Umatilla County, Oregon - Chapter 40: Umatilla County, Oregon, 1882 (part 1 of 5)

Chapter 40: Umatilla County, Oregon

Umatilla is one of the north counties of Oregon, Klickitat and Walla Walla counties in Washington Territory being separated from it only by the Columbia river and 46th parallel. The summit ridge of the Blue mountains marks the line of division between it and the north east county of the State, known as Union; the bordering counties to the south and west being Grant and Wasco. Its greatest length is about 140 miles from north east to south west; transversely it is 80; and includes within its limits 3,225,600 acres, or 5,040 square miles. Much of this is grain land of the fines quality, while the balance is divided between timbered mountains, large tracts valuable for grazing, and considerable towards the river that is practically valueless without irrigation. Acres by the hundreds of thousands, as fine for agricultural purposes as a reasonable man could wish, lie along the western base of the Blue mountains, whose characteristics are elsewhere described in this work. Much of it is yet open to occupation, and unrivaled opportunities are here offered for the settler to make a home where civilization and the locomotive have preceded him. The Umatilla Indian reservation contains thousands of these valuable acres.

The main watercourses flow from the Blue mountain springs in a general northwesterly direction to the Columbia. These with their tributaries give a never-f tiling supply of pure water, with power almost unlimited. Wells of pure, living water can be found almost anywhere at a dej)th of from fifteen to sixty feet. Walla Walla river and the Tumalum, with Pine creek their principal tributary, run through the northern end and pass into Walla Walla county. Umatilla river flows north west from the mountains to the Columbia at Umatilla City, receiving on its way the waters of Wild Horse, Cottonwood, McKay, Butter and Birch creeks. Willow creek enters the Columbia further down ; and the north fork of John Day river skirts the southern boundary.

Rainfall At Umatilla City

This table is no criterion for the county, as the rainfall gradually increases from the river to the mountains, until the fertile foothills are reached, where the amount is about three times that given above.

Area 5,040 Square Miles Year

In 1876 N. A. Cornoyer enumerated the Indians as follows : On the reservation: Walla Wallas, 140 ; Cayuses, 344 ; Umatillas, 145 ; Total, 629. Columbia River Indians not on the reservation: Walla Wallas, 95; Umatillas, 130; Total, 225. They had 1,500 acres under cultivation, 8,000 horses and 2,000 cattle. There has been no material change since then.

Early Settlement

The first settlement of any kind in Umatilla county was the Catholic Mission, established on the Umatilla above Pendleton, by Bishop A. M. A. Blanchet, Father J. B. A. Brouillet and Mr. Leclaire, November 27, 1847, two clays before the Whitman massacre. This was the actual founding, but for several months previous they had been living at Fort Walla Walla, and negotiating with the Cayuses for land upon which to build the mission. After the horrible massacre at Wailatpu, they were unable to do any missionary work; and January 2, 1848, Bishop Blanchet left for Vancouver with Peter S. Ogden and the rescued prisoners. Father Brouillet and Mr. Leclaire remained at Umitilla, in accordance with a promise made to the Cayuses to stay with them as long as they and the Americans did not go to war. On the nineteenth of February, 1848, the Cayuses went out to fight Oregon volunteers, and the next day Father Brouillet and his companion went to Fort Walla Walla, and about three weeks later to Willamette valley. The Indians being displeased, burned their house and destroyed the property left behind them. This ended the first settlement in Umatilla county.

The first actual American settler was Dr. William C. McKay, son of the celebrated Tom McKay, and grandson of Alexander McKay who came to Oregon in 1811 as a partner of John Jacob Astor, and perished soon after in the massacre of the Tonquin's crew at Vancouver island. Dr. McKay was born and reared in Oregon, and it was his familiarity with, and confidence in this region that led him to make a settlement. After this difficulty with the Cayuse tribe had been adjusted a few

Americans, and Hudson's Bay Company French, came to this section to locate. The majority of them selected choice spots on the Walla Walla, Touchet, Tukannon, and Mill Creek, while Dr. McKay located on the Umatilla river at the mouth of Houtama, or McKay creek. This was in the fall of 1851. The French settlers were chiefly in the Walla Walla valley, and not more than one or two, if any, were within the limits of Umatilla county. The great respect and regard entertained by the Cayuses for Tom McKay had, in a great measure, been conferred upon his son, and Dr. McKay was welcomed bv them and received favors that would have been denied other Americans. He was looked upon as a Hudson's Bay Co. man, though he was born in Oregon, educated in New York, and had always identified himself with the Americans. This fact saved his life and that of several others a few years later. In 1851 an Indian agency was established on Umatilla, opposite the present town of Echo, by Dr. Anson Dart, Superindent of Indian affairs for Oregon. E. Wampole was installed as agent, and was succeeded the next year by Thomas K. Williams, and he by R. H. Thompson. The last named gentleman resided at the Dalles, and placed Green Arnold as his deputy atthe agency. This station was known as Utilla, and in August 1851, a post office by that name was established there, being on the route between, Dalles and Salt Lake. A. F. Rogger was appointed post master. These were the only settlements in 1855 when the Indian war drove all Americans from the country east of the Cascades.

In common with scores of others, Dr. McKay visited the Colville mines in the summer of 1855. His property was left in charge of Jones E. Whitney, who had came with his wife in the emigration of 1854 and had lived with the Doctor for a year as his partner. In the fall he started on his return from Colville, accompanied by Victor Trevitt, now living at the Dalles, and two Hudson's Bay French. They were several times stopped by Indians, but Dr. McKay represented Trevitt as a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Co., and they were not interfered with. When they reached the settlement of Brooke, Bumford and Noble, at Wailatpu, it was deserted, and while wondering at it, Hoivlish Wampo head chief of the Cayuses, rode up and informed them that the Americans had all gone to the Dalles, but that some people were up the river. [For a full description of the state of affairs in this region at that time, see chapter XVIII.] They jjroceeded up the river where they found a number of French settlers, among whom were Mr. Pambrun, Mr. McBean and a Catholic priest. Next morning the chief sent his brother with McKay and Trevitt as an escort, the two Frenchmen remaining at the camp. The Dr. found his place deserted by Whitney and his wife, the house door broken in, his property destroyed and his cattle gone. They remained there two days and had a big talk with the Cayuses, who were very sore about the sale of their land. They did not go to war as a tribe, but many of the young warriors joined the hostiles. Umhowlish, Stikas and others advised them to leave at once, as the feeling against Americans was so bad it was unsafe even for McKay to remain. They therefore departed for the Dalles as secretly as possible, passing the deserted agency as they went. McKay's place and the agency were both destroyed, and thus ended the second settlement of Umatilla county.

Final Settlement

The Indian war lasted two years, and at its close a few Americans came back, nearly all of them going to Walla Walla, where a military post was established. Green Arnold returned to the Umatilla, and settled at the mouth of Birch creek; a few miles below Pendleton, in 1857. Whitney also returned, and settled on a claim adjoining Arnold. He had selected the location before his hasty departure two years before. John R. Courtney and a brother settled in the meadows below the old agency and were followed by half a dozen others. A sporting man named Crabb located a mile and one-half below Pendleton, where the road from the Dalles to Walla Walla crosses Umatilla river. Here he opened a saloon for refreshment of travelers. He soon disposed of the business to Alfred Marshall, who lived there for years, the place being known as Marshall's Station. It was dignified by being the first county seat, was for a short time called Middleton, and is now generally known as Swift's. In 1858 Thomas K. McCoy settled on the Tumalum three miles from Milton, where his family has resided since 1859, and Tom Ireland opened a hotel for travelers in 1859 where Dalles road crosses the Walla Walla, near Milton, now known as Cole's crossing. This place was occupied in 1860 by Elijah Bun ton, father of the notorious Bill Bunton. In the spring of 1860 Ulysses Jarred settled with his family on the river five miles above Milton, and in July S. P. Whitley and family located three miles below him. These two gentlemen are now residents of Milton. A few other locations were made in 1859, and 1860 by Americans, the majority of whom were not men of family and did not become permanent residents. Add to these a few Hudson's Bay French and half breeds, living with their Indian wives, and we have all the residents of the county in 1860.

The rush of miners in 1861, and consequent demanded for food, led to the occupancy of choice spots along the river bottoms. It also caused the establishment of hotels or stations, along the routes of travel, where they crossed the various streams. That year thousands of cattle were driven here and grazed on the juicy bunch grass that covered this whole region. In the spring their festering carcasses covered the hills and fouled the pure water of the streams. The hardships of that winter have been already described. In 1862 the Powder river mines being discovered, the tide of trade and travel turned through the Umatilla country and across the Blue mountains. Auburn sprang up in the new gold fields and in a few months contained a population of 3,000, the principal business street being a mile in length. Other mining camps appeared on Powder and Burnt rivers and their tributaries. Much fine agricultural and grazing land was found near by, far more than had ever been supposed to exist in that region, and many settlements were made for the purpose of raising supplies for the miners. Gold was discovered on Granite creek and John Day river, a great rush of people was made to that region, and the town of Canyon City sprang up like magic. Many settlements were made on the choice lands along that stream. Regular communication was established between Dalles and the John Day mines, while those on Powder river were chiefly supplied from Walla Walla. All of these things led to more settlements along the streams of Umatilla county, both for farming and stock purposes.

