Madison City (part 5 of 20)
Part 5 of 20 of the account of this town in A History of Madison, the Capital of Wisconsin : Including the Four Lake Country : to July, 1874, with an Appendix of Notes on Dane County and Its Towns, published 1874. 15,910 words, covering 17 settlements. Source changes inside the text are labelled at the exact paragraph where the next book begins.
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The chapter
15,910 wordsReproduced complete and unedited from A History of Madison, the Capital of Wisconsin : Including the Four Lake Country : to July, 1874, with an Appendix of Notes on Dane County and Its Towns, published 1874. The text is machine-read from scans, so expect recognition errors: misspelled names, dropped words, and stray characters. Nothing has been corrected, because correcting a proper name invents one. The headings below are the books' own; source changes are labelled in place.
" The two persons I first met in alighting from the stage at the time I arrived, were A. A. Bird and James Halpin. James had charge of the dining room, and made himself generally useful. He soon after engaged at the American Hotel then kept by James Morrison. He made a contract with Mrs. Mor¬ rison to serve for one year, but was to forfeit his wages in case he should return to his old habits. He was successful in com¬ plying with his contract, but shortly after the time specified had expired, under the influence of an event in his family, and of a generous tendency to enjoy the bestowment of hospitality, he joined in convivial circles which he was supporting, and they culminated in the rapid waste of all they had accumulated, including the tidy furniture in their room. After removing from the American to a place on the shore of Lake Monona near the Lake House, where they lived in wretchedness for a time, finding himself without the means for supplying his ap¬ petite for stimulants, he ended his carousal by taking a quan¬ tity of opium that would likely have proved fatal but for the use of the stomach pump. How well he recovered from this habit, and maintained the character of a respectable citizen, and filled the place of trust as Superintendent of Public Prop¬ erty, was observed with peculiar gratification by his friends. But he was not always fully himself on account of a free use of opium and morphine, and this often caused his friends to suspect that he had partly returned to his old habit. I believe he maintained his integrit}7 as to the use of common stimulants, hut his second habit became so strong, that he declared his ina¬ bility to relinquish their use, and he was sometimes nearly as much beclouded in his intelligence as formerly. His life was & peculiarly eventful one. He was a native of Ireland, and from an early age had traversed the ocean as a sailor. He landed from a ship in Quebec during the prevalence of the cholera in 1832, and suffered an attack of the malady, from which he rapidly recovered He then came to the States - enlisted as a soldier, and was with Gen. Z. Taylor mostly in the capac¬ ity of a servant, during part of the Black Hawk War. He was once entrusted with despatches between Green Bay and Prairie du Chien, when he traversed the distance alone, often passing the streams by swimming his horse. In April, 1838, he was a soldier at Newport, Ky., and with a small detachment that was ordered to an upper Mississippi station had taken passage on the steamer Moselle, when she blew up at a Cin¬ cinnati landing. His company were all killed or drowned. He was thrown from the upper deck into the stream, swam ashore, and proceeded to his place of destination and reported in due form. Although a roughish kind of an Irishman, he was re¬ markable for the fidelity with which he fulfilled any trust com¬ mitted to him.
" I cannot recall any who now occupy the same places they did at that time, except Mrs. Brigham, William N. Seymour and the Pyncheons; and Mrs. Brigham is the only person who occupies the same house. David Holt owned and occupied the house opposite Gen. David Atwood's. The house that was re¬ cently removed from the corner in order to give place to Gen. Atwood's new residence, was occupied by Peter H. Yah Ber¬ gen, and soon after by Jesse A. Clark. J. G. Knapp was then Superintendent of Territorial Property, and lived opposite the Capitol House (recently known as the Rasdall House), on King street. John Y. Smith, Superintendent before Mr. Knapp, be¬ fore I came, was then of the " Argus " firm with Benjamin Holt and S. Mills. He was then occupying a house from which that of Hon. S. D. Hastings, was remodelled, but moved to his own house that autumn, where his first wife died the fol¬ lowing March. Mrs. Smith, as well as her husband, was an early resident of Green Bay, where she came from New York when quite young, as a missionary of the Episcopal church. She possessed rare literary qualities which were little known on ac¬ count of her peculiar diffidence. A fragment of her diary, du¬ ring a thunder storm, while passing up Lake Huron, on her way to her new home, will indicate her chaste imagination, and such as has often conferred a world- wide fame. It was this: " Who hut Jehovah could cause the heavens to groan in thun¬ ders, and to weep in showers."
" There were two early residents of Madison who were not well pleased with the improvements which were invading the ' Four Lake country." They were from Canada - Canadian French - and I have the impression that they preceded the first permanent residents. These were Louis Montandon and Philip Covalle. Abel Rasdall lived in the log house which had been occupied by the Peck family on Webster street, be¬ low Mrs. Brigham's residence. Wm. M. Rasdall was Deputy Sheriff, and had charge of the jail at the time before mentioned. Ira W. Bird was Sheriff 'and A. A. Bird, Hotel Keeper, Rev. Charles Lord succeeded Mr. Miner as supply of the Congre¬ gational church in the autumn of 1846. He came from Massa¬ chusetts, but had been a missionary at Independence, Mo. He remained until 1854, and bore his part with fidelity in giving caste to our early society, in which Mrs. Lord was a true help¬ mate. His health, or especially his sight, failed for a time to such extent as to render him incapable of performing the neces¬ sary work of preparation, when he returned to his native hills in Massachusetts, where he remained, having so far recovered as to be able for lighter service. After a brief illness, he died at the house of his daughter in Brooklyn, N Y. His predecessor, Rev. Mr. Miner, left the ministry a few years after he left Mad¬ ison, and has recently been engaged in successful business in Kansas.
Seymour, * who was one of the most active and useful among our early citizens, and was a generous leader in every new en¬ terprise of whatever kind. As there was no church edifice for several months, the use of the council chamber in the old capitol was shared by the Congregational and Episcopal churches. Rev. Stephen McHugh was the minister of the Episcopal church. The Methodists occupied the school house for their services. There was no church-bell until June, 1848, when one was placed in the Congregational church, and this served for common use of the several congregations for about four years. I well remember the first time I heard its tones, as I was re¬ turning from my first excursion to Chicago. The bell was not yet placed in the tower, but was placed near the corner of Webster and Main streets, where 'Squire Seymour would have it rung, and when a respectable crowd gathered around it, would embrace the opportunity to secure contributions to be used in payment for the bell.
" The number of improved farms throughout the county was then, but very few, and consequently, in most cases they were far between. My first excursion outside the village in connection with the practice of my profession, was to Sugar river, about sixteen miles. It was not far from the present residence of Varnum Parkhurst. The patient was a Mrs. Lomary, and the messenger, Samuel Parkhurst. I have the impression that we did not pass more than four houses on the way. My next visit was to John Ensign, who kept a way-side inn called the Prairie house, eight miles north-east from town on the old Fort Winnebago road. The houses passed on the way beyond
* William N. Seymour was a son of Hon. Wm. Seymour who represent¬ ed the 20th Congressional district of New York, in the 24th Congress of 3:835 - 37, and who was a member of the New York Assembly in 1832 and *834. He was born at Binghampton, Broome county, New York, April 22, 1808, and came to Madison January 29, 1838, and has resided here since that time. He has held many offices in the town, village and city. He was the acting Justice of the Peace for a long series of years, and was the first clerk of the city council in 1856. Esquire Seymour is still living at Madison, and is one of the well-known characters of the city. For many year he has suffered from paralysis.
the Lake House, were two m town, one of which stood near the East Madison depots, and the other on the lake shore a short distance beyond the Sprecher Brewery, occupied by Mrs. Houghton". Those beyond the Catfish (now known as the Yahara), were those of Grover, Gould, Thos. Daily and the old Seventy-Six house, then occupied by Alex. Botkin, Esq. About the same time, 1846, 1 was requested to go to a place near where the MacFarland station now is, to visit one of the fam¬ ily of John Reed. He came over from Second lake (lake Waubesa) in a boat, but proposed that I find my way to his cabin by passing around the lake, a portion of the way to be guided by an Indian trail which I had not seen. I was not enough confi¬ dent that I could find the way, so he then proposed to take me across the lake in a boat, to which plan I assented, on his repre¬ sentation that his place was but half a mile from where we would land ; but it proved to be as much as two miles and a half. As we passed along the Catfish between the Third and Second Lakes (lakes Monona and Waubesa), we observed an encamp¬ ment of Winnebago Indians on the east shore, which probably numbered as many as a hundred. This man Reed soon after abandoned his family, and his wife became the wife of Matthew Dunn.
