Madison City (part 4 of 20)

" I have twice visited Prairie du Sac, a settlement beautifully located on the borders of the Wisconsin river, some thirty miles northwest of Madison. Besides preaching here, I, by a special request, delivered a temperance address to a very atten¬ tive audience. I am, however, uncertain whether we will be able to succeed at this place in effecting the organization of a church, as several of the inhabitants, being Presbyterians, are strongly prejudiced in favor of this sister denomination.

"I have hitherto continued, and design to continue my ser¬ vices at Sun Prairie, a settlement twelve miles northeast from this place. This part of the country is admirably adapted for a dense population, and is now growing rapidly. The people here are very anxious to enjoy the preached gospel; and, so far as I have been able to ascertain, they constitute a moral popu¬ lation. Several heads of families are members of different churches; and how far time may accomplish unity of feeling in regard to their views of religion, remains to be developed.

" It is expected that in my first reports I should give a de¬ tailed account of men and things as I find them, for the infor¬ mation of our friends at the east. It is due to this community to state that intemperance does not prevail here to the same extent that it does in New York; while profanity and Sabbath breaking are prevailing vices - at least- in many places. * *

"I have already received several communications from my friends at the east. I expect many of them will emigrate in the spring. Thus materials for new organizations will be fur¬ nished, and as time rolls on, treasures of moral worth and true piety will enrich and gladden our land. I hope we may have your constant prayers, that the Great Head of the Church would make us doubly useful, not only in promoting the ex¬ ternal order of the Church, but especially in the conversion of souls. I am, respectfully yours in the Lord,

On the 26th of November, Abner Nichols and J. George advertised that they had opened the Madison Exchange on Doty's corner, between the American and Madison Hotels, and had purchased a splendid billiard table, etc., and that gentlemen annoyed by the growl of the 44 Tiger" could find comfortable accommodations at the Exchange, where "Uncle George ,r would at all times be in readiness to attend to their wants.

On the 26th of December, a meeting of printers was called to consider the expediency of procuring an act of incorporation for the Madison Typographical Society, of which Geo. Hyer was Secretary.

Rev. Dr. Alfred Brunson, of Prairie du Chien, writing of his first visit to Madison as a member of the Legislature of 1840-1, says: 44 At that time there was a wagon stage running from the Capitol east and west three times a week in summer, and on runners in the winter. The one going west, went by Mineral Point and Platteville to Galena, and of course did not reach Prairie du Chien, the place of my residence. Our only means of reaching Madison was by private or hired conveyance. In my first visit, myself and several others hired a sleigh and and driver. Lodging places were few and far between, and we had to fix our stages of day's travel accordingly, requiring two nights out to make the one hundred miles. The only houses on the road were log cabins, not very large, and if the company was large, lodgings were in heaps, and mostly on the floor.

44 The road we traveled, till within sixteen miles of Madison,, was the old Military road leading from Fort Crawford (Prairie du Chien), to Fort Winnebago (Portage City), on the dividing ridge between the waters flowing into the Wisconsin river oil the north, and those flowing south into the Grant, Platte, Pecatonica and Sugar rivers. This road was one of the best natral roads I ever saw. After crossing the Wisconsin we had no water to cross ten feet wide in the whole distance; nor was there a bridge or a foot of dugway except between the

Wisconsin and the ridge. The road of course had to wind in a serpentine course to keep the ridge, and up and down the ra¬ vines to reach and descend from the ridge. Wild deer and other game were plenty along the road.

44 The old and first capitol was then in use, and for the time was considerable of a building. It served not only for legisla¬ tion, hut for courts, plays, shows and for Divine worship, there being no other place in the town where such assemblages could be accommodated. The dwellings, stores and shops were in "magnificent distances," so much so, that pigs and poultry were in little danger of getting so mixed as to lose their iden¬ tity.

44 I think there were but two hotels - the old American and the Madison. The American (afterwards burned down), stood on the site of the present 44 Park Savings Bank." It was of wood, two stories above the basement, with a spacious attic; and such was the crowd when the Legislature was in session, that the attic (all in one room), was filled with beds on the floor to accommodade lodgers, and it got the cognomen of the 44 School Section." The Madison Hotel was not so large, but equally crowded, and besides these, every private house that possibly could accommodate boarders, was filled to overflowing. The Territory was generally well represented on such occasions, and every one had 44 an ax to grind." I boarded at a private house near the Third Lake.

44 The streets and sidewalks were not in their present state of repair, and in soft weather locomotion was not a desirable ex-< ercise. We had some thaws that winter that would do credit to a more southern and eastern climate ; a thing seldom seen in Wisconsin, and the mud and slush were such as to call for boats and canoes almost, to get from one place to another. A jocose member of the Assembly offered an amendment to a bill to pre¬ vent obstructions in the street leading from the Park to the Third Lake, that would prevent the fish from coming up the street to the Park.

lature was to create as many offices as possible, so as to give a place to partisan favorites and friends to pay them for election¬ eering, and to secure their votes at future elections; also to get as much money as possible out of " Uncle Sam," to circulate in the country. I objected to this course, on the ground of need¬ less expense, and that it was constituting a precedent for our future State that would be a burden when we had to foot the bills ourselves. But when the vote was taken, I found myself in a slim minority.

" At the close of the session, it vras found that considerable stationery that had been bought for the use of the Legislature at the public expense was remaining, affording an opportunity for another " steal," and a motion was made to distribute it among the members. This I also opposed, as being improper, uujust and dishonest, but I, with a few others, were voted down. It was alleged that preceding Legislatures had done so, and that the present one had the same right; and when my share was laid upon my desk, I objected to receiving it, but was told that it could not be returned to the secretary's office and be retained for another year, and if it was so returned, it would be stolen before the year rolled round, and that if I did not take it, others would. This policy was the beginning of that system which was afterwards known as the u Forty Thieves," who ruled the Territory and the State for years, on the prin¬ ciple " to the victor belong the spoils." u Bad as this Legislature was in this and some other respects, the citizens of the place said it was a great improvement upon its predecessors. Whether this was a fact, or a mere compli¬ ment of flattery, I had no means of knowing. The next ses¬ sion composed chiefly of the same men, was like unto the other.

Political hobbies were mounted and rode at John Gilpin speed. Log rolling was the order of the day. You help me and I will help you, was the ruling spirit of that body. Per¬ sonal or party interests were the motive power with a majority, and but few seemed to inquire whether a proposed measure was in itself right or wrong, but whether it would be for the interest of tlie party, himself, or his constituents; and the his¬ tory of legislation in both the Territory and State has not ex¬ hibited as much improvement in these respects as is desirable.

In those times when the Legislature assembled, it seemed to call together the worst elements of society. Faro banks, a thing called u the Tiger," and other gambling institutions, were said to exist, and to be run with great boldness, and in defiance of both moral and civil law, and many poor wights were said to be stripped of all the money they had. Bad whisky, in large quantities, was said to be consumed, much to the damage of the consumer. Lager beer had not then been inaugurated, but other vile drinks equally detrimental were said to be in common use. There were, however, some redeeming spirits in the place, both among citizens and visi¬ tors, and divine service was kept up in the capitol on . Sun¬ days, morning and evening, during the whole session with large attendance, the moral effects of which were quite visible.

We find but little information of the growth of Madison in 1841. The newspapers had but very little to say about local matters, but their columns were filled with articles on the political questions of the day. There appeared to be more in¬ terest in the merits and demerits of Gov. Jas. Duane Doty, and Gov. Henry Dodge, than in any other subject; both these gentlemen had their admirers as well their opponents. This state of feeling, unhappily, existed for a number of years.

From the report of the County Commissioners for the year ending January 14, 1841, we learn the receipts were $2,362.61, and the disbursements $1,912.09, balance in hands of the treas¬ urer $450.52, to meet outstanding orders of $409.96. The Com¬ missioners were, E. Peck, S. Mills and P. Brigham.

The National Hotel was erected this season on the corner of Main street and Washington avenue (the present site of the Yilas House) by Zenas H. Bird. It was a two storj^ framed building, and was used as a hotel, with a succession of land¬ lords, until about 1852, when it was purchased by Hon. E. B. Dean, Jr., and removed to lots 2 and 3, block 88, on Clymer street, where it now stands, and is used for a dwelling house.

Geo. Hyer, Esq., became associated with C. C. Sholes, in the publication of the Wisconsin Enquirer in the month of April, and was succeeded in February, 1842, by J. Gillett Knapp.

The National Anniversary was advertised to be celebrated as usual, the officers of the day as published, were David Brig¬ ham, President, N. F. Hyer and A. A. Bird, Vice Presidents, Julius T. Clark, Orator, Dr. T. M. Wilcox, Deader, and Wm. T. Sterling, Marshall. We do not find any notice of this cel¬ ebration, and suppose it was not much of an affair.

A contract to bridge the Catfish was awarded by the Board of County Commissioners, to Thos. Jackson, for $295.50, which was built during the summer.

