, then, that in a country so infested with hostile savages as Texas is, where a man hardly dares go out to catch his horse without a rifle and pair of pistols about him, a military force accompanied this expedition. The number of men was really not larger than that which accompanied the earlier Missouri enterprises ; and large as it was, it did not prove sufficient for the purposes intended, many valuable lives being taken, and a large number of horses stolen, by the Indians we encountered on the route. These remarks I have made to counteract assertions put forth by the ignorant few, that the very fact of a military force being sent with the expedition was prool sufficient of its original hostile intentions. They would have had us, forsooth, start off with walking-sticks and umbrellas, and been scalped to a man in order to prove our object pacific. Perhaps their knowledge of the barbarians, through whose territory we were to pass, was of a piece with that of a very worthy agent sent to Texas, some years ago, by the French government. This gentleman planned an excursion after buffalo, directly into the hunting-grounds of the Camanches, to be accompanied only by two of his friends with servants. On being told of the certainty that he would be killed, he confidently remarked that he should carry the flag of France with him - the Camanches would never dare insult that !

It was while making inquiries, as to the nature and objects of the Texan expedition, that I first heard of an enterprise somewhat similar, then in contemplation in the United States. A company, under the command of Colonel Pierce M. Butler, formerly governor of South Carolina, and well known as an efficient and gallant officer, was to leave a point high up on Red River for Santa Fe, having for escort a body of United States dragoons. What was the object of this enterprise, whether to counteract the Texans in their attempt to divert the New Mexican trade or otherwise, I am unable to say. It was abandoned, at all events, for the reason that Colonel Butler could not make all his preparations in season to ensure a sufficiency of grass and water upon the prairies ; but had it started, I should have made one of the party.

Thus foiled, I finally resolved upon accompanying the Texans. My intentions were, on joining this expedition, to leave it before it should reach Santa Fe, so as in no way to commit myself, and then to make the entire tour of Mexico - visiting the cities of Chihuahua, Durango, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, and others on the road to the capital. These intentions I made known to all my friends in New-Orleans, not one of whom thought I should in any way compromise myself as an American citizen, or forfeit my right to protection, by the route I proposed pursuing. By a law of

Departure From New-Orleans

Mexico - a law of which I must confess myself at the time ignorant - a foreigner is prohibited from entering that country through the territory of Texas ; but the only punishment for this offence is being ordered out of Mexico by the nearest road, a penalty which would have been very willingly submitted to by me at any moment while I was in that country.

Having made every other preparation for my tour through Texas and Mexico, I went, on the morning of the 15th of May, 1841, in company with James H. Brewer, Esq., to the office of the then Mexican viceconsul at New-Orleans, and obtained from him a passport, which gave me permission to enter, as an American citizen, any place in the so-called Republic of Mexico. Thus fortified, and with intentions the most pacific towards both the countries through which I was to pass, on the 17th of May I sailed from my native land, in the steam-ship New- York, Captain Wright, for Galveston. On bidding adieu to my friends, I anticipated an exciting and interesting tour of some four months' duration, and expected to meet with the usual dangers and participate in the usual sports to be met with on the borders and prairies - nothing more.

Our voyage from New-Orleans to Galveston was characterized by little worthy of remark. Some of the passengers were seasick, and all such were laughed at ; some of them asserted, very positively, that if they could once set foot upon shore, they never would be seen out of sight of it, while others said they cared but little whether they ever saw land again. One circumstance I well remember : our captain told me that a piece of raw hide, placed in the mouth while suffering thirst, would impart much moisture, and consequent relief; and months afterward, when in a situation to try the

Early on the morning of the 19th of May we reached Galveston. This, in a commercial point of view, is the most important place in Texas ; yet no vessel larger than an ordinary sloop of war can cross the bar at the highest tide. The harbour is considered far from safe ; yet it is one of the best on the entire coast, from the mouth of the Rio Grande to the Sabine, and must be the point from which a large portion of the cotton and other products of Texas will always be shipped.

At Galveston I found every one talking of the proposed Santa Fe Expedition. It was looked upon as nothing more than a pleasant hunting excursion, through a large section of country, much of which was unknown to the white man. Such portions of the route as had been previously explored were known to abound with buffalo, bear, elk, antelope, and every species of game, besides fish and wild honey. The climate was also known to be dry and salubrious ; in short, until a point high up on Red River should be gained, the trip promised to be one of continued interest and pleasure. But beyond that point the country was a perfect terra incognita, untrodden save by wild and wandering Indians, and all were eager to partake of the excitement of being among the first to explore it.

At Galveston I became acquainted with young Frank Combs, son of General Leslie Combs, of Kentucky. He had partially made up his mind to accompany the expedition, in the hope of recovering his hearing, which had been for some time defective ; on learning that I intended to start that evening for Houston, on my way to Austin, he made hurried preparations to set off in my company on board a steamer. The next morning we were landed safely at Houston.

Stories Of Old Campaigners

Here all was bustle and preparation. A company of volunteers, comprising some of the most enterprising young men residing in and about Houston, had been formed, and all were busy in making arrangements for their departure for Austin, the point whence the expedition was to take the line of march for Santa Fe. Every gunsmith in the place was occupied, night and day, in repairing guns and pistols ; every saddler was at work manufacturing bullet-pouches, and mending the saddles and bridles of the volunteers - all was hurry, preparation, and excitement.

