Stock Township (part 8 of 9)

Scaly leg is caused by a parasite and is decidedly contagious. This parasite works its way in between the scales of shanks or toes. It may come from another fowl or from an infected house or brooder. The scales are irritated, pushed apart and filth begins to accumulate. This filth together with the parasite working produces a disgusting appearance of the legs.

Symptoms. - The symptoms are enlargement of the feet and legs. At first there is seen only a slight roughness but the continued irritation of the mite causes a spongy substance which raises the scales until they are nearly perpendicular. In severe cases the joints become inflamed and the birds walk with difficulty.

Treatment. - Wash and brush the legs with warm soapy water, removing all scales that come off easily. Dry the legs and apply a coating of balsam of Peru or an ointment containing two percent carbolic acid.

When a large number of fowls are to be treated, make a mixture of onehalf pint kerosene and one pint raw linseed oil in a quart can. Take this to the poultry house at night and dip both legs of each affected bird into the mixture and replace them on the roost. The feathers -must not be wet as this causes the skin to blister. Repeat this in three days.

A good ointment to kill the parasite is made of one ounce of sulphur and ten tablespoonfuls of lard or vaseline. Rub this into the rough parts every other night for a week and give one application in about three weeks.

Another good method is to fill a common wooden pail nearly full of water, adding one gill of kerosene carefully so it will float on the surface. Take each fowl and dip both legs down through the oil, holding for half a minute. Repeat this in four or five days. If the shanks are feathered, care should be taken to dry the feathers as they will hold the oil, producing much discomfort by irritating the skin.

This disease is a chronic, contagious disease. Its development is caused by germs called tubercles in various organs of the body, but more often in the liver, spleen and intestines. The germ differs somewhat from the germ which causes tuberculosis in man.

If tuberculosis exists in a neighboring flock, it may be carried by birds or animals going from one yard to another or from fowls purchased from infected flocks. The eggs of diseased birds often contain the baccilli and chickens hatched from such eggs are diseased when they leave the shell and ready to infect the poultry with which they run. Pigs, cats, rats etc., may be infected with fowl tuberculosis from eating the bodies of birds which have died from this disease and these animals may infect other fowls.

Symptoms. - The symptoms begin with gradual loss of weight, wasting of the muscles and prominence of the bones. The comb becomes pale. The bird is weak and languid. In the latter stages, there is persistent diarrhea. Very often there is an inflammation of the joints which causes enlargement and lameness. Occasionally the skin over the joints breaks and they are found to be ulcerated. Many of the symptoms of this disease are very similar to those occurring with other diseases, thus making a diagnosis difficult. A microscopic analysis showing the presence of the bacillus is the best evidence.

Preventive Treatment. - The treatment is entirely preventive as the. disease cannot be cured. All birds that are known to be infected should be killed and burned. No attempt should be made to keep any of the fowls that have been exposed to the contagion. All of the manure and scrapings of the yards should be burned. Sprinkle a 5% solution of carbolic acid over the funs and wash floors and walls, feeding troughs and drinking vessels with the same. Then whitewash the whole interior of the poultry house adding 16 ounces of crude carbolic acid to each pail of whitewash. Keep the house and yards open to sun for three weeks before putting in a new flock.

Treatment. - The fowl can often be revived by holding the head under a stream of cold water after which keep it in a cool place and on a light diet.

White comb is the result of close confinement, little or no air and sunshine and absence of sufficient vegetable food. The disease is transmitted from fowl to fowl by contact.

Symptoms. - Favus begins by the formation of white or grayish spots on the comb and wattles. These spots enlarge, run together and become more inflamed until the skin of the head and neck is covered and bare of feathers. As the disease advances, the skin becomes thicker until in a few weeks it may change very much the shape of the head. There will be noticed a paleness of all mucus surfaces and a weakness in all the movements of the bird.

There are various causes for this ailment. A common one is wrong feeding. Either the chick is fed while too young, the food given is too heavy to digest or is fermented or spoiled. Other causes are chilling, low vitality in the breeding stock, careless feeding, too little or too much heat, impure drinking water, infected food and unsanitary surroundings.

Symptoms. - Chickens are usually attacked when 10 to 15 days old. They appear listless, their feathers become rough and they stand about with drooping wings. White diarrhea is soon noticed. The chick eats less and less, is thirsty, and shows signs of general weakness. The symptoms increase in severity and the chick is apt to be found dead.

Treatment. - The treatment is mostly preventive. If the hatching is done by the hen, the chicks should be put upon fresh ground, and any chicks which sicken should be immediately isolated or killed. By removing frequently to fresh ground or by frequent disinfection, the disease may be limited to a few chicks. If hatched in the incubator, it is well to divide the trays and brooders by light partitions so that the chicks will not be in one lot. If white diarrhea appears in any lot, such lots may be removed and the places disinfected. After four or five days, the healthy lots may be put together. In this way the greater part of the chicks are protected against a most common form of the disease. Begin feeding at from 24 to 36 hours of age and feed according to the formulas given for. dry bran, rolled oats and hard boiled eggs. Give neither cracked wheat nor cracked corn until chicks are a week or 10 days old. Be sure they have an opportunity to be comfortably warm at all times.

Symptoms. - Worms are frequently present in the digestive canal of fowls, particularly young chicks. Occasionally flat tape worms are found but these are not common. Chicks infected with worms go off feed and become thin and sickly. The symptoms are really those of indigestion.

Treatment. - If you suspect worms, try to remove them. Powdered areca nut 20 to 40 grains per fowl, administered in mash or mixed with butter or lard into pills is an effective remedy.

Beat a new laid egg with one tablespoonful of oil of turpentine and mix thoroughly. Give a teaspoonful of this mixture night and morning for a few days.

Divide a quarter of an ounce of areca-nut powder into four parts and give one part every morning, follow this with a dessert spoonful of sweet oil two hours after each powder.

Diseases Of Chickens-Treatment 353 Post-Mortem Examinations

When the poultry die off from an unknown cause, post-mortem examinations should be undertaken at once. By this means, alone, can the raiser ascertain with certainty what the trouble is and remedy it. It will show him what disease he has to fight and will enable him to doctor his fowls with greater success.

It is better to pluck a bird before performing an examination and to examine him in a systematic way. However, a speedy examination may be made without plucking, by hurriedly bending back or removing the breast-bone. To handle the body easily it should be nailed, breast upward, to a board. Then the performer can easily get inside the bird by cutting along each side of the breast and bending back the breast-bone.

An examination of the afflicted organs can next be made and the disease determined by observing what the various symptoms indicate that are given below. The operator should notice whether the organs diseased are spotted, enlarged, inflamed, ruptured or gorged with blood. No single organ will give conclusive evidence unless the symptoms are very pronounced, but the appearance of all must be taken into consideration. Following are the main symptoms found in each organ and what they indicate. For names of organs see illustrations.

Different sized yellowish-white spots, raised and convex, that can be easily separated from the organ; often the organ itself is greatly enlarged.

Opportunity for Profit. - When turkeys are properly handled, that is, when the unnatural losses are eliminated, there is a greater opportunity for profit in raising them than in any other kind of live stock. These unnatural losses are due largely to the neglect of raisers to follow the laws of nature in selecting and paring the breeding stock. Turkeys are more self supporting than any other live stock. From the time that they are six weeks old until winter sets in they will gain the greater part of their entire living from insects, bugs, grasshoppers, and waste grain that they pick up in their free wanderings over the range. In other words, when given sufficient range, they may be called self-sustaining foragers. The chance for profit in turkey raising moreover is gradually increasing due to the more general use of the flesh. Turkeys are used not only for roasting but a large number of the poults (young turkeys) are used for broilers. The flesh is also used to an increasing extent for salads, sandwiches and cold cuts. If the late hatched poults cannot be brought to maturity, they will sell for broilers at a good profit. The broiled poult is a very valuable dish in our large cities at the present time.

Standard Weights Of Turkeys

The main difference in the varieties given are size and color. The Bronze and the Narragansett are the largest, the Bourbon Reds and Slate are the medium and the Black and White the smallest. A great improvement has been made in the Blacks and Whites of late years, so much so in fact that they are crowding for third position.

There is a nonstandard variety besides the above, known as the Buffs. They are quite like the Bourbon Reds and might well claim their place. The Bourbon Reds are more largely grown for the market than the Buffs.

Selection of a Breed. - The Bronze turkeys are the most popular in this country, although considerable numbers of white turkeys are bred. Scarcely any preference is shown on the open market for any particular breed of turkey, but great stress is always laid upon the quality. The best grown and best fin- ished specimens of all varieties are always in demand. So we see it is not so much the breed that counts as it is the quality. One must only know how to take care of the birds to make a success of turkey raising.