At this time all of Oregon east of the Cascades belonged to Wasco county. A glance at the map will show how ponderous and unwieldy it was, embracing more, than half of Oregon. When formed, the farthest settlement to the east was at the Dalles and it was organized with that place as the county seat, with all the "wilderness " to the east and south added to it. The impossibility of people in the new settlements going so far to transact official business was evident. If they were to enjoy the benefits of a government, it must be one of their own and accessible. The Powder river settlers, where the largest population was, and where the need of a government was the most urgent, sent a petition to the Legislature, asking for the creation of a new county to be called Baker. The petition was presented on the ninth of September, 1862, by O. Humason, Representative from Wasco, and was referred to a special committee of three. These gentlemen thoroughly investigated the question, and became convinced that at least two new counties were necessary; for a seat of justice on Powder river would not benefit the people of Umatilla or John Day rivers, while one west of the mountains would be of no advantage to those on the other side. They therefore reported two bills, one for Baker, to embrace all of the state east of the summit ridge of the Blue mountains, and one for Umatilla, to contain the John Day and Umatilla settlements, the county seat to be with the latter. The bills passed, the one creating this county being as follows :

Skction 1. Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the State of Oregon. That all that portion of Wasco county, beginning in the middle of the channel of the Columbia river, opposite the mouth of Willow creek; thence up the middle of the channel of said river to the point where the 46th parallel of latitude crosses said river; thence east along said parallel to the summit of the Blue mountaius; thence south west along the summit of said mountains to the divide between the middle and south forks of John Day's river; thence north west along said divide to its intersection with the south fork of John Day's river; thence down the channel of said river to its junction with the north fork of said river; aud from thence northerly along the ridge dividing the waters of John Day's and Willow creek to the place of beginning, be and the same is hereby created and organized into a separate county by the name of Umatilla county.

Sec 2. That all within the said boundaries shall compose a county for all civil or military purposes, and shall be subject to the same laws, rules, regulations, and restrictions as all other counties, and entitled to elect the same officers as other counties of this state.

Sec 3. The county seat of Umatilla county shall be temporarily located at or near the Umatilla river, opposite the mouth of the Houtamia, or McKay creek, at what is known as Marshall's Station, until the same shall be removed by the citizens of said county as provided by law.

Sec 4. Until the next general election, the following named officers are hereby appointed to discharge the duties of their respective offices as prescribed by law, viz: County Judge, Bichard Combs; County Clerk H. H. Hill; County Commissioners, Thomas McCoy and John B. Courtney; Sheriff, Alfred Marshall.

Sec 5. The county court is hereby authorized to appoint all county and precinct officers not herein before provided for, and to fill all vacancies until the next general election.

There was then no regular town within its limits except the mining camps on John Day river. For this reason the county seat was located in the center of that portion which promised to contain the largest population, and on the great route of travel from Dalles to Walla Walla, and from the Columbia to Powder river. At this time an effort was being made to start a town on the Columbia, where goods for Powder river could be landed and forwarded to their destination, thus saving time and distance over the Walla Walla route. It was expected to become a rival of Walla Walla; to be, in fact, the "Sacramento of Oregon," and door- to the mines. A point eight miles below the mouth of Umatilla river was selected and a town called Grand Ronde Landing was laid out. This was followed early the next spring by a new town just above the mouth of the Umatilla, which was laid off and christened Columbia, though the name was soon changed to Umatilla Landing or Umatilla City.

Thus before the county was fairly organized, two new candidates for the seat of justice had sprung up. In the struggle between the rivals on the river, Umatilla Landing prevailed, and Grand Ronde resigned in its favor. The discovery of the Boise mines that winter and the great trade that at once sprang up with southern Idaho, gave an impetus to Umatilla as soon as it started that caused a busy, thriving city to appear in a few months where had been but a wide waste of sand. Umatilla City, as the only real town, wanted to be the county seat, but there was no election till 1864, and no way could be found to secure the prize. The county court met at Marshall's Station and fully organized the county by the appointment of all necessary officers. The name of the place was changed to Middleton, and an unsuccessful effort was made to build up a town. J. W. Johnson was appointed county judge to succeed Richard Coombs, and S. Hamilton took John R. Courtney's place as commissioner. The government was not in good working order until May, 1863, when a special meeting of the court was held and the first record of its proceedings kept. The officers, after appointments made at that session, were :

The court also ordered the construction of a log jail, 12x20 feet, with one cell and a jailor's room ; but took no steps towards building a court house. The assessment roll was made out that summer, and showed a total of $353,702, upon which a tax of $1.70 per $100 was levied. The number of people living in the new county at the time it was set off from Wasco was small, and probably more than half of them lived on John Day river and Granite creek, now in Grant county. At the June election in 1864, there were cast in the county 748 votes, and allowing four people to each voter, which was a liberal proportion as the population consisted largely of men without families, it would give a total of 2,992*. From this must be taken about 1,000 for Umatilla City, which sprang up after the county was created and drew its population chiefly from without its limits, and about 1,500 more for the miners on John Day and Granite creek, leaving within the present limits of Umatilla probably not more than 400 people. A majority of these were settlers on Umatilla river and the Walla Walla and its tributaries. The increase of population during 1863 was chiefly in Umatilla City, which became a commercial rival to Walla Walla. Quite a number of new settlements were made for farming and stock purposes, and at the end of the year there were but few choice spots along the river bottoms that had not been taken.

As the election approached, in June, 1864, political circles were agitated by the question of how the new county would cast its first vote. Lines were sharply drawn between the Democratic and Union parties. The question was settled by a choice of the former ticket by a small majority. The county officers chosen were:

3Vote for Representative in Congress - Democratic, 396 ; Union, 352. The county seat question had received considerable attention prior to the election, and though no call was made for an expression of opinion, many votes were cast in favor of removing it to Umatilla City. At the July meeting of the commissioners, J. W. Johnson requested the Board to locate a site for county buildings. They postponed action until next term, on the ground that they had under advisement the question of canvassing the votes for county seat. Mr. Ford opposed the canvass because the question had not been legally before the people, and the votes cast were of no more value than if they were an expression of opinion as to the altitude of Mt. Hood. Such was decided to be the opinion of the board, and the count was not made. Umatilla City was not to be thwarted in its object, and made application to the Legislature. This resulted in the Act of October 14, 1864, calling a special election for the first Monday in March, 1865. This practically settled the matter, for by another act the same day Grant county was created out of Umatilla and Wasco, taking all south of

*McCormick's Almanac for 1864 gives the total population of the county as 1,000, which is much too small, as there were more than that in the mines alone.

the 45th parallel including the John Day and Granite creek mines, thus leaving the voters of Umatilla City in a majority. Union was created out of Baker, north of Powder river the same day. The election was duly held, a majority of votes were cast for removal, and the commissioners held their first meeting in Umatilla City April 3, 1865. Two months prior to this a house and lot had been purchased in Middleton for county purposes for $403.50 which were now sold for the same sum. In April, 1865, $2,100 were paid for a court house at Umatilla, and $1,440 for a jail which was completed in in September, 1866.

County Seat Removed To Pendleton

In 1868 the fortunes of Umatilla City were on the wane, owing to a decline in her trade with the mines. On the contrary the agricultural section was prosperous, and increased in wealth and population continually. It had been discovered that the hills along the base of the Blue mountains were extremely productive for grain, and thousands of acres of it had been taken up. During the two previous years the number of population in the north and east had increased to such an extent that they largely outnumbered those of Umatilla City. From the vicinity of the present towns of Weston, Milton and Centerville it was a long journey to the county seat, and the people there were desirous of having it moved nearer to them. There were enough residents on Umatilla river to defeat an attempt to remove it to the extreme north east corner of the county, which prevented an effort for that purpose and resulted in a combination to have it located at some central point on that river. M. E. Goodwin had a land claim just below the mouth of Wild Horse creek, on the edge of the Indian reservation, which offered a good site for a town, and an effort was made to secure the county seat at that point. The advocates of removal applied to the Legislature and secured passage of the Act of October 13, 1868, providing that at the next general election the county clerk should place in nomination "two candidates for county seat of Umatilla county, to wit: the present location, Umatilla Landing, as the one candidate; and upper Umatilla, somewhere between the mouth of Wild Horse and Birch creeks, as the other candidate, to be voted on at said election." If a majority favored removal, the commissioners were to call a special meeting and appoint three persons to locate the site for county buildings, and give an appropriate name to the new county seat. The Act provided that the existing county buildings be used until new ones were ready for occupancy, the time not to exceed a year. The election occurred on the third of November, less than a month after passage of the Act. The county officers were divided on the question, being governed by their personal interests, as was every one else. The vote was close, 394 being cast for upper Umatilla, and 345 for Umatilla Landing. The commissioners appointed J. S. Vinson, James Thompson and Samuel Johnson to locate and name the county seat. They selected Goodwin's location and bestowed upon it the name of Pendleton at the suggestion of Judge G. W. Bailey, in honor of Hon. George H. Pendleton of Ohio. The town was laid off and liberal offers were made by the proprietors to induce people to locate there. Mr. Goodwin, Judge Bailey and a few others who were interested in the new town, advanced money to build a court house, in order to secure the removal as quickly as possible. At that time there were only two buildings: the private residence of Judge Bailey and a little shed in which Goodwin kept hotel. When the committee reported in January, 1869, that they had located the seat of justice on land donated by Mr. Goodwin on sections 10 and 11, township 2 north, range 32 east, Judge Bailey ordered the county officers to remove their offices and records to Pendleton. He rented his dwelling house for their offices, reserving the cellar for a jail. All but the Treasurer obeyed the order.