To give some idea of the opinions entertained at Houston, of the objects of the expedition to Santa Fe, I will here describe the general tone of conversation. Hardly a word was said of any hostile collision with the inhabitants of New Mexico ; on the contrary, a chase after buffalo or a brush with the Camanches or some of the hostile tribes known to be wandering about the immense Western prairies, was the principal topic upon every tongue. Old campaigners and hunters were among the speakers, and the wild stories they told of their forays upon the borders and beyond the borders of civilization, of their hair-breadth 'scapes and encounters with bears, rattlesnakes, Camanches, buffaloes, and other inhabitants of the boundless prairies, with the thousand and one tales of the marvellous these frontier Leather Stockings always have at their command - either ready made or easy of construction at the time of need - all served to render those who had already made up their minds to join the party more eager than ever, and induced the lukewarm to '- pack up" and follow their example.

Determined to be in no way connected with the expedition, farther than travelling with it at my own pleasure, and for such time as might suit my own interest and convenience, I had scrupulously avoided involving the Texan government in the least expense in providing the minutest article of my outfit. My rifle - short, but heavy barrelled, and throwing a ball,* with great strength and precision, a long distance - I had purchased of the well-known Dickson, of Louisville, Ky., and a most excellent rifle it was. My pistols, powder and lead, bowie and other knives, blankets, accoutrements for my horse, and other implements and articles necessary for a prairie tour, I had picked up here and there - some having been given me by my kind friends in New-Orleans, while others I had purchased before leaving that city. My necessities now required little save a horse, and as this was one of the most important points in an efficient " fit out," I determined to take my time and obtain a good one.

Any one who has entered the Houston horse-market with the intention of purchasing, is well aware that it is easy enough to buy a nag, but not so easy to procure one of the right sort.

When it became known that i wished to operate a little in horseflesh as a purchaser, all sorts of nags were " trotted out" by the different dealers and proprietors. There was the heavy American horse, whose owner had probably entered Texas by the inland or Red River route, and wishing to return by way of New-Orleans, had no farther use for him ; then there were the wirylooking Indian pony, doubtless broken down and shortwinded from hard usage ; the light but game Mexican ; and last, the recently caught, restless, and apparently vicious mustang, or wild horse of the prairie : all these different samples were offered for my inspection, with the usual catalogues of their many merits, particularly their great powers of endurance. From so large an assortment I found not a little difficulty in making a selection. I looked, with an eye of fondness and craving, upon a beautiful nag, half Spanish, half wild, of fine action and most delicate points. I thought of the " show off" I could make upon a horse of this peculiar description, for he had an ambling and a proud gait, but just at this moment prudence suggested the idea of the long journey I had before me, and I purchased a heavy and powerful American horse for four times the sum with which I could have bought the spotted and sprightly Spanish pony. He was far from being " a good horse to look at," but was " an excellent one to go," and never was money better invested. Bravely, and without once flagging, did he carry me my long journey through, ever ready to start off on a buffalo or other chase, and enduring to the last. " Jim the Butcher" - not a very romantic or euphonious name, but so he was called by the man of whom I purchased him - is now in the hands of the Mexicans, and sincerely do I hope they have treated him with more kindness and consideration than they did his master. Would that I had him now. Want should never overtake him until it had first conquered me.

With the purchase of my horse ended my immediate wants. I was now fully armed, mounted, and equipped for the prosecution of my journey. I cannot take leave of Houston, however, without tendering my thanks to the many kind friends I found there. To Captain Radcliff Hudson, and Lieutenants Lubbock and Ostrander, in particular, I was under many obligations. They were the officers elect of the Houston Company of Santa Fe Pioneers, and cordially invited me to mess with them as a " guest" on the expedition. Although reluctantly compelled to decline their invitation, I could still appreciate the kind motives which induced them to proffer it.

Frank Combs and myself, with one or two others also on their way to Austin, left Houston late in the afternoon. The weather was hot and sultry, and dark clouds in the southwest gave every indication of a heavy shower before nightfall. The house that had been recommended to us to stop at over night was some twelve miles distant, inducing us to gallop rapidly along with the hope of reaching our resting-place before the coming down of the shower. As we cleared the pine woods by which Houston is environed, and struck out into the prairies, we met a party of ladies and gentlemen on horseback. They, too, were pressing their nags to the utmost, evidently to reach shelter before the heavy black clouds should commence discharging their torrents ; and the loud and merry laugh of the ladies, as they gayly and swiftly passed along, showed that they were perfectly at home on horseback, and heedless of any break-neck risks they might be running.

After a closely-contested race, of an hour's duration, with the shower, during which it was almost impossible to say which would come out ahead, we finally reached our stopping-place neck-and-neck - in racing parlance, made a " dead heat" of it. No sooner had we thrown ourselves from our jaded animals and hastily stripped them of their saddles, than the large and widely-scattered raindrops, which usually precede a shower, gave place to a perfect avalanche of water. Our log-house quar-

The Loss Of A Scalp

The heavens were still overhung with clouds on the ensuing morning, although the rain had nearly subsided. After partaking of a warm breakfast, we resumed our journey across the gently undulating and fertile prairies to be found between all the many streams which water Texas. Although not yet June, the corn was nearly as high as a man's head, and gave goodly token of a most abundant harvest. The following day we crossed the Brazos at San Felipe de Austin, formerly a place of some little note, but now falling to decay. Another day, after two or three tolerably severe drenchings from the almost hourly showers that were falling, carried us through Bastrop to a noted stopping-place for travellers, within some twenty miles of Austin. The proprietor of this plantation, with his brother or son-in-law, and a few others, had settled upon it long before the revolution, and in the most troublous Indian times. Frequent and bloody were the encounters between the whites and their savage neighbours, in which the former generally came off victorious, although at times they lost some one of their number. On taking seats at the dinner-table, in the house I have just mentioned, I noticed, with some little surprise, that one of the male members of the family sat down with his hat on. I thought him guilty of great rudeness or forgetfulness ; but before we left, the mystery was explained. In one of the early encounters with the Indians he had been shot down, tomahawked, and scalped by his brutal enemies, and then left for dead. After remaining senseless for some time, the wounded