Bronze Turkey. - This variety runs more to size than any of the others, perhaps too much so. Size within reasonable limits is desired and encouraged, but when it consists in a gain in length of thigh and shank, it is an increase of weight with but little value. The Bronze turkey is naturally the largest in size, the most vigorous in constitution, and the most profitable to grow. However, through carelessness in breeding they often lack their natural characteristics.

Narragansett. - For all purposes this variety holds its own with any of the rest, and should be more generally cultivated for market purposes. The turkeys of this variety have fine form in breast and body, shorter legs than the Bronze as well as a more contented nature. They average smaller but some declare that they can be made to mature faster and reach market size quicker than the Bronze. These birds are highly valued by those who grow them.

Slate. - These turkeys are about the size of the Blacks and Buffs as a rule. Some value them highly but they have not been bred extensively enough to determine their market value.

White. - This is another fine variety for all purposes. They grow to the most profitable sizes and dress well for market. With them, as with other white poultry, the pin feathers do not show as much as in the darker varieties, and their pinkish white shanks add to their appearance. White turkeys are largely grown in some localities. They are no harder to rear and have as much vitality as the other varieties. Also the Whites are more contented to stay at home than some of the others, so they are suited to farms with limited range.

Black. - These turkeys are fine for table purposes. When dressed they present a most desirable plumpness and finish. The Blacks are quite hardy. They round up nicely at an early age and mature for the early markets. Like the Whites, the Blacks are quite contented at home which makes them a desirable bird for the farmer who wishes to keep them on a limited area.

Bourbon Red. - This is a good, all around variety and some think the rich color of flesh and skin excels the others. The birds grow large, vigorous and strong with a splendid fullness of breast.

Buff. - This variety is scarce. They are very attractive when dressed and grow quickly. The average weight of the birds is several pounds less than that of the Narragansetts. Some growers in the East are paying more attention to this variety in order to determine their value.

Housing

As a rule little housing is done for turkeys except in very cold climates. They need the open air. However it is always advisable to give them some kind of shelter to protect them from the direct blast of the cold wintry winds. Where shelter is necessary a coop may be .built patterned after poultry houses with the slanting roofs. An open ventilator should be built in front, close to the roof, and this should never be closed, except in cold weather. Just enough light is necessary to show the turkeys the way to and from the roosts. The roosts are built on a level in the front of the house, with a rolling or sliding door in the rear. Turkeys should not be confined so the door should be left open all day that they may come and go as they wish. In cold, snowy weather they may be fed in the house.

Good House for Cold Climates. - A good house for the cold climate of Canada is the double inclosed apartment house. This is used for breeding stock in winter. Connected with the house is an inclosed run to protect the birds from the cold and at the same time furnish opportunity for fresh air exercise during the day. It will keep the turkeys from being carried away by all kinds of midnight marauders. Such a house is easy to build and inexpensive.

Coop for Poults. - The following makes a splendid roosting coop for poults in mild climates. It keeps out incursions of night animals. The frame should be 6 ft. long, 4 ft. wide, 5 ft. high in front and 4 ft. high in rear, back and roof boarded, ends and sides enclosed with small mesh poultry netting. Put in low perches and keep brood until they are ready to fly up out of danger. Move this coop to fresh ground frequently, thus keeping the ground pure.

Do Not House With Chickens. - Turkeys will not do well if housed with chickens. They easily become infested with lice from them and lice are sure death to young poults.

Breeding

Selection of Breeding Stock. - "Like Begets Like" is a good rule to follow in breeding turkeys. The careless selection, or »no selection at all, of breeding stock has given no end of trouble to turkey raisers. In many localities all of the turkeys raised have descended from the same original pair, no new blood having come into the neighborhood. Such a foolish procedure means the destruction of the constitutional vigor of the birds and failure is sure to follow. A wise farmer always selects the best corn or grain he has for seed ; he should exercise as much care in the selection of his breeding stock in turkeys. In fact if a person wishes to succeed in this profitable industry, he must give much care to the breeding of his birds.

Kinds of Hens to Select. - The hens to be used for breeding should be strong, healthy and well matured. They should be of medium size, well formed, strong boned, and possess constitutional vigor. Exceedingly large hens as well as very small ones are seldom the best of breeders. Vigor and stamina are absolutely necessary. The best producers are turkey hens in their 2nd or 3rd year of laying. The best young hens should be kept with this in mind.

Kind of Males to Select - It is of first importance to have a first class male serve as breeder. This, can easily be seen when we say that the male is one-half of the entire flock in the matter of breeding. None can be too good. The male should be of long body ; he should have a full, round breast and plenty of bone and should not be oversized.

are or not, for he will carry with him the influence of his breeding. If the hens are of a standard breed, the male should be of the same breed so as to keep the stock in its purity. Much better results are obtained by selecting individuals of some one of the standard varieties than by cross-breeding. Where turkeys are cross-bred, it tends to bring the weak points of both sides of the cross to the surface. Proper crosses sometimes improve the first issue but are seldom successful when followed up.

It should be remembered that the female influences the size of the offspring. Fair sized females of good health, constitutional vigor and mature age with a medium-sized male will do far better than small females with an exceedingly large male. Pairing small weakly females with large males is poor policy.

In-breeding. - Turkey hens will wander miles if necessary to pair with a male and this is one of the chief sources of in-breeding. In localities where few turkeys are raised, one male is often depended upon to serve for all the females. This too often forces him to pair with his own descendants, and causes a lack of vitality in the offspring. Turkeys suffer from in-breeding more than any other of our domestic fowls.

Practical Suggestions For Selecting Breeding Stock

1. Turkeys Demand New Blood. - Do not in-breed. It is better to send away for a new male than to risk close breeding. Turkeys must have new blood if they maintain their constitutional vigor.

2. Secure Tom in Fall. - The male should be secured in the fall that one may be sure of his vigor and health in general before the breeding season.

3. Kind of Tom to Use. - Do not think that a large overgrown male is as good for this purpose as a well-proportioned, medium sized one that is full of health, strength and constitutional vigor; one that has a broad masculine head, heavy ear carunculations and wattles, long stout shanks, large feet, and upright carriage, as these indicate health and vigor.

4. Age of Hens. - The turkey hens used as breeders should always be over one year old. If she continues to lay she will be useful until about eight years of age.

5. Kinds of Hens to Breed. - Use medium-sized hens. Avoid the smaller ones and those unnaturally large. Use only those that are healthy, strong and vigorous. Size, with large feet and legs, broad heads, and good length of body and constitutional vigor are influenced largely by the female; color and finish by the male.

8. Profitable Market Characteristics. - The most profitable market characteristics are constitutional vigor, compactness of form, and length of breast and body. Select birds having these characteristics for breeding purposes.

range, it is best to have not more than six females to one male. When the turkeys are yarded in flocks of eight to twelve, it is better to use two males. When this is done allow only one male with the hens at a time. Change the males at least twice a week.

Range. - The flock should have free range or a large inclosure after they have been mated. Without plenty of range, turkey raising is seldom satisfactory or profitable. Turkeys are by nature wild birds and wild or semi-wild habits are necessary to their best welfare. Some flocks have done well on 8 to 20 acres but only a few can be grown at a time in this way, and they require close attention and excellent care. A wide range of territory for them to go over undisturbed is of vital importance. If allowed free range they will pick up the kind of foods suitable to their needs and liking, besides getting plenty of needed exercise.

Roosting Places. - Turkeys do the best when allowed to roost in the open. They enjoy roosting in the trees or upon poles hung in the lee of some building. A good roosting place can be made by planting posts that project about 7 feet above the ground and placing upon these long poles about 2 inches in diameter. Turkeys will roost the year around in such places and fare exceedingly well unless, of course, the weather should be extremely severe. If housed at all their quarters should be roomy, perfectly clean and well ventilated, and they should be permitted to come and go at will during the day. Any house will' do, that will protect them from marauders of every kind and from the weather.

Condition of Stock and Feeding. - The breeding stock should never be allowed to become too fat. A turkey that is once fat seldom, if ever, regains its former vigor. Access to granaries and barns often produce an overfat condition. If they have a tendency to become overfat feed them boiled oats. Some corn and wheat may also be fed to advantage. Although we say they should not be allowed to become fat, we do not mean they can go without feed entirely. Do not make them go underfed. If the birds have access to the whole farm there is slight danger of their going hungry, especially if any stock is fed on the place. When they are unable to find feed it should be supplied them. When oats, barley, corn or wheat are fed it should be scattered on the ground so that they will have to pick up the grains, kernel by kernel. Avoid feeding much corn as it tends to produce too much fat resulting in infertile eggs. The breeding stock need vegetable food, grit, charcoal and some meat food. They will eat lots of charcoal and it is fine to keep them in condition.