Suit was brought by the people of Umatilla to compel them to return. Judge J. G. Wilson decided that the removal was premature, as Umatilla was the proper county seat until new buildings had been erected. The decision was rendered early in March, and the officers were compelled to cart their records back again. Meanwhile work was rapidly progressing on the court house, and as soon as it was at all habitable, the officers piled their records into a wagon one quiet sabbath morning and departed for Pendleton, thus avoiding an injunction. Again suit was brought by citizens of Umatilla, who endeavored to have the removal declared illegal on the ground that the Act was void because of indefiniteness. They argued that "Somewhere between the mouths of Wild Horse and Birch Creek" was so indefinite a description that citizens were unable to tell what locality they were voting for. The court held that the descrip- tion was sufficient to show the general locality desired by voters, and that the Act had amply provided for its definite location by the three commissioners. The result was a complete triumph to Pendleton, and a sad blow to the waning fortunes of Umatilla Landing.

The court house at Pendleton which had been so hastly built by the citizens was paid for by the county, and in the summer of 1870 a new jail was erected in the court yard. A fire proof vault was added to the court house in 1876. The county steadily increased in population, and advanced in prosperity, as is amply shown by a table of property valuations given on another page. Pendleton became quite a city, and the new town of Weston began to spring up in the northern end of the county. The elections of 1870 and 1872 gave the following result :

County Election June 6, 1870 County Election June 3, 1872

In 1874 Weston had advanced to such proportions that it aspired to possess a county seat. The little town of Milton had appeared to the north east of it, though as yet containing but a few houses, and the rich farming lands in that section had become occupied by a numerous and prosperous population. The question of a division of the county and creation of a new one with the county seat at Weston, was agitated

In 1876 an independent county ticket, composed of both Democrats and Republicans, was run against the regular Democratic nominations. Three were elected, but they were Democrats none the less, and the Republicans gained no offices.

4Vote for Representative : Democratic, 738 ; Republican, 503. In 1877 the Nez Perce Indian war in Idaho was the cause of considerable uneasiness to the people of this region. There were over 600 Indians on the Umatilla reservation, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, and Umatillas, while some 200 Columbias lived in the vicinity, refusing to reside there. It was feared that these latter, and possibly the reservation Indians, might commit depredations. Maj. N. A. Cornoyer, the agent, held a council with chiefs on the reservation and they were profuse in expressions of friendship and peaceable intentions. He then selected about twenty-five of them and held a grand council in the Pendleton court house on the twenty-sixth of June. This had a good effect upon both Indians and citizens. The chiefs then went to Walla Walla and held a council there. This ended all apprehension as far as reservation

Indians were concerned, but doubt of the others still remained. Hostilities were nearly precipitated with them by a "scare," arising from this feeling of timidity. The Columbias had a favorite grazing place for their horses upon which a man had recently settled, and Wolsack, the head chief, dropped a few hints to him in order to scare him off. He did not go at once ; but one evening hearing some guns fired by boys out hunting, he came to a sudden conclusion that it was a bad place to stay in. He jumped upon his horse and rode in haste to warn settlers that the Columbias had broken out and that Wolsack had told him that he could not control his braves. The " scare" was complete. A company was formed at the head of Butter creek to protect settlers ; but it was soon found that they needed no protection, and the " true inwardness" of the whole affair was discovered. [For war of 1878, see further on in this volume.]

In 1880 there were three tickets in the field, Democratic, Republican, and Division, the last being unpolitical and having its candidates pledged to support a division of the county. Only two of these were elected, the county commissioners, and they were candidates on the regular tickets who had been endorsed by the Divisionists. The election resulted as follows :

On the fifth of January, 1881, in the jail yard at Pendleton, occurred the first legal execution of a white man. Edward, or Arthur, Murphy, was hanged by Sheriff Martin for the murder of T. D. French, near Heppner, the previous May. Murphy was herding a band of sheep for S. S. Snyder, and allowed them to trespass upon French's field. The sufferer complained to Snyder, and another herder was sent to take charge of the animals. That night French was approaching the camp, when Murphy seized a pistol, went out to meet him, and after a few angry words shot him dead. For three days the murderer was hunted, and then came into Heppner and surrendered. He narrowly escaped lynching before being taken to Pendleton. In November he was convicted and sentenced, and in January suffered the penalty of his crime. The only other white man ever sentenced to be hanged in this county was one Brown, who was convicted of murder in 1866. His sentence was commuted to life imprisonment, and he soon after made his escape from the penitentiary. A man was lynched in 1864. [See history of Umatilla City.]

The one local question that has agitated the people of Umatilla for the last four years is its division into two or three separate counties. Its present area is 5,040 square miles considerable larger than the state of Connecticut, enough for five good counties were it thickly settled by an agricultural people. As it is, however, its population of about 10,000 is no greater than one should contain, and its assessed valuation of some $3,000,- 000 is none too much upon which to raise the revenue for a proper and satisfactory administration of a government. Looking at it in this light it would hardly seem advisable to increase the number of offices and with them taxes necessary for their support. But there is another side to the question, which when properly considered, may counterbalance these objections. Umatilla has three centers of population and wealth. One of these is the rich agricultural region in the extreme northeastern portion, including the towns of Milton, Weston, and Centervill; another is Pendleton and the country tributary to it, including the reservation, which when settled, will be a source of revenue sufficient to justify the desired division; the third is the fine stock and agricultural region about Heppner and along Willow creek,in the southwestern portion of the county. That these have interests to a degree separate and antagonistic and seem to have been designed by nature for three distinct seats of government is admitted by all. The question then becomes simplified to one of financial ability.

The country in and about Weston, Centerville and Milton has now a taxable valuation of about $900,000. This has been nearly doubled in the last few years, and the same rate of increase must for a time continue, so that within five years at most it will be able to maintain a government as expensive in every particular as the one now enjoyed. The location of a county seat at one of the three towns; the construction of the railroad from Walla Walla; the increase in the value of land; and the development of thousands of acres yet unoccupied, will all combine to make it financially, strong. In the portion that would still be left in Umatilla, with Pendleton for a county seat, there is now a valuation of about $1,500,000. It includes the track of the O. R. & N. Co. from Umatilla and the towns that are springing up along its route, as well as the lands being rapidly developed on both sides of it. The bulk of the reservation, also, is within its limits. That its valuation will be doubled within five years is hardly a matter of doubt. The third section contains about $600,000 of property, chiefly land, cattle, horses and sheep. Stock raising is its chief industry, though in portions of it farming is largely carried on. It is rapidly increasing in wealth and population, and with a small slice from Wasco would in a few years form a fine and prosperous county.

The first effort made to divide Umatilla was in 1874, in the interest of Weston. That town was then much smaller than at present, and the fertile lands that lay on the surrounding hills were not as valuable or as well cultivated as to-day, yet Weston desired a county seat to aid its struggles for advancement, trusting to the future for the necessary population and wealth. The effort was fruitless. Four years later the Leader was started in that place and "Division of the county" became its battle cry, and the slogan has never ceased to sound. For two years this doctrine was preached, and as the campaign of 1880 came on its friends began to make a stir. The people of Heppner also desired a county seat to aid them in building up a town. A convention was held in Pendleton, April 7, 1880, at which it was decided to nominate a ticket irrespective of party, the candidates to pledge themselves to work for a division of Umatilla into three parts. Only two of these were elected, the two county commissioners, one of whom was also on the regular Democratic ticket and the other on the Republican. The Pendleton people then called a mass meeting in that place on the tenth of July, to consider the question. This was changed to a convention of delegates from each election precinct, with an understanding that the action of the convention should not be binding unless the county was fully represented. When assembled it was found that many parts were not represented at all, and the people of Pendleton repudiated the whole affair. The other delegates then prepared a petition to the Legislature, and sought to have an act passed, but unsuccessfully.

