Stock Township (part 9 of 9)

For the first 5 days of feeding, give the following mixture: Equal parts by measure of corn meal and cracker or bread crumbs; hard boiled eggs, 15 percent of total bulk of crackers and meal ; sand, 5 percent of the total of meal and crackers. Mix thoroughly with milk or water and feed four times daily.

From 5 to 20 days old the following mixture (by measure) : One part corn meal, 2 parts bran, rolled oats 50 percent of this bulk; sand and beef scraps each 5 percent; green feed 10 percent. Dampen with water to a dry crumbly state. Feed four times daily.

From 20 to 42 days old feed the following four times daily (by measure) : 2 parts wheat bran ; 1 part corn meal ; sand 5 percent of this bulk ; beef scraps 5 percent; green feed 10 percent. Moisten with water to a dry crumbly mass.

From 42 to 70 days old feed four times daily the following: 1 part (by measure) wheat bran, 2 parts corn meal; beef scrap 10 percent of this bulk; green feed, 10 percent; coarse sand, 5 percent. Mix with water to a crumbly mass.

The ducks that are kept for breeding and not for egg production should be kept on a grass range if possible and fed on the following: 1 part each, by weight, or low grade wheat flour, corn meal and green feed, 2 parts bran, 3 percent grit, 9 percent beef scrap. Dampen slightly. Give this sparingly once or twice every day, with one feed of mixed grains.

Another good mash for breeding stock is as follows (by measure) : 4 parts bran, 3 parts corn meal, ^4 part beef scrap, 2 parts low grade wheat flour, and 2 parts green feed. Add a little shell, grit or other mineral matter to this and make a wet mash. Feed sparingly once or twice daily, with one feed of mixed grains.

In feeding breeding stock give them very little hard, dry grain, but more of the following mash : 2 parts each of oats, cracked corn, wheat shorts and meat scraps. Keep a supply of sand or other grit near the feeding trough. - Merrill Hutchinson, Reading, Mass.

For breeders: Morning food, equal parts bran and shorts; corn and oats chop ; 5 percent each fine grit and beef scrap ; 20 percent green cut clover. Feed wheat or oats at noon. Evening feed same as morning. For variety give green or boiled vegetables. Keep flock on grass range with plenty of water. - W. E. Ritter, Williamsport, Pa.

Feed breeding stock the following: equal parts wheat bran and corn meal. 10 percent green rye with cut clover, same of beef scrap. Mix a little grit in the food and keep ground oyster shells and grit by them. - James Rankin, So. Easton, Mass.

Begin feeding the breeding stock early in June the following: one part each wheat middlings, dried brewers' grains, and corn meal, three parts bran.

To this add five percent each sand and meat scrap, and l/± green feed. Feed this twice a day until November 1st. Then feed as follows: one part each of bran, dried brewers' grains and middlings, two parts corn meal, to which add one-third to l/4 green stuff, 5 percent sand and 15 percent meat scraps. Feed night and morning. At noon give: one part each whole oats and cracked corn. July 1st begin feeding first ration again. - Evergreen Poultry Farm, Glassboro, N. J.

Feed breeders same as market ducks until about eight weeks old then feed twice a day on the following mash: two parts meal, three parts bran, one part No. 2 flour, and ]/2 part beef scraps. About December 15 change the feed to seven parts each of bran and meal, two parts beef scrap, and three parts No. 2 flour. Also feed green stuff such as beets, potatoes, cut clover or apples until the birds have grass again in the spring. - H. H. Fehrenschild, Westwood, N.J.

For breeders feed night and morning by measure: one part each corn meal and rolled oats, four parts bran, and two parts shorts. Dampen with water or skimmed milk until it is a crumbly mass. Three or four times each week add ground meat and oil meal to the ration. Feed all they will eat in about 15 minutes. Remove what is left. Have grit, oyster shell, green feed food and water constantly before them. Give free range from 9 :30 a. m. to 6 at night. - F. D. Fowler, Carlinville, 111.

Feed breeders three times daily on: one part each of ground oats and corn meal, two parts bran, four parts green corn or cut clover chopped fine, a little grit and beef meal. - C. E. Bradley, Lake City, Iowa.

Keep the breeding stock on a grass run with plenty of water. In the morning feed following mash : one gallon bran, two quarts of shorts, one-half pound beef scrap, one-half pound oyster shell, mixed thoroughly with sweet skim milk. Give Kafir corn or corn at night. - Mrs. Henry Shrader, Wauneta, Kans.

Give breeding stock free range in a swamp where they can get plenty of bugs, insects, mud frogs, etc. Feed bran mornings and corn evenings, also plenty of meat scraps.

This is a good mixture for breeders : equal parts of wheat bran, corn meal, and green feed, also 5 percent each of coarse sand or grit and beef scraps.

A ration for laying ducks is recommended as follows (by measure) : corn meal, 50 percent; green feed, 15 percent; wheat bran, 15 percent; beef scraps, 12 percent ; grit or coarse sand, 8 percent. Dampen to a dry crumbly state and feed night and morning.