* The process of filling, with clay, the interstices between the logs of all houses in the new countries - for there all the houses are at first made of logs - is called " chinking and daubing."

man revived. He had bled much from several wounds, and was suffering extremely from pain ; yet he had strength and resolution to crawl first to a spring of water, and then to his log-shanty, a distance of several miles. He suffers to this day from nervous headache, and, I believe, always wears his hat closely drawn down. He is the second person I have seen who has survived the barbarous process of scalping, and may be looked upon as a living witness of what the honest Hibernian said was a fact, namely, " that a man is not always dead when he is killed !" .

On arriving at Austin, I was introduced to Colonel William G. Cooke and Doctor R. F. Brenham,* two of the commissioners appointed by General Lamar to treat with the inhabitants of New Mexico. They informed me that the expedition would not leave under a week at least - probably not under ten or twelve days. This delay I did not much regret, as it would give me an opportunity of visiting San Antonio, by far the most interesting place in Texas, not only from the beauty of its location and the old Spanish missions in its neighbourhood, but from its being the spot where some of the fiercest battles in the early part of the Texan Revolution were fought.

At Austin I first became acquainted with Mr. Falconer, a young English gentleman of high literary and scientific attainments, mild and agreeable manners, and

* Poor Brenham ! He passed safely through all the perils, hardships, and sufferings of the Santa Fe expedition, to be again taken prisoner at the sanguinary battle of Mier, fought in the early part of the past year, 1843. While again on his march as a prisoner to the city of Mexico, Brenham induced his fellow-prisoners to join him in an attempt to escape. He led the attack upon the guards, had already killed two of them, and severely wounded a third, when he stumbled and fell directly upon the bayonet of his falling enemy. Thus died Brenham, and in him Texas lost one of her bravest and most generous spirits.

English Travellers

what is rare among his countrymen when away from home, extremely sociable and companionable qualities from the first. Your English traveller, unless he is an old stager, has seen much of the world, and has learned to take the many discomforts he is sure to encounter with composure, is prone to grumble. Nature has made him a most excellent growler, but not a traveller ; and he cannot combat against her arbitrary laws. Meet him in a stage-coach, a steamboat, or a railroad car, and as far as his dress goes - for no man knows better how to dress, while travelling, than an Englishman* - all is right ; but attempt to draw him into conversation,* and he will wrap a hauteur about him more impenetrable than his rough overcoat. He will answer your question, it is true, but in such a way that you think he wishes to shut the gate against your asking another. His yes is short and quick, like the breaking of a pipestem ; his no comes snappingly from him, like the growl of a hyena when punched through the bars of his cage with a long pole. Yankee ingenuity tries, but in vain, to find out his name, his place of residence, his business - in short, who or what he is - and all this while the close observer may detect a half smile of self-satisfaction on the round and ruddy face of John Bull, as he cruelly, yet successfully puzzles his indefatigable interlocutor.

Yet, with all his coldness and unapproachability, one cannot help admiring the English traveller. There is nothing assumed or studied in his formality - all is nat-

* How different with the American traveller. He must needs, on starting on a journey, array himself in his " Sunday-go-to-meeting" dress. He makes his toilet with the greatest care, alike regardless of rain, dust, or sparks from locomotives. The Englishman laughs at him, and with good show of reason ; for a more absurd custom could not well be devised. I have been pleased to observe, of late, that my countrymen are gradually dropping thi» foolish habit.

ural. He never asks questions - never, therefore, gives you an excuse for addressing questions to him. You think him unsocial and distant, from the coldness of his answers : he thinks you impertinent and forward, from the boldness of your questions. Both, to a certain degree, are right - and both are wrong. Could a medium rule of conduct be adopted, I am not certain that the ethics of those little sovereignties - the stage-coach, the car, and the steamboat - would not be greatly improved. I have said that the Englishman is not " cut out" for a traveller ; nor is he. With all the comforts of home about him, he will still find something to grumble at - but when he leaves it, everything goes wrong. The roads over which he travels are bad, the landlords of the houses where he may chance to stop are unaccommodating, the servants are inattentive, the beef is overdone, the mutton is tough and unsavoury. All this may be true, to a certain extent, for your traveller cannot find everything to his liking or taste away from his own homestead ; but where your American good-humouredly cracks a hyperbolical joke at the expense of the landlord ; where your Frenchman shrugs his shoulders, and grins and bears it ; where your German resorts to his pipe or cigar for consolation, your Englishman " makes a muss" about it, and growls his dissatisfaction in looks and in words. While in the stage-coach, should your only companion by chance be an Englishman, you would be led to think that a sentence to six months' imprisonment on the " silent system" would be neither punishment nor bore to him ; but set him down to his dinner, at a common roadside tavern, and, like Billy Bottom in the old play, he will " roar you like any lion." But in the social circle, or in the drawing-room, where the formalities of a regular introduction have been gone through, there our friend John is a (afferent sort of personage - there an English gentleman is a gentleman in every sense of the word. Having now left our Englishman in comfortable quarters, where he is enjoying himself, I will return to my friend, Mr. Falconer.