During the next two years this subject was much discussed, and as time for the Legislature to meet again approached, they began to make combinations. The question entered largely into the county election, especially for the offices of Senator and Representative. Petitions were prepared both for and against division and sent to the Legisture, while the newspapers of Pendleton and Weston kept up a war of editorials and paragraphs. Each charged fraud in obtaining signatures, and that John Doe and Richard Roe, as well as the tombstones of the cemetery, figured too largely among names attached to the petition. In this there was nothing new; county seat contests have developed peculiarities of that nature since time immemorial. There is something so fascinating and so demoralizing about a struggle of this nature, that a groceryman who would scorn to measure his thumb in a gallon of molasses, will sign the name of a deceased friend to a petition and chuckle with delight. The three factions all sent representatives to Salem to watch their interests and hobnob with the worthy legislators. A bill was introduced by Representative Ben Stanton, to create the county of Hill with with the temporary county seat at Weston. The name was subsequently changed to Thurston. The line of division was made to include within its limits nearly all the agricultural laud north of Umatilla river, including the best part of the reservation, and running within a few miles both north and east of Pendleton. Such a line was vigorously opposed by many who were inclined to favor separation on a more equitable basis. To make the matter worse, Representative J. B. Sperry introduced a bill to create the county of Coal, including all west of Butter creek. This left to the original organization but a narrow strip through the middle. The people on Butter creek were nearer Pendleton than Happner and desired to remain in the old county, besides this their land lay on both sides of the stream, and to make the creek a dividing line would subject them to the annoyance of having their farms lying in two counties. The fight between the three factions waged warmly in Salem, complicated by the senatorial struggle. The Pendletonians sought to prevent division, while the other two parties each worked to get its bill through first, satisfied that but one could be successful. They both passed the House, but too late to have them go through the Senate in regular order. All efforts to have them taken up under a suspension of the rules failed, and the lobbyists returned home disappointed. The matter must now lay over two years, and the probabilities are that at the end of that time the population and wealth will have so far increased as to remove the financial objection, and then a division will be made with more satisfactory and equitable boundary lines.

The town of Milton is situated on Walla Walla river, in the extreme north east corner of Umatilla county, and but a few miles south from the line of Washington Territory. It lies just within the southern edge of the great Walla Walla valley, and on the line of road now being constructed from Walla Walla by the O. R. & N. Co.

Public School, Milton .Umatilla Co. Or. Erected 1879 Seventh Dayaoventist, Milton.Or.Erecteq 1877

The narrow gauge branch from Whitman Junction, built two years ago, passes within a mile of the town. By it all freight is now received, and large quantities of grain are forwarded. In its life of ten years Milton has become a town of considerable prominence, and the next decade will probably witness a still more substantial growth than the last. Two good general stores indicate the amount of trade that now seeks this place from surrounding farms and the mountains. When a new county is created in this region, Milton expects to press its claims to the county seat with prospect of success. A V flume belonging to the Oregon Improvement Co. runs through the town and dumps at the Railroad station. It is twenty-one miles in length, with a branch in the mountains seven miles long, and was built in 1881. Large quantities of wood and lumber are sent down it daily.

W. S. Frazier settled on a portion of the town site in the fall of 1868, buying the land claim of Thomas Eldridge who had taken it up about four years previously. William McCoy located on the river just below him in 1869. In 1872 Mr. Frazier laid off a town site and gave a man named Woodward one and one-half acres of land to come with his wife and keep hotel. He also sold John Miller fifteen acres of land and water power for $125, and that gentleman began the erection of a mill which was completed in 1873. It has three run of stones and is still owned by Mr. Miller. The same year H. L. Frazier put up a barn to accommodate the traveling public. The hotel built by Woodward now forms par.t of the residence of Ulysses Jarred, who settled in the county in 1860. Woodward sold it to I. W. Quinn in the fall of 1872, who pretended to keep hotel and had a small stock of goods. S. P. Whitley, an old settler of 1860, is now proprietor of the only hotel worthy the name that Milton has ever possessed. In the spring of 1873 M. V. Wormington came to town and erected the first residence on the town plat. The same year William McCoy laid off a portion of his land as an addition. A petition was prepared in 1873 for the purpose of obtaining a post office, and by general consent the name Milton was inserted, and thus the infant village was christened. In 1874 Riley Koontz opened a store, and with a blacksmith shop, a number of residences and a school house, the village began to present quite a thrifty appearance. From that time on Milton has grown slow and steadily. A planing, shingle and chop mill has been added to its industries, built by Tolbert & Brown, and now owned by W. S. Brown. A fine two story frame school house, 45x55 feet, stands at the extreme lower end of town, built in 1879, and costing as it now stands, about $6,000. The small school house erected on the same ground in 1872, has been remodeled and converted into a church. It belongs to the Methodists and United Brethren, and had previously been used by all denominations for church purposes. The Seventh Day Adventists built a church two years ago. In addition to these the Campbellites, or Christians, Baptists and Southern Methodists hold occasional services.

Milton may be briefly summed up as follows : two general stores, two drug stores, one variety store, one millinery store, three saloons, one hotel, one restaurant, three livery and feed stables, one meat market, one shoe shop, one barber shop, four blacksmith shops, one undertaker's shop, a picture gallery, flour mill, planing, chop, and shingle mill, a hall, flume, railroad station, school house, two churches, post office, ex-

The old Thomas and Ruckles road across the Blue mountains, the route of travel from Walla Walla to Baker City and the Boise mines, crossed Pine creek abou ta mile below the present town of Weston. At that point a stage station was established as early as 1863, and a hotel was kept by Taylor Green as a stopping place for teamsters, packers, emigrants and travelers. In the spring of 1866 T. T. Lieuallen bought the claim of a man who had settled on a portion of the town site. The little shanty he had built Lieuallen used for a chicken house, and erected for himself a good farm residence. In the fall of 1868 he persuaded a man named Abell, who was living at Richards Station, near the present town of Centerville, to come to this place and open a store. Lieuallen donated the ground for his building and gave him a cash bonus. In a few months his goods were taken by the sheriff. Jesse Melton bought the little shanty Abell had built, and converted it into a hotel ; it is now used for a butcher shop. Asberry Lieuallen had built a little house for a dwelling, and in the sj)ring of 1869 T. T. Lieuallen bought it and placed in it a stock of goods. It is now used for a smoke house by S. A. John. A school house was built that year on the ground now occupied by their fine edifice ; the old building now forms part of a saloon and billiard hall.

With one dwelling, a shanty hotel, a small store and a school house, Mr. Lieuallen called upon his neighbors to baptize the embryo city. About a dozen of them met at his store one day and the question of a name was brought up. He had selected Westen, and that name received about two-thirds of the votes, some of them favoring Prineville, Sparta, and McMinnville. The spelling of the name Westen was after Mr. Lieuallen's original way of doing things, but it was inadvertently spelled with an "o" in a petition to the postal department that fall, and thus it became and remains W^eston. When a post office was secured and located in Lieuallen's store, the stage road was changed to run through the village, and thus it became a regular station. Another store was added that year by John White and E. D. Seeley. Its history for the next few years is one of a steady and permanent growth both in business and population. In 1874 it began to covet the county seat, and endeavored to secure it, without success. Its efforts to procure a division of the county have already been given- The people of Weston are confident when that is accomplished the voters will locate the seat of justice with them. Should such a result not follow, the business of Weston is upon too firm a footing and improvements are too far advanced for the place to suffer or be materially retarded in its growth thereby.

At four o'clock Thursday afternoon, July 22, 1875, fire was ignited in a barn by some boys who were carelessly playing with matches. In a short time seventeen buildings on Main and Water streets were burned, embracing more than half the business of the town. The loss was estimated at $15,000. This was a severe blow, but the citizens had too much confidence in the future to be discouraged, and the result was that soon no traces of the disaster could be found, and more business men and new enterprises came here to locate. In December, 1878, the Weston Leader began publication, and the same fall a stock company was formed to build a steam flouring mill. The stock was bought up by Proebstel Bros., who completed the mill and began operating it with two sets of burrs. The Weston Steam Mills have now four run of stone, and complete j)urifying machinery. The Proebstel Bros, still own and operate them. About the same time Bamford & Bro. built the planing mill, which they still own. Weston contains the most substantial business buildings and finest residences in the county. The first brick was erected in 1874 by Saling & Reese, an addition being made in 1878. In 1880 J. E. Jones built a fine brick store building, the second floor being fitted up for a lodge room. There is another large brick building belonging to Mr. Saling. The large and handsome school house was erected in 1878 at an expense of $4,500. In 1881 the school was graded into four departments, including a high school, giving Weston the best educational system in the county. Until then higher branches had only been taught in private schools. In 1876 the Episcopalians built a neat church, and in 1878 the Baptist denomination erected a good house of worship. The Cumberland Presbyterians have an organization. A new city hall has been built of brick this year, citizens receiving stock for contributions of money, materials or labor.

Weston may now be summed up as follows; three general stores, two hardware stores, two drug stores, two millinery stores, one furniture store, one saddlery store, one variety store, onejewelry store, four saloons, two hotels, one restaurant, one bakery one meat market, two agricultural implement ware houses, two livery and feed stables, one barber shop, one paint shop, two boot and shoe shops, three blacksmith shops, a brewery, planing mill, flouring mill, city hall, school house, two churches, many pleasant dwellings, and a population of about 600. It is pleasantly situated on the banks of Pine creek, surrounded on all sides by large and well improved farms, of the fine grain land for which this region is noted. Blue Mountain Station, on the branch line of the O. R. & N. Co. from Walla Walla, is within three miles, and it is the expectation of citizens to have the road pass through this place. They are prepared to donate right of way and depot grounds for that purpose.