Two parts each of oats, wheat and barley to one quart each buckwheat and corn ground together and 15 percent of fish scrap added. This is a splendid laying ration if the fish can be conveniently obtained.

A good formula for feeding Indian Runner ducks for eggs is as follows: 100 pounds bran, 100 pounds corn chops or meal, 100 pounds white middlings, 50 pounds beef scraps, 50 pounds alfalfa meal. Mix with hot water before feeding in cold weather. In a box keep a mixture of two-third grit and onethird shell, with lots of good bedding for them in the house. Feed them once a day when on range and twice a day when confined.

Begin feeding Pekin ducks for eggs about December 1st. Feed the following both morning and night : one pound each of low grade flour or middlings, corn meal and bran, 15 percent each of beef scrap and vegetables or green feed, also some grit. When laying heavily, feed the following at noon : one quart of mixed wheat and corn to every thirty ducks. Feed these rations throughout the year to any ducks kept principally for egg production. Thirty laying Pekin ducks will eat about ten quarts dampened mash each meal.

A good laying ration is as follows : two parts bran, one part corn meal, one part wheat middlings or low grade flour, 10 percent alfalfa or clover and 5 percent beef scrap.

Give the layers the following: three parts (by measure) wheat bran, two parts of Indian corn meal, one part each of low grade flour and beef scrap. Salt this slightly and dampen to a crumbly mass.

A good ration is as follows: Five measures each of bran and corn chop, two measures middlings, \l/2 measures beef scrap, three measures each of cut green stuff and boiled vegetables, and 5 percent sand.

How to Kill. - To kill ducks stun them with a sharp blow on the head and then stick them through the throat or just back of the eye with a knife which has a narrow blade. To make them easier to handle run a hook in the mouth and out through the nostril.

When to Kill - Ducks should be killed just before the pinfeathers start or when about ten weeks old to make the best appearance. Pin feathers make a bird look coarse and unsightly.

Picking - Steam Picking Saves Artificial Drying. - Pull tail and wing feathers and throw them away before steaming the ducks. Six or eight ducks which have been stuck and bled can be steamed at a time. Hang them on hooks in the top of a barrel which is airtight and steam them from one-half to two minutes - until the feathers come off easily. Then pluck.

Removing Down. - The down can be removed very easily by sprinkling powdered rosin over the duck's body and dipping the bird in hot water. This melts the rosin so that the down and rosin can be rubbed off easily with the hand and leave the skin clean.

Plumping. - As soon as the feathers are off, no matter whether they are removed by steaming as given above or by scalding or dry picking, they should be put in cold water to remove the animal heat and harden the flesh.

Worth Remembering. - When but a few ducks are raised, they should be sold to local trade. Good money can be made from ducks sold in this way.

If the fanner wants to raise them to ship away, he must generally produce them by the thousands and do business on a large enough scale to warrant the outlay of a great deal of time and capital.

Treatment For Diseases Of Ducks

Ducks are generally strong and free from disease. However, they are sometimes troubled by some of the same diseases that infect chickens. The symptoms and treatments of these diseases are generally the same.

Too much exposure to the direct rays of the sun. Symptoms. - Reeling and tottering over as if in a fit. Treatment. - Remove the cause. Take tJie duckling out of the sun. Caution : Do not allow ducklings in the direct rays of the noon-day sun. Many are killed this way.

Geese Weights In Pounds

Toulouse Geese. - This variety is bred in large numbers by farmers and is undoubtedly the most popular in America. They are not considered to be the best market geese, however, as their flesh is somewhat flabby and coarse. They make heavy weights on coarse feed but are late in maturing. Their late maturity gains the title for them of the Christmas goose, They are just about ready for market at Christmas time. The females of this variety are rather good layers, laying about forty eggs a season. The sexes are the same color - grayish on the breast and above, running to white under the body and in the rear.

Embden. - The Embdens are probably second in popularity in this country. They are about the same size as the Toulouse but their flesh is better for table use. They are practical birds for farmers, paying well for their keeping. The females are very good layers and setters. They do not lay as many eggs as the Toulouse geese but they are persistent setters. Their eggs are very large and white and have a rough, thick shell. The young of this variety are quick to mature. The male and. female are both white.

African. - This breed is considered by many the most profitable to raise. They grow heaviest in the shortest time, as they will weigh from 8 to 10 pounds when only ten weeks old. The flesh is splendid for table purposes as it is highly flavored and fine. The females are excellent layers, averaging about forty eggs a season. These geese are light and dark gray. The neck plumage is light gray with a dark gray stripe running from the head to the body. The back is dark gray blending into light gray under the body. The tail and wings are dark gray. Considering the time and labor spent in raising them, this breed is a most profitable one to keep.

Chinese. - This is a practical variety for those who raise a limited number of geese. They are the smallest, also the noisiest of any variety. The females are excellent layers, averaging from fifty to sixty eggs a season. They can, no doubt, be bred up to become paying for their eggs alone. The young mature early and are quite hardy. The flesh is of the finest quality, being decidedly superior to other geese.