The following named persons, with others, were residents of Madison and Dane county in 1841, as appears from their names attached to calls for political meetings in February and June: David Brigham, Jas. Morrison, E. Brigham, I. H. Palmer, Jesse A. Clark, David Wilder, Volney Moore, S. Clark, T. & D. Brezee, H. W. Potter, Oston Cook, Jacob George, L. Humphrey, S. H. Taylor, A. C. Dickinson, W. M. Taylor,. Nich. Smith, J. T. Clark, A. A. Bird, T. M Wilcox, S. Mills, P. W. Matts, E. Moore, H. Clark, A. Nichols, C* H. Bird, E. M. Williamson, A. Lull, W. W. Wyman, J. R. Barnard, Jas. O. Reeve, Cyrus Hill, Geo. L. Coates, W. G. Van Bergen, Wm. N. Seymour, John Catlin, N. T. Parkinson, Abel Rasdall, W. T. Sterling, John Stoner, Amos Harris, Horatio Catlin, Wm. C. Wells, C. C. Sholes,

* E. M. Williamson was a native of Bedford, Westchester county, New York, and born October 19, 1801. He came to Milwaukee, March 28,. 1840, and settled at Madison, which he still makes his home. He has held various offices under the Territorial organization; Deputy Register of Deeds, Deputy Sheriff, Justice of the Peace, County Surveyor and Clerk of the Board of County Commissioners. Since 1846 he has been engaged almost exclusively as Land Agent.

On the 22d of December, 1841, application was made to David Brigham, Jas. Morrison and Burk Fairchild, School Com¬ missioners for the county of Dane, to set off township 7, of range 9 east, to be organized as School District No. 1. This is believed to be the first action had relative to th^ organization of schools under Territorial laws, in Dane county; the applica¬ tion was signed by Dr. Almon Lull, Ira W. Bird, E. Quivey,, Peter W. Matts and Nicholas Smith. The commissioners, took the same in consideration, and on the 25th reported fav¬ orably, and set off the territory described as district No. 1. On January 24, the district petitioned the commissioners to en¬ large the district by including town 8, which was attached February 15.

1842. On the 11th of February, Hon. Chas. C. P. Arndt, a member of the Council from the county of Brown, was killed by Hon. J. R. Vineyard, a member from Grant county. A discussion had arisen in the Council on a motion to reconsider a vote by which the nomination of E. S. Baker as Sheriff of Grant county was rejected a few days before. During the progress of the discussion, violent words passed between the two parties. The first, conceiving himself to have been in¬ sulted, approached Mr. Vineyard, after the adjournment, for the purpose of seeking an explanation. A slight rencontre then took place, when the latter drew a pistol from his pocket and fired. Mr. Arndt reeled for a few paces, then sunk on the floor, and almost instantly expired, having been shot through the heart. The funeral services were held at the Council Chamber, and the remains taken to Green Bay for interment.

Mr. Vineyard immediately surrendered himself to the Sher¬ iff, waived an examination, and was committed to jail. After a short confinement, he was brought before the Chief Justice of the Territory on a writ of habeas corpus , and admitted to bail. He was afterwards indicted for manslaughter, and was tried and acquitted. Immediately after the homicide, Vineyard sent his resignation to the Council, which refused to receive it or have it read, and immediately expelled him. No occur¬ rence ever happened in the Territory that caused more ex¬ citement than this event. Mr. Vineyard subsequently removed to California, and has since deceased.

On the 18th of February, 1842, the two houses of the Legis¬ lature elected John Y. Smith Commissioner of Public Build¬ ings. The wtfrk on the capitol was finished by Mr. Baxter the year following, and the fence placed around the square in 1842; the cedar posts having been cut partly on the banks of the lakes, and partly on the Wisconsin river.

The third newspaper established here was the Wisconsin Democrat. It was a six column weekly, and the first number was issued on the 18th of October, 1842. J. Gillett Knapp and John Delany, editors and proprietors. It was a radical Democratic State-Rights paper. It continued under those persons until February 9, 1843, when John P. Sheldon and George Hyer took possession. It was continued without fur¬ ther change until March 14, 1844, when it was suspended. The printing material was afterwards purchased and used for print¬ ing the Argus.

In May, 1842, Jas. Morrison, President, and Simeon Mills, Secretary, of the Board of Trustees of Madison Select Female School, announced that they had secured the services of Mrs. Gay as teacher.

" With the greatest pleasure, we have lately noticed several glowing descriptions of rapid improvements going on in neigh¬ boring towns. We heartily rejoice in the prosperity of our neighbors, and should certainly envy not their good fortune, even were we totally disregarded by the inconstant goddess in the distribution of her gifts. Happily, however, by dint of good fortune and the industry and enterprise of her citizens, Madison is going ahead. The improvements this season nearly, if not quite, equal all before. Facilities for the conve¬ nience and comfort of the inhabitants, as well as the accom¬ modation of the public, are progressing daily. Several fine buildings have been completed, while others for dwelling houses, shops, stores and various other purposes, are still going up, and will be finished in the course of the fall. The capitol square is being fenced and cleared of its rubbish, which adds much to the appearance of the town. Notwithstanding the hard times, the improvements have been larger, and business much better than the most sanguine among us anticipated. Quite a number of emigrants have settled around and among us, and our streets are daily thronged with strangers in pursuit of business or pleasure. Though we cannot boast of as great an increase in population, wealth or improvements as the lakeboard towns, and many other portions of the Territory, yet we can assure them, one and all, that we are gradually, steadily and surely coming up in the world. As it is the transaction of public business here which fills our streets with the greatest bustle and activity, everything is of course comparatively dor¬ mant during that portion of the year when neighboring towns are flowing with life and business. But the cups will soon turn, and while the lake towns are frozen up and idle, old Jack-frost will but increase our glee, and in turn make 1 our town' resound with the tumult of business, not surpassed by other parts of the Territory during the most favorable .season of the year."

The appearance of Madison in the early days of its history, while very beautiful in dry and pleasant weather, was far from attractive under different circumstances. C. C. Britt, Esq., of Portage City, has given the following anecdote as an illustra¬ tion:

" In the year 1842, or possibly 1843, Gen. Johh A. Browk, who afterwards became a well known citizen of our state, and his friend Dr. Goodhue, an English gentleman of high culture and skill, were residing at Rockford, Ill. Having heard much of the beauties and promise of Madison, they resolved to jour¬ ney thither and see with their own eyes if all they had heard was indeed true. Accordingly on a fine, summer's day they started on their tour of inspection, expecting, of course, to find something akin to the "promised land." Unfortunately for Madison, and to the chagrin of our tourists, the weather had become rainy on their arrival, and the highways very muddy. They sought shelter at the old " American," then kept by " Uncle Jimmy Morrisok," as he was familiarly called by every one in those days. The unpleasant weather continued for a day or two, and with slight intervals of sunshine. All travel¬ ers have observed the unpleasant hue that a rainy day will spread over otherwise pleasing scenery; so with our friends. But being men of determined character, and as they had come to see the town , they were not to be thwarted by foul weather; so they traversed the embryo city through streets and " across lots." In their rounds with such unpleasant sights as often greet the eye on a rainy day in frontier settlements - too much dram drinking, and an occasional stupid fellow taking a drunken snooze in the mud at the roadside. This was not peculiar to Madison alone, and they knew it, but combined with the mud and the rain, and the newness of the place and its surroundings - the lack of material improvements for a capitol city even at that day, all tended to impress our strangers very unfavorably, and particularly the worthy Doctor, accustomed as he had been to the refinements and comforts of his old English home; and as they sauntered along the shores of Fourth Lake, amusing themselves with casting pebbles into its bright waters, or skim¬ ming them on their placid surface after the manner of their boyhood, the Doctor became utterly silent and remained so for some time, evidently pondering upon some weighty matter. At last he turned suddenly to his companion, and with his finger pointing threateningly at him, exclaimed in words more ex¬ pressive than elegant, " Johm A! if you tell anybody that I ever to his hotel, accompanied of course with his chum. They im¬ mediately settled the reckoning with the landlord, and bade good bye to Madison, and started for home, perhaps as thoroughly disgusted with the place as it was possible for men of their ar- dent temperament to be. In after years, Gen. Brown would mirthfully relate this incident of his first visit to Madison, showing how unreliable it is to form impressions under unfa¬ vorable circumstances.1'

Mr. Britt further says he visited Madison some three years later, also in rainy weather, and he freely admits that the ap¬ pearance of the place even at that date was not sufficiently at¬ tractive, or its promise for improvement so good as to [induce him to make a settlement. Subsequently he moved here and made it his home for a brief period. The settlement of the town was greatly retarded, as has been heretofore stated, from the fact that all the desirable lots and lands in Madison and the country adjacent were owned by non-resident speculators, and could not be purchased except at prices largely in advance of their true value.

*John Y. Smith, was born in LeRay, Jefferson county, New York, Feb¬ ruary io, 1807. He was left an orphan, without means, at a very early age. He learned the trade of a carpenter, which he followed for several years. In 1828, at the age of 21 years, Mr. Smith came to Wisconsin, and first settled at Green Bay. He afterwards resided, for a brief period, in- Milwaukee, and in the county of Waukesha. He came to Madison in 1839, as Commissioner for the Building of the old Capitol. Considerable of the work upon that building was executed with his own hands. In 1843, he removed his family to this place. In the same year, the office of Commissioner was abolished, and that of Superintendent of Public Prop¬ erty established, and Mr. Smith was appointed the first incumbent of the new office, which position he filled till 1846. In this latter year, he built a residence on Clymer street, in this city, which he occupied till he moved to his farm some two miles into the country, about two years ago.