Laying. - A properly managed hen turkey generally means one that is allowed to run her own affairs. Such a bird begins laying from the middle of March to the first of April depending upon the latitude and the season. She will lay about 3 clutches in a season, about 30 eggs in all, if a good layer. When she becomes broody she can be broken up by simply destroying her nest and putting her to laying again. Those who only have a few hens and wish to raise a great many poults should keep the turkey hen laying and rear the poults with domestic hens.

Pairing. - It is best not to allow more than one male turkey at a time to run with a flock of breeding hens as extra males only disturb each other when pairing. The pairing with the male should be complete. If it is not, the whole clutch of eggs will be infertile. Immediately upon pairing with the male the hen sets out to find a nest in which to lay her eggs. If the eggs are infertile her work is all for nothing. This shows the importance of having the male full of vigor at pairing time.

Care of Eggs. - One should watch the hen-turkey very closely to see when she lays her eggs. The eggs should be gathered regularly and carefully. They should be kept in a cool place and turned daily. If the eggs are left out in changeable weather they may lose their vitality. When the eggs are taken from the nest, eggs of some other kind, preferably large-sized china eggs, should be placed under the hen to keep her from becoming dissatisfied and changing her nesting place.

If a turkey-hen is not watched she will naturally find a nest in the most outof-the-way place she can find, such as under a pile of logs or wood, or in a heap of brush. Here she will lay her eggs and in case they are neither chilled nor carried away by wild animals, she will hatch them into vigorous poults herself. She will then take them into the fields as far away from the accustomed paths of man as possible and here she will feed and rear her brood after her own inclination. When autumn comes she will come forth with a flock of large, vigorous, young turkeys. They will be robust in development, vigorous in health, and bright in plumage. Some of the largest turkey raisers in the country desire their hens to seek their nests and rear their young in the above fashion. This is the ideal way where there is plenty of range and the farm is so situated that the hens can be given their freedom without danger to the eggs and brood. On small range the hiding of nests should be carefully guarded against.

To Prevent Wandering. - Watch the hen closely to determine her nesting place. If she selects a place that is not protected, it is well to provide a coop or box, with an opening for her to go in and out, to protect her eggs from the weather during the four weeks of incubation in case she is going to hatch them herself. Just before time for the eggs to hatch a slat frame can be placed over the hen to keep her from wandering off with the newly hatched poults. Instead of the frame it might be all right to simply nail a couple of slats across the opening of her coop. This plan will increase the size of flocks as the young poults can be watched and given better care.

Preparing Nests. - Nests should be secreted in the places that the hens would be most likely to pick for themselves - such as thick brush or a secluded fence corner. The places are easy to locate after the first season because hen turkeys almost invariably select a place to lay near their previous season's nest. An empty barrel is a fine thing to use for the purpose. Holes should be made in the lower side to let out water which might accumulate. The barrel is placed on its side and the nest within made of clean straw or hay. If the hen avoids her nest, she should be fed close in front of it. If she still refuses to use it, it may be necessary to enclose her until she is content to lay where requested.

To Prevent Hiding of Nests. - If the grower wishes to keep the hens from hiding their nests' and to save all the eggs laid, it may be necessary to confine them. By doing this he can teach them to lay and sit in his prepared nests. If the hens are confined they should be let out each day after they have laid until roosting time when they can be put back into the inclosure. Turkey hens will lay about twenty eggs before becoming broody and then if broken up will lay again. They can be set on their second clutch of eggs, if the eggs are to be hatched out by the hen turkey herself. They are usually hatched under domestic hens.

Keep Nests Separated. - In a large flock of turkeys it is often the case that two or more hens will try to nest close to each other or even together. If this is allowed, trouble is certain to follow unless they become broody at the same time and this seldom happens. Two hens sitting on the same nest will get along fairly well until about the fourth week when they will begin fussing for possession of the eggs. This generally results in the destruction of most of them.

Keeping Record of Nests. - Keeping a record of each nest is very essential. A record is easily kept and is useful for reference. It should show when the hen began to lay, the number of eggs laid, when she became broody, when the eggs hatched, etc.

Hatching by Turkey Hens. - Turkey hens are rather good mothers. They produce such a limited number of eggs it is seldom necessary to hatch them in an incubator. Turkey hens are practically a necessity for the -successful rearing of poults so they should be permitted to hatch out a few of their eggs at least. This will induce them to brood the poults.

Hatching by Domestic Hens. - If a breeder has only a few turkey hens and wishes to hatch out a large number of poults, he should keep the turkey hens laying and hatch her eggs under large domestic hens. When the turkey hen has laid from fifteen to twenty-three eggs she will want to sit but she can be easily broken up by shutting her in for a few days. After she is given her liberty she will soon begin laying again. The turkey hen can be allowed to sit on some of her second clutch of eggs; in this way many more poults can be hatched than by allowing the turkey hen to sit on her first clutch.

Hatching with Incubators. - Turkey eggs can be hatched in incubators about as well as any others but we believe that the hens themselves will produce the biggest hatch. They will hatch out more of the weak germed eggs. Unless an exceedingly large number of poults are to be hatched the other methods will probably be, the most profitable. It is the prevailing custom to hatch turkey eggs under hens, as most people have more confidence in that method.

Time Required for Incubation. - The period of incubation for turkey eggs is about four weeks, - 27 to 29 days. The eggs tliat are fresh when they are put under the hen will hatch before those that have been kept for some time.

Number of Eggs for a Sitting. - If the pairing of the hen with the torn is complete and the torn is in good condition, practically every egg laid by the hen will be fertile. Many times each egg in the nest will produce a living poult. No more eggs should be put under a hen than she can properly cover. Domestic hens of course cannot cover nearly as many as the turkey hens. It is much better to put too few under a hen than too many. If too many eggs are given for a sitting, a poor hatch is almost certain.

Two Broods in One Season. - It is natural for a turkey hen, when not allowed to sit on her first clutch, to lay a second clutch of eggs. She may find another nesting place to do this. The first clutch of eggs can be gathered, given proper care, and set. Thus by preventing the hen from sitting on her first clutch, a second may be raised in one season.

1. Dusting Hens. - Dust the hen with insect powder at least twice while setting. Never use kerosene for this. Lice are sure death1 to young poults.

2. Dust Bath. - Provide a dust bath near her nest. This can be done by working up a few feet of ground in a sunny location. If the soil is not fit it will be easy to carry a bushel of dry loam to the place. It is a good plan to throw some lice-killing powder into the dusting place. This will aid in keeping the hen free from lice.

3. Fasten Hen on Nest at Hatching Time. - Fasten the hen on her nest after she has sat about 26 days to prevent her leaving it before all the poults are strong enough. If the hen can not be fastened on her nest, she can often be prevented from leaving by throwing corn within her reach.

4. Food and Water. - Supply the hens with food and good, clean water. Have these close at hand. Corn and wheat are the best feeds for them at this time.

successfully bring up a brood of young poults until they begin to wander, then she cannot keep them together. At this time they should be given to a turkey hen. The poults will usually leave their foster mother in time anyway, to go with a brood headed by a turkey hen. Many times the poults are given to a turkey hen as soon as they are hatched. Turkey hens are generally pretty good mothers. Those that have reared a brood or two will generally care for the poults better than hens that have never reared a brood. The little poults must be taught how to eat and old hens usually give more care and attention to doing this. Domestic hens are often better, for this purpose, than turkey hens because they give the matter special attention and teach the poults how to eat when very young.

Artificial. - The artificial brooding of poults has been tried in some places. Any person that can successfully brood chickens this way can brood turkeys. Some breeders think it is safer to brood a large number of poults artificially than to trust them to turkey hens. The chief difficulty to overcome in artificial brooding is teaching the poults to eat. They will run about the brooder with their heads up, never thinking to* look down to the floor for their food, until they die from hunger and exhaustion.

Teaching Poults to Eat. - To induce poults to eat take the food between the fingers and hold it close to their bills until they take it. They will have to be fed this way many times a day for several days before they will learn to eat of their own accord and to look on the floor for their food.

Raising Poults

Caring for the poults is the most difficult part of turkey raising and requires the utmost care. One must study and then practice the things he learns, to know what to do and just when to do it. Practice makes perfect in this line as well as in others. A person must learn to use his own head to make a success at turkey raising. He should study the experiences of other breeders and learn to profit by their successes or failures. But above all he should study his own conditions. One year's actual experience in raising poults will teach him more than all he can learn from others.