By act of October 19,1878, Weston was incorporated, with boundaries "commencing at the northwest corner of May's addition to the town of Weston; thence running east 75 rods; thence south to the southeast corner McArthur's addition to the town of Weston; thence west 65 rods; thence due north 80 rods; thence west 120 feet; thence due north to the place of beginning." The officers are a mayor, six aldermen, recooder, and ex-offieio collector, and a treasurer. The annual election occurs the first Monday in December. The charter was adopted at an election in November, 1878. The officers elected in 1879 were: Mayor, T. J. Lucy; Recorder, D. P. Dwight; Treasurer L. S. Wood; Marshal, F. B. Prine; Aldermen, Charles McMorris, J. Proebstel, J. Bamford,

John Hartman, G. W. Proebstel and W. R. Beckett. In 1880: Mayor, J. E. Jones; Recorder, A. Meacham; Treasurer, L. S. Wood; Marshal, D. D. Earp; Aldermen, Charles McMorris, H. McArthur, P. A. Worth, J. W. Miller, G. W. Proebstel and John Hartman. In 1881: Mayor, J. S. White; Recorder, W. R. Jones; Treasurer, L. S. Lacy; Marshal, H. Woods; Aldermen, J. W. Miller, Charles McMorris, H. Mc- Arthur, F. M. Pauly, Jacob Proebstel, P. A. Worthington.

Weston Lodge No. 58, I. O. O. F. - Date of charter, July 1, 1876. Lodge organized July 20, 1876. Charter members and first officers: George B. Young, N. G.; Fred Peebler, V. G.; A. B. Hendricks, R. S.; William Russell, T.; J. I. Mansfield and G. W. Mansfield. Present membership, thirty-nine. Time of meeting every Thursday night. Officers for 1882: S. A. Barnes, N. G. ; F. M. Johns, V. G.; A. L. Powers, S.; E. M. Purinton, T.

The town of Centerville is situated on Wild Horse creek, across that stream from the Umatilla reservation. It is three miles from Weston, a high ridge dividing the rival towns. As far as the eye can reach in all directions are seen those fertile hills and plains that are now recognized among the finest grain producing lands in the west. Finely cultivated farms lie on all sides but one - the reservation. . That is as barren of improvements as when settlers first came here, and its fertile acres which might support hundreds of people and produce thousands of bushels of grain, are but the grazing ground of cattle and Cayuse ponies. The settlement of the reservation would give Centerville a forward impulse and make of it a place of far more importance than at present. This time, is confidently looked for by its citizens.

The site of Centerville was known for years as Richards Station, a point on the emigrant road to Walla Walla. The place was kept by D. A. Richards, who had a post office located there for the accommodation of settlers. He undertook to make a town, to which he gave the name of Bellville. In 1868 he made an arrangement with a man named Abell to manage things for him, but that gentleman was soon after persuaded to go to Pine creek and help build a town at that point. In 1869 the post of- fice was discontinued, one having been established at Weston. The next effort to build a town was made by Thomas J. Kirk. In the spring of 1878, he laid out Centerville near the former site of Richards Station, and that summer a large agricultural hall, meat market, drugstore, general store, hotel, livery stable, harness shop, blacksmith shop, school house, and a number of dwellings were built. A few short weeks saw a town spring up and make its presence felt by those who had been struggling along for years. Its appearance made a trio in this corner of the county, all interested in securing a division and the creation of a new one. When this is done Centerville promises to make a strong fight to secure the county seat. A railroad from Walla Walla to intersect the Baker City Branch above Pendleton is surveyed through this place, and as it will undoubtedly be built within a year or tvro, the prospect before the town is highly flattering.

Already it contains five general stores, two hardware stores, a drug store, furniture store, jewelry store, saddlery store, two millinery stores, an agricultural implement warehouse, three saloons, two livery stables, a hotel, restaurant, barber shop, meat market, two blacksmith shops, steam planing and feed mill, school house, two churches, post office, express office, and a population of nearly 300. With such a start, certainty of a railroad, prospect of an opening of the reservation, and possibility of a county seat, the confidence of her citizens does not seem to be groundless. They have been erecting a $6,000 school house this year, and improvements are going steadily on, while the sound of the saw and hammer salute the ear constantly. The M. E. denomination has here the finest church building in the county. It was erected in 1880 at an expense of $2,500. There are about sixty members. The Christians built an edifice about the same time at an expense of $2,000. They have some seventy members.

The county seat of Umatilla lies on the river of that name, just below the mouth of Wild Horse creek, a point well chosen for beauty of location and commercial advantage. It is on the edge of the reservation, a few acres of which have recently been granted by the Indians and added to the town site. It is at present terminus of the Baker City branch of the O. R. & N. Co., from Umatilla City, and forwarding point for all freight and passengers across the mountains. Stages run from here to Boise City and thence to Kelton on the Central Pacific road. Others leave for Heppner, and for Walla Walla by the way of Centerville, Weston and Milton. It is not only a county seat, but the business center for a large section of farming and stock grazing land. Its assessed valuation is more than one-third that of the whole county, and its business men are among the most substantial and enterprising to be found in Eastern Oregon.

The manner in which it was founded and named has been related in describing the county seat removal. In April, 1869, besides Judge G.W. Bailey's residence, Pendleton contained a little shed hotel kept by M. E. Goodwin, a small log store by Lot Livermore, both on ground now occupied by the Pendleton Hotel, and the court house partially completed and partially occupied by the county officers. From that time to this its growth has been steady and permanent. No disasters have occurred to check its progress or paralyze its industries. In the summer of 1869, the county officers who were compelled to reside here, built houses, and these were followed by a blacksmith shop, meat market and an improvement in hotel accommodations. A post office was located here, and mail was brought by stages running from Dalles and Umatilla across the mountains, connecting for Walla Walla at Cayuse Station. In 1870 a jail was built, and several business houses were added that and the following year, so that in 1871 the town contained four stores, two hotels, several saloons, two livery stables, one barber shop, one harness shop, a market, several blacksmith shops, a school, the county buildings, the post office, an express office, about thirty dwelling houses, and a population of over 200. An effort was made in January, 1875, to secure a woolen mill. The Pendleton Woolen Manufacturing Co. was incorporated by Jacob Frazer, Jeremiah Despain, Henry Bowman, Elijah Welch, and John S. White, but the project was not carried out.

The Pendleton Mills, whose flour is to be found throughout this whole region, were built in 1875 by W. S. Byers, at an expense of $15,000. It had then two burrs, but now has five and two sets of rollers, giving it a capacity of 175 bbls. per day. It is run by water taken from the river, furnishing almost unlimited power. The capacity will soon be increased to 500 bbls. daily. W. S. Byers & Co. are the owners. That year, also, the East Oregonian began its prosperous career, and in every way the town was improved. A steam saw and planing mill had been added to the . industries of the place, which wTas burned on the thirteenth of October, 1876, entailing a loss of $2,500 upon Luhrs & Watson, its owners. The steam mills of J. H. Sharon & Co. are now doing an immense business in sawing, dressing and working lumber into sash, doors and furniture.

In 1876 Pendleton Cemetery of two and one-half acres was fenced and improved, money being subscribed by the citizens. The progress made by the town during the first eight years of its existence is revealed by the following statement of its condition in 1877 : three general stores, one drug store, two furniture stores, one hardware store, two hotels and boarding houses, three saloons, one brewery, two meat markets, two livery stables, one wagon shop, two blacksmith shops, one flour mill, one planing mill, one newspaper, one school, two churches, four lodges, post office, express office, stage office, about fifty dwellings and a population of 332. Another paper, the Independent, now Tribune, was started in 1878. The Indian "scare" in 1877 and the war in 1878 have been fully described elsewhere. The efforts to secure a railroad have been given in the chapter on "Transportation." In the fall of 1880 citizens agreed to secure the right of way from Umatilla to Pendleton for the O. R. & N. Co., and gave a bond of $10,000 as security for the agreement which they fulfilled in due time. Completion to this point of the road followed last summer, and trains began running daily in September. The grading towards Baker City is progressing rapidly, and next year Pendleton will probably have railroad and telegraphic communication with that point. The completion of the Oregon Short Line a year later will place the town on a direct line of railroad from Portland to the Eastern States. In the spring of 1880 a hand engine and a hook and ladder outfit were purchasod, and Protection H. & L. Co., No. 1, was organized. An engine house was built, the money being subscribed by citizens.

In August, 1880, a public meeting was held to consider the question of incorporating. A committee was appointed to draft a charter and petition to the legislature. This resulted in the Act of October 25, 1880, incorporating the "Town of Pendleton," with boundaries "commencing at the north-east corner of Jacobs' addition to the town of Pendleton ; running thence north to the north bank of Umatilla river ; thence down said bank of said river until it strikes the north line of section ten in township two north, range 32 east ; thence along said section line to the north-west corner of the north-east quarter of said section 10 ; thence south through the center of said section to the north bank of said Umatilla river ; thence easterly up and along said bank until it strikes a line continued from the westerly line of Arnold and Haley's addition to the town of Pendleton ; thence southerly on said Hue to the line of the Umatilla Indian Reservation ; thence easterly along the line of said reservation to the east line of Jacobs' addition ; thence northerly along said line to the place of beginning." The government was placed in the hands of a mayor, six councilmen, recorder, marshal, treasurer, and commissioner of streets. The city election occurs annually on the third Monday in December. The town was j)rohibited from creating a debt of more than $1,000, or levying a tax to exceed five mills on the dollar. The first election occurred December 30, 1880, and resulted as follows : Mayor, Lot Livermore ; Councilmen, John Watson, S. Rothchild, M. E. Folsom, Jeremiah Despain, W. M. Beagle, J. H. Raley ; Marshal, B. F. Gray ; Recorder, J. A. Guyer ; Treasurer, G., W. Webb ; Street Commissioner, N. Daughtry. The officers chosen December 18; 1881, were : Mayor, Lot Livermore ; Councilmen, W. F. Matlock and G. W. Webb ; Recorder, M. F. White ; Marshal, P. R. McDonald ; Treasurer, I. Hathaway ; Street Commissioner, H. Bowman.