The Gray Chinese are the same color in both sexes, being a brownish gray on the upper parts and running into a lighter shade on the lower parts of the body. Like the Africans, they have a knob at the junction of the bill and skull. The Gray Chinese are smaller and more brown than the African. The White Chinese are pure white.

Canadian. - These are the wild geese that are so common to the country. They are among the best known of our domestic geese although more wild and harder to confine. They cannot be held in check without removing the outer joint of the wing. These birds are hardy and easy to rear. They are a fine table fowl. The females are good layers. This breed can be told by its black head and neck and the white stripe nearly covering its feet. The back is dark gray, breast light gray, becoming darker as it nears the legs, the plumage from the legs to th.i tail is white.

Egyptian Geese. - This is purely an ornamental variety kept for show purposes. They are the bantams of the goose tribe. The males are very quarrelsome. Two can seldom be kept in the same pen as they will fight to death. Their color is chestnut, gray, buff and black. There are but few of them in the country.

The conditions necessary for the successful raising of geese are almost entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising. Geese require a much larger space than ducks. They need free range and water. There are many places on the farm that are useless for cultivation that could be turned into profitable runs for them. They will thrive on farms that have branches, streams, or unused springs on them. Farmers who profit by this add considerably to their annual incomes. Geese need very little care and attention in comparison with other poultry. If they have plenty of pasture on the farm and water, they will take care of themselves.

Water. - When running water is not available, geese should be watered in dishes deep enough for them to wash out their nostrils. This prevents the insects and dirt from bothering them too much.

Housing. - All that is necessary in the way of houses is protection from wind and storms. Cold weather does not ever inconvenience geese when they have a dry, well ventilated place to rest. Any shed-like structure is sufficient that is about six feet high in front and three feet high in the rear, built any width and length that is large enough to accommodate the birds. Each member of the flock should have about ten square feet of floor space. It is advisable not to have a shed over twelve feet wide as it is liable to be damp. The house may be built of cheap lumber and covered with tar paper, or made more durable by covering with a prepared roofing paper. The front of the shed can be closed with heavy cotton cloth curtains. The curtains may be fastened on frames to be swung open like hinged doors, or swung up and fastened with a hook. The main objection to the latter method is that when the curtains are in a horizontal position they catch dust. This makes them less sanitary and less able to admit air and light. These curtains may be left open continually in fair weather and closed only during the night in extremely cold weather or during storms that would beat through the openings and make the floor damp and uncomfortable.

Mating. - The breeding stock should be at least two years old and well matured. Geese live to a great age and frequently remain vigorous and lay a fair number of fertile eggs when thirty years of age. Of course, the ganders are not reliable after they are about eight years old. When convenient, it is a good plan to seclude each mating a week or two just at the beginning of the breeding season. The time will readily be determined by the actions and cries of the birds. As soon as the birds are rightly mated they may be permitted to run together as they will not mix nor mate over again. When a good mating is secured, it should be continued for six or seven years ; i. e., as long as the -birds get results. Some breeders prefer old birds to young ones' but we believe the characteristics of the individual are more important than the age.

The season for breeding begins about February, but some geese will begin laying earlier, say in December, then stop, and begin once more in February. No feed is necessary outside of what they pick up off the range until cold weather destroys this source of food. Laying geese must not be allowed to get too fat as it injures the fertility of the eggs.

Setting. - Geese rniake their own nests from the litter and straw on the floor of their house. They will lay from ten to twenty eggs before they become broody. Just as soon as a goose shows broodiness or an inclination to set, she should be removed and placed in a small coop or dark box, and kept there for two or three days with plenty of water to drink but no food. This will break her up and she can be put back into the yards to begin another laying of eggs. One should set the first and second laying of eggs under hens, giving four or five eggs to a hen. When the goose has laid the second laying of eggs, she will have to be confined and broken of her broodiness again, then she will lay a third lot. She should be permitted to set on the third laying herself instead of putting them under hens.

Feeding Breeders. - When there is a scarcity of food in the fall or when the geese are laying, they should be fed. We give the following mixtures that have proved very satisfactory : of beef scraps, and feed 10% of the bulk of the whole ration of steamed clover, green feeds, and cooked vegetables. Give a light feed of this ration in the morning, and at night feed cracked corn.

Morning and night feed what oats and corn the geese will eat up clean. At noon give vegetable food such as alfalfa, steamed clover, apple parings, etc. Let them to run in all kinds of weather.

In the morning feed equal parts of corn meal and shorts, mixed with 10% of beef scraps to a crumbly state. Feed only what they will eat up quickly. In the afternoon feed whole grain, barley, corn and oats. Put feed in small boxes. Also give vegetable feeds and plenty of good clean water and oyster shell.

By measure : 2 parts shorts, 4 parts each of bran and cut clover and 1 part corn meal. Dampen with water or skimmed milk to make a crumbly mass. Frequently add cooked vegetables and ground meat to this ration. Feed morning and evening. At noon give a light whole corn feed. Keep oyster shell and grit before them continually.