He informed me that he had some little business at San Antonio, and that he should start on the ensuing day, in company with one or two friends, for that city. Here was just the opportunity I wished for. The distance from Austin to San Antonio is some eighty miles, without a single human habitation on the route. Parties of hostile Indians are continually hovering about in the vicinity of the road, ready to attack any party they may think themselves able to overcome. The bones of many unfortunate white men are now bleaching upon the prairies, between the two cities, where the travellers were waylaid and killed. At one time the wayfarer is shot at by a party of foot Indians from some cover or ambuscade ; at another, he is attacked upon the open prairies by a superior number of mounted Camanches - a tribe that appear to live, move, and have their being, or, in other words, to eat, sleep, work and fight, on horseback.

Mr. Falconer's little party consisted of himself, a Kentuckian named Mat Small, and a Canadian Frenchman named Gramont. Small had received the first rudiments of a hunter's education in Kentucky, and had finished it in Texas. An experience so extensive, and formed upon such excellent models, had rendered him somewhat noted the country round for his science and skill as a finished borderer. Gramont, on the contrary, had been educated at Trois Rivieres for the priesthood, but had never taken holy orders. He was now, instead of selling masses and hearing confessions at so much C2 apiece, quietly pursuing the calling of a surveyor in the country of San Patricio, to which point he was on his way. This was Mr. Falconer's entire force, and with this he had made all his arrangements for the journey ; but he was now re-enforced by myself and Frank Combs, the latter having made up his mind to join the party. We thus mustered five strong, all well armed and equipped for a trip that is set down as extra-hazardous.

Wishing to give my horse every chance to gain flesh and strength before starting for Santa Fe, I left him with a livery-stable keeper at Austin, and hired a little, roughlooking Mexican mountain pony in his stead. The latter was considerably advanced in years, disposed to take every advantage, and shirk from everything in the shape of hard work. He moreover had a huge pair of mustaches on his upper lip, appendages which belong, I believe, almost exclusively to horses from his particular section and of his particular species ; at all events,! have never seen them worn by other nags. He was tough, however, as wrought iron, and although one hour's riding would bring on a lazy fit, ten would not tire him ; a fact of which I had most abundant evidence afterward.

Preparations For Departure

Leave Austin for San Antonio. - Prospects of a Shower. - Singular Conduct of Mat Small. - A regular Soaking. - Crossing the Colorado. - No Bottom for short-legged Animals. - Venison for Supper. - More of Mat Small. - Damp Lodgings. - Serenade of Wolves. - Meeting with old Friends. - The St. Mark's. - Head Springs. - Disturbance at Night - Arrival of Frien-Js from Austin. - Journey towards San Antonio renewed. - Colonel Cooke in search of a Short Cut. - Encounter with a Texan War Party. - Hostile Indians about. - A Texan killed. - Mr. Falconer's Portrait taken while sitting upon a Mule. - Amusing Adventure. - More scared than hurt. - The Guadalupe. - The Salado. - Night Entry into San Antonio. - Yelping Curs. - Fun at a Fandango. - A Mexican Dance, - Monte. - Getting the Hang of the Game. - Return to Lodgings. - Comparative Merits of Floors. - Difference between Plank, Stone, and Earth. - Rough Life in Perspective. - Nothing after getting used to it.

THE morning of the day on which we were to start for San Antonio was unusually hot and sultry, with hardly a breath of air stirring. We had determined upon leaving Austin late in the afternoon, riding about twelve miles, and then encamping for the night on the banks of a small creek. This plan is generally adopted by persons travelling between the two places, although they are obliged, in consequence, to " camp out" two nights instead of one ; but as starting early in the morning makes two long and tiresome days' marches, the former plan is deemed the most feasible and agreeable.

After dinner, while we were saddling our horses and making preparations for departure, a black cloud about the size of a buzzard was seen in the southwest. Before we were ready to mount, this cloud had spread over the whole quarter of the sky where it made its first appearance. The distant rumbling of thunder \vas by this time plainly heard, and the most uninitiated in the knowledge of the " weather-wise," could easily enough see that a tremendous shower was shortly to break over us. Such prudence as I was at that time in possession of, though unenlightened by experience in what most appertains to bodily comfort in the forest and prairie, suggested that if we were to send our nags to the stable, until the shower, or at least the weight of it, should be over, our evening ride would be more agreeable and the risk of catching cold far less ; but instead of pursuing this course. Mat Small seemed hurrying himself to the utmost to make a start before the rain began to fall, as if anxious to get the full benefit and luxury of the shower, if any it had. He appeared to be our leader, though self-delegated ; and against his experience I deemed it prudent not to raise a murmur. Not a word did he utter - his very look was law.

To a person who, like myself, had been admonished from early infancy, both by precept and example, to keep within doors as much as possible during the heavier species of showers, the prospect now was certainly neither pleasant nor flattering. Yet there was Small, tightening his saddle-girths and arranging his wallet of stores with as much unconcern as if he did not see the threatening deluge that was hanging over us, or if he did, cared nothing for it. My companions, too, appeared to be suddenly taken with a fit of haste, and hurried through the little preliminary preparations as though life and death depended upon their " getting off" before the rain commenced falling. That some of them did it for effect I am confident.