No arbitrary rules can be set down for handling poults. One person will care for them one way and another will use opposite methods with equal results. Some persons give lots of freedom, others hold them in check. There are about as many different methods of feeding as there are neighborhoods where turkeys are fed.

Care of Mother and Brood. - Where the simple method of permitting the turkey hen to take care of herself and brood as her nature and inclination directs, can be followed, very little care is necessary. About all that can be done is to hunt the flock up once a day to see that they have sufficient food. If it is yet too early for them to get bugs and worms and if the grass is not green it will be necessary to feed the hen some whole corn and the poults some prepared dry grain feed. Such extra feeding, once a day, will hasten the growth of the poults even when the season is far enough advanced for them to pick up their feed.

Coops. - If the flock is to be confined, a lath or slat coop should be placed over the hen just before the eggs are hatched. This will keep her from leaving the nest too soon and also prevent her from wandering off with her young. The coop should be large enough for her to stand erect and move around. The roof may be covered with tar paper to protect the brood from the sun and rain. The floor must be clean and dry for the poults. It may be of earth or boards. However, earth is best because a natural environment tends to increase the health and vigor of the flock and helps to keep up their spirits.

Have Coop Sufficiently Large. - Be sure the coop is large enough. It should be at least from 3 to 4 feet square. Many times the restless condition of the mother hen is caused by too small a coop. She becomes irritated, tramps about and kills her young just because the coop is undersized. Do not try to use a chicken coop for this purpose. The slat coop will do for the first day or so.

Requirements for Coop. - Any coop or house that will protect them from rain and storms and is large enough will do for the hen and poults after they are taken from the slat coop. Care should be taken to have it ventilated and not too warm and damp. It should be light, clean, and entirely free from parasites. These are the essential requisites of the building which is to house them the first week or so.

Dampness Injures Poults. - The poults should be given free range part of every day if possible, but they should be made to stay in nights and on wet days ; even the morning dew will injure young poults as they cannot stand the wet.

Old Coops. - Old coops should never be used unless they have been given a thorough cleaning on all sides. A week before the coop is needed it should be painted with crude petroleum in which some naphthalene balls have been dissolved. Fill every crack and crevice with this and be sure that all odor from the preparation has disappeared before it is used, because it is harmful to the young poults.

Runs. - Early in the spring (which means until about the last of May in the Northern states, for there are generally some cold windy days up to that time) it is a good plan to provide a runway in front of the coop. This can be made from boards a foot to a foot and one-half high and about sixteen feet long. Three of these boards will make a triangular shaped pen which will protect the little poults from the winds when they run from the coop. The sun will shine into the run and make it warm and comfortable. The poults will thrive better if they are not exposed too much to cold winds. The enclosure should be located on high ground, that is well drained, so the poults will have no water to venture into, to get wet or drowned.

Sun's Rays. - While the poults are young they must never be allowed where they will get the direct rays of the sun, or it may wilt them completely. Many times when they are exposed to the direct rays of the sun they will reel as though suffering from sun-stroke and become very weak. They will then move about slowly, dragging one foot after the other, and give forth a feeble peep, which means they are near their end.

It is a good plan to make a large run, as described above, in which to place the hen and brood. The hen can step over the sides and leave the enclosure when she so desires but the poults cannot. She will not go far away from the poults. Many times, if given entire freedom with her brood, the hen will take them into the brush or into the fields, and it will be impossible to get them into -the coop again.

When the poults are stout and sturdy, the hen can be set at liberty so as to teach them how to pick their own living off the range. The poults will be old enough at 6 or 8 weeks.

Various Methods. - After thoroughly investigating the many methods used in feeding young poults, we find to what degree the general rules already given are followed. All who succeed use practically the same methods. The chief differences are as follows: first, soak some bread in milk and squeeze it dry before feeding, giving it to the poults as soon as they will eat, while others feed bread and milk in a saucer; second, some give a diet entirely of grain, while others feed practically everything they think the poults will eat.

Follow Nature in Feeding. - Too much stress cannot be laid upon the dangers from feeding unnatural food. Food that is too rich produces bowel trouble and other complications. Nc feed of any kind should be given before the poults are from 36 to 48 hours old.

1. Cracked Corn and Wheat, Oatmeal, Grit and Scraps. - Finely cracked corn or wheat or fine oatmeal, together with a little fine grit and a very little granulated meat scrap. Feed the first few days.

2. Bread Soaked in Milk. - Stale bread soaked in sweet milk. Press out the milk as much as possible. Poults are not slop eaters. Feed every hour or two for 2 or 3 days, then add a little hard boiled egg, shell and all broken fine. Caution : Never use sour milk and do not feed bread soaked in this way after it has soured.

4. Rolled Oats, Hard Boiled Eggs and Lettuce. - Rolled oats, hard boiled eggs and lettuce, all chopped fine, make a good food for the first week. This is given to chicks being raised in brooders.

5. Clabbered Milk and Onion Tops. - Make a curd by scalding clabbered milk. Squeeze as dry as possible before feeding. Mix this with finely chopped onion tops and add a little black pepper.

7. Bread, Milk, Onion Tops and Eggs. - Soak stale bread in milk and squeeze dry. To this add hard boiled eggs and onions, chopped fine. As the appetite increases, stale bread, corn meal, onion tops, rolled oats, oat meal, middlings, etc., may be added to the ration.

8. Wheat, Oatmeal and Cracked Corn. - A mixture of broken wheat, oatmeal, and finely cracked corn is fed by one of the most successful breeders in the country.

Grit. - Grit should be kept before the poults from the first. The poults cannot grind their food without it. Coarse sand is fine for this purpose, and it will supply all the grit that is needed if kept constantly on hand.

guard against fermentation in the gizzard or crop and thus aids digestion. Charcoal helps to keep the poults in good health. If given at first it should be finely ground.

Green Feed. - If the poults are not at large, they should have a supply of fresh green feed given them. If a run is used, it should be moved to a fresh spot every day.

Dried Blood. - A little dried blood is very good to mix with the feed of the poults as it takes the place of worms. Too much, however, will loosen the bowels.

Meat. - After the first couple of days it is well to add a little finely cut meat to the ration. Care should be taken that the meat is pure and sweet. Infected or tainted meat will injure the bowels of the young poults in a few hours and cause great trouble. Cooked meat is better for them than green meat. If any green meat is fed, have it finely cut and feed very little at first. Well cooked, lean beef, cut into fine pieces is very good for this purpose.

When to Feed Little Poults. - One should begin giving little poults food quite early in the morning and should feed them at frequent intervals during the day - probably from 4 to 6 times a day, the first couple of weeks.

Amount to Feed. - Give them only what they will eat willingly and no more. Be sure they have sufficient food to supply their wants but avoid overfeeding them. Overfeeding is dangerous. It has a tendency to congest and clog the bowels. Many poults are killed by overfeeding. Even too much milk curd or hard boiled egg is injurious.

Hand Feeding Important. - It must be remembered in raising poults that turkey hens are not as attentive to their offspring as domestic hens. They will not spend as much time in teaching them to eat. For this reason hand feeding is important, in fact, too much stress can hardly be laid upon it. A great deal of benefit might result if more attention were paid to practicing it. To feed by hand successfully one must take the food between the thumb and fingers, hold it to the beak of the young poult, and induce it to eat. This requires patience but it will often return benefits far in excess to the effort and time expended.

Overdoing. - The best results can never be obtained by handling turkeys like hothouse plants or cage birds. Such handling does not agree with their semi-wild nature. It is natural for turkeys to wander over the range and pick up their feed at leisure, getting plenty of exercise as they eat. In their present semi-domestic condition, they require care and attention but this should not be overdone. One must use common sense in tending them. Do not feed turkeys on unnatural foods nor overfeed them at any time. Give them plenty of fresh air and outdoor exercise. Treat them like turkeys.

Neglect. - The mistake is often made of giving poults too much care when young and then neglecting them as they grow older, perhaps at just the time they need the most attention. One enjoys caring for the "cute little poults", but the novelty wears off to their disadvantage as they grow older.

Times for Special Care. - There are two times when poults need special care. The first is when they are growing their feathers and the heat easily overcomes them. The second is in the fall when the frost destroys their natural foods on the range. Many poults are lost at these critical times every year. Care should be taken to see that they have plenty to eat at these times. While they are growing their feathers they should not be allowed in the direct rays of the sun.

1 Corn, Wheat and Oats. - As the poults grow older a mixture of coarsely cracked corn, whole wheat and hulled oats are excellent. Still later whole grains of corn should be given.