Care of Goslings. - The hen and goslings should not be disturbed for about twenty-four hours after the young birds are hatched. It is sometimes advisable to remove all but two or three of the little fellows as soon as they dry off. Some hens are clumsy and trample them to death if left on the nest with them. If the birds are removed, they should be kept in a warm place. This gives them time to dry off. After they are thoroughly dry the hen and brood should be put in a large, roomy coop for four or five days. When the goslings are about five days old they can shift for themselves in good weather. Before feathering, they are easily chilled and should be looked after during cold rains. When one is found chilled or cast on his back in the mud, he should be put into a warm place and kept until he recovers.

One-third shorts, two-thirds corn meal and 10% beef scrap. Moisten with water until crumbly and give them only what they will eat up clean three times daily for about a month.

For about the first forty-eight hours give nothing but tender grass, then feed every two or three hours two-thirds shorts and one-third corn meal. Wet up and then squeeze practically dry. Do not give sloppy food and feed sparingly. The second week give cracked corn and a run of grass.

Feed all the grass or lettuce leaves they will eat. At first give a mixture of bran and corn meal but feed whole grain later. Let the chief feed be grass or other green food and let them have plenty of water at all times.

As soon as the goslings are dry put them in brooders. After they are twentyfour hours old, feed them four times a day: 1 part each (by measure) of shorts, rolled oats, bran, and corn meal, blood meal, a teaspoonful to a quart of food. Dampen with water or skimmed milk until crumbly. Have grit, water and green food constantly before them. Give water in such a way they cannot get into it. Reduce brooder heat from 90 degrees until they need no heat at all then remove them to other quarters and feed three times a day : 1 part each (by measure) of rolled oats, bran and shorts, blood meal, a tablespoonful to a quart of feed.

Add cooked vegetables and corn meal occasionally. Mix with skimmed milk or water into a crumbly mass. Have water and grit before them. Do not allow the goslings in water until they are full feathered.

Start the goslings on fresh, green grass, then gradually add a slightly moistened corn meal to the ration. It is also good to mix a little sand and charcoal with the corn meal. Feed this three times daily for about two days, then change to the following ration : equal parts (by measure) of middlings, bran, and steamed cut clover or cooked vegetables. Feed this three times daily until the birds are eight weeks old then fatten for market.

After the first twenty-four hours, give the goslings fresh, tender grass to eat and water to drink. In a couple of days gradually begin feeding them finely cracked corn, well scalded, and permit them to run on tender grass. If they are confined, move their pen to a fresh grass spot every day. Feed them often. During stormy weather they must have green feed, such as tender grass, finely cut green oats, rye, or clover, given them. Protect them from rains until their feathers are grown. After that they need only come home to get grain food each night, when necessary.

When geese are to be fattened they should be put in a pen small enough to keep them from running around too much. They should be allowed from eight to fourteen square feet apiece. Care should be taken not to frighten or disturb them. If geese are irritated in the least they will not get fat, but instead will grow another crop of feathers. When the tips of the wings reach the tail or when about ten weeks old, they will be ready for market, weighing from eight to ten pounds. It takes about two weeks to fatten young geese.

Mix corn meal to a dry crumbly state and add twenty percent of this bulk of beef scrap. Salt slightly. Feed all the geese will eat clean, three times daily. During the middle of" the day the birds may receive some whole grain, especially if it is soaked.

Famous Watertown Method of Fattening. - This method is given its name because it is practiced mainly by the farmers around Watertown, Wis. It is a new plan of fattening for this country, being started by some German farmers, but it is very successful and we feel that it should be taken to other farmers that they may reap its benefits. A demand for the geese, fattened in this way, can soon be created and they bring a high price. The method follows :

The geese are fed and kept growing fast until about Thanksgiving time, when they are confined and the process of fattening begun. As stated above, the birds that have been running at liberty are naturally shy and timid, and must be handled cautiously. The feeder must reconcile them to his presence. Strangers should not be permitted around their pens and everything should be done to gain their confidence. Feeding is begun gradually at first, the geese being fed only a little, three times a day. The number of meals and the amount of feed are both gradually increased until the birds are really stuffed every four hours. It takes about ten days for full feed to be reached after the process is begun.

How to Make Feed. - A cooked feed is given and is made as follows: Two parts of ground and sifted barley or oats, one part wheat flour and one part sifted corn meal are well mixed together, moistened with water, and made into a stiff dough. This is worked into noodles about the size of small pork sausages. The dough may be run through a sausage mill and cut into the proper length as it comes out. The ends are moulded into a dull point with the fingers. This process makes noodles that are about three inches in length and one inch thick. The noodles can either be boiled or baked, preferably boiled. The noodles are put into a wire basket made from the same kind of wire that is used in ash sifters. The basket is just the right size to fit into a wash boiler. It is fastened a little off the bottom to prevent burning. When the noodles are thoroughly cooked they rise to the surface. Then the basket is taken out and immersed in cold water. This prevents them from clinging together. After being treated in this manner they can be heaped into a basket with no danger of their losing shape or sticking together.