" Hon. Henry Dodge, being then Governor, Geo. P. Delaplaine was his Private Secretary, which position he also occu¬ pied during the administration of Governor Dewey. John Catlin was Secretary of the Territory, and Jonathan Larkin was Treasurer. It was during that year that John Catlin and E. M. Willamson commenced the arrangement of the Dane County Abstract Office, which was supposed to be the second one in the Territory. One had already been com¬ menced in Milwaukee. Simeon Mills had an interest in the Argus office although he was not an active worker on the paper, John Y. Smith having the editorial supervision. Daniel M. Holt was a printer in the same office. The Madison Express was then published by W. W. Wyman, and the Democrat by Beriah Brown. The Argus and Democrat were soon after consolidated, and a new Whig paper started by
Atwood & Buck called the Wisconsin Express. Elisha Bur¬ dick was Clerk of the Board of Supervisors, and was suc¬ ceeded by Royal Buck. E. M. Williamson was Surveyor and laid out some of the early roads in the county. Darwin Clark had already established his cabinet shop on the corner of his present place, which business he has maintained with more than usual stability, as well as the character of a worthy and reliable citizen. Geo. A. Cary and Chas. Bil¬ lings were the village blacksmiths, and Casper Rouse worked for them, and afterward established the business for himself. Mr. Rouse is now a resident of Marion Center, Kansas. Peter H. Van Bergen (who built the Congregational church), H. C. Parker, A. L. Harris, John Easton and - - Gilchrist were the village carpenters and joiners. Barlow Shackle¬ ford occupied the house which stands next the Hooley Opera House on Ctymer street, where he died in November, 1846. Orlin Rood lived on the farm west of the town that is now owned by D. Campbell. James Dow lived in a place dug out of a side hill and covered by a roof not far from the u Cary Farm," and perhaps, it was on that place. James was one of nature's noblemen, but for the habit of using strong drink - a habit which he greatly regretted, and made many efforts to desist from. He had been a sailor, and was a native of Scot¬ land. Thomas Walker came here from New York by sug¬ gestion of E. B. Dean, and established himself as a tailor. That place had mostly been occupied by Nicholas Smith, who soon after became a merchant. Luther Wilson and Decatur Vandercook established a livery stable during that summer. Alonzo Wilcox was the shoemaker, a vocation which he still pursues at Spring Green, Sauk county, Wisconsin; although he is well fitted for what are commonly regarded as higher vocations, although this idea is but a myth, provided the part one bears is acted with fidelity. P. W. Matts owned and occupied the house next Thompson's Hotel, and was elected Sheriff, 1841-2. J. R. Brigham returned that season, having just graduated at Amherst College, and entered the law office of A. L. Collins soon after his return.
" The only physicians in the village or county were H. A. Tiffany and Dr. Spencer. Two persons of more discordant character and characteristics could not well be found. The first named seemed to have plunged into the profession with¬ out much preparation, but the simple character of most of the maladies had required but the most simple routine treatment, and the possession of an abundance of assurance gave him a large practice. Dr. Spencer had enjoyed the best advantages the country afforded, which he had well improved and but few persons any where are better qualified for the work of a medical practitioner. Notwitsthanding this, his practice had been much less than that of the other incumbent. A habit which too often prevails among persons on the frontier may have had some influence in diminishing his patronage, but it is said that he became strictly temperate after he left here.
u After the establishment of the Democrat as competitor of the Argus (which was an organ of the same political party, or rather the organ of a party within the party), the contest was sharp for the legislative printing. Beriah Brown had his friends as well as the Argus , but he is said to have put forth more effort to secure success. A characteristic little speech in a caucus, held before the printer was elected, will indicate the character of some legislators. A new member was requested to inform the caucus upon whom he wished to have the place con¬ ferred. He arose with more than common deliberation, which was said to have been somewhat prolonged on account of his ample form having become wedged into an arm chair, and expressed the opinion, that Mr. Brown ought to have the place, adding, ' we have eat his oysters, and drinked his licker, and it will not be right to go back on him.' "
"In the year 1840, I had completed my legal studies, and was attracted to Madison by reports of the natural beauty and salubrity of its location, as well as by its prospective advan¬ tages as the future capital of the State. I arrived in Madison in the month of August in the year above named. On my way from Ottawa, Ill., where I had been residing, I passed through Beloit and Janesville, the former containing some half a dozen houses; the latter, hut one, made of upright boards, and which was built for the accommodation of the stage, which was run¬ ning somewhat regularly on that route. There were then a number of buildings in Madison, the principal ones being the American Hotel, on the northwest corner of Pinckney street and Washington avenue, and the Madison Hotel, on the south side of King street, east of the Capitol grounds, (both since burned), one frame store building belonging to James Morri¬ son", just above the Madison Hotel, a small printing office, and several dwellings - some of logs and some of boards. The walls of the old Territorial Capitol were up, and the building enclosed, but the inside was almost entirely in an unfinished state. On my first visit, as above stated, I found the District Court in session, Judge Irvin presiding, and S. Mills, Clerk, with quite a number of cases on the docket, mostly marked with the names of John Catlin, William N. Seymour and David Brigham, as attorneys, Seymour having rather the largest number of cases. This fact may account for my form¬ ing a partnership with him in the law practice, which lasted a year or more. The improvements at Madison were, at that time, confined almost entirely to that part of King street lying between the east corner of the Capitol grounds and Third Lake, and that part of Pinckney street fronting the northeast line of the Capitol grounds. W. W- Wyman and J. A. Noo¬ nan were each publishing a paper, the former an administra¬ tion paper, and of which I had the editorial charge for some time, and the latter an opposition paper, as parties then ex¬ isted. The steam saw mill, where most of the lumber was manufactured for the construction of the Capitol and other buildings, stood on the bank of the Fourth Lake, at the foot of the hill just below the residence of the late B. F. Hopkins. With the exception of the small portions I have named above, almost the entire area of what is, at this day, the beautiful city of Madison, was in its wild and native condition: and what is now the most attractive portion of the city, was then, and for some years later, almost an impassable forest, with a dense un¬ dergrowth of young trees and briars, through which I used to make my way hunting for partridges and other game, with great difficulty. I refer to the ridge or high lands on the south¬ eastern border of the Fourth Lake. But the greatest change has taken place in the character of the level stretch of land lying between the two lakes on the east side of the city. In the early settlement of the place, most of that part of the city was covered with water, especially in the spring of the year, when the lakes were full. At such times, fishermen in their boats would spear abundance of fish in its shallow waters. The first real, and at all successful attempt to redeem this flat from the water was made by Gov. Farwell, in connection with the German Baron Mohr, by means of ditching and planting trees, about 1849-50. The low land on the south side of the townT extending from the Third Lake, by the Fourth Ward school building, around to the north of the Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien depot grounds, was also for a long time covered more or less with water, and, in some portions, was impassable at all times.
" The original plat of Madison only extended half a mile from the Capitol on the west. The history of the University addition is this: The Congress of the United States had donat¬ ed to the State of Wisconsin a certain quantity of land for the establishment and endowment of a University to be located at or near the Capitol. The duty of selecting a site and commenc* ing operations devolved upon the Board of Regents elected by the Legislature in 1848, of which board I was a member. The other members were: E. Root, S. Mills, H. Barber, A. L. Collins, J. H. Rountree, J. Bannister. T. W. Sutherland and Rufus King. Adjoining the town plat on the west, was a quarter section of land which included in its boundary the ele¬ vation upon which the University buildings now stand. This quarter section we found could be purchased at a moderate ex^ pense, if I remember correctly, about twelve dollars per acre. The Regents purchased it, reserved forty acres for University purposes, and platted the remainder as an addition to the city, to be sold for the benefit of the University fund. From sales of these lots there was realized nearly or quite an amount suf¬ ficient to erect and complete the first of the buildings now on the grounds, in addition to the original cost of the land. I do not know the exact number of the population of Madison when I came, but it was quite small, as the census for that year (1840), showed the population of the whole of Dane coun¬ ty, including Madison, to be only 314. The growth of the town from the time I became a citizen, was not very rapid, for sev¬ eral years. Even in A. D. 1846, when I commenced my im¬ provements on blocks 94 and 95, on the banks of the Fourth Lake, it was the first instance in which any improvement had been made in that part of the town, and almost the first on the northwest side of the Capitol park. Even after I had com¬ pleted and was occupying my house, my friends would jokingly ask me how I liked my country life, and whether I had any dif¬ ficulty in finding my way back and forth. The brush which I grubbed out in clearing a place for my house, was made into a fence, which answered a very good purpose for some time in that capacity.