2. Hulled Oats. - A more nutritious grain for growing poults is not known than hulled oats. This can be fed even before corn or wheat is given. Oats should be hulled to avoid the injurious effects caused by the pricking and irritating portions of the hull. Plump, heavy oats that are mostly kernel should be selected for this purpose.

3. Oatmeal, Wheat, Corn, Meat Scrap. - A good ration to feed at this time is oatmeal and finely cracked corn or wheat. To this add a little finely cut meat. Have the meat pure and sweet.

As the poults grow older, the size of the grains can be increased until the whole grains are being fed. They will learn to forage more each day and the more they pick up for themselves the less food will have to be given them. However, the breeders who have the best success are those who feed their turkeys at least once a day, regardless of their age or the condition of the range. The poults should always have access to good clean water. When on the range they will pick up enough grit; however, it is always well to keep them supplied with charcoal.

Feed Wandering Flocks Once a Day. - If the poults have been confined they can be given their liberty when about two weeks old. They should be watched and fed once or twice a day. It is a good plan to get them in the habit of coming to the barn every night for food. If they miss coming of their own accord just once, they should be brought up or they will not come again. Feeding them at least once a day helps to keep them tame and makes them mature earlier.

Feeding in Wet Weather. - A continued wet spell soon deprives the poults of the bugs and worms they are used to feeding upon and also keeps them from getting enough other food. They should be fed at least twice a day under such conditions.

Avoid Poor Grain. - It does not pay in the long run to use shriveled, musty or poor grain of any description. To do so is but a loss of time and money for the results are certain to be disappointing. The greatest financial rewards are gained by those who keep the best stock and give them the best food and care. Good sound grain is the best at all times for feeding the growing poults.

Stock Turkeys. - A great many breeders make the great mistake of selling off their very best, most thrifty birds and keeping the least matured for breeding stock. They feed the birds altogether instead of separating their breeding stock from those intended for market. This practice soon undermines the vitality of the flock. The very best should be kept for producing stock and the others sent to market. Do not keep fowls for breeders that are poor and thin in flesh.

Condition for Egg Production. - To secure the best results in egg production hens should neither be too lean nor too fat. They should be kept in good condition out of laying season and during it. When out of laying season they should have food enough to maintain their physical condition and during it they must have the food suitable for egg production. Too much fat in the body comes from feeding an excess of fat producing material while the hen is not laying. While laying a hen seldom becomes overfat.

1. Boiled Oats, Wheat, Corn. - An excellent feed for stock turkeys is boiled oats, drained of all moisture, a little corn, and some wheat. This ration is one of the best known to make turkey hens lay. It can be successfully fed if the hens are kept in condition before the laying season.

Fall Feeding. - At this time of the year the turkeys must be sure to be fed. The cold weather and frosts make the natural food scarce and it must be supplied them. Many turkeys die at this time of the year from neglect. Feed must be given to begin their preparation for market. If it is not given them they will lose fat and flesh in hunting for it. A mixture of corn and wheat is the best for this purpose. Just a little should be fed at first, and the supply gradually increased until they are fed all they will eat. Feed them three times a day at the same place and they will soon form the habit of coming to that place for their food. When their longing for food is satisfied, they will cease taking such violent exercise and put on flesh.

Confinement. - The most successful turkey raisers in this country never confine their fowls to fatten them, but allow them free range and feed them all the wholesome fattening grain they will eat.

Feeding. - The main thing is to keep the turkeys growing from start to finish and have them ready for market by Thanksgiving. Prices are generally higher at Thanksgiving than the holidays. To do this the birds should be well fed when cold weather sets in and should be in robust condition. Wher the turkeys are used to grain feeding as given above, they should be given one of the following feeds :

1 Corn - Give them all they will eat of sound old corn. If new corn is fed in large quantities it often gives turkeys diarrhea and keeps them f

2. Corn, Wheat, Oats, Corn Meal, Milk. - Feed a grain mixture of corn and wheat, and a mash of corn meal and ground oats mixed with milk. Give the grain feed morning and night; the mash at noon. If more convenient the mash may be fed twice between morning and evening - about 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. Feed all they will eat up clean with a relish each time.

3. Chestnuts and Celery Seed. - If one is near a market where he can get an extra big price, it may pay him to feed the fowls chestnuts and celery seed during the last few weeks of fattening. Feeding these gives the flesh a splendid flavor and quality. They are rather expensive, however, and it will not pay to feed them unless a much higher price can be obtained for them on the market.

It requires quite as much care to kill and prepare turkeys for market as it does to raise them. If the proper time and attention cannot be given to the killing, dressing and packing for market, the birds should be sold alive. A great deal depends upon the proper marketing, so much so in fact that small growers should either dress and sell to their home market or sell to some person making a business of handling such stock. Carelessly dressed stock never commands the highest quotations, no matter how well fattened it is. Stock with bruised or torn skin or scalded stock is not wanted, except at low prices. For instance, if a box of a dozen turkeys contained just 2 or 3 damaged birds, the whole 12 would be sold at a lower figure than they would otherwise bring. Dress the birds well or sell them alive.

Killing. - It is hard enough to kill turkeys at best, so the most humane methods should be used. No food should be given the birds for 24 hours before killing them. This permits the entrails and crop to become emptied and lessens the danger of spoiling.

1. Stunning and Sticking. - The most common method of killing and we believe the most humane method, is as follows : Suspend a cord or wire from a beam or some object above the head so that the lower end comes about even with the shoulder; hang Jhe bird to this by his shanks - head downward; hit a sharp blow on the back of the head to remove all sense of pain ; reach the knife through the mouth and cut crosswise to sever the arteries in the throat and allow the bird to bleed. The head can be held downward by a weight with a short cord and a hook to fasten in the beak or nostrils. When the blow is delivered properly, the muscles of the bird will relax immediately and the feathers can be removed.

with a quick jerk or twist backward. After the neck is disjointed the head is pulled away, so that it will form an open place in which the blood may settle. It is claimed by some that the birds will keep longer when killed this way than when killed by the other methods, as there is no opening to admit the air into the body. This method requires a little practice to do it well.

Beheading. - A third way is the old method of beheading with an ax, which has been used for so many years. This plan is not as good as the other two when the birds are sent away from the home market because large markets demand that the heads be left on.

Dry-picking. - If the birds are to be dry picked, begin plucking out the feathers immediately after sticking them before the blood stops flowing. Be careful not to tear the flesh. Pull the wing feathers and the main tail feathers first by yanking them straight out. Some markets demand that the main feathers of the tail and the primaries of the wings be left on the carcass, and if that is the case they should not be removed. Remove the breast feathers next because the skin of the breast is tender and likely to tear if cold. Jerk them straight outward from the bird as it hangs, a few at a time. After plucking the breast move up over the body and then to the back. Finish on the neck. A few neck feathers are usually left on. Do not remove the entrails, head or feet. Be sure the whole carcass is absolutely clean. Wash out the mouth to remove the blood.

Scalding. - Everyone knows this method. However, let me urge the performer to guard against tearing or breaking the skin while plucking after the bird is scalded. Do the plucking as quickly as possible.

Plumping. - Before plumping, hang the bird, head downward, in a cool place to remove all animal heat from the body. To plump simply hold the bird in cold water for a short time. This improves them whether dry-picked or scalded. In cold weather, some breeders prefer keeping the birds out of cold water and simply hanging them head downward, after they are thoroughly cleaned, in the open air to dry. Of course, this can be done only when the weather is cold.

Packing Several Together. - When packing a number of specimens for the same destination, they can be put in a barrel or close box. Line these with manila or white paper (do not use printed, soiled or brown paper.) Pack them as closely as possible. The holes left can be filled with fine excelsior. In shipping to a critical market do not use straw or hay as it stains or marks the birds, which detracts from their value. Be sure no space is left for the birds to chuck around in transit. When the box or barrel is nailed up, designate its contents on the outside. It is bad practice to ship mixed lots of poultry in the same package when it can be avoided.

Packing One Bird. - Line a clean wooden box with two thicknesses of wrapping paper ; be sure the paper has a smooth surface. Let the paper ex- tend over the sides of the box. In this, make a good nest of fine excelsior. Put the bird on its back in the nest and cover it with the projecting paper. Put enough excelsior on top to prevent shifting and nail up the box. This method of packing a bird insures a fine appearance when it arrives at its destination. (See illustration).

Valuable Points For Successful Turkey Raising

4. Before 'putting the little poults into a coop, see that they are perfectly clean and free from lice. Dust them with a good insect powder at least twice a week.

7. For lice, grease the necks, heads and rumps with lard. Never use kerosene. Do not use too much lard and work it well into the down. If too much lard has been applied, the down will stick together.