How to Feed. - The goose to be fed should be confined in a small place off the pen. The feeder can sit on a stool with a pail of water and basket of noodles near him. He then dips a noodle in water, opens the bird's mouth and slips it in. The goose will readily swallow a few of them of its own accord, then the feeder gently pushes enough of them down its throat to stuff it full. When the bird is released it immediately drinks its fill of water, which should always be fresh. Each bird is stuffed in this way and then they are left undisturbed until the next feeding time. If at any time a goose has not digested all the food it was given before, it is not fed so much. If a bird goes off its feed, it must be put on the range for a couple of days. If it shows signs of indigestion, a feed or so should be skipped. Some feeders think it wise to reduce the feed once in a while, after they are on full feed, and then gradually bring them back. They will" not become "stale" when treated this way.

This is a very simple method and one can soon learn to stuff a- goose very quickly. It is practiced at a time of the year when there is practically nothing else to do on the farm and it will produce paying returns. It is a method that is fast gaining ground where its success is known.

Bran, Shorts, Scraps, Oil Meal and Corn Meal. - Keep confined closely and feed : two parts (by measure) of bran, one part each of shorts, beef scraps, oil meal and corn meal, moistened with sufficient water to make it crumble. Feed three times daily. Give whole corn once in a while. Grit, green food, and water should be constantly before them. - F. D. Fowler, Carlinville, 111.

Corn Meal, Ground Oats, Middlings and Barley. - Feed one-half corn meal, one-fourth ground oats, and the remainder wheat middlings and barley. Mix together thoroughly and dampen with scalding milk or water. Feed as much of this ration as they will eat up clean four or five times daily. Give plenty of water. - Mrs. M. Swartsley, Columbus, Neb.

Alfalfa. - Turn geese into a field of alfalfa when old enough to fatten. and they will become very fat and heavy. - M. B. Caldwell, Broughton, Kas.

Killing and Dressing. - Geese are killed by sticking in the throat the same as ducks, then they are dry picked. About two inches of feathers should be left on the neck and on the wings at the first joint. After the feathers are taken off the down is wiped off by brushing the body with the hand moistened in water. The birds should be plumped in cold water for about an hour after they are picked. However, they should not be left in the water too long or they will become bleached and water-soaked. They are then ready for market.

It is better to market young geese some time in October. If possible they should be marketed before it turns cold weather because the cold makes them much harder to dress. The feathers are harder to pull, and one is more liable to tear the flesh.

Treatment For Diseases Of Geese

The same is true of geese as of ducks, if they are given free range and a dry, clean coop in which to retreat when necessary they are seldom troubled by any disease. The diseases which do overtake them have practically the same symptoms and require the same treatments as those of chickens.

General Live Stock Information

Stockmen and others interested in the production of live stock may secure booklets and circulars criptive of the various breeds by applying to the secretaries of the respective associations:

Swine

Bulletins and Circulars of Information pertaining to live stock and other agricultural topics can be secured from the national departments and from one's State Experiment Station that are helpful and the following list of departments

Live Stock Bibliography

Many stockmen enjoy having a more or less complete library of books treating in detail and at length the numerous subjects and phases of live stock husbandry. A few of the best books on important subjects and two of the most generally read live stock periodicals follow. The publishers of "The Stock Book" will gladly help you to secure them:

"Types and Breeds of Farm Animals," Plumb. "Judging Farm Animals," Plumb. "Breeding Farm Animals," Mumford. "Feeds and Feeding," Henry and Morrison. "Dairy Cattle and Milk Production," Eckles. "Beef Cattle Production," Mumford. "Pork Production," Day. "Sheep Management," Kleinheinz. "Horse Production," Gay.

Miscellaneous

Horses from thirty to forty beats per minute ; cattle from forty to fifty beats per minute; sheep from seventy to eighty beats per minute; hogs from seventy to ninety beats per minute.

To take the pulse of a horse stand on the left side and run the finger gently along the lower jaw bone until you feel the artery just at the front edge of the large muscles at the side of the jaw. To take the pulse of a cow stand on the left side but reach over the neck and feel the artery on the right side of the jaw. The pulse of sheep is generally taken on the inside of the hind leg.

Uses And Doses Of Over Fifty Stable Medicines

Aconite (Tincture) . - Use 20 to 30 drops for cattle; 10 to 20 drops for horses; 10 drops for sheep; 1 to 5 drops for pigs- Good for inflammations and fevers. It relieves pain when applied externally in small amounts. Do not give when heart is weak. It is poisonous.

Alum. - Use 3 scant teaspoonfuls for cattle; 1 scant teaspoonful for horses; 30 drops for sheep; 15 drops for pigs. This is good for diarrhea, and when dissolved in water is fine for sore mouth.

Ammonia Water. - Use 2 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 1 tablespoonful for horses ; 2 scant teaspoonfuls for sheep ; l/2 to 1 scant teaspoonful for hogs. Dilute with water. Good as a stimulant, and in bloating, indigestion and colic.