" One reason, perhaps, why the growth of Madison was slow, at first, may lie in the fact that for several years, at almost or quite every session of the Legislature, an effort was made to re¬ move the Capitol to some other place, generally to Milwaukee, and this effort upon the part of the members from that place, as well as the general hostility which its citizens entertained, or at least, were thought by the people of Madison to entertain towards Madison, tended to create an aggrieved and embittered feeling towards the former city; which I doubt not still exists to a greater or less degree, in the minds, at least, of the early settlers of Madison. Another fruitful source of trouble and perplexity at that time was the uncertainty regarding the title to the town lots. There were three plats of the town on re¬ cord*, each of them differing from the others and made by two different parties. Time and the adjudication of the courts have long since settled these questions which were once a prolific source of litigation and strife. If any one is curious to know
41 The town, for some time, had but little business to sustain it, except what it received as the Capital of the Territory, through the Legislature, the courts and the residence of the state officials ; and the affairs of government were then man¬ aged with more economy than now. The Territory was in all parts sparsely settled, and during the sessions of the Legisla¬ ture such of the more prominent settlers as were not actual members of that body, were very sure to be present, either look¬ ing after some public or private interest, or to pass the time in social enjoyment; for it is one of the pleasantest recollections of that period, that there was a heartiness and warmth of at¬ tachment and good fellowship felt and manifested without stint among those early pioneers, which has not existed since their time. It was not uncommon to have social entertain¬ ments given, at which there would be present invited guests from Green Bay, Milwaukee, Racine, Kenosha, Mineral Point, Platteville, Prairie du Chien and all the then settled parts of the State; and this, notwithstanding the almost entire want of any public conveniences for traveling either in the matter of roads or vehicles. Such an one had just been held and very largely attended only the day before the cruel fate of the la¬ mented Arndt - a very sad termination to one of the most successful and pleasant festive gatherings that the village has seen either in its earlier or later history. Among the guests was the father of Arndt. He was one of the old residents of Green Bay, and was quite advanced in years, - a gentleman of great respectability and unblemished character. He had made that long and tedious winter journey for the purpose of meeting his son, around whom the hopes and affections of his declining years centered with a very strong paternal fondness, - and not without reason, for the younger Arndt possessed in a high degree, in addition to his mental endowments, those amiable and social qualities which attached to him very warmly those who shared his friendship. The Territorial Council, of which Arndt was a member, occupied the room on the east side, or rather in the east corner, and the House of Representatives the room at the north corner of the old Capitol. It was at the close of the morning session, which had been somewhat stormy - and the debates which had been elicited on certain nomina¬ tions made to the Council by Gov. Doty, had been considerably personal, and acrimonious and irritating in their character, es¬ pecially on the part of him who was soon to leave the room a homicide. The President had experienced some difficulty in maintaining order during a portion of the debate just before the adjournment; and fearing a personal collision, as soon as he declared the session adjourned, he stepped rapidly from the desk to place himself between the irritated parties, but failed to reach them in time to avert the catastrophe - the fatal shot had been given, penetrating the heart of the unfortunate Arndt, who fell back into the arms of those who were stand¬ ing near, and expired immediately without a struggle. His father was in the opposite hall at the time, and hearing the commotion, came, with others, into the Council Chamber, little imagining the deep interest he had in what had transpired. I was present during the whole of the morning session, and near the parties at the time of the occurrence, and thus a witness of the whole tragedy ; and of all the sad recollections of that event, that which is the most vivid, is the unutterable anguish and desolation of the elder Arndt when he saw his son, so lately full of life and hope, lying on the floor, still in death. As to the character of the deed, I never had a doubt. The slayer had been the aggressor from the beginning, and had employed ir¬ ritating and insulting language in the course of the debate, and when called upon for explanation, met it on the moment against an unarmed man with the deadly shot.
" I have mentioned the store of James Morrison as the first which was opened, and the only one for some time after my ar¬ rival in Madison. It had been established for the purpose of affording supplies to the contractors and workmen on the pub¬ lic buildings. As his stock became exhausted, he neglected to replenish, and for some time we were dependent for our sup¬ plies upon a peddler's cart, which made us an occasional visit, is now a wealthy hanker in a neighboring city. I believe 1 have forgotten who started the next store. It might have been J. D. Weston, followed by the Messrs. Dea;k and others. Of course there were not any church buildings at that early day. Before I came - two churches had occasional services, a Presby¬ terian and an Episcopalian. The first preacher of the former was a Mr. Quaw, who remained hut a short time on account of ill-health, and was succeeded by Rev. E. Slih gerl and r who effected a permanent organization; in A. D. 1841, my brother, J. M. Clark, became pastor of the church, and con~ continued with it between two and three years, when he was appointed Chaplain of the post at Fort Winnebago. The pas¬ tor of the Episcopal church was the Rev. Mr. Philo, a very kind, earnest and simple-hearted man; a characteristic anec¬ dote of whom I cannot resist the impulse to repeat. During the sessions of the Legislature, there was (a common thing in the west in those days), a good deal of gambling practiced; and although severe laws had been enacted against it, yet so little attention was paid to enforcing them, that there were several places in the town where gambling was carried on in as public a manner as though it had been an ordinary, innocent amuse¬ ment; several members of the Legislature being among the most ardent of its devotees. In the winter of 1841, the la¬ dies of the town took the matter in hand, and made an earnest and energetic effort for the suppression of both gam¬ bling and drinking. Through their influence, a mass meet¬ ing was held in one of the halls of the Capitol to consider the best means of accomplishing the desired object. Everybody at¬ tended, citizens, strangers, members of the Legislature; all were there, men, women and children. All sides of the ques¬ tions being represented, the discussions which followed were considerably animated, some of the speakers finding their speech and their poise a little too difficult from the present feet of having imbibed a little too freely before going. It was said, among other things, that the laws already passed were amply sufficient to meet the case, if honestly and faithfully ad¬ ministered, and that the fault, if anywhere, was with the offi¬ cers, whose duty it was to see to the proper execution of the laws. W. N. Seymour, who was then, and for years afterwards, justice of the peace, was present, and taking the remark as a personal reflection upon his official integrity, arose and defend¬ ed himself from the charge. After he had taken his seat, Mr. Philo, or 4 Dominie 1 Philo, as he was more commonly called, arose, and addressed the chair as follows : 4 Mr. Chairman : I arise to move to make a motion. The motion which I wish to make, I hold in my hand. I will read the motion. 4 Motion; That William N. Seymouk is a good and sufficient Justice of the Peace, and I hope the motion will prevail.' The character of the motion, together with the earnestness and naivete of manner in which it was delivered, was too much for the gravity of the house to stand, and the meeting was forced to adjourn amidst a perfect tumult of cheering, without being able again to address itself to the consideration of the subjects for which it had been held; and Mr. Seymour's right to be considered 4 a good and sufficient Justice of the Peace,' was no t regarded as an open question from that time.
44 I might relate anecdotes of other early pioneers, and recall other experiences; but perhaps I ought rather to apologize for even the personal sketches I have already given. That which may interest the parties who participated in those early inci¬ dents and experiences, and who find a real pleasure in recalling them, can scarcely be supposed to awaken anything like the same degree or kind of interest in those who only know the city, as what it has since become. If the city is beautiful to-day, with its gem of a Capitol, its shaded, clean kept streets, its almost palatial residences, and its numerous tidy homes, the result of its prosperity and accumulated wealth, it was no less beautiful when the log cabin of Abel Rasdall overlooked the beautiful Monona and grassy slope on the shady woodland which bordered its clear waters. My years of absence have not diminished my love for its well remembered haunts. There is not a spot of that piece of earth which lies so sweetly between the waters of the unfolding Lakes, which is not endeared to me h}r many an incident whose recollection is still fresh as when they transpired. Nature and art stimulated by its natural beauty, have both conspired to make Madison distinguished as a most lovely city; and my earnest desire in its behalf is, that its citizens may ever be as distinguished for virtue and intelli¬ gence, and all that beautifies and ennobles human life.11
1847. In the month of February, the Wisconsin Argus was enlarged to seven columns. Mr. S. Mills retired from the firm, and the same changed to Tenney, Smith & Holt. During the Constitutional Conventions of 1846 and 1847-8, the paper was issued as a tri-weekly.
At a meeting of the Board of Trustees, held March 23, all that portion of Dane county known as the village of Madison, was organized under the name of "Madison Village School District No. 1."
An enumeration of school children, taken March 10, showed that there were 142 children between the ages of four and twenty. The amount of school money apportioned the dis¬ trict was 1232.48. The annual statement of the Board, made for the year ending October, 1847, showed that two male and one female teachers were employed. School taught by a male
On the 4th of June, the Board of Supervisors made a report of resources and expenditures to April .6, 1847: Whole amount of receipts, $3,200.48; expenditures, $2,510.82.
The Madison Express, of March 23, referring to the growth of the village, says: "From present appearance, building would be, this season, three-fold greater than in any previous year. Among the rest, is the brick academy, which is to cost about $3,000. This building, to which reference has been made as having received aid from the State, was located on lot 4, block 82, corner of Wisconsin avenue and Johnson street. In this building the preparatory department of the State Uni¬ versity was held soon after its organization. The building was demolished in May, 1873, to make room for the new City High School.
At a meeting of the Grand Lodge of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, held in June, 1847, a petition was received for a charter of a lodge to be located at Madison, to be called "Hope Lodge, No. 17." A dispensation was granted, and the lodge instituted on the 15th. The following persons were the charter members: P. G.'s Charles Holt, C. B. Chapman, J. Y. Smith, Noah Clemens and William Welch. C. B. Chap¬ man, N. G.; J. Y. Smith, V. G.; N. Clemens, Secretary, and Benjamin Holt, Treasurer. The first meeting was held in the brick building on Main street, then known as the " Argus Building." Among the early members of this lodge were D. Vandercook, Geo. M. Oakley, J. G. Knapp, Jas. Halpin.
The Convention which assembled here December 16, 1847, to form a State Constitution, having completed their work on the first of February, was, by the vote of the people, approved in April, 1848, and Wisconsin was admitted to the Union on an equal footing with the other States, on the 29th of May.
The census of the village was taken this year by E. Burdick, whole number, 1,159, the year previous it was 626. S. Mills advertised, in December, that he was building a saw mill, and wished to purchase 1,000 logs.
The Argus , of December 14, says: u One hundred Indians are encamped on the north side of Lake Mendota (Fourth Lake), three miles from this place, and have been there some weeks, and have almost annihilated the deer."