John Y. Smith, and Benjamin Holt. Mr. Smith assumed the editorial control of the paper, and in his hands it ranked high as an able Democrat¬ ic paper. In 1846, Major H. A. Tenney became associated with Mr. Smith in the editorial management of the Argus; and that paper became the leading organ of that faction of the Democratic party, then known as " Old Hunkers,'' and Mr. Smith was recognized as the soundest and ablest writer then in that party in the State. He remained in connection with this paper, till April, 1851, when he retired from it. After a few years, the Argus was discontinued for a time, but was revived in i860, and in winter of 1841, from Green Bay. On February 18, 1842, be was elected Commissioner of Public Buildings. He brought his family in July, 1848, and in 1846 erected his residence on the corner of Pinckney and Clymer streets.

Miss L. A. Smith advertised, June 7, to open a school in Mr, Parkinson's building. On the 12th of June a public meeting was called by I. Washington Bird, Clerk of School District Ho. 1, to vote a tax to build a school house.

J. P. B. McCabe, published in'the newspapers a census report of the village he had then completed; and that there were, on the 23d of June, 199 males, 143 females - total, 342; 71 build¬ ings, including 2 brick buildings of three stories; 4 church organizations: Congregational, Catholic, Methodist and Pres¬ byterian, with occasional services at the capitol ; 2 select schools, 11 attorneys, 1 physician, 2 justices of the peace, 5 hotels, 3 milliners, 1 dressmaker, 17 carpenters and joiners, 2 printing offices, 3 stores, 2 lumber dealers, 3 surveyors, 1 livery stable, 1 cabinet maker, 1 saddler, 1 baker, 2 painters, 2 masons, 1 locksmith, 3 blacksmiths, 2 shoe shops, 1 wagon maker, 1 watchmaker, 1 plaster and 1 brick manufacturer.

The celebration on July 4 was suitably observed. Theadvertised programme was: E. Brigham, President; J. G* Knapp, Reader; J. T. Clark, Poet; Col. A. P. Field, Orator,. Gideon Low, W. C. Wells, Rufus Brown, Ed. Campbell, J. Catlin, J. Larkin, A. Dunning, Isaac H. Palmer and W. B. Slaughter, Vice Presidents; A. Bird, Marshal; S. Cat¬ lin, Assistant Marshal. Col. Field not being able to deliver the oration, Alex. L. Collins discharged that duty. Toasts were given by S. Mills, P. W. Matts, D. Brigham, J. T. Wil¬ son, N. W. Dean, B. Shackleford, E. Brigham, J. G. Knapp, J. Morrison, Geo. Vroman, D. G. Adams and H. W. Potter.

1861, Mr. Smith again became connected with it editorially, and continued about a year, when its publication was finally abandoned. Since that time Mr. Smith has had no permanent connection with the editorial depart¬ ment of any paper. He died at Madison May 5, 1874, aged 67 years.

David Brigham, Esq., died at Madison, August 16, 1843, aged 57 years. He was an elder brother of Col. Ebenezer Brigham of Blue Mounds, and removed to this place in 1839. He was a graduate of Harvard university 1810, was tutor in Bowdoin college, and subsequently read law. In 1818 became established in practice at* Greenfield, Mass., where he married his wife who is still living at Madison with her daughter, Mrs. H. G. Bliss. Mr. Brigham was a member and officer of the Congregational church, and at his death was the senior memher of the bar. The Dane county bar, at a meeting held on the 17th of August, passed suitable resolutions on his decease, testifying their respect and regard for their deceased associate, at which meeting Alex. L. Collins, Esq., was Chairman, and L. F. Kellogg, Esq., Secretary. Remarks were made by Col. A. P. Field, Thos. W. Sutherland and Alex. Botkin, Esqrs. His son, J. Ripley Brigham, Esq., resided at Madison until 1851, when he removed to Milwaukee, where he is an attorney and counselor.

The Kentucky' House, subsequently known as the City Hotel,' was commenced in the fall of 1843, and completed in 1845, and was situated on the corner of King and Webster streets, on lot 9 block 107. It was 30 by 45 feet with an ell of 30 feet for dining room and kitchen, two stories high, and would accommodate 50 or 60 persons. It was built by Wil¬ liam M. Rasdall* (who came in the spring of 1842). The

* William M. Rasdall was born in the town of Bowling Green, Warren county, state of Kentucky, on the ist day of April, 1819, and educated in the same town. His brother, Darius Rasdall, and himself carried on thebusiness of farming, and run a grist mill together three years. Mr. Ras¬ dall came to Wisconsin in 1842, and took up his residence in Madison^ where he carried on the livery business for about two years, and com¬ menced building the City Hotel. He was appointed Deputy Sheriff and Jailer of the county, which offices he held for four years, terminating in 1849, when he went to California accompanied by a citizen of Madison. On his arrival there he commenced the business of mining, in which he continued until 1855, when he returned to Madison. He carried on the- house had a variety of landlords; a Mr. McCord stayed a year and a half. He was succeeded by Mr. Rasdall, who con¬ tinued it till 1849, when he went to California. He was fol¬ lowed by two Mr. Ott's, by Messrs. Penrith, Dewet, Carter, VanWie and Cutter. On Mr. Rasd all's return he kept it three years and seven months, when he was succeeded by Scollans & Tiernay. The building was destroyed by fire December 14, 1865.

At the election in October, W. A. Wheeler, A. W. Dickin¬ son, and W. H. Hubbard, were elected County Commissioners; Steptoe Catlin, Clerk of Board of Supervisors; Ira W. Bird, Register of Deeds; G. P. Delaplaine, Collector and Peter W. Matts, Treasurer.

A writer in the Madison Enquirer, of February 26, 1843, evidently a new-comer, has a long article on the prospects of the Territory, and, being of a poetical temperament, is quite enthusiastic on the present condition and the future of Madison, comparing it with what it was in the past. The following ex¬ tracts are made, which are to be taken with some degree of al¬ lowance :

" Where this lovely village now stands, on the shores of these placid lakes, not many years since were clustered the wigwams of the savage tribe, and the beaver and otter plunged and .sported undisturbed in the tranquil water. No sound at the evening hour disturbed the solemn silence of the scene, save the plaintive cry of the wish-ton-wish and the long drawn and wild cry of the loon rose from the bosom of the slumber¬ ing wave, like the low wail from the spirit-land - the solitary hunter leaning on his bow, wrapped in the contemplation of the far-ofi* happy hunting grounds of his sires, bent his dark eye from some gently rising hill on the glorious and ever vary¬ ing hues of our western summer; and as the light and feathery

City Hotel for three years, and subsequently the Rasdall House. Since then he has opened another building under the same name on Henry street, near the Dane County Court House.

vapors shone in the golden rays from the retiring orb, and stretching afar off in the blue expanse, varied their hues to the violet, deep purple and molten silver - fancied he heard the voices of his sires and the chieftains of other days inspiring him to deeds of heroism and fame.

"How sudden the transition from such scenes as Cooper speaks of in his narratives of the West, to that of our village of Madison, where the clank of the saw-mill, the sound of the blacksmith's anvil, the noise ot the hammer and the saw are heard throughout the day, while the lofty capitol, house of en¬ tertainment, and neat and tasteful private residences, exhibit all the evidences of a place settled for many years ; while the merchant, with his well filled store, offers to the inhabitant all the comforts and luxuries of the distant seaport.

" Soon we also shall have our crowded streets, thoroughfares and warehouses, for the spirit is among our inhabitants to do all this, and in a shorter time than our eastern neighbors would judge it possible. Already preparations have been made for a handsome brick hotel to be erected near the public square, an academy will shortly be built on or near the same grounds, also of brick or stone; arrangements have been made by the Rev. Martin Kundig, of Milwaukee, a Catholic clergyman of distinction, and a former resident of Detroit, for the erection of a handsome church in the centre of the village. The en¬ ergy with which his congregation are now at work will soon furnish them with a commodious and elegant place of worship.

"From our office window we see the high dome of the capi¬ tol glancing like silver in the sun's rays, as its bright metal covering reflects the light, and the large park of many acres, encompassed by a neat painted paling, is tastefully adorned with clumps of the burr oak carefully trimmed, while the level and well-kept lawn is intersected with graveled walks leading to the different ornamental gates of the enclosure.

" The capitol is a splendid building of yellow stone. The hall is lofty and spacious, with wide corridors, and there is am¬ ple light from the dome, which is very similar to that of the New York Exchange. The chambers for the Legislature are large, with high ceilings, and handsomely finished, with every accommodation for the members. The offices of the Supreme Court are in this building; Secretary's chamber; and the Pub¬ lic Library, well selected, and containing many thousand vol¬ umes of law and miscellany. In this building, the Rev. J. M. Clark, a minister of the Congregational Church, preaches to a large and respectable audience.

" The capitol is not yet completed in all its details, and much ornamental work remains to be done; but workmen are con¬ stantly employed on it, and, before many months elapse, we can show our eastern visitors something that any village or city may well be proud of."

The u Wisconsin Argus " was the title of the fourth newspa¬ per issued at Madison. It was published by Simeon Mills, John Y. Smith and Benjamin Holt, under the firm of S. Mills & Co. The first number appeared the 22d of April, 1844. Mr. Smith had the entire control of the editorial department. It was a neatly printed six column weekly, edited with ability, and bore at its mast head the names of Polk and Dallas. In its democracy, at this time, it was emphatically in favor of free trade, a hard-money currency, etc. In December, 1846, H. A. Tenney, Esq., who had been connected with the Jeffersonian , at Galena, Illinois, purchased an interest in the establishment, and became a joint editor with Mr. Smith - S. Mills & Co. continuing as publishers.