In March, 1882, Pendleton Pioneer Water Works Co. was incorporated by Jeremiah Despain, J. L. Sperry, G. W. Webb, and D. K. Smith. Pipes are laid from a spring some distance away, to a reservoir near town, from which water is distributed by a main and supply pipes. Umatilla County Agricultural Association was incorporated in August, 1882, and grounds were procured and laid out, one and one-half miles from Pendleton, but no fair was held this year.

Pendleton to-day contains eight dry goods and grocery stores, one furniture store, one drug store, one jewelry store, one crockery store, two hardware stores, four variety confectionery and tobacco stores, two saddlery stores, four millinery stores, two agricultural implement houses, four hotels, two restaurants, eleven saloons, one bakery, three meat markets, four livery stables, six blacksmith shops, two breweries, two barber shops, two shoe shops, one photographic gallery, a bank, post office, express office, telephone office (line to Umatilla), stage office, two newspapers, railroad depot and warehouse, flouring mill, planing mill and factory, county buildings, city hall and engine house, sixteen attorneys, five physicians, two dentists, an opera house, three churches, a school house, a population estimated at 1,500, and an assessed taxable valuation of $1,064,165. There are a few substantial brick buildings, and cheap wooden structures that were at first erected are gradually being supplanied by more permanent and commodious brick ones. The future of Pendleton as a business town of importance is beyond dispute. At present it is the railroad terminus and has a forwarding business and a class of trade that it soon must lose ; but in their place will come a steady and continuous trade of the country tributary to the town, and when the reservation is thrown open to settlement, a majority of settlers on its vast expanse will become supporters of this place. Few inland places in the north-west have better prospects for the future than has Pendleton and the country immediately surrounding it.

The Episcopal church was completed in the spring of 1876. It is 24x36 feet, a neat frame structure, and capable of seating 150 people. A few weeks later the Methodist church was finished. It is 30x40 feet, and will hold 350 people. The citizens subscribed liberally to build these structures. The Baptist church was erected in 1878, giving, with the others, devotional facilities for a larger town than this.

Pilot Rock

The little town of Pilot Rock lies at the base of the Blue mountains, on Birch creek, sixteen miles from Pendleton. Its name is derived from a large bluff of basaltic rock bearing the same title, which serves as a land mark and guide for miles. The town was laid out in 1876 by A. J. Sturtevant, and two years later witnessed some exciting scenes during the Indian war then raging. It stands in the midst of a fine agricultural and grazing country, and is surrounded by good farms and stock ranges. Large tracts of desirable government land are still inviting settlers, and the invitation is being rapidly accepted. Mr. Sturtevant is postmaster and the pioneer business man of the town. Pilot Rock contains two general stores, a drug store, saloon, livery stable, two blacksmith shops, and a population of half a hundred. Daily stages pass between Heppner and Pendleton, carrying mail to the office here.

Echo City

This is the name of a new town growing up on the line of the O. R. & N. Co. eighteen miles towards Pendleton from Umatilla. It is on the bank of Umatilla river, opposite the old Indian agency which was established in 1851 and destroyed by Indians in 1855. This point was formerly known as Brassfield's Ferry, on the old emigrant road. A fine Howe truss bridge has been built across the river at this place by the county. The town was laid out in the spring of 1881, and a store, saloon, blacksmith shop, and feed stable were at once constructed. Later the same year a hotel and a fine school house were built. J. H. Koontz, of Umatilla, is proprietor of the town, and has this summer erected a large warehouse. Echo City now contains two general stores, a drug store, a hotel, two saloons, a livery stable, two blacksmith shops, a boot and shoe shop, school house, warehouse, post office, railroad station, and a population of fifty or sixty people. It is surrounded by many fine farms, and has tributary to it a large extent of excellent agricultural land, the greater portion of which is but just being developed. The future of Echo City as a business town and a forwarding and receiving point for freight is bright.

Foster Station

An old land mark on the road from Umatilla to the mountains is the Twelve Mile House, so named from its distance from the river. It was a favorite stopping place in the days when freight teams and pack animals lined the road. At this point the old Dalles trail used to cross the river. J. H. Kunzie, of the firm of J. R. Foster & Co., Umatilla City, laid out a town here last spring and named it Foster Station. It is on the line of the O. R. & N. Co.'s Baker City branch. He has also built a store and warehouse. A line of railroad has been surveyed from this point to Prospect Hill, seven and one-half miles north, by the Prospect Hill R. R. Co. The road is intended to convey to this place the vast quantities of grain now being raised on Prospect Farm and other large ranches in that comparatively new country.

This is the name of a town laid out as a terminus of the Prospect Hill railroad. It is to be the shipping point for products of Prospect Farm and this whole region when it is brought under cultivation. These upland plains, lying back from the Columbia about fifteen miles, have always been considered valueless by reason of the small quantity of rain. A number of gentlemen entertaining a different opinion on this point organized the Prospect Hill Co. in 1879, took up and fenced 4,160 acres of land, and began cultivating it in 1880. The large crop harvested in 1 881 settled the question of fertility of soil, and demonstrated that thousands of acres formerly considered valueless for agriculture are exceedingly fine grain land. The members of this company are J. R. Foster, C. H. Lewis, T. A. Davis, H. W. Corbett, and J. H. Kunzie. The superintendent is T. L. Moorehouse, after whom the town and post office are named. A residence, boarding house, stables, tool house, blacksmith shop, granaries and store house are now here, and upon completion of the road quite a town will no doubt spring up.

The thriving town of Heppner is situated on north fork of Willow creek about forty miles from the Columbia, and sixty by the stage road south-west of Pendleton. It lies in the midst of the most extensive sheep and stock country in Eastern Oregon, and is supported chiefly by that industry, though considerable agricultural land is tributary to it. But little land has been placed under cultivation, yet there are thousands of acres of fine tillable soil within a radius of a few miles. Heppner aspires to be the seat of justice of a new county to embrace the south-west portion of Umatilla, and perhaps a part of Wasco. Should such be created this place is the only one now suitable for a county seat. Ere the two years elapse that will intervene before a division can be secured, the development of this region will probably have so far progressed as to make such a step advisable if not necessary. Coal of a good quality has been discovered in the mountains sixteen miles south, and is being used for fuel. A branch road from the O. R. & N. Co's, line to tap this region and the coal deposits is one of the probabilities of the future.

Heppner, named in honor of Henry Heppner, its first merchant, sprang up in 1875, and in the fall of that year contained two stores, Heppner & Maddock and Morrow & Herren; a drug store, Dr. A. J. Shobe; blacksmith shop, Chase & Stewart; two hotels, A. J. Breeding and L. W. Gilmore; saloon, school house, Good Templars lodge, and several residences. Steady advancement has ^been made since that time. Moneyis plentiful, and the people make good use of it. Business buildings and residences are of a better class than one would expect to find in so new a place. A flouring mill was built in 1876, by William Beagle, making an important addition to the town, which in 1877 had acquired a population of 100. In 1879 Denny & Hewison put the mills in good running order, and have since owned and operated them. Heppner now contains four general stores, two drug stores, a saddlery store, two variety stores, two hotels, four saloons, two livery stables, an agricultural implement warehouse, two blacksmith shops, one millinery store, one hardware store, a brewery, a flouring mill, school house, Baptist church, Heppner Lodge, A. F. & A. M., a brick yard, a number of good residences, and a population of about 400. A newspaper is soon to be established.

Alkali

This is a new point on Columbia river, near the western line of the county. It is a station on the O. R. & N. Co's, road, and is becoming one of importance as a shipping and supply point for the Willow creek and Heppner country. It sprang up in 1881, and that fall had thirty houses, including a hotel, restaurant, blacksmith shop, two livery and feed stables, and three stores; considerable addition has since been made to its business, and the population now numbers about 100.

Umatilla City

The glory of Umatilla has long since departed. At one time it had not its counterpart in the whole state of Oregon. It teemed with life, throbbed with excitement and bustled with business activity. Now its eager throng has gone, and its stores and dwellings are no more, save a few that still remain to testify to the grandeur of the past. It was built upon the sand, and fell before the storm of adversity that beat upon it, and the sand that was once the foundation of its buildings, now flies about the empty streets, a plaything of the winds. The desolation is more apparent than real, however, for two large mercantile houses still remain and do an extensive merchandising and forwarding business, such as, were it a new town like many in the county, would be considered enormous, but in comparison to the business of the past is as the few grains of wheat gleaned from the field when the reapers have passed.