" At that time the Park was more than half covered with hazel bushes and oak grubs. The first were destroyed by mow¬ ing, and the last were dug up. The wild grass was succeeded by the present grasses, partly by sowing the seed, and partly spontaneous or self-sowing. The trees then were the merest bush, were trimmed up to about six feet, that being nearly one-half their entire height. In 1847, I contracted with Alex. McBride, at fifty cents a tree, for planting out the row of maples and elms next to the Park fence, he agreeing to war¬ rant their growth. This was done without authority of law, and before any appropriation had been made for that purpose. That legislative body could never have been induced to make such an appropriation, for the reason that there was then the greatest opposition to all appropriations for future benefit; and because there was at that time a determination on the part of many members to remove the seat of government to some other place. It was therefore with the greatest difficulty that the Legislature could be induced to make an appropriation to pay for those trees. I have often asked, what price the State would now fix upon those same trees? To these small begin¬ nings, this assuming of responsibility, I look back and see what our beautiful Park has since become - the ornament of the most handsomely located city in the Union, the brightest setting of any Capitol on the continent, if not in the world. If it he such now, when less than half finished, what will it be in a few years, after the hand of the tasteful landscape gardener shall have brought to light its innate loveliness?
u Two other acts, the responsibility of doing which I assumed, will he briefly noticed. The old Capitol was, by some strange design of the architect, planned without basement rooms, al¬ though the walls were about seven feet below the base, and had doors and windows at each end. For many years these cellars formed sleeping apartments for the loose hogs of the town, and not unfrequently their music was less enchanting than ^Eolian harps, or grand old organ tones. It struck me that this por¬ tion of the building could be better employed, and as the re¬ moval of some three feet of earth in depth was necessary, I let a contract for that purpose, at twenty cents a yard square. Into this space the dry wood was transferred, and found mak¬ ing much less noise than the hogs had made before. Soon after, that portion of the house having new windows cut on the sides, was made into rooms and offices, and was thus used until the lights were darkened by the construction of the new building."
* Hon. Leonard J. Farwell was the son of Capt. James Farwell and Re¬ becca Cady his wife, and was born at Watertown, New York, January 5, 1819. His father died in 1830 and his mother in 1824. After a short experience as clerk in a dry goods store, he became apprentice to a tin¬ smith, and followed that occupation until the age of nineteen. He first re¬ moved toLockport, Illinois, with a small stock of hardware and a few tools of his trade, and for the time and place, soon established a thriving busi¬ ness. In January, 1840, he sold out his stock and store, and removed to the then new village of Milwaukee, in the Territory of Wisconsin, and em¬ barked in business on a larger scale, and in a few years was at the head of one of the largest wholesale houses in the west. Ten years later, owing to impaired health and having secured a large fortune for those days, he with- by the beauty of the location, and foreseeing its advantages as a place of business, made an extensive purchase of real estate, comprising a portion of the village plat and of lands lying ad¬ jacent, which included the unimproved water power between lakes Monona and Mendota. To the active enterprise, the lib¬ eral polic}^ and the public spirit of this gentleman, Madison is largely indebted for her present prosperity. During the follow¬ ing winter, he commenced the improvement of the Madison water power. The fall between the lakes as taken by a number of engineers, varied from three feet ten inches to four feet eleven inches. This variation was unquestionably owing to a variation in the lakes at the several times the levels were taken, lake Monona being much the smaller, would be more affected by a rain storm than the other. Among his first works were the improvements of the water power and the erection of mills to which attention has been before given. His efforts at once infused new life into the settlement. Real estate, hitherto al¬ most without value, began to be sought for, and to improve in price. Streets were cleared of their forests, roads were laid out drew from mercantile traffic to' engage in other enterprises. In 1847, he visited Madison, and effected a large purchase of village property, includ¬ ing the unoccupied water power, and soon after made a trip to Europe and Eastern countries, returning in 1849. On his return, he began the im¬ provement of the water power, the erection of mills, the opening of streets, draining of low lands, and other measures designed to benefit the village. In 1851, he was nominated for Governor by the Whig party, and was elected ; the remainder of the state ticket was Democratic.
Gov. Farwell was married September 20, 1853, t° Miss Frances A., daughter of Gen. A. N. Corss of Madison, formerly of Watertown, New York; she died at Washington, D. C., April 15, 1868. The financial re¬ vulsion of 1857, proved very severe on the fortunes of Gov. Farwell, as he was largely interested in railroad enterprises, and their value being de¬ pressed, he was obliged to suspend and close up his business. In the spring of i863, he was appointed by President Lincoln, an assistant examiner in the Patent Office-, Washington, and three months later, was Principal Exami¬ ner of Inventions, a position he held for nearly seven years, when he re" signed to re-embarkin the'same business at Chicago; at thejatter place, he suffered by loss at the great fire in October, 1871. He has sincethat time lived at Grant City, Worth county, Mo.
to the surrounding prairies, bridges were built, the low lands drained, road-ways carried through them and lined with shade trees; and buildings and improvements of all kinds begun to rise among the trees, and dot the distant prairies. He matured a comprehensive system of advertising the advantages of the country abroad, and scores of thousands of pamphlets filled with valuable information, were spread all over the eastern states and Europe.
Perhaps no one person did more to promote the interests of Madison than Mr., since known as Gov. Farwell. No import¬ ant interest, structure, or association was inaugurated which he either did not originate or contribute to its success by his means or influence. He not only built mills, to which allusion has been made, but started the first woolen factory, and the first machine shop and foundry. He set the example of first grad¬ ing and filling streets, and building side and cross-walks, and in the projected railroad enterprises, designed to benefit Madison, he embarked heartily and liberally. In 1857, owing to the great financial difficulties of that year, he became involved like many others, and his fortunes seriously affected. The citizens of Madison will always bear cheeerful witness to the greatness of his efforts, which had for their object the promotion of her best interests.
44 The advent of the first bell in Madison marks a kind of epoch in our remembrance. It was, if our memory is not at fault, in July, 1847. The occasion which originated the pur¬ chase was a political caucus held in the April preceding, when 4 hunker ' and 4 tadpole ' did rend and divide over the large vote of seventy-two persons; all comprised, too, within the limits of the present town of Madison. Unlike the modern style of caucus, it was thought respectful and decent to wait until every person had time to attend and be heard, if he desired to be. The 4 people 1 in those days did not see themselves represented by delegates thrust in at the moment before they -could assemble. That practice is more modern. Well, at that April gathering, the first comers waited patiently two hours; and it was found on assembling that watches and clocks disa¬ greed to just that extent. To avoid another such discrepancy, the writer hereof suggested the purchase of a bell which would signal all alike on every public occasion, and that a subscrip¬ tion follow the 1 scrimmage.1 The result was an early appear¬ ance of Esq. Seymour, who attended to 1 those branches,1 with the proper paper, which was certainly very generously signed , and the Messrs. N. W. & E. B. Dean, merchants, took it upon themselves to furnish the k instrument.1
" Sometime in July aforesaid, about the hour of noon, a solitary team, which had wended its way out from Milwaukee, arrived, bringing the treasure and its hanging arrangements complete - reported at the old Argus office - and the teamster was advised and assisted by the boys, to land his load at the old (then new) Congregational church, as most likely to be the proper place for it - no arrangement having been made or thought of as to where it should be placed. It was scarcely off of the wagon before it was suspended upon its iron frame on the ground, and set to ringing.
u The effect of its first vibrations upon the community - nearty all of whom were at dinner - was in the highest degree sensational. As the loud clear notes vibrated through the adjacent forest, and across the clear spaces, it was as if an electric spark had thrilled through every household. Every one rushed to greet the new-comer, and for an hour or two took turns in keeping it at full swing. By a kind of spon¬ taneous effort, and without any one's consent, it was hauled up into the little 1 dormitory,1 with legs pointed skyward, the theory of which was a steeple; and for several days and nights it seemed as if the public would never tire of the ringing. Indeed, Esq. Seymour, who was recognized chief in charge, was, we almost suspected, several times victimized by some of the mischievous boys, after the public ear had got sore with listening, and kept on the trot at unseemly hours, to secure the bell rope, which had a propensity to swing loose.
u The sound of a bell striking upon the ear when one is away from brick and mortar, or a crowd, is always pleasant. But at that time, many had not heard the sound for years.
' These valleys and rocks never heard ' the sound before. Its deep, rich tones broke out suddenly, when none were expect¬ ing to hear them, like a great wave of music, spreading far and wide, over wood, lakes and prairies - reaching to the very few settlers in the country, some of whom came in five miles to hear it rung, or ring it for themselves. It was a sensation of the time; and though Madison has many good bells now, none have ever thrilled the community as this. Its tones are so sweet and familiar, that we yet pause to listen to it, singling it out from the others, even when all are ringing. It marks an era, and ought to be treasured by some of the churches, if it has not been, as the pioneer of its kind - as it was the first whose tones vibrated over these hills and lakes, and heralded the advent of that advancing multitude who now people the shores, and have marked the country on all sides with visible evidences of civilization and Christianity.
" A few weeks ago a notice was made in some of the papers, that a bell was wanted for an engine house, and a proposition to buy one of the church bells. W as this the old one ? I trust not."