At the election for county officers, September 26, 1846, the Whig party ticket was elected, viz: I. Washington Bird, Sheriff; E. Brigham, W. A. Webb and L. Sanger, County Commissioners; G. T. Long, Register of Deeds; Jesse A. Clark, Clerk of Board of Supervisors; N. W. Dean, Coroner; P. W. Matts, Treasurer, and E. Burdick (Dem.), Surveyor. John Catlin, who had been Postmaster since August 9, 1837, resigned August 20, 1844, and David Holt, Jr., was ap¬ pointed by the President.

On the 7th of November the Wisconsin Argus says, " our town, the trade of which two or three years ago would scarcely support a single shop on a small scale, now contains three es- tablishments, each doing a fair, living business. The stores re¬ ferred to were Finch & Blanchard, J. D. Weston and Dean & Co. Mr. R. F. Wilson, now of Eau Claire, who was living here in 1844, says that the wolves were abundant in and ad¬ joining the Capitol Park. It will be remembered that at this date the village was only staked out, and land marks difficult in some places to find, owing to the luxurious growth of hazlebrush and young timber, and that firewood was so abundant that any one could procure his winter's supply without leaving the limits of the village, and more frequently a short distance from his own residence, in the public streets.

The number of pupils in the public schools had, at this date, 1844, so largely increased, and the population so augmented that it was determined to lengthen the school term, which had heretofore been of three and four months duration, and con¬ tinue the school during the year. Accordingly, in the spring of this year, Mr. David H. Wright of this city, took charge of the school, and continued it until the spring of 1845. The school now numbered nearly one hundred pupils, the room being filled to its utmost capacity. A novel contrivance in the school room for the purpose of relieving its crowded state, de¬ serves a passing notice. This consisted of a long shelf built across the end of the room, and above the door, to which a lad¬ der at one end gave access. This shelf was used for " stowing away " the smaller boys and girls. To save time, the teacher frequently caught the juveniles in hand, and by an expert toss, deposited them in their seat in " the gallery." In the summer of 1845, Miss Smedley taught one term which finished the course of discipline in this building. In the summer of this year another school house was built, now known as the " Little Brick," on Butler street, near Washington avenue. This was built of bricks, and divided by partition into two rooms to accommodate two teachers. It was large and commodious for the time. A. A. Bird was the contractor; the house is es¬ timated to have cost $1,000. Jerome R. Brigham, now of Mil¬ waukee, was the first teacher, in the fall of 1845 and winter following, and was succeeded by Royal Buck who continued two 3rears.

An act of the Territorial Legislature was passed and ap¬ proved, January 26, 1844, incorporating the Madison Academy: J. D. Weston, David Irwin, Simeon Mills, A. A. Bird, John Gatlin, A. L. Collins, W. W. Wyman, J. Y. Smith and J. G. Knapp, incorporators; and on February 22, 1845, an act was approved appropriating and allowing the county of Dane the sum of $2,616, being the amount expended by said county in the completion of the capitol, payable out of any money in the Territorial treasury: provided, that the said sum shall be paid to the Board of County Commissioners of said county, and shall be by them appropriated exclusively for the purpose of building an academy in the village of Madison; the Territory, by payment of said sum, fully discharged from all liability for the money thus expended. Out of this amount the sum of $400 was appropriated to A. A. Bird, the contractor. By the conditions of the act, a vote of the citizens of Madison was re¬ quired to be taken on the matter, subject to their approval. The village having voted in favor of receiving said sum, an amendatory act was passed Februarj^ 3, 1846, authorizing the Madison Academy to receive from said county of Dane the amount referred to.

On the 5th of December, of this year (1845), a public meet¬ ing was held to draft an act of incorporation of the village, of which meeting C. D. Finch was Chairman, and Simeon Mills Secretary. It was resolved that S. Mills, S. F. Blanchard, John Catlin and Jas. Morrison be such committee.

At the next session of the Legislature an act of incorpora¬ tion was passed, approved February 3, 1846. Col. Alex. Bot¬ kin* became a resident this year. Col. J. C. Fairchild, a

* Col. Alex. Botkin, was born in Kentucky in 1801. At an early age he removed to Ohio, and from thence to Alton, Ill., in 1832. He was a Jus¬ tice of the Peace at the time of the Lovejoy riots, and took an active part to preserve law and order. He came to Madison, Wisconsin, in 1841, as Assistant Secretary of State under the Territory, and was for awhile a law partner of Col. Alex. P. Field. Col. Botkin was a member of the Territo¬ rial Assembly of 1847 and 1848, State Senator 1849, 1850, and of the As¬ sembly 1852. He was a candidate for the first Constitutional Convention of 1846, but was defeated by Hon. John Y. Smith, and was voted for by the well known citizen (now deceased), came in 1846, and soon after erected a two-story brick building, corner of Wisconsin avenue and Wilson street. This was regarded as one of the handsomest residences at the time in the village.

On the 24th of March, X. Jordan, Secretary of the Roman Catholic Church, publishes that the foundation of the church building would soon be laid, and solicits assistance.

June 24, notice was given of a Masonic celebration of the an¬ niversary of St. John, signed by A. A. Bird, G. P. Delaplaine, E. B. Dean, Jr., and B. Shackleford, Committee. The oration was delivered by Rev. S. McHugh. Madison Lodge No. 5 was organized by a dispensation from the Grand Master, June 4, 1844, with the following officers : John Catlin, W M.; David Holt, S. W., and A. Bird, J. W. Martin G. VanBergen, Treas¬ urer, B. Shackelford, Secretary, W. W. Steward, S. D., Da¬ vid Hyer, Tyler. From a report to the Grand Lodge in 1845, the members composing the Lodge were: J. A. Clark, E. B, Dean, W. N. Seymour, A. M. Badger, Alex. Botkin, R. T. Davis, E. Clewitt, Wm. Collins, S. F. Blanchard and Daniel M. Holt, Master Masons; Julius T. Clark, G. P. Delaplaine, Josiah Harlow, Fellow Craft, and Ira. W. Hull entered ap¬ prentice.

On the 19th of December, 1845, the Rev. Stephen McHugh ac¬ cepted a call, and immediately took measures for the organiza¬ tion of a parish under the title of " Grace Church, Madison." During his ministry, the " Ladies1 Episcopal Benevolent Soci¬ ety," having, by their efforts, raised the sum of one huudred and fifty dollars, purchased the two lots now owned and occu¬ pied by the church.

The number of communicants was then twenty-five; among the names of the members were Mr. and Mrs. J. G. Knapp, Mr. and Mrs. A. L. Collins, Mrs. Nelson Emmons, Mrs. John Catlin,

Mrs. Andrus Viall, Mrs. P. W. Matts, Mrs. Julius T. Clark, the two Misses McHugh. A. L. Collins and J. G. Knapp, Wardens, and Beriah Brown, Vestryman.

In the summer of 1847, Rev. Mr. McHugh resigned, and on the 11th of August, 1850, a call was presented to the Rev. W. H. Woodward, of Pontiac, Mich., who took charge of the par¬ ish, September 22, 1850. On the 6th November of said year, a brick house was commenced on the church lots intended for a parsonage, and temporarily as a place of worship. On Christ¬ mas day, Divine worship was first held in the building, and communion administered to fourteen persons. On Easter Mon¬ day, 1851, the following persons were elected to the vestry: J. H. Lathrop, LL.D., Senior Warden, P. B. Kissam, Junior Warden, C. Abbott, N. S. Emmons, Beriah Brown, Jacob Kniffen, Vestrymen. At a meeting of the Vestry, May 7, 1851, P. B. Kissam, J. Catlin and N. S. Emmons were elected Delegates to the Convention. Rev. Mr. Woodward resigned the charge of the parish November 14, 1851. No further ser¬ vices were held till June 13, 1852, when Rev. Hugh M. Thomp¬ son officiated, and on the 25th of the same month was elected as Rector. Rev. Mr. Thompson subsequently resigned, and the Rev. Henry P. Powers officiated from October, 1853, to De¬ cember, 1854.

"In the summer of 1843, having received the appointment of Receiver of Public Moneys at Mineral Point, Wisconsin Territory, I proceeded thither, and, in the first discharge of my official duties, held a public land sale in the month of Oc¬ tober. I took a steamer 'at Buffalo, N. Y., and, after a safe and pleasant trip, landed at the nice little village of Milwaukee. From thence, took early stages via Watertown, to the embryo village of the lakes, in the town of Madison, where we spent the Sabbath in calling upon the most notable men, among whom was the late Gov. James D. Doty, one of nature's truest noblemen, Hon. Alexander L. Collins, Geo. B. Smith, Thomas J. Sutherland, J. G. Knapp, Simeon Mills, A. A.

Bird, and many others of the early settlers, some of them men of merit and becoming modesty, with a smart sprinkling of would-be limbs of the law, who were then resident here, and all striving, with the small means they then possessed, to make Madison the grand point for settlement to men of enterprise and capital.