Crossing The Colorado

" Wet to the skin to a certainty," I answered aloud, with the hope that I might draw Small's attention to the threatening heavens ; but he never once looked at the cloud. I saw that he was determined to start ; and as I should only be making a laughing-stock of myself by demurring, I assumed an indifference I was far from possessing, and pretended to care as little for the impending flood as any of my companions. Before my journeyings were half through I got bravely over my antipathy to thunder-showers, and took them as coolly and kindly as a young duck.

The Colorado, which we were compelled to cross immediately on leaving the city, was distant some half or three quarters of a mile. We had scarcely mounted our animals before the rain commenced falling, and ere we had gone two hundred yards from shelter the full weight of the shower was upon us. It may have rained harder before, may have rained harder since - these are questions I do not feel called upon to decide ; but this much I will say, that if it ever has I did not happen to be out at the time. It rained as though every window in heaven was thrown wide open, and a perfect Niagara of water was falling upon us.

By the time we reached the Colorado I was drenched to the skin - as wet as though I had been out in the forty days' deluge without greatcoat or umbrella. We found the river somewhat swollen by the previous rains, and the current running unusually fast ; but the man Small, who appeared to have adopted the motto of " go ahead" without taking Crockett's precaution of first ascertaining whether he was right or wrong, spurred his animal directly into the stream. Gramont and Frank Combs, well mounted on tall and spirited horses, did the same, and made the crossing without swimming ;

Falconer and myself, perched upon animals of smaller size and shorter limbs, were not equally successful. We were obliged to swim them across ; but finally, after not a little floundering, reached the opposite bank in safety.

At a brisk pace we rode through the rich and fertile bottom of the Colorado, and soon reached the green and rolling prairies. In half an hour the rain had passed over, but the sun was still hidden by dark and heavy clouds in the west. When within two miles-of the place where we were to encamp, I descried a deer some distance from our trail, quietly feeding. As there was a small clump of bushes near the animal, affording a good cover for an approach, I jumped from my horse with the determination of having a little fresh venison for supper if possible. I was fortunate enough to reach the low bushes without being seen, and after carefully peeping through them for a few moments discovered the deer, with head erect and nostrils distended, gazing steadily in the direction of my cover. Ever and anon he would give the well-known blow or whistle, showing plainly that he scented danger, although he could not see it. I raised my rifle suddenly and fired. The smoke hung lazily on the damp atmosphere, and several seconds elapsed before I could see whether I had made a successful shot. I had been told, by old hunters, never to stir from my tracks, after firing, until I had reloaded, and this advice I now followed. On approaching the spot where, but a few moments before, the deer had stood so full of life and activity, I found him lying stiff - the heavy ball from my rifle having passed directly through his body. Although the task was difficult, I succeeded in throwing the dead animal across my horse's back, and with this extra load rode to the camp. Small gave a species of half-smothered, chuckling laugh as I threw what I deemed no inconsiderable trophy of my skill to the ground, I noticed the smile, but did not, at the time, fully understand it.

In less time than it takes me to record it, the veteran hunter had cut a shoulder and some of the more delicate and eatable portions from the deer, and then, rolling the remainder and larger portion out of the way with his foot, remarked that it was but " poor doe." I told him that it was no doe at all, but a young buck - I could not say much as to its fatness. He gave another half-laugh, accompanied by a slight shrug of the shoulders and a sarcastic leer out of the corners of his eyes, and then thrust a stick through the pieces of meat which he still held in his hand. Another minute passed, and the venison, with some clumsily-cut slices of ham which Mr. Falconer had providently brought with him, was cooking before a large fire which the latter gentleman had kindled. A goodly-sized pot of coffee was also quickly boiling upon the same fire, and what with the scent of the roasting meat, and the fragrance of the old Java, I soon was the possessor of an appetite a city gourmand might envy. Most ample justice did I do to it in the way of eating, after the meat was cooked ; and a tm cup of coffee, sweetened, it is true, but without milk, I then thought the most delicious draught I had ever tasted. It would be folly to deny that an appetite, known only in the woods and on the prairies, lent a sauce to our plain repast which neither wine and bitters, catsup, nor any of the provocatives and seasonings usually resorted to, could have given. There was one thing, however, which was running in my mind all the while, and which I could not understand - those apparently half-contemptuous and ill-suppressed laughs of

Small, and his calling young buck " poor doe !" I grew wiser before I had been a month upon the prairies, and learned the full meaning of conduct which I then thought sneering. He was laughing, in the first place, to see me pack an entire deer into camp when our utmost necessities were more than supplied by less than a quarter of the animal, and among the Texan hunters the term " poor doe" is applied, regardless of gender, to any deer that may happen to be lean. Small, no doubt, thought me lamentably ignorant of the ways of that portion of the wide world in which he moved with so much credit, as indeed I was ; and what was still worse for me, I had taken his honest and well-meant smile and accompanying chuckle for tokens of derision and open effrontery.