The First Baptist Church in Madison was organized Decem¬ ber 23, 1847, composed of twenty constituent members. Rev. H. W. Read became the first pastor; he resigned in March, 1849, when he went out as pioneer minister to New Mexico. In October, 1849, Rev. John Williams was chosen pastor, but resigned the February ensuing, and in the summer of 1851, Rev. S. S. Whitman,* formerly professor in Hamilton Insti¬ tute, New York, came from Belvidere, Ill., and became pastor of the church; but his labors were of brief duration. He died
*Rev. S. S. Whitman was born at Shaftsbury, Vt., in 1803. He was educated at Hamilton Literary and Theological Institute, New York, and graduated at Hamilton College. After which he was called to the chair of Biblical Interpretation, in the first named institution. He held this po¬ sition for seven years, and, in 1836, removed to Belvidere, Ill., where he
H. A. Tenney erected his two-story frame dwelling house on Washington avenue, near Carroll street, on lot 3, block 74, and was, as he says, the first settler southwest of the Capitol square, except Henry Gullion's house, next to Grace Church. All the lots in that portion of the village were covered with trees or brush.
Daniel Baxter, in the fall of this year, laid the foundation of the brick dwelling house on the corner of Main and Carroll streets, which was regarded as one of the most elegant private residences in the village at that time. The building was com¬ pleted in 1848. This property was subsequently sold to N. W. Dean, Esq., who occupied it for a number of years, when it was taken down, and the site improved by the erection of the Park Hotel. Mr. Baxter was then engaged in merchandising on King street. His claim on the State for balance due on building the old Capitol has a State reputation, and was regu¬ larly brought before the Legislature yearly. The old gentle¬ man has since died, and his claim is still unsettled.
Until the year 1848, the growth of the village was slow, and many causes operated to retard its progress. Imme¬ diately after the location of the capital, all the lands in the vi¬ cinity were entered by speculators and non-residents, and lots and lands were held at a prospective value - much higher than they have reached at any time since. Many years, and many vicissitudes were to be passed, however, before settlers gained much foothold. It was a hamlet in the midst of a mighty waste of natural fertility, and for a long period all supplies had to be wagoned for a distance of a hundred miles on either hand. It was not, indeed, until about this date, that the ad¬ vancing settlers from east and west met midway, and com¬ menced the wonderful change which transferred the country preached ten years, as pastor of the Baptist Church. In June, 1851, he assumed the charge of the church at Madison, Wis., and continued in that office until his death, January 2, 1852. He was then in the fiftieth year of his age.
into the garden and granary it has since become. The location being at a central point between the Mississippi and Lake Michigan, the advancing army of immigrants, on either hand, found a wide, fertile and beautiful extent of country, at that time nearer market, and therefore holding out superior attrac¬ tions to the agriculturist. They did not, consequently, care to indulge the speculator's appetite for fancy prices. In the mean¬ time, the fertile valley of the Rock river had been filled with settlers, and immigration began to turn into Dane county, which possesses a soil as bountiful, and a surface as attractive as any county in the State, hut which, before it was tapped by railroads, was too far from market to render the cultivation of the soil remunerative.
The beginning of the real prosperity and growth of Madison commenced with the admission of the State into the Union in 1848. The Constitutional Convention then permanently lo¬ cated the capital here. Until this time there had been fears of its removal, and capitalists had hesitated to invest their money in the vicinity.
Since that period, its progress in wealth and population has been rapid and constant. u A great many efforts have been made to depict the beauties of Madison, but no words can con¬ vey an adequate idea of what is, indeed, indescribable. The reason of this is that every new point of observation creates a shifting panorama - that no two exhibit the same scenery. From any considerable elevation, a circuit of near thirty miles in every direction is visible. Four lakes lie embosomed like gems, shining in the midst of groves of forest trees, while the gen¬ tle swells of the prairies, dotted over by fields and farms, lend a charm to the view which words cannot depict. From the dome of the Capitol to the dome of the State University, the whole bearing and aspect of the country is so changed as scarcely to be recognized as identical. On the west, the lofty peak of the West Blue Mound, twenty-five miles away, towers up against the sky, like a grim sentinel guarding the gateway toward the setting sun, while the intermediate setting is filled in with swelling hills, majestic slopes, levels and valleys of rivers and rivulets. Madison is the center of a circle whose natural beau¬ ties compass all that is charming to the eye, grateful to the senses, pleasing to the imagination, and which, from its vari¬ ety and perfection, never grows tedious or tiresome to the spec¬ tator. The good taste of the citizens has preserved the native forest trees, so that its dwellings are embowered in green, and buried in foliage in the proper season, to -that extent that the whole city cannot he seen from any point of view. It is, in itself, unique, like its surroundings, and the transient traveler gains no conception of the place by barely passing through it.,r
A meeting of the citizens of the town was held, March 11, 1848, of which Geo. H. Slaughter was President; W. A. Wheeler, Geo. Thompson and J. K. Porter of Rock county, were Vice-Presidents, and R. L. Ream, Secretary. A resolu¬ tion was adopted, " that it is expedient to build a railroad from Madison to Janesville to intersect the Galena and Chicago Rail¬ road." In the month of April, 1848, an exciting trial took place before Judge D. Irwin of the United States District Court, the case of the United States vs. Jacob Gross for the murder of Charles Kohlman, in which Chauncey Abbott and Geo. B. Smith were counsel for the government, and A. L. Col¬ lins and Thos. W. Sutherland for the defense. The jury brought in a verdict of u not guilty."
Assessed valuation of village property, 1848, was - Real, $48,803; Personal, $12,850 - Total, $61,653; Tax, $308.26. The corporation officers for this year were: A. L. Collins, President; J. C. Fairchild, J. P. Mann, C. Abbott, Wm. Pyncheon, H. C. Parker, D. Mallo, Trustees; J. R. Brigham, Clerk; Alfred Main, Assessor, and I. W. Bird, Treasurer. Mr. Brigham served as clerk of the Board from April 1846, to June, 1851.
In pursuance of a requirement of the new State Constitution, the first State Legislature held on the summer of 1848, vested the government of the " University of Wisconsin " in a Board of Regents, to consist of a President and twelve members to be elected by the Legislature, and hold office for the term of six years. This legislature also located the University in Dane
The first meeting of the Board of Regents was held October 7, 1848, at which time it was decided to open a Preparatory Department for the reception of pupils, in February, 1849. John W. Steeling was elected Professor of Mathematics, and appointed to take charge of the Preparatory Department at the time designated. The present site was selected and the purchase consummated the following year. The tract which was pur¬ chased of A. Vandeepoel, was the N. W. 1-4 of section 23, town 7, range 9, except block 9 of the village of Madison. The price stipulated was $5 per acre, and the taxes of 1849. At the same meeting of the Board of Regents, John, H. Latheop, LL. D., was elected Chancellor, and his salary fixed at $2,000.
The Madison Express , which had been published by W. W. Wyman, was purchased October 9, 1848, b}7 David Atwood and Royal Buck, and its publication resumed under the title of 44 Wisconsin Express ," and was published until Junel, 1852, during a portion of which time, Alvin E. Bovay was associated with the publishers. During the session of the Legislature in 1852 it was issued as a daily.
Proposals were advertised to be received for the erection of the Methodist church, to be built of brick, 36 by 50 feet, on the corner of Mitfiin and Pinckney streets, to be left with Benj. Holt.
There was no celebration on the 4th of July at this place; one was held at the village of Cambridge, and many of the residents of Madison participated in it.
The annual town meeting of 1848, was held April 4. Wm. C. Wells was elected Chairman of Board of Supervisors, C. M. Rouse and N. S. Emmons, Supervisors; R. L. Ream, Town Clerk; A. Teed way, Alfeed Main and S. M. Van Beegen, Assessors; D. B. Sneeden, Treasurer; B. F. Lar¬ kin, Collector; A. E. Beooks, D. A. Baenaed and D. Laekin, Highway Commissioners; B. Holt, J. Nelson and D. H. Weight, School Commissioners; A. Bishop, Alfeed Main and
J. D. Welch, Constables; J. Y. Smith, Sealer, W. N. Seymour and Abeam Ogden, Justices of the Peace. The total amount of expenditures for the year ending April 2, was $1,941.59, and the receipts, $1,371.10. Total indebtedness, $570.40.
The firm of Shields & Sneeden, in 1848, built a brick store on Main street, facing the public square. This building was subsequently occupied by Wm. C. Wells, J. P. Mann, Don¬ aldson & Teed way, in 1850, and was by the latter firm occu¬ pied until the fall of 1864. In the spring of 1865, it was sold to McKay & Bro's, for $15,500; the lot being 33 feet front.
D. B. Sneeden built a two story residence on Carroll street corner of Dayton, which was sold afterwards to Dr. A. J. Ward, and is now owned by F. J. Lamb.
The corporation officers elected in 1849 were A. L. Collins, President; J. R. Brigham, Secretary; A. Viall, Treasurer, S. Mills, G. M. Oakley, J. T. Clark, N. S. Emmons, J. D. Ruggles, D. H. Weight, Trustees; A. Ogden, Assessor; Thos. Reynolds, Marshal.
The corporation and school tax was $4,964.41. The mer¬ chants who were assessed on the stock of goods were Tibbits & Gordon, Seymour & Varney and Lewis & Wright, each as¬ sessed at $4,500. The others were J. C. Fairchild, W. C. Wells, T. Reynolds, S. F. Honn, H. G. Bliss, Smith & Tredway, A. Boyles and Dean & Co.