" Madison, at this time, was the veriest representation of a wilderness, which required but the hand of industry to cause her to bud and blossom as the rose in the valley. Arriving at my destination, I settled down to business, and in the society of a people, although much feared and but little loved at a dis¬ tance, whom I soon learned to admire for their native frank¬ ness and good feeling, if not for their morality and good breeding. The character of the miners - being principally Cornish - was not that of a strictly mild and moral people, still they possessed and exercised some redeeming qualities, among which, to their praise be it spoken, was their uniform attendance, with their families, at the churches on Sabbath mornings; although, in the afternoons, they employed them¬ selves in various recreations, but mainly in card playing and drinking. While I was living here, Dr. Pulford and others had occasion to send east for a rector to take charge of the Protestant Episcopal Church, and for this purpose we sent an invitation to a young clergyman in western New York, who lost no time in answering, desiring to know which was best - to come by steamboat, or to drive his horse and buggy up the lakes. After every possible assurance that the good character of the people would afford ample protection to all new-comers, the reverend gentleman came with a friend, and, when near the village proper, on being informed that they must pass through a rather low and dangerous place in the suburbs, called 1 Shake-rag ,' they became seriously alarmed, which alarm was greatly enhanced by the darkness of the night; and so they put themselves in an attitude of defense, and having primed and cocked their pistols, the one drove the team, with a pistol pointed ahead in one hand, while the other reversed his position and kept a sharp lookout for any invasion in the rear, and in this condition they at last tremulously, but safely, ar¬ rived at the domicil of the writer, more scared than hurt, 'and as free from danger or harm as could be.

"Having received intelligence of the death of one of my children, I left Mineral Point for the home of my family, in Ontario county, western New York, and arrived at Detroit, via Galena and Chicago, by stages, just in time, in November, for the last steamer to Buffalo that fall, where we landed safely af¬ ter a very boisterous and dangerous voyage on Lake Erie. Chi¬ cago, at this time, was a mere sea of mud and water, and, from the only respectable hotel there, passengers for the east had to wade ankle deep through the street to reach the steamer, then plying to St. Joe, in Michigan, from whence we staged it, over logways and through sloughs, slush and rain to Marshall, where we reached the first railway, and went on our way re¬ joicing to Detroit. I entered my name on the hotel register at- Chicago, adding my official position, not dreaming that from this simple circumstance I was to derive so great a notoriety as preceded my arrival home. But when I arrived at Canandai¬ gua, where I had many excellent and good friends, I was not a little surprised when they congratulated me upon the fact of my not being an absconding public defaulter, as had been pub¬ lished by and in the newspaper of the notorious Long John Wentworth. Quite a number of the eastern papers repub¬ lished the libel, and for which they made haste to make ample amends by the payment of money and recantations. The United States Senate afterwards unanimously confirmed my nomination. I returned, in the spring of 1844, to Mineral Point, with my family of nine children, who are all still livings but one. From thence I removed to Madison, the day before Christmas, 1845, and opened the 'National Hotel,1 on the site of the present Vilas House, and conducted the same on strictly temperance principles for several years.

"Having opened house just before the meeting of the Terri¬ torial Legislature, the Hon. E. V. Whiton, who was then a member of the Council, came to me a stranger and selected a room for the session. I trust it will not be thought improper for me, here to state, that on his coming to my house, Mr. Whitok, who was a sound lawyer and otherwise a most excel¬ lent man, took his initial step in temperance reform, and from which he never afterwards departed, thus proving, contrary to general belief, that a sensible being can reform from any evil. He was subsequently Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, in which eminent position he lived till his death, deeply lamented and mourned by all who had the pleasure of his acquaintance.. It was notorious, in these early times, that very many of the leading men then in the Territory were hale fellows, well met,, and given not a little to inebriety, to which habit, in general, they adhered with hopeless tenacity; and to our sincere regret, candor compels us to sa}^, that some of our best men, by this indulgence, were driven down to a premature grave, and but few of this class now remain as the wasted mementoes of thereckless past.

44 Madison was now an incorporated village, and the facilities for traveling and transportation having increased, the more careful and intelligent of her people saw the necessity of im¬ provement, put forth all of their energy and enterprise to ac¬ complish the same, although seriously opposed by the older settlers, whose minds had not j^et become susceptible of pro¬ gressive impressions by reason of their unhallowed indul¬ gences. The capitol presented the sorrowful appearance of a state house under leaky circumstances, the court room of which was generally flooded after a rain. The Methodists occupied this room on Sundays, but the attendance was small, and the benefits smaller, if anything. Religion had not yet got a fair square foothold among the sinners, some of whom were sup¬ posed to be invulnerable to good morals, and odious in char¬ acter.

44 Besides the 4 National,1 there were two or three other nota¬ ble hotels. The 4 Madison,1 kept for a time by a Mr. Clark, and others. Another was the 4 American Hotel,1 run by the inimitable Jemmy Morrisok, of whom many amusing anec¬ dotes have been told. He had a number of good as well as some bad traits. He was friendly and good to those he loved, but a formidable enemy to those he disliked. The ' City Hotel ' was kept by the famous A. A. Bird; he was the man who, it was supposed, first saw the sun rise at Sun Prairie, throwing its luminous rays over the enchanting scenery of the embryo Madison, destined so soon to assume a position worthy of its location. He lived to see the day of its prosperity, and himself a poor man. We could name many persons and their many eccentricities, but in doing so we fear to do a wrong, of no benefit at this time. It must suffice to say, that Madison could boast in those days of a large number of inimitable to¬ pers, and being thus early baptised in liquid poison, she has grown up with a prolific increase of the seemingly incurable curse.

" The society at Madison, in an early day, was of a mixed kind, rendered somewhat sociable by necessity, as there were many quite dependent upon their fellows for the necessaries of life. There were some, however, who prided themselves upon being the aristocracy and elite of the village; but they, like all other things of human frailty, soon found their level in society by being driven to the want of those necessities which were incompatible with aristocracy in Wisconsin. The citizens were quite pleasant and sociable in their intercourse with each other; and, although many times the necessities of life were scarce and could not be had, still their wants were reasonably supplied by the courtesy and kindness of those who possessed them, and that, too, as a gratuity, without the hope of any return. Good preaching was out of the question, as the people were too poor to induce talented men to come hither. Such as we had, good or bad, had but little influence over consciences hardened by the peculiar traits of a pioneer's life. Merchandise and gro¬ ceries were purchased mostly at Milwaukee, and retailed at Madison at enormous prices. Farm productions of every kind were sold at ruinous rates, averaging a bushel of wheat or other grain for a yard of calico or cotton goods. Grists had to be taken to the Cambridge Mills, twenty miles distant, to be ground. It took a long time to regulate trade so as to be rea¬ sonable and acceptable to all concerned. As a whole, the peo- pie were all that could be reasonabty expected from their man¬ ner of life, the want of moral and religious instruction, and the depression of the times. It was the invariable custom of those who came in here at an early day, to receive new-comers with open hearts and outstretched arms. They were not only made welcome in an ordinary sense, but were embraced and loved as brethren, although entire strangers to each other, and who, on being thus kindly received and recognized, soon felt themselves at home, and by perseverance and industry, obtained a foundation for future prosperity. The fact is patent, and cannot be denied, that very many of those of the first settlers having in their power all of the means to accumulate wealth, never saved enough to live comfortably, but died, as they had lived, poor and penniless, a sad reminder of the unerring truth, that 1 the way of the transgressor is hard.'

"Occasionally, in the course of time, men of wealth and means, with steady habits and progressive ideas, would come and settle down in our midst, and thus, by littles, the character of the people for moral and intellectual stability, grew and was established in the then beautiful village, so early to become the loveliest city of the northwest.

" At the sessions of the Legislatures there was little of lob¬ bying done, because laws were easily obtained for legitimate purposes; legislators and constituents, at that time, not having been initiated in the art mobilier or the science of stealing from the public crib. Members and outsiders generally gav their waste time up to the indulgence of fun, frolic and highcock-arorum! And no people more highly enjoyed life than did our solons and their constituents, and but for the native weak¬ ness of some of them, but little of an offensive character could have been justly charged against them. There were many no¬ ble geniuses among the early settlers at Madison and in its vi¬ cinity, in respect to whom, comparatively with our best citi¬ zens from other parts of the Territory, our people bore an en¬ viable position, morally, civilly and intellectually. They all aimed their highest interests, individually and collectively, the spare means they then possessed enabled them to do; and

"As a matter of fact, it may be stated, that from the least to the greatest intelligence among its citizens, all looked with em¬ phatic assurance upon the certain prospect of Madison becom¬ ing the Queen City of Wisconsin; and, whose growing beauty, charming scenery and delightful surroundings, were destined to outvie any possible competition. Some have lived to see the day, when these fond anticipations have been fully realized, and which enables us now joyfully to refer to our beautiful Madi¬ son, as our lovely "city set upon a hill whose light cannot be hid." We have often expressed the sentiment, and we have pleasure in repeating it right here, that whoever has heard of Madison, its unsurpassed beauty, grandeur and enchanting im¬ agery, and has ability and means to go there, should never die until he has secured the sight, and enjoyed the delights of its transporting rapturous scenes.