By the time we had finished our meal it was near dark, and a dense fog was rising upon the little creek, the banks of which we had chosen for our camp. My clothes were wet, my blankets were wet, the grass was wet, and the air was damp - a prospect by no means pleasant to one who, up to that time, had always been the possessor of shelter and a bed. To complain, however, would have given Small another opportunity to indulge in one of his quiet chuckles ; so I put as good a face upon the matter as was possible, spread my wet blankets upon the still wetter grass, and after rolling myself up. resigned myself, as well as I could, to the circumstances. My friends, all of whom had some little experience in " out-door" life, were huddled around me, and made themselves exceedingly merry and facetious at my expense ; but all their seeming indifference to the damp and disagreeable position we were placed in I then thought assumed, and I did not believe that one of them thought of obtaining any sleep. For myself, I would have freely staked no inconsiderable sum that not the most skilful professor of animal magnetism who has ever lived, even old Mesmer himself, could have got a single wink of sleep out of me that night ; but, while reflecting upon the impossibility of the thing, I absolutely fell into a sound slumber, as refreshing as though I had been upon the best bed in the world. Once or twice in the night I was awakened by the yelping and howling of a pack of sneaking, hungry wolves, drawn close to our camp, doubtless, by the scent of the deer 1 had killed. Otherwise my sleep was uninterrupted.

Early the next morning, while preparing our breakfast, Major Howard and Mr. George Van Ness, who had started from San Antonio the preceding day, rode up to our camp. Van Ness I had formerly known in Vermont, but had not seen him for several years. These gentlemen were on their way to Austin, on business requiring much expedition. They proposed that we should go no farther than the St. Mark's that day, and promised that they would meet us there early the next morning, and go with us to San Antonio. Although we had intended travelling to the Guadalupe, a river some distance beyond the St. Mark's, we now altered our plan and consented to their proposal. Without stopping to partake of our meal, to which we invited them, they gave their jaded animals the spur, and were soon lost to sight beyond a roll of the prairie. After finishing our breakfast, we saddled our animals and rode slowly towards the beautiful St. Mark's. By two o'clock we reached a deserted military station, near the head springs of that stream - the rendezvous appointed by our friends in the morning - and there encamped for the night. During the day, Small pointed to several large clouds of smoke rising at some distance ahead of us, and a little to the left of our route, remarking that they proceeded from Indian fires ; but at the time we thought but little of them.

Than the country in the vicinity of the St. Mark's one more lovely and fertile can hardly be found. The stream rises at the base of a low chain of mountains, a short distance from the spot on which we were encamped. The St. Mark's is not formed by a series of small branches or creeks, but takes its rise and character from its fountain head, which is a large spring of clear, cool, and most delicious water, inexhaustible in its supply. But a few hundred yards below this spring we find a deep and swift-running river, stocked with a variety of fish. The bottoms on either side are wide, well-timbered, and of the greatest fertility, admirably adapted to either cotton or corn. Once clear of the bottoms, the traveller meets with gently-undulating prairies, affording nutritious grass for pasturage, and a good depth of soil of fair quality. The climate is dry and salubrious, and the settler finds himself occupying lands equally fertile, yet exempt from the bilious fevers and debilitating agues so prevalent upon the Colorado, the Brazos, and other muddy and sluggish rivers of Eastern Texas. The vicinity of the Guadalupe, another swift and clear stream which we passed on the ensuing day, resembles that of the St. Mark's, and could emigrants but enjoy facilities for getting their produce to market, no finer or more healthy openings exist in America.

We passed the night at the St. Mark's with no incident worthy of relation, other than an alarm among our animals, which were hobbled and staked close by our camp. We started up and found our beasts gazing, with pricked ears, into a darkness which to us was im- penetrable. Thinking they were probably frightened by a family of noisy screech-owls, perched in a neighbouring tree, or else by a more distant pack of howling wolves, we only examined their fastenings to see that all were secure, and retired again to our blankets. From circumstances that transpired afterward, I have little doubt that Indians were prowling about our camp, and that they were either seen or scented by our beasts. It is a well-known fact that the horses or mules of a white man are invariably terrified at the approach of Indians, can scent them at a most astonishing distance, and, from the circumstance that they always give the alarm, are considered excellent sentinels.

At daybreak Howard and Van Ness, now accompanied by Colonel W. G. Cooke, made their appearance. They had started from Austin at nightfall, and as the distance to the St. Mark's was some forty miles, had had a hard night's ride. The only rest they made was while we prepared a hasty breakfast ; when this was over we saddled our animals and pursued our journey. The distance to San Antonio was still forty miles - not a severe day's ride for fresh and good horses - but as some of those in our company were but indifferent nags at best, and much travel-worn, the march proved extremely slowr and fatiguing.

We had proceeded but a short distance, before Colonel Cooke, thinking we had lost the shortest trail to San Antonio, separated from our party and struck off across the prairies to the left at a brisk canter. He was hardly out of sight before we saw, rapidly approaching us, at a distance of some mile or mile and a half, a body of about sixty horsemen, whose character it was impossible to distinguish. Apprehensive at first that they might be Indians, we drew up in a body, with a small mot* of timber close by to which we could easily retreat, and awaited their approach. It proved to be a party of Texans that had been out some four months on an expedition against the Camanches. So long had they been absent from the settlements that they really bore the strongest resemblance to Indians. Their huntingshirts had become torn and greasy, their hair long and matted, and their faces, from long exposure to the sun and only an occasional acquaintanceship with water, imbrowned nearly to the color of mahogany. They, too, had at first mistaken us for Indians, and under this belief had approached at no inconsiderable speed : but on nearing us they discovered their mistake, and slackened their gait to one more in consonance with the feelings of their jaded animals.