In the spring of this year, Mr. Farwell commenced making permanent improvements at the outlet of Lake Mendota, and a dam was built across the outlet, and the water in the lake raised about two feet. The Yaharaor Catfish stream which connects the lake, being very circuitous, and its channel obstructed by logs and brush wood, a straight canal was cut from one lake to the other. Lake Monona has since been lowered one foot by re¬ moving obstructions, rendering the water power of much value. Lake Mendota forms a reservoir of water so extensive that the longest drought ever known in the country would not affect it materially.
During the summer, a long building was erected at the out¬ let with a saw mill on one end, and two runs of stone on the other for grist work. Tibbits & Gordon's brewery was erected the same season just below the mill. The Court House was com¬ menced on lot 2, block 68, on Main street, corner of Fairchild street, and the walls completed the next summer, and it is probably the best county building (except that of Milwaukee), in the State.
On the 30th of January, 1849, the State Historical Society was organized at Madison. A meeting of the citizens of Madi¬ son and from other parts of the state met, the evening previous, at the American Hotel, at which time it was resolved to call a general meeting at the Senate Chamber on the 30th. At this meeting, Prof. Eleazar Root was called to the chair, and Gen. Wm. R. Smith chosen Secretary. A constitution was formed and adopted, and signed by all those present, after which the Society proceeded to the election of officers. Nelson Dewey, the Governor of the State, was chosen President; I. A. Lapham, Corresponding Secretary, and Rev. Charles Lord, Re¬ cording Secretary. One Vice President was also chosen for each of the twenty-five counties then organized. The Society held annual meetings, at which able historic discourses were de¬ livered by Gen. Wm. R. Smith, Hon. Morgan L. Martin and Dr. N. L. Wood, but during the first five years of its existence it accomplished next to nothing in the way of historical col¬ lections or a library, so little, that in 1854, the library contained only fifty volumes, and all but three of these were state laws, journals and documents, and were deposited in a small book¬ case three by four feet. The Society was subsequently re-or¬ ganized, and under the energetic and untiring efforts of Hon. Lyman C. Draper, its corresponding Secretary, became very successful. Its subsequent history will be noticed hereafter.
At a special meeting of the Board of Regents . of the State University, November 21, 1849, the several chairs of instruc¬ tion were established and defined, action was taken with a view to securing a cabinet of Natural Science and a Normal Depart¬ ment instituted, in which instruction was required to be given to teachers' classes during five months in the year. At the time designated by the board at a previous meeting, Prof. J. W. Sterling opened the Preparatory School in the building owned by the Madison Academy, opposite the Presbyterian church on Wisconsin avenue.
John- Nelson, R. T. Dayis and Andrus Viall were elected Supervisors at the election in April, 1849; R. L. Ream, Town Clerk; D. H. Wright, Superintendent of Schools; Newton Emmons, Assessor; M. G. Van Bergen, Treasurer; Wm. Welch, A. Ogden and D. H. Wright, Justices of the Peace. Some business changes in the town are noticed this year. P. H. Van Bergen and Wm. Welch carried on the Madison Hotel. Tibbits & Gordon purchased the stock of D. Baxter, and Sey¬ mour & Varney were engaged in business.
An anniversary of the organization of the Dane County Bible Society was held May 29, and officers elected, viz: John Y. Smith President; J. T. Cla.rk, Vice President; Benj. Holt,. Secretary, and H. G. Bliss, Treasurer and Depositor.
The annual town meeting was held on the 3d of April, 1849, and it was voted $400 be raised for the support of schools, and $1,500 for general purposes. At a special town meeting held on May 19, this amount was changed to three mills on the dollar valuation. At the meeting in April, John Nelson was elected Chairman of Board of Supervisors, Andrus Viall and R. T. Davis, Supervisors; R. L. Ream, Clerk; Nelson Emmons, As¬ sessor; M. G. Van Bergen, Treasurer; D. H. Wright, Super¬ intendent of Schools; and A. Ogden, D. II. Wright and Wm. Welch, Justices of the Peace; A. Main, A. Rasdall and H. Carman, Constables. At the special meeting, G. P. Delaplaine, was elected Assessor, who failing to qualify, R. L. Ream, was chosen to fill the vacancy. The resources of the town for the year ending April 2, 1850, were $3,343.41, and the expenditures $2,831.65; balance on hand, $511.76.
Hyer's Reminiscences of Covalle, Pinneo, Ubeldeen, Tom Jackson, Judges Frazer and Iryin - Knapp's Notice of Irvin - A Leaf of Western History - University Property and Improvements - Elections, 1850-3 - Gov. Farwell's Improvements - Schools, 1850-3 - Newspapers - Madison Mutual Insurance Company - Fourth of July - Presbyterian Church Organization and History - Capitol House - Public Improvements, 1852-4 - Bap¬ tist Church Erected - R. Catholic Church - Madison Institute - Opening of Railroad to Milwaukee - Bruen's Block - Lake Side Water Cure - Statistics.
The articles that follow were written by the late Hon. Geo. Hyer and published in the Madison Union some years since. They are republished, as they furnish an interesting series of sketches of frontier men who were at Madison in early days:
" Old Coyalle, the fisherman, hunter, trapper, etc., was the only white man found on the present site of Madison when it was first visited by Col. A. A. Bird, in the spring of 1837. Coyalle was a Canadian of French extraction, and a fair type of the early voyageurs and adventurers who penetrated the wilds of the northwest in search of furs, and whose natural affinities made them at home among the wild men of the forest. Born and bred among the half-civilized border-men, he pressed back into the wilderness as the tide of civilization rolled on its western course, occupying the ground so reluctantly relin¬ quished by the red men and their ready associates, the trappers and traders, whose occupation followed in the train of the receding red men; and with the fading forests dis¬ appeared entirely from the regions which but a few years before were known to the world only as the hunting grounds from which came the rich furs so universally admired in civilized life. Covalle was the descendant of a Hudson Bay trapper, [and followed the movements of his family, and for many years thereafter was in the employ of a fur company as a trapper, spending years in the wilds north of the St. Mary's river, returning to the trading establishments only at stated seasons to bring in his furs and obtain supplies. Nothing pleased him more than the opportunity of recounting his adventures and 4 hair breadth escapes 1 among the men of the wilderness in which he had spent so much of his early life. Tired of this wild life, he left the employ of the Hudson Bay Company, and commenced operations for himself, trapping along the streams emptying into Green Bay, falling back as civilization advanced - giving up his cabin to villages, and his trapping resorts to lumbermen. Following up the Fox river, he kept in advance of the settlements, gathering in the little game that lingered along the line, until he was forced to abandon the vicinity of the Fox and Wisconsin rivers, and find hunting grounds away from the business routes of white men. Taking his Indian woman, and his small family of half-breed children, with his ever present companion 'Alex., the fisher boy,' he came across the country to the chain of lakes, then in the undisturbed possession of the Indians, and built a cabin on the ground now occupied by Mr. Rodermuxd as a brewery, at the outlet of Lake Mendota. Here he was found by the men who came to lay the foundation of the capital of a new state, and here he remained until tired of his surroundings, and long¬ ing for the quiet of the wilderness, he, with his little family, left to join his old associates who had been transferred to the wilds west of the Mississippi. Covalle, though illiterate, was a companionable, good natured man, and interesting in the long stories he used to tell of the happy life he led in the country before it was taken possession of by the white man. He tried hard to accustom himself to the usages of civilized life, but it was unnatural to him, and the attempt only made more apparent the force of early habits. Learning that white men married, he brought his Indian woman before a justice of the peace that his own marriage might be solemnized in the presence of his children, a proceeding which was important to them only as it conformed to the customs of white men. He would send to Dr. Lull, the village physician, to treat com¬ plaints that would be thought nothing of in his former solitary life, simply because white men employed the Dr., and many a joke came back to the settlement, of Covalle's efforts to bring his half-breed family under allopathic treat¬ ment, and ludicrous enough were the attempts of the family to adapt some article of clothing, the gift of white people, to their native costume of buckskin and blanket. The 'first families' of Madison will, no doubt, remember the curiosity with which Madam Coyalle and her children looked in upon them through the windows of their houses, refusing to enter the dwellings, and with what interest they would gather at the doors to witness the proceedings of the meetings on Sunday; but these things are now past, and we must dismiss the subject, conscious of having said but little that will do more than bring back the almost forgotten name of Coyalle."