12. An open shed, facing south, with a high roost is best for growing turkeys. 13. One mating of male and female fertilizes all the eggs laid in one

14. A good mating is made by two-year-old gobblers with pullets or yearling gobblers with old hens. It is better not to mate gobblers and hens of the same age.

15. Turkeys can be successfully hatched in an incubator and reared in a brooder until they are 3 months old, but in lots of no more than 25, because they require constant attention.

16. Do not mate a 40-pound gobbler with a little hen as injury is liable to result. Use a medium sized gobbler. The poults take their size more from the hen.

18. One can tell a young gobbler by his masculine appearing head, heavy caruncles, the development of "tassels" on his breast, and his heavy build.

20. If turkeys are fed in the barnyard every morning and evening they will not stray very far away. However they cannot be kept from roaming about.

25. Do not feed a mash to grown turkeys. Feed whole grains, principally wheat, corn, and oats. Do not feed new corn to them in large quantities. Give old corn if possible and be on the safe side.

This is a very serious disease which is common and most injurious to turkeys. It first attacks the blind intestine, situated between the large and small intestines. Then it attacks the liver, which becomes very much enlarged.

The disease is caused by a germ or microbe, which enters the digestive organs of healthy birds by means of food or water infected by the excrement of a sick bird. Eggs may also be a means of infection. While it is not proven that the germ or microbe is present within the egg of the diseased turkey, it no doubt often exists on the outside of the egg. For this reason the eggs should be carefully cleansed with a cloth wet in alcohol before they are put into the incubator or under the hen. It has been proved that adult fowls as well as sparrows, pigeons, etc., act as hosts to these microbes. Although they have a great degree of resistance themselves, they are a means of infecting turkeys. Young turkeys being more susceptible, contract a more fatal form of the disease and nearly all die. For this reason it is much better to keep turkeys entirely separated from other fowls.

Symptoms. - The symptoms of blackhead are more frequently seen in young turkeys. The bird stands by itself with drooping wings and tail ; shows a loss in weight and has no appetite. The head and comb show a dark purple color when the disease is at its height. Diarrhea is a marked symptom caused from inflammation and internal weakness.

Keep very close watch of every turkey and at the first indication of disease, isolate the bird until the nature of the trouble is ascertained. To leg-band each turkey and keep a record of its weight from time to time would be a good plan. If it is found that any bird is losing weight, it should be regarded with suspicion and taken from the flock.

If blackhead exists in any of the poultry, the houses and feed boxes should be kept free from mice and rats, and the yards from sparrows or pigeons, as these have been known to carry the infection.

In all bowel trouble of turkeys the feeding of boiled rice has proven beneficial, and it is largely practiced by experienced poultry men to prevent

Ten grains of sulphur mixed with one grain of sulphate of iron; or ten grains sulphur, one grain sulphate of iron and one grain sulphate quinine. This treatment should be repeated 2 or 3 times daily for considerable time to obtain results.

For turkeys under 3 months old give ^ grain of copperas and 2^ grains of salicylate of soda in the evening. Give epsom salts every 3 or 4 days, and keep the ground and feeding places well sprinkled with slaked lime.

Indigestion is the prime factor in this trouble, and this is brought about by improper feeding, exposure to cold and dampness. Filth or lice may also be a cause.

The feeding of finely broken charcoal, will be found a great aid to digestion, and a safeguard against fermentation in the crop and gizzard.

Mix equal parts of cloves, cinnamon, ginger and cayenne pepper. Mix one level teaspoonful of this in the mash for one dozen turkeys. When they are 4 or 5 weeks old, double the amount.

Symptoms. - Scabby eruptions about the head; there is a feverish condition and loss of appetite. If it is damp weather there may be cankers in the mouth and throat.

Treatment - Isolate the affected poults; soak the scabs off with warm water; then wash the sores with a 2 per cent solution of carbolic acid or potassium permanganate.

The cause is identical with that which is discussed under the head of Gapes in chickens. Some believe turkeys or chicks are infected with gapes by eating angleworms found in the ground, which is infected with gapeworm eggs, as these eggs may readily infect angle worms.

Preventive Treatment. - Prevention is the main and most successful treatment. Cleanliness in poultry yards and houses. Some have recommended sprinkling the ground with water, into which has been mixed sulphuric acid; after 24 hours cover the ground with lime and turn under with a plow. Or a better way even is to remove the poultry to an entirely new ground.

Treatment. - The crop can usually be emptied by careful manipulation. First give a teaspoonful of sweet oil and then work the contents of the crop with the fingers up through the gullet and out through the mouth; holding: the bird with its head down.

Symptoms. - Much the same as in other fowls, only that turkeys are much more susceptible to unfavorable conditions than other birds. They must be carefully protected from the effects of parasites, dampness and excessive heat, until they are able to wander away with the hen turkey. They thrive much better when not confined.

Treatment. - Turkeys are in more danger from the effects of parasites directly after they are hatched, so the best plan is to treat the hen turkey before they are hatched. The feathers should be thoroughly dusted with insect powder down to the skin, using great care not to get it into the eyes. This should be repeated several times a week, until a day or so before hatching. There is nothing better than the Persian insect powder, but any good insect powder which does not contain ingredients harmful to the eyes will answer. Never use lime or sulphur for this purpose, and kerosene should never be used to destroy lice on the body of the turkey. As soon as the turkeys are hatched examine them for lice. If present they will probably be found under the throat, on top of the head, about the vent or under the wing.

Sweet Oil and Lard: If lice are found, the use of a little sweet oil or fresh lard will destroy them. Rub a very little on top of the head and under the throat. The insect powder can be used for the rest of the body.

It is caused by absorbing poison from the intestines. The presence of the poison is due to indigestion or worms, or from eating decayed meats 'or moldy feed.

It is usually brought on by indigestion caused by overfeeding. If the digestive organs are overloaded and unable to perform their functions properly, part of the food decays before it has time to digest, and is as dangerous to health as food decayed before being eaten. The impurities or poisonous matter is carried into the blood circulation to various parts of the body. The liver acts as a filter or strainer, and it is here these impurities or microbes find lodging and proceed to develop.

Symptoms. - In old birds symptoms are inactiveness, listlessness, prostration, loss of appetite and a rapid loss in weight, accompanied by a yellowish discharge from the bowels. Young turkeys are usually affected when from two to eight months old. Some are taken very suddenly, while others droop around for several days. We have known young turkeys to eat a hearty supper, and to all appearances be in perfect health, the next morning refuse to eat and by night die. Others droop around a day or two. This trouble is not contagious. Turkeys are usually fed in the same manner, but some being stronger than others, are not affected as soon, but keep coming down one after another so that it appears contagious. If in the last stages of this disease a turkey is killed and examined, the liver will be found very much enjarged, and it may be found covered over with round, yellowish, sac-like bunches in which a pasty or cheesy substance is found ; or if the disease is not fully developed, these sacs will contain a transparent liquid.

Preventive Treatment. - A good preventive is to take a gallon of wheat pour 5 or 6 tablespoonfuls of turpentine over it and over all pour boiling water and let stand over night. In the morning feed to the turkeys. Give wheat treated in this way once or twice a week. Turkeys should not be pampered or fed with unnatural food. Remember that it is natural for them to run about here and there seeking bugs, seeds, etc., getting plenty of exercise, as well as food, the exercise being one of the most important factors in turkey raising. Very young turkeys should not be allowed to run when the grass is wet and deep, as becoming wet has an injurious effect on them.

Symptoms. - The first symptoms of roup are those of a severe cold ; later a swelling develops under the eyes; there is discharge from the nostrils; eyes weak and watery, and the poult has difficulty in breathing.

Symptoms. - The birds will steadily lose flesh in spite of a good appetite. They appear indolent and drowsy. If the droppings are watched pieces of the worm will be found, looking like narrow tape.

Treatment. - If a tapeworm is even suspected, give the bird one teaspoonful of castor oil in which has been mixed six drops of oil of male fern. Give this in the morning. It will be better if the feed has been light the night before. Give one more teaspoonful of castor oil in a light mash 2 hours after giving the male fern. Withhold all food for 3 hours after giving worm medicine, and then give a warm soft meal. Continue this diet for 2 days.

One-half teaspoonful Epsom Salts dissolved in 'a little warm water and poured down the throat is good. Or add a tablespoonful of salts to a quart of drinking water, giving no other drink.

The average farmer has all the facilities necessary to raise a large number of ducks and he can make it a profitable source of revenue. It is not necessary that he should have a pond or creek on the place, to be successful in the business, because many successful breeders have nothing but wells. The only difference that can be noticed between "water" and "upland" ducks is the cleaner, prettier plumage of the former.