Arnica, Tincture. - Use 2 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls for horses; 2 scant teaspoonfuls for sheep; l/2 scant teaspoonful for pigs. Checks fever and causes the animal to sweat.

Arsenic (Fowler's Solution). - Use 1 to \y2 tablespoonfuls for cattle; y£ to 1 tablespoonful for horses ; 5 to 20 drops for sheep ; 5 to 20 drops for pigs. Give after eating or in the food. Used for heaves and chronic diseases.

Asafetida Tincture. - Use 6 to 8 tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 4 tablespoonfuls for horses ; 1 tablespoonful for sheep ; 1 to 2 scant teaspoonfuls for pigs.

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate). - Use 4 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 2 tablespoonfuls for horses ; 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for sheep and hogs. Good for indigestion, constipation, wind colic. Has the faculty for reducing gases and sweetens the stomach.

Belladonna, Fluid Extract. - Use 1 scant teaspoonful for cattle; y2 scant teaspoonful for horses ; 20 drops for sheep ; 3 drops for pigs. Given with good effect in severe colic, fevers, caked bag, and lockjaw.

Blue 'Vitriol. - Use 2 tablespoonfuls in a pint of water. This is a good antiseptic and also astringent. Cleaning wounds is the usual use for it.

Borax. - Used chiefly for skin treatments. It is also used for sore mouth. Borax is a good germ killer. It is an antiseptic and will "bind up" the bowels.

Boric Acid. - Dissolve in water all that can be held without settling. This is one of the finest of the antiseptic medicines. It is not poisonous and can be used on any part of the body.

Buchu, Powdered Leaves. - Use 1 to 7 tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 1 to 5 tablespoonfuls for horses ; 1 tablespoonful for sheep and hogs. These can be used as diuretics. Will develop heat and sweat quickly.

Butter of Antimony. - Used mostly as an external application. It is usually applied in salve form for cleansing sores. Fine for foot-rot and any sore on the body.

Calomel. - Use 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for cattle; 30 drops to 1 teaspoonful for horses ; 8 to 20 drops for hogs and sheep. It has a good effect as a purgative and for intestinal worms. When used in dry form it is good for healing open wounds.

Camphor. - Use 2 good tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 3 teaspoonfuls for horses ; yt> teaspoonful for hogs ; 2 small teaspoonfuls for sheep. Give in half a cup of water. This makes a fine remedy to relieve nausea, colic, diarrhea, coughs and to stop pain in a wound. Good for lameness and if applied to bag will stop milk flow.

Cantharides, or Spanish Fly. - Used often in powdered form - 1 teaspoonful mixed with seven level teaspoonfuls of lard, and applied externally makes a good blister. A drop or two given in a handful of grain tends to excite the generative organs.

Capsicum. - Use 1 to 3 teaspoonfuls for cattle; 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for horses ; y2 teaspoonful for sheep and hogs. This is a spicy drug and acts in such a way as to diminish the effect of a stronger drug. This is a good stimulant.

Carbolic Acid. - Use 2 small teaspoonfuls in a cup of water. This is used as an antiseptic and aids in healing wounds and sores. It keeps flies away. This is very poisonous and burns the body if not diluted.

Castor Oil. - Use 1 cupful for cattle ; 3 cupfuls for horses ; 4 tablespoonfuls for sheep and pigs. This is used as a purgative and is well known.

Miscellaneous 411

Chloroform. - Used to relieve or deaden pain and to produce sleep. A little poured on a handkerchief and held to the nostrils of an animal quiets it quickly. Very seldom given internally.

Cinchona, Powdered Bark. - Use 1 to 4 tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 1 to 3 teaspoonfuls for horses ; y2 teaspoonful for sheep and hogs. A very good tonic.

Copperas. - Use 2 teaspoonfuls for cattle ; 1 scant teaspoonful for horses ; 20 drops for sheep; 10 drops for pigs. This ;s a very good blood tonic and is good for animals in a rundown condition. It will also stop looseness of the bowels. It is usually mixed with the food.

Corrosive Sublimate. - Use 1 small drop in three or four big tablespoonfuls of water. Very good as an antiseptic and for disinfection. It is very poisonous, so should be handled with great care.

Creolin. - Use 1 teaspoonful to a pint of water. Good especially where quantities are used. Antiseptic action. Many farmers use it as a mange cure and for lice.

Digitalis. - Use 20 to 30 drops for cattle ; 10 to 20 drops for horses ; 5 drops for sheep and hogs. This is one of the five most valuable medical drugs. Very good as a quieter, soothing pain and quieting the nerves.

Epsom Salts. - Use 1 to 2 pounds according to size, for cattle; 1 pound for horses ; 3 to 5 ounces for sheep and hogs. This is very effectively used as a purgative. Dissolve salts in warm water and give as a drench.

Fenugreek. - Use 2 to 6 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 1 to 5 tablespoonfuls for horses; 1 to \l/2 tablespoonfuls for sheep and hogs. This is a good ingredient usually found in stock foods. It is a good stimulant.