" None but the ' oldest inhabitant1 of Madison will remem¬ ber Plnaleo, and little was known of him even by them. He was a vagabond naturally, and a long life of dissipation had confirmed him in all his vagabond notions and habits. Phytveo came to Madison among the first, and commenced work as a shingle maker, or 4 shingle weaver,1 as he styled himself. He built a hut in the woods, near the outlet of Lake Mendota, and when sober, used to retire to it and weave shingles, for which the new settlement offered a ready market. He was a queer looking object; a tall, round shouldered, large nosed, grey eyed chap, never wearing any clothing, in pleasant or foul weather, save a pair of coarse breeches and a red shirt. He claimed to be a Yankee, but had coasted so long up and down western rivers, and had imbibed so much poor whisky, that he had in appear¬ ance and manner nothing to indicate a ' down east 1 origin. His cabin was a mere shelter - open in front, and furnished with no article of comfort or convenience save one or two common cooking utensils, and the tools most necessary to his business in shingle making. Though orderly and quiet enough when sober, he was the opposite to it when drunk; and when Pinneo took it into his head to be agreeable, no place or com- pany was free from intrusion. He was not a very agreeable caller - liis long, gaunt form, bare head and feet, and disgust¬ ingly dirty appearance were anything but agreeable, still they had to be endured, as the possessor of these qualities was none other than Mr. Piuheo, who had a laugh and a joke for every one, and who was ever ready to do the bidding of those choos¬ ing to command his services. When sober,, which was only when every artifice and cunning had failed to provide the means of getting drunk, he would retire to his cabin, work steadily and quietly until a customer came for shingles, for which terms of payment were positive - cash down. When once in possession of money, there was no more work in Prsrneo, who would, by a more direct route reach town in time to get glorious long before the purchaser made his appearance with the shingles. After he had endured a week's drunk, his ved face and bare breast shone in the sun with a peculiar bril¬ liancy, and he was a sight as seen in the morning after a night's lodging under a tree, or under some outhouse shelter, as he shook himself and started for his morning potation at the nearest drinking house. He had not worn shoes for years, and in his drunken frolics he had acquired the habit of kicking out grubs and roots with his bare toes. This he was often induced to do for a drink, and many was the grub kicked out of King street by Pinheo, long before Nicholson pavement or the of¬ fice of Street Commissioner was thought of. His feet looked, in shape and color, like mud turtles, and his toes resembled so many little turtle heads half drawn in, so bruised and battered were they by hard usage. Pustkeo, when drunk, would occa¬ sionally have serious thoughts, and sometimes expressed seri¬ ous doubts as to the propriety of his course of life. His boon companion was one Butterfield, of whom we will say more by and by. When the first minister visited Madison, and called the good people together on Sunday, Peoteo was among the first present. He listened attentively to the opening ser¬ vices, and when the minister began to speak of a better life than men were leading in the new country, Pinheo very de¬ liberately rose from his seat and electrified the small audience by saying, 'That's so, Mr. Philo, that's so. Butterfield's got to be saved; and you just hold on till I bring him in.T Upon which he stalked out of the room; but, failing to find his chum, neglected himself to return.
" Pinheo had but little to commend him, even to a passing notice; still he was a type of many vagabond frontier men, who, whatever their origin, accomplished nothing useful in life. They generally lived and died wretchedly, as did this Pihheo, who lost his life in a miner's cabin, his clothes taking fire while he was on one of his drunken frolics."
" The other day," says Mr. Hyer, " we were shown through the sale-room of Messrs. Bird & Ledwith's establishment, and looked upon the rows of beautiful carriages, elegantly lined and so richly ornamented, all bespeaking a wide departure from the olden but joyous time when we went a-riding along the by-ways and over the unbroken grounds that led us whereever we chose to go, before the streets of Madison were walled with brick, in old Ubeldeen's one-horse cart - the first pleas¬ ure carriage brought to the capital city. That was long before Bird & Ledwith thought of building carriages - long before Uorh or Kehtzler thought of providing the splendid 'turn¬ outs ' that come from their stables, and roll so elegantly along the Nicholsoh pavement - but not long enough to beget forget¬ fulness in the memory of those who, jvith merry laugh and in youthful glee, used to go jolting along in the one-horse 'gig,' as we called the old Frenchman's cart. Wonder if our then young boy and girl companions have forgotten the time when we used to go a berrying, and when it was only necessary to 'say the word' to ensure a cartload of as merry romps as ever perplexed the hearts of boys for a berrying expedition, or a frolic among the groves that bordered our beautiful lakes. That was a funny old cart, and would not answer for now-adays; but we were not so refined and particular then. There were no eyes to please but our own, and 'who cared?' Ubeldeeh, the pnvied proprietor of the 'gig,' was a Frenchman, and this vehicle came with him from the Canadas. It was of the olden style, such as may be seen in the French towns - a two-wheeled, cart-shaped affair - having a light box, was with¬ out springs, and open behind for the entree and exit of passen¬ gers. It was drawn by a coarse-limbed Normandy horse, rigged in a heavy block harness - the whole establishment be¬ ing in proportion and appearance, not beautiful but substantial, symmetrical and pleasing only in its unity. When in order for a ride, it was the pride of its owner, who would bring the 4 gig 1 around, back it up to the door, and announce its readi¬ ness for the young ladies, who, taking seats on robes placed on the bottom of the vehicle, the driver sitting on the front hoard, when away it would go, jolting and thumping, with its lively, joyous, frolicsome load. It was fun to sefc the old cart rattle and thump over the stones, or across the pole bridge that afforded the only crossing to the Catfish, or over logs and through brush, as the party jogged on, more in pursuit of fun than berries.
as now. Can it he that those romping, bright-eyed girls that were then so full of fun, so ready to join in such excursions, and so ingenious in expedients, turning inconveniences into pleasant¬ ries, ready to make the best of everything - careless of what the world might say or think, are now quieted into mature ma¬ trons, perhaps sober thoughtful grand dames, putting away their happy, mirthful, tell-tale faces, that they may assume reserve and dignity, not felt, but more becoming their changed fortune and social conditions? We cannot look upon our pleasant companions of "early times " without regretting, that with years should come so marked a change from the days when the wild prairies and forests were not more free, than the light¬ hearted people who enjoyed in common lot the comforts and pleasures, the cares and privations incident to a new country ; for, though the elegant carriage may roll noiselessly along busy streets, and people may pride themselves upon the show and parade of a splendid 44 turn-out," we doubt whether there is the same real enjoyment that was found by the young folks who so long ago went a-riding in old UbeldeejCs one-horse gig. Heigh-ho, well that was almost thirty years ago.
"The earliest inhabitant will also remember Tom Jacksok. He was of Scottish origin, a man of intelligence, but peculiar in his manner, amounting to eccentricity. "Jack," as he was commonly called, was a ship sawyer by trade, and came to Mad¬ ison to assist in ripping out with a whip-saw much of the lum¬ ber used in the building of the old Capitol. Standing in the saw-pit, the old fellow would laborjiard and patiently during the long hours of the day, looking forward to the pleasures of the mug and pipe at night. He was a man of " infinite mirth," good natured but awfully profane in the expression of his views, seldom, if ever uttering a sentence without mixing in a fearful number of hard words. In person, he was a short, thick-set, ruddy looking fellow, grey eyes, and his head, with a very nar¬ row belt of yellow hair about its base, shiningly bald. Jack seldom wore any thing in the shape of a head covering, and when he did, it was but the sorry remains of a plaid cap that he brought from Edenboro' town with him ; so accustomed had he been to going without one, that on returning from his work, he would frequently tuck his cap under his arm, and march off bare-headed; but on being told he was not wearing it, he would place his hand on his bald head, swear good naturedly at his carelssness, and trudge back to the saw-pit for the lost cap, never dreaming that he had it under his arm. We remember seeing Jack very much confused at a fire. The house where he was boarding, a small log house, standing opposite the present Meredith House, caught fire in the night, causing no little con¬ fusion among the boarders. Jack was soon on his feet, as crazy as a bed-bug - could find nothing, and relieved himself by many a hard oath, directed at persons and things about him. In his search for his pants, he caught hold of a sailor-jacket be¬ longing to one of his room mates, and imagining the garment to be his breeches, thrust his feet through the sleeves, and finding them too short for his legs, uttered a fearful judgment upon the man who had cut off the legs of his pantaloons ! Many an anecdote will be remembered of old Jack, by those who long ago listened to his story and song. Tom has been dead many years, and the hope is a fervent one that he has gone to a better place than he often wished his own soul.