In the fall of 1861, before the county had been created, and when a few ranchers and stock men along the streams were its total population, Umatilla City was conceived in the mind of A. J. Kane, now a citizen of Portland. He was then working for a forwarding firm at Wallula', and became impressed with the conviction that a great trade would soon spring up with Grand Ronde valley, which could be supplied from some point further down the river. In low water boats could not ascend to Wallula with full cargoes because of Umatilla rapids, and Mr. Kane's idea was to start a landing place at some point below that obstruction. At the close of navigation in 1861, he made an examination and selected a point about eight miles below the mouth of Umatilla river. He then went to Portland and formed a partnership with H. H. Hill. At the opening of navigation, in March, 1862, they came up the river with a stock of goods

Quite a trade at once sprang up with the new settlers in Grand Ronde valley and people along the Umatilla, as well as a large retail trade with emigrants and travelers following the river road from Dalles to Walla Walla. It was made a regular landing place for the boats plying on the river. They lived and did business at first in tents, but log houses were soon brought down from Umatilla river, which gave the town a more stable appearance. A hotel business was among the pioneer industries of the place, a canvass spread on the ground serving the purpose of a table, and one dollar being charged for meals cooked near by at a log fire. Discovery of the Granite creek mines that summer added a new source of trade, and by fall they had a paying and firmly established business. The Powder river and Boise mines opened that year, reresulted in quite a number of people deciding to follow Mr. Kane's example and start in business at some convenient point on the Columbia for supplying that trade. They made preparations to begin as soon as goods could come up the river in the spring.

On the eight of August, 1862, Jesse S. Lurchin made application to the governor, to pre-empt about 120 acres of land just above the mouth of Umatilla river, being the town site of Umatilla City. He offered to sell this to Mr. Kane for $600. Being at the mouth of the river, it looked like a more favorable location for a town than Grand Ronde Landing, and would have been so were it not that the rapids interfered with navigation between the two points. A steamer could take a full cargo to Grand Ronde Landing in low water, but could only take half a load over the rapids. Mr. Kane appreciated this objection and declined the offer. The channel has since been cleared by the government. Navigation opened early in the spring of 1863, and with it came a man named Spencer, with a stock of goods, who wanted to have Mr. Kane's store house at once and go into business there. This he could not obtain, and he decided to start an opposition town at Lurchin's place. He found there an empty log cabin, one that had been built by men catching drift wood. This he occupied for a store, and laid out a town, which he named Columbia,, but which was soon known and called UmatiJ la Landing. It was the season of high water then, and people not as familiar with steamboating as was Mr. Kane thought nothing of the rapids below the town. Deceived by the high water, other parties looking for a good location passed Grand Ronde Landing and selected the new place. The people were like sheep; the tide having set in, all followed with a rush, and in a week a town sprang up at Umatilla Landing such as even it founders had not dreamed of. Mr. Kane cared more for his business than he did for a town site, and reading quickly the hand writing on the wall, abandoned the old location and moved to the new, where he opened and conducted for several years the largest business house at that place.

Umatilla Landing became in one year a worthy rival to Walla Walla. A line of stages was established between this point and Powder river and Boise, and teams and pack animals lined the road to these places. A perfect stream of travelers going and coming passed between Umatilla and the mines. Thousands of people and millions of pounds of freight paid tribute to this new city on the sands. The raw winds of the Columbia whistled around rude frame and canvas structures that formed the city, but within those walls were stored goods of enormous value, while freight in great quanti- ties was piled up on the river bank. Saloons and gambling houses with the throngs that frequented them, formed a large portion of the bulk and population, but not of the business. They were an adjunct, in those days considered a necessary one, and only flourished because of the prosperity of the city in its more substantial lines of trade. The roughest and most desperate characters in the mines made this their temporary home at times, and quarrels, with the consequent "man for breakfast" were frequent. It was a repetition of the scenes of every "live camp" since the days of '49 in California. No one expected anything else, and, in fact, the saloons were generally considered as a standard by which to judge of the prosperity of a town. It is almost impossible to realize the amount of business transacted in that city built on the drifting sands of the Columbia. There were six stores that sold an average of $200,000 of goods each per annum. In 1866, the firm of French & Gilman alone sold $500,000 of merchandise, chiefly groceries, both wet and dry. Besides these there were three or four smaller trading stands, a drug store, three hotels, twenty-two saloons, two dance houses, two feed stables, two barber shops, two blacksmith shops, and a number of other establishments. The rough element became so bad at one time that it became necessary for the citizens to caution them. In view of the work being done at that time by the vigilance committee in Walla Walla, more than this was unnecessary. A vigilance committee at the Meadows, twelve miles up the river, hanged a man in 1864, for horse stealing, a crime that was prevalent at that time. A tripod was made of three rails to serve as a scaffold. This was the only case of lynch law in the county. During the years 1864-5-6 the regular population was about 1,500, while the floating and transient element numbered nearly as many more. The county was organized before the town sprang up, and it therefore was not until March, 1865, that Umatilla secured the county seat. It was then the only regular town within its limits. By Act of October 24, 1864, Umatilla City was incorporated, with a mayor, five aldermen, recorder, marshal and treasurer. A year later the people decided that the burden of supporting a municipal government was unnecessory, and the charter was repealed by Act of December 18, 1865, to take effect June 5, 1866. George Coe was the first mayor, and Daniel French second. Judge L. L. McArthur served as recorder both years. In 1865 and 1866 Idaho mines began to be supplied from San Francisco by way of Chico and Honey Lake valley, drawing largely from the trade of Umatilla. From that time the town entered on the down grade. In 1868 the Central Pacific railroad was' completed into Nevada, and the bulk of Idaho trade followed it. This was a Waterloo to Umatilla, and her business men began to leave, but none without taking a well filled purse as a result of their few years' residence here. It was now time to commence kicking the dead lion. This was done by taking away the county seat in the spring of 1869, as has been related elsewhere. Gradually the town dwindled in trade and population until the building of the railroad to Pendleton in 1882 took the last forwarding business away. There are now two large stores, J. E,. Foster & Co. and J. H. Koontz, that have for years done an immense forwarding and commission business as well as trade in goods. Until the O. R, & N. Co.'s road was completed in 1882, the produce of Umatilla county sought the river at this point for shipment. Over 2,000,000 pounds of wool have been shipped annually by these firms for a number of years, and now wheat has begun to go out in large quantities. The building of the railroad, with its numerous stations, has taken away the bulk of shipping, and left little but a retail trade to sustain it. This, however, is quite large and will undoubtedly increase in the future, especially in view of the settlements now being made on the opposite side of the Columbia. The buildings that once composed this bustling city have been torn down to reduce the danger of fire, or removed to other points. The town now contains two large stores with stone warehouses, two hotels, two saloons, a blacksmith shop, livery stable, shoe shop, express office, post office, telephone office, U. S. Signal Service Station, steam ferry boat, school house and church, railroad depot, warehouse and cattle yards, a number of residences and a population of about 200.

The Umatilla and Pendleton Telephone Co. was organized in 1880 with a capital of $2,500, and a wire was put up to Pendleton the same year, a distance of thirty-nine miles, at a cost of $2,856. A donation of $300 was made by people interested. This was the first communication by wire with the interior of the county. The building used for a school house and church was erected in 1866 at a cost of $1,800. A six months' school with an attendance of about twenty-five scholars is now maintained.

Umatilla Mills were built in 1874-5 by J. R. Foster & Co. and H. U. Myers, who operated them until the summer of 1882, when they were sold to Mr. Hoffman, of Portland. They have two run of burrs.

War With The Snakes, Bannocks And Pah Utes

In the month of June, 1878, a large band of Bannock Indians, under the leadership of Buffalo Horn, began murdering settlers and destroying their property in the southern portion of Idaho and Oregon in the vicinity of Snake river. Buffalo Horn was a celebrated warrior, who had the year before aided the government against Chief Joseph and his band of hostile Nez Perces. His reward for such services was not in keeping with his estimate of their value and importance. He saw Chief Joseph honored and made the recipient of presents and flattering attention, while the great Buffalo Horn was practically ignored. His philosophical mind at once led him to the conclusion that more favors could be wrung from the government by hostility than in fighting its battles.

Some well-informed gentlemen believe there was a grand combination of tribes in Oregon and Washington, which was defeated and prevented from fully developing by the enegy of soldiers and volunteers. Smohalla, the Dreamer, had been prophesying that thousands of dead warriors were going to rise from their graves and aid in driving the whites out of the country. This idea was not original with him. It had been frequently used in former years by the Medicine Men of various tribes, to incite them to hostilities. The times appointed for the great uprising of defunct braves had come and gone and not a grave had opened. Like the Millerites in their days set for an end of the world, the Medicine Men ascribed the failures to a mistake in calculation and not in theory. Smohalla, during the winter previous, held many "seances," became entranced, saw visions, conversed with the dead, and reported results to the living as do white spiritualists, each time proclaiming the great and near resurrection of ghostly warriors to fight in the ranks of the Indian army. Runners were sent throughout Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Nevada by this wily Dreamer, to warn tribes to prepare for the great Indian millennium. These tribes were the Pah Utes, Bannocks, Snakes, Umatillas, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Warm Springs, Yakimas, and Chief Moses' large band of Colvilles, Columbias, Spokanes and Pend d'Oreilles. How much faith was placed in Smohalla and his dreams no one could discover, but an outbreak was looked for by those who had taken note of the passage from place to place of Indian messengers. They looked to Chief Moses, who was known to cherish hostile feelings, and whose followers were under direct influence of the scheming Smohalla, to begin the war ; and the outbreak by Bannocks was a surprise to them. They then conceived what they still believe, that it was planned to begin hostilities there, sweep north to Umatilla Reservation, cross the Columbia to Yakima, and thence, having been joined by confederate bands as they passed along, to unite with Chief Moses and carry on a protracted war, with his country as a base of operations and British Columbia as a final harbor of refuge.