" There was a number of religious societies just fairly begin¬ ning to assume a position as such, and amongst whom the ladies were not wanting in their exertions to give pecuniary aid and prosperity to their several denominations, by the institution of sewing circles and fairs for the promotion of church objects, at whose meetings the male population were not backward in their attendance; and, for those times, were quite liberal in their weekly donations. As in all undertakings and projects of a be¬ nevolent and progressive character, women were the moving and untiring co-workers for accomplishing the objects of their noblest desires, so the ladies of Madison, in the infancy of their churches, labored and toiled with unremitting energy and per¬ severance, until their accumulations gave not only a foundation, but also, in some instances, a beautiful superstructure for their several congregations to worship in. We should give all honor and praise to these large-hearted and noble women, for their kind hearted and generous devotion ; and but for whose love to God and good will to man, these consecrated structures would not now probably be pointing their spires and drawing the hearts of mankind up towards the " house not made with hands, eter- nal in the heavens." It should be a matter of sincere joy with those now living, that God has been graciously pleased to thus 44 give unto these noble daughters of the church, abundantly of the fruit of their hands."

44 In 1845, Madison began to improve rapidly, and particular¬ ly so under the large management and ceaseless labors and im¬ provement of ex- Gov. Leonard J. Far well. The times then seemed to be favorable for large and continuous improvements; but, as in 1836, in other sections of our country, when fortunes were made in a day, and lost as soon, by the immediate and un¬ expected revulsion of the times, so Madison, in its highest, hopeful assurance of continued prosperity, became checked in growth, by the sudden change of the times, and the sad reverses of fortune of her noblest and best friend. This check to its ad¬ vancement continued to bear with severity upon the city of our delights for a number of years; but, as all things terrestrial have their day of trial, if not of affliction, and finally rise supe¬ rior to all vicissitudes and emergencies, so Madison has emerged from the hazard of her once unfortunate condition, and risen majestically above all her fears and the frowns of her enemies, eo that she has become, simply by right of her exalted position, u Monarch of all she surveys."

44 Early in June, 1845, after a boisterous trip upon the lakes, I landed at Milwaukee, then of more pretensions than propor¬ tions. It was a long, straggling village, almost wholly confined to the east side of the river. The low bottom on the west side, was in the main a mere swamp densely overgrown with tamar¬ ack. The houses, such as they were, may have numbered one or two hundred. Except a road laid out by way of Kilbourntown, there was no means of access to the interior. The steamer landed at 44 Higby's Pier, carried far out into the bay. If the then mouth of the river was accessible to shipping, it was not -often used. The place even then, in the intelligence, zeal and activity of its population, foreshadowed the modern city; but rsuch elements as railroads, telegraphs, etc., of course entered into the calculation of no one.

w Stages at that time left for Madison twice a week, and be¬ yond, once a week. The route ran round by way of Prairieville, Johnstown and Janesville, to avoid the dreaded "Rock river woods," the road through which was the terror of the early settlers.

" I reached the place about two hours after the semi-weekly stage had left, and not relishing the idea of waiting four days, I secured a horse from Moore & Co. (as I now remember the firm), and started on the shortest route for Madison at noon. After passing through an almost unbroken forest with scarce a house, at dark I stopped at what is now Summit, consisting of a wretched tavern, blacksmith shop and one or two farm houses. Roughing in the wilderness was not entirely new to me, hav¬ ing came from the forest region of Northern Ohio, but not liking the extremely primitive accommodations, I started very early next morning, supposing that of course houses would be found all along the way. It was near noon before I came upon a house where breakfast could be procured, but as there was no name to the place, I am unable to name the point. Going on, I passed into what to me was a marvel from its resemblance to the orchards of my boyhood, to oak openings - and finally out upon the prairies, even a greater curiosity. The illusions of the route everywhere surprised me. Looking about at the mag¬ nificent groves and cleared places, I expected every moment to come out upon farms and villages, only to be disappointed. In¬ deed houses at that time scarce numbered more than one to twenty miles, and the road was a mere blind path, which at times if was difficult to follow, while an endless vista and sol¬ emn silence, was to me a new and wonderful experience. I reached Beecher's old place in Cottage Grove about 6 P. M., and about 7, from the high grounds about four miles distant, obtained my first view of Madison and the Four Lake country.

u The spectacle was a vision so glorious, that it painted itself on my memory with a vividness that has never left it. Just previous to reaching the elevation I had been overtaken by a gentleman also bound for Madison, and when we reached the summit, both stopped our horses in involuntary surprise. F our

Lakes lay spread out before us, brought out in strong relief by the declining sun just sinking in the west, shining like bur¬ nished mirrors. On all sides forest and prairie swept down in lines and patches unobstructed to their shores. Except the village, magnified a thousand fold as a central figure, there was no break in the scene - not a mark of human improvement. As this line of white beach sand glowing in the sunset stood in contrast with the dark, green foliage that encompassed it, while plain and level, precipice and peninsula, bay and gulf, were clothed in a brilliancy of outline, and a beauty beyond the power of description. Half an hour of twilight passed before our interest in the golden vision was satisfied. Madison seemed to be about two miles away. Our jaded horses and tired bodies did not allow of rapid movements, and we supposed half an hour would land us at a hotel. But darkness deepened over the scene. Hours passed - we concluded we must be lost - until finally we saw a light, and about 10 o'clock learned that we were actually in Madison. We stopped at the Madison House, then chief hotel for stage passengers. Col. A. A. Bird seemed to be the presiding genius of the concern.

"In the morning, after breakfast, great was my surprise to find the hotel in the midst of an almost unbroken forest. Al¬ though a main street, it had but five or six houses in its whole length. The road - King street - was as yet covered with an almost unbroken sod, filled with stumps of trees, cut out- only in the center, while walks were unknown, and their site cov¬ ered with a dense undergrowth. This description is true of every street on the site that any attempt had been made to open. Indeed, except three country roads crossing the plot there were no improvements of any kind. The capitol park had not been undergrowthed - its fences were carried through a dense thicket, and the southwest and northwest sides of the square were still almost unbroken forest, almost impassable.

" I remained four days in the place. Met J. A. Hookah, Esq., who introduced me so all the Territorial officials - then Gov. Hodge, J/B. Floyd, Secretary, Judges Duhh, Irvih and Miller, and others. While there heard Sam Crawford's maiden plea. I made long walks around the then beautiful beaches of the lakes. The shore line was nowhere broken by an improvement, nor was the house of a settler anywhere visible. Everything almost was in a state of nature, and the foliage so dense that, except the old capitol, it was rare a building was visible.

u When I first visited Madison in 1845, it was an insignificant hamlet standing in a dense forest thicket, without streets, av¬ enues, walks or improvements of any kind: too obscure coun* try roads excepted. There was not a mark of man's presence upon any of its surroundings. Prairies and groves came down to the lakes, as yet unbroken. There was neither mill nor fac¬ tory, nor indeed a strictly industrial pursuit of any kind. Gen¬ erally the whole region may be described as a magnificent and fertile waste.

u After a few days I went on to Galena, and arranged to set¬ tle at that point. In September, I returned from Ohio, where I then lived, and later commenced the publication of the " Ga¬ lena Jeffersonian ," among the lead diggers. The incidents and curious experiences of my stay there would fill a volume. It was a period when three quarters of the whole western popula¬ tion were sick annually for months. I of course took the ague, and fearing I could not get rid of it while living on the Missis¬ sippi, gave up my office, and removed with my family to Madi¬ son in November of the next year, where I have ever since kept my home. It was not until 1855 that I was able to shake off the chills.

" There was so much and yet so little of importance in the early settlement, that it might be comprehended in a sentence, or swelled to a volume. One scarce knows what to say when so much may be said, and yet so little to the purpose.

" Madison was a hamlet - the country a wild waste. Popu¬ lation had but barely discovered it. There were three voting precincts - Blue Mounds, Madison and Albion. The town of Madison covered twenty-four townships then without name. The balance of the county was divided between the other two. There was but one German settler, X. Jordan, and three Irish

- Thomas and Mathew Duxx and Peter Kavanaugh. It took four counties to make an Assembly District - Dane, Co¬ lumbia, Sauk and Green, and all the territory between the south line of the state in its central part to Lake Superior, for a Council district. Many years elapsed before towns received names.

u Game was profusely abundant. I repeatedly shot prairie chickens on the capitol square, and the hunting of quail there was common. The last deer killed within the site was in 1847

- an old buck whose way was over the University hill. He was so sagacious that he was not taken until hunted at times for three -years. Bears were common, wolves innumerable, and other wild animals in proportion. In fish and fowls the pres¬ ent generation have not the faintest conception of the enormous profusion of that period. The way they were slaughtered at times in mere sport, was a wicked waste. In 1849 the Winnebagoes camped near the present Insane Hospital. Spreading out over the country, they drove all the deer of all kinds to¬ wards the center and killed all - sparing none. They had over 500 carcasses, when a band of citizens went over and drove them off, but the deer never recovered from that fatal raid.

" Of the population of that period I have in various articles so often spoken as to have little to say. The community was almost a pure democracy, bound together by every tie of sympathy and friendship. Almost every social gathering was in common. The standard of respectability was education, honesty, honor, and an observance of the laws of good breeding. Six¬ pences did not count in men's estimation of each other; kind, generous and neighborly acts were taken as a matter of course. Hone were so poor or lowly as not to receive necessary aid and attention. We had no organized and secret societies to help -each other, and therefore did it with scarce the asking, and without thought of obligation. The modern crystallizations of conceit and selfishness were unknown.

u Our politics in those days were red hot, but almost always good natured. When able to cast seventy-two votes on one occasion, the number was a matter of public boast. It will be seen from this, that a party could not divide much on candi¬ dates and succeed. Memory of those eventful canvasses is rich in comic incident, and laughable surprises. If we had warm differences at the polls, we made it all up in our private and social relations. We had no scandals, scarce any hut imported divorces, no espionage or tattle of garrulous inferiority, no quar¬ rels of religious orders, no temperance societies, and hut little intemperance. Our wants were few; our supplies of essentials always adequate. Fashions did not disturb us. It was not regarded as vulgar to have physical strength and good appe¬ tites. Indeed, none of the modern clap-trap, little affectations, small jealousies, and party dignity troubled us. We lived lives of activity and usefulness - putting away sham, and looking only to substance.