Pekins. - The Pekin ducks hold first place as being the most popular breed of all, both to the commercial duck raisers and the general farmer. The Pekins are smaller than the Rouens, Muscovys or Aylesburys but they have long, deep bodies, capable of carrying a large amount of flesh in proportion to their size. They are easy fatteners, rapid growers, and good breeders. Pekin ducks are hardy, fair layers and practically non-sitters. They are especially adapted to the production of flesh. When the ducklings are ten days old, they will thrive under any reasonable conditions and they grow very rapidly, reaching a weight of about 10 pounds per pair when 10 weeks old. Pekin ducks are docile and easily confined by low fences. All of these characteristics combined are what have made the Pekins so popular.

Aylesburys. - The Aylesburys are a little larger than the Pekins which they resemble in many ways. They are white skinned and quick maturing but not quite so hardy as the Pekins. They appear to have practically all the qualities which have made the Pekin so popular, and can be kept successfully on either commercial or general farms.

Muscovys. - The Muscovys are the largest of the breeds but are not generally considered as good for market purposes as the others, because of the difference in size between the drake and the duck. They are easily distinguished by the crest-like formation of feathers on the head of the duck which stands up when the bird is alarmed and the large red face of both the drake and duck. A peculiar thing about the Muscovys is that they do not quack like other ducks. They are strong of wing and will fly all over the farm for exercise if the wings are not clipped. They are not greatly esteemed as layers but sometimes a few good layers are found. The meat is good when the birds are young, but as they grow older, it becomes rather coarse and tough. Muscovys are the only ducks of these practical breeds that prepare nests and deposit their eggs. All others must be penned at night, or they will scatter them broadcast. They are unusually good foragers, requiring very little care, and can be kept with a fair degree of success by general farmers.

Colon - White variety; pure white; pale orange or yellow legs, fleshcolored .beak. Colored variety: lustrous blue-black, broken with a little white on body, breast and back; wing coverts lustrous blue-black, broken with white; tail, black; bill, pink; legs, yellow or dark leaden.

Rouens. - The Rouens are decidedly beautiful and this accounts for much of their popularity. They are not as desirable a market duck a-s the Aylesbury or Pekin. They are slower to mature than either; they have dark pin feathers and are not as good layers. They are not adapted for commercial duck farming, but they can be kept successfully by fanciers or on general farms.

Color. - Drake ; brown back, mixed with green ; green head and tail ; neck has white ring around it ; breast claret ; wings have a wide purple bar with narrow white bars on either side the purple. Duck; barred on wings like drake; brown penciled plumage on body.

Indian Runners. - This breed is much smaller than breeds of the meat type so fails as a market duck. Its stronghold is its laying qualities. A record of 160 eggs a year is not at all remarkable for them. Their eggs are larger than hen's eggs but smaller than those of other ducks. Indian Runners are nonsetters, hardy, good foragers and active, They can be told by their upright carriage and instead of waddling as other ducks do they run rapidly. There are three varieties - the Fawn and White, the White and the Penciled.

Houses similar to hen houses can be used for breeding ducks. A certain size coop will be suitable to house many more ducks than chickens. For instance, a flock of fifty ducks will thrive in an inclosure that would not do for half that number of chickens. However, ducks cannot stand as much confinement as a hen. They are more like turkeys in that respect. A single boarded shed from 12 to 15 feet deep, 7 feet high in front and 4 feet in the rear, made wind and water proof by covering with prepared roofing, makes a suitable building for this purpose. A good front is made by one window, covered with a good-sized muslin curtain in front of each pen. The house should be well ventilated. The floor can be of dirt raised 5 to 8 inches above the ground level, provided that the soil is well drained, or board raised 6 to 8 inches above ground level and covered with 3 or 4 inches of dry sand or earth. Partition must be from 2 to 2^2 feet high. For breeding ducks in houses, an alley is not required unless the house is over 15 feet deep, but it is often used in growing pens and brooder houses. The floor should always be covered with plenty of litter, as they do not mind the cold if they can keep their feet warm. Cold feet affects a duck as badly as a frozen comb does a hen. Ducks should be permitted to make their own nest. They are likely to break their eggs unless nest boxes are used similar to those illustrated. Six to seven square feet of floor space should be allowed for each duck. The house should be as convenient as possible to save time. Many people overlook the item of labor in raising poultry, and by doing so materially reduce theif profits.

Selecting Stock. - Only healthy, active, medium-sized females should be used for breeding. Extra large specimens seldom prove as satisfactory as do those of medium size, or a little larger. They should be matured and well proportioned. Pick out ducks with short necks, flat backs, medium long bodies, and of good depth to the keel bones.

Caution: Avoid ducks with watery eyes as it is generally a sign of weakness. Ducks should seldom be kept over two years unless they are extra good breeders and layers.

How to Tell a Drake. - In the colored breeds the difference in the sexes is easily told by the difference in plumage but in the white breeds the sexes are of the .same color. However, the drake can be told in the white breeds as he has a more masculine and coarser appearance, and two of his tail feathers curl over into a short curl. Drakes cannot always be told by their tail feathers as they sometimes get pulled out. A surer way is to notice the quack. A duck quacks and has a deep bass voice, while the drake hisses and his voice is very soft.

Number of Females to a Male. - Ducks are usually mated in flocks of about 30 females with 6 or 8 males. One may reduce the number of males about March 1st and again near the 1st of April, making the proportion after the first reduction 1 male to 6 females and after the second reduction 1 male for 7 to 10 females. The males do _not fight one another.

Care of Breeding Stock. - The stock is not seriously troubled by any degree of cold, but if early laying is desired, the birds should have some protection from storms and should be kept out of drafts. The litter should be kept clean and dry. The layers should be shut up at night or they will scatter their eggs all over the place. They may even lay them in a pond and they \\ill be lost. The eggs should be gathered early in the morning. Ducks lay early and the eggs may freeze. They should have their liberty during the day. It is not necessary for them to have a pond to swim in, but a good swimming place seems to increase the fertility of the eggs.

Eggs for hatching must be fertile and strong. They can be made this way only, by having the stock properly mated and full of health and vigor.

Hatching With Hens. - Practically all duck eggs not hatched in incubators are hatched under hens because ducks do not make satisfactory setters. Before a hen is set she should be thoroughly dusted with insect powder. If several hens are sitting in the same room they should each be confined to their nests and let off once a day for feed and water. If a large number of hens are used for hatching, as many of them as possible should be set at a time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. Hens must be well taken care of in hatching duck eggs because they have to set a week longer. After the ducklings pick the shells it generally takes from 24 to 48 hours for them to hatch. For this reason it is best to allow the hen to get off the nest for food and water when the first duckling picks its shell and then keep her on the nest for the remainder of the hatch. The eggs should be sprinkled with warm water previous to hatching, because ducks' eggs require more moisture than hens' eggs at hatching time.

Artificial Incubation. - The main points on incubation are given in the chicken department and we will not repeat them here. We shall only mention a few special points which apply directly to incubating duck eggs.

Temperature. - An incubator is generally kept at a slightly lower temperature in hatching ducks' eggs than in hatching chickens' eggs. It should be run at 103 degrees the first three weeks and 104 degrees the last week.

up tightly at hatching time to retain the moisture in the incubator. It takes duck eggs quite a while to hatch, even after the eggs are pipped.

Turning and Cooling. - The eggs should be turned twice each day beginning the third and through the 24th day, and cooled once each day beginning the 8th and through the 26th day. In two tray machines reverse the trays end for end and from one side of the incubator to the other, after turning the eggs.

Broken Egg Shells. - As the ducklings are hatching, the broken eggshells should be removed every 6 or 7 hours to prevent them from slipping over the pipped eggs, which means death to the imprisoned ones.

Gauge Machine Higher When Birds Are Out. - As soon as the ducklings are all out of the shell, the machine should be gauged one degree higher. This is because the eggs radiate a great deal of heat just before hatching, and the duckling, when first out, absorbs it, being about like a little sponge. In other words, the rapid evaporation which takes place produces cold. After the birds have dried off, the machine will run at least two degrees lower than when they were still in the egg. They should be kept in the machine from 24 to 36 hours after hatching before they are removed to the brooder.

Testing Eggs. - Directions for making an egg tester are given in the chicken department. Every egg should be tested at least twice during incubation, and the infertile and dead germed ones taken out. It is best to do this on the 7th and 14th days. Dead germs decompose rapidly and soon send off an odor. White shelled eggs can sometimes be tested successfully the 4th or 5th day. Hold the large end of the eggs up when testing. This shows the condition of the embryo and the air cell.