Gentian Root. - Use 4 level teaspoonfuls (powdered) for cattle; 2 level teaspoonfuls for horses ; l/2 teaspoonful for sheep and hogs. This is one of the most useful of farm drugs. In many localities it can be dug from the woods. It is used as a bitter tonic and especially in condition powders.

Ginger. - Use 2 good tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 1 good tablespoonful for horses ; 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for sheep and hogs. Very good as a stimulant and to relieve sickness of the stomach. Reduces gas if combined with soda.

Glauber's Salts. - Use 1 to 2 pounds for cattle; 1 pound for horses; 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls for sheep and hogs. Very good purgative for all animals that have two or more stomachs. It is dissolved in water and given as a drench.

Iodine. - Use in tincture vform, 30 drops or a scant half teaspoonful for cattle; 20 drops for horses; 10 to 15 drops for sheep and hogs. Good application for diminishing swellings, wind-puffs and ringworms. Very good as a blood purifier.

Jamaica Ginger. - Use 2 ounces for cattle ; 2 big tablespoonf uls for horses ; 1 tablespoon ful for sheep and hogs. This is an excellent stimulant and can be used in the place of alcohol or whiskey. Can be used in combination with other medicines where whiskey or alcohol was formerly used. Very good for stomach troubles. The best way to give this is in milk.

Juniper Berries. - Use 2 to 5 tablespoonfuls for cattle ; 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls for horses ; 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls for sheep and hogs. These are good for increasing the flow of urine and sweating.

Kerosene. - Use 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls in a cup of olive or linseed oil for cattle; 2 tablespoonfuls in linseed oil or sweet oil for horses. Very good given internally for worms and externally to blister or to cleanse deep cuts and wounds. Has the tendency to heal a wound from the innermost surface. Keeps away flies.

Lard. - Use 1 pint of warm lard for cattle ; 1 pint for horses ; 1 cupful for sheep or hogs. Given internally to relieve bloat, indigestion and constipation. Externally it may be mixed with turpentine, kerosene or cantharides for sores or blisters.

Lime. - Use 2 tablespoonfuls for cattle ; l/> to 1 tablespoonful for horses, YT. teaspoonful for sheep and hogs. This is good for strengthening the bones in animals. When used in liquid form mix with fresh water and allow to settle. Very good as a disinfectant and can be sprinkled about in the dry form.

Linseed Oil, Raw. - Use 1 to ll/2 quarts for cattle; ^ to 1 quart for horses; 1 to 2 cupfuls for sheep and hogs. This is used as a purgative and is very soothing and healing to the bowels. It is used as a drench and in combination with other medicines.

Mustard. - Use as an emetic and especially for poulticing to draw out inflammation. Can be applied to any part of the animal's body as a counterirritant.

Nux Vomica. - Use 2 teaspoonfuls for cattle; 1 level teaspoonful for horses; 10 to 15 grains or a little on the tip of a small spoon for sheep and hogs. This is poisonous, but is used for animals in a rundown condition. Very good when used in condition powders. Acts as a stimulant.

Peppermint, Essence of. - Use l/2 teaspoonful for cattle; 20 drops for horses ; 5 to 10 drops for sheep and pigs. Give in warm water with sugar. Used in colic and indigestion for pains in the stomach.

Resin. - Use y2 to 1 tablespoonful for cattle; 5 teaspoonfuls for horses; 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for sheep and hogs. This has a very good effect on the kidneys of all animals and is quite often used as one of the ingredients in condition powders and stock foods. This is given in the ground or powdered form.

Saltpeter. - Use 2 to 3 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 2 tablespoonfuls for horses ; 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls for sheep and hogs. Stimulates kidneys, reduces fever and watery swellings. Good blood purifier.

Sulphur. - Use 1 tablospoonful for cattle; I tablespoonfnl for horse to 1 teaspoonful for sheep and pijjs. This is good for lice, internally or externally, and a blood purifier.

Sweet Spirits of Nitre. - Use 4 to 6 good tablespoonfuls for cattle; 2 to 1 tablespoonfuls for horses; 2 to 4 teaspoonfuls for sheep and ho^s. This sin mid always be kept on the farm. It is very good for sudden attacks of colic, indigestion, inflammation of the kidneys and reduces fever.

Turpentine. - Use 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls for cattle; 1 to 4 tablespoonfuls for horses, 1 to 3 teaspoonfuls for sheep and hogs. This is fine for colic, worms, bloat, and is good as a stimulant or externally as a liniment. It can be mixed with lard if applied to a wound.

Bees

The bee industry is becoming one of the profitable and interesting occupations for people on small farms, and as "extra" work for the boys and girls on the farm. There is a great opportunity for development. As the industry itself is so little known, many fine articles which are written do not reach the people who wish to read them. Such topics - as "Beginning with Bees," "Wintering," "Feeding and Breeding," "Diseases of Bees," as well as articles on Honey, Combinations of Bees and Poultry, Bee Outfits, etc., can be obtained from specialists in this line. The Government has a number of good documents. Various State Experiment Stations are good sources. A very well recognized organization that takes pleasure in the distribution of bee literature and information is the A. T. Ropt Bee Company of Medina, Ohio.