u During the territorial existence of Wisconsin, it was divid¬ ed into three judicial circuits, presided over by appointees from the states. Some of these appointees were broken-down pol¬ iticians, or men who failing to gain prominence in their pro¬ fession, where better known, were willing to be exiled to the new territories, where " dispensing the law " was distinguished by no very marked display of ability, integrity or legal information, and were generally less noted for their legal ability than for their knowledge and appreciation of u old rye." A tolerably cor¬ rect idea of some of the western judges at that time, may he formed from an extra- judicial remark of Judge F., while on the bench at Milwaukee. The Judge had imbibed freely of his fav¬ orite rye, and though barely able to retain his seat, he, in his drunken humor, insisted on hearing and determining cases, whether he understood them or not. Making a decision which Col. C., an attorney in the pending case, did not approve of, he called the attention of the u Court " to a certain provision of law in the statutes of Michigan, then governing the courts of Wis¬ consin. The boozy Judge, in a rather undignified manner, re¬ marked, u To - with the courts of Michigan - I am the law
" But we are getting out of our circuit. The district of which Madison was the centre, was presided over by Judge Irvin, a worthy gentlemen, but peculiar in many respects. He was a fair judge of law, but a better judge of horses and dogs - if he could trace law principles back to Blackstone, he could more readily, and with greater certainty and satisfaction, trace every " thorough-bred " back to some famous stock of Virginia, and he knew the degree of every blooded dog he met with. He was a confirmed u old bach," made his own bed, sewed on his own buttons, and knew every thing in the line of domestic duties, from the boiling of an egg, to the whitening of his high-crowned straw hat, which in course of time, became quite noted through¬ out his district. He was a good talker, but an indifferent list¬ ener - he disliked being talked to, but nothing suited him better than to gossip of himself, his horse and his dog, and indeed it was difficult to tell from his conversation which of the three he thought most of. Few of the early settlers have forgot¬ ten "Pedro" the long-legged, slender-bodied sorrel horse, rode by the Judge. He was in the Judge's eye, an ex¬ traordinary animal, and possessed all the points distinguish¬ ing the long line of thorough-bred ancestry, through which Pedro's lineage could be traced by his master. No suitor thought of getting a hearing in court, until he had first given the judge a hearing as to the ancestry and peculiar qualities of his favorite animal, and so well known had this become, that upon " his Honor's " ascending the bench one morning, he found Pedro's bridle suspended over the chair, sig¬ nificantly described. Noah P - , a well-known joker of that day, used to say that the bench was full only when composed of Whiton's boots, Pedro's bridle and the dog York and Judge I.; but that was speaking lightly of " the court." The dog York, if not of the court, was its constant attendant, and woe to the suitor, witness or juryman that showed the dog disrespect. In those days, court room floors were covered with saw-dust in¬ stead of matting, and occasionally some evil-disposed attendant would cover York with saw-dust, in which condition he would ascend the platform to his master, who would store up wrath until he had an opportunity of gratifying it, in imposing a fine or showing his contempt for the wight who dusted York. On one occasion, York was the direct cause of an adjournment of court. Tom H., of "the Point," and Berry H., of Madison, had arranged for a horse race, which being an unusual occur¬ rence in these parts, the bar, tbe jury and others in attendance were extremely desirous of adjourning court to witness the sport, but the Judge persistently refused on account of the horses not being " thorough-breds," and not having an honorable lineage that he knew of; but the fun was not to be lost simply to gratify the whim of " the court," and an expedient was re¬ sorted to, to force an adjournment. While Judge I. was at dinner, the dog York was enticed into the "National," and put in charge of the landlord, with an injunction not to set the dog free, until a crowd about the door of the Capitol indicated an adjournment of the court. Upon resuming his seat, the Judge cast an anxious look about the room for York, but there was no dog present. Sitting unquietly while the clerk called up the business of the session, the Judge took advantage of the first opportunity that offered, to call the Sheriff to him, of whom he enquired if he had seen "York." The dog had not been seen since the adjournment. "Very strange, sir, very strange," said the Judge. The case proceeded, but the Judge grew more uneasy with each passing moment, till it became quite evident to those present, that an opportunity would be afforded of witnessing the race. Again calling the Sheriff, he requested him to go to the outer doors and whistle for the mis¬ sing dog. He did so, and soon word came back that York was nowhere to be found. Frank D. was arguing the case then before the court, and among the most anxious to witness the race. The Judge turned to him, and said, " Mr. D., if you have no objection, and it is agreeable to the other parties, this case will go over till to-morrow morning." " Not the least objec¬ tion, your Honor," said Mr. D., and the case went over, under an order from the Judge to adjourn the court until 10 o'clock A. M. to-morrow. As soon as the crowd left the room, York was set loose, and was very soon at the Judge's side, to the mu¬ tual gratification of master and dog. All went to the race ex¬ cept the Judge. On another occasion there was quite a com¬ motion in the lobby of the court room, which the Judge no¬ ticed, and called the Sheriff to inquire the cause of it. " There's a bear on the "Point," said the official. "Mr. Sheriff, adjourn the court," said the Judge, and in a few minutes " his Honor" was astride Pedro, making for the Point, followed by York, and a noisy crowd of court visitors. Judge I. was extremely neat in personal mattery, and nothing save disrespect to his dog, or inattention to his horse, seemed to displease him more than the dirty, filthy, neglectful personal appearance of many of the wit¬ nesses and jurymen then attending court. It was difficult ob¬ taining a full panel in the new county, and to do it at all, the trappers and vagabonds still lingering on the verge of civiliza¬ tion were frequently summoned to seats in the jury box.
Old Pelkie, the fisherman, was once summoned in order tO' make out the number, but on making his appearance to takn the oath, the Judge challenged him with - "You dirty French¬ man, go home and wash yourself, and put on some clean clothes,, and then come back and take the oath, sir." The court ad¬ journed to give Pelkte time to wash and properly clothe him¬ self.
" Judge Irvin was, notwithstanding his peculiarities, a most, worthy man, whose precept and example, judges of more mod¬ ern date, would do well to follow. His integrity was unques¬ tioned. Pedro and York occupied his thoughts in " term time and vacation," giving no opportunity for reflections that might in their course run counter to justice in the disposal of suits at law. It may be, that justice would be more equal and exact, now-a-days, had every judge his Pedro and York.
" When Wisconsin became a state, Judge Irvin's occupation was gone. He went to Texas, and the last we heard of him, he was enjoying his horse, dog and gun on his own plantation. What became of Pedro and York, this deponent saith not."
"Judge Irwin, who lost a match with a rich lady in St. Louis, because, in his extreme neatness and parsimony, he would persist in mending his own stockings and sewing on his own buttons, has been drawn to life by Mr. Hyer. His affec¬ tion for his horse Pedro and his dog York, surpassed his love of woman. No picture of the Judge would have been com¬ plete without these, his constant companions. But Wisconsin became a State, he lost his office, and the pay stopped. He went to Texas (he had never wintered in Wisconsin, unless he was sick so as to be unable to get away,) and took up his residence on the Rio Guadeloupe. I am told that he took part in the late rebellion, and some of the Wisconsin boys, in obe¬ dience to the order of Gen. Washburn, attempted to take him as a prisoner of war, but failed, as he got wind of the hunters and fled. His old friends would have been glad to have seen him here, and heard him again talk of the full blooded, high- bred Pedro, and the pure pointer York; or upon visiting him at Camp Randall, to have seen him still mending his stockings, and sewing on his buttons, so that with his usual neatness, he might have borne up, under the fact of his durance, for having fought against a Government which had sustained and even fed him so long.
u When he left, his penuriousness got the better of his love, and though his love for York especially, had at times resulted (as it is said, but for the truth of which I do not vouch,) in judgment against many a poor fellow who slighted the dog, or gave him a sly kick, as happened to the Sage of Muckwanago; or one who had even hinted a doubt about the correctness of his always scenting a game bird, as Berry Haney did when York came to a 'firm point' on a snowbird. Though the Judge at the time most pointedly rebuked Mr. Haney, with the positive assurance that snow birds make most excellent pot pies, and were therefore game birds, a fact which York well knew. Though that was rather a novel definition of game bird, yet by it York was then defended, and remained so until the time came for the judgment of the court to reach the offender, then the dog was fully appeased."
The following sketch was taken from the Philadelphia American Sentinel , 1846. We have no knowledge of the writer, who, from the account, must have been in this section in 1835:
"A Leaf of Western History. - About eleven years ago, a young gentleman left this city, to take a tour through the Western country. His object at first was to go no further than Fort Wayne in the state of Indiana. He journeyed that far in company with the late Commissioner of the Patent Office, Mr. Ellsworth, who had been deputed by the govern¬ ment of the United States to make a treaty with an Indian tribe, then in the vicinity of the Fort. Mr. Ellsworth after remaining there a short time returned to Washington, while the young man, not then more than eighteen years old, pro¬ ceeded to the state of Missouri, where he met his cousin, about his own age, residing at, or near Hannibal. These 3roung men crossed the Mississippi, reaching Rock river, and ascending to the first of the celebrated Four Lakes in Wisconsin, where they engaged the only inhabitant residing there, to carry them in a canoe up the river of the Four Lakes, to the north side of the Fourth Lake, at which place there resided a solitary Indian . In their course up the river, to the Fourth Lake, they saw but one white man, and no Indian, except the one already referred to. The land in the neighborhood had then just come into the possession of the government, and the Indians had of course left that beautiful region of country.
u They stopped also at the point between the Third and Fourth lakes, where the beautiful town of Madison, the seat of government of the territory of Wisconsin now stands.
" At that time, the only town in the western part of Wis¬ consin, was Mineral Point. Janesville, now one of the finest towns in the interior of the territory, had not then been thought of, nor had Beloit, a large and flourishing town in Rock county. No legislature had then met in Wisconsin, for the territory had just been separated from Michigan. No white man lived near the site of Madison, to think of building a town then.
" Two or three years after that period, it was fixed upon as the seat of government; and a fine spacious building erected for the reception of the legislature.
" The two young gentlemen, who traversed this section of country together, and who looked over it, while the imprint of the Indian was still upon the shores of the lakes, returned East, the one to reside in the city of Baltimore - from whom most of the particulars of this article have been obtained, while the other delighted with this captivating section of the West, as soon as he reached the maturity of manhood, returned and set¬ tled in Madison, and is now the presiding officer under the char¬ ter of incorporation, granted to the town of Madison at the last session of the Wisconsin Legislature.*
"We have published the foregoing remarks mainly with the view of introducing the extract below, showing how rapidly the western towns, as it were, burst into existence, under the tide of emigration flowing in that direction. The Milwaukee Courier gives the following interesting account of the seat of government of Wisconsin, but a few years ago the hunting ground of the Indian:
Provenance
Text from A History of Madison, the Capital of Wisconsin : Including the Four Lake Country : to July, 1874, with an Appendix of Notes on Dane County and Its Towns, published 1874, in the public domain in the United States and digitised by the Internet Archive. The settlements listed against this township are matched by point-in-polygon test of each Geographic Names Information System coordinate against the Census Bureau's county subdivision boundary, not by name.