Fertile and Infertile Eggs. - A fertile egg exposes a small dark spot with little blood veins extending in all directions if the embryo is living. If the embryo is dead the veins will have settled away from it towards the edge of the yolk, forming an irregular circle of blood which is called a blood ring. After the 14th day the eggs which have strong living embryos are dark and partly filled up. They also show a distinct line of demarcation between the growing embryo and the air cell, while dead germs lack this distinct line and are only partially developed.

See Brooding in chicken department. It is important in brooding ducks not to have too much heat, as it means weak legs. They do not need quite as much heat as chickens. Start the brooder at about 95 degrees Fahrenheit and after the first 6 or 10 days reduce the heat to about 80. The reduction of heat depends upon the season. At first the ducklings should be kept around the hover to teach them the source of the heat. Artificial heat can be removed after about three weeks. The brooding systems used for chickens are also good for ducks.

If hens are used it is better to keep the hens confined and allow the ducklings free range, for hens are inclined to wander off too far with them. The young ducks grow surprisingly fast and soon adapt themselves to new conditions.

After they are 3 or 4 weeks old, the ducklings can be kept in a cool house where they will eat better and grow faster. When warm weather comes no more than a roof or sun shade is necessary for them. In fact, any more housing may be detrimental. The young birds need protection from both sun and rain, but they must have exercise and fresh air. Their pen should be kept as clean as possible. As they grow older it will be found advisable not to have too many in one pen - no more than can be killed at one job. Ducks put on flesh rapidly but they also fall away rapidly when excited.

Handling. - In handling ducks pick them up by the neck, and do not grasp them any tighter than is necessary to hold them. Never pick a duck up by the legs because they are too easily broken.

Ducks can be fed successfully on the same rations given for chickens, but it is better as a rule to feed more mash feed and a larger proportion of vegetable and green feeds. When ducks are raised for the green ducklings (green ducklings are those which are grown very rapidly and marketed when from 8 to 12 weeks old. They weigh from 4 1/2 to 6 pounds each), they are fed a maintenance ration only, after they have stopped laying in the summer until about the first of December. Then the amount of mash is increased and a laying ration given. Where ducks are kept for egg production they should be given a laying ration the year around. Ducklings and ducks should be fed on flat clean boards instead of in troughs. They are rapacious eaters and will stow away a lot of food. If too concentrated, too rich, they will overeat and go off their feed. When they have free range and a swimming place they can stand heavier feeding than when confined. The ration may be mixed and made up in many different ways but it is generally best to feed it in the form of a moist mash.

Ducks should always have plenty of good clean water before them. They have no crops so they must have water to help wash the food into the gizzard.

Ducklings should not be fed until they are from 24 to 36 hours old. They should always have plenty of water right by their feeding place because ducks need water to wash down their food. The water should be deep enough for them to run their bills in up to their eyes, as it keeps their nostrils washed out and prevents disease.

Five times daily, beginning early, feed them on a mixture of equal parts, by measure, of bread crumbs and rolled oats. Into this thoroughly mix 3 percent of sharp sand. Beginning the 4th day change this feed to equal parts cornmeal, rolled oats, bran and bread ; then after the 7th day to three parts bran, one part each of corn meal and low grade wheat flour, 5 percent of beef scrap, and 10 percent of green feed, with about 3 percent of sand or other grit in each

After the 7th day, feed the ducklings four times daily until they are about 2 or 3 weeks old, then drop down to three times daily. The grit or sand may be fed either in a hopper or in the mash after the young birds are a week old, but it is usually fed in all duck rations. As a rule, beef scrap is not fed until the ducklings are a week old, then 5 percent is given in the ration. This is increased gradually so that at the end of the 3rd week it is 15 percent. If the ducks are to be marketed, the proportion of corn meal should be gradually increased and the proportion of bran gradually decreased until the rations is the same as the fattening ration given below. Those saved for breeding purposes should be given the above ration with the increased 15 percent of beef scrap, but should not be fed a fattening ration . They should have a good range where they can have plenty of grass and water, running water if possible. If the ducklings are confined in yards a great deal of vegetables and green feed should be given.

Fattening Ration. - Fatten the ducks to be marketed for two weeks on the following ration : two parts by weight of low grade flour of middlings, three parts of corn meal, one part of bran, one-half part of beef scrap, with 10 percent green feed and 3 percent grit. This mash is fed three times daily.

Another good mixture is : 3 parts corn meal, one part each of bran and low grade wheat flour, 3 percent oyster shell, 5 percent beef scrap, with grit and green feed added.

Green feed tends to produce a flabby, rather than firm flesh, and to color the meat, so it may be well to leave it out the last week of fattening. Nevertheless one can 'keep the birds in better feeding condition with the green feed in the ration.

Boiled fish may be substituted in place of beef scrap. This should not be fed, however, within 12 days before the birds are to be marketed, because it tends to give the meat a fishy taste.

Another good system for feeding ducklings is as follows : When two weeks old feed a mixture of equal parts shorts, bran and corn meal. Mix these together and moisten with new milk. Gradually decrease this and add middlings. At two weeks begin to add meat scraps. Gradually increase this until at the end of 7 weeks it comprises about l/% of the feed. Have 10 percent of sharp sand or grit in each feed. (A duck has no crop, the food going directly to the gizzard ; they must have grit to help grind it.) Feed the birds all they can eat three times daily. Have plenty of water before them. - Recommended by E. Albertson, Seattle, Wash.

The first few days feed one part meal, two parts bran, one-half part sharp sand. Mix with raw eggs taken from the incubator - 3 eggs to a quart of feed. Keep this mixture before the ducklings the first four days. Give them plenty of water. On the fifth day begin feeding the mixture four times daily, adding a little No. 2 flour and beef scrap. Gradually decrease the amount of eggs and increase the amount of beef scrap. Beginning the 4th week feed the following mixture : 2 parts corn meal, 3 parts bran, 1 part each of beef scrap and No. 2 flour. This can be fed until the ducks are sold. If the trade demands fatter birds the amount of corn can be increased. - F. H. Fehrenschild, Westwood, New Jersey.

Feed a mixture made as follows: Two parts each of corn meal, ground oats, and middlings. For every 6 quarts of these, add a large handful of fine sand and one quart of meat scraps. Mix thoroughly and wet up just a little more than for chicks. Feed four times a day. When the ducklings weigh about 2 pounds apiece, add 2 parts of cracked corn to the mash each night. You can almost see them plump up. They will be ready for market when about ten weeks old. Sell them just before the pin feathers start-^because ducks shrink in flesh as the feathers come out. - Merrill Hutchinson, Reading, Mass.

When the ducklings are 36 hours old, feed them oatmeal moistened with sweet milk. Feed this five times daily the first week, then add one feed of shorts and'bran and a little beef meal once a day for the second week. The third week discontinue the oats and give bran twice a day, and Kafir corn once a day. When ten weeks old feed only morning and evenings. - Mrs. Henry Shrader, Wauneta, Kans.

The first two or three days feed the ducklings the following mash : 1 part corn meal, 2 parts wheat bran, one-half part middling and 5 percent sand. When three days old add 5 percent meat scrap and one-third green stuff to this ration. Feed until birds are about 6 weeks old, then feed the following mixture : One part each of bran, dry brewer's grains, corn meal and middlings. To this add one-third part green stuff, 10 percent meat scrap and 5 percent sand. - Evergreen Poultry Farm, Glassboro, N. J.

Feed a mash of prepared poultry feed, beef scrap, sand and finely cut cowpea vines the first three weeks. The 4th week begin feeding a mash of one-half each wheat middlings and prepared feed. The 6th week start using all wheat* middlings. The 4th week gradually begin increasing the amount of green stuff and beef scraps. Feed the ducklings 5 times a day the first two weeks and then three times daily - 6 a. m., noon and 5 p. m. First three weeks feed all they will eat hut do not crowd them the last seven weeks.

First week feed four times daily on bran and bread or cracker crumbs mixed with a little fine sand. The second week begin feeding just as often, onethird each of bran, corn meal and bread or cracker crumbs, adding a little meat meal and fine sand. The fifth week begin giving equal parts bran and corn meal, 10 percent sand and meat meal, and mix in a little cut clover. Feed four times daily if confined. - Edward G. Norman, Marietta, Pa.

Feed four times daily the following mixture : 1 part each shorts, rolled oats, corn meal and bran, and blood meal, 1 teaspoonful to each quart of feed. Dampen this with skim milk or water until it crumbles. Keep green food, water and grit before the ducklings at all times. The second week begin feeding the above ration, but use 2 parts of bran instead of one part, and a tablespoonful of blood meal to each quart of food instead of a teaspoonful. Keep grit and water before them. - F. D. Fowler, Carlinville, 111.