MANY stockmen enjoy having a more or less complete library of books treating in detail and at length the numerous subjects and phases of live stock husbandry. A few of the best books on important subjects and two of the most generally read live stock periodicals follow. The publishers of "The Stock Book," will gladly help you to secure them :

"Types and Breeds of Farm Animals," Plumb. "Judging Farm Animals," Plumb. "Breeding Farm Animals," Mumford. "Feeds and Feeding," Henry and Morrison. "Dairy Cattle and Milk Production," Eckles. "Beef Cattle Production," Mumford. "Pork Production," Day. "Sheep Management," Kleinheinz. "Horse Production," Gay.

Live Stock Periodicals Glossary

Bacterial - Pertaining to or consisting of bacteria in the widest sense ; resulting from or caused by bacteria. Bacterial - Resembling bacteria.

Carbohydrates - Vegetables containing fats. Carbolized - Filled with carbolic acid. Carbonaceous - Containing or composed of carbon. Carunculations - Fleshy elevation of surface. Cast - To throw.

Catalpa - Genus of American and East Indian trees. Cauterize - To burn over. Cellulose - Containing cells. Centrifugal - Radiating from center. Chime - Edge or border. Chufas (pi. of chufa) - A kind of sedge of southern Europe. It produces small

Coagulate - To curdle ; clot ; congeal ; to form into a compact mass. Collards - A variety of kale, used as a green vegetable. Found mainly in

Colocynth - A drastic cathartic, causing a watery discharge. Colostrum - The first milk of a mammal after giving birth. Combustible - That may be set on fire and burned.

Glossary 417

Convalescence - The period of recovery after disease. Copulation - Sexual connection. Correlation - A mutual or reciprocal relation, as of part to part, or of parts

Culms - Jointed stems of grass which are usually hollow except at the nodes. Curbs - An inclosing frame, border or edging. An edging of upright stone

Erysipelatous - Pertaining to or of the nature of erysipelas. Escutcheon - Any shield-shaped surface or device. Essential - Necessary ; substantial. Eucalyptus - A tree native of Austria and Tasmania ; Eucalyptus oil made

Eustachian Tube - Canal to supply air to part of ear. Evacuation - Defecation ; the act of voiding. Excreta - Waste matter eliminated from the body. Excretion - The discharged waste products of the body. Expectoration - The expulsion of the secretions from the chest. Extenuating - Diminishing.

Glossary 419

the leaves to lose color and die. Fundamental - Essential ; indispensable. Fungicides - Any substances that destroy fungi. Fungoid - Character of fungus.

Girdled - Enclosed; bound with a belt or sash. Glaciated - Acted upon by ice and snow. Globular - Globe-shaped. Glucose - A syrup obtained by imperfect conversion of starch into sugar.

Inoculated - (Soil) Having introduced special forms of micro organisms by means of infected soil or pure cultures to promote fixation and assimilation of free nitrogen and other beneficial activities.

Glossary 421

Mottler - A brush used in mottling. Mulch - A covering of the soil with any loose material. Mummies - The embalmed bodies of human beings or sacred animals. Muriade - A chloride.

the genus Tropaeolum. Neutralize - To render ineffective. Neutralizing - Checking the action of an agent. Nitrifying - Combining or treating with nitrogen. Nitrogenous - Containing nitrogen. Non-symboliotic - Not mutual.

Glossary 423

same piece of land before it is again planted with the original crop. Roughage - Coarse fodder; any rough or coarse substance. Rumen - Largest stomach of cow or sheep.

Seasonal - Pertaining to a season. Sedative - Soothing insidiously ; treacherously. Sedentary - Occupied in sitting. Sedimentary - Having the character of sediment. Sedimentation - Act or process of depositing sediment. Semi-arid - Half barren.

Septic - A substance that promotes putrefaction. Sequela (pi.) Sequelae - Followers, results. Shanks - The lower part of the leg. Shot (Surveying) - Range in general. Shucks - Husks ; bundles of sheaves. Silt - Soil.

Sludge - Material from waste soap, liquors or wool-scouring industries. Sludge - Mud; mire; slush; to cover or fill in with soft mud or mire. Soiling Crops - Those that enrich the soil for succeeding crops, such as the

Glossary 425

Velocity - Swiftness ; speed ; to cover or fill in with soft mud or mire. Vertebrae - One of the segmented portions of the spinal column. Vesicles - Small blisters. Vetch - A fabaceous plant ; like a bean. Viability - Ability to live. Viability - Being capable of living. Virus - A slimy or poisonous liquid. Med: The poison or contagium of

Viscous - A gummy substance produced in glutinous fermentation. Vitrified - Turned or converted into glass ; to resemble glass. Vogue - Fashion ; style ; mode. To row ; to soil. Voided - Cleared or vacated. Voracious - Greedy ; hoggish.

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Production of Pure Bred Beef Cattle. 45 Production, Records of, Sure Test.... 23 Production of Stockers and Feeders... 45 Profit-Producing Cows 15