Almost the first question asked by the leader of the party was, whether we had encountered Indians. On being answered in the negative, he stated that two of his comrades had started in advance, the afternoon before, for the purpose of hunting ; that one of them, a man named Moore, had been killed and scalped by Indians ; that his companion, Hunter, had also been wounded by the same gang, yet was enabled to make his escape, and was then safe among his men. His arm was broken by a ball, and on his name being mentioned he rode up to the advance with his wounded limb in a sling. Hunter gave us a description of the spot where he and his companion had been waylaid, and thought it singular, as we had passed directly along the trail, that we had not discovered the mutilated body of the latter. His own horse was untouched by the volley fired by the savages, and being a strong, fleet animal, brought his master off in safety. He described the Indians as being on foot, armed principally with guns and rifles, and numbering about seventy. At the conclusion of this short interview, the Texans hurried off in the direction of the St. Mark's, to find and bury their unfortunate comrade, while we continuec. our journey towards San Antonio. That we had made a most fortunate escape the day before, by halting at the St. Mark's, was now evident enough. Had we kept directly on we should, in all probability, have fallen into an ambuscade and been cut to pieces. It was now also rendered evident that the alarm among our animals, the previous night, was occasioned by Indians, and Mat Small's remark, that the smoke we had seen in the afternoon arose from the signal-fires of a party of hostile savages, received direct confirmation.

But we had other matters than the past to speculate upon. Our little party was now seven strong, all well armed if not well mounted, and we doubted not being able to give a good account of ourselves should the Indians attack us. All that was necessary was to keep a bright look-out, and not fall into an ambuscade while passing the different mots and ravines scattered along our trail. But where was Colonel Cooke all this while ? He was ahead, perfectly unconscious of the close proximity of Indians, and might be cut off and killed without our knowledge, or without our being able to render him the least assistance. This reflection caused us great uneasiness, and induced us to push forward with the hope of overtaking him.

Up to this time I have neglected to draw my friend Falconer's picture as he sat for it that day upon his mule. Hogarth might have done it justice ; I shall only pretend to give a rough outline. Although belonging to and reared in an excellent family, and accustomed to all the comforts of the polished life he had but recently left, he easily assimilated himself to the hardships and privations incident to a wild border life. The luxuries and good things of an English fireside he appeared entirely to have forgotten - the plain and simple substantials of a prairie alone occupied his attention. While at Austin he had elected himself our commissary, steward, cook - in fact, our purveyor-general - had provided a tea-kettle and coffee-pot for the general use, besides a tin cup for each man's private accommodation. With an eye to the general welfare he had also purchased a ham of goodly dimensions, besides coffee, sugar, tea, salt, and red pepper. Mrs. Bullock, the kind and attentive landlady of the best hotel at Austin, had added something like a bushel of fresh-baked biscuit to our other stock, so that we were most amply provided for. For all these nic-nacs Mr. Falconer had kindly furnished transportation on his mule, a rickety, lame, selfwilled, long-eared brute, of stature not exceeding eleven hands. If we can judge of a mule's obstinacy by the length of its ears, the animal in question was certainly endowed with a portion far exceeding that of any other of the species it has ever been my good or bad fortune to meet. And then, as I have before stated, she was lame of one leg, and had naturally a mincing, shuffling, hobbling gait with the other three. In addition to all this, the mule had a way of stumbling and tumbling down peculiarly her own - a habit which she indulged in to an excess absolutely inconvenient, besides being at times somewhat dangerous. To offset all these rare qualities, she was as hardy as a grizzly bear and as tough and untiring as a hound. The latter quality might not have been constitutional, but rather the result of the rigid system of economy she displayed in the disburse- ment of her strength and speed, regardless alike of blows, spurs, cuffs, and whacks. This is a very nice point, and one upon which I dare not hazard a decision. She is now dead, poor thing, and some two months after the events I have just recorded made a meal for many a half-starved man ; but even at this time I cannot help laughing at her eccentricities.

Now, upon the back of this animal I have been describing, on the morning in question, was perched my friend Falconer. He was arrayed in a costume somewhat resembling a New-England washing-day dinner, inasmuch as it was picked up here and there. I have before stated that Mr. F. had kindly offered to give transportation to our commissariat, and this offer he fulfilled. We now have him seated upon his mule, with a double-barrelled smooth bore upon his shoulder, while around and underneath him, tied on and hanging in festoons, was a general assortment of a little of everything. There were a ham, a tea-kettle, a wallet of biscuit, half a dozen tin cups, a gourd, a pair of pistols, and a coffee-pot, all occupying prominent situations immediately around him. In addition, Falconer had with him a number of books and scientific instruments, and these were arranged, here and there, among the hardware and groceries. Thus arrayed and mounted he really seemed more like a gipsy or a travelling tinker than a member of the best society in London and a distinguished barrister of that city.

We had proceeded some five miles, scattered Indian file along the trail, and were growing more and more solicitous in relation to Colonel Cooke, when the sharp report of a rifle was heard some hundred yards ahead, in a narrow skirting of timber which fringed the banks of a small stream. Van Ness, who was in advance, and had reached the edge of the timber, immediately reined up his horse and drew a pistol from his holsters. Major Howard was jogging along next to Van Ness, but at least forty yards behind him, Falconer was close to Major Howard, while myself and companions brought up the rear. The first impression with all, on hearing the report of the rifle, was that the Indians had formed an ambuscade for the purpose of cutting us off.

" Where ?" said Mr. Falconer, drumming his spurless heels into his mule's sides, and evincing a zeal truly laudable to be one of the first in the brush that all felt confident was about to take place.