Intelligence of the outbreak rapidly spread. Troops were forwarded from Vancouver, Walla Walla, Lapwai and other points, General O. O. Howard directing the operations in person. Several battles were fought, in one of which Buffalo Horn was killed. The hostiles were jcined by a large band of Pah Utes, led by Egan, their great war chief, who took command upon the death of Buffalo Horn, and by a large number of Snakes. They then numbered about 500 warriors, women and children swelling the number to 2,000. This narrative deals only with events within the limits of Umatilla county. Having been driven into the Blue mountains, the hostiles moved north towards the Umatilla Reservation. On the north fork of John Day river were many Indians from the reservation, as well as Columbia River and Warm Spring Indians. They were there ostensibly to fish and hunt and had their families with them, though many believe their object was to hold a conference with the hostiles. As soon as the agent, Maj. N. A. Cornoyer, learned that the Bannocks were coming in this direction, he mounted his horse and hastened to John Day river, to collect the scattered Indians and bring them upon the reservation. When he reached Camas Prairie he met crowds of Indian women hastening home, who told him the men were fighting on John Day river. He sent a courier to Pendleton with that information, and pushed on. Soon Indians were met, hastening home, who said that Umapine and a few others were holding the intruders in check. A little further on, Umapine himself was encountered with his little band of followers. No fighting had been done, but Indians had been in plain view on the opposite side of the river. These men were remaining in the rear to guard the retreat of women and children. Instructing them to return home as soon as possible, Major Cornoyer hastened back to Pendleton. All was commotion there. The false report that reservation Indians were fighting the enemy on John Day river had been spread in all directions, and telegraphed abroad.

Consternation and panic afflicted the people. On horseback, in wagons, and on foot the settlers hastened to the nearest town for protection. Pendleton, Heppner, Umatilla, Wallula, Weston, Milton and Walla Walla were crowded with refugees. Homes were abandoned so hastily that neither provisions nor extra clothing were provided. All settlements within reach of a warning voice were deserted in a day. Cattle and sheep men in the mountains were in a precarious situation, and many of them were killed before they could reach places of safety. Major Cornoyer gathered in all the Indians possible, including Columbia Rivers and Warm Springs, which gave him some 2,000 to take care of, the loyalty of many of whom was seriously doubted. The citizens and refugees in Pendleton made extensive preparations for defense. They dug a trench inside the court house fence, and banked dirt up against the boards, making a good fortification in the center of town. The mill was reserved as a harbor of refuge for women and children. A line of pickets was posted to guard all approaches, and full preparations were made to defend the place in event of an attack. At Umatilla similar precautions were taken. J. H. Kunzie was appointed Assistant Adjutant General by Gov. S. F. Chadwick, who had made it his headquarters. That point was selected because it had the nearest telegraph office, and because supplies for troops and volunteers were landed there. Volunteers were organized and armed by Mr. Kunzie, and the town was closely guarded. The stone warehouse of J. P. Foster & Co. was fitted up for a fort in which a final stand could be made in case of an attack. Umatilla was considered as especially exposed, as it was near this place the Indians were expected to make an attempt to cross the river. By careless handling of a needle gun in warehouse, which was crowded with women and children, it was discharged, the ball lodging in the left leg of a girl but fourteen years of age, a daughter of Capt. Cyrus Smith. She was at once taken to Walla Walla, where the limb was amputated below the knee. Similar preparations for defense were made at Heppner, Weston, Milton and other places where refugees had collected.

Upon return of Major Cornoyer to Pendleton on the second of July, confirming the news that hostiles were on John Day river, a volunteer company was organized, and the next morning started for the scene of action. At Pilot Pock they received recruit*, the company then numbering about thirty men, under the command of Captain Wilson. They camped that night in Camas Prairie, and on the morning of the fourth had proceeded but a short distance, when an Indian scout was discovered. After a long chase he was overtaken and killed. They soon after encountered a large body of Indians and were compelled to retreat with one man wounded. They were pursued ten miles, several of them losing their horses and making thei» escape on foot, being reported killed by those who reached Pendleton first. As soon as this company returned with intelligence that Indians were in Camas Prairie, and that some of their number as well as some sheep herders had been killed, another was organized by Sheriff J. L. Sperry, and started on the fifth for the front, with a company from Weston under Dr. W. W. Oglesby and another under M. Kirk. At Pilot Rock they received recruits, and were then consolidated into one command. The company was organized as follows: Captain, J. L. Sperry; Lieutenants, M. Kirk, William M. Blakely ; Sergeants, William Lamar, T. S. Furgerson, J. C. Coleman, William Ellis, R. Eastland ; Privates, W. W. Oglesby, T. C. McKay, George Bishop, S. L. Lansdon, Andrew Sullivan, A. Scott, A. A^cton, C. R. Henderson, B. E. Daugherty, J. H. Wilson, H. Rockfellow, B. L. Manning, F. D. Furgerson, M. P. Gerking, C. P. Woodward, F. Hannah, S. I. Gerking, G. W. Titsworth, S. W. Smith, J. M. Stone, H. H. Howell, W. M. Metzger, W. P. Grubb, W. L. Donalson, J. L. Smith, S. Rothchild, R. F. Warren, J. W. Saulsbury, H. A. Saulsbury, Harrison Hale, L. Blanchard, J. B. Perkins, A. Crisfield, B. F. Ogle, C. C. Townsend, J. Frazier, W. R. Reed, Thomas Ogle, Joseph Ogle, Doc. Odeer, Waller Harrison, George Graves, P. J. Ryan, A. R. Kellogg.

On the morning of the sixth they left Pilot Rock for Camas Prairie. General Howard had followed so closely upon the trail of the retreating savages that he had forced them out of Camas Prairie, and when the volunteers were taking their dinner at Willow Springs, firing and yelling announced the presence of the enemy, who were driving in the pickets and making a close race with them for camp. At the first alarm, thirteen men mounted their horses and departed in haste. The others tied their animals in a sheep corral and took shelter in a small shed. A sharp fight was maintained all the afternoon, William Lamar being killed, and S. L. Lansdon, A. Crisfield, S. Rothchild, G. W. Titsworth, C. R. Henderson, Frank Hannah, Jacob Frazier, J. W. Saulsbury, and H. H. Howell, wounded, Saulsbury twice and Hannah seven times. The Indians kept well under cover, fired from long range, and what loss they sustained could not be seen. Towards night they turned their attention to shooting the horses, but at dark ceased firing and apparently withdrew. A consultation was held, and it was decided to retreat on foot, such of the wounded as could ride were placed on the few surviving horses, and the others were put in a light spring wagon that had been brought along to carry provisions. The men were instructed to fall prostrate the instant a gun was fired, a precaution that saved them from annihilation. They had gone but a few hundred yards when the flash of a gun caused them to throw themselves upon the ground, just in time to escape a volley of bullets that went whizzing over them. Harrison Hall was too slow, and was shot dead. The volley was returned, and the Indians retreated after firing a few scattering shots. The retreat began at midnight, and before daylight they were attacked four times, having made but six miles, and lost but one man.

When Sperry's company left Pendleton, Major Throckmorton had arrived from Walla Walla, and was joined next day by troops from Lapwia, amounting in all to 150 men. The men who had fled from Willow Springs brought news of th£ precarious condition of their comrades, and Major Throckmorton instantly started to their relief. The retreating band of volunteers met the troops soon after day break about four miles from Pilot Rock, and their blue coats were a welcome sight to those weary men, who had fought so gallantly and made such a masterly retreat with their wounded comrades.

That day, Sunday, the seventh of July, the commands of General Howard and Major Throckmorton were united at Pilot Rock. Scouts reported the Indian camp to be at the head of Butter and Birch creeks, and early Monday morning Howard started to make an attack upon it. The command moved in two columns, two companies of artillery, one of infantry and a few volunteers under Throckmorton; seven companies of calvary and twenty of Bobbins' scouts under Captain Bernard, accompanied by -Howard in person. The Indians were encountered and driven with considerable loss from three strong positions, and finally fled in the direction of Grand Ronde valley. Five men were wounded and twenty horses killed. The men and animals were so exhausted by their exertions in climbing rocky ridges, that pursuit was discontinued after the hostiles had been driven five miles into the mountains. They fled before the troops with such haste as to abandon much amunition, camp material, stock, and 300 horses that were captured.