"We had one common school house, then located in the for¬ est, but I am unable here to name the street. Our jail was a log building, about 12X16, used part of the time as a shoe¬ maker's shop. Shortly after, by a united effort, a church was built for Rev. Mr. Miner, soon succeeded by Rev. Mr. Lord.

" The forests from the country were continuous across the city site, except where broken by a few scanty houses. Uni¬ versity hill was inaccessible from any direct road, overgrown with dense young timber, intermingled with gigantic oaks. The summit was the first burial place - a man killed by lightning in 1839. The grave was at the southeast corner of the present central building. In time, burial places increased to four - one on lots near or within the premises of Judge Vilas, one in the ridge south of the West Milwaukee depot, and the other the block near S. D. Carpenter's place. All were at the time in a dense forest.

" Prairie fires annually crossed the site from one marsh to the other, going through the timber between the capitol park and Fourth Lake. Some of these exhibitions were on so grand a scale as to remind me of the great Chicago fire.

" Of literary entertainments we had few. It was the custom to patronize everything that came along to encourage others to follow. Our first circus came in 1848, while the legislature was in session, and adjourned the body without the formality of a vote. Social gatherings, from their freedom and intel¬ lectual cast, left little to desire. Fun and frolic was the chief characteristic, and more of it in a week than ten years now witness.

41 A complete picture of primitive Madison would be a pic¬ ture of the Territory at large, whose political, if not intellect¬ ual center it then was. Each of its settlers had characteristic peculiarities of his own, which affixed a decided mark to him. These have never wholly disappeared. Mutual respect and for¬ bearance was the social as well as civil rule. It was a golden era, which once passed will never return."

Village and Town Elections 1846-49 - Water Power - Celebra¬ tion, July 4, 1846 - Public Cemetery - Dr. C. B. Chapman's ani> J. T. Clark's Reminiscences - Elections 1847 - Hope Lodge I. O. O. F. - Knapp's Account of Capitol Grounds - L. J. Farwell's Arrival - First Bell in Madison - Organization of Baptist Church 1847 - Trial of Gross for Murder - Elections 1848- 49 - Growth of Village, 1848 - State Historical Society, 184& - State University.

At the session of the legislature in the winter of 1846, an act was passed, abolishing the commissioner system of government, and substituting town organizations. By the provisions of this act, the towns of Albion, Rutland, Rome (now Oregon), Dun¬ kirk, and Sun Prairie, were set off as separate towns - the re¬ mainder of the county comprised the town of Madison.

On the 2d of March, the first charter election for officers of the village under the act of incorporation, took place, when the following persons were chosen: President, Thos. W. Suther¬ land; Trustees, Peter W. Matts, E. B. Dean, Jh, Wm. N. Seymour, Alonzo Wilcox and James Morrison; Clerk, Julius T. Clark; Assessor, Sidney F. Blanchard; Treasurer, Dar¬ win Clark; Marshal, Andrus Vi all.

The published statement of the receipts and disbursements of Dane county, from January 11, 1845, to January 9, 1846r were - receipts, $6,166.81; disbursements, $6,493.62.

The following persons were elected town officers at the spring election, April f, 1846: Supervisors, Jas. R. Larkin, Edwarh Campbell and Wm. C. Wells; Town Clerk, J. Duane Ruggles; Collector, Andrus Viall; Treasurer, Darwin Clark; Asses¬ sors, Geo. Vroman, John W. Thomas and Wm. Larkin; School Commissioners, J. Gillett Knapp, Benjamin Holt and A. H. Talcott; Fence Viewers, T. W. Sutherland, J. Y. Smith and E. B. Dean, Jr.; Road Commissioners, J. M. Griffin,,

Thos. Rathbun and Abiram Drakely; Justices of the Peace, Wm. N. Seymour, Nat. Wheeler, Barlow Shackleford and Alonzo Wilcox; Constables, Albert Skinner, John Cot¬ trell, James Moore; Sealer, Squire Lamb. The vote for State Government was 200, against, 47. At the same time a tax of two and half mills, on the dollar valuation, was levied for the support of schools, and the same amount for road pur¬ poses. At a meeting of the Board of Supervisors, June 1, a tax of five mills was levied for poor purposes, and $100 for incidental expenses, and on June Bd, tavern licenses were fixed at $5.00 in the country and $15.00 in town; merchants' licenses $10, and grocers' $100.

The Trustees of the Village, on the 23d of March, 1846, pub¬ lished proposals to lease the Hydraulic power within the corpo¬ ration limits as follows:

" Whereas, it has been ascertained by measurement that there is within the corporation limits of Madison, a fall or difference of elevation between the Third and Fourth of the Four Lakesr sufficient if improved, to create a water power of considerable magnitude; and whereas, the legislature of this Territory did by an act approved February 3, 1846, grant to the corporation of Madison the right to lease, improve or otherwise dispose of said water power, therefore, u Public notice is hereby given that the undersigned Board of Trustees of said Corporation, will receive proposals until the first day of June next, for leasing the right to the water above men-' tioned for a term of years on the condition that the lessee or lessees excavate and complete a canal of 40 feet in width at the bottom and 50 at the top, from the Fourth to the Third Lake along or near East Canal street, dam the present outlet of the Fourth Lake, build two good plank bridges across said canal, the one near the Third and the other near the Fourth Lake, with a substantial railing to each ; erect a good flouring mill with at least four run of stone, and such other machinery as the lessee or lessees may see proper, all to be performed within a reason¬ able time, and bonds to he given to the Trustees of the Corpo¬ ration of Madison for the faithful prosecution and completion of said work. The Trustees would state for the information of those who may desire to undertake the work, that they have caused a level to be taken, and that the engineer reports a dif¬ ference of 3 71-100 feet between the water of the above named lakes, with the opinion that, by the proper damming, this fall may be increased to 5^ or 6 feet. The distance between the Lakes on the proposed route is about 48 chains, and the nature of the ground favorable for excavation. This cannot but create a great power, especially when it is considered that its head is a lake of some twenty miles in circumference. The undersigned have the utmost confidence in the practicability and advant¬ ages of the work, and feel that they can lease upon terms which will make it a most desirable object to any capitalist who may have the means necessary to undertake its construction.

In reply to which, a proposition was made by Simeon Mills to lease the water power for sixty years ; which proposition was accepted. Subsequently Mr. Mills had a careful survey made of the level of the lakes, and not being satisfied with the result, abandoned the undertaking. In 1848 he erected on lots 6 and 7, block 116, corner of Main and Blair streets, a steam saw mill. On the 6th of December, 1857, he advertised for 1,000 saw logs.

The celebration of the 4th of July this year was observed with the following officers: Jona. Larkin, President; M. G. Van Bergen and J. Y. Smith, Vice Presidents; A. A. Bird, Marshal; Beriah Brown, Reader; Wm. Welch, Orator; Rev. S. E. Miner, Chaplain; S. F. Blanchard, D. B. Sneeden, Royal Buck, John T. Wilson, Geo. A. Cary, E. B. Dean, Jr., Ben- u The Honorable Fourth of July arrived in town last Friday night, and notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, many of our citizens were on hand to welcome his approach hy a salute from a 150 pounder (that is to say, the anvil weighed that), and such other "hasty" ceremonies as were suited to the occasion.

. and in the way of a morning salute, the thunder did the clean thing, while the said anvil lay upon the ground in mute aston¬ ishment. The salute being over, the vapors disappeared and old Sol received the nation's guest with warm congratulations. The oration, by Mr. Welch, judging from the impression it produced and the various opinions and remarks which it elic¬ ited, must have possessed the rare qualities of originality and strength, if nothing more. The dinner was served up in good style by R. W. Lansing, and the Madison Brass Band enlivened the occasion by a variety of choice music, and we are happy in being able to add that but very little of intemperance or dis¬ orderly conduct was witnessed during the day and evening."

Until the year 1846, Madison cannot be said to have had a public cemetery. The sand ridge, southeast of the depot of the Milwaukee and Mississippi Railroad Company, the university hill, and part of block 61, had been previously used - none were enclosed or otherwise improved. The first act of the corporation for the purchase of burial grounds, seems to have taken place this year, but the purchase was not perfected until two or three years later. The grounds selected was block 180, about one mile northeast of the capitol building, and embraced an area of about three and a half acres. It was subsequently platted into 256 lots, 16 of the larger size equivalent to 64 of the smaller ones being reserved as a Potters Field, leaving 236 lots, 10 by 18 feet each, for private sale; of this last number 139 have been disposed of, leaving for future wants but 117 lots. The ground on the whole is favorably located and adapted to the end in view, having a subsoil generally composed of sand and gravel. It has been properly enclosed with a neat and substantial fence, at an expense of about $200. The land has an elevation of about thirty feet above lake Monona, on which it ought to have bordered, and has an easy and gentle slope, and was deemed a judicious selection considering the views entertained of the probable future growth of the village.