Frank Combs, who was well mounted, came dashing by at the top of his horse's speed. This induced Falconer to redouble his kicks and exertions to force his mule along, and he had really induced the animal to make some show towrards a species of Canterbury gallop as I came up with him. Just as I had reached him, and was about to pass, down went my unfortunate friend's entire establishment, strewing the road, for some ten feet, with mule, Falconer, and sundries. Although in what a Kentuckian would call " all sorts of a hurry," I could not help stopping for a moment to survey the scene and ascertain whether my companion had injured himself. There, side and side, reposed a volume of Lord Bacon and a Kentucky ham - there too were a thermometer and a teakettle - tin cups, biscuits, fishingtackle, a barometer, wallets, pistols, knives - scattered about in enviable confusion. I can only liken the scene to the promiscuous and miscellaneous appearance of the furniture of a house, saved from a fire and thrown helter-skelter in the street. At any other time,- after finding that my companion had sustained but little personal injury, I should have laughed outright at the ludicrous tumble ; as it was I could not restrain a smile as Falconer hurriedly scrambled upon his feet. By this time the secret of the rifle-shot was fully explained by the appearance of Colonel Cooke from the timber. It seems that he had become lost in endeavouring to find a shorter trail, and discharged his rifle as the only method of making his whereabout known.

Having assisted the fallen Falconer in repacking and remounting his mule, we renewed our ride. At noon we reached the Guadalupe, without having met with any farther incident. Here we rested an hour or two under some shade trees, while our animals were feeding and fighting prairie-flies close by. Towards sundown we arrived at the Salado, a stream which sinks in the sand and rises again some distance below the regular crossing-place between Austin and San Antonio. It was on the banks of this river that Captain Caldwell, with a small number of Texans, defeated the army of General Woll in 1842. After allowing our animals an hour's rest, we resumed our tiresome journey, and about eleven o'clock passed the old and ruined Alamo and entered the outskirts of San Antonio. From every house some half dozen Mexican curs would jump forth and greet us with a chorus of yelps and barks, and before we had fairly entered the town the canine hue and cry was general. Those who have for the first time entered a Mexican town or city must have been struck with the unusual number of dogs, and annoyed by their incessant barking ; but the stranger soon learns that they vent all their courage in barks - thev seldom bite.

It "was nearly midnight before I could find a restingplace for myself and horse. Late as it was, the sound of a violin drew me across the plaza, or principal square, and up one of the narrow streets leading to it. Poor Power, in one of his plays, used to say that " wherever you hear a fiddle you are pretty sure to find fun ;" in the present instance I found a fandango. As I entered the room, which was destitute of other floor than the hard earth, and lighted by two or three coarse tallow candles, a single couple were shuffling away, face to face, and keeping time to a cracked violin. Ever and anon the woman would sing a verse in Spanish, both herself and male partner standing until its completion. Then they would shuffle away again, using a species of break-down, negro step, entirely devoid of grace and ease. Another verse and then another shuffle, and the dance was over. The woman was as destitute of beauty as an Egyptian mummy - in fact, if dried, would have made a very good counterfeit of one of those curiosities ; her partner was even more ugly. Some half dozen slovenly, badly-dressed Mexican girls were sitting upon benches at either end of the room, while an old woman in one corner was selling paper cigars and vile whiskey.* I passed through an open door, leading into a back room, where were a small party of men and women betting at monte. I lost a couple of dollars " just to get the hang of the game," as the facetious Sam Slick would say, and then retired to my lodgings. Here I had no other bed than my own blankets and the hard earth floor ; if anything can be harder than such a couch I have yet to find it, and my

* This was but a fandango of the lowest order. The reader must not suppose that there is no better society among the Mexicans of San Antonio than I found at this place.

Thoughts On Floors

experience has been rather extensive. A plank really seems to have a " soft side," and those who have tried both, as I have, will say that there is a species of " give," if I may be allowed the expression, to a stone floor ; but a Mexican, hard-trodden, earth floor has a dead solidity about it which fairly makes the tired bones ache again. The experience of the few past days now came like an unpleasant panorama across my mind, and I began to reflect that I had a rough life in perspective ; but as every one said " it was nothing after getting used to it," I resolved to " go ahead."

Description of San Antonio. - Fondness of the Women for Bathing. - Climate. - Irrigating Canals. - Fruits. - The old Spanish Missions. - Objects for which they were constructed. - The Alamo. - Concepcion. - San Juan. - San Jose. - La Espada. - Bowie and Crockett. - Church of San Antonio. - - Anecdote of General Cos. - Mexican Merchants from the Rio Grande. - Return to Austin. - Incidents upon the Road. - A Texan Leather Stocking. - An Adventure. - Out-tricking a Party of Indians. - Another Night at the St. Mark's. - Fruitless Chase after Camanches. - Hog-wallow Prairie. - Arrival at Camp. - More of the Camanches. - Plain Supper and good Appetite. - Insight into Astronomy. - Once more at Austin. - A Fall in the Dark. - Speculations while falling. - Broken Bones. - Dancing Days over, or the " Jig up." - Consolation under Misfortune.

BY far the most pleasant as well as interesting town in Texas is San Antonio, or Bexar as it is frequently called by the inhabitants. The San Antonio River, which heads a short distance above the town, meanders through its streets, and its limpid waters, by the different turns it makes and the irrigating canals, are brought within a convenient distance of every door. The temperature of the water is nearly the same all the year through - neither too hot nor too cold for bathing - and it is seldom that a day passes in which all the inhabitants do not enjoy the healthy and invigorating luxury of swimming. I say all - for men, women, and children can be seen at any time in the river, splashing, diving, and paddling about like so many Sandwich Islanders. The women in particular are celebrated for their fondness for bathing, and are excellent swimmers.