Maj. H. A. Tenney has an article in the State Journal of November 26, 1853, strongly urging the importance of pur¬ chasing a tract of land of forty or more acres, to meet the future wants of the town.

The population of Madison this year (1846) was 626, and Dane county 8,289. Two-thirds, and probably three-fourths of the village plat was covered with forest trees and hazel brush. Not over half a dozen houses had been erected west¬ ward or northward of the Capitol square; and the forest north¬ eastward remained unbroken below the street on which the old jail is located. East and west King street (now State street), a part of Morris (now Main street), and those immediately around the square, comprised about all the streets opened for travel. Such was the appearance of the village in 1846, and for four years thereafter its growth was anything but rapid.

The amount of real and personal property assessed for cor¬ poration purposes, and the amount of taxes levied for 1846 were: Real, $41,019. Personal, $9,300. Total, $50,319. Amount of tax, $251.60.

We are indebted to Dr. C. B. Chapman, who came to Madi¬ son in 1846, for the following paper of reminiscences of men and things as they appeared to him shortly after his arrival : u It is not easy to calculate the advantage which would be conferred upon individuals and communities by the introduc¬ tion into schools and families of a system by which the more important events of each day shall be noted. The small amount of time which would be demanded for a strict adherence to such a custom, seems to indicate that it only requires that some simple form should be introduced in order to secure a more general compliance with the custom. If such statements in a diary should only embrace reports of weather and employment of the day, it would enable the person to recur to many other contemporary incidents. I am reminded of what I have stated, as I have set for myself the task of producing an account of my first years in Madison. It has been by the expenditure of much labor and care in the searching for memoranda, that the dates, which will hereafter appear, have been arrived at and made reliable, while more use of exact dates would be much more satisfactory.

u It was on the 18th of May, 1846, that I left Bristol, Trum¬ bull county, Ohio, for Madison. There was no railroad in that part of the State; the nearest was the Lake Erie and Mad River Road, from Sandusky, extending southward. I journeyed to Cleveland by private convej^ance, and thence to Milwaukee by the steamboat Wisconsin. Boats were then well patronized by travelers and emigrants, along the chain of lakes, from Buf¬ falo to Chicago. A portion of the Michigan Central Road had been finished, and a small proportion of the passengers left us at Detroit, in order to come onward by that route, which gave but little advantage in time.

"We arrived at Milwaukee on the morning of Saturday, May 23d, and, as the stage left there for Madison but three times a week, or on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, we re¬ mained until Monday morning, the 25th. We arrived at Janes¬ ville at 11 P. M., and at Madison the evening of May 26. Our first view of the dome of the old capitol was from the eleva¬ tion north from Deming Fitch's farm, northwest quarter of section 25. The town site was then mostly covered by a forest of small oaks. The forest along the way through Grreenbush was so dense that we did not obtain another view of the Capitol until near the south corner of the Capitol square. The only building between that corner and the outlet of Dead Lake (Lake Wingra) was the log house of Thomas Duhn-, which was a short distance below the court house. The City Hotel was then the stage house, and stood upon the corner where the Fairchild Block now stands. It was a story and a half house, and was kept by Col. A. A. Bird. It was there

I took my first repast in Madison. An incident occurred dur¬ ing my first hours in Madison that I have well remembered. On crossing the street, after our evening repast, to the east gate of the Capitol square, accompanied by a fellow-passenger, we met a person with a surveyor's chain, who walked to the capitol with us, and was ready to reply to our various questions, occasionally attracting our attention to some new beauty of the place. As we passed to the west door, and took a view of the town in that direction, I embraced the opportunity to en¬ quire for the residence of Rev. S. E. Miner, to whom I had letters, when I found I was talking with him. He had just been using the surveyor's chain for the purpose of preparing for the foundation for the Congregational church. It was the building that stands on Webster street, opposite' the engine house. That building was finished and occupied on the ap¬ proach of the coming winter. Mr. Miner occupied a frame house that stood on the lot now occupied by Wayne Ramsay, Esq., on the corner of Carroll and Gorham streets. It was then owned by R. T. Davis, and afterwards by the successor of Mr. Miner, Rev. Chas. Lord. The only house in that vi¬ cinity was on the opposite corner, and occupied by Hon. Geo. B. Smith.

" The block upon the shore of Lake Mendota, between Wis¬ consin avenue and Pinckney street, was soon after purchased by Julius T. Clark, Esq., who then predicted that that ridge would become desirable residence property, although it was then reached by passing through a thick growth of oaks, and no streets were defined after leaving the Capitol grounds. The streets as well as the lots were covered by a forest of small oaks. John Mallo had a brick yard on the third block west of the corner of the Capitol square. The lot where 1 Brown's Block,' formerly ' Bruen's,' now stands, was mostly covered by small trees, as well as the avenue adjoining, and James Morrison and others had it in use for their pig-styes. The jail, which was a rude log structure, stood near the small brick schoolhouse. It had two rooms, one of which was reached by passing through the first, and the inner room had some of the ancient appliances for securing criminals. The only inmate at that time was a James White, who was awaiting his second trial for an attempt to shoot Nicholas Smith. He was con¬ fined by a chain attached to one leg, and was or had divested himself of most of his clothing.* He was tried and convicted three times, and the verdict set aside each time on account of the just belief of Judge David Irwih, that he was irresponsi¬ ble by reason of insanity. His conduct, after he was finally set at liberty, fully justified his course. The next year, the jail was occupied by a Frenchman by the name of GrROSS, who was tried for the murder of a man in what is now the town of Springfield. Although it was alleged that some gold coin that belonged to the man was found in his possession, he was ac¬ quitted. In this jail was also confined, a few years later, the ' Monk of La Trappe,' who was afterward convicted of murder by the Columbia county court, and sentenced to the peniten¬ tiary for life. This Rev. Mr. Leahey had traversed the coun¬ try as a lecturer, which vocation he attempted to resume after his pardon, hut with so little success that he soon gave it up.

" The school in the 1 Little Brick,' I believe, was then under the supervision of Royal Buck, who was succeeded by David H. Wright; this house and the old Capitol were the only places where religious services were held, until the Congregational church edifice was completed.

"There were four hotels when I came, and the fifth was re¬ opened a few months after. These were the ' American,' kept by James Morrisoh; the 'Madison House,' by Welch & Bushhell; the 'City Hotel,' by A. A. Bird, and the 'National, by R. W. Lahsihg. The ' Lake House ' was re-opened the same autumn by J. P. Mahh.

" The number of inhabitants was then said to be 400, which I believe was a liberal estimate. Surrounding the square were the following buildings, as nearly as I can remember: between the north and east corners was the building which was early known as 'The Tiger,' the American Hotel, W. W. Wyman's brick house (unfinished), and the United States Block (unfin¬ ished). Between the east and south corner were the City

Hotel, Shields & Sneeden's store (on the site of S. Klauber & Co.'s store), A. L. Collins' and T. W. Sutherland's law offices, the building now occupied by W. Veerhusen, the Na¬ tional Hotel, S. Mills' old residence, and two smaller buildings used as saloons. The only house on the side between the south and west corners was the house of Henry Gullion, now a part of F. A. Ogden's building. Between the west and north cor¬ ner was the residence of John Gatlin, Esq., which stood where the United States building now stands. The only stores were those of Shields & Sneeden, Finch & Blanchard, and E. B. Dean & Cov but J. C. Fairchild added one a short time after. The only house on Main street, southwest from Mr. Mills' was that of Thos. Dunn, which was in the second block below the Court House. L, F. Kellogg occupied a house nearly op¬ posite his present residence. Peter Kayanaugh had a place near the corner of State street and University avenue, and there was a house about two blocks westward of that, on Uni¬ versity avenue, which was then temporarily occupied by B. Britton. The only house beyond, and near the city limits, was that of A. E. Brooks. Nearly all the buildings were around and near the Capitol square. King street, from the east corner of the park to the Lake House, was the only street that was at all defined by improvements, and these in a rude way. John Stoner lived near the shore of Lake Mendota, the only residence but that of Alex. Wilcox, in that direction.

" An incident which occurred in March, 1849, will indicate the condition of improvements west of the Capitol. As Dr. N. M. Dodson, a medical student, now of Berlin, Wis., was on his way from Galena to Madison, he called at the house of Peter Kavanaugh to enquire the distance to Madison. It was at twi¬ light, or he would have been guided by the dome of the capitol.

" I remained here without my family, who joined me in Sep¬ tember, and I was an inmate of the family of David Holt du¬ ring that time. Mr. Holt was then Postmaster, and had his office on Webster street, near the old Argus office building. We were first established in housekeeping in a rude old struc¬ ture that was situated where J. M. Bowman now resides, and then known as the Schemerhorn house, where we remained until the following April. I then purchased the building known as the " Tiger," on Pinckney street, where we remained until 1850. That building was said to have been a place where much money was won and lost at faro and other games, during the sessions of the Legislature; an incident not remarkably creditable to our early legislators, although, perhaps, as much so as the incidents of some of the years since that time. It may be supposed that as the times and methods of living were then crude, the Legislature and legislators would partake of the same characteristics. I have the impression however, that those early bodies would compare quite favorably, both in tal¬ ent and definite ideas with most